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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: thekettle on August 31, 2018, 07:33:19 am

Title: Zantom Phone, Chapel Head Scar
Post by: thekettle on August 31, 2018, 07:33:19 am

Any beta for getting between the 3rd and 4th bolts on this?
It's one of the few routes not seeping so had a play on it yesterday. I'm fine to up the two decent flat holds (bigger one on the L) by the 3rd bolt. From here I'm not sure how you get to up the juggy RH sidepull pocket without traversing into Phantom Zone next door.
There's a mono I can get with either hand, then a couple of really poor R facing pinchy layaways maybe?..

Title: Re: Zantom Phone, Chapel Head Scar
Post by: Andy F on August 31, 2018, 08:27:43 am

I belayed Aaron on it way back when and that mono is essential. Can't remember which hand though  :shrug:

Title: Re: Zantom Phone, Chapel Head Scar
Post by: robertostallioni on August 31, 2018, 10:35:08 am

i dont think I used the mono. Remember crimping hard tho. Maybe a rockever out left to an intermediate? Then take a sidepull? Havent been for years so its a bit hazy!

Title: Re: Zantom Phone, Chapel Head Scar
Post by: TM on September 12, 2018, 10:02:19 am

From the good flat hold on the left; LH up to small sharp gaston, press out right for a rubbishy pinchy sidepull, LF on obvious polished edge, bump LH to small sidepull flake (the hard bit!), sort feet and get LF up onto the big hold then throw to the jug

Title: Re: Zantom Phone, Chapel Head Scar
Post by: thekettle on September 12, 2018, 05:17:06 pm

Ace! Thanks TM, will retry it soon  :)