UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: abarro81 on April 11, 2022, 07:12:46 pm
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I suspect this may be 'people on insta saying overblown things because they haven't fully thought it through' rather than a thorough comparison of routes. Presumably the hardest, by trad grades, might have been something like Dr Dolittle or equilibrium? It's like my pet hate when people say "best route at the crag" or "best of its grade in the country" when they do something good that they thought was brilliant but haven't actually done most of the other contenders :chair:
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Its the wild west out there with these insta-claims! :o
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It's like my pet hate when people say "best route at the crag" or "best of its grade in the country" when they do something good that they thought was brilliant but haven't actually done most of the other contenders :chair:
Plus you need a cooling off period of a few days before even starting to make an objective assessment, everything feels brilliant in the post coital cool down when you are still buzzing like a fridge..
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I suspect this may be 'people on insta saying overblown things because they haven't fully thought it through' rather than a thorough comparison of routes. Presumably the hardest, by trad grades, might have been something like Dr Dolittle or equilibrium? It's like my pet hate when people say "best route at the crag" or "best of its grade in the country" when they do something good that they thought was brilliant but haven't actually done most of the other contenders :chair:
You miserable git! What's wrong with a bit of completely spur of the moment over the top raving about a route you've just done! I've lost count of the number of times I've declared something to be the best route I've ever done. Easy to confuse a really good climbing experience with a really good climb I guess.
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I have zero objection to 'the best route I've ever done"! My objection is to objectively stupid statements like "undoubtedly the best route at the crag" or 'surely the best gradeX in the country" when they've not done most of the best routes to compare.. or other similarly dumb statements
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There’s only one route that’s definitively, indisputably the best route of its grade in the UK and that’s the Ashes 7c+ (that’s in part because most 7c+ are shit by dint of being nearly as hard as 8a but not actually achieving that coveted grade!)
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To me, the Ashes was good but a bit underwhelming compares to the hype. A ramble, an awkward bit, a massive rest, and then some nice moves that are now easier than they used to be (a lump fell out of a hold - it's now a jug whereas it used to be a crap pinch - a once purely "dogging" bolt can now be used in comfort). The final nervy bit is it's distinguishing and memorable feature. The link from Sticky Wicket is contrived but is possibly a more balanced route (but still suffers from the massive rest). In terms of actual climbing rather than crag-talk value, I found Dreamtime, Man With a Gun, Mighty Fine Ass (a "deep cut" but really sustained and good), and Divine Brown (easy / massively over graded but such good moves) better experiences.
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The Ashes is brilliant, but L'obsession is arguably just as good.
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There’s only one route that’s definitively, indisputably the best route of its grade in the UK and that’s the Ashes 7c+ (that’s in part because most 7c+ are shit by dint of being nearly as hard as 8a but not actually achieving that coveted grade!)
You done all the good ones nationally then? The Silk Purse, The Prow, Fated Path...?
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Met an American girl at the Spartacus sector in Kalymnos who confidently stated that "Daniboy" is the best 8a in the world. I must have looked quite confused when I replied that that was a pretty strong claim as I don't know of anyone who has climbed more than a few thousand 8as, even in France or Spain. She quickly changed to "the most repeated 8a in the world". I finally remember that hyperbole is covered by poetic licence and just nodded.
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If climbers can no longer babble nonsensically about what, in their opinion, is the best move or the best route or the best line or the best crag, then I want out.
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If climbers can no longer babble nonsensically about what, in their opinion, is the best move or the best route or the best line or the best crag, then I want out.
This. Lighten up you grumpy fuckers!
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Cleo's Edge is the best font 5+ ever no I will not be taking any questions
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There’s only one route that’s definitively, indisputably the best route of its grade in the UK and that’s the Ashes 7c+ (that’s in part because most 7c+ are shit by dint of being nearly as hard as 8a but not actually achieving that coveted grade!)
You done all the good ones nationally then? The Silk Purse, The Prow, Fated Path...?
Fated path probably isnt even the best 7c+ At tunnel walls!
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This debate is gonna rage on forever!
No mention of cave left? Or Defcon 3 ( :worms: ) ? :P
No mention of anything south of Yorkshire either…
nowt good in Wales? (Bad bad boy (if it’s classed as 7c+!))
Just to be clear I’m not saying I don’t want this to rage on forever, but we will never get an actual winner will we?
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Cleo's Edge is the best font 5+ ever no I will not be taking any questions
No chance. The best Font 5+ in the world is, of course, in Font.
https://bleau.info/petit/7954.html
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If climbers can no longer babble nonsensically about what, in their opinion, is the best move or the best route or the best line or the best crag, then I want out.
They clearly can't read :lol:
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The Ashes is brilliant, but L'obsession is arguably just as good.
No it isn't :worms:
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There’s only one route that’s definitively, indisputably the best route of its grade in the UK and that’s the Ashes 7c+ (that’s in part because most 7c+ are shit by dint of being nearly as hard as 8a but not actually achieving that coveted grade!)
You done all the good ones nationally then? The Silk Purse, The Prow, Fated Path...?
Thankfully this has been split from its parent topic so I don't need to pollute Significant Repeats thread to defend my light-hearted, throw away comment from accusations of not knowing enough about the topic. Obviously, I have not done all the 7c+'s nationally because, as stated it's a shit grade that no one bothers with.
I could well be wrong (I could be but I'm not!) but if I am it won't be because you can climb a wandering 8a at the Tor in three mediocre pitches if you are perverse enough. Nor is an eliminate, on a buttress small enough to be obscured by trees, the best 7c+ in the UK. Don't get me wrong, the rock on Silk Purse is great but it looks for difficulty on a narrow buttress, besides, having to do the Marlene crack could be disqualifying by itself. Fated Path is a good shout, I've only done one route on there and the climbing did not match the position so I'm going to stick to my guns on this. Until I get to the Diamond. Mind you, Forever Laughing looks good. Then there's that thing in the slate quarries....
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This debate is gonna rage on forever!
No mention of cave left? Or Defcon 3 ( :worms: ) ? :P
No mention of anything south of Yorkshire either…
nowt good in Wales? (Bad bad boy (if it’s classed as 7c+!))
Just to be clear I’m not saying I don’t want this to rage on forever, but we will never get an actual winner will we?
Sounds like i can strike Central Pillar at Castell y Gwynt off the to do list then.
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Thankfully this has been split from its parent topic so I don't need to pollute Significant Repeats thread to defend my light-hearted, throw away comment from accusations of not knowing enough about the topic. Obviously, I have not done all the 7c+'s nationally because, as stated it's a shit grade that no one bothers with.
I could well be wrong (I could be but I'm not!) but if I am it won't be because you can climb a wandering 8a at the Tor in three mediocre pitches if you are perverse enough. Nor is an eliminate, on a buttress small enough to be obscured by trees, the best 7c+ in the UK. Don't get me wrong, the rock on Silk Purse is great but it looks for difficulty on a narrow buttress, besides, having to do the Marlene crack could be disqualifying by itself. Fated Path is a good shout, I've only done one route on there and the climbing did not match the position so I'm going to stick to my guns on this. Until I get to the Diamond. Mind you, Forever Laughing looks good. Then there's that thing in the slate quarries....
I think Andy is referring to The Prow at Goat Crag, Gruinard Bay, rather than the one at Raven Tor.
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I just reeled off some Scottish ones because I thought they were the most likely to be ignored.
Sorry, it was fairly unnecessary.
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7c+ ....it's a shit grade that no one bothers with.
But 5.13 is the coolest grade ever!
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Thankfully this has been split from its parent topic so I don't need to pollute Significant Repeats thread to defend my light-hearted, throw away comment from accusations of not knowing enough about the topic. Obviously, I have not done all the 7c+'s nationally because, as stated it's a shit grade that no one bothers with.
I could well be wrong (I could be but I'm not!) but if I am it won't be because you can climb a wandering 8a at the Tor in three mediocre pitches if you are perverse enough. Nor is an eliminate, on a buttress small enough to be obscured by trees, the best 7c+ in the UK. Don't get me wrong, the rock on Silk Purse is great but it looks for difficulty on a narrow buttress, besides, having to do the Marlene crack could be disqualifying by itself. Fated Path is a good shout, I've only done one route on there and the climbing did not match the position so I'm going to stick to my guns on this. Until I get to the Diamond. Mind you, Forever Laughing looks good. Then there's that thing in the slate quarries....
I think Andy is referring to The Prow at Goat Crag, Gruinard Bay, rather than the one at Raven Tor.
I take the Prow at Goat is pretty good? I'm looking for a project...
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I've never tried it but my impression is that it's widely accepted as being very good. The Lefthand finish is also supposed to be brilliant at 7c.
I guess you'll have climbed some of the other routes there? Mactalla is up there among the better 7bs in the country (note that I'm trying not to use too much hyperbole!)
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7c+ ....it's a shit grade that no one bothers with.
But 5.13 is the coolest grade ever!
5.13b is the coolest grade ever ;)
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I very much doubt the best anything is on Yorkshire Limestone. Unless it's the best "something on Yorkshire Limestone".
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Sounds like i can strike Central Pillar at Castell y Gwynt off the to do list then.
8a in the new guide.
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I've never tried it but my impression is that it's widely accepted as being very good. The Lefthand finish is also supposed to be brilliant at 7c.
I guess you'll have climbed some of the other routes there? Mactalla is up there among the better 7bs in the country (note that I'm trying not to use too much hyperbole!)
Somehow, no, never climbed there! Glasgow based, but got more spare time this year. Well keen now.
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If you get the chance it's well worth a visit. Plenty of good routes and a really nice location. Best sport crag in the NW if you're climbing in the 7s. Probably.
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I very much doubt the best anything is on Yorkshire Limestone. Unless it's the best "something on Yorkshire Limestone".
Best at being Yorkshire-centric bunch of climbers on the internet.
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I take the Prow at Goat is pretty good? I'm looking for a project...
I'd like a pop on some version of the Prow sometime too. It can be a bit of a brackeny sweat trap there in summer, but if you're looking for a partner give me a shout.