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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: keefe on October 06, 2013, 08:04:35 am

Title: Conehead
Post by: keefe on October 06, 2013, 08:04:35 am

Hi,

does anybody have any good beta for Conehead?
In paticular, do you wander a bit left at the start of the difficulties on some crozzle-crimps? - and on the move up to the good undercut flake - do you undercut the thin razor flake with your right (the one that feels like it will break off in your fingers or break your your fingers off)?

Thanks

Keefe

Title: Re: Conehead
Post by: Adam Lincoln on October 06, 2013, 01:09:34 pm

Quote from: keefe on October 06, 2013, 08:04:35 am

Hi,

does anybody have any good beta for Conehead?
In paticular, do you wander a bit left at the start of the difficulties on some crozzle-crimps? - and on the move up to the good undercut flake - do you undercut the thin razor flake with your right (the one that feels like it will break off in your fingers or break your your fingers off)?

Thanks

Keefe

Yes you go quite right on crozzles and then back right. Feels a bit of away from the clip. Sounds about right for flake move. Bit tricky that bit. Arran will show you the beta, i can't remember off hand.

Title: Re: Conehead
Post by: keefe on October 06, 2013, 07:58:08 pm

Thanks Adam.
I was hoping I'd missed something, as opposed to I'm just not pulling hard enough.

Keefe

Title: Re: Conehead
Post by: Serpico on October 07, 2013, 09:42:12 am

What he said. A high right foot makes that undercut move Ok. If conditions are cool you can pinch the holds over the overlap, especially the RH V crimp, which is a bit harder but much more pleasant.