UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: wintermute on March 26, 2013, 09:25:03 am
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Going to be vaguely in the vicinity of forest rock in Leicestershire at the weekend. Does anyone have any idea what sort of state it will be in? Boulder britain describes is as 'dank in the winter'......
Ta.
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I was down about a week ago, and it was soaked. Having said that, it can be fine in the winter as it doesn't seem to seep for that long after rain, the main problem is that almost the entire crag gets wet from run off. If it gets a day or two of sun it might be ok, but the forecast isn't that optimistic.
If you're desperate, Cracked Up (7b+/c thing right in the back of the cave, SS in crack finish matched on the volume in the roof) might well be dry, only one of the holds seeps and that is fingerlocky enough that it doesn't matter that much if it's damp.
Also, it's 10 minutes drive off the M1 and the crag is 30s from the road, so if you're driving past junction 23 anyway it's not much of a detour even if it is wet!
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Just had a thought - Nunckley is about 5 minutes drive from Forest Rock, and might be more likely to be dry? I've only checked it out once, and it was raining (it was a bit wet) but it looked pretty compact and unlikely to seep too much. If anyone knows different please correct me.
It's granite rather than slate btw, but looks similarly like board climbing.
Rainstorm! New boulder problem in Mountsorrel (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAMuJoxLUMc#)
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Cheers for that. Whilst i will be close to there relative to where i am now, i won't be close enough to risk it if the odds are it will be bobbins!
Plastic it is.
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I've been by today and its pretty good, i'm also working in the village friday so should be able to give you a update then,there is some good problems on the corner at the entrance which dry quick and dont take any seepage. Nunckley would also be a good bet or if you like quarried highballs check out Morley quarry also only 5 mins from J23. Good to see this place getting more traffic it is quality.
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oh also plenty of videos about on t web,search leicestershire bouldering and it brings up a fair bit
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Forest Rock totally bone dry.
Couple of access issues: Nunckley is not recommended at all (I got threatened with a large lump of granite by the groundsman the other day), and the guy who owns the house just above Forest Rock isn't too happy about all the power screaming as the place is starting to get more popular. He was also complaining about people stripping ivy, using pickaxes and drilling bolts. As far as I'm aware no one has drilled bolts in a long time, and I've not seen any drytooling damage but apparently the council are talking about fencing the place off so I think it's worth trying to keep a low profile at this crag!
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I went on my own yesterday for a session and aside from a few odd looks from the locals I didnt receive any comments.
I think the message is to keep noise down if you are going.
Yes...that means that if you just stuck the crux on your 6 month project then you cant shout about it, and neither can your spotters. If you dont like that aspect then I think you need to go and climb somewhere else.
I really dont see a compromise being reached on this point - the guys house is literally next to the rock, so any noise you make will go straight into his house.
As far as ivy stripping, pickaxes or bolt drilling I dont know why anyone would be doing that...
I'd probably blame the local scroats, who leave the place covered with tin cans and smelling like a tramp pissed himself in the corner.
However, if he believes it to be climbers then that is who he is going to complain about.
(I failed to do my project, but the conditions were really nice)
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Read this about access. Obviously keep noise down and don't piss in view of the house or in the cave.
The geezer in the shop nearest to the cave is very excited that people are visiting here and it is so popular, so go in and buy some drinks/ice cream from him. It is a public open space so access is for all.
In 1976 Charnwood Borough Council purchased the quarry under a compulsory purchase order because the place was a mess and no owner could be found. They listed the use of the land as `Public Open Space' on the compulsory purchase order. Several years ago the old school which was adjacent to the low (useless) part of the quarry was sold and turned into houses. The top of the low crag which provides an easy way down, or a scramble up for the local kids, and has done for perhaps a hundred years, overlooks the bedrooms and backyards of these houses. Just for fun some of these young people started peeing dawn into the backyards and running away through the churchyard. "The owner wrote to the Parish Council requesting that climbing on the rocks be banned. The Parish Council referred the request to Charnwood Borough Council who decided at full council to put up a sign banning rock climbing. The Borough Council (Conservative) cynically decided to erect a sign banning climbing, even when it knew it had no authority to ban climbing. To actually ban climbing they would need a Model Bye-law from the Home Office and would be unlikely to get it as the place is public open space and not much use for anything but emptying your dog (mind your feet) and climbing on. The B.M.C. have contested the issue, and the Chief Constable is aware of it. So remember when you climb here you have a perfect legal right to do so, irrespective of what the sign (it says "Rock Climbing is Prohibited"), the local people or a passing uninformed uniformed policeman might say. It is one of the few crags in this guide to which you have legal access. Please don't vandalise the sign, it only gives climbers a bad name. Don't sit on the War Memorial to eat your sandwiches, the Parish Council don't like that either. Avoid noise and bad language"
Taken from-http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/ForestrockI.htm
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Is there any form of topo for here, or is it a case of piecing things together from videos online?
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http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/forest-rock.html (http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php/forest-rock.html) :)
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Cheers for that.
Is the magician a sit start to sorcerers direct?
And am i right in thinking enchantress starts at the ramp of sorceress?
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Climbers will need to use either carrot plates which can be purchased from ‘Arapiles Mountain Shop’ Natimuk or hang wires over the heads and push the nut up against the bolt to hold it on.
:???:
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Is the magician a sit start to sorcerers direct?
Yeah, it's the sit start to Sorcerer Direct.
And am i right in thinking enchantress starts at the ramp of sorceress?
Enchantress starts a little left of the sorceress ramp, right hand on a flat undercut left hand on a good bit of arete.
Im heading there today, If I remember I'll take some photos and put together a little topo.
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Oh yeah, forgot to say - that topo is full of mistakes on grades and whatnot, make up your own and have fun.
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Doh, hadn't seen that topo on Leicestershire climbs. Here's my effort, not much different really.
http://imgur.com/a/bm0Rj (http://imgur.com/a/bm0Rj)
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Looks good Remus but a couple of mistakes. Grade of Magician is V9/10 and the line you have put in as Anti Hero is actually Own Narrative V9.
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Brilliant, cheers remus.
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I think Dawid changed the start of Antihero, to make it a little harder - from his scorecard:
Sit with both hands on the left ramp in a right-hand side hold. Pull up on poor footholds and reach with right to the large flake gaston on the right, match and finish up on the volume in the roof.
Currently, extended starting three moves left from an obvious massive undercutting ramp. Much more complete problem, probably now in the grade [7B+]
He's also done a new one recently
Notes to Self 8A
Sit start about a metre left of own narrative from undercut for right and large side pull for left. Climb directly up via some small holds to a large undercut flake and finish with both hands on the large volume next to it.
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How quick does forrest Rock dry, according to the new problems thread it was wet on thursday. Is there any chance it might be dry on sat/sun.
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the stuff around heathen chemistry dries fast, as does enchantress and cracked up. Everything else is a bit slower I think.
Btw, in that topo the line for Dark Magic should go up the finger crack in the top left of the picture instead of traversing left. it only joins Magician at the last hold....
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Anyone been recently? Thinking of heading over tomorrow so would appreciate a heads up if it's soaked!
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Repeat of last post?
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Hit n miss in the back as of today 2pm, slowly drying out but could take a day or so given the lack of wind.from magician it's dry and it's mostly condensation so a towel would help. Hope that makes sense and helps.
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Anyone know if its dry or likely to be at the weekend.
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Did you go? Anyone else got any knoewledge?
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No.
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At a guess I'd say it would be good.
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Basically all dry today
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if anyone is here or passing by, can you tell me what condition it's in.
cheers.
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Dropped in last night. Most stuff left of and including Enchantress looked fairly dry, quite a few wet holds on the stuff to the right.
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Day trip to Leicestershire on Sunday.
What's the best bet for some dry, family-friendly climbing? Easy routes and/or bouldering and somewhere for a nice picnic.
Cheers
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Dunno but not Forest Rock!
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I hear that!
Thought the Leicestershire conditions reports were best kept to one thread
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Day trip to Leicestershire on Sunday.
What's the best bet for some dry, family-friendly climbing? Easy routes and/or bouldering and somewhere for a nice picnic.
Cheers
Your best bet for this is probably Beacon Hill. Not great for bouldering but some nice solos and the possibility for easy routes (short!). Good for kids as theirs a lot of open space on the top of the hill and maybe even an ice cream van (although not sure at this time of year). Can be very windy up there.
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sounds good, cheers
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The stable pit crag at Bradgate park. Family friendly crag, good for picnics and lots if deer. Only bouldering though so if is routes your after Markfield quarry or the Outwoods are good for easy routes for kids.
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Dropped by Forest Rock for a recce today after easter family stroll in Bradgate Park. Entire interior of cave soaking wet with condensation.
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Called by today, dried up nicely hardly any damp about.
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Has anyone been here recently? thinking of heading tomorrow and was wondering what sort of nick it's in?
cheers
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Thinking of heading over tomorrow to hide from the rain. Likely to be stuff climbable or is it more likely to be soaked? Thanks
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Wouldn't be my first choice...
Not local any more so can't give you proper conditions beta, but if it's raining anything left of sorceress is pretty unlikely to be dry and stuff in the cave (cracked up, anti-hero etc.) can be a bit goppy after periods of rain. Definitely a roll of the dice.
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Been a few times this week and it was mint conditions. But it's rained heavily today and last night so will most likely have seaped. Pretty devastated, was meant to be there tomorrow evening for a night session.
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:( Cheers guys. Can someone make it stop raining now please?
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Any body searching dry Rock then Leicestershire isn't looking bad.
Forest rock accessible and mostly dry.
Grimleys rock accessible and bone dry
Beacon hill looked nice and in the sun as I drove past.
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Any one know what conditions are like?
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Pretty much everything was dry today. There was the occasional damp hold but nothing you can't dry with a rag.
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Anyone been here recently? Know what sort of condition its in??
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I reckon it will be fine. You planning on going tomorrow?
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Thanks, ye planning on heading there this afternoon if you're keen, be there for about 2
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Johnny was there Wed, said it was fine
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There last night, Sorceress is a bit wet, few bits on Own Narrative are wet too but all in all it didn't seem too bad.
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ON wet, really? How was the rail on Squishy squashy/antihero?
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Nearly everything is dry. Only hold on Anti-hero that is wet is a massive sidepull at head height that is seeping but the hold is so big I doubt you'd go near the wet bit (assuming I'm looking at the right line).
Sent from my HTC Desire C using Tapatalk
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Longshot,
Anyone know the state of this place?
Cheers
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This is from last week, not sure how the latest downpour will have changed things:
Sorceress is wet, undercut on Own Narrative is a bit damp but otherwise climbable, Anti-Hero is dry for the short version but one of the crimps is wet for the long, Cracked Up is dry. Outside of the cave is unlikely to be dry as it rained this morning.
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The stuff at the entrance is dry. Enchantress has a couple of damp holds but still climbable. Everything further in is wet.
Thought everything would be drier.
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That has deteriorated a lot since yesterday! Only wet hold was the rail on antihero that I have never seen dry. Couple other bits were mildly moist but would have been fine with a little chalk.
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Totally gopping at the back today. Seems to have condensed overnight.
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Update, cave just about dry again.. Anti Hero and enchantress both got done earlier today.please be aware the guy who lives near by has complained recently about noise. Please try to keep noise low especially in the evening.
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The Entrance to Enchantress were dry yesterday but everything else was soaked.
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Any chance of things being dry this evening?
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Hit or miss. Might be mint, might have condensed with the heat... I'd check but my car has died.
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Everything was dry today other than Anti Hero, which was possibly wetter than normal, go figure.
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Anyone know how Forest has done in the rain??
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I called by at the wkend and it was pretty bad in the back.
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Thanks Clintos
FWIW its dreadful - from magician inwards completely soaked - heathen chem dryish but you can't turn the lip..
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Anyone know if it is still wet?
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Great condition today - just the antihero wet streak; everything else ok
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Have never been to FR, is it likely to be in decent fettle on Sunday? Forecast looks dry Sunday but possible heavy shower or two n Sat.
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I think it should be fine.
It's been similar weather for the past couple of weeks and everything except Antihero and Cracked Up has been dry when I've been there.
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Thanks sdm, was exactly as you said. First time I've been, good venue!
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Any recent updates? Planning on visiting a fair bit in the next few days as i will be close
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Have been three times in the last three weeks. First time it was pretty much all dry, second two times the cave bit on the right (Enchantress and rightward) was condensed on arrival (mid morning). First time it dried out with some help from a rag enough to do Own Narrative by about 2-3pm, the second time it was improving through the day but was still mostly wet on the right by late aft. I'd have thought with current humidity it would be fairly condensed on the right. That said, stuff left of Enchantress should be dry whatever, though does catch the sun between late morning and late aft. Got round this on Heathen Chemistry by hanging a t-shirt over the crucial holds
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Cheers Bonjoy, sounds worth a punt either way, keen to haul myself up heathen chemistry, classy line!
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Quality problem! That will deffo be dry. Bring a good toe hooking boot. Kneepad useful too
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Ive tried it briefly a couple of times before, never worked out a good sequence for the top section, any clues? That where the kneepad is useful?
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For top move I used a right leg kneebar (knee to the right of your hand in the groove on undercutty bit, foot on arete smear) as soon as I got top section of groove and used this to work hands up groove easily. Then drop it out and get a left kneebar high in the groove with foot on highest possible smear on left wall of groove. Bump right foot up to aforementioned arete smear (helps to take RH out of groove and press off wall to do this). Match top of groove and reach left to crimp on slab. Easy after that. Some folk on vids use the obvious foothold out on the arete, but this seemed a red herring to me, only useful for easy bit at the top.
Also used a right leg kneebar on sharp down pointing fin to do move one static.
Used two kneepads. Had I only had one I’d have used it on left leg for the top kneebar.
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Good stuff, will try it out later and report back, thanks for the in-depth beta!!!
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Just stumbled across this, presume this is the kneebar move at the top you were talking about?
http://vimeo.com/64522319
(last problem in video)
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Yeah, looks like the same kneebar position
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I am in the vicinity for the next few days and hoping to get here for a couple of evening sessions. Hopefully something will be dry? Is it suitable for a night session or will I piss off the neighbours? (I will be alone and not into power screaming!). Where can I find the most upto date info/topo?
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Something will almost certainly be dry. The stuff at the entrance dries quickly after rain. Sorceress and a couple of other lines seep a bit and the stuff further in to the cave (especially anti hero) condenses if the temperature spikes. There is nearly always something dry though.
For topos, use Leicestershireclimbs.co.uk, Leicester climbs.f9.co.uk and UKC.
There are also videos of some additional problems on Mike Adams and Clint Maskells vimeos.
Not sure lamp sessions are a great idea, the neighbours were complaining of noise recently. A lamp in the cave shouldn't be visible from any houses though so maybe nobody would know you were there.
Windmill Hill and Cademan might be OK for lamp sessions, they aren't near any houses.
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I agree, lamp sessions would be bad idea here.
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Cheers for the info, very helpful. Used to climbing in places that are much more remote in Devon... Will go here at the start of the evening and then head on when it gets dark.
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Just stumbled across this, presume this is the kneebar move at the top you were talking about?
http://vimeo.com/64522319
(last problem in video)
I'm pretty sure I showed you the kneebar? Its worth noting that some kneetards just cant get this particular kneebar to work - even if they've got a rep for kneebarring stuff.
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anyone got an update on conditions pr hazard a guess? im working is leister for the next 2 weeks
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Totally condensed today.
Cracked up was climbable, everything else was soaked.
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Anyone know how it is there at the moment? Heading south and east looks like the only way to avoid the rain tomorrow...
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After all the rain it might have seeped a lot, but after a day or so of dry weather it sometimes dries out a bit so could be worth a chance
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In case anyone is planning on going in the next few days: Cracked Up dry, Anti-hero dryable, everything else is soaked.
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Anyone know if Forest Rock has survived the downfalls this week or would it be a wasted journey to go there tomorrow?
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Very likely a wasted journey... Was soaked at the beginning of the week and probably still is now.
Also there is now a (draft) guide online. Not finished yet and there's a fair few errors to be corrected, but it's something - https://cademanbouldering.com/forestrock/
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Cheers. Indoors it is.
Guide's looking good. Should help fill in the few gaps where I wasn't too sure on the line.
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Entrance to Magician is dry, Enchantress and Cracked Up are climbable. Everything else is wet. Own Narrative looks like it may dry out later.
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If that is a climber who has been shitting at the crag this week and leaving piles of toilet paper less than 5 metres from somebody's property, you should know better. :chair:
Please don't ruin access for the rest of us.
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How was “notes to self”?
Hopefully it’s not a climber :slap:
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Most of the holds on Notes to Self were wet but starting to dry by the time I left. There was then a short but very heavy downpour as I left that might have made things worse again.
My guess is that it would probably be wet tomorrow but might be worth a look on Tuesday.
I hope it wasn't a climber too but I don't see who else would spend enough time there to need to go twice.
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Local kids go there to get away from their likely posh parents to smoke and get drunk.
Probably them, wouldn't Suprise me.
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Local kids go there to get away from their likely posh parents to smoke and get drunk.
Probably them, wouldn't Suprise me.
I spent quite alot of my youth going to quiet places to smoke and get drunk - and I never remember having a shit whilst out - or taking bog roll with me! Sample n=1 etc...
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For anyone in need, there are public toilets if you walk back into the village for 3 min, might be worth flagging this in the guide if not in already
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Local kids go there to get away from their likely posh parents to smoke and get drunk.
Probably them, wouldn't Suprise me.
I've been to too many crags where climbers are the ones doing the shitting. I know we all want to think 'it's not us' and wish it away in someone else but often, it's climbers.
There's a reason for the Black Diamond cleanups and having personally spent a Saturday or two picking up human excrement and toilet paper, I know as a group we need to take some responsibility.
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Anyone got any knowledge on whether much will be dry here tomorrow (Saturday)? Never been so don't know score!
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Thinking of going to Forest Rock this weekend. Anyone been lately and know about conditions? I've never been before, so not too bothered if the back of the cave is damp but other stuff dry. Thanks!
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Went on Wednesday and the front was all dry (likely still is) but the cave was suffering from seepage in quite a few places. Enchantress 7C was dry though. May be popping by today though, will update if I do...
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Brilliant - thanks Orrin!
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I'm hoping to go tomorrow to do heathen chemistry if you fancy going together?
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Cheers Haydn but it's gonna be Sunday and with the whole family (so you're best going Saturday to avoid rampaging children :lol:)
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All stuff at the front is fine. Heathen Chemistry is a bit green on the top out but with a brush stick and/or larger balls it'd be fine. Only about V3 the top out anyway.
Sorceress - damp patches, but almost all holds are dry. Perfectly climbable.
Lucid interval/one Clear Moment - a few damp holds, but mostly dry/dryable.
Limit Breaker - starting holds, slightly damp but drying. Crux hold half wet. Likely fine in a day or 2
Notes to self - dry
Own Narrative - dampish start holds and sidepull flake. But mostly fine and climbable/dryable.
Antihero - wet. As usual. With enough towels, fans and chalk it can be fine though...
Black art - couple damp patches, but should be mostly okay.
Cracked up - dry
Conjurer - mostly dry
I reckon within a day or 2 of consistent weather most the damp climbs asides from Antihero will be perfectly fine.
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Any idea what condition this is in today?
Came to Cademan for a quick session but it's fairly wet/damp.
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From a friend last night: "drying but too wet for tomorrow I think". Don't know details
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Thanks for that.
We found a couple of dry things at Cademan.
If we swing by Forest Rock will update
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Anyone know how it's looking atm, for Monday afternoon?
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Think it's pretty good from the Leicestershire group on FB. I'm at the football tomorrow eve or would join you.
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Important update on Forest Rock, please take a read and consider sharing to anyone you know who may visit...
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=2927450847351197&id=108132692616374&sfnsn=scwspmo&extid=tsl5uF1DowKtAhYk
I've also updated the UKC info on the crag just so everyone can understand the situation -
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/forest_rock-1171
To put it super simply and not drag it out, the old guy who lives on the right gets very aggressive especially with climbers. We want anyone who has an incident with him to keep a note on the Facebook Post of what happened and when so we have some sort of public record.
In almost all situations he is unreasonable, threatening, rude and straight up lies to get what he wants.
Basically just check the Facebook Post and keep informed if you do ever visit.
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Cheers Orrin.
To be honest I know it's your local but I'd been thinking FR is probably high on the list of places not to visit atm. Kind of ticks lots of boxes in terms of it being as close as you can get to local population, very popular, impossible to social distance if there's more than a couple of you, etc.
Obviously that's all relaxing gradually now from a legal perspective but no wonder people are still twitchy. Probably best to stay away for a bit.
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Anyone know or care to guess how Forest Rock conditions are / will be tomorrow (Weds 15th) AM?
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Anyone know or care to guess how Forest Rock conditions are / will be tomorrow (Weds 15th) AM?
It was pretty dry on Sunday, but has rained a bit since then. Might have some dry bits, especially at the front if it isn't raining. But I suspect suspect good amount of seepage deeper in the cave. As a rule of thumb it's better and often drier in the afternoon though.
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Nice one, thank you!
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For anyone at Forest Rock, please pass on a "gentle reminder" to other climbers there that if they need to go: use the public toilet not the trees! It's a 1 minute walk :wall:
It was a disgrace yesterday, and very visible to anyone from the grass. So stupid given the access situation. I'm pretty certain the local youth aren't to blame for this one.
If it's still there next week, I'll take a trowel and a bin bag.
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Anyone been recently and able to confirm seepage levels?
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Anyone know how Forest Rock is in this heat? Dry? Or a condensed mess? Thanks
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Hi All, does anyone know anything about the hold breaking on Lucid Interval (or nearby) and whether this is still an issue? Thanks.
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Hi All, does anyone know anything about the hold breaking on Lucid Interval (or nearby) and whether this is still an issue? Thanks.
Yeah it got broke a week or so ago. I'd leave it be for now as the rock seems a bit loose. A friend has collected the broke. Hold and will try to fix it hopefully! But it won't be an easy one I'm afraid.
I'll update the ukc page once it's all good.
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Hi all, anyone know how forest rock is bearing up at the moment? Also adams family boulder in cademan? Planning on coming up tomorrow. Thanks in advance