UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Aussiegav on September 06, 2020, 10:50:01 pm
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Hoping someone can help.
I get to the lip of the roof (pinch with R hand) every time. Left hand is in the massive jug at back of the roof. But I cannot match the lip with left hand.
Tried;
1. Left heel hook in the jug
2. Left toe down on polished edge out left.
3. Put right foot out right on big holds in the break of Bizarre.
All options end up the same way. Right hand on the pinch and can’t bring left out to the lip or finishing jugs a bit higher up.
Any help appreciated
Cheers
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If I remember correctly I used a bathang for the finish on this one
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If I remember correctly I used a bathang for the finish on this one
:o
Ok, I’ll try an summon some courage to try that. I assume you toe hooked the final jugs.
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Pretty sure thats how I ended up doing it. My friend used a toe near BR, but i think he mostly over powered it whereas this way didnt feel physically too bad, just a bit committing
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I think the common way is to put a toe on by your hand.
https://youtu.be/V8TXZu4aCJM
From about 2.10 in this video.
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I think the common way is to put a toe on by your hand.
From about 2.10 in this video.
nice collection of problems in that film
The line i am trying is to the left. from that massive jug.
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Hoping someone can help.
I get to the lip of the roof (pinch with R hand) every time. Left hand is in the massive jug at back of the roof. But I cannot match the lip with left hand.
Tried;
1. Left heel hook in the jug
2. Left toe down on polished edge out left.
3. Put right foot out right on big holds in the break of Bizarre.
All options end up the same way. Right hand on the pinch and can’t bring left out to the lip or finishing jugs a bit higher up.
Any help appreciated
Cheers
I do it with the left heel in the jug. I find the trick is to wedge my heel on the spiky bit of the jug and cam my toes up into the roof. Pretty sure my toes are lower than my heel if it's seated right.