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Flashing 8a at 18 - Ross Kirkland Interview (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/05/flashing-8a-at-18-ross-kirkland.html)
17 May 2011, 11:13 am
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BtH8hgZ1VYw/Tcvf-r0TcSI/AAAAAAAALeE/2Wr9WqyBJPc/s400/IMG01472-20110426-1859.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross on Zona 0 (8b) at Siurana, Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]The Scottish youngster, Ross Kirkland joined us on our 10 week Spanish Stone trip and managed to impress me more than any other climber on the trip. At age 18 he climbed his first 8b with Zona 0 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90677) at Siurana and flashed El Segre (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=156369) 8a at Tres Ponts within the first few weeks of the trip. Ross' modesty and logical approach to his climbing is both impressive and inspiring. He is a special talent for Scotland in my view and has lots more to give to climbing...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oeEU-OI0ybQ/TcvY1yQQN5I/AAAAAAAAK8o/2b4HLPQVtTY/s320/IMG00907-20110315-1321.jpg)
MM: Hi Ross, What is your climbing background?
RK: Ive been climbing for 10 years and I started at the age of 8 at Alian Rock in Edinburgh.
I have also TRAD climbed since I was age 11 up to E5 ( a route called Strapadictomy (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10880) at Froggat Edge). I mainly sport climb and redpointed to 8a at Disblia in Spain this year.
Ive competition climbed since I was 9 via the Brycks then onto the YCS and was a member of the British Youth Team for 1 year.
MM: What did flashing an 8a mean to you?
RK: It was an important step in my climbing career and I felt brilliant after doing it!
MM: What was the process that you went through to prepare for the attempted flash?
RK: I trained for a number of years and the mental process I went through was that I just decided I liked the look of the route and just wanted to do it (preferably a flash) but I figured I would give it my all.
MM: What happened during your flash ascent?
RK: I flashed it...that happened!:-) I nearly fell off the crux at 10m up. After that, the route was just about trying to deal with the pump developed at the crux. The route was 55m long and it was reasonably straight forward through the overhanging wall. However, went it went back vertical it was much more technical climbing.
Grabbing the chain, I felt a real sense of achievement of managing to flash an 8a which was so long.
MM: What advice would you give to a young aspiring climber wanting to flash or on sight at there limit?
RK: Train hard, find the correct 8a and don't over psyche yourself. then they should man up and just do it! ;-)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0NZRxFAroW0/TcvZf_usRTI/AAAAAAAAK_s/he821SqRj5U/s320/IMG00956-20110317-1819.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross exacting his finger strength on some crimpy filth![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-79MJR0Hj_kg/TcvcatVC2VI/AAAAAAAALNQ/ZZ6FC54pCSQ/s320/IMG01177-20110401-1638.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross taking his rest day in a tree![/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uyz2muPZEnA/TcvfEO0C1sI/AAAAAAAALZI/XI58SUsFa-A/s320/IMG01385-20110419-1330.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sZgEfl66fbY/TcvgSToRpXI/AAAAAAAALfk/WJRAtCHaR3k/s320/IMG01498-20110429-1550.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RyZAwspJl58/TcvhT7bAzbI/AAAAAAAALkc/Gw-zUyi64WU/s320/IMG01581-20110508-1311.jpg)
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NuTeqF3VXYo/TcvhcCUO2bI/AAAAAAAALlI/hbQ_1HaTo1g/s320/IMG01592-20110508-1736.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Marsh Mallow Barbecue![/td][/tr]
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(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ltg08_Or0To/TcvhDsJg8fI/AAAAAAAALjM/BdzVkagWptA/s320/IMG01559-20110506-1719.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zuoAboYLNo0/Tcvf-W3nktI/AAAAAAAALeI/78lumVtA5As/s320/IMG01471-20110426-1859.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx21VIYBP4s/TcvgICc1rBI/AAAAAAAALe8/jw-jtsTvNdA/s320/IMG01483-20110428-1436.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx21VIYBP4s/TcvgICc1rBI/AAAAAAAALe8/jw-jtsTvNdA/s1600/IMG01483-20110428-1436.jpg)
Ross was kindly supported by the MC of S (http://www.mcofs.org.uk/climbing.asp) on his trip
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-7705772435786405330?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Únete a nuestro único doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 al mes (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/05/unete-nuestro-unico-doble-reach-del.html)
22 May 2011, 8:56 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JLeNQGj2zxw/TcveMj_z6tI/AAAAAAAALVA/nNNb0q8Otd8/s400/IMG01317-20110409-1700.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JLeNQGj2zxw/TcveMj_z6tI/AAAAAAAALVA/nNNb0q8Otd8/s1600/IMG01317-20110409-1700.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana Coaching[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Únete a nuestro doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 por mes para el término de su plan de formación: por lo general de 4 meses.
Nos especializamos en un programa de entrenamiento con nuestro Metodologíaúnica de doble factor y han tenido muchos resultados excepcionales hasta la fecha:
- K Gibson: 7b + a 8 en 15 semanas
- A Gordon: 6b + a 7 en 6 semanas
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wprfv6OC1vU/Tcvf7zGBDxI/AAAAAAAALd0/1a45zc2VU2M/s400/IMG01467-20110426-1613.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wprfv6OC1vU/Tcvf7zGBDxI/AAAAAAAALd0/1a45zc2VU2M/s1600/IMG01467-20110426-1613.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NNQDERS3SZQ/Tcva349iP7I/AAAAAAAALGc/uaMx78luCFA/s400/IMG01067-20110322-1737.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NNQDERS3SZQ/Tcva349iP7I/AAAAAAAALGc/uaMx78luCFA/s1600/IMG01067-20110322-1737.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Montserrat[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L70Rh1Q4Chg/TcvcoqfOuGI/AAAAAAAALOM/CJOCRvUSadc/s400/IMG01192-20110401-1821.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-L70Rh1Q4Chg/TcvcoqfOuGI/AAAAAAAALOM/CJOCRvUSadc/s1600/IMG01192-20110401-1821.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Terradets[/td][/tr]
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Por favor, comuníquese con Mark McGowan en markmcgowan01@gmail.com para preguntar acerca de su programa dede formación en línea . Mark también está disponible de 1 a 1 sesiones de entrenamiento en el área de Barcelona escalada(200 km).
View Larger Map (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=Barcelona,+Spain&aq=0&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=14.432157,39.506836&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Barcelona,+Province+of+Barcelona,+Catalonia,+Spain&ll=41.574361,1.900635&spn=2.876522,4.669189&z=7)
ReAch de doble factor de Programa de Capacitación en línea
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTYKmBLMhzU/Tcrvoj8VxmI/AAAAAAAAK04/L0E92KcwyLk/s400/241168_10150288444730760_749550759_9533405_2734381_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eTYKmBLMhzU/Tcrvoj8VxmI/AAAAAAAAK04/L0E92KcwyLk/s1600/241168_10150288444730760_749550759_9533405_2734381_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]
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Ingles:
Join our 'Reach' Dual Factor Online Training Program for 25euros per month for the term of your training plan: usually 4 months.
We specialize in a training program using our unique Dual Factor methodolgy and have had many exceptional results to date:
K Gibson : 7b+ to 8a in 15 weeks
A Gordon: 6b+ to 7a in 6 weeks
Please contact Mark McGowan at markmcgowan01@gmail.com to inquire about your online training program. Mark will is also available for 1 to 1 coaching sessions within the Barcelona climbing area (200km).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-3766796032197334723?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/05/interes-esta-solicitando-reach-escalada.html)
23 May 2011, 7:20 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a88UPqs_U-Q/TaM7sKeDWtI/AAAAAAAAKwk/qBPV6iVSQAc/s320/272785470.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a88UPqs_U-Q/TaM7sKeDWtI/AAAAAAAAKwk/qBPV6iVSQAc/s1600/272785470.jpg)
Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.
Buscamos experimentados entrenadores de escalada que se basan en la región deCataluña.
Reach es una selección única de los entrenadores originario de Escocia, ahoratambién operan en Cataluña.
Si está interesado, por favor markmcgowan01@gmail.com contacto con tu CV ydatos de su escalada y experiencia como entrenador.
www.reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com
www.reachclimbingcoach.com
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlMa1zrQAXQ/TWo_a7Jp9wI/AAAAAAAAKaQ/RS1rU7un39c/s320/IMG00711-20110218-1045.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jlMa1zrQAXQ/TWo_a7Jp9wI/AAAAAAAAKaQ/RS1rU7un39c/s1600/IMG00711-20110218-1045.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2510716068367976201?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Sport Climbing: Fall Training or Risk, Value & Commitment? (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/05/sport-climbing-fall-training-or-risk.html)
30 May 2011, 6:57 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D5RQ95MwPjU/TcvfkQ35HMI/AAAAAAAALcA/_jd_VByCfAY/s320/IMG01438-20110424-1724.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D5RQ95MwPjU/TcvfkQ35HMI/AAAAAAAALcA/_jd_VByCfAY/s1600/IMG01438-20110424-1724.jpg)
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVjzfdbFoAo/Tcvfp4_yoLI/AAAAAAAALcg/1O7qt3GpyUY/s320/IMG01447-20110424-1733.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bVjzfdbFoAo/Tcvfp4_yoLI/AAAAAAAALcg/1O7qt3GpyUY/s1600/IMG01447-20110424-1733.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IJLl9rZ6BS4/Tcvfq9Ni2YI/AAAAAAAALco/ZVSvSEGlCGI/s320/IMG01448-20110424-1734.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IJLl9rZ6BS4/Tcvfq9Ni2YI/AAAAAAAALco/ZVSvSEGlCGI/s1600/IMG01448-20110424-1734.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y_ZpwuljuNk/Tcvfs_fGmkI/AAAAAAAALcs/X7qr30peVDs/s320/IMG01449-20110424-1736.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y_ZpwuljuNk/Tcvfs_fGmkI/AAAAAAAALcs/X7qr30peVDs/s1600/IMG01449-20110424-1736.jpg)
A lot of coaching focuses on this as it is obviously a big part of climbing because one falls when pushing to the limit.
However, I would suggest that the standard practice of throwing oneself off the local indoor climbing wall on a regular basis, is only a very small part of truly dealing with the fear of falling. I don't think one can eradicate it completely, and that would be destructive as one taps into that adrenaline anyway for that little bit extra. Fear can be used to drive more effort and focus but will obviously have a negative effect if it is all consuming.
So, I feel that the main thing to focus on is the psychological aspect of managing the fear of falling in a way that meets the real issue head on: RISK!
Risk Versus Value:
This is really where I think the biggest scope for improvement is. How much value that is placed on the project by the individual, whether its an on sight attempt with an unsavory run out between bolts or a project red point that is plagued with a bad clip.
If the value is low then the level of risk that one is prepared to invest is low, if the value of success is high then the level of risk that one is prepared to take is higher.
Obviously a tactic for Risk Management (assessment of risks) should be employed to mitigate the risk and also clarify what the risks and implications really are. But once sorted, then one should then be focusing on the level of value that one places on getting the route done or the style of approach required to maximize the opportunity...This level of value that you associate with it is what delivers the level of commitment in your actions.
So,
(Risk + Assessment) versus Value = Commitment
And so, if one assumes that the level of commitment is really what is the issue in respect of fall training, and that Value is really the main individual variable as most can assess risks and implement mitigating tactics etc...
So by focusing on the very personal the level of value you place on the project or on sight attempt then hopefully that will deliver a better understanding and allow you to place the 'fall' into a secondary place when focusing on the climb.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-7824126710508379907?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/06/scottish-youth-climbing-championships.html)
2 June 2011, 8:25 pm
Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011
Brief Report and pics by Kevin Howett
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[/table]The SYCC was held at the EICA: Ratho on Saturday 28th May to find the Scottish Youth Champions. With a continuing bad weather forecast for strong winds and rain, there was nowhere else better to be! As a result the arena was full to brimming all day with climbers escaping the remnants of the bad storm on the Monday before. Indeed it was filled with a lot of children! A good sign for Scottish climbing!
69 children attended the competition this year with the top 5 kids from the YCS categories being invited to fight it out, current GB Team menbers, and the additional 17-19yr category. Scott Forsyth took charge on the day as Area Youth Cordinator as Simon was unable to make it due to work commitments. Avril Gall organised the day's activities and made sure the scoring went smoothly. The routes were set by Neil McGeachy and Mark McGowan, and numerous parents played an instrumental role as judges or belayers.
It proved to be a long day, with registration starting at 9am and the day finishing at 8.30pm. A warm up session led by ex-GB Team member Robert Mackenzie, ably assisted by Calum Forsyth and GB Senior Team member Natalie Berry, saw the kids running and jumping around the arena. The routes were set on the Speed Wall, the old Competition Wall and The Hanger Wall and were all demonstrated at the start of the procedings - and there were a fair number of demonstrators caught out, much to the crowd's amusement! After the qualifying rounds, and whilst waiting for the Finals Routes to be prepared, presentations were made for the winners of the Youth Climbing Series (YCS) which had concluded a few weeks before. They all recieved their winners' plaques and their Team Hoodies. IdesignI have proudly sponsored the two Scottish Teams this year.
Then the SYCC Finals were held with all the kids competing from isolation in the bouldering room so all routes were attempted on-sight. There were some superb performances from the kids with on-sights of routes judged to be F7c+, especially from those in the 11-13yr & 14-16yr categories. There was a good turn-out for the 17-19yr category with 7 boys batteling for the title of champion's position, but only Ellen Macaskill competed for the girls. Tiso sponsored the SYCC prizes this year and the original 'sport lower-off' trophies made up by Scott Muir who held the inaugural youth championship were presented to the Champions.
A full report will be available soon, but the winners are listed below:
[tr][td]SYCC 2011[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Position[/td][td]Boys[/td][td]Girls[/td][/tr][tr][td]8yr-10yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
1st[/td][td]
Rhys Langlands[/td][td]
Rhiannon Freireich[/td][/tr][tr][td]
2nd[/td][td]
Rory White[/td][td]
Keri Maclennan[/td][/tr][tr][td]
3rd[/td][td]
Thomas Ryan[/td][td]
Holly Davis[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]11yr-13yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
1st[/td][td]
William Bosi[/td][td]
Kirsten Gray[/td][/tr][tr][td]
2nd[/td][td]
Angus Davidson[/td][td]
Gabriella Stewart[/td][/tr][tr][td]
3rd[/td][td]
Rory Cargill[/td][td]
Keira Farmer[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]14yr-16yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
1st[/td][td]
Stephen Addison[/td][td]
Rachel Carr[/td][/tr][tr][td]
2nd[/td][td]
Dylan Mackenzie[/td][td]
Nikki Addison[/td][/tr][tr][td]
3rd[/td][td]
Willis Morris[/td][td]
Rebekah Drummond[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]17yr-19yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]
1st[/td][td]
Ross Kirkland[/td][td]
Ellen Macaskill[/td][/tr][tr][td]
2nd[/td][td]
Alasdair Johnstone[/td][td]
[/td][/tr][tr][td]
3rd[/td][td]
Calum Forsyth[/td][/tr]
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(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2601766956427626164?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Amanda Did it ...'Dinnet Do It' (7c) (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/07/amanda-did-it-dinnet-do-it-7c.html)
24 July 2011, 7:23 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dtvpuuzJMQk/Tixr_cAmtgI/AAAAAAAAOAE/za9gpmjBzMg/s400/221297_10150150701223022_698388021_6840744_6826903_o+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dtvpuuzJMQk/Tixr_cAmtgI/AAAAAAAAOAE/za9gpmjBzMg/s1600/221297_10150150701223022_698388021_6840744_6826903_o+%25281%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda working her 7c project[/td][/tr]
[/table]Amanda sent her target project today 'Dinnet Do It (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=36242)' (7c), which is great news for her and for ReAch. I have been reducing my 1 to 1 coaching days over the last month or so as I begin to understand what I want from my coaching and helping Amanda unlock her true potential in climbing has been a huge pleasure for me. I love to see someone get something tangible back from a coaching session that is real and not just an organised exchange of information of skills or technique drills.
She has a strong commitment to her climbing and to see her get her target 3 months before her expectations is just bloody marvelous! Well done you Amanda!
I love working with people like you and continue to be inspired by your love for your climbing and your special training psyche... :-) happy days dude...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zyqDwqcZ7CY/Tix3nrNQU6I/AAAAAAAAOAc/FryCLOj8KGY/s400/262839_10150333446918203_786038202_9779396_6228151_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zyqDwqcZ7CY/Tix3nrNQU6I/AAAAAAAAOAc/FryCLOj8KGY/s1600/262839_10150333446918203_786038202_9779396_6228151_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-apWNJ2thaDQ/Tix4BG59euI/AAAAAAAAOAk/qr5Fu2QCRho/s400/206099_10150333447298203_786038202_9779407_8051110_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-apWNJ2thaDQ/Tix4BG59euI/AAAAAAAAOAk/qr5Fu2QCRho/s1600/206099_10150333447298203_786038202_9779407_8051110_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-72YYu_RyKK8/Tix4CEfGRtI/AAAAAAAAOAw/QaudgdZMBFg/s400/185361_10150333447513203_786038202_9779412_723712_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-72YYu_RyKK8/Tix4CEfGRtI/AAAAAAAAOAw/QaudgdZMBFg/s1600/185361_10150333447513203_786038202_9779412_723712_n.jpg)[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KVUrc8gVfM0/Tixruk77_YI/AAAAAAAAOAA/bX-DjpuH0vY/s400/278468_10150243522913022_698388021_7684778_614537_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KVUrc8gVfM0/Tixruk77_YI/AAAAAAAAOAA/bX-DjpuH0vY/s1600/278468_10150243522913022_698388021_7684778_614537_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]send....Happiness! [/td][/tr]
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(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1287737708482369351?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Inspiration... My friend Paul Pritchard - Trikes on the Roof of the World (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/07/inspiration-my-friend-paul-pritchard.html)
28 July 2011, 9:10 am
http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/424152792/trikes-on-the-roof-of-the-world?ref=live
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-5876012902363938769?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Johnny Dawes’ Essentials of Elegant Motion (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/07/johnny-dawes-essentials-of-elegant.html)
30 July 2011, 2:10 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSGrhM_L4l8/TjQI7XpyENI/AAAAAAAAOFM/7iSc_qAcJIU/s400/JDA008_1.jpg)
Johnny Dawes’ essentials of elegant motion
“There are so many rock types, so many different climbers it seems improbable there exists a coaching method that could account for all circumstances. The foundation for such a method would have to be a hard and fast rule and there is just such a rule – the equivalent in climbing of the racing line on a racetrack – an easiest, fastest way…”
[Each hold has a particular direction in which it works best. Place your elbow or knee in line with that direction and more purchase from the hold results and progress is easier]
Commonly climbers do two moves every time they make a move to a new hold; one to get the hold and then one to settle onto it in the direction it works best. Start from a very slightly different position, go straight to the sweet spot on the next hold and you do half the moves!
I split my explanation into the What, How and When to move.
What to use:
Select holds furthest away from the plane of the face; sometimes a lesser hold in an outer position makes a move less strenuous.
Spot oppositions; when clamping or bridging becomes involved the stocks, bonds and dividends of legs, back and waist can be used rather than always dipping into the crucial current account of the forearm.
Solve sequence; look at what could be used as a hold, noting which hand it works with, and whether you can use both hands or feet on it.
How to move
It is understandable technique goes wrong so regularly. Already in a position you’re comfortable in, why move anywhere but directly to the next hold. But how you do that makes all the difference. Imagine the easiest shape of your whole body on the next hold and hit that rather than go directly to the hold the easiest way and a host of benefits become clear:
The move is more likely to be successful.
To be less injurious.
To be less wearing.
To be felt before it happens allowing confidence to
opens up the possibility to feel the fall the move threatens to make, move your body in that very direction first, before moving and the secondary move, complete with it’s skin tearing, tendon straining jolt can be easily avoided. Your body weight will do something, you’d best work out how to move it to your advantage. Imagining the fall that a move unleashes countering it precisely, aiming for best shape on hold rather than just grabbing the hold renders the move less powerful, saving your strength, countering the fear of falling because you can feel how you are controlling it physically. Feeling holds within whole easier shapes the possibility to feel the shape after that quickly means how to build a weight reducing rhythm can
Climb less strenuously – get body weight to move to your advantage rather than just drag you off.
Protect one’s body from injury – by making the moves more gradually impact forces are reduced.
Work out how to do moves you can’t do by hanging on and memorising the feel of being in the position, or using the fall to point out the vectors that are missing from your movement. You can even use this to mentally practise moves you or anyone may never climb, learning their technical lessons.
Dealing with the fear of falling – knowing how you will fall off a move you inject the exactly opposite movement to counter that fall, and too, the fear of it.
Some simplified abridged versions of the dynamic approach.
Sideways weight transferal – swinging weight over a foot to move up the other.
Inward waist thrusts – to stop you peeling back as a hand lets go to reach the other up.
Diagonal rock-over – from out and to the side, to up and over and in, onto the foothold.
Strategy, planning, purchases and research.
Whatever branch of our neurotic little activity tickles your fancy, coalescing what you want to accomplish, how you intend to do it will make adapting to inevitable changing circumstances more successful.
During my new route campaign on the Eastern front of the Peak District I kept a regularly updated list of what I wished to climb. When weather, partner slippage, gear foibles or some other unpredictable might otherwise have frustrated my efforts a clear plan made adapting easy.
Research and buy the best stuff you can afford, borrow it, swap it, use your noodle to get the kit together. Replace before you have to, keeping a lower performance alternative with which to practise handicapped or in the case of boots, which was what was on my mind, more comfortably.
Develop good practises. Clean boots, trim weight away from gear, organise so you can leave the house in a minute, pay bills, pack lunch, stretch to rest etc. Be sensitive to what things power you up and what drags you down. In Kinaesthesiology changing muscle resistance gives away what helps and hinders. Even holding a diet Coke in your other hand reduces the strength of the other so don’t be so sure you already know how everything is. Keep awake to what might help, it might even be a session on the Campus board if you don’t get injured.
All these train spotty details make a difference but more than anything being creative and dogged will out. Turn up and turn out more. Become faster, more precise, stronger with a greater variety of skills, keep note of partners with motors and gites or clever ways to move.
Johnny Dawes
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I will be at Edinburgh film festival 7th October. Please contact me on the following email for any course inquiries: dawesjohnny86@gmail.com or visit www.johnnydawes.co.uk (http://www.johnnydawes.co.uk/)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-4047831856648147167?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Lead and Speed Climbing Coaching Sessions for Kids at EICA: Ratho (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/09/lead-and-speed-climbing-coaching.html)
12 September 2011, 3:53 pm
Friday 9th September 2011
Scottish Youth Event Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching PrepDate: 1st October 2011Venue: EICA: Ratho
Each year MCofS has organised a prep weekend for children who wish to enter the British Championships. This year, for the first time, a Speed Climbing Championship will also be held and the MCofS prep event will this year include advice, information and coaching in speed climbing from MCofS coach Neil McGeachy (ReAch Coaching) and EICA Instructor Callum Forsyth, ably assistend by Scott Forsyth and Sandy Carr from the Quickdraw Club who helped organise the speed discipline for the recent IFSC European Youth Cup.
With the British Championships being held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena this year, the MCofS prep event is being organised in association with EICA: Ratho and is open to all children who competed in the Youth Climbing Series in Scotland, members of the GB Team and any other children resident in Scotland between 13yr and 19yrs old who may wish to have a go.
Nic Crawshaw, EICA Climbing Instructor Team Leader said,
"We are delighted to be hosting the first ever British Speed Climbing Championship at the EICA. We have the only IFSC world record format speed wall in the UK and have athletes from as far afield as the USA coming to train on the facility. Speed climbing is shortlisted as a future Olympic sport and with support from the MCofS this facility will allow us to train the champions of tommorrow."
Full details and an application form can be downloaded from the 'Kids Events' (http://www.mcofs.org.uk/kids-events.asp)page. Non Members of MCofS can attend: they must join the MCofS (in order to ensure liability insurance) as Youth Members which is being offered at the reduced rate of £10.
NOTE:
The BLCC 2011 will be held at EICA: Ratho on the weekend of October 15th - 16th. For the first time it will include a Speed Climbing Championship on the purpose built speed wall in the Arena. The competition is open to anyone resident in the UK. There are 11 categories of Youth, Junior, Senior and Veteran for climbers born between 1967 and 1992.
Children born between 1992 and 1998 are eligible to compete in the BLCC. They MUST be capable of climbing on lead.Competing in the Speed competition involves top-rope climbing belayed from below. Climbers can compete in both disciplines.
More details of the British Championships can be found HERE (http://www.mcofs.org.uk/blcc-bbc.asp)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-9119509904446528564?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/09/pushing-through-plateau-in-your.html)
16 September 2011, 7:30 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMT00WEyfg/TmpKWyVk4KI/AAAAAAAAOXo/yfgasJq1Dkc/s400/IMG02392-20110908-1840.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMT00WEyfg/TmpKWyVk4KI/AAAAAAAAOXo/yfgasJq1Dkc/s1600/IMG02392-20110908-1840.jpg)
Increasing strength is a great way to crack the concrete of a climbing plateau and systems training seems to be the best way that I have found to increase my finger strength...not bouldering. Bouldering is not as deep and is great for honing power but I have always found that structured systems training the most effective then followed by bouldering. To pull powerfully from one hold to another on a boulder problem, you must first be able to hold and pull on the hold first! This is finger 'strength' not power...
To shift into a new level of climbing requires change to what you are doing and for that I find you also need a commitment to the process of what you are trying to achieve...
I have always found that a particular focus on one strategy for a time period of just two weeks with total consistency in the training and recovery provides noticeable results. I have recently been focused on trying to establish a new level of Power Endurance and to do that I have been using a mix of plyometrics and absolute strength tactics to try and lift my capacity for singular power to a higher level before attempting to convert to power endurance.
This style of training (plyometrics), tends to require not only a higher level of strength to control the shock loading as it penetrates the nervous system, but also longer recovery on particular exercises is required.
For our Advanced Plyo-Systems Training Program then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (markmcgowan01@gmail.com)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hUp7lAofsc/Tmz0bHwYCRI/AAAAAAAAOYw/RJktX_zrhDA/s400/IMG02407-20110911-1622.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_hUp7lAofsc/Tmz0bHwYCRI/AAAAAAAAOYw/RJktX_zrhDA/s1600/IMG02407-20110911-1622.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tBEDOk-3dIk/Tm5miAZjOZI/AAAAAAAAOZc/EFJEq_8KJM0/s400/chart2+%252818%2529.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tBEDOk-3dIk/Tm5miAZjOZI/AAAAAAAAOZc/EFJEq_8KJM0/s1600/chart2+%252818%2529.png)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6886103263773334388?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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British Lead Climbing Championships 2011 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/10/british-lead-climbing-championships.html)
17 October 2011, 8:53 pm
The competition wall at EICA Ratho
The Junior, Youth and Veterans categories were held on Saturday 15th. On the second day, Sunday 16th, the senior BLCCs, and the British Speed Climbing Championships, were held.The BMC British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCCs) were held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday and Sunday 15th & 16th October 2011.Junior & Youth Results
Female Juniors1. Lucy Mitchell
2. Jessica MCCaskey
Male Juniors1. Ed Hamer
2. Luke Tilley
3. Jonathan Field
Female Youth A1. Charlotte Garden
2. Sarah Pashley
3. Jennifer Wood
Male Youth A1. Jonny White
2. Tom Bonnert
3. Andrew Colligan
Female Youth B1. Molly Thompson-Smith
2. Rachel Carr
3. Tara Hayes
Male Youth B1. Connor Byrne
2. Dominic Burns
3. Brendan Gallagher
Female Youth C1. Ellisa Bryant
2. Carmel Moran
3. Hannah Slaney
Male Youth C1. Angus Davidson
2. William Bosi
3. James Pope
The male veterans competition also took place on Saturday 15th. No female veterans entered hence there was no competition.
Male Veterans 1. Eddie Cooper
2. Mark Richardson
3. Nick Colton
Click here (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/file/competitions/Junior_BLCC_11.pdf) for full results of the junior BLCC
Senior Results
The senior BLCCs were held on the Sunday, 16th November.
In two really exciting finals, boulderer Dave Barrans pipped Ed Hamer. In the female final, last woman out, Shauna Coxsey, moved one hold past Nat Berry's high point to clip the lower-off to loud cheers. Totally absorbing!
Female Senior
1. Shauna Coxsey
2. Natalie Berry
3. Michaela Tracy
Male Senior
1. Dave Barrans
2. Ed Hamer
3. Luke Tilley
Click here (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/file/competitions/Senior_BLCC_11.pdf) for full results of the senior BLCC
Speed Climbing results (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=4512)
More information about the BLCCs and the BSCCs here (http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2540)
BMC thanks supporters
The BMC would like to thank all those who contributed to the success of the event. This includes the vast number of enthusiatic volunteers who do such a fantastic job. They judge, chaperone, belay, score the event, register competitors, allocate T-shirts, warm up competitors, run errands, and so on, the list is virtually endless. The event really couldn't take place without their outstanding and unstinting support. And, also, let's not forget the competitors themselves and all their numerous supporters!
Thanks also go to all the professionals who work at the event. This includes the owners and staff at EICA Ratho for making us feel so welcome and putting in a huge effort to make the final a success, the commentator Ian Smith, the route-setters for great routes, BMC staff both present at the event and those in the office who work behind the scenes.
And finally, thanks to all the sponsors who supported both the BMC in putting on this event. These include EICA, Mammut, and Entre-prises.
By Nick Colton
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-4129837368448029797?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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FULL OF MYSELF... Johnny Dawes book Launch (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2011/10/full-of-myself-johnny-dawes-book-launch.html)
21 October 2011, 6:05 pm
FULL OF MYSELF
"Written with devoted passion and brutal honesty, Full of Myself lays bare Johnny's bipolar mix of privilege and pain, wizardry and dysfunction. Master of friction and momentum, the living embodiment of poetry in motion turns his hand to pen with great effect."
Leo Houlding
"It's brilliant - frank, funny, telling his full life story, not just the climbing. And the climbing accounts are riveting as well. A great read from cover to cover."
Sir Chris Bonington
"Much like his climbing, his imagination leaps. This is a beautiful book about an extraordinary person. William Blake with sticky boots."
Simon Beaufoy (Academy Award Winning Screen Writer - Slum Dog Millionaire, Full Monty, 127 Hours)
"I don't climb, I ride bikes, but this book got me by the balls!!!"
Steve Peat (World Downhill Mountainbike champion)
"Johnny always seemed some kind of freak from the very first picture of him I ever saw. I could see positive freakiness that made him go out of the ordinary, to climb those things that must be admired and that should inspire many to come."
Adam Ondra
To buy a hot off the press signed hardback copy, click on the Buy Now button (http://www.johnnydawes.com/buy-stuff/full-of-myself/).£25
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-389099079465560507?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Training with the psyched female climber... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/01/training-with-psyched-female-climber.html)
21 January 2012, 9:07 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMT00WEyfg/TmpKWyVk4KI/AAAAAAAAOXo/yfgasJq1Dkc/s400/IMG02392-20110908-1840.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9CMT00WEyfg/TmpKWyVk4KI/AAAAAAAAOXo/yfgasJq1Dkc/s1600/IMG02392-20110908-1840.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The CamPUS - perhaps the biggest strength gains system..[/td][/tr]
[/table]Coaching the psyched female climber has become something I have found myself doing more and more over the last year. From a male coach's point of view; it is very interesting to visit the female climbing world from up close. It has struck me that the male climbing perspective is different in one main way:
The main difference is how male climbers' perceive the world of the psyched female boulderer or route climber:
The difference between a psyched female climber wanting to be the best she can and a psyched male climber is NADA ...NOTHING! And that seems to be the crux of the less motivated male to understand when in the company of a strong psyched female rock climber.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qoiLeA9d0HE/TvuEhLAxyNI/AAAAAAAAPSc/HG9Pm5MvWz4/s400/IMG02970-20111228-1534.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qoiLeA9d0HE/TvuEhLAxyNI/AAAAAAAAPSc/HG9Pm5MvWz4/s1600/IMG02970-20111228-1534.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo squeezing the shit out of the granite bloc at Can Bouquet, near Barcelona![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioSVfrBBiS8/Tvo-QoCbAjI/AAAAAAAAPR4/KwResY8WEqI/s400/IMG02960-20111227-1732.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioSVfrBBiS8/Tvo-QoCbAjI/AAAAAAAAPR4/KwResY8WEqI/s1600/IMG02960-20111227-1732.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Training session en Barcelona[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ytr_zFc4Q34/Tvo-g2FFvwI/AAAAAAAAPR8/yfl25RJM5C0/s400/IMG02950-20111227-1529.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ytr_zFc4Q34/Tvo-g2FFvwI/AAAAAAAAPR8/yfl25RJM5C0/s1600/IMG02950-20111227-1529.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-795GdTSw4a4/Tvo9_o1VaNI/AAAAAAAAPRs/_OmHMnThyVs/s400/IMG02952-20111227-1608.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-795GdTSw4a4/Tvo9_o1VaNI/AAAAAAAAPRs/_OmHMnThyVs/s1600/IMG02952-20111227-1608.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wcg69YhlKR0/TxmV5emRj4I/AAAAAAAAPbU/xxdizKWNj74/s400/406642_10150575060071719_588236718_11019086_1423798342_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wcg69YhlKR0/TxmV5emRj4I/AAAAAAAAPbU/xxdizKWNj74/s1600/406642_10150575060071719_588236718_11019086_1423798342_n+%25281%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Another psyched Catalan climber at Sant Benet, Montserrat, Espana[/td][/tr]
[/table]Another interesting area is the CamPUS board, which is potentially the best system for delivering the highest climbing strength gains, yet in Scotland it is not used by both genders in a balanced way. This has nothing to do with the system, just the culture in the sport perhaps?
Female climbers seem more open to coaching in Scotland than males and I find the most exciting part of my personal coaching journey over the last few months is being placed alongside the female climber in a predominately male sport. Various issues are present but the initial level of courage that it takes to deal with having more attention on them than a guy at the local wall is a real factor that is present.
From my point of view it felt nearly as intense as being in a climbing competition environment with allot of eyes on us while we trained together over the last 2 months in Glasgow and Barcelona...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XIi7GYaXXRc/Tpx5VFY_f3I/AAAAAAAAO2Q/BD6iF2DWMLs/s400/IMG00358_2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XIi7GYaXXRc/Tpx5VFY_f3I/AAAAAAAAO2Q/BD6iF2DWMLs/s1600/IMG00358_2.jpg)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivLJYldJ_Cc/TnpZWfR2Z7I/AAAAAAAAOdE/m8nCx1iG0RM/s400/IMG02475-20110921-2040.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ivLJYldJ_Cc/TnpZWfR2Z7I/AAAAAAAAOdE/m8nCx1iG0RM/s1600/IMG02475-20110921-2040.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo at ReAch Climbing Coach doing finger strength work[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FtNkAY7buj4/TnpZgg3o50I/AAAAAAAAOdM/20mJo-Xn4mM/s400/IMG02479-20110921-2124.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FtNkAY7buj4/TnpZgg3o50I/AAAAAAAAOdM/20mJo-Xn4mM/s1600/IMG02479-20110921-2124.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Marie on campus moves at ReAch for power[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmlngA7OX0E/TnpZbge1dWI/AAAAAAAAOdI/2znV5gIO5ag/s400/IMG02478-20110921-2042.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmlngA7OX0E/TnpZbge1dWI/AAAAAAAAOdI/2znV5gIO5ag/s1600/IMG02478-20110921-2042.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Finger strength work on 45 board[/td][/tr]
[/table]
The machine: Amanda has a complete room in her home dedicated to her climbing training with 4 different boards at different angles and various systems training devices to keep her strong and maintain the combination of a hard training regime and a professional working life...
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1H4fBJ5-Duw/TxsPWMJwSQI/AAAAAAAAPck/nwp8EBcFSQs/s400/409180_10150617414693203_786038202_11358090_405580188_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1H4fBJ5-Duw/TxsPWMJwSQI/AAAAAAAAPck/nwp8EBcFSQs/s1600/409180_10150617414693203_786038202_11358090_405580188_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda on a campus session at Ratho[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uvyMxhJEKWo/TxsPjyfFLhI/AAAAAAAAPcg/9A5iI5unyVw/s400/284194_10150333447088203_786038202_9779400_6047850_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uvyMxhJEKWo/TxsPjyfFLhI/AAAAAAAAPcg/9A5iI5unyVw/s1600/284194_10150333447088203_786038202_9779400_6047850_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]la maquina sending her 7c project[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9czTltFRyo/ToDiiK2GuSI/AAAAAAAAOf8/x5Dx-eiXb44/s400/IMG02544-20110925-1756.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P9czTltFRyo/ToDiiK2GuSI/AAAAAAAAOf8/x5Dx-eiXb44/s1600/IMG02544-20110925-1756.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda enjoying her other machine after board session in her house[/td][/tr]
[/table]
In the end, the determined athlete quickly breaks down these and many other barriers to succeed in their sport and I am extremely exited that Scotland has allot of strong female climbers and many more in the making especially with the new facilities that we have such as recently opened world class TCA Glasgow (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/)bouldering wall. VENGA!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SLxZiYwKTAc/Tpx5zpk6IAI/AAAAAAAAO2Y/hIFdZ70qZ0c/s400/IMG00355_2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SLxZiYwKTAc/Tpx5zpk6IAI/AAAAAAAAO2Y/hIFdZ70qZ0c/s1600/IMG00355_2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TCA Glasgow[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a18YjCpIySg/Tpszt0KclAI/AAAAAAAAO-g/yzHGfzEph2E/s400/IMG00329_2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a18YjCpIySg/Tpszt0KclAI/AAAAAAAAO-g/yzHGfzEph2E/s1600/IMG00329_2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The female seniors final line up at the BLCCs in EICA - October 2011[/td][/tr]
[/table]For further information on Reach Climbing Coach 1:1 coaching and training sessions in Scotland or Spain (Cataluña) please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com
"...working with Mark (https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1OaEvFWPAxnzyHZ9eCUaaaysRiYfiG1U9_gHQQc8SliQ) was a massively positive experience for me. Mark has a well known infectious mad psyche and belief in himself and his clients, it's really hard to fail in that environment". (Amanda Lyons)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8884336112815084562?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Inspiration... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/01/inspiration.html)
22 January 2012, 5:00 pm
Paul Pritchard on Rainbow Slab (http://vimeo.com/18537625) from Bamboo Chicken Productions (http://vimeo.com/user1515109) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_wnKXQQd1Y/TV04zpiAi3I/AAAAAAAAKHw/C7I9GoEV1hw/s400/paul+and+i+rainbow+10.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_wnKXQQd1Y/TV04zpiAi3I/AAAAAAAAKHw/C7I9GoEV1hw/s1600/paul+and+i+rainbow+10.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Paul & JD[/td][/tr]
[/table]If I'm honest, I cried when I first saw this video of my two friends, whom I hadn't seen since the time of the photo below the video. Paul and Johnny are both great and inspiring people and I can only tip my hat to Paul for his awesome bravery and to Johnny for his openness and kindness... Such friends are always an inspiration to live bigger and try just a little harder... (Mark McGowan)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1492178514286292683?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/01/nuestro-entrenador-de-escalada-mark.html)
25 January 2012, 1:07 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wsGyuY4Jwdw/TneqTn09kRI/AAAAAAAAOcM/xyh0exQ1zo0/s400/Fullscreen+capture+25062011+153445.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wsGyuY4Jwdw/TneqTn09kRI/AAAAAAAAOcM/xyh0exQ1zo0/s1600/Fullscreen+capture+25062011+153445.jpg)
Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1OaEvFWPAxnzyHZ9eCUaaaysRiYfiG1U9_gHQQc8SliQ/edit)) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ... en contacto con Mark markmcgowan01@gmail.com directa a preguntar por precios o concertar una reunión.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VzLn_ZtzVnI/TvoyB4c3H3I/AAAAAAAAPP0/lGfZJ2MgpAI/s400/IMG02897-20111223-1437.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VzLn_ZtzVnI/TvoyB4c3H3I/AAAAAAAAPP0/lGfZJ2MgpAI/s1600/IMG02897-20111223-1437.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Montserrat, Cataluna[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bjfrgeuseno/TyAEj5ftteI/AAAAAAAAPfU/473a3H0SrIw/s400/409295_10150575055316719_588236718_11019052_906963108_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bjfrgeuseno/TyAEj5ftteI/AAAAAAAAPfU/473a3H0SrIw/s1600/409295_10150575055316719_588236718_11019052_906963108_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Dw_sOMbAtc/TyAEf5sADUI/AAAAAAAAPfM/sKutp-JnKn0/s400/394840_10150575055561719_588236718_11019054_1282066422_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Dw_sOMbAtc/TyAEf5sADUI/AAAAAAAAPfM/sKutp-JnKn0/s1600/394840_10150575055561719_588236718_11019054_1282066422_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Alex tirando con fuerza con el apoyo del entrenador![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-36epIhVWRrE/TyAEmqZQegI/AAAAAAAAPfc/uyz-5RsOIEg/s400/402442_10150575059771719_588236718_11019083_1442593631_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-36epIhVWRrE/TyAEmqZQegI/AAAAAAAAPfc/uyz-5RsOIEg/s1600/402442_10150575059771719_588236718_11019083_1442593631_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td] el duo de locos!Sant Benet, Montserrat[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UhlFIx5enkc/TyAErKNtaMI/AAAAAAAAPfk/S0kugtLEMfU/s400/166953_10150575056241719_588236718_11019057_1848614554_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UhlFIx5enkc/TyAErKNtaMI/AAAAAAAAPfk/S0kugtLEMfU/s1600/166953_10150575056241719_588236718_11019057_1848614554_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo demostrando un buen talon en f7a en Can Bouquet puede cerca de Barcelona[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN_3zsRODPw/TyAE1TqlObI/AAAAAAAAPfs/7XOlVeMVhBc/s400/383598_10150575055946719_588236718_11019056_836226834_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GN_3zsRODPw/TyAE1TqlObI/AAAAAAAAPfs/7XOlVeMVhBc/s1600/383598_10150575055946719_588236718_11019056_836226834_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-3152940919730877560?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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The 'Mind' of a project... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/02/mind-of-project.html)
11 February 2012, 11:58 am
Recently I was flattered to be recognized by an awesome Spanish female climber and trainer who is rigorous in her study of the training for sport climbing. (http://www.facebook.com/evalopezriv/posts/2904009751866)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3uc8MSgcio0/TzZV7dgl1aI/AAAAAAAAQBs/th2bT3yQg60/s400/ola+taistra+i+eva+lopez_fot.s.wutke.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3uc8MSgcio0/TzZV7dgl1aI/AAAAAAAAQBs/th2bT3yQg60/s1600/ola+taistra+i+eva+lopez_fot.s.wutke.jpg)
Eva Lopez (http://eva-lopez.blogspot.com/) has impressed me greatly, not just by her climbing (8c - that is amazing and stands for itself!) but by her approach to research and it is this which interests me allot for now.
Having the patience and strategic intent to do a great , in depth job of understanding a key element to improving one's climbing is something I have slowly began to try and unfold. Being in contact with Eva recently has certainly reminded me of how I need to be more long term minded about my climbing strategies especially to help me get to the next level and break a psychological barrier for myself.
This all got me thinking about my previous approach when I started back in 2010 with 6a to 8a (https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=1D4aB8E7lHuJjaZZg-IpdaJp-Z0E5Wzb-negQKTJTlJvzNQeJr2g-c-KeRFEo&hl=en_GB) and I just remembered the most important thing that drove the whole process... The project and my mindset that allowed me to complete it.
It just came back to me as I was thinking about my new project and the frustrations that are in the way (current elbow injury, 4 kilos of extra weight - which was intentional to train with in a bouldering environment since October BLCC's to increase my maximal strength but i over cooked it!), then I began to get that feeling again... that certain knowing feeling, when I am beginning to realize that I am going to do this project.., because I want it!
The importance of it for me, has to outweigh all the other things in my life for that period of the project and so, that is a big requirement for any human being, especially in this fast paced world full of things that are allowed to get in the way of staying focused on a particularly personal objective. But the answer before was for me to build my life around the project, not build the project around my life...
And so, I want to be trained over a sustainable period of the project that will allow me to make the changes and truly facilitate what needs to happen to my body to achieve the goal... Climb with much better climbers who have the experience, be motivated by them and trust in myself by making action in my daily life over wishful thinking.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bm-pE8OEdQs/TxmYbR9GWjI/AAAAAAAAPbw/K9lK0IFtwEE/s400/IMG03093-20120105-1243.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bm-pE8OEdQs/TxmYbR9GWjI/AAAAAAAAPbw/K9lK0IFtwEE/s1600/IMG03093-20120105-1243.jpg)
I fell off a 7b in Cubells near Lleida with mi amiga from Monistrol when here at Christmas after my knee operation and although 8b just felt so far away then (still does now) I told her I needed to fall on a route since my operation, because only then could i begin to start trying hard again - trying close to my true limit.
The mind obviously drives this and it is the holder of motivation and the value that I have to place on achieving this goal, firstly has to make sense: The plan must be capable 'as a strategy for success' and address all the outcomes in it's path including my own weaknesses and self doubts. But I understand I have to have that singular simple belief that I will climb 8b and then, I use my head to get me there.
So for me, ocho b (8b) is not a number anymore..It's my new life and those 'chains' will be soooooooooooo sweet.. this i know, but the journey, the journey is what i love... Vamos! (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApHg0QoNLhFFdFV4MTllWUlFOGYwUDEtWjQwNzFNc2c)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6685498706001754455?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada by Haroun Souirji (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/02/la-obsesion-film-about-dani-andrada-by.html)
15 February 2012, 10:51 pm
La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada (http://vimeo.com/36642899) from Haroun Souirji (http://vimeo.com/haroun) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1116361422461015339?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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For Poland ...Trening dla maksymalnej sily palcow.(Maximal Finger Strength.) (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/02/for-poland-trening-dla-maksymalnej-sily.html)
17 February 2012, 10:31 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCXGjbroH-w/Tz7QJlB2xAI/AAAAAAAAQPA/uwrtuxDvBRo/s400/Fullscreen+capture+17022012+110802.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WCXGjbroH-w/Tz7QJlB2xAI/AAAAAAAAQPA/uwrtuxDvBRo/s1600/Fullscreen+capture+17022012+110802.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OYWUiTTKEyw/TzwJwgW-ibI/AAAAAAAAQIY/ZIN3ytc3bGQ/s400/IMG03544-20120215-1413.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OYWUiTTKEyw/TzwJwgW-ibI/AAAAAAAAQIY/ZIN3ytc3bGQ/s1600/IMG03544-20120215-1413.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQF397d0sGc/Tz7POQcIp5I/AAAAAAAAQO4/qJIlImcdRd4/s400/417054_10150625586413609_737988608_8984289_1309550674_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oQF397d0sGc/Tz7POQcIp5I/AAAAAAAAQO4/qJIlImcdRd4/s1600/417054_10150625586413609_737988608_8984289_1309550674_n.jpg)
Thanks to my Polish friend Agnieszka, we now have our first Polish translated training doc available online for 5.00 EUROS payable via paypal. (https://www.paypal.com/uk/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_flow&SESSION=ui9Yf7oa3jzoC8LoiXUpGkHXhikSVaBJLHbGtG0-bga1OCxE1ml4jNTg9Dy&dispatch=50a222a57771920b6a3d7b606239e4d529b525e0b7e69bf0224adecfb0124e9b61f737ba21b08198394a36eb091078947b44ba9ddd4b06b8)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6331897946886148843?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak: Putting the right people around you... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/02/stevie-haston-drinks-too-much-is-ugly.html)
21 February 2012, 10:18 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kIr6RuJAVNA/T0QC6HV6lkI/AAAAAAAAQSs/iQ4jgO4f7Wo/s400/402591_10150635711163609_737988608_9019727_252929939_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kIr6RuJAVNA/T0QC6HV6lkI/AAAAAAAAQSs/iQ4jgO4f7Wo/s1600/402591_10150635711163609_737988608_9019727_252929939_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A room with a view! [/td][/tr]
[/table]
Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak... These are words, his words, in his own house of training pain.
He is also an inspiring, conditioned athlete, who is strong... but I concur with him on the ugly as he is not anywhere near as handsome as me...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFx_YlATFMU/T0QC0L6eKzI/AAAAAAAAQSg/d-A3zBgAbRQ/s400/417586_10150635846713609_737988608_9020224_1633551281_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fFx_YlATFMU/T0QC0L6eKzI/AAAAAAAAQSg/d-A3zBgAbRQ/s1600/417586_10150635846713609_737988608_9020224_1633551281_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dsTjQGk88h0/T0QCx_77lxI/AAAAAAAAQSc/OpBEUNKnv60/s400/431756_10150635846368609_737988608_9020220_1520200889_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dsTjQGk88h0/T0QCx_77lxI/AAAAAAAAQSc/OpBEUNKnv60/s1600/431756_10150635846368609_737988608_9020220_1520200889_n.jpg)
Inspiration:
I have never struggled to take this from others, but first you need to find them, then put them in your life.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YflZkK4Uvrw/T0Uss_vMdiI/AAAAAAAAQUE/B-j9lE15ow4/s400/401511_10150638057243609_737988608_9026213_211361048_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YflZkK4Uvrw/T0Uss_vMdiI/AAAAAAAAQUE/B-j9lE15ow4/s1600/401511_10150638057243609_737988608_9026213_211361048_n+%25281%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth[/td][/tr]
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I'm currently staying with the first British woman to climb 8b: Stunt woman - Ruth Jenkins (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ATDGNUlpvAqEKCPzHjRGCtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink) and today, I visited my old friend, athlete and Alpiniste Stevie Haston (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/) for a very specific reason...
- to help me with my rehab
- to help me prepare and condition to train to a new level
- to provide with good direction in my training and analyse my weaknesses
- to inspire
He scored me on the following:
- Flex 0/10
- Core 2/10
- Fingers crimp strength 6/10
- Open handed 3/10
- Dumbness 2/10
Now, there is no point going to someone who just tell you lies, but a 6 for crimp strength... that hurt!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-boK8zOKdHBc/T0QC8WhY6DI/AAAAAAAAQSw/-xyL940iCn8/s400/402556_10150635844843609_737988608_9020210_1861200000_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-boK8zOKdHBc/T0QC8WhY6DI/AAAAAAAAQSw/-xyL940iCn8/s1600/402556_10150635844843609_737988608_9020210_1861200000_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI7HlOVy96c/T0QC_p52bzI/AAAAAAAAQS0/zirgfMledAY/s400/431018_10150635849128609_737988608_9020232_2087449780_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZI7HlOVy96c/T0QC_p52bzI/AAAAAAAAQS0/zirgfMledAY/s1600/431018_10150635849128609_737988608_9020232_2087449780_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PfLb4LvtVJo/T0QDDAC46kI/AAAAAAAAQS4/RtVIzJMeHeY/s400/404368_10150635849838609_737988608_9020235_1021667299_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PfLb4LvtVJo/T0QDDAC46kI/AAAAAAAAQS4/RtVIzJMeHeY/s1600/404368_10150635849838609_737988608_9020235_1021667299_n.jpg)
Uncovering weakness honestly is the first most important tactic in designing a training strategy because it is this that leverages obvious improvements quickly. Then the smart stuff needs to be designed that services the project requirements (in my case 8b) and the individuals capacity to cope with the training volumes and intensities.
So today, I have gone a step further in my quest. Now i need to search for my sexy new best friend for 2012... she is called the proyecto and she goes by the name of 8b! venga!
Entrenamiento: encadenar a 8b (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0ApHg0QoNLhFFdFV4MTllWUlFOGYwUDEtWjQwNzFNc2c&output=html)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-3832975931986618061?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Stevie Haston Joins ReAch Climbing Coach! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/02/stevie-haston-joins-reach-climbing.html)
22 February 2012, 9:43 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9Y6O8ZyGTg/T0VdflLP_4I/AAAAAAAAQUM/vFF2oenD13E/s400/227677_147533405316277_141546855914932_264998_7263956_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e9Y6O8ZyGTg/T0VdflLP_4I/AAAAAAAAQUM/vFF2oenD13E/s1600/227677_147533405316277_141546855914932_264998_7263956_n.jpg)
I drove up the mountain today to meet a friend and a true inspiration to me as a trainer to discuss coaching in the UK, coaching in Spain, coaching in the Pyrenees and finally coaching in Malta!. I first met Stevie when I was 17 in Wales and as someone who has always personaly loved training as much as climbing, Stevie is like THE Boss in training. His experience is a given but we are both agreed on the concept of change that climbing coaching is embarking upon and I am delighted to anounce his joining ReAch Climbing Coach.
I set off on this training journey in 2010 and tonight in a small village in the Pyrenees I am truly inpsired by the discussions, the plans and the outcome of having Stevie Haston (Alpiniste) join this great coaching journey...
http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJj2ElrfgJA/T0Vdk42EOFI/AAAAAAAAQUQ/TukC5mdMzgY/s400/207855_141546902581594_141546855914932_230413_7175840_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJj2ElrfgJA/T0Vdk42EOFI/AAAAAAAAQUQ/TukC5mdMzgY/s1600/207855_141546902581594_141546855914932_230413_7175840_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KW0jIdWxVx4/T0VdoTzHVQI/AAAAAAAAQUU/bs1QDb6VC1k/s400/229625_145232615546356_141546855914932_253187_5149657_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KW0jIdWxVx4/T0VdoTzHVQI/AAAAAAAAQUU/bs1QDb6VC1k/s1600/229625_145232615546356_141546855914932_253187_5149657_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-3594173565513949601?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Chaining 8b : the training journey so far... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/chaining-8b-training-journey-so-far.html)
3 March 2012, 10:52 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X0kRkoYYfJw/T1HijhIMWfI/AAAAAAAAQak/XSE5jnzyaqY/s400/431649_10150653381873609_737988608_9082077_1069591629_n.jpg)
Since making my mind up to train hard again towards chaining my 8b ambition (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ApHg0QoNLhFFdFV4MTllWUlFOGYwUDEtWjQwNzFNc2c#gid=0)this year, I have been focusing the priority on my elbow rehab first in combination with basic weight and fitness conditioning to get me fit enough to take a training pounding over the next 30 weeks or so.
Flexibility and lack of core fitness and strength are my obvious weaknesses as a climber and so I am focusing on these in particluar with stretching every day and working a little harder on core. I am more concerned right now with creating a flexiblity across my body first then i will build a stronger core through both training and climbing on approriately steep rock in coming weeks.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDWm1Lc3NIw/T06ox8y14wI/AAAAAAAAQXY/0Riloawwm0o/s400/65558_10150649940403609_737988608_9073115_1661580047_n.jpg)[/td][/tr]
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Most weeks are filled with easy route climbing to keep the head and fingers ticking over while I prepare the other areas and each day is filled with as much inspiration as i can un earth to drive me forward to ocho b...
I took a trip into Spain to visit a great friend and coach for a day in the Spanish Pirineos on a great canyon crag housing an awesome 7b. We used my red point strategies to help provide my friend with more structure in improving her approach to projecting and so we shaped the whole day around that single process of working for a red point instead of just trying something at your limit to see how you get on...
Prepare your day, your mind and your body then you will produce a better performance and ultimately succeed in red pointing the project at your true limit instead of some miss informed percieved limit.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uY19YLNRflk/T06nyQ49tvI/AAAAAAAAQVo/KgadaRjgRQo/s400/422208_10150649910698609_737988608_9073011_1192248889_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]http://lisiroig.blogspot.com/[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iuPIQfflBxU/T06xpQlADOI/AAAAAAAAQZQ/VD0Fuf1P83w/s400/428771_10150649904158609_737988608_9072988_1895013776_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mo0KfJXyV84/T06x3EOiD2I/AAAAAAAAQZw/jyrcL8cLkWM/s400/420436_10150649899458609_737988608_9072976_208664528_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KM5WRT64hds/T06x0-7xD8I/AAAAAAAAQZo/8gsI0VXrjnc/s400/395911_10150649900243609_737988608_9072978_1206305900_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mi amiga Sonia using ReAch red point strategy on her 7b proyecto[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-STh5K0AJKmA/T06xs7smc3I/AAAAAAAAQZY/VidvmVk-kaQ/s400/419802_10150649903203609_737988608_9072985_2030902501_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]sonia feliz en su paraíso Pirineos![/td][/tr]
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(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-umQmdOTHGqk/T1Hu3wMESdI/AAAAAAAAQaw/6Qu9LRUvmv4/s400/tabla-de-entrenamiento-transgression-por-eva-lopez.jpg)
Then it was down into Barcelona to meet the cool guys from JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-escalada/tabla-de-entrenamiento-transgression) to discuss the Eva Lopez (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/)Transgression and Progression systems to help me train to 8b. Having studied the training strategy I have worked out my plan with the system and it looks like I will opt for the following:
- A first phase of a 5 week block on Maximal Strength Development
- 2 week rest
- second phase of 8 week Strength Endurance phase
- 2 week rest
- 8 week Advanced Maximal Strength phase
- 2 week rest
- 8 week Advanced Strength Endurance phase(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ud9304758TQ/T1Hu7ULrLoI/AAAAAAAAQa4/YfQRYw-vtqc/s400/tabla-de-entrenamiento-transgression-por-eva-lopez-y-jm-climbing-2-300x225.jpg)
But before this, I prepare my body for conditioning to take on a 35 week program here in Pirineos but first hopefully off to Malta with Stevie Haston (http://www.maltaclimbingclub.com/stevie-haston-on-route-development-in-malta/) to get me climbing fit and open some new cliffs for the Malta Climbing Club (http://www.maltaclimbingclub.com/stevie-haston-on-route-development-in-malta/)...
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gwg6PpHilLU/T06pK4YyBmI/AAAAAAAAQYQ/JCApafJqjOM/s400/427457_10150651739948609_737988608_9078959_650927028_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Back over into the Pirineos de Francia[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qyMqVhJGPzo/T1EZsRuzdZI/AAAAAAAAQaE/UC7NUY2Klbs/s400/431559_10150656452753609_737988608_9089587_1092641453_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Rehab, preparations and mas estudiar[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NknpmeH_Ync/T1FtwgGx7GI/AAAAAAAAQaQ/dJn0N10mb5M/s400/429088_10150656873733609_737988608_9090890_1464950760_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Midnight runs when it's cool in the Pyrenees near Foix[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5YTOJT3DxKs/T1H0YBNFtCI/AAAAAAAAQbM/MJYAkb-iVm8/s400/P1040409b-comp-600x450.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]http://www.maltaclimbingclub.com/stevie-haston-on-route-development-in-malta/[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-7650809425654426662?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Report on MCofS Coaching Induction (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/report-on-mcofs-coaching-induction.html)
5 March 2012, 11:35 pm
Sunday the 4th March saw Scottish coaches descend on Perth High School for the first MCofS Coaches Gathering & Induction. The event was attended by coaches, who are active within the varied Scottish Youth Development scene, as well as Area Youth Coordinators. The ethos of this event was to provide an opportunity for professionals to come together and share ideas, observe coaching techniques & discuss up and coming initiatives the MCofS aim to deliver over the coming months. The gathering also served as an opportunity to introduce the current 3 tier MCofS Youth Coaching Structure [Aspirant Coach, Assistant Coach & Full Coach], outlining the job descriptions of each post & explaining the pathways [i.e. shadowing & training] in place to progress through the structure.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fDs0-zKEdXk/T11IAMcetqI/AAAAAAAAQn0/EPp0NCVjxXE/s400/2012-03-11) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fDs0-zKEdXk/T11IAMcetqI/AAAAAAAAQn0/EPp0NCVjxXE/s1600/2012-03-11)
The day kicked off with talks from;
- Tony McClelland [Head of Outdoor Education - Perth High School]. Discussing the story of climbing within the school set up. Explaining how the came about obtaining such a great climbing facility & how this has grown in to one of the most successful regional climbing development initiatives in Scotland.
- Neil McGeachy [ReAch Coaching & MCofS Scottish Team Coach]. Discussing the roles of MCofS, its coaches & setters in the development of Scottish Team members. Also discussing the MCofS Youth Development Ethos of promoting increased pathways in to the outdoors for climbers of all levels and ages. Aiming to promote varied and active life long futures within the sport for our country's young climbers.
- Neill Busby [MCofS British Team Representative]. Discussing how MCofS works to help nurture & support our country's elite young climbers. He talked about coaching support, previous & current success stories & future ambitions.
These talks provided a great over view of how healthy all levels of youth development within Scottish climbing are. They also illustrated how well these levels serve in supporting each other and provide clear logical support pathways in the climbing journey;
- Numbers are up in all Scottish competitions,
- Regional youth clubs and performance squads are popping up all over the place,
- The school climbing competitions scene is growing massively and beginning to feed the Youth Climbing Series
- Outdoor Real Rock Initiatives are being better attended than ever
- We have enjoyed an 8 year period of producing many of the UK's most successful International competitors. Currently holding 9 slots on the British Junior Climbing Squad.
This continued growth and development means more than ever we need a diverse and extensive pool of MCofS performance coaches to draw from & also require a strategy in place to begin the process of bringing through future coaches & making the whole set up more sustainable long term. This Gathering & Induction was the beginning of this process.
After the talks the coaches were given time to study the hand outs provided on 'Training guidelines for YCS Finalists'. These documents offered info on MCofS & ReAch's stance on appropriate training & injury avoidance when coaching young performance climbers. The day then progressed to a series of short coaching workshops delivered by a selection of assistant coaches & full coaches on the MCofS coaching program.
Coaching Workshops Delivered;
Pamela Miller - Coaching route reading & sequence memory
Neill Busby - Balance & body positioning on steep ground
Ian Sneddon - Variety of uses of Add on in coaching
Natalie Berry - Competition Tactics
Ross Kirkland - Activities for coaching precise footwork
Ross Hunter - Using video analysis in coaching
Neil McGeachy - Coaching momentum & advance balance techniques
The day rounded up with an opportunity for every one to have a group discussion on the role of coaching within youth development & how we can build on the success the current set up. All in all today was a great success and as a member of the MCofS coaching team for more than 12 years, it was extremely rewarding to see so many of the aspirants, assistants & coaches in attendance being young climbers who have progressed through the set up as talented climbers themselves. Thus showing the on going culture of Scottish Climbers putting something back into the development of the sport. Very exciting times lies ahead.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8361136945280602652?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coach: Fontainebleau Bouldering October 15th – 19th 2012 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/mcofs-and-reach-climbing-coaching.html)
9 March 2012, 5:27 pm
Cost £150
The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coaching are arranging a youth coaching event in Fontainebleau, one of the worlds most popularbouldering destinations. This will be from October 15th-19th(during the Scottish School Holiday) and is being organised and delivered by Neill Busby (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1mVLfhBAorldPqeaG0QGF97DZWQHoX6-pK20qgbvMDCY/edit), Mark McGowan (https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1OaEvFWPAxnzyHZ9eCUaaaysRiYfiG1U9_gHQQc8SliQ) and Gaz Vincent. (https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=58d69cf09e&view=att&th=12f6f16f606a4033&attid=0.1&disp=inline&realattid=f_gmp6ri6w0&zw)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qF3PYsxjb4Y/T1ofOrW27mI/AAAAAAAAQjk/sSWqSAPhlKE/s400/bowden+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qF3PYsxjb4Y/T1ofOrW27mI/AAAAAAAAQjk/sSWqSAPhlKE/s1600/bowden+2.jpg)
The Fontainebleau bouldering meet is beingsupported by the MCofS by providing elite coaches for the 4 days of coachingduring the 5 day event. The cost to cover coaching is £150 per child - £37.50/day.
Aims:
Our aim is to introduceparticipants to the best bouldering that Fontainebleauhas to offer. Each day our coaches will run workshops on various techniques andtactics needed to climb on the famous sandstone boulders. Our other aim is toprovide coaching and advice to parents to encourage more independence to getoutside more. We expect all the adults / parents to take an active role in theevent, coaches will help parents understand etiquette and safety issues atcrags where their children will be climbing.
Parent / CoachResponsibility:
Whilst on the meet, thecoaches are responsible for the safety of the kids (and you!) when beingcoached at the crag (or its approach). At all other times you are responsiblefor your own and your child’s safety and wellbeing, as well as their behaviour.
Booking Your Place:
If you are interested pleasesend the attached application form to MCofS either via email (to: admin@mcofs.org.uk) or by post, to bookyour place. Can you please indicate your method of payment.
Once we have the minimumnumbers required to make the event viable we shall notify you and confirm themeet will go ahead you will be able to book flights and accommodation.
Consent:
Please fill in theattached Consent Form and return by email to me. If you have already completedand sent in a MCofS Consent Form there is no need to complete another one, but pleaseindicate on the application form any changes that might be required.
Please note:- Applications must be sent back only to MCS either by email to admin@mcofs.org.uk, or by post.
- Payment for the coaching can be made by phone, PayPal or cheque to MCofS.
- Confirmation will be returned by email (or post) by Jane at MCS office.
- A Parent (and their child attending the event) must sign a MCofS consent form (please simply insert you names when replying by email and date it). A parent must take responsibility for the child(s) behaviour at all times when not climbing. The coaches are responsible for the child whilst being coached.
- If someone else is taking responsibility for your child at the event they must be indicated on the form.
- Climbers need to bring their own personal climbing equipment (rock shoes, chalk bag, harness, belay plate, rope and helmet).
- General information is contained in the attached Parental Information document.
- Finally, I draw your attention to the MCofS Code of Conduct expected at our events.
Resources:
- Events Protocol
- Coaching Events Consent Form
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-9153873094507565154?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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REAL-ROCK TRAD TRIP (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/real-rock-trad-trip.html)
12 March 2012, 8:44 am
Scotland North-West:
We will spend a week climbing sea cliffs in the north-west which may include Reiff, Rhue,Sheigra .
Mountain scrambles or multi -pitch climbs at Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor,or Cul Beag
Bouldering at Rhue, Ardmair, Reiff
the list is endless!
This course will run from mon 2nd of July until fri 6th of July.
Four days climbing ,coaching and instruction .
One day rest/bad weather day.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AOYWtL6VmEk/T1sN7nLJ2OI/AAAAAAAAQj4/JP7iUytpi2A/s400/geek+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AOYWtL6VmEk/T1sN7nLJ2OI/AAAAAAAAQj4/JP7iUytpi2A/s1600/geek+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Photo: James Dunn[/td][/tr]
[/table]
COURSE DISCRIPTION
This course will mainly focus on traditional climbing.
Gear placements
Building belays
Leading and seconding trad routes.
Manageing risk.
Onsight tactics.
Technique on rock
Route reading
Long term development pathway.
Abseiling
with additional options for scrambling, multi-pitch,bouldering,gorge walking and hill-walking.
This course will be delievered by Pamela Millar who is a Mountain Instructor ,loves climbing big remote mountain routes or multi-pitch sea cliff climbing.During the winter Pamela spends her time climbing Scottish mix and ice climbing .
Neil McGeachy - National team coach & passionate Scottish Trad Climber will be on hand to offer tip and techniques on performance on the sharp end.
9AM TILL 5PM EACH DAY .
Spaces for 8 kids (with a parent/gardian)
Price : £150 per child
Ratio 1:4
Equipment required.... harness, rock shoes, chalk, helmet, waterproofs(jacket +trousers), walking boots or shoes,warm clothes ,sun tan lotion, midge repellent.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1375303179968423055?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Why ReAch?...Malta (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/why-reachmalta.html)
12 March 2012, 12:00 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YOnerdsGsNc/T1ZSE6TBuPI/AAAAAAAAQfA/db5gHXS6Mrc/s400/425886_10150664477458609_737988608_9117452_1229181749_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YOnerdsGsNc/T1ZSE6TBuPI/AAAAAAAAQfA/db5gHXS6Mrc/s1600/425886_10150664477458609_737988608_9117452_1229181749_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Malta new route gear[/td][/tr]
[/table]
When I first came up with the idea of ReAch Climbing Coach, I was sure of one thing... I knew that I knew NOTHING!
...and from there, I have been training, learning, coaching, researching, training, coaching, learning and of course climbing!
It's easy to get lost in your own self and not maintain a life long learning philosophy which, for me, is the most important part of coaching. I reckon it will take me another 2 years before I feel qualified in myself to deliver the most exceptional coaching experience and that is what I search for...
For me, ReAch is not a brand, a company but a PHILOSOPHY... an adventure for the coaches and the lucky members of 'fight club' searching for more from themselves, taking inspiration from others, working hard with the training tools made available, learning to train harder on their own, creating an online record that becomes a map to success and learning to be brave and get more from themselves... being the best YOU can be and not accepting compromise in your life!
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3CAXK5hgUos/S8bvp-UBaRI/AAAAAAAACvM/JUohSf7qGjI/s400/Flat+Street+119.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3CAXK5hgUos/S8bvp-UBaRI/AAAAAAAACvM/JUohSf7qGjI/s1600/Flat+Street+119.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Working with what you have got and staying focused...[/td][/tr]
[/table] When I trained for 8a in 6 months in 2010 I was restricted by my equipment and capacity to upgrade, but I can tell you with 100% honesty that when my old boots wore out that I was prepared to train harder for the 8a so that I could take more weight on my fingers and tape my shoes with gaffa tape if i had to to send the project. This is just about being focused... knowing you can and will do it...
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7zS4RvCv5dk/S9nmqISg_bI/AAAAAAAADF8/2deum057K18/s400/craigmarky.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7zS4RvCv5dk/S9nmqISg_bI/AAAAAAAADF8/2deum057K18/s1600/craigmarky.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]taking time out for solitude and reflection and some soft rock loving[/td][/tr]
[/table] Finding a crag or a place that is just your little space where when times get hard and the training seems difficult, then you can go there and chill right out... important... find your place.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IsiVtCbfBiE/TAuI31pdcvI/AAAAAAAAD6w/BbGxu8iBNbA/s400/IMG00830-20100604-1251.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IsiVtCbfBiE/TAuI31pdcvI/AAAAAAAAD6w/BbGxu8iBNbA/s1600/IMG00830-20100604-1251.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Setting targets[/td][/tr]
[/table] Setting simple achievable, variable goals.. a must. simple!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2iNT-0swlhs/TBTAo901nhI/AAAAAAAAEKs/W3GaWk7KeCQ/s400/IMG01044-20100612-1453.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2iNT-0swlhs/TBTAo901nhI/AAAAAAAAEKs/W3GaWk7KeCQ/s1600/IMG01044-20100612-1453.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]take inspiration from others... Bund Ninja 3 on his
(8c+) Blood Diamond before he got 'Hungry'![/td][/tr]
[/table] taking inspiration from others. I was lucky enough to meet Malcolm S and others who had the same work ethic and appreciation of training as me (though Malcolm is world class!). Taking inspiration is a must, without that you wont push through and get more from yourself like what you see in others.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMkC5d8ghZw/TEbRnzuC4sI/AAAAAAAAEyM/aoS0HH7pi1o/s400/34873_431611873608_737988608_4520743_3659545_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMkC5d8ghZw/TEbRnzuC4sI/AAAAAAAAEyM/aoS0HH7pi1o/s1600/34873_431611873608_737988608_4520743_3659545_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]1980's training logbook[/td][/tr]
[/table]Being consistant is everything.. My old training logs are not relevant in the modern context but they were the inspiration that reminded me of how consitant I was in my training and focus for being as good in climbing as I could....Consistancy
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-btEqTTXNlYA/TVFjCi1LXnI/AAAAAAAAJ6s/6NKM7nHGYA0/s400/%253D%253Futf-8%253FB%253FSU1HMDA1OTAtMjAxMTAyMDYtMTIzMS5qcGc%253D%253F%253D-701074) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-btEqTTXNlYA/TVFjCi1LXnI/AAAAAAAAJ6s/6NKM7nHGYA0/s1600/%253D%253Futf-8%253FB%253FSU1HMDA1OTAtMjAxMTAyMDYtMTIzMS5qcGc%253D%253F%253D-701074)[/td][/tr][tr][td]working on your own ...rope solo at Dunkeld[/td][/tr]
[/table]Sometimes, I wanted to climb and work a route when no one was available or the weather wasn't the best... being project minded allows one to put the real effort into getting soemthing done, because focus is there every day when i looked at my online program.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tQopnfkcpa0/TpyDGqcSkKI/AAAAAAAAO_I/7BR7hdAvLdM/s400/IMG00353_2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tQopnfkcpa0/TpyDGqcSkKI/AAAAAAAAO_I/7BR7hdAvLdM/s1600/IMG00353_2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Walking into the lions den knowing you cant win this time...BLCC's 2011[/td][/tr]
[/table] This is the most important element for me, being brave and trying knowing you might fail this time....
--------------------------
Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details of our unique Dual Factor online programs, 1:1 training contracts and coaching sessions.
Mark will be available for coaching sessions on Malta from 14th to 31st March.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3K_ksgWcNs/T1e4KqX20MI/AAAAAAAAQgE/QDJJrdfKGj8/s400/395820_10150488060283609_737988608_8546866_1498688895_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3K_ksgWcNs/T1e4KqX20MI/AAAAAAAAQgE/QDJJrdfKGj8/s1600/395820_10150488060283609_737988608_8546866_1498688895_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-5560277435881412606?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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March Madness at the TCA Glasgow ...Sunday the 18th... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/march-madness-at-tca-glasgow-sunday.html)
16 March 2012, 3:48 pm
Some of you may have caught wind via UKClimbing.com (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=496282) or the entry on our events page (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/events/) that on March the 18th TCA Glasgow are having a big open day. This is an amazing opportunity to try TCA free of charge. Not only that but there will be a whole host of other tempting reasons to come and sample the wall that has brought a real buzz to the Scottish climbing scene. - Free Technique and Training advice from Gaz Parry (http://www.gazparryclimbing.com/p/coaching.html) and Alan Cassidy (http://alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/)
- Free to enter mini competitions for beginners, intermediates and experts with lots of prizes including Bristol's legendary Grope the Slope contest!
- Raffle prizes
- 30% off a range of Moon (http://www.moonclimbing.com/) clothing
- 15% off in the TCA Shop generally
- Ellis Brighams (http://www.ellis-brigham.com/braehead-glasgow2.htm) sale stand
This is a fantastic opportunity to find out what TCA is all about, learn how bouldering can help improve your traditional route and sport climbing abilities, pick up some great value equipment and who knows you may even walk away with a prize.You don’t need to bring your wallet but don’t forget we’ll also be selling great coffee, perfect pizzas and awesome cakes! If you aren’t already a member we’ll still need you to sign one of our membership forms and to comply with our terms and conditions. You can only do this if you’re an experienced, competent climber, who can operate safely in a climbing wall. If you want to sign children in, we’ll require you to become a paid up member first (£10) but we won’t charge you or the children the entry fee. More info about the day will be released on our blog and Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/TCAGlasgow) pages over the coming days. Stay tuned!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8615565429249416356?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Having your period! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/having-your-period.html)
21 March 2012, 7:00 pm
Periodization or working to a 'peak' is something that most climbers
who maybe aren't progressing as well as they would like, tend not to
engage properly in.Its a strategic approach and therefore tactics and results aren't
always obvious nor instant.It is not really about the chosen moment or exact timing of the 'peak'
that makes the big difference in performance. It's obviously the
training that has gone before and wither one has sacraficed weekly,
monthly or quarterly performance for the sake of THE chosen peak
period.Training over the top of everything (even other training - Dual Factor
Theory) is a tough environment to stay in for a substantial time. 1
month/ 30 days, 3 months/90 days, 6 months/180 days.Every day some part of your body is being worked while other parts are
in pain recovering. Its hard and that's why few really do it.Training in a periodized environment is just training in a focused way
that maximises the time , to get the biggest benefits from the
application of processes that are in a particular order culminating in
a volume taper against an increase in intensity and finally a peak.Eg for me the order is:1. Strength training
2. Power
3. Power EnduranceBut it's this stuff which I think builds the improvement through focus
and consistancy and develops increased performance.Others may mix and intertwine their strength with power with PE but I
mostly prefer to isolate.Rest and recovery is obviously a key part of a strategic training
environment and is one of the hardest parts to manage due to the urge
to keep training instead of recovering to a physical peak state...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2374921842738481520?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Chaining 8b : Staying on the path... on Gozo Island (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/04/chaining-8b-staying-on-path-on-gozo.html)
2 April 2012, 10:13 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H6UEVThogVg/T3ecObsm5QI/AAAAAAAAQvU/yAFjvWJjtIw/s400/292205_10150715370633609_737988608_9286962_370617495_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H6UEVThogVg/T3ecObsm5QI/AAAAAAAAQvU/yAFjvWJjtIw/s1600/292205_10150715370633609_737988608_9286962_370617495_n.jpg)
Inspiration is what I sought out in Gozo Island and that is what I have come back to the Pirineos with... Inspired by Stevie Haston (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/03/resurrection-and-light-by-stevie.html), his island and his dedication to his sport and himself as an elite athlete in climbing.
Stevie invited me over to Gozo along with Simon Alden of the Malta Climbing Club to assist in the opening of a new cliff (The Under World) and for some more basic bolting on other great cliffs to try and create more climbing for all to enjoy on the beautiful island of Gozo next to Malta.
View (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=gozo&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=34.808514,86.572266&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Gozo&t=m&z=12&iwloc=A)
When I left we had bolted 15 pitches across the island ranging from 5+ to potentially 8b+ or harder (depending on the outcome). We have bolted possibly the biggest roof climb in the world and Stevie is now in training to get his endurance levels up to speed to cope with routes gigantic proportions... I haven't seen anything like this in my life and when he completes it, I am sure it will end up as a historic piece of climbing in keeping with Stevie's taste for the best and biggest of climbs on a world stage.
We finished the trip with a short film for the Malta Tourist Association by Bryan Azzopardy of us climbing a beautiful piece of rock which was possibly one of the best climbs I have done...my favorite.. the arete.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NLCl415nf2c/T3ecQSkbdpI/AAAAAAAAQwE/mogPS61K-i4/s400/420047_10150679547573609_737988608_9165231_1328395507_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NLCl415nf2c/T3ecQSkbdpI/AAAAAAAAQwE/mogPS61K-i4/s1600/420047_10150679547573609_737988608_9165231_1328395507_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R8HH32hKGuE/T3ecQtRwoCI/AAAAAAAAQwM/3BvtxwXUv4w/s400/421089_10150679529358609_737988608_9165156_1529657256_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-R8HH32hKGuE/T3ecQtRwoCI/AAAAAAAAQwM/3BvtxwXUv4w/s1600/421089_10150679529358609_737988608_9165156_1529657256_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajFWRoOCTE8/T3ecRjGyj5I/AAAAAAAAQwc/byAuwH5c44s/s400/425226_10150681662523609_737988608_9170245_1522432740_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ajFWRoOCTE8/T3ecRjGyj5I/AAAAAAAAQwc/byAuwH5c44s/s1600/425226_10150681662523609_737988608_9170245_1522432740_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sdIXJu2MQw0/T3ecTQfRQ_I/AAAAAAAAQw8/Xzn5FYljaKQ/s400/483186_10150690249558609_737988608_9199229_650894347_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sdIXJu2MQw0/T3ecTQfRQ_I/AAAAAAAAQw8/Xzn5FYljaKQ/s1600/483186_10150690249558609_737988608_9199229_650894347_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Equipping the biggest Roof in the world (Stevie's Roof!)[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ByjFvcQlpks/T3ecRhWy1GI/AAAAAAAAQwg/rp7Uf1vPdB4/s400/427159_10150679535593609_737988608_9165173_181400553_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ByjFvcQlpks/T3ecRhWy1GI/AAAAAAAAQwg/rp7Uf1vPdB4/s1600/427159_10150679535593609_737988608_9165173_181400553_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hiA4jDifN6o/T3ecVboiVrI/AAAAAAAAQxs/mQ2kneQgm68/s400/529986_10150715374268609_737988608_9286975_1489613279_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hiA4jDifN6o/T3ecVboiVrI/AAAAAAAAQxs/mQ2kneQgm68/s1600/529986_10150715374268609_737988608_9286975_1489613279_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-skzDJ_-IjAk/T3ecXOpC51I/AAAAAAAAQyM/cWniGxMMuPU/s400/542236_10150713603113609_737988608_9282239_1213151224_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-skzDJ_-IjAk/T3ecXOpC51I/AAAAAAAAQyM/cWniGxMMuPU/s1600/542236_10150713603113609_737988608_9282239_1213151224_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]FA Super Furry Animals[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqdmE3iGLCg/T3ecY4gKCnI/AAAAAAAAQyw/HmYI32AsFAw/s400/556252_10150715372213609_737988608_9286969_1968083510_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqdmE3iGLCg/T3ecY4gKCnI/AAAAAAAAQyw/HmYI32AsFAw/s1600/556252_10150715372213609_737988608_9286969_1968083510_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Simon giving perspective to a new cliff that is next for development[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W4OctMROdS0/T3oDPOJ254I/AAAAAAAAQ54/3H4OKXA1N-A/s400/375165_10150708815138609_737988608_9266325_1174288915_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W4OctMROdS0/T3oDPOJ254I/AAAAAAAAQ54/3H4OKXA1N-A/s1600/375165_10150708815138609_737988608_9266325_1174288915_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bus Stop training![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tg5Bu04qXIM/T3oDUvaXZbI/AAAAAAAAQ54/I0OjsvFWeko/s400/429887_10150683647663609_737988608_9175716_1015258907_n.jpg) (http://www.blogger.com/goog_1104640176)[/td][/tr][tr][td]JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/)[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FmAWr9qXRcg/T3oDS56AwTI/AAAAAAAAQ54/6IDD5jngdH0/s400/422163_10150681679643609_737988608_9170334_582809993_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FmAWr9qXRcg/T3oDS56AwTI/AAAAAAAAQ54/6IDD5jngdH0/s1600/422163_10150681679643609_737988608_9170334_582809993_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ndw1kCd_gXY/T3oDXUbdqmI/AAAAAAAAQ54/gQ6zzzH--gI/s400/425968_10150688018478609_737988608_9188769_871047974_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ndw1kCd_gXY/T3oDXUbdqmI/AAAAAAAAQ54/gQ6zzzH--gI/s1600/425968_10150688018478609_737988608_9188769_871047974_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XAUY6gJavQw/T3oDbvz0l-I/AAAAAAAAQ54/15k-2p8GaCg/s400/528033_10150698676958609_737988608_9230405_2082427581_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XAUY6gJavQw/T3oDbvz0l-I/AAAAAAAAQ54/15k-2p8GaCg/s1600/528033_10150698676958609_737988608_9230405_2082427581_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sPx3tv4vi64/T3oDh6NXpsI/AAAAAAAAQ54/sdqpFnZ5Rq0/s400/544654_10150711162878609_737988608_9275419_1817380647_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sPx3tv4vi64/T3oDh6NXpsI/AAAAAAAAQ54/sdqpFnZ5Rq0/s1600/544654_10150711162878609_737988608_9275419_1817380647_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXSM0lHU86k/T3oDjVSTxGI/AAAAAAAAQ54/CIrVGxJ8oRw/s400/546034_10150706938628609_737988608_9260587_1624276036_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rXSM0lHU86k/T3oDjVSTxGI/AAAAAAAAQ54/CIrVGxJ8oRw/s1600/546034_10150706938628609_737988608_9260587_1624276036_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tkfYaIpfQBs/T3oDsAMjIII/AAAAAAAAQ54/MT4n65u1R4s/s400/Gift.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tkfYaIpfQBs/T3oDsAMjIII/AAAAAAAAQ54/MT4n65u1R4s/s1600/Gift.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]FA of The Gift of Small Things
Photo: Simon Alden[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rwtG6-SQAcg/T3oNdSncMYI/AAAAAAAAQ6s/VrveYD3qfU4/s400/558456_10150789409896115_515641114_11434283_1146294423_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rwtG6-SQAcg/T3oNdSncMYI/AAAAAAAAQ6s/VrveYD3qfU4/s1600/558456_10150789409896115_515641114_11434283_1146294423_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Hatson & Mark McGowan - Gozo
Screen Grabs from video footage by Bryan Azzopardy.
Climbing Promo Production for the MTA [/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xjWqf0aM91E/T3oNTfNsDTI/AAAAAAAAQ68/H24Euq_vRuc/s400/560316_10150718215933609_737988608_9295881_398984928_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xjWqf0aM91E/T3oNTfNsDTI/AAAAAAAAQ68/H24Euq_vRuc/s1600/560316_10150718215933609_737988608_9295881_398984928_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan - Gozo
Screen Grabs from video footage by Bryan Azzopardy.
Climbing Promo Production for the MTA [/td][/tr]
[/table]Transition to Transgression:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eUNxl2K264I/T1UIzXk6f7I/AAAAAAAAQc8/ucDzo3AHpPI/s400/425028_10150661768063609_737988608_9109034_1517332084_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YV7A6ws1rdU/T3ecPgZXMfI/AAAAAAAAQvw/pFNH-y9-5lo/s400/383516_10150691619048609_737988608_9204488_684435914_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YV7A6ws1rdU/T3ecPgZXMfI/AAAAAAAAQvw/pFNH-y9-5lo/s1600/383516_10150691619048609_737988608_9204488_684435914_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Time for some Transgression[/td][/tr]
[/table]
The transition from conditioning on the road in the Pirineos to climbing on moderately easy routes on Gozo has hopefully prepared my capacity to train my fingers now on the Eva Lopez Transgression (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)system to take my finger strength and finger power endurance up to where they need to be for 8b... I have bolted it up to the beam in the barn and so..,we begin.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6547796859079901662?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Eva Lopez Finger Boards & JM Climbing holds coming to UK market (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/04/eva-lopez-finger-boards-jm-climbing.html)
4 April 2012, 2:06 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--xHzmtBGBuM/T1m_j5M2JUI/AAAAAAAAQi4/1S5c7frFMwA/s640/ANUNCIO+TRANSGRESSION+2-+103x295.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--xHzmtBGBuM/T1m_j5M2JUI/AAAAAAAAQi4/1S5c7frFMwA/s1600/ANUNCIO+TRANSGRESSION+2-+103x295.jpg)
Whilst based in the Spanish and French border of the Pyrenees, our ReAch coach Mark McGowan has also been working in his capacity as a consultant with the innovative manufacturer of Eva Lopez (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.fr/) new Finger board systems: Progression & Transgression which is produced by JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/) in Barcelona. The combination of the Eva Lopez 6 year PHD study and JMClimbing's manufacturing experience have produced a training system and finger board concept that is so innovative and so has been produced under copyright.
Mark is combining his own vision of colaborating ReAch Climbing Coach with a hold manufactrer to take bespoke climbing coaching to a new level and JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/) have what it takes...
"As well as having Eva Lopez (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.fr/) on as a researcher and consultant to their company, JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/) have developed the highest quality of training holds that I have seen, where the core material is less succeptable to humidity : This is key in a training environment where it is a huge problem for skin which in turn produces an un-neccessary compromise to a training session.
My vision for ReAch Climbing Coach goes far beyond what people are experiencing today in the UK in a climbing coached environment and it is great that they are coming over to the UK and I am delighted to help that process."
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWk73GpYUVo/T3ecUvUibEI/AAAAAAAAQxY/q3JmuSHR3AM/s400/485796_10150694422363609_737988608_9216881_477926388_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OWk73GpYUVo/T3ecUvUibEI/AAAAAAAAQxY/q3JmuSHR3AM/s1600/485796_10150694422363609_737988608_9216881_477926388_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan in Island of Gozo with Stevie Haston[/td][/tr]
[/table]
JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/contacto-rocodromo-jm-climbing-surfaces)have a whole range of innovative climbing products and are currently looking for UK sales agents to partner with for May 2012 onwards. If you are in the trade with a proven client relationship with major UK specialist retailers then please contact in the first instance Mark at markmcgowan01@gmail.com
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yg86XKI2HGI/T3xLZKmAeCI/AAAAAAAAQ8Q/H5FcDbgTGEk/s400/timthumb+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yg86XKI2HGI/T3xLZKmAeCI/AAAAAAAAQ8Q/H5FcDbgTGEk/s1600/timthumb+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJkSuasiB_w/T3xLawJcj0I/AAAAAAAAQ8Y/I06VWmMCt4Q/s320/timthumb.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KJkSuasiB_w/T3xLawJcj0I/AAAAAAAAQ8Y/I06VWmMCt4Q/s1600/timthumb.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P6sicp5sgJ8/T3xLtRK2ayI/AAAAAAAAQ8w/lC1XpQgyIp0/s400/485321_332182213496183_122550151126058_824550_1326497369_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P6sicp5sgJ8/T3xLtRK2ayI/AAAAAAAAQ8w/lC1XpQgyIp0/s1600/485321_332182213496183_122550151126058_824550_1326497369_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-5374774253619649477?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Going for double figures...The big 10! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/04/going-for-double-figuresthe-big-10.html)
14 April 2012, 6:17 am
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jr356d483Zk/T4R0Yv4IswI/AAAAAAAARC0/IaR636sf2lk/s400/574455_10150736954508609_737988608_9364354_45875153_n.jpg) |
| Over the Pyrenees down into Spain |
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4xoy_2pccp0/T4R0XakZgUI/AAAAAAAARC0/LNTVIuECA8o/s400/550321_10150736953253609_737988608_9364350_1142401088_n.jpg) |
| The route from Pyrenees to Siurana |
When I arrived from over the Pyrenees at our annual Siurana ReAch Coaching Week I wasn't really perpared for how the week would end.
My team of Ninjas was Ben, Loui and Jamie, all from different parts of Scotland (Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Oban) and all of differing ages from 9 upwards.
The coaching began with the usual process of getting the kids to relax and get used to me and each other whilst the parents watched in trepidation making sure their little ones were in 'good' (or at worst 'safe' hands!).
Eventually climbing standards, individual charactoristics and strengths and weaknesses began to emerge. Eventually some scope for coaching emerged and eventually an increase in personal bests and celebrations of successes began to emerge with goals being met and surpassed by some.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--wDwSyJSrL8/T4kSXaaGIaI/AAAAAAAARKA/EU1WMOHaKzk/s400/582107_10150746531538609_737988608_9394727_9551284_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--wDwSyJSrL8/T4kSXaaGIaI/AAAAAAAARKA/EU1WMOHaKzk/s1600/582107_10150746531538609_737988608_9394727_9551284_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mandy and son Jamie[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3EoaMhGt_h8/T4kSWq0qFpI/AAAAAAAARKA/o6z70xXYLIY/s400/580841_10150746530328609_737988608_9394721_637552017_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3EoaMhGt_h8/T4kSWq0qFpI/AAAAAAAARKA/o6z70xXYLIY/s1600/580841_10150746530328609_737988608_9394721_637552017_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Loui and Jamie enjoying their leading...[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irP4uCJNPl4/T4kRxV1bTMI/AAAAAAAARIU/5Yu_bws4uyo/s400/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Ben & Mark show![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EUuujf3Ii-Y/T4blijQrPkI/AAAAAAAARDw/0oEIyjf5xzg/s400/P1000734.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td]
But today Saturday (sabado) our final day will be renamed to 'Loui-day' after our team ninja Loui from Edinburgh who's selfless, quiet persistence saw him find the confidence to climb better and bring smiles to his mates the other ninjas who's week had already been made by their worthy attack on their big 7a.
Young Jamie from Oban has showed great inteligence in his climbing and this is reflected through his ability to read the moves quickly and climb at a pace that impressed me and the other Ninjas.
However, young Ben from Aberdeen (aged 9) really impressed me with his unwavering determinationation to keep trying and each time his father (Gus) and I suggested he might need to consider coming down, he just downright refused to give up.
An absolute inspiration to me and when I asked Ben what age he was, he told me: " I am only 9.., but I am shooting for double figures soon.., soon I will be 10.., the BIG time!"
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I72kyfj6YxE/T4kSS8ibTJI/AAAAAAAARKA/8ZhIO3nJh60/s400/542179_10150743654953609_737988608_9386505_585555964_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I72kyfj6YxE/T4kSS8ibTJI/AAAAAAAARKA/8ZhIO3nJh60/s1600/542179_10150743654953609_737988608_9386505_585555964_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]"Going for double figures...The BIG 10!"[/td][/tr]
[/table](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2552965591971453960?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Entrenamiento ahora para mi 8b (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/04/entrenamiento-ahora-para-mi-8b.html)
21 April 2012, 9:55 am
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u9mzeLkAML0/T5KABJ7tu-I/AAAAAAAARVQ/xBqychH1bCM/s400/526672_10150769314473609_737988608_9447531_1379744247_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u9mzeLkAML0/T5KABJ7tu-I/AAAAAAAARVQ/xBqychH1bCM/s1600/526672_10150769314473609_737988608_9447531_1379744247_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]beginning of finger strength training again[/td][/tr]
[/table]After completing my 1st Malta bolting rock trip with Stevie Haston (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/) and our annual ReAch/MCofS (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.fr/2012/04/going-for-double-figuresthe-big-10.html)coaching week in Siurana in Spain, I am back in the Pyrenees and starting to train again in a structured way with the new Transgression (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)system.
For my long term project of a route called Metis (8b) at Genat here in the Pyrenees I am just about ready to start opening the page on this and am really exited about the journey. It is not an easy 8b and in fact I haven't found any of the routes here easy, so I am certainly going to get my moneys worth from this proyecto. I Don't expect to be able to do the moves on the first time b2b but hopefully after a few sessions, the sequences will open up and later small links will quickly emerge. It's 30m, so, it will require a lot of mental endurance and time as I am not yet 8b fit.
View Larger Map (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en&geocode=&q=G%C3%A9nat,+Midi-Pyr%C3%A9n%C3%A9es,+France&aq=0&oq=genat,+midi&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=34.808514,86.572266&t=m&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=G%C3%A9nat,+Ari%C3%A8ge,+Midi-Pyr%C3%A9n%C3%A9es,+France&z=9&iwloc=A)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N852lv03KRI/T1ZSSskhulI/AAAAAAAAQfM/O58UQU5LT9k/s400/419432_10150662423068609_737988608_9111218_1515143201_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N852lv03KRI/T1ZSSskhulI/AAAAAAAAQfM/O58UQU5LT9k/s1600/419432_10150662423068609_737988608_9111218_1515143201_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Genat[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wyAnN1tkHNo/T5AS28MyUII/AAAAAAAARSM/kMrRG25BKwQ/s400/429382_10150641503638609_737988608_9037102_834052713_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wyAnN1tkHNo/T5AS28MyUII/AAAAAAAARSM/kMrRG25BKwQ/s1600/429382_10150641503638609_737988608_9037102_834052713_n.jpg)
Had some good days on the Pyrenees rock with some old skool legends such as Craig Smith and I always take inspiration from guys like that. It's what's in their head that makes them great climbers, and that's what you see when your out with them. Always giving harder routes a go without too much questioning or ego. The truly great climbers are like that (I have found).
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ojZC04bIVM/T38pil_w_zI/AAAAAAAAQ90/FJfKqwS_cUM/s400/563286_10150724097968609_737988608_9318392_579601199_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7ojZC04bIVM/T38pil_w_zI/AAAAAAAAQ90/FJfKqwS_cUM/s1600/563286_10150724097968609_737988608_9318392_579601199_n+%25281%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lob sessions with DJ Smith[/td][/tr]
[/table]My friends at TCA (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/) in Glasgow are sending over some small campus rungs (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/EdTo441O1RC2IU0ikrD__9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink) that I use on a board to develop a final phase of higher contact strength - so the baron is looking like a big torture chamber with finger boards, weights and a woody waiting for the same treatment I gave Garths in Scotland when preparing for 6 weeks running into the BLCC's (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/VoTcWgM7CtYXLY2CoY9eitMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink) in October last year.
The answer for me in training is to maximize the time training, the intensity of the output and the recovery work and life planning that makes the bigger projects come true in your life... I can tell you today, that I am a little too heavy, too weak and a little afraid of failure for this 8b and my first few tries will be very messy and emotionally hard, but I can also tell you this now...it's definitely going to be mine! ALL MINE!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IKQKr2SJbTE/T46XrTtcIoI/AAAAAAAARO0/9mL7Hfud9m8/s400/546296_10150757126573609_737988608_9432161_567399194_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IKQKr2SJbTE/T46XrTtcIoI/AAAAAAAARO0/9mL7Hfud9m8/s1600/546296_10150757126573609_737988608_9432161_567399194_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2770668171448429726?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Ariege 8b Project... getting my ass handed to me... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/05/ariege-8b-project-getting-my-ass-handed.html)
15 May 2012, 8:50 pm
I've been on the route a few more times now with short morning sessions spread over weeks with some great life of the Pirineos thrown in between.
Went with steel fingers into Spain for some climbing with an accidental near onsight of an awesome 7c then a quick b2b on an 8a+ after a 7b pump from hell at Collegats to see how it compared to my Genat project. Felt two full grades easier, so I'm happy that this project will take me some time and get me closer to 8c which is where I want to be next year.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYAS_H_M0Zc/T7KxADXeX_I/AAAAAAAARko/WzODGIX2oTw/s400/149395_10150873484678609_737988608_9584378_1409033787_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E1ycCXDRekw/T7KxiPO7nmI/AAAAAAAARoY/oXtnqPBpPXE/s400/389621_10150873481628609_737988608_9584372_816910920_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MtkYF-R_jww/T7KxshogsBI/AAAAAAAARps/Cg-xIu48_iY/s400/399093_10150873462558609_737988608_9584290_1771788124_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y5n5PcYcGeM/T7KyVOqCzDI/AAAAAAAARt8/bEZVrS66Ynk/s400/536851_10150873480048609_737988608_9584367_1590551581_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PZoFO4i3Sro/T7KzKRux3hI/AAAAAAAARzs/y5y-1QCOJUY/s400/560647_10150873481298609_737988608_9584371_413522839_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qeWwbxxWISg/T7KzQAN1lLI/AAAAAAAAR0U/3rh9e92poYU/s400/561348_10150873461803609_737988608_9584288_580745837_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw6vnB6Au6c/T7K7_yE4d2I/AAAAAAAAR5k/wP9lWY8FQ2M/s400/575287_10150857140438609_737988608_9563975_132406055_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8hAKJlRD9fE/T7Kz4DwqlAI/AAAAAAAAR4s/movp3Vc9FUc/s400/578256_10150890434258609_737988608_9612183_1573993626_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dopo7S0aA6U/T7K9hWZ2XvI/AAAAAAAAR58/PsGbYOZZnf4/s400/148789_10150884183158609_737988608_9596338_372307673_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_uCxS7-E4bI/T7K9plZGz8I/AAAAAAAAR6Y/ngAyU1KaM_s/s400/561348_10150873461803609_737988608_9584288_580745837_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gqtaEXL2E9w/T7K9xzdr-eI/AAAAAAAAR64/6YPKiTHl0zM/s400/303360_10150857141723609_737988608_9563982_1919693544_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a77smT8G6iE/T7K93IJAgLI/AAAAAAAAR7I/hzgjqPYxxEA/s400/564202_10150857131758609_737988608_9563948_844327393_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9d9KOhjrcHc/T7K98VZp2kI/AAAAAAAAR7Y/jNOEIB7TryE/s400/385741_10150857139333609_737988608_9563970_1408620645_n.jpg)
The project still seems miles away but slowly through short objective focused morning sessions, I am slowly tidying up moves and clips and inching things in the right direction. It feels like a crucial time for me now where I have had my 5th short session with seemingly no progress from 4th to 5th. But I know I must keep turning up with a
small plan each time and slowly but surely it will begin to take shape and become 4 links, 3 links, 2 links and finally chaining my first 8b. Plenty of time for here, as "time is not money for us, just time"...
The Ugly Twat (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/) returns from Gozo Island in next few days, so no doubt he will frighten me into getting things the way they need to be.
Got some holds from JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/)to simulate some key sequences on the board at steel finger's barn to help hone some specific moves and get back on Transgression (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.fr/) board now that I'm here for a while. Working
harder on flexibility and learning to use my feet and legs on rock properly after 15 years!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-COZ6cQt59cM/T5vHNEgvaGI/AAAAAAAARbU/N2HAVv9Tj08/s400/562549_10150788862428609_737988608_9501727_1349262816_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-COZ6cQt59cM/T5vHNEgvaGI/AAAAAAAARbU/N2HAVv9Tj08/s1600/562549_10150788862428609_737988608_9501727_1349262816_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6447311026399530397?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Sabart with Satin! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/05/sabart-with-satin.html)
20 May 2012, 3:28 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S79M8tR8j0o/T7jHqzVu4CI/AAAAAAAAR-U/JdKK0I719Vg/s400/546067_10150910290633609_737988608_9667402_274833662_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Satin's kind donation for my lessons in 'heels and toe hooks' at Sabart [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s400/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s1600/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Satin (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/05/paradise-regained-by-stevie-dante.html)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Just had my first lesson in technical roof climbing with my Satanic Coach (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/05/paradise-regained-by-stevie-dante.html) on a superb 8a classic at the Grotte de Sabart (http://cafma.free.fr/sabart/porche_gauche/gauche1.htm) in the Ariege.
This is something I have been terrible at as my background was very much fingery wall climbing with big run-outs onsight and never really found myself on such ground until yesterday. I got my obligatory flash attempt out the way after Satin showed me his sequence and managed to get where most mortals come off in a mix of core fatigue and general confusion. This place is awesome and these routes are so technical where you are climbing feet forward for about 40% of the time,.. if your not then you are probably doing it wrong!
[tr][td]
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9s1sqz-gjg/T7jH2mpPBeI/AAAAAAAAR-0/_q6LeiyTIJ0/s400/538952_10150910285943609_737988608_9667392_914802822_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9s1sqz-gjg/T7jH2mpPBeI/AAAAAAAAR-0/_q6LeiyTIJ0/s1600/538952_10150910285943609_737988608_9667392_914802822_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hastons at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2wdqfgWto4/T7jH5JU1vhI/AAAAAAAAR_E/kmCS4-ev1Lo/s400/556854_10150910283663609_737988608_9667389_1567995383_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2wdqfgWto4/T7jH5JU1vhI/AAAAAAAAR_E/kmCS4-ev1Lo/s1600/556854_10150910283663609_737988608_9667389_1567995383_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence Gouault Haston training at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9m-dADTg7Ms/T7jIAeCltYI/AAAAAAAAR_s/-waSnVqgYa0/s400/540657_10150910278513609_737988608_9667375_704227308_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9m-dADTg7Ms/T7jIAeCltYI/AAAAAAAAR_s/-waSnVqgYa0/s1600/540657_10150910278513609_737988608_9667375_704227308_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Q5XtgBQFnQ/T7jH_BZcukI/AAAAAAAAR_g/8hI_cPpW-Ss/s400/306107_10150910279113609_737988608_9667377_600257627_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Q5XtgBQFnQ/T7jH_BZcukI/AAAAAAAAR_g/8hI_cPpW-Ss/s1600/306107_10150910279113609_737988608_9667377_600257627_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJCQMk8zvAY/T7jH-Gb2Q0I/AAAAAAAAR_c/riA_0F5iJ48/s400/547516_10150910281323609_1541862045_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJCQMk8zvAY/T7jH-Gb2Q0I/AAAAAAAAR_c/riA_0F5iJ48/s1600/547516_10150910281323609_1541862045_n.jpg)
After my go the other Haston (the nice one!) showed me her sequence and then I watched Satin on his new project (9?) which looked so futuristic. A great day and a place where i am begining all over again in climbing.
This was after a day on Metis (8b+) at Genat where I managed to apply some of the French (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-TeTejh1ebs) beta to my sequence and hopefully helped a fine young local by assisting/coaching him up a route that one day I am sure he will send like a dream...
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mj4X-Jw54AI/T7jIBjIaJcI/AAAAAAAAR_0/jeumAx9n_M0/s400/480228_10150910272943609_737988608_9667363_1396890434_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mj4X-Jw54AI/T7jIBjIaJcI/AAAAAAAAR_0/jeumAx9n_M0/s1600/480228_10150910272943609_737988608_9667363_1396890434_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker at Genat (7c+)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6807829491239005910?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Catching the train... The motivation train. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/05/catching-train-motivation-train.html)
27 May 2012, 7:43 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OSk7akLQxqQ/T8HWzNJgiHI/AAAAAAAASJ8/pnvEowEJFOs/s400/580090_10150929820198609_737988608_9726577_193387960_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OSk7akLQxqQ/T8HWzNJgiHI/AAAAAAAASJ8/pnvEowEJFOs/s1600/580090_10150929820198609_737988608_9726577_193387960_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jJxezanJF4Y/T7jIEoL8zcI/AAAAAAAASAE/dyI3c2CGABU/s400/542040_10150910266093609_737988608_9667354_1443680259_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jJxezanJF4Y/T7jIEoL8zcI/AAAAAAAASAE/dyI3c2CGABU/s1600/542040_10150910266093609_737988608_9667354_1443680259_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s400/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s1600/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg)
Watching my friend Ruth find climbing again is great for me as a coach and a climber. As the first British female climber to climb 8b, she is now running a Gite in the Pyrenees (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858), a mother to two great young boys, a stunt woman for Hollywood movies such as Batman and an IML (International Mountain Leader). Finding a motivation to train is always the key and the project is usually the driver for this. Will be great to see where Ruth finds enjoyment in her climbing out here in the Ariege.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D6F6A_jSRcc/T7-uxfw7o1I/AAAAAAAASIE/E78mcDyJ3mY/s400/IMG05677-20120525-1231.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D6F6A_jSRcc/T7-uxfw7o1I/AAAAAAAASIE/E78mcDyJ3mY/s1600/IMG05677-20120525-1231.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8886960275730661006?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Relaxing your way up 8a+ at Sabart (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/relaxing-your-way-up-8a-at-sabart.html)
1 June 2012, 2:49 pm
I have been using new techniques at Sabart cave where I am simply
focusing on 2 simple things:
* the quality of the burn I am having on the route as I focus on
trying to increase my fitness
* how relaxed I can be in the foot and core movements in between the
ordinary f7a crux moves.
This has lead to a new climbing state of mind and body for me and when
I'm a good boy and concentrate on those 2 things, I seem to get a
prize...they call it the red point or enchaining. I expect if I do
another set of sessions well then I will be gifted a nice +, then when
I can warm up on this, I will move to the next place... The full crag
sessions. How very relaxing!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-4913995965905535479?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Ruth Jenkins joins ReAch as our first female coach from the Pyrenees (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/ruth-jenkins-joins-reach-as-our-first.html)
7 June 2012, 9:01 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UekHgP2x5F0/T9EJN5K5wpI/AAAAAAAASPY/3nFVSfKNpT0/s400/Ruth+Jenkins.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UekHgP2x5F0/T9EJN5K5wpI/AAAAAAAASPY/3nFVSfKNpT0/s1600/Ruth+Jenkins.jpg)
We are really proud to announce that Ruth is jjoining our Coaching network out here in the Pyrenees. Ruth was the 1st British woman to climb 8b and 4th in the world at the time and has wealth of coaching experience as well as being a qualified IML. Besides this and being a mother of two, she is also a Hollywood Stunt woman with credits such as BATMAN, HARRY POTTER and many more to her credit!
Ruth was also a Team coach for the British competition team a few years back and is renowed for her steely finger strength and great climbing technique. It is a great pleasure to welcome Ruth to our team of Elite coaches and her joining ReAch has again strengthened our internatiomal teamwith a clear focus on deliverying high quality coaching service out here in the amazing climbing mecca that is the Pyrenees.
For coaching sessions and climbing holidays in the Ariege please contact Ruth directly at her Gite (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858) or through ReAch at markmcgowan01@gmail.com
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ewY5L_MWWgY/T9CzYUye4GI/AAAAAAAASOc/NQr1r53uMRw/s320/599786_10150957738018609_1889095712_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ewY5L_MWWgY/T9CzYUye4GI/AAAAAAAASOc/NQr1r53uMRw/s1600/599786_10150957738018609_1889095712_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw6vnB6Au6c/T7K7_yE4d2I/AAAAAAAAR5k/wP9lWY8FQ2M/s320/575287_10150857140438609_737988608_9563975_132406055_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw6vnB6Au6c/T7K7_yE4d2I/AAAAAAAAR5k/wP9lWY8FQ2M/s1600/575287_10150857140438609_737988608_9563975_132406055_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D6F6A_jSRcc/T7-uxfw7o1I/AAAAAAAASIE/E78mcDyJ3mY/s320/IMG05677-20120525-1231.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D6F6A_jSRcc/T7-uxfw7o1I/AAAAAAAASIE/E78mcDyJ3mY/s1600/IMG05677-20120525-1231.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6522733264615009727?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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The Job Application (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/job-application.html)
9 June 2012, 6:26 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--k-gQWbpjn8/T9Odq_5nnNI/AAAAAAAASQM/Tc5oh2K-MoY/s400/253362_10150957963283609_1745842313_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--k-gQWbpjn8/T9Odq_5nnNI/AAAAAAAASQM/Tc5oh2K-MoY/s1600/253362_10150957963283609_1745842313_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DCl3_hLkZdM/T9OaMrVPkWI/AAAAAAAASQA/TAn0GQezwp4/s400/246489_10150962299898609_1829991054_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DCl3_hLkZdM/T9OaMrVPkWI/AAAAAAAASQA/TAn0GQezwp4/s1600/246489_10150962299898609_1829991054_n.jpg)
I have always tried to shoot at being the best i can be and when failure came along i took the big psychological falls, because thats what happens when you care about something.
I care about my climbing and learning to be the best coach I can be...
So I am learning to be coached at the moment by someone I trust to deliver me at the chains of what ever I end up being capable of in my climbing this year.
We have been religious in our training sessions at the crag, the processes and the after crag sessions on his systems up the hills in the Pyrenees doing weighted finger work and more core to build a new machine for the job i have applied for... the job being to maximize my climbing : It hurts you know, trying to be the best you can. we are only human which isnt really that great, but sometimes, your friends can find the best in you and your coach needs to be your friend to get the best from you. As friendship takes time, so does coaching...But for me, so does my understanding.... Patience...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YfHjouEMWhk/T7qF-m7TicI/AAAAAAAASBo/2cDgjMLHEyQ/s400/525148_10150915764348609_737988608_9685911_305896770_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YfHjouEMWhk/T7qF-m7TicI/AAAAAAAASBo/2cDgjMLHEyQ/s1600/525148_10150915764348609_737988608_9685911_305896770_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8418507930150873493?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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7's 8's and 9's... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/7s-8s-and-9s.html)
18 June 2012, 8:40 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hdDOY7mDrxo/T7jHzKwGaOI/AAAAAAAAR-k/h6G-CxHIsmc/s400/556745_10150910289493609_737988608_9667399_1252352189_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hdDOY7mDrxo/T7jHzKwGaOI/AAAAAAAAR-k/h6G-CxHIsmc/s1600/556745_10150910289493609_737988608_9667399_1252352189_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie on his project (9...)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDEAClJvrs4/T9N_UlTJvPI/AAAAAAAASP0/d4IGkV0RoAw/s400/601245_10150962109808609_1148679505_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDEAClJvrs4/T9N_UlTJvPI/AAAAAAAASP0/d4IGkV0RoAw/s1600/601245_10150962109808609_1148679505_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence training on 8b+ at Sabart
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VcB9x6TVaZY/T9-UFPfH_0I/AAAAAAAASSw/UmbxFgeQpbM/s400/380363_10150965521473609_1435437913_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VcB9x6TVaZY/T9-UFPfH_0I/AAAAAAAASSw/UmbxFgeQpbM/s1600/380363_10150965521473609_1435437913_n.jpg)
The last few days have been a little weird in terms of focus and expectations in my climbing. Stevie (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/5-minutes-training-plan-versus-5-years.html) and I have been doing some weighted finger pullups before hitting the crag sessions in the cave then returning for more power pulls on finger edges then some core work to finish things off. These are big training days that require some decent rest to recover and allow the muscles to repair.
So whilst i had a few consecutive rest days for some 'compensation' to take place, i tried to sneak some on sight climbing (flashing really as i saw beta on both routes!). Managed one to the chain and fell off high on an (8a). But I'm reasonably sure that our training sessions over the last few weeks have began to show some gains as i suspect I would have came off earlier on the 8a ground up and so I must stay the course with the current plan of building true depth to my climbing capacity to help me chain the upper 8's.
I've always thought I had reasonably strong fingers, but I was wrong. To take climbing to my next level, I need an increase of absolute finger strength by another 30% to 40% as well as a depth of physical fitness in my upper body and core to cope with a new level of goal that I seek this year.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nVLHXWDhjOY/T8H3KaB-iZI/AAAAAAAASKQ/dLZks8ayVDU/s400/IMGP0342.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s400/P1030306.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s1600/P1030306.JPG)
So today, I went on the 8a, then the 8b+ then had my first two burns on a 9 then back to the 8a, then up the hill to satin's lab for 24 x 5 weighted finger pull ups and core. Now I have still only sent up to 8a+ this year, but I know I am probably 8b fit, but I think I am beginning to really wake up to what I want from this summer's climbing... 14 weeks to go yet! Then I am free from the coach to come flying out the gates in a delirious climbing frenzy!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
[/td][/tr]
[/table](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-2056592898945403515?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers and core... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/building-power-endurance-system-fingers.html)
25 June 2012, 6:20 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qscVyWhDs/T-h42jTjnVI/AAAAAAAASTg/Rtsccqt4yR8/s400/555764_10150996116073609_724159531_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qscVyWhDs/T-h42jTjnVI/AAAAAAAASTg/Rtsccqt4yR8/s1600/555764_10150996116073609_724159531_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stretching - warm up[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozzuH8Bb1iM/T-h462pXiLI/AAAAAAAASTo/aHFVp_mDv8c/s400/562882_10150996371453609_1288069809_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozzuH8Bb1iM/T-h462pXiLI/AAAAAAAASTo/aHFVp_mDv8c/s1600/562882_10150996371453609_1288069809_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins (at ReAch HQ, Ariege) (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858) setting some bloc moves for PE circuits[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4PUuR5h-qo/T-h4yw75IYI/AAAAAAAASTY/ZEmo9deibNU/s400/522022_10150996157873609_446192957_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4PUuR5h-qo/T-h4yw75IYI/AAAAAAAASTY/ZEmo9deibNU/s1600/522022_10150996157873609_446192957_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EdEQPR3xw1w/T-ddW4NjxzI/AAAAAAAASTE/i-iIKe61dnc/s400/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EdEQPR3xw1w/T-ddW4NjxzI/AAAAAAAASTE/i-iIKe61dnc/s1600/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege
(Photo: Ian Storey)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart with Stevie Haston (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/breakfast-of-champions-by-stevie-haston.html), the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U_WZDdojTdk/T-it6pi9DbI/AAAAAAAASUA/rrsbYHqGaO4/s400/562204_10150994344088609_915653292_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U_WZDdojTdk/T-it6pi9DbI/AAAAAAAASUA/rrsbYHqGaO4/s1600/562204_10150994344088609_915653292_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker of Base Calames (http://www.basecalames.com/Version_Francaise/) sending a 7b at Genat[/td][/tr]
[/table]Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart. I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...
Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.
My PE for the fingers is this:
Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until the yield. Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets, then weight vest circuits. Then start again!
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HNDBnQxdYY/T4_g2Q8vxwI/AAAAAAAARQg/fuxGQRGxVqs/s400/447858_1265108732493.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HNDBnQxdYY/T4_g2Q8vxwI/AAAAAAAARQg/fuxGQRGxVqs/s1600/447858_1265108732493.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Farm House Gite (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1276555049761752118?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Sabart with Satan! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/05/sabart-with-satin.html)
20 May 2012, 3:28 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S79M8tR8j0o/T7jHqzVu4CI/AAAAAAAAR-U/JdKK0I719Vg/s400/546067_10150910290633609_737988608_9667402_274833662_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Satan's kind donation for my lessons in 'heels and toe hooks' at Sabart [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s400/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s1600/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Satan (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/05/paradise-regained-by-stevie-dante.html)[/td][/tr]
[/table]Just had my first lesson in technical roof climbing with my Satanic Coach (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/05/paradise-regained-by-stevie-dante.html) on a superb 8a classic at the Grotte de Sabart (http://cafma.free.fr/sabart/porche_gauche/gauche1.htm) in the Ariege.
This is something I have been terrible at as my background was very much fingery wall climbing with big run-outs onsight and never really found myself on such ground until yesterday. I got my obligatory flash attempt out the way after Satin showed me his sequence and managed to get where most mortals come off in a mix of core fatigue and general confusion. This place is awesome and these routes are so technical where you are climbing feet forward for about 40% of the time,.. if your not then you are probably doing it wrong!
[tr][td]
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9s1sqz-gjg/T7jH2mpPBeI/AAAAAAAAR-0/_q6LeiyTIJ0/s400/538952_10150910285943609_737988608_9667392_914802822_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d9s1sqz-gjg/T7jH2mpPBeI/AAAAAAAAR-0/_q6LeiyTIJ0/s1600/538952_10150910285943609_737988608_9667392_914802822_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hastons at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2wdqfgWto4/T7jH5JU1vhI/AAAAAAAAR_E/kmCS4-ev1Lo/s400/556854_10150910283663609_737988608_9667389_1567995383_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l2wdqfgWto4/T7jH5JU1vhI/AAAAAAAAR_E/kmCS4-ev1Lo/s1600/556854_10150910283663609_737988608_9667389_1567995383_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence Gouault Haston training at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9m-dADTg7Ms/T7jIAeCltYI/AAAAAAAAR_s/-waSnVqgYa0/s400/540657_10150910278513609_737988608_9667375_704227308_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9m-dADTg7Ms/T7jIAeCltYI/AAAAAAAAR_s/-waSnVqgYa0/s1600/540657_10150910278513609_737988608_9667375_704227308_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Q5XtgBQFnQ/T7jH_BZcukI/AAAAAAAAR_g/8hI_cPpW-Ss/s400/306107_10150910279113609_737988608_9667377_600257627_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Q5XtgBQFnQ/T7jH_BZcukI/AAAAAAAAR_g/8hI_cPpW-Ss/s1600/306107_10150910279113609_737988608_9667377_600257627_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJCQMk8zvAY/T7jH-Gb2Q0I/AAAAAAAAR_c/riA_0F5iJ48/s400/547516_10150910281323609_1541862045_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YJCQMk8zvAY/T7jH-Gb2Q0I/AAAAAAAAR_c/riA_0F5iJ48/s1600/547516_10150910281323609_1541862045_n.jpg)
After my go the other Haston (the nice one!) showed me her sequence and then I watched Satan on his new project (9?) which looked so futuristic. A great day and a place where i am begining all over again in climbing.
This was after a day on Metis (8b+) at Genat where I managed to apply some of the French (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-TeTejh1ebs) beta to my sequence and hopefully helped a fine young local by coaching him up a route that one day I am sure he will send like a dream...
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mj4X-Jw54AI/T7jIBjIaJcI/AAAAAAAAR_0/jeumAx9n_M0/s400/480228_10150910272943609_737988608_9667363_1396890434_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mj4X-Jw54AI/T7jIBjIaJcI/AAAAAAAAR_0/jeumAx9n_M0/s1600/480228_10150910272943609_737988608_9667363_1396890434_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker at Genat (7c+/8a)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6807829491239005910?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Finger Strength Training System by Eva Lopez now available in UK (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/07/finger-strength-training-system-by-eva.html)
13 July 2012, 4:56 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLlkj1kzT0M/T33K4cJjWeI/AAAAAAAAQ9M/9NOnHcN9BxI/s400/533330_335511869829884_122550151126058_832627_2023063007_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLlkj1kzT0M/T33K4cJjWeI/AAAAAAAAQ9M/9NOnHcN9BxI/s1600/533330_335511869829884_122550151126058_832627_2023063007_n.jpg)
The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/) and JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)of Barcelona has finally made it into British soil and is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)
ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and working to bring this innovative training board an methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s320/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s1600/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s400/P1030306.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s1600/P1030306.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston & Mark McGowan
Photo: Laurence Gauoult Haston[/td][/tr]
[/table]
For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at verticalventures@talktalk.net or for Strategic Marketing contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8625687532487671916?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Finger StrengthTraining System by Eva Lopez now available in UK (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/07/finger-strength-training-system-by-eva.html)
13 July 2012, 4:56 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLlkj1kzT0M/T33K4cJjWeI/AAAAAAAAQ9M/9NOnHcN9BxI/s400/533330_335511869829884_122550151126058_832627_2023063007_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wLlkj1kzT0M/T33K4cJjWeI/AAAAAAAAQ9M/9NOnHcN9BxI/s1600/533330_335511869829884_122550151126058_832627_2023063007_n.jpg)
The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez (http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/) and JM Climbing (http://jmclimbing.com/tablas-de-entrenamiento-multipresa)of Barcelona has finally made it into British soil and is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)
ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and working to bring this innovative training board and methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s400/P1030306.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s1600/P1030306.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston & Mark McGowan
Photo: Laurence Gouault Haston[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s320/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MlrxaUkrCRc/T6KRoz611-I/AAAAAAAARfc/iGOgUsblpz4/s1600/523348_10150819268358609_737988608_9543515_632659217_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins[/td][/tr]
[/table]
For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at verticalventures@talktalk.net or for Strategic Marketing contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8625687532487671916?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/06/building-power-endurance-system-fingers.html)
25 June 2012, 6:20 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qscVyWhDs/T-h42jTjnVI/AAAAAAAASTg/Rtsccqt4yR8/s400/555764_10150996116073609_724159531_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M6qscVyWhDs/T-h42jTjnVI/AAAAAAAASTg/Rtsccqt4yR8/s1600/555764_10150996116073609_724159531_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stretching - warm up[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozzuH8Bb1iM/T-h462pXiLI/AAAAAAAASTo/aHFVp_mDv8c/s400/562882_10150996371453609_1288069809_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ozzuH8Bb1iM/T-h462pXiLI/AAAAAAAASTo/aHFVp_mDv8c/s1600/562882_10150996371453609_1288069809_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins (at ReAch HQ, Ariege) (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858) setting some bloc moves for PE circuits[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4PUuR5h-qo/T-h4yw75IYI/AAAAAAAASTY/ZEmo9deibNU/s400/522022_10150996157873609_446192957_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U4PUuR5h-qo/T-h4yw75IYI/AAAAAAAASTY/ZEmo9deibNU/s1600/522022_10150996157873609_446192957_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EdEQPR3xw1w/T-ddW4NjxzI/AAAAAAAASTE/i-iIKe61dnc/s400/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EdEQPR3xw1w/T-ddW4NjxzI/AAAAAAAASTE/i-iIKe61dnc/s1600/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege
(Photo: Ian Storey)[/td][/tr]
[/table]After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart with Stevie Haston (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/06/breakfast-of-champions-by-stevie-haston.html), the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U_WZDdojTdk/T-it6pi9DbI/AAAAAAAASUA/rrsbYHqGaO4/s400/562204_10150994344088609_915653292_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U_WZDdojTdk/T-it6pi9DbI/AAAAAAAASUA/rrsbYHqGaO4/s1600/562204_10150994344088609_915653292_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker of Base Calames (http://www.basecalames.com/Version_Francaise/) sending a 7b at Genat[/td][/tr]
[/table]Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart. I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...
Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.
My PE for the fingers is this:
- Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until they yield.
- Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets,
- Then weight vest circuits... Then start again!
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HNDBnQxdYY/T4_g2Q8vxwI/AAAAAAAARQg/fuxGQRGxVqs/s400/447858_1265108732493.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5HNDBnQxdYY/T4_g2Q8vxwI/AAAAAAAARQg/fuxGQRGxVqs/s1600/447858_1265108732493.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Farm House Gite (http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p447858)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-1276555049761752118?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Stevie Haston Master Class at Grotte de Sabart, to help me complete a climbing dream. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/07/stevie-haston-master-class-at-grotte-de.html)
31 July 2012, 8:56 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NNlQm5JBSrU/UBg0x49hyAI/AAAAAAAASak/EGrvoJzTXTw/s400/396154_10151074001503609_1130116989_n+(1).jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NNlQm5JBSrU/UBg0x49hyAI/AAAAAAAASak/EGrvoJzTXTw/s1600/396154_10151074001503609_1130116989_n+(1).jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybjrdwdxAmE/UBg0wdGipcI/AAAAAAAASac/5BiIG_E1JAQ/s400/375730_10151073095423609_940960857_n+(1).jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybjrdwdxAmE/UBg0wdGipcI/AAAAAAAASac/5BiIG_E1JAQ/s1600/375730_10151073095423609_940960857_n+(1).jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston working his current 9a+ project at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table] As a person who has coached other climbers, I am aware of the processes to try and help others but it began to come to my attention that my own climbing knowledge was limited and more importantly I have always wanted to climb at my true potential (at least for a bit!).
Trying to understand what you are capable of is not something you really understand yourself... Others have to see it in you and have the ability to facilitate and support that process. So whenI first stumbled across my friend here in the Pyrenees I initially thought wouldnt it be great to have Stevie Haston (http://iehaston.blogspot.com/) associated with ReAch Climbing Coach.
Now stupidity and short sighted behaviour has never been far from me! It has eventually become more and more obvious to me that I missed the real opportunity...
Stevie has coached and advised world class talent in the international climbing scene for many years and here I was getting it wrong! So, recently, I took up the batton and have given myself over to the training, coaching and advice of Stevie to help me be the best I can be in climbing this year.
Stevie's climbing profile is too long to list here... so try here! (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2721)A training DVD is being developed with Stevie and I and through this process we are un picking all the elements that make us the best we can be in climbing. My return from 6a to 8a (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.fr/2010/12/master-class-article-in-climber.html) was well catalogued (and hard at the time to achieve) but really, what is more exciting for both of us is for me to learn to train and climb at my real limit and for Stevie to push his own limit again, again and again!
If you wish to contact Stevie Haston directly for online coaching and or 1 to 1 here in the Pyrenees then email him at stevie.haston@orange.fr also see him at http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-saXLghAKQVk/UBg08V3zhFI/AAAAAAAASbg/1Z0ZOZtxtm4/s400/554744_10150988200338609_1748536733_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-saXLghAKQVk/UBg08V3zhFI/AAAAAAAASbg/1Z0ZOZtxtm4/s1600/554744_10150988200338609_1748536733_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8199726974188459220?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Online Dual Factor Training Program (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/online-dual-factor-training-program.html)
4 August 2012, 4:10 am
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s400/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s1600/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston Elite Coaching session at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Dual Factor Training Program begining the month September to December.
We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by 3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan or Stevie Haston to discuss our 4 month program costing £200.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C1u0hB_FwFY/T8KNV3LzYfI/AAAAAAAASM8/XBGN-MI688Q/s400/IMG_0566.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C1u0hB_FwFY/T8KNV3LzYfI/AAAAAAAASM8/XBGN-MI688Q/s1600/IMG_0566.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com or stevie.haston@orange.fr for more details...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s400/P1030306.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s1600/P1030306.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-978402137185359061?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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New Online Training Program (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/online-dual-factor-training-program.html)
4 August 2012, 4:10 am
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s400/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-19RkqywqKis/T7jH71orRmI/AAAAAAAAR_M/CC-XgzNs7Tk/s1600/156228_10150910283013609_737988608_9667387_1871913775_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston Elite Coaching session at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Training Program begining the month September to December.
We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by 3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan or Stevie Haston to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C1u0hB_FwFY/T8KNV3LzYfI/AAAAAAAASM8/XBGN-MI688Q/s400/IMG_0566.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C1u0hB_FwFY/T8KNV3LzYfI/AAAAAAAASM8/XBGN-MI688Q/s1600/IMG_0566.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan at Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com or stevie.haston@orange.fr for more details...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s400/P1030306.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HgWRht2Npc0/T9d70pZqC5I/AAAAAAAASQY/rShM_TJ-DWQ/s1600/P1030306.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-978402137185359061?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Dual Factor Online Training Program - September Start (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/dual-factor-online-training-program.html)
4 August 2012, 4:10 am
We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Dual Factor Training Program begining the month September to December.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lPMw8f8K4CE/UCaa2dL8_UI/AAAAAAAASg0/qn_vHT6dntw/s400/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+(2).jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lPMw8f8K4CE/UCaa2dL8_UI/AAAAAAAASg0/qn_vHT6dntw/s1600/484235_4093149045215_1267575594_n+(2).jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan working Metis (8b+), Genat[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by around 2/3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for more details...
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4hmNwr2i9Pw/T8H3aHXGn8I/AAAAAAAASKo/7-VyaIikr3M/s400/IMGP0345.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4hmNwr2i9Pw/T8H3aHXGn8I/AAAAAAAASKo/7-VyaIikr3M/s1600/IMGP0345.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bouldering at Targasonne, Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]ALL PLACES FILLED FOR SEPTEMBER TEAM...
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-978402137185359061?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Re-visiting the fingers with some Johnny Walker! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/re-visiting-fingers-with-some-johnny.html)
16 August 2012, 8:04 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VURZHvkQTKU/UC1ClIJmhQI/AAAAAAAASmI/vX1ENqO84Vw/s400/DSC_0004.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VURZHvkQTKU/UC1ClIJmhQI/AAAAAAAASmI/vX1ENqO84Vw/s1600/DSC_0004.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker (http://www.basecalames.com/Rock_Climbing/index.html) [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_C91XRqFWx8/UC1DJ9m2q8I/AAAAAAAASnQ/hyrcyMkrUU4/s400/DSC_0023.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_C91XRqFWx8/UC1DJ9m2q8I/AAAAAAAASnQ/hyrcyMkrUU4/s1600/DSC_0023.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker (http://www.basecalames.com/Rock_Climbing/index.html) [/td][/tr]
[/table]The thing about climbing is that you have to look after all the elements to avoid losing them. Fingery wall climbing is so specific to one muscle group that you must keep the level up or you will lose it quickly.
I have been working a great roof in the Grotte de Sabart recently and have found myself getting out onto other rock again with expectations of greatness but allas the fingers have not been getting what they needed in the cave to keep the power endurance levels up on fingery hanging walls or maybe they have and it is just an adjustment of technique that is required or it is just too hot to crimp!?
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u1xzFM0Qgq4/UC1DjtVjnEI/AAAAAAAASoQ/Y8z9HAJp8P8/s400/DSC_0034.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u1xzFM0Qgq4/UC1DjtVjnEI/AAAAAAAASoQ/Y8z9HAJp8P8/s1600/DSC_0034.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker (http://www.basecalames.com/Rock_Climbing/index.html) [/td][/tr]
[/table]I want more from my climbing than just specializing in a single style. But I have to say that the Grotte de Sabart sessions were the most enlightening sport climbing experience of my life in opening my eyes on how to adjust my climbing style and mental approach..
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SBm-q28TZkg/UC1DwYmBckI/AAAAAAAASow/mgW-JtHuqNc/s400/DSC_0038.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SBm-q28TZkg/UC1DwYmBckI/AAAAAAAASow/mgW-JtHuqNc/s1600/DSC_0038.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker (http://www.basecalames.com/Rock_Climbing/index.html)[/td][/tr]
[/table]To climb 8b for Dyspraxia (http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01) is my goal this year and to try and build a new life around the things & people I really value here... It seems an endless task right now but I'm sure it will all be enchained when everything is in it's place.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-247730926068860668?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Cave Climbing at Grotte de Sabart, Ariege (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/cave-climbing-at-grotte-de-sabart-ariege.html)
20 August 2012, 7:09 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dS4DJD9-Sxc/UC6Rrm_PxcI/AAAAAAAASpc/qE7aLPNucoc/s400/P1020424.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dS4DJD9-Sxc/UC6Rrm_PxcI/AAAAAAAASpc/qE7aLPNucoc/s1600/P1020424.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td] Red pointing (8a) Grotte de Sabart - Photo: Craig Smith[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-skTb0CNOmc0/UC6R6ewlCZI/AAAAAAAASps/BtTuyY4AUwY/s400/P1020425.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-skTb0CNOmc0/UC6R6ewlCZI/AAAAAAAASps/BtTuyY4AUwY/s1600/P1020425.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
| Red pointing (8a) Grotte de Sabart - Photo: Craig Smith |
[/t][/t][/t]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nh6kOajf_XE/UC6SSYzjPCI/AAAAAAAASp0/DfoNHsMaiH8/s400/P1020442.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Nh6kOajf_XE/UC6SSYzjPCI/AAAAAAAASp0/DfoNHsMaiH8/s1600/P1020442.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Craig Smith on (8a) Grotte de Sabart. Photo: Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-VLsau_ETs/UC6S67IAbpI/AAAAAAAASp8/E1hXOcEcS_8/s400/P1020464.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6-VLsau_ETs/UC6S67IAbpI/AAAAAAAASp8/E1hXOcEcS_8/s1600/P1020464.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Craig Smith on (8a) Grotte de Sabart. Photo: Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]
[/table]Sometimes climbing partnerships don't work and so one has to move on (as in life) but I always like to learn from the experience and try and find the good in situations. I embrace what I have learned in the cave from Stevie and move a little more forward for my own. It is THE local training venue and is a very special crag here in the Ariege.
An old skool legend Craig Smith got a taste for the Grotte when out on his holidays and it seems even an 'old dog' can be open to new tricks. Can't wait to see him back tearing the knee bars open with his newly trained core!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cX_4sUdrDIs/UDJs7EfPX8I/AAAAAAAASrs/9W-1we_LXkc/s400/Reine.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cX_4sUdrDIs/UDJs7EfPX8I/AAAAAAAASrs/9W-1we_LXkc/s1600/Reine.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan working the 28m roof of Reine de Sabart, (8b)
Photo: Ian Storey[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8753006876163107411?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Learning to be a coach... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/08/learning-to-be-coach.html)
22 August 2012, 8:56 pm
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wv9XmltgbH8/T74LhPOmZNI/AAAAAAAASGw/TsbLBFsDIas/s320/292205_10150694475228609_737988608_9216976_948658451_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wv9XmltgbH8/T74LhPOmZNI/AAAAAAAASGw/TsbLBFsDIas/s1600/292205_10150694475228609_737988608_9216976_948658451_n.jpg) |
| Carrying the drill out on Gozo Island |
What I have learned in the last 9 months about finding out how to coach climbing better has surprized me. Because, learning about yourself and how you cope or fail to cope in climbing situations is important because until you know about yourself then you can't truly coach others well.
I started the 1st month with a knee operation so I could continue to run to the hills in December. I drove 2000km to Montserrat with a post op stiffness in the knee on the drive at christmas. I lived in my car through the month of Jan while working in Scotland on the ropes then drove to Ariege for Feb. Stayed off my elbows and ran in the snow to let them recover and strengthen my knee...
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rij1fT_1sQI/T3ecUJZc9YI/AAAAAAAAQxM/BbkxQGbsPE4/s320/525308_10150698682418609_737988608_9230421_1360329254_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rij1fT_1sQI/T3ecUJZc9YI/AAAAAAAAQxM/BbkxQGbsPE4/s1600/525308_10150698682418609_737988608_9230421_1360329254_n.jpg) |
| Bolting on Gozo |
Chopped wood for food and shelter in March at the Farmhouse and Coached the kids in Siurana in April. Bolted 15 routes on Gozo island with Haston then took a holiday with the stunt woman across the Pyrenees to the surf in May. Started in the Grotte de Sabart in June and messed up July under pressure. So in August I continue to work the 28m roof of potentially the greatest sport route I might or might not ever climb.
I move to fix my own life under my own steam to achieve what I know I need to achieve to set me free. In september I will be 'psyched' and in October I will try for success.
Learning about your self takes comitment and time and this is what coaching is about. Passing on what you know without ego to help others find the better in themselves.
I always wanted to be a teacher... Sometimes the obvious is just sitting under your nose.
So here is to my own place in Auzat in the Ariege, here is to the ReAch September Team and here is to having the courage to ditch your ego for personal growth and enchaining your own '8b'!| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-51QZ6VbQ-HU/UC6R423iQcI/AAAAAAAASpk/mUS8aUYF_5Y/s320/P1020427.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-51QZ6VbQ-HU/UC6R423iQcI/AAAAAAAASpk/mUS8aUYF_5Y/s1600/P1020427.JPG) |
| Grotte de Sabart (Photo: Craig Smith) |
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-992554916820024484?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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1:1 coaching sessions in Scotland (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/09/11-coaching-sessions-in-scotland.html)
1 September 2012, 7:08 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2f9qfQEiyc4/UC1DRyFVlwI/AAAAAAAASno/vYiugkxp2ro/s640/DSC_0026.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2f9qfQEiyc4/UC1DRyFVlwI/AAAAAAAASno/vYiugkxp2ro/s1600/DSC_0026.JPG)
Mark McGowan will be available for 1:1 outdoor coaching sessions in Scotland from 2nd to 8th September. Please contact directly on markmcgowan01@gmail.com if you wish to arrange a session.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-7952060764329169466?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch October Team (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/09/reach-october-team.html)
20 September 2012, 6:38 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G8b1-obk_64/UC1DC6aF-3I/AAAAAAAASnA/5vQZj8F8QJs/s640/DSC_0014.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G8b1-obk_64/UC1DC6aF-3I/AAAAAAAASnA/5vQZj8F8QJs/s1600/DSC_0014.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Photo: Jon Stoelker (http://www.basecalames.com/)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We are now canvasing for 5 UK clients using our online Dual Factor Training Program begining mid of October to mid January.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu7X4qwMGOE/UFtf-xPHQmI/AAAAAAAAS4A/CLI7p7EygEk/s400/301125_10151162770848609_2043976075_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yu7X4qwMGOE/UFtf-xPHQmI/AAAAAAAAS4A/CLI7p7EygEk/s1600/301125_10151162770848609_2043976075_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan coaching 1:1 at Calames,Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qvoIejyTgPk/UFtgCJKp-RI/AAAAAAAAS4Q/poeZqEsDvqQ/s400/535994_10151162397478609_1823264605_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qvoIejyTgPk/UFtgCJKp-RI/AAAAAAAAS4Q/poeZqEsDvqQ/s1600/535994_10151162397478609_1823264605_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Gerard at Calames, Ariege, Pyrenees [/td][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table]We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by around 2/3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.
We will also be offering the team special rates on 1:1 coaching in the Ariege with ReAch and Base Calames (http://www.basecalames.com/)
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for more details...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-8804397612705585818?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch September Team (and more friends!) come to Ariege - foto session (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/10/reach-september-team-and-more-friends.html)
8 October 2012, 4:11 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UltnHF8IXr4/UHL595T_4aI/AAAAAAAAS4k/yZ5n6gz1pCw/s640/1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UltnHF8IXr4/UHL595T_4aI/AAAAAAAAS4k/yZ5n6gz1pCw/s1600/1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark, Malcolm & Duncan at Grotte de Sabart[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XV19Jnz18h0/UHL5_XaoEMI/AAAAAAAAS4s/idJbsgTH__w/s400/10.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XV19Jnz18h0/UHL5_XaoEMI/AAAAAAAAS4s/idJbsgTH__w/s1600/10.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Joanne Lucas on 8a[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2mSmpYiMXE0/UHL6Bi53rrI/AAAAAAAAS40/M5MO5VU4MqE/s400/11.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2mSmpYiMXE0/UHL6Bi53rrI/AAAAAAAAS40/M5MO5VU4MqE/s1600/11.jpg)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ETfKiEnyaeY/UHL6Ec3E-qI/AAAAAAAAS48/--hFZraClg4/s400/12.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ETfKiEnyaeY/UHL6Ec3E-qI/AAAAAAAAS48/--hFZraClg4/s1600/12.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nCiiyUO4kJA/UHL6HNL1t0I/AAAAAAAAS5M/P05sKj1_mM4/s400/2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nCiiyUO4kJA/UHL6HNL1t0I/AAAAAAAAS5M/P05sKj1_mM4/s1600/2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5X2HMNKOrJU/UHL6IgjwazI/AAAAAAAAS5U/lHyHOxiTJl0/s400/3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5X2HMNKOrJU/UHL6IgjwazI/AAAAAAAAS5U/lHyHOxiTJl0/s1600/3.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j8WhT0Vq2sY/UHL6KCeyb8I/AAAAAAAAS5c/CAWb5aBwUiI/s400/4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j8WhT0Vq2sY/UHL6KCeyb8I/AAAAAAAAS5c/CAWb5aBwUiI/s1600/4.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cb9kYRWx3vU/UHL6Lq0e3iI/AAAAAAAAS5k/8J8SSMqP1I8/s400/6.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cb9kYRWx3vU/UHL6Lq0e3iI/AAAAAAAAS5k/8J8SSMqP1I8/s1600/6.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2LD2bTbpaxk/UHL6M_Z_nfI/AAAAAAAAS5s/olnRdq8rCD0/s400/7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2LD2bTbpaxk/UHL6M_Z_nfI/AAAAAAAAS5s/olnRdq8rCD0/s1600/7.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pbxVfxLOLak/UHL6OQgM7YI/AAAAAAAAS50/DMuWxX9rrOg/s400/8.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pbxVfxLOLak/UHL6OQgM7YI/AAAAAAAAS50/DMuWxX9rrOg/s1600/8.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcM0y9F7Zno/UHL6QKBNNII/AAAAAAAAS58/yPoRgwj3MUY/s400/9.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcM0y9F7Zno/UHL6QKBNNII/AAAAAAAAS58/yPoRgwj3MUY/s1600/9.jpg)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pt_SrJlsWyE/UHL6RpRwzFI/AAAAAAAAS6E/WAY3ViLrWNs/s400/noname.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pt_SrJlsWyE/UHL6RpRwzFI/AAAAAAAAS6E/WAY3ViLrWNs/s1600/noname.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Duncan Jones at Calames[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-avPrRxElTlI/UHL6S32mzII/AAAAAAAAS6M/N-8oXwCVHeE/s400/noname1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-avPrRxElTlI/UHL6S32mzII/AAAAAAAAS6M/N-8oXwCVHeE/s1600/noname1.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RjuYA1ExEc/UHL6Uc74V5I/AAAAAAAAS6U/NRILW6uG18k/s400/noname10.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RjuYA1ExEc/UHL6Uc74V5I/AAAAAAAAS6U/NRILW6uG18k/s1600/noname10.jpg)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9RE4D2ZYj70/UHL6VmOKP8I/AAAAAAAAS6c/R7G6oqy4QC0/s400/noname2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9RE4D2ZYj70/UHL6VmOKP8I/AAAAAAAAS6c/R7G6oqy4QC0/s1600/noname2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Cheating bastardos![/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAzZVOCX5HA/UHL6W_221kI/AAAAAAAAS6k/_jePE_7EP2U/s400/noname3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AAzZVOCX5HA/UHL6W_221kI/AAAAAAAAS6k/_jePE_7EP2U/s1600/noname3.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0EG1A5qCxQ/UHL6Ydi3TvI/AAAAAAAAS6s/T8AixL7v7PA/s400/noname4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0EG1A5qCxQ/UHL6Ydi3TvI/AAAAAAAAS6s/T8AixL7v7PA/s1600/noname4.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qya_jauJaV4/UHL6Z2Ls5OI/AAAAAAAAS60/r0EDFYNI4Ow/s400/noname5.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qya_jauJaV4/UHL6Z2Ls5OI/AAAAAAAAS60/r0EDFYNI4Ow/s1600/noname5.jpg)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jjcg1QhSEEo/UHL6bL_IktI/AAAAAAAAS68/cjOaJ5bOLUQ/s400/noname6.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jjcg1QhSEEo/UHL6bL_IktI/AAAAAAAAS68/cjOaJ5bOLUQ/s1600/noname6.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Calames, Ariege[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vv0Or2WiZ44/UHL6d6mxP4I/AAAAAAAAS7M/dPgDKF64Aw8/s400/noname8.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vv0Or2WiZ44/UHL6d6mxP4I/AAAAAAAAS7M/dPgDKF64Aw8/s1600/noname8.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--rQ99RkEcxU/UHL6fO3oxEI/AAAAAAAAS7U/xNwaq-_Bzpk/s400/noname9.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--rQ99RkEcxU/UHL6fO3oxEI/AAAAAAAAS7U/xNwaq-_Bzpk/s1600/noname9.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-5002498505252644139?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch November Team (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/10/reach-november-team.html)
25 October 2012, 2:26 pm
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IqywcKI0Wc/UIWX_5ihfPI/AAAAAAAATGg/GwOuLKbzK7E/s400/2012-10-22) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0IqywcKI0Wc/UIWX_5ihfPI/AAAAAAAATGg/GwOuLKbzK7E/s1600/2012-10-22) | | |
| Mark McGowan working Metis (8b+), Genat, Ariege (Photo Alan James (http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/france-ariege-2012/)) |
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We are now canvasing for 5 UK climbers for our November Team for our online training programme. The programme costs 200.00 GBP and runs for a period of 4 months begining mid November.
You will recieve a 4 month online programme containing the following:- access to online training data during the programme period
- bespoke online DF program based on profile
- online coaching support to monitor progress or discuss issues during the 4 months
With this training programme, the main ingredients for success are your comitment and online support to help you through the good and bad times of the programme period and help you manage the changes needed to successfully taper to a peak.
Success is obviously never guaranteed but our success lies in the support and focus that is generated by havng the mutually shared online programme between client and coach.
For specific route projects such as red pointing of your project, Mark is available for 1:1 coaching sessions in Scotland, Spain by specific arrangement and the Ariege, Pyrenees (where we will also be offering the team special rates on coaching trips in the Ariege with ReAch and Base Calames (http://www.basecalames.com/)),
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for more details...
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]New guide due out asap for Ariege (http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/france-ariege-2012/)[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-5285592909220572783?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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The 1000 - http://www.climbforlife.it/en/ (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/the-1000-httpwwwclimbforlifeiten.html)
1 November 2012, 3:41 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HoTFJ-oasSM/UJKTjlT0UwI/AAAAAAAATUY/FAoas6_GFfA/s400/175942_10151225441483609_447525309_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HoTFJ-oasSM/UJKTjlT0UwI/AAAAAAAATUY/FAoas6_GFfA/s1600/175942_10151225441483609_447525309_o.jpg)
Inspired by this (http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/2012/10/1000-pull-ups-for-wwwclimbforlifeit-by.html), I decided it was a good time for me to try for the 1000 pull up challenge as it seems like a great cause and the timing was right for me to try and complete such a great psychological challenge. It took me around 10 hours with 200 visits to the ledge with short sets of 5... Not the cleanest pull ups I have ever done but certainly the meanest!
A great challenge for all when you are looking to build some psychological strength as well as bigger arms! It's not easy but felt great pulling up for that big number 1000! Try it!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q1_8rkp0iA/UJKTlzjvHKI/AAAAAAAATUg/F-lT30CNNfg/s320/201038_10151225285978609_332858844_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Q1_8rkp0iA/UJKTlzjvHKI/AAAAAAAATUg/F-lT30CNNfg/s1600/201038_10151225285978609_332858844_o.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XIWvXqjYxq4/UJKTmq6ilGI/AAAAAAAATUk/v03nRNu9AJU/s320/254358_10151225283168609_236322380_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XIWvXqjYxq4/UJKTmq6ilGI/AAAAAAAATUk/v03nRNu9AJU/s1600/254358_10151225283168609_236322380_n.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkob3HAVxrU/UJKTnQbJaBI/AAAAAAAATUs/kM7AYhUkFFg/s320/400292_10151225281918609_563907672_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Kkob3HAVxrU/UJKTnQbJaBI/AAAAAAAATUs/kM7AYhUkFFg/s1600/400292_10151225281918609_563907672_n.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0XrPlKCWc2I/UJKR7etSP2I/AAAAAAAATTw/yAHFeazPiW8/s320/133997_10151229059888609_1562778870_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0XrPlKCWc2I/UJKR7etSP2I/AAAAAAAATTw/yAHFeazPiW8/s1600/133997_10151229059888609_1562778870_o.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34nuT18QsRM/UJKSFIr6-bI/AAAAAAAATUQ/eBWiqBxQ-rg/s320/620667_10151229054763609_1985258716_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34nuT18QsRM/UJKSFIr6-bI/AAAAAAAATUQ/eBWiqBxQ-rg/s1600/620667_10151229054763609_1985258716_o.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RuUArex3qIg/UJKSCBolL7I/AAAAAAAATUI/pGwuuKQhijs/s320/54658_10151229237993609_1637872705_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RuUArex3qIg/UJKSCBolL7I/AAAAAAAATUI/pGwuuKQhijs/s1600/54658_10151229237993609_1637872705_o.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hjbat4axzHE/UJKR-0kh7UI/AAAAAAAATUA/S4q35ko0tw4/s320/326816_10151229246268609_644978017_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hjbat4axzHE/UJKR-0kh7UI/AAAAAAAATUA/S4q35ko0tw4/s1600/326816_10151229246268609_644978017_o.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-3627994823055613155?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Estamos buscando 5 clientes Españoles/Catalanes para nuestro equipo de diciembre (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/5-espanolcatalan-clientes-para-nuestro.html)
3 November 2012, 7:12 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LM-k5wfXT6Y/T7KxeB0cuJI/AAAAAAAARn8/yBlymfDXu7U/s400/385741_10150857139333609_737988608_9563970_1408620645_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LM-k5wfXT6Y/T7KxeB0cuJI/AAAAAAAARn8/yBlymfDXu7U/s1600/385741_10150857139333609_737988608_9563970_1408620645_n+%25281%2529.jpg)
"Estamos buscando 5 clientes Españoles/Catalanes para nuestro equipo de diciembre a entrenar con nuestro programa en linea durante 4 meses a un precio de 200 euros. Por favor, pongase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vRr08O0TvEs/T7KxOCAHNwI/AAAAAAAARmE/BkvPuufTO_o/s400/181418_10150890390393609_737988608_9611997_1207737959_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vRr08O0TvEs/T7KxOCAHNwI/AAAAAAAARmE/BkvPuufTO_o/s1600/181418_10150890390393609_737988608_9611997_1207737959_n.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6708787645297688377?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Last few weeks of training for our September Team... Incredible! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/last-few-weeks-of-training-for-our.html)
27 November 2012, 11:45 am
November Tor (http://vimeo.com/53275024) from 205Chris (http://vimeo.com/user14484493) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).Chris sending Weed Killer Traverse in the Peak
We are nearly there with the ReAch September Team, with just a few weeks left, it has been great seeing the ups and downs and back UPs again! Training for 4 months consistently is not easy, I know.
Sport science is ever changing and only some data seems to carry forward into the next generation of research as 'credible'... We use various training methods specializing in Dual Factor but for me, what makes the ReAch Training Program 'credible' is having someone watching how you are doing during the program period and this is the whole center for my coaching.
It is not that I am a better climber ( I have climbed 8a+ so far since returning in 2010 and am proud but I want more!) but it is that I think I understand the motivational drivers and need for support when things can get a bit tougher.
So here is to my September Team ...Nearly THERE! :)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iLMQaWOWZBg/ULPxPeFE6pI/AAAAAAAATec/YKJdGYfS9Zk/s400/190315_10151194669323609_1027221644_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iLMQaWOWZBg/ULPxPeFE6pI/AAAAAAAATec/YKJdGYfS9Zk/s1600/190315_10151194669323609_1027221644_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Joanne Lucas at Grotte De Sabart testing her core![/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93SveSpiXwM/ULPxQWEWREI/AAAAAAAATek/qHTvMhJ_G1U/s400/198683_10151194669893609_496113954_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93SveSpiXwM/ULPxQWEWREI/AAAAAAAATek/qHTvMhJ_G1U/s1600/198683_10151194669893609_496113954_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Duncan Jones Working techniques at Calames in Ariege[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_v0sxR2ycWQ/ULPxWKYdsGI/AAAAAAAATfA/Lrkf3OPXQ6E/s400/287636_10151407566194447_1370629846_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_v0sxR2ycWQ/ULPxWKYdsGI/AAAAAAAATfA/Lrkf3OPXQ6E/s1600/287636_10151407566194447_1370629846_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]1:1 day at Dunkeld, Scotland on 7b+ with Joanne[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7HZjEQ1H5n0/ULPxaqD9NmI/AAAAAAAATfc/Knc8eVKfamY/s400/292773_10151194669468609_879173983_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7HZjEQ1H5n0/ULPxaqD9NmI/AAAAAAAATfc/Knc8eVKfamY/s1600/292773_10151194669468609_879173983_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Joanne working 8a at Grotte de Sabart, Ariege, Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMnu4pxjUUM/ULPxbZUxcxI/AAAAAAAATfk/oF9cbt_cOkU/s320/301125_10151162770848609_2043976075_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IMnu4pxjUUM/ULPxbZUxcxI/AAAAAAAATfk/oF9cbt_cOkU/s1600/301125_10151162770848609_2043976075_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Px9a2jJiu6U/ULPxewsRF8I/AAAAAAAATgA/M9-Q2cokqu4/s400/406642_10150575060071719_1423798342_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Px9a2jJiu6U/ULPxewsRF8I/AAAAAAAATgA/M9-Q2cokqu4/s1600/406642_10150575060071719_1423798342_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Spain with Sonia belaying Joanne at Montserrat, Cataluna,.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9rTCWb0RTcM/ULPxfuKZTUI/AAAAAAAATgE/75Gn1Q-xwmk/s400/487525_10151194670448609_757153264_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9rTCWb0RTcM/ULPxfuKZTUI/AAAAAAAATgE/75Gn1Q-xwmk/s1600/487525_10151194670448609_757153264_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark Taking a lesson from Malcolm at Calames[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3bl234lLY18/ULPxgtN2MWI/AAAAAAAATgQ/1jK-ryo2Mhc/s400/539381_10151194670383609_1796107483_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3bl234lLY18/ULPxgtN2MWI/AAAAAAAATgQ/1jK-ryo2Mhc/s1600/539381_10151194670383609_1796107483_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ub1xUHIZzUg/ULPxmdC23tI/AAAAAAAATgw/4aflJgbhfWg/s400/603259_10151147030968609_825120385_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ub1xUHIZzUg/ULPxmdC23tI/AAAAAAAATgw/4aflJgbhfWg/s1600/603259_10151147030968609_825120385_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Duncan doing his (S1) at TCA Glasgow's Board Area[/td][/tr]
[/table]
If you wish to join our next Training Team using our Online Dual Factor Programme, then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for start dates.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-7240140109390864055?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Coaching in UK with Mark McGowan of ReAch...6a to 8a (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/coaching-in-uk-with-mark-mcgowan-of.html)
28 November 2012, 11:58 am
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s400/2012-08-25) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s1600/2012-08-25)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for coaching workshops in Scotland, England and sunny Wales focusing on training from 6a to 8a... Please contact him on markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further information.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-58393323557782209?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Coaching in UK with Mark McGowan of ReAch...Training from 6a to 8a in 180 days workshop (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/coaching-in-uk-with-mark-mcgowan-of.html)
28 November 2012, 11:58 am
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s400/2012-08-25) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s1600/2012-08-25)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for coaching workshops in Scotland, England and sunny Wales focusing on training from 6a to 8a in 180 days... Please contact him on markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further information.
"I've had the pleasure of meeting some coaches in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying our training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:
-Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National
Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.
-David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
-Juan Martín Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
-Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.
Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!” (Eva Lopez)"(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-58393323557782209?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Cold Turkey! ReAch January Team... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/12/cold-turkey-reach-january-team.html)
7 December 2012, 4:33 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oN21PxWS7i4/T8H3jq5eL2I/AAAAAAAASK4/mM-EhsH_53o/s640/IMGP0355.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oN21PxWS7i4/T8H3jq5eL2I/AAAAAAAASK4/mM-EhsH_53o/s1600/IMGP0355.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Spanish Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]ReAch are now canvasing for 10 new clients for a January to start on our Online Dual Factor Program (£200 for 4 month online program).
If you wish to join the January Team, then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com and he will arrange to to gather your training information, arrange payment and design your program for a January start ... Cold Turkey!
We have a closing date of 15th of December to allow us to prepare and design the programs for an early January start.
Payment for your program is invoiced via paypal.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2218808365476679307-6354375183536524904?l=reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch Mid January Team... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/12/cold-turkey-reach-january-team.html)
31 December 2012, 1:55 am
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-795GdTSw4a4/Tvo9_o1VaNI/AAAAAAAAPRs/_OmHMnThyVs/s400/IMG02952-20111227-1608.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-795GdTSw4a4/Tvo9_o1VaNI/AAAAAAAAPRs/_OmHMnThyVs/s1600/IMG02952-20111227-1608.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Barcelona [/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZ5V5YdDePg/Tvo96XThFiI/AAAAAAAAPRo/44f2AlHf6Gk/s400/IMG02943-20111227-1505.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZ5V5YdDePg/Tvo96XThFiI/AAAAAAAAPRo/44f2AlHf6Gk/s1600/IMG02943-20111227-1505.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioSVfrBBiS8/Tvo-QoCbAjI/AAAAAAAAPR4/KwResY8WEqI/s400/IMG02960-20111227-1732.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ioSVfrBBiS8/Tvo-QoCbAjI/AAAAAAAAPR4/KwResY8WEqI/s1600/IMG02960-20111227-1732.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wcg69YhlKR0/TxmV5emRj4I/AAAAAAAAQ8I/t3L3FHt0Dhw/s400/406642_10150575060071719_588236718_11019086_1423798342_n+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wcg69YhlKR0/TxmV5emRj4I/AAAAAAAAQ8I/t3L3FHt0Dhw/s1600/406642_10150575060071719_588236718_11019086_1423798342_n+%25281%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Winter at Montserrat, Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]ReAch are now canvasing for 10 new clients for Mid January to start on our Online Dual Factor Program (£200 for 4 month online program). If you climb from between 6a to 7c and are looking for the potential to train and substantially improve over 4 months with a personal program and online support, then please contact us to join the Team.
If you wish to join the Mid January Team, then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (%20markmcgowan01@gmail.com) and he will arrange to to gather your training information, arrange payment and design your program.
We have a closing date of 10th of January to allow us to prepare and design the programs .
Payment for your program is invoiced via paypal.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mhY8yeMZHPs/TxmYEx5GpTI/AAAAAAAAPbo/kX8UrYDR-OI/s400/IMG03091-20120105-1117.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mhY8yeMZHPs/TxmYEx5GpTI/AAAAAAAAPbo/kX8UrYDR-OI/s1600/IMG03091-20120105-1117.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lleida, Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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A New Year... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-new-year.html)
2 January 2013, 7:42 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRyNQeECb14/T3ecWBdLlfI/AAAAAAAAQx8/TnqBN5g2YUc/s400/539679_10150702554718609_737988608_9241309_449349120_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tRyNQeECb14/T3ecWBdLlfI/AAAAAAAAQx8/TnqBN5g2YUc/s1600/539679_10150702554718609_737988608_9241309_449349120_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bolting in Gozo[/td][/tr]
[/table]
A new year brings new motivations, new ideas and new inspirations...
2012 was exciting (good and bad) with adventures to places unexpected such as the Midi Pyrenees, new routes on Gozo Island, Coaching again in Spain for the Mountaineering Council Of Scotland at Siurana... Working a 28m roof and learning new things about climbing and myself that I never knew before.
There was only a three week period in the whole year that I managed to train near my TRUE physical and professional limit... In the Pyrenees ... Maybe make that 4 this year!
... There was 3 months at my mental limit ... In the Pyrenees... So I am stronger.
... Plans for 2013... Get inspired, climb rocks, make new friends, try harder.
... Happy New Year my climbing friends!
Mark
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Giving Back... A12 year old ambition... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/01/giving-back-a12-year-old-ambition.html)
12 January 2013, 9:25 pm
I started climbing when I was 12 years old and bouldered on my own mostly on a 12ft sandstone wall in Blantyre, near Glasgow on and off till I was about 19. Then Scotland's first bouldering wall was built in the Kelvin Hall Sports Centre by a company called Bendcrete Climbing Walls. My girlfriend and I moved into a flat immediately in the street next door to the wall coincidentally called Blantyre Street...
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ICWNLh5Glmo/S7iOuTyK8XI/AAAAAAAACSI/4HcGmF4LyYY/s400/IMG00205-20100404-1401.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Blantyre Wall[/td][/tr]
[/table]I trained on the wall 4 days on, 1 day off for 4 months, right through Christmas then entered the UK Open Climbing Competition and came 5th.
Later I was kindly awarded a Talented Sports Performance Award by the MCofS, given £250 towards travelling round the European International Competition circuit and a free entry to the Kelvin Hall Climbing Wall for a year...
There was no coaching then and perhaps with coaching I may have made the British Team ( I missed it by one place, John Arran got it I think - well done him I say. I should have trained or tried harder, or tried less hard and been more relaxed, which one was it? At the time I was happy with 5th as I was the top of the Scottish climbers, enjoyed a curry in London with the best Scottish Climber and his girlfriend and got on the night bus back to Glasgow and slept in the doorway of Nevisport (where I worked) until the boss arrived to open the shop. I got sponsored by Cassin that week.. with ropes harnesses, anything I wanted, that they made was mine. It felt amazing. I had worked hard on my own and got shown some appreciation back.
I was recently inspired by a friend's young daughter who is 12 who has already achieved phenomenal results off her and her fathers own back, with limited help and it made me realise that they should be getting more help. Already her achievements have been outstanding for her age:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bs7RvjqxsfM/UPCek_5cEoI/AAAAAAAATlM/Ic6kJzXr5wI/s400/3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bs7RvjqxsfM/UPCek_5cEoI/AAAAAAAATlM/Ic6kJzXr5wI/s1600/3.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F1H840xqtT0/UPCelPUvmoI/AAAAAAAATlI/3-TTU6O71lY/s400/1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F1H840xqtT0/UPCelPUvmoI/AAAAAAAATlI/3-TTU6O71lY/s1600/1.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-doiUz13_pk4/UPCek80XP2I/AAAAAAAATlE/ngYLQl6hDn0/s400/2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-doiUz13_pk4/UPCek80XP2I/AAAAAAAATlE/ngYLQl6hDn0/s1600/2.jpg)
Rhiannon Freireich (Age 12)
- Climbing for 3 years
- Hardest Redpoint : Indoor 7b, Outdoor 7a
- Hardest Onsight : Indoor 7a, Outdoor 6c+
- Boulder font 7a
- Currently Scottish Champion in routes, boulder and speed and 2nd overall in UK for two consecutive years
But something stood out when I received her profile, something I knew about:
" Long Term Goals: Climb for the British Team and be the youngest Scottish female to climb 8a"
I wasn't female! I hope not! But I knew about trying for the British Team and being the youngest Scottish Climber to climb 8a.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZfZqGZiD_s/UPCemY2HabI/AAAAAAAATlY/4yc-6bz7mv0/s400/5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QZfZqGZiD_s/UPCemY2HabI/AAAAAAAATlY/4yc-6bz7mv0/s1600/5.jpg)
So I have decided to see if ReAch can try and help young Rhiannon and her father with their quest to help her be the best she can be, and these things are:
- Coaching (From Me and Johnny Dawes - he doesn't know it yet!)
- Equipment Sponsorship, especially (HELP!)
- Financial Support from Governing Bodies (HELP!)
If you can HELP, then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com ...
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Join our ReAch Feb Team... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/01/join-our-reach-feb-team.html)
16 January 2013, 4:56 pm
We are recruiting for early February Team to join our Online Dual Factor training program for 4 months.
Training consistently is not easy, and that's what makes the program more successful. By having someone, keeping an eye and advising where possible, provides a greater incentive to be constant.
When I came back to climbing in 2010, I was worried I wouldn't stay the course at the level of intensity I wanted to achieve my own goal (6a to 8a in 6 months). It was tough but luckily I was sufficiently crazy! But by writing my own training diary and researching my way through the process it lead to the development of our Online DF Program that is now used at ReAch. If you train consistently with structure then you will improve...
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSbNC1M_dQ/T4fWCYIDHNI/AAAAAAAAREk/D3_okmRXqZs/s400/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSbNC1M_dQ/T4fWCYIDHNI/AAAAAAAAREk/D3_okmRXqZs/s1600/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Coaching 1:1 in Siurana, Spain with MCofS kids[/td][/tr]
[/table]
You will have access to training information documents as well as your own online program, monitored by Mark to help support you during the training period.
The cost is £200.00 for the 4 month program.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PN9pGGbiPCo/TxsN_ar3NWI/AAAAAAAAPcQ/vdgxdDy_MDE/s400/396900_10150617415648203_786038202_11358094_2116832687_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PN9pGGbiPCo/TxsN_ar3NWI/AAAAAAAAPcQ/vdgxdDy_MDE/s1600/396900_10150617415648203_786038202_11358094_2116832687_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]ReAch member Amanda Lyons training at
Ratho, Edinburgh, Scotland
(Photo:Stuart Stronach )[/td][/tr]
[/table]If you climb between 6a and 7c and are looking to improve your sport climbing fitness using our Dual Factor Online Program, then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange your place on the program. We now have climbers training with us from UK, Canada, Spain, So join us and be the best you cane be ...
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recovery... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/02/recovery.html)
14 February 2013, 4:52 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d9NVNtVjzlw/UR0Tb1BTNYI/AAAAAAAAToo/IHaxbxcmHQk/s400/IMG_8402.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d9NVNtVjzlw/UR0Tb1BTNYI/AAAAAAAAToo/IHaxbxcmHQk/s1600/IMG_8402.JPG)
Been training at the Beacon Climbing Centre (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/2/1/climbing-centre/) in North Wales, where I am beginning the path back to fitness again after a few months recovery in Scotland after returning from the Pyrenees. It seems to take a few visits to relax properly at a new training venue and begin to get the best from oneself on lead. Each week brings small progressive steps towards last years fitness. First session began with a 6c fail on the last move, 2nd then progressed to a 7a, then a 7a in approach shoes a few sessions later and now I am completely hooked on working sessions on a great 7c+ to try and get into a power endurance environment again. Applying the tactics I learned last year where one concentrates on the volume/number of working sessions on a route above your standard as the training objective to build some power endurance. I am not yet 7c+ fit but have got up to 3 goes on the route on the last sessions, so aiming for 4 will by default lift my PE and later, an accidental red point! Then move maximal finger strength up a notch then change to a harder environment again.
Climbing on lead feels different this year with less angst and much more relaxed approach focusing on each move with less noise or ambition getting in the way of what I feel will be my most enjoyable years climbing... ever!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BOqM4skaTsI/UR0MROyRSHI/AAAAAAAATog/J3HN-2rJgo4/s400/Ben.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BOqM4skaTsI/UR0MROyRSHI/AAAAAAAATog/J3HN-2rJgo4/s1600/Ben.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ben on the 7a at The Beacon Climbing Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]Ive been coaching a friend Ben on a great 7a at the Beacon and I reckon we will chain it soon. It's great to see someone stretch themselves, but also I am learning from Ben about keeping a high level of fun in climbing as the overriding factor which is reflecting back into my climbing.
Last year I concentrated on increasing flexibility and core and this year I am hoping to focus and change my psychological approach to my climbing and also introduce sports massage support for more effective recovery to maximise each session for a great summer in North Wales. More on that next...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recovery... Part 1. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/02/recovery.html)
14 February 2013, 4:52 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DLwQLYUV1JU/UR1JPxDYX0I/AAAAAAAATpQ/4wPBJC80rfs/s400/002.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DLwQLYUV1JU/UR1JPxDYX0I/AAAAAAAATpQ/4wPBJC80rfs/s1600/002.JPG)
Been training at the Beacon Climbing Centre (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/2/1/climbing-centre/) in North Wales, where I am beginning the path back to fitness again after a few months recovery in Scotland after returning from the Pyrenees. It seems to take a few visits to relax properly at a new training venue and begin to get the best from oneself on lead. Each week brings small progressive steps towards last years fitness. First session began with a 6c fail on the last move, 2nd then progressed to a 7a, then a 7a in approach shoes a few sessions later and now I am completely hooked on working sessions on a great 7c+ to try and get into a power endurance environment again.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d9NVNtVjzlw/UR0Tb1BTNYI/AAAAAAAAToo/IHaxbxcmHQk/s400/IMG_8402.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d9NVNtVjzlw/UR0Tb1BTNYI/AAAAAAAAToo/IHaxbxcmHQk/s1600/IMG_8402.JPG)
Applying the tactics I learned last year where one concentrates on the volume/number of working sessions on a route above your standard as the training objective to build some power endurance. I am not yet 7c+ fit but have got up to 3 goes on the route on the last sessions, so aiming for 4 will by default lift my PE and later, an accidental red point! Then move maximal finger strength up a notch then change to a harder environment again.
Climbing on lead feels different this year with less angst and much more relaxed approach focusing on each move with less noise or ambition getting in the way of what I feel will be my most enjoyable years climbing... ever!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BOqM4skaTsI/UR0MROyRSHI/AAAAAAAATog/J3HN-2rJgo4/s400/Ben.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BOqM4skaTsI/UR0MROyRSHI/AAAAAAAATog/J3HN-2rJgo4/s1600/Ben.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ben on the 7a at The Beacon Climbing Centre[/td][/tr]
[/table]Ive been coaching a friend Ben on a great 7a at the Beacon and I reckon we will chain it soon. It's great to see someone stretch themselves, but also I am learning from Ben about keeping a high level of fun in climbing as the overriding factor which is reflecting back into my climbing.
Last year I concentrated on increasing flexibility and core and this year I am hoping to focus and change my psychological approach to my climbing and also introduce sports massage support for more effective recovery to maximise each session for a great summer in North Wales. More on that next...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Welsh Rock Trad Program with 1:1 Coaching in North Wales: Welsh Classics from VS to E5 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/03/welsh-rock-trad-program-with-11.html)
7 March 2013, 5:37 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ck1BumwjbQE/USXwMNcHVZI/AAAAAAAATqA/45LmwOUhNxM/s400/045.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ck1BumwjbQE/USXwMNcHVZI/AAAAAAAATqA/45LmwOUhNxM/s1600/045.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Welsh Rock[/td][/tr]
[/table]After 25 years away from Welsh Trad, it was great to get back into things with a gentle introduction with friends at Holyhead Mountain on a lovely sunny Welsh day along the coast of Gogarth. In 1985 as a young 16 year old, I climbed amazing classics around the Snowdonia National Park such as the Right and Left Walls of the Cromlech (E5 & E3), The classic headwall crackline of Cream on Tremadog (E4), Dream of White Horses HVS on Gogarth and Comes the Dervish E3 on slate all in the same week... I was so inspired by these climbs that I moved to Wales that year. |
| Cordelia Molloy at Holyhead Mountain, North Wales |
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LtDfFanDhWI/USXwa-cxsZI/AAAAAAAATqs/jb5tgiTmU00/s400/051.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LtDfFanDhWI/USXwa-cxsZI/AAAAAAAATqs/jb5tgiTmU00/s1600/051.JPG) |
| Ben Ram on Holyhead Mountain, North Wales |
|
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsfA42U2VL8/USXwTte07JI/AAAAAAAATqQ/qQuN-H5TcK8/s400/049.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gsfA42U2VL8/USXwTte07JI/AAAAAAAATqQ/qQuN-H5TcK8/s1600/049.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Cordelia Molloy (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/204/1/sports-massage)at Holyhead Mountain, North Wales[/td][/tr]
[/table]
I'm back having done some 'stuff ' in the last 25 years and have decided to relearn these classics and coach and design a program that finishes with ascents of the Welsh Trad Classics:
The Program will consist of:- 6 week training/conditioning online program (£75)
- Option of 3 seperate days of 1:1 Trad coaching at location of choice (can be split over weeks if required) (£125 per day)
- 3 week training program designed around climb of choice (£50)
- 1 days coaching on objective Trad route of choice (£150)
If you would like further information on the Welsh Rock Trad Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uQ-gyA63SE0/USXwagb0otI/AAAAAAAATqo/gY-jimlfJNo/s400/052.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uQ-gyA63SE0/USXwagb0otI/AAAAAAAATqo/gY-jimlfJNo/s1600/052.JPG)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Over excited on Welsh Trad after 25 years away![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ak7aiSgi-CY/ThbGHTMQvTI/AAAAAAAANs0/oQEmLgBIjEU/s400/269481_10150230980838310_696178309_7358694_5054008_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ak7aiSgi-CY/ThbGHTMQvTI/AAAAAAAANs0/oQEmLgBIjEU/s1600/269481_10150230980838310_696178309_7358694_5054008_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]3rd Ascent of For Whom The Bell Tolls E6 (1985)[/td][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHNF_om_W7w/TV05cjv39MI/AAAAAAAAKH4/bJnUPxq3oaE/s400/face+and+I.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHNF_om_W7w/TV05cjv39MI/AAAAAAAAKH4/bJnUPxq3oaE/s1600/face+and+I.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Chimp & I (age 17) outside Pete's Eats 1985.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lqk6SIS_nuY/TG6cCKe80RI/AAAAAAAAPdI/rxALlyjIa7Q/s400/IMG02104-20100820-1503.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lqk6SIS_nuY/TG6cCKe80RI/AAAAAAAAPdI/rxALlyjIa7Q/s1600/IMG02104-20100820-1503.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]2nd Ascent of Art Groupie E6, North Stack Wall (1988)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering in Ogwen, North Wales... It was good! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/03/bouldering-in-ogwen-north-wales-it-was.html)
9 March 2013, 6:59 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-38xgB_BXBkI/UTuFYKibksI/AAAAAAAATtU/2FxFTe652lw/s400/012.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-38xgB_BXBkI/UTuFYKibksI/AAAAAAAATtU/2FxFTe652lw/s1600/012.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i5riAj-S6Yw/UTuFbItWBOI/AAAAAAAATtc/agSpGH8UA2E/s400/010.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i5riAj-S6Yw/UTuFbItWBOI/AAAAAAAATtc/agSpGH8UA2E/s1600/010.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wr3vnI2n9z4/UTuFgK1yrpI/AAAAAAAATtk/lPKn9QpijoI/s400/013.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wr3vnI2n9z4/UTuFgK1yrpI/AAAAAAAATtk/lPKn9QpijoI/s1600/013.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mah5KvqeSsc/UTuFklT20dI/AAAAAAAATts/psWE9SMGLOw/s400/014.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mah5KvqeSsc/UTuFklT20dI/AAAAAAAATts/psWE9SMGLOw/s1600/014.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SG6iBS3pzuE/UTuFoFXxE5I/AAAAAAAATt0/-86S-9lPtXQ/s400/016.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SG6iBS3pzuE/UTuFoFXxE5I/AAAAAAAATt0/-86S-9lPtXQ/s1600/016.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FTSQBvsfhjI/UTuFp-77IrI/AAAAAAAATt8/QkvyPKZWrIg/s400/015.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FTSQBvsfhjI/UTuFp-77IrI/AAAAAAAATt8/QkvyPKZWrIg/s1600/015.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0RiefCmwR5c/UTuFsnCapcI/AAAAAAAATuE/8HymUfTpHjg/s400/019.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0RiefCmwR5c/UTuFsnCapcI/AAAAAAAATuE/8HymUfTpHjg/s1600/019.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6dWJiMqB2To/UTuF1vxWUdI/AAAAAAAATuM/hTG4n1FJz4Y/s400/026.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6dWJiMqB2To/UTuF1vxWUdI/AAAAAAAATuM/hTG4n1FJz4Y/s1600/026.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FDnltWQ4arU/UTuF8CYN0ZI/AAAAAAAATuU/ytn2YekvAng/s400/028.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FDnltWQ4arU/UTuF8CYN0ZI/AAAAAAAATuU/ytn2YekvAng/s1600/028.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IpCZuZuc-d0/UTuF9-7rNgI/AAAAAAAATuc/SxJA_PKCfWA/s400/030.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IpCZuZuc-d0/UTuF9-7rNgI/AAAAAAAATuc/SxJA_PKCfWA/s1600/030.JPG)
... It was good!
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Set some routes at the Beacon... it was good! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/03/set-some-routes-at-beacon-it-was-good.html)
14 March 2013, 8:59 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xmwp3xZBYF8/UUI4jF6lZLI/AAAAAAAATvA/GnkdqRRA5Xk/s400/028.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xmwp3xZBYF8/UUI4jF6lZLI/AAAAAAAATvA/GnkdqRRA5Xk/s1600/028.JPG)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tycsn9HKT78/UUI4kC-jtMI/AAAAAAAATvQ/PRXvwN9bou0/s400/027.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tycsn9HKT78/UUI4kC-jtMI/AAAAAAAATvQ/PRXvwN9bou0/s1600/027.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Beacon (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/2/1/climbing-centre/)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
... It was good!
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Johnny Dawes - Master Class en The Climb (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/04/johnny-dawes-master-class-en-climb.html)
25 April 2013, 10:59 pm
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Systems Training (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/05/systems-training.html)
23 May 2013, 8:51 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWG9nwwBwe8/UZ55_lH1OoI/AAAAAAAAT_U/3BG3_kVrnWc/s400/063.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TWG9nwwBwe8/UZ55_lH1OoI/AAAAAAAAT_U/3BG3_kVrnWc/s1600/063.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]System set at the Beacon Climbing Centre, Wales[/td][/tr]
[/table] Started training again using a system that I used to try and maximise my time when I had 6 weeks to get as much Power Endurance as I could for the BLCC's a year ago. It consists of building maximal strength for the fingers using borderline grip types with little distance between them to maximise the focus on the finger loading and contact strength before the natural progression towards PE is achieved by default. Finishes with campus sets on jugs once the fingers are drained to build more power across the back and shoulder girdle.
Started today at the Beacon Climbing Centre (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/2/1/climbing-centre/)where I trained for an hour on the system then nearly fell off every easy route I tried after just an hour on the system. So it works ... For me!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xFQtpGLa_Y/UZ55nQHsqDI/AAAAAAAAT-U/CbGquFlc1ms/s400/055.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xFQtpGLa_Y/UZ55nQHsqDI/AAAAAAAAT-U/CbGquFlc1ms/s1600/055.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Owen Jones trying out my system[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mxM4SkMae4E/UZ55YxGZ74I/AAAAAAAAT-E/dl8TwiafNzs/s400/053.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mxM4SkMae4E/UZ55YxGZ74I/AAAAAAAAT-E/dl8TwiafNzs/s1600/053.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PpfNyjQk_xM/UZ55Il5J05I/AAAAAAAAT9k/dKw91Z1h784/s400/049.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PpfNyjQk_xM/UZ55Il5J05I/AAAAAAAAT9k/dKw91Z1h784/s1600/049.JPG)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Roof routes.... Getting Grotty! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/06/roof-routes-getting-grotty.html)
15 June 2013, 12:00 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVTJwGlwNe4/Ubw4gwkO-vI/AAAAAAAAUAE/ZdbOhveCAMk/s400/Beacon+Routing+Roof+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVTJwGlwNe4/Ubw4gwkO-vI/AAAAAAAAUAE/ZdbOhveCAMk/s1600/Beacon+Routing+Roof+1.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hz4T3pDIlPI/Ubw4gzpqnUI/AAAAAAAAUAI/RjSbWEi5W-4/s400/Beacon+Routing+Roof+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hz4T3pDIlPI/Ubw4gzpqnUI/AAAAAAAAUAI/RjSbWEi5W-4/s1600/Beacon+Routing+Roof+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Beacon Climbing Walls new 'routing roof'[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Awaiting the completion of the new plastic training cave in Wales, which is nearly finished, is like waiting on Santa! In a few days it will be complete with 15m of upside downess, a lick of paint and some bat cave route setting to follow... hopefully without the bat shit. Can't wait!
8a at the Grotte De Sabart, Pyrenees
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Roof routes.... Getting Grotty at The Beacon! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/06/roof-routes-getting-grotty.html)
15 June 2013, 12:00 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVTJwGlwNe4/Ubw4gwkO-vI/AAAAAAAAUAE/ZdbOhveCAMk/s400/Beacon+Routing+Roof+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SVTJwGlwNe4/Ubw4gwkO-vI/AAAAAAAAUAE/ZdbOhveCAMk/s1600/Beacon+Routing+Roof+1.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hz4T3pDIlPI/Ubw4gzpqnUI/AAAAAAAAUAI/RjSbWEi5W-4/s400/Beacon+Routing+Roof+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hz4T3pDIlPI/Ubw4gzpqnUI/AAAAAAAAUAI/RjSbWEi5W-4/s1600/Beacon+Routing+Roof+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Beacon Climbing Walls new 'routing roof'[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Awaiting the completion of the new plastic training cave in Wales, which is nearly finished, is like waiting on Santa! In a few days it will be complete with 15m of upside downess, a lick of paint and some bat cave route setting to follow... hopefully without the bat shit. Can't wait!
(Videos by Craig Smith)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recovery Part 2... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/04/recovery-part-2.html)
18 June 2013, 7:12 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yj2jOGY67yI/UUWxcq0fhGI/AAAAAAAATwk/ArTebHwmGZs/s400/3900_10151260489218609_507299770_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yj2jOGY67yI/UUWxcq0fhGI/AAAAAAAATwk/ArTebHwmGZs/s1600/3900_10151260489218609_507299770_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stepped Recovery...[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Since returning back to the UK from Spain/France in December and moving back to Wales in January, I have been just ticking over really and concentrating on more personal well being than driving any training objectives. With the addition of the new Routing Roof it seems some new psyche has been sparked to train more consistently. Getting back to full fitness usually takes about 3 cycles of 6 week training blocks, so that takes me to around October, which is cool... Literally...cooler!
Integrating sports massage into my training is part of my plan to try and avoid injury and speed recovery...
"Combining sport massage as part of your training can significantly reduce the risks of overuse injuries and also aids recovery by reducing muscle fatigue. For climbers really looking to optimize performance, resting for appropriate lengths of time between climbing sessions and body conditioning, are incredibly important (and often overlooked) aspects of any training schedule. If you are already suffering from muscle fatigue or specific climbing related injuries such as sore shoulders, sports massage is an incredibly effective method of relieving fatigue and injuries, allowing you to achieve a high level of performance".
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7Kq5TG6yIM/UUWxXxrJyPI/AAAAAAAATwI/lU0UhrlzIhg/s400/Massage+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z7Kq5TG6yIM/UUWxXxrJyPI/AAAAAAAATwI/lU0UhrlzIhg/s1600/Massage+1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Massaging forearm flexors (Photo C. Molloy (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/204/1/sports-massage))[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Professional, effective sports and remedial massage for relief from stress and tension, muscle and joint pain, injury rehabilitation and prevention, improved flexibility and recovery.
Consultation and treatment £40
Clinic at the Beacon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, and appointments available at other times.
Call Cordelia on 07951 448 669 to book an appointment
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sqqozPiRqbY/UUWxYND3hII/AAAAAAAATwE/Ky3tZ_4Wzas/s200/cord+logo.jpg) (http://www.beaconclimbing.com/section.php/204/1/sports-massage)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Em1WS5P-fIY/UUWxaONAIQI/AAAAAAAATwc/UQ1aWdqdR5I/s200/Beacon+Climbing+Centre+Logo.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Em1WS5P-fIY/UUWxaONAIQI/AAAAAAAATwc/UQ1aWdqdR5I/s1600/Beacon+Climbing+Centre+Logo.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch Training Program starting soon... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/06/reach-training-program-starting-soon.html)
22 June 2013, 7:09 pm
We are looking to recruit 10 members for our online training program based around 3 blocks of 6 week training periods beginning soon.
The program will focus on a periodized peak for an Autumn sport climbing project. The plan will be to run 3 separate 6 week training blocks based around MAXIMAL STRENGTH to POWER to POWER ENDURANCE.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XnkEccNlqCg/ToSyCa3NsNI/AAAAAAAAOiM/_ozaxuAW-Ss/s400/IMG02586-20110929-1616.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XnkEccNlqCg/ToSyCa3NsNI/AAAAAAAAOiM/_ozaxuAW-Ss/s1600/IMG02586-20110929-1616.jpg)
If you are interested in joining the team then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com before mid July to allow us to design your interactive online program.
Each 6 week block is priced at £75 and 1:1 training sessions at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales are also available at £50 for 90 minute training session. The focus of the 1:1 will be to guide you through the training processes and motivate to maximize the session.
If you climb between 6a to 7c and are looking to work for a marked improvement then email Mark McGowan to begin.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kUCm2srobJA/TQvx7uRXI2I/AAAAAAAAPes/h-Rla1VmMYY/s400/Fullscreen+capture+17122010+231937.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kUCm2srobJA/TQvx7uRXI2I/AAAAAAAAPes/h-Rla1VmMYY/s1600/Fullscreen+capture+17122010+231937.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Malcolm on Blood Diamond (8c+) Anvil, Scotland (Video Still,)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2W6HaLX--gM/TRtnR1KXdaI/AAAAAAAAPes/8_mX0xVnaQw/s200/Fullscreen+capture+29122010+165108.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2W6HaLX--gM/TRtnR1KXdaI/AAAAAAAAPes/8_mX0xVnaQw/s1600/Fullscreen+capture+29122010+165108.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KWx0-WSquC0/UFtgAWVsBMI/AAAAAAAAS4I/eaAc6l6u6Us/s400/306160_10150925857608609_306287785_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KWx0-WSquC0/UFtgAWVsBMI/AAAAAAAAS4I/eaAc6l6u6Us/s1600/306160_10150925857608609_306287785_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bouldering in Ariege [/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yPcIBxTtZoE/ULPxN8Q6-XI/AAAAAAAATeY/5_Esogos8Yc/s400/178396_10151294226791115_810409082_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yPcIBxTtZoE/ULPxN8Q6-XI/AAAAAAAATeY/5_Esogos8Yc/s1600/178396_10151294226791115_810409082_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td] Gozo Island (Video Still,)[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xmwp3xZBYF8/UUI4jF6lZLI/AAAAAAAATvE/YrsAP_xsDaE/s400/028.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xmwp3xZBYF8/UUI4jF6lZLI/AAAAAAAATvE/YrsAP_xsDaE/s1600/028.JPG)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--uPchtB_IyU/UZ55qOzqAZI/AAAAAAAAT-c/eoEdxP_F4I0/s400/056.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--uPchtB_IyU/UZ55qOzqAZI/AAAAAAAAT-c/eoEdxP_F4I0/s1600/056.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Systems Training[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto ... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/07/programa-de-entrenamiento-de-partida.html)
2 July 2013, 11:44 am
El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcafdiB_qw8/Tvo9cxD84AI/AAAAAAAAPRM/unSOPnQ11FY/s400/IMG02932-20111226-1319.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcafdiB_qw8/Tvo9cxD84AI/AAAAAAAAPRM/unSOPnQ11FY/s1600/IMG02932-20111226-1319.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAL3KIzrgBg/Tvo9xzBF_CI/AAAAAAAAPRg/LCe938aVbCc/s400/IMG02940-20111226-1454.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAL3KIzrgBg/Tvo9xzBF_CI/AAAAAAAAPRg/LCe938aVbCc/s1600/IMG02940-20111226-1454.jpg)
Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com (markmcgowan01@gmail.com)antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hXCZUKllkNg/Tvo9lEG3ljI/AAAAAAAAPRY/s5RSDMAROKc/s400/IMG02938-20111226-1436.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hXCZUKllkNg/Tvo9lEG3ljI/AAAAAAAAPRY/s5RSDMAROKc/s1600/IMG02938-20111226-1436.jpg)
Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
-
Programa de Entrenamiento de partida pronto (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/07/programa-de-entrenamiento-de-partida.html)
2 July 2013, 11:44 am
El programa se centrará en un pico de periodización para un proyecto de escalada deportiva de otoño. El plan será el de ejecutar a 3 cuadras de capacitación 6 semanas separadas en torno a la fuerza máxima para encendido para resistencia a la potencia.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcafdiB_qw8/Tvo9cxD84AI/AAAAAAAAPRM/unSOPnQ11FY/s400/IMG02932-20111226-1319.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EcafdiB_qw8/Tvo9cxD84AI/AAAAAAAAPRM/unSOPnQ11FY/s1600/IMG02932-20111226-1319.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAL3KIzrgBg/Tvo9xzBF_CI/AAAAAAAAPRg/LCe938aVbCc/s400/IMG02940-20111226-1454.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GAL3KIzrgBg/Tvo9xzBF_CI/AAAAAAAAPRg/LCe938aVbCc/s1600/IMG02940-20111226-1454.jpg)
Si usted está interesado en formar parte del equipo póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com (markmcgowan01@gmail.com)antes de mediados de julio para permitir a diseñar su programa en línea interactivo. Cada bloque de 6 semanas tiene un precio de 75 euros y 01:01 sesiones de entrenamiento en el Centro de Escalada Beacon en el norte de Gales también se encuentran disponibles en 50 euros por sesión de entrenamiento de 90 minutos. El enfoque de la 1:01 será guiar a través de los procesos de formación y motivar al máximo la sesión.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hXCZUKllkNg/Tvo9lEG3ljI/AAAAAAAAPRY/s5RSDMAROKc/s400/IMG02938-20111226-1436.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hXCZUKllkNg/Tvo9lEG3ljI/AAAAAAAAPRY/s5RSDMAROKc/s1600/IMG02938-20111226-1436.jpg)
Si tu esalando entre 6a hasta 7c y está buscando a trabajar para una notable mejora después email Mark McGowan empezar.
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Venga Animal (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/07/venga-animal.html)
26 July 2013, 7:06 pm
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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A Dream of White Horses... "Just so you know!" (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/07/a-dream-of-white-horses-just-so-you-know.html)
28 July 2013, 9:55 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iicGujs2pmE/UfTpRCjxyjI/AAAAAAAAUEI/OvfF1Iwv6VQ/s400/71418_10151738003178609_1574589277_n+(1).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iicGujs2pmE/UfTpRCjxyjI/AAAAAAAAUEI/OvfF1Iwv6VQ/s1600/71418_10151738003178609_1574589277_n+(1).jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21p7I6wwamY/UfTpSOWlBUI/AAAAAAAAUEU/zZ9dXvUSSYU/s400/71418_10151738003178609_1574589277_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-21p7I6wwamY/UfTpSOWlBUI/AAAAAAAAUEU/zZ9dXvUSSYU/s1600/71418_10151738003178609_1574589277_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-icXfv7p12k4/UfTpPfnvSmI/AAAAAAAAUDc/mF75seoydaQ/s400/526813_10151738001833609_807119666_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-icXfv7p12k4/UfTpPfnvSmI/AAAAAAAAUDc/mF75seoydaQ/s1600/526813_10151738001833609_807119666_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-halcVZnSkb8/UfTpP1FpoqI/AAAAAAAAUDo/ZzbekOz0O3A/s400/536578_10151738002828609_507999495_n+(1).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-halcVZnSkb8/UfTpP1FpoqI/AAAAAAAAUDo/ZzbekOz0O3A/s1600/536578_10151738002828609_507999495_n+(1).jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nN3Lv7klYo/UfTpPpw5DXI/AAAAAAAAUDg/q9HH44OYGSk/s400/536578_10151738002828609_507999495_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--nN3Lv7klYo/UfTpPpw5DXI/AAAAAAAAUDg/q9HH44OYGSk/s1600/536578_10151738002828609_507999495_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bFWsKgI2C5w/UfTpQQCe4dI/AAAAAAAAUDw/zIhqjVvtb9k/s400/547099_10151738001303609_1650572701_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bFWsKgI2C5w/UfTpQQCe4dI/AAAAAAAAUDw/zIhqjVvtb9k/s1600/547099_10151738001303609_1650572701_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xbC6YBebI00/UfTpQwTPMMI/AAAAAAAAUEA/i7WtpalZX4k/s400/552602_10151738003238609_1403794330_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xbC6YBebI00/UfTpQwTPMMI/AAAAAAAAUEA/i7WtpalZX4k/s1600/552602_10151738003238609_1403794330_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OTVpt7uGBkk/UfTpQ6wGxUI/AAAAAAAAUD4/i4yKd85N8lg/s400/602703_10151738002458609_996349270_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OTVpt7uGBkk/UfTpQ6wGxUI/AAAAAAAAUD4/i4yKd85N8lg/s1600/602703_10151738002458609_996349270_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fl3Vasg3cAo/UfTpSWu2ZSI/AAAAAAAAUEY/Cl6nWKqs2WI/s400/935095_10151738003148609_745332732_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fl3Vasg3cAo/UfTpSWu2ZSI/AAAAAAAAUEY/Cl6nWKqs2WI/s1600/935095_10151738003148609_745332732_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-perLnJuMs6c/UfTpSzPatjI/AAAAAAAAUEk/MGOq79KP4rA/s400/970620_10151738003008609_759299311_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-perLnJuMs6c/UfTpSzPatjI/AAAAAAAAUEk/MGOq79KP4rA/s1600/970620_10151738003008609_759299311_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3RCp5WJ4GM8/UfTpTis4uKI/AAAAAAAAUEw/N3e8oIJw8z4/s400/971877_10151738002223609_576475881_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3RCp5WJ4GM8/UfTpTis4uKI/AAAAAAAAUEw/N3e8oIJw8z4/s1600/971877_10151738002223609_576475881_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RDkF6BM4GYY/UfTpTyr4OgI/AAAAAAAAUE4/NKIJnt-f8yU/s400/999060_10151738001298609_1238254709_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RDkF6BM4GYY/UfTpTyr4OgI/AAAAAAAAUE4/NKIJnt-f8yU/s1600/999060_10151738001298609_1238254709_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJHsLlX7NG8/UfTpLhckSLI/AAAAAAAAUC4/WIN2moCz1jM/s400/1000869_10151738003408609_476551870_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eJHsLlX7NG8/UfTpLhckSLI/AAAAAAAAUC4/WIN2moCz1jM/s1600/1000869_10151738003408609_476551870_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OKoyVnIGP8A/UfTpLldvV-I/AAAAAAAAUC8/Wr7jsYlFrP0/s400/1002863_10151738002628609_2107825956_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OKoyVnIGP8A/UfTpLldvV-I/AAAAAAAAUC8/Wr7jsYlFrP0/s1600/1002863_10151738002628609_2107825956_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ya4Wp-5OmWA/UfTpOXANUrI/AAAAAAAAUDU/nGTPYZa_iJQ/s400/1005456_10151738003308609_1733328661_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ya4Wp-5OmWA/UfTpOXANUrI/AAAAAAAAUDU/nGTPYZa_iJQ/s1600/1005456_10151738003308609_1733328661_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOvFupGLYoc/UfTpUFO5zCI/AAAAAAAAUFA/50VAn3WKohI/s400/P1020425.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cOvFupGLYoc/UfTpUFO5zCI/AAAAAAAAUFA/50VAn3WKohI/s1600/P1020425.JPG)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Route Setting in the UK (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/08/route-setting-in-uk.html)
30 August 2013, 8:38 pm
[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The New Indy Wall in North Wales[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Mark McGowan is available for route setting in UK
Route setting Experience:- Ratho International Climbing Centre for Bouldering competitions and Scottish Youth Series
- Inverness Climbing Centre for Scottish Youth Series
- The Beacon Climbing Centre for lead routes and Welsh Youth Series
- The Indy Climbing Wall for lead routes
Rate is £12 per hour plus agreed travel costsBased in North WalesContact markmcgowan01@gmail.com
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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New Indy Climbing Wall now open today... Where Barcelona meets North Wales! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/08/new-indy-climbing-wall-now-open-today.html)
31 August 2013, 10:22 am
From this...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g9zAeIUcE1c/UiG9d-PJpMI/AAAAAAAAUIo/iVdkSvGX_io/s400/old+indy.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g9zAeIUcE1c/UiG9d-PJpMI/AAAAAAAAUIo/iVdkSvGX_io/s1600/old+indy.jpg)
To this...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cn-eo26JOjQ/UiG9k1kTt8I/AAAAAAAAUIw/gHc3mxJJUzk/s400/new+indy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Cn-eo26JOjQ/UiG9k1kTt8I/AAAAAAAAUIw/gHc3mxJJUzk/s1600/new+indy.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yqUHxBe4qYQ/UiG_SK2fE_I/AAAAAAAAUI8/beJws2HipZ0/s400/998924_10201804126615043_1375393430_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yqUHxBe4qYQ/UiG_SK2fE_I/AAAAAAAAUI8/beJws2HipZ0/s1600/998924_10201804126615043_1375393430_n.jpg)
The guys and girls at the Indy have managed a great turnaround with their transformation of their climbing centre on Anglesey in North Wales with a new and very steep Power Endurance lead wall that reminded me of a training facility just outside Barcelona that I visited (a very contemporary design!)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLmnNB3a5o8/UiG_aia_UdI/AAAAAAAAUJE/er-cPebG6sA/s400/rob+on+pe+wall.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZLmnNB3a5o8/UiG_aia_UdI/AAAAAAAAUJE/er-cPebG6sA/s1600/rob+on+pe+wall.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The new Power Endurance Wall[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zGqw1xY-vHA/UiG_vcVeSQI/AAAAAAAAUJM/QkDa031Se14/s400/945973_10201937827037470_908266423_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zGqw1xY-vHA/UiG_vcVeSQI/AAAAAAAAUJM/QkDa031Se14/s1600/945973_10201937827037470_908266423_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Rob setting on the new PE wall[/td][/tr]
[/table]
It was great to be involved in both the wall manufacturing (supplied from Beacon Climbing Walls) and finally route setting with Team Indy.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9EGn9rGQKJA/UiHAGPGCrfI/AAAAAAAAUJU/WdM9FxP64DY/s400/1238832_10201946565775933_173215155_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9EGn9rGQKJA/UiHAGPGCrfI/AAAAAAAAUJU/WdM9FxP64DY/s1600/1238832_10201946565775933_173215155_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ckrPjEPY1nA/UiHAKBZu5xI/AAAAAAAAUJg/i8cA5OUnhRI/s400/1240326_10201937824277401_2321053_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ckrPjEPY1nA/UiHAKBZu5xI/AAAAAAAAUJg/i8cA5OUnhRI/s1600/1240326_10201937824277401_2321053_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_LASx4I3mw/UiHAKBKSN7I/AAAAAAAAUJo/S9BoDWzyAmw/s400/1240570_10201933826857468_204836235_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j_LASx4I3mw/UiHAKBKSN7I/AAAAAAAAUJo/S9BoDWzyAmw/s1600/1240570_10201933826857468_204836235_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SKJXYVnqVtI/UiHAKu4FuGI/AAAAAAAAUKA/r2-TohKvI2I/s400/emma+setting+circuits.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SKJXYVnqVtI/UiHAKu4FuGI/AAAAAAAAUKA/r2-TohKvI2I/s1600/emma+setting+circuits.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Emma setting the Circuits Board[/td][/tr]
[/table] The Indy is open right now and I believe a party will ensue... As I look out my window from the valley towards Holyhead I can see it's cloudy outside today, so get down there and enjoy!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iw54ISGEdLQ/UiHAMnfQfpI/AAAAAAAAUKY/RF1YvXewmQw/s400/team+indy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iw54ISGEdLQ/UiHAMnfQfpI/AAAAAAAAUKY/RF1YvXewmQw/s1600/team+indy.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A Stella Job![/td][/tr]
[/table]
View Larger Map (https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en-GB&geocode=&q=Llanfairpwllgwyngyll+LL616NT,+United+Kingdom&aq=0&oq=+LL616NT+Llanfairpwllgwyngyll,+United+Kingdom&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=34.808514,86.572266&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=LL61+6NT,+United+Kingdom&t=m&ll=53.219191,-4.196777&spn=2.302465,4.680176&z=7&iwloc=A)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recruiting for ReAch Online Dual Factor Program beginning October (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/09/recruiting-for-reach-online-dual-factor.html)
21 September 2013, 6:56 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OpnAcRhJKJ4/UOeM2WwBLwI/AAAAAAAATks/DSvvlvjvF4k/s400/1yL3AC9dZjCdGkkaeUxe_WoFXGXopZy4.jpeg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OpnAcRhJKJ4/UOeM2WwBLwI/AAAAAAAATks/DSvvlvjvF4k/s1600/1yL3AC9dZjCdGkkaeUxe_WoFXGXopZy4.jpeg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan on FA on Gozo Island[/td][/tr]
[/table]We are recruiting 5 new clients for our October Team for our 6 week Online Dual Factor Program (English or Spanish speaking). Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (markmcgowan01@gmail.com)to arrange for details. the cost of the program is £100 or 100euros payable via paypal
If you climb between 6a and 7c outdoors and looking to train harder for better results in your sport climbing the get in touch.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irP4uCJNPl4/T4kRxV1bTMI/AAAAAAAARIU/5Yu_bws4uyo/s400/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-irP4uCJNPl4/T4kRxV1bTMI/AAAAAAAARIU/5Yu_bws4uyo/s1600/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Youth Coaching in Siurana, Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Estamos reclutando 5 nuevos clientes para nuestro Equipo de octubre para nuestro programa de Factor dual de en línea 6 semanas (de habla Inglés o español). Por favor, póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com para concertar obtener más información. El costo del programa es de £ 100 o € 100 por pagar a través de PayPal
Si escalando al aire libre entre 6a y 7c y buscan entrenar más duro para obtener mejores resultados en tu deporte de escalada y luego ponerse en contacto.
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Jo Lucas ... 6c to 7c (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/10/jo-lucas-6c-to-7c.html)
3 October 2013, 4:31 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BXsiH1zK2_4/Uk2WtJxjbQI/AAAAAAAAUOo/dWkvxQkLl4A/s400/photo+(1).JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BXsiH1zK2_4/Uk2WtJxjbQI/AAAAAAAAUOo/dWkvxQkLl4A/s1600/photo+(1).JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo sending Silk Teddies (7c)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
I began coaching Jo in August 2011 at Ratho in Edinburgh, then a board session, then onto the full program for two long seasons. We have climbed and trained together in the UK, Spain and the French Pyrenees and it was great to here of her recent news of red pointing two 7c's within a few weeks of each other. Although her previous career was modelling in Tokyo, her ability to train daily and change her body for climbing has been mind blowing.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcM0y9F7Zno/UHL6QKBNNII/AAAAAAAAS58/yPoRgwj3MUY/s400/9.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcM0y9F7Zno/UHL6QKBNNII/AAAAAAAAS58/yPoRgwj3MUY/s1600/9.jpg)[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7HZjEQ1H5n0/ULPxaqD9NmI/AAAAAAAATfc/Knc8eVKfamY/s400/292773_10151194669468609_879173983_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7HZjEQ1H5n0/ULPxaqD9NmI/AAAAAAAATfc/Knc8eVKfamY/s1600/292773_10151194669468609_879173983_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo working an 8a in French Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have never met anyone with such a positive outlook on her life and Jo has always inspired me to try and get the best from my life. Well done Jo, well deserved after 2 years HARD training. And well done to your 'Spaniard' for putting up with it!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sPk41ta4_H0/TvuDbKTtxTI/AAAAAAAAPSI/bs0-cVYp2Pg/s320/IMG02963-20111228-1427.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sPk41ta4_H0/TvuDbKTtxTI/AAAAAAAAPSI/bs0-cVYp2Pg/s1600/IMG02963-20111228-1427.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Alex [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yaPLHem83Ng/Uk2WuGa6oJI/AAAAAAAAUPI/YsSOngu5d_4/s400/photo+(5).JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yaPLHem83Ng/Uk2WuGa6oJI/AAAAAAAAUPI/YsSOngu5d_4/s1600/photo+(5).JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo and Amanda at Dunkeld, Scotland[/td][/tr]
[/table]
... 8a next year? No PRESSURE!...
To join up with ReAch Online Dual Factor Program then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for information. English and Spanish Programs available...
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Training from 6a to 8a in 180 days: workshop (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/11/coaching-in-uk-with-mark-mcgowan-of.html)
6 October 2013, 2:14 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s400/2012-08-25) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5XyADN1TPjU/UDkheMMyMtI/AAAAAAAASss/0LacmRaLocU/s1600/2012-08-25)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Working Reinne De Sabart (8b), Ariege, France[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for coaching workshops in Scotland, England and sunny Wales focusing on the training process and psychological aspects of getting from 6a to 8a in 180 days... Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for further information.
6a to 8a in 180 days Workshop (https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1KPGD4Ra9_3MCcgiRbjzGwd5P7KBY45zWdLPYOD3ofUk)"I've had the pleasure of meeting some coaches in the last few months. Thanks to their interest on trying our training methods and fingerboards, we have started to share information and cooperate in a way that undoubtedly will make all of us progress both as climbers and trainers:
-Carlos Cabrera (Sweden): Coach of Geir Söderin, Matilda Söderlund, Daniel Andersson, Robert Rundin (Sweden National
Climbing Team) and Said Belhaj.
-David Mason (Sheffield, UK): Boulderer (8B Fb) and Assistant British Team Coach.
-Juan Martín Miranda , "Marvin" (Argentina): Personal Climbing Coach and Argentine Team Coach.
-Mark McGowan (Glasgow, UK): Climber, currently working as Personal Climbing Coach at Barcelona, Spain.
Thank everyone, It's a great honour to share experiences with you!” (Eva Lopez)"
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s400/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAAQ8g/GZIRstiFNoU/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Exceptionally empty Headed! (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/10/exceptionally-empty-headed.html)
6 October 2013, 5:17 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H6UEVThogVg/T3ecObsm5QI/AAAAAAAAQvU/yAFjvWJjtIw/s400/292205_10150715370633609_737988608_9286962_370617495_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H6UEVThogVg/T3ecObsm5QI/AAAAAAAAQvU/yAFjvWJjtIw/s1600/292205_10150715370633609_737988608_9286962_370617495_n.jpg)
As someone who took a dose of psychotherapy in the Pyrenees to overcome a less than ordinary and apparently traumatic youth, I am of the belief that the mental aspect of climbing as close to your true personal limit is more important than focusing too much on the minutiae of the training or the apparent tangible goal.
Finding inspiration in climbing for me, has always been about finding the truth in what I am doing and why. The motivation is driven by that single belief that something exceptional can happen and working out what part one needs to play to be part of it. Being open to others and taking inspiration from them to keep you going or closing a little and training alone without interruption from others, can work simultaneously and so I suppose for me, knowing when to do what feels right is the key.
Training obviously needs structure, but the motivation to train hard for sustained periods comes from the mind. Learning more about the interruptions from the mind explained more to me about my erratic performance on rock. Learning to approach climbing with as much focus on being relaxed and as little about performance whilst concise with action in the moment on the climb, is something I have been trying to embed in my psyche for over a year now... A kind of empty headed approach with just one thought of 'UP'!
Recent events have made me look at where climbing fits in to my life and where it shifts around in my personal circumstances. A low self esteem has played a huge part in motivating me to try harder but also been the main inhibitor. But perhaps climbing is less about competing with myself and more about enjoying the minutiae of each move in the moment and let the rest just take care of itself.
I think that coaching and transferring a 'real' motivation to others is directly linked with finding honesty in the situation and dealing with it openly to build trust for tougher times, as they do when trying to do something exceptional. Believing that something exceptional can happen is perhaps the difference that hold things together when the apparent blockages seem un-achievable otherwise, the apparently un-achievable is just allowed to sadly become unbelievable...
Exception: "An action that is not part of ordinary operations or standards."
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FBBGnNNPXA8/UY0xpA4iijI/AAAAAAAAT2E/41do48YnsCs/s400/Montserrat+y+Cordelia+en+Mayo.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FBBGnNNPXA8/UY0xpA4iijI/AAAAAAAAT2E/41do48YnsCs/s1600/Montserrat+y+Cordelia+en+Mayo.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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ReAch Training and Online Documents - 6 Month Membership (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/10/reach-training-and-online-documents-6.html)
18 October 2013, 7:26 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cmmqd3jMRs8/TCTXslJy8jI/AAAAAAAAEnI/FG3cV52i9zI/s400/IMG01044-20100612-1453.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Cmmqd3jMRs8/TCTXslJy8jI/AAAAAAAAEnI/FG3cV52i9zI/s1600/IMG01044-20100612-1453.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Malcolm Simth on the crux of Blood Diamond (8c+), Anvil[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We have been developing a range of climbing specific articles based on personal coaching experience, client response and other sources since the formation of ReAch Climbing Coach since 2010 and are now offering a 6 month membership to ReAch Training & Research Online Documents for £25.00.
Some examples are:- Training Theory: Strength > Power
- Maximal Finger Strength Training
- Power Endurance (Anaerobic)
- Perdiodizing, Fatigue and Tapering
- Over Reaching Versus Over-Training
Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange access to our online training documents.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1H4fBJ5-Duw/TxsPWMJwSQI/AAAAAAAAPck/nwp8EBcFSQs/s400/409180_10150617414693203_786038202_11358090_405580188_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1H4fBJ5-Duw/TxsPWMJwSQI/AAAAAAAAPck/nwp8EBcFSQs/s1600/409180_10150617414693203_786038202_11358090_405580188_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Dr Bott... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/11/dr-bott.html)
2 November 2013, 5:52 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jz5YUotJsGI/UnU51E5W9BI/AAAAAAAAUVQ/h5SdZLDrHHQ/s400/72282_10151251484822685_196031592_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Jz5YUotJsGI/UnU51E5W9BI/AAAAAAAAUVQ/h5SdZLDrHHQ/s1600/72282_10151251484822685_196031592_n.jpg)
I've been lucky enough to be coaching and training with the Doc. I don't coach many people these days on a 1 to 1 but I have always made friends with those I do. The Doc is inspirational in her pursuit to get rock climbing fit for Mexico at end of the year. A Phd and all round cool dude and new friend, it has been great working with the Doc and a big thank you from me for helping me with my own research and Phd application. Fingers crossed Doc!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4U3ecvlOdkc/UnU5yfNY-6I/AAAAAAAAUU4/v9tjCv3k14c/s400/406517_10150537326102685_1641469577_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4U3ecvlOdkc/UnU5yfNY-6I/AAAAAAAAUU4/v9tjCv3k14c/s1600/406517_10150537326102685_1641469577_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SeiLLW5zx3k/UnU5yHOXtQI/AAAAAAAAUU0/EBnWtwUM0JQ/s400/522029_10151424068637685_1186247557_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SeiLLW5zx3k/UnU5yHOXtQI/AAAAAAAAUU0/EBnWtwUM0JQ/s1600/522029_10151424068637685_1186247557_n.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DBnhYUH51mg/UnU5zLO4dFI/AAAAAAAAUU8/AUb-v1tjpO4/s400/532114_10152734602635187_207299155_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DBnhYUH51mg/UnU5zLO4dFI/AAAAAAAAUU8/AUb-v1tjpO4/s1600/532114_10152734602635187_207299155_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Doc and the silver surfing landlady![/td][/tr]
[/table]
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BWmjWRvCByg/UnU50vDht-I/AAAAAAAAUVM/tUJFj7A2c_M/s320/558627_10150704723126087_1154847998_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BWmjWRvCByg/UnU50vDht-I/AAAAAAAAUVM/tUJFj7A2c_M/s1600/558627_10150704723126087_1154847998_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Llanberis Accommodation for Climbers, Surfers and other humans... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/11/llanberis-accommodation-for-climbers.html)
12 November 2013, 10:31 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXFI76Ao6cE/UoIBtePJYkI/AAAAAAAAUX0/PSc-0rIlMIk/s400/971669_10151632443348609_289039351_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rXFI76Ao6cE/UoIBtePJYkI/AAAAAAAAUX0/PSc-0rIlMIk/s1600/971669_10151632443348609_289039351_n.jpg)
If your down Llanberis way looking for a good B&B then go visit Nitas straight across from Pete's Eats. Click photo below for link to B&B... or HERE! (http://surfsister.co.uk/bandb.html)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FBXCdxWd2q4/UoIBuZY014I/AAAAAAAAUYE/OYX2Qs2938U/s320/bnbsign.jpg) (http://surfsister.co.uk/bandb.html)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recruiting for December Team for ReAch Dual Factor Online Program... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/11/recruiting-for-december-team-for-reach.html)
12 November 2013, 3:10 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YWkiPIkFfpM/UoFdYz-UTcI/AAAAAAAAUXU/83tko2j6n9c/s400/72101_10151550014738609_923476841_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YWkiPIkFfpM/UoFdYz-UTcI/AAAAAAAAUXU/83tko2j6n9c/s1600/72101_10151550014738609_923476841_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]'Chillin the fook out' or freezing!
The top pitch of Strand E2 5b, Gogarth.[/td][/tr]
[/table]If you are thinking about chilling out for Christmas then enjoy.
If your looking to get fit for a January rock trip or longer term plan for spring trad, then the beginning of December is sensible time to act by joining our December Team...
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wprfv6OC1vU/Tcvf7zGBDxI/AAAAAAAALd0/1a45zc2VU2M/s400/IMG01467-20110426-1613.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wprfv6OC1vU/Tcvf7zGBDxI/AAAAAAAALd0/1a45zc2VU2M/s1600/IMG01467-20110426-1613.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana, Espana[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8JI4umP1vpw/UoFdX3ngVtI/AAAAAAAAUXI/gwo9W0gAL3Y/s400/1012737_10151662162738609_497177937_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8JI4umP1vpw/UoFdX3ngVtI/AAAAAAAAUXI/gwo9W0gAL3Y/s1600/1012737_10151662162738609_497177937_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Right Wall, E5 6a, The Cromlech, North Wales UK[/td][/tr]
[/table]
We are offering a 6 week Online Dual Factor Program for £100 starting December or a 3 month Program starting January for a spring peak for £200. Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0r-bjxrTCk0/TLAjsTljWII/AAAAAAAAHIY/iGfu8TOzb7g/s320/%253D%253Futf-8%253FB%253FSU1HMDI3NTktMjAxMDEwMDgtMTQ0NC5qcGc%253D%253F%253D-788633) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0r-bjxrTCk0/TLAjsTljWII/AAAAAAAAHIY/iGfu8TOzb7g/s1600/%253D%253Futf-8%253FB%253FSU1HMDI3NTktMjAxMDEwMDgtMTQ0NC5qcGc%253D%253F%253D-788633)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Training Strategies at ReAch... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/11/training-strategies-at-reach.html)
15 November 2013, 3:04 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-44O_jX7jCuA/TojUAnki3FI/AAAAAAAAO7E/bbxXDGbYSVM/s400/IMG02638-20111002-1641.jpg)
The ReAch Dual Factor Training Programme works along the principle of developing your power first and the maintaining of it second. So instead of performing a high volume of training at a low intensity you perform a low volume of training at a high intensity.This means a much more productive return from your training because you can't perform high intensity exercise as often as low intensity exercise. This will free up valuable days of your week.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ny1cPfVtK2A/Tl_M-LP-zWI/AAAAAAAAOUg/oWXOWXJFs6w/s400/semana+cuatro+medio.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ny1cPfVtK2A/Tl_M-LP-zWI/AAAAAAAAOUg/oWXOWXJFs6w/s1600/semana+cuatro+medio.jpg)
Our innovative programme encourages you to cut out large volumes of aerobic training (except to upload towards a 'fatigue peak'). Instead you head straight into the high intensity endurance based workouts after maximal strength and power have been achieved. Its time efficient and mimics the energy requirements of our sport, allowing you to follow a more focused and rewarding programme
.Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (markmcgowan01@gmail.com)for your own online programme.
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Online Data Bank Update: High-intensity interval training (HIIT) (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/11/online-data-bank-update-high-intensity.html)
24 November 2013, 2:17 pm
Members Link:
High-intensity interval training (HIIT)
For 6 month membership for £25 contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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A campus strategy for power... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/12/a-campus-strategy-for-power.html)
10 December 2013, 7:55 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h9YxjC_sZgc/T5vHRtl1eMI/AAAAAAAATyc/a-FI4IPVm9U/s400/581210_10150788874513609_737988608_9501766_1909302860_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h9YxjC_sZgc/T5vHRtl1eMI/AAAAAAAATyc/a-FI4IPVm9U/s1600/581210_10150788874513609_737988608_9501766_1909302860_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Campus rungs[/td][/tr]
[/table]I have began again, campus board for power and blob campusing to improve grip strength. The blobs seem to increase contact finger strength from what I can feel... like power pinching I suppose.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vGetWy08buM/UqdwsnfcQGI/AAAAAAAAUh8/mYodaS543AM/s400/CampusBoardSmallChimapanzodrome.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vGetWy08buM/UqdwsnfcQGI/AAAAAAAAUh8/mYodaS543AM/s1600/CampusBoardSmallChimapanzodrome.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Blobs and rungs from Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table]None of this is worth a jot unless you go and do it, or get yourself conditioned to begin it. So It got me thinking that I should do a campus training strategy for those that have just looked but never dared!
I dare you!
contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com if you would like a programme...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RYdbllnRCBc/UqdxaFagihI/AAAAAAAAUiE/tmyONwsglGg/s400/IMG02309-20110730-1919.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RYdbllnRCBc/UqdxaFagihI/AAAAAAAAUiE/tmyONwsglGg/s1600/IMG02309-20110730-1919.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Detraining... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/12/detraining_20.html)
20 December 2013, 8:17 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HAdetaze1LY/UpknvfWNr2I/AAAAAAAAUdM/WAdCAaiwxS8/s400/421653_10150649913443609_29771653_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HAdetaze1LY/UpknvfWNr2I/AAAAAAAAUdM/WAdCAaiwxS8/s1600/421653_10150649913443609_29771653_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Detraining with mi amiga during elbow rehab in 2012 in Spain[/td][/tr]
[/table] It has been nice returning to the campus board after nearly a year off any intensive training since the Pyrenees and I was intrigued as to how long it would take to shift the sessions towards a level of intensity that felt close to previous levels. Completing campus session 4 already feels like it may only need a couple more sessions to get to last years level. It's weird how the body remembers, even after a longish break. The key now, is not to get too greedy on the board and mix it up with route climbing to allow enough recovery as the campus board is deep man! Profundo hombre!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vGetWy08buM/UqdwsnfcQGI/AAAAAAAAUiA/-GSzDXrOw-8/s400/CampusBoardSmallChimapanzodrome.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vGetWy08buM/UqdwsnfcQGI/AAAAAAAAUiA/-GSzDXrOw-8/s1600/CampusBoardSmallChimapanzodrome.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
[/table]Some interesting research below for those that have been on a break...
With complete cessation of exercise training, a significant reduction in V ?O2max and a decrease in plasma volume occur within 2 weeks; all prior functional gains are dissipated within 2 to 8 months, even if routine low- to moderate-intensity physical activity has taken the place of training (Shephard 1994).
Muscular strength and power are reduced at a much slower rate than V?O2max, particularly during the first few months after an athlete discontinues resistance training (Fleck and Kraemer 1987).
In fact, no decrement in either strength or power may occur for the first 4 to 6 weeks after training ends (Neufer et al.1987).
After 12 months, almost half of the strength gained might still be retained if the athlete remains moderately active (Wilmore and Costill 1994).
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Ben Moon's Evolution... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2013/12/ben-moons-evolution.html)
21 December 2013, 1:41 pm
(http://www.moonclimbing.com/media/wysiwyg/ben3.png)Ben Moon..."Those of you who follow my Twitter/Facebook feed might be wondering how the Evolution story ended. Unfortunately there was no happy ending but the story isn’t over yet and all being well, a new chapter will begin again in the spring.I’ve not climbed now for about 3 weeks but up until that point all my climbing days over the previous 6 weeks were spent on Evolution. That’s about 2 days a week with no training days in between. It’s amazing how quickly you can rack up the days when fully committed and Evolution in terms of days invested is now probably number 2 on my all time list behind a certain route at Kilnsey. Hopefully the outcome will be different this time around!After getting bogged down on Evolution’s second crux for several days but still doing big links I finally got the breakthrough I had hoped for and during 1 session red-pointed all the way through to the last move 3 times. Unfortunately the last hold was seeping and I got spat of while setting up for the last big move. Although frustrating I was really very happy because I was sure I could do the route, maybe even this autumn. Unfortunately, as is often the case in sport-climbing this wasn’t to be and 2 days later I popped my left knee on the crucial heel and toe lock on the lower crux. It made a sickening sound as the ligaments tore and my body suddenly felt very vulnerable. I knew immediately that was it for the year.It’s so strange being back into redpointing after so many years away. It’s so much more high pressure than bouldering, basically because you invest so much more time and energy, both mental and physical. I guess that’s why I gave it up in the first place. The flip side of this is that the rewards are huge if you do succeed. One of the most inspiring bits of news this year was Paul Reeves eventual success on Cry Freedom after many days effort over many years at the age of 51. When I bumped into him at Ravens Tor several months after his successful red-point and asked him how it felt to finally clip the belay he told me he was still basking in the glow of his success. That feeling is a big part of what’s driving me on.I know it’s not for everyone this single-minded focus but I do love to be working towards a goal in my life and I am sure Paul Reeve feels the same. Since getting back into sport climbing I have really enjoyed the mental and physical challenge of working and redpointing a hard route. It’s a rollercoaster of a ride but you’ve just got to roll with the punches, embrace the failures, hang in there and hopefully you will get the outcome you desire. I don’t say that flippantly because I know how hard it is to do that. Another major factor driving me on is my age and not knowing how many more years of pulling on small crimps my body can take. Hopefully many more but I am not taking anything for granted.I hope you all had a good 2013 and I wish you good health and happiness for 2014."- See more at: http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/evolution/#sthash.wemOysj3.QIyorlrl.dpuf
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recruiting for Feb Team for ReAch Dual Factor Online Programme.. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/01/recruiting-for-feb-team-for-reach-dual.html)
10 January 2014, 12:20 am
We are taking bookings for our Dual Factor Online Programme for February start. Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to join the Feb Team. It will involve a 6 week intense online training programme designed around your own goal. The cost is £100 (UK) or 100 euros. Available in English or Spanish.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QjArpzLY2WM/UC1DdPxwmtI/AAAAAAAAUe4/xiRCJ6yCDOA/s1600/DSC_0030.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QjArpzLY2WM/UC1DdPxwmtI/AAAAAAAAUe4/xiRCJ6yCDOA/s1600/DSC_0030.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td](Photo: Jon Stoelker)[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAATyc/wV3Jx7pVxfA/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i3NVpvorLT0/T3xLfApdvZI/AAAAAAAATyc/wV3Jx7pVxfA/s1600/390262_274685509245854_122550151126058_685690_1016297402_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/01/february-with-talk-from-top-female.html)
13 January 2014, 12:31 pm
The Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team's winter lecture series continues into February with a talk from top female climber Emma Twyford.
With an ascent of Rare Lichen E9 6c in summer 2013 and previous ascents including a redpoint of Predator F8b at Malham and a flash ascent of Statement of Youth F8a at Lower Pen Trwyn, Emma is one of the most accomplished female climbers currently operating in the UK.
Emma was born in Exeter in 1986, but grew up in the Lake District where she started climbing at a young age with her Dad. During the lecture, Emma will talk about her climbing through the years from growing up in the Lake District, competing in youth competitions, living in Sheffield and finally moving to North Wales where she currently resides.
Venue: Beacon Climbing Centre
Address: Cibyn Estate, Caernarfon, LL55 2BD
Date: Friday 28th January 2014
Time: 7:30pm (bar open all evening)
Tickets: £8 donation online (available shortly through the Llanberis Mountain Rescue Team website).
(or £10 suggested donation on the door - cash only) |
Beacon Climbing Centre (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beacon-Climbing-Centre/172817909410188)Cibyn Industrial Estate, LL55 2BD CaernarfonView map (http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&pc=FACEBK&mid=8100&rtp=adr.%257Epos.53.138692119879_-4.2528670482454_Beacon+Climbing+Centre_Cibyn+Industrial+Estate%252C+LL55+2BD+Caernarfon&cp=53.138692119879%257E-4.2528670482454&lvl=16&sty=r&rtop=0%257E0%257E0%257E&mode=D&FORM=FBKPL2&mkt=en-GB&h=qAQGu914L&s=1) · Get directions (http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http://bing.com/maps/default.aspx?v=2&pc=FACEBK&mid=8100&rtp=adr.%257Epos.53.138692119879_-4.2528670482454_Beacon+Climbing+Centre_Cibyn+Industrial+Estate%252C+LL55+2BD+Caernarfon&cp=53.138692119879%257E-4.2528670482454&lvl=16&sty=r&rtop=0%257E0%257E0%257E&mode=D&FORM=FBKPL1&mkt=en-GB&h=aAQFvEOVy&s=1)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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1 to 1 coaching at The Beacon Climbing Centre (North Wales, UK) (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/01/1-to-1-coaching-at-beacon-climbing.html)
20 January 2014, 5:39 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sQuYNlbKMdg/Ut1e4IeznAI/AAAAAAAAUnc/lVGomg_FGPA/s1600/406642_10150575060071719_1423798342_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sQuYNlbKMdg/Ut1e4IeznAI/AAAAAAAAUnc/lVGomg_FGPA/s1600/406642_10150575060071719_1423798342_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Coaching in Montserrat[/td][/tr]
[/table]Mark McGowan will be available for 1 to 1 coaching during February at The Beacon Climbing Centre.
The sessions will specialize in sport climbing techniques and for improving your red point between F6a to F7a and supporting strategies that facilitate an increase in performance. The sessions will last around 2 hours and cost £50 per session.
Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to book sessions for February.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSbNC1M_dQ/T4fWCYIDHNI/AAAAAAAAREk/D3_okmRXqZs/s1600/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSbNC1M_dQ/T4fWCYIDHNI/AAAAAAAAREk/D3_okmRXqZs/s1600/529795_10150743904718609_737988608_9387191_111755946_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Coaching in Siurana
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View Larger Map (https://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=embed&hl=en-GB&geocode=&q=Beacon+Climbing+Centre,+Caernarfon,+United+Kingdom&aq=0&oq=beacon+climbing&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=40.59616,86.572266&ie=UTF8&hq=Beacon+Climbing+Centre,&hnear=Caernarfon,+Gwynedd,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.140401,-4.249695&spn=0.962632,2.705383&t=m&z=9&iwloc=A&cid=6729296239399811296)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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1 to 1 Coaching Sessions at The Indy Climbing Wall (North Wales, UK) (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/01/1-to-1-coaching-sessions-at-indy.html)
25 January 2014, 10:25 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CNWnA62DUe4/UuQ1cjGBnaI/AAAAAAAAUog/isFhzMraOSE/s1600/998924_10201804126615043_1375393430_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CNWnA62DUe4/UuQ1cjGBnaI/AAAAAAAAUog/isFhzMraOSE/s1600/998924_10201804126615043_1375393430_n.jpg)
We are available for 1 to 1 training sessions to help lift your grade (working around the F7a to F8a grade range) using our training methods based around our online programme; Strength > Power> Power Endurance...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IU3HmBxhCOM/UuQ1JIICXtI/AAAAAAAAUoI/ZAVeLMDCvbA/s1600/1011873_10152173220428609_2075322503_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IU3HmBxhCOM/UuQ1JIICXtI/AAAAAAAAUoI/ZAVeLMDCvbA/s1600/1011873_10152173220428609_2075322503_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ew-2ve8epXM/UuQ1R1P9DCI/AAAAAAAAUoY/KM-gEqnOyfk/s1600/1016274_10152173220953609_1807786673_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ew-2ve8epXM/UuQ1R1P9DCI/AAAAAAAAUoY/KM-gEqnOyfk/s1600/1016274_10152173220953609_1807786673_n.jpg)
Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange sessions.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Znkek2Ymxsg/UuQ1K5cbTpI/AAAAAAAAUoQ/khdLsr_wdxc/s1600/lp.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Znkek2Ymxsg/UuQ1K5cbTpI/AAAAAAAAUoQ/khdLsr_wdxc/s1600/lp.jpg)
View Larger Map (https://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&cp=53.216700~-4.200000&lvl=10&dir=0&sty=r&rtp=adr.~pos.53.216700_-4.200000_Llanfairpwllgwyngyll___e_&mode=D&rtop=0~0~0~&form=LMLTEW)Driving Directions (https://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&cp=53.216700~-4.200000&lvl=10&dir=0&sty=r&rtp=adr.~pos.53.216700_-4.200000_Llanfairpwllgwyngyll___e_&mode=D&rtop=0~0~0~&form=LMLTEW&rtp=~pos.53.2167_-4.1999999999999975_Isle%20of%20Anglesey)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Over trained or under trained? (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/08/over-trained-or-under-trained.html)
29 January 2014, 5:03 pm
Dual Factory Theory (Overtraining) or Single Factor Theory (Supercompensation)...or Both for climbing?
My experience has been to use both when training for a specific medium term goal such as 6 to 8. The over training tactic was used in the early preparatory stages of my program aimed at endurance and developing the body, ready for more intense specifics where as the Single Factor theory was used for specific conditioning of strength & power by utilizing Supercompensation in recovery to maximise quality of absolute strength sessions:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_8xHVWbQgUFA/THhMaBs6gAI/AAAAAAAAGDU/aHy_2WbMm54/s200/exhausted.gif)
What most of us call overtraining is really over-reaching. For most of us, "over-reaching" is what we're really referring to when we say overtraining. Over-reaching-is pushing yourself into a mild state of fatigue with your training. Regression in performance sometimes does occur during an over-reaching period, yet performance rebounds back very quickly, usually above and beyond it's previous level, with a short period of rest or lowered volume (within days). It can be good or bad depending on how you use it.
Overtraining occurs when you chronically over-reach for months or years on end. This leads to performance regression that can take months to recover from. Most athletes don't ever reach a true overtrained state. Another important term is Under reaching.
Under-reaching occurs when you intentionally "take it easy". This is like taking your foot off the gas in your training intentionally. It also can be good or bad depending on how you do it.
It has been my experience that, the reason many people train hard and consistently and don't make the gains they feel they should, is because they spend too much time over-reaching and not enough time under-reaching. This doesn't apply unless you train both hard and consistent. Allot of people don't train hard or consistently and look to answers within the minutia of their or (more commonly) other's program's and they may simply find that a more consistent and focused approach to their own training would deliver far better gains.Over-reaching by design can be a very good thing.
Recovery and Supercompensation:
Recovery can be defined as - regaining what was lost - however, for the climber this is not enough as it returns us only to where we started. Adaptation can be defined as the process of long-term adjustment to a specific stimulus. This process of adaptation can include adjustment in a number of factors such as the climber's physiology, psychology and mechanics. These alterations can ultimately lead to improved performance - which is a more satisfying goal.
We train to get fitness and strength. We want to climb longer harder routes etc. In order to get fit we must stimulate some fatigue so that our body adapts. We must push ourselves beyond our limits some of the time - which is fatigue.
There must be an optimal blend of both fatiguing oneself or over reaching (in order to improve) and resting oneself or under reaching, so that you can see the gains from the over reaching you've done. Under reach too much and you won't get the results you want because you haven't forced your body to adapt; over reach too much and you won't get results because the body is knackered.We have to determine how to intelligently over reach at the beginning of a training cycle, under reach at the end of a cycle, in order to boost the overall results of each training cycle.
Dual factor theory:
The Dual factor theory represent the relationship between fatigue and fitness. One factor is fitness the other factor is fatigue.A stress adaptation model that bases a training plan around the long term relationships between stress and fatigue. When you train you accumulate both fatigue and fitness. However, what many may not realize is that the fatigue that accumulates over the course of a training cyle itself "masks" the fitness gains that you make. However it has been acknowledged, that fitness persists about 3 x longer then fatigue. This means that when all traces of fatigue are gone from a bout of exercise or a cycle of training, the fitness gained will persist for 3 x as long as the fatigue. That's why most people make gains when they take a few days off from time to time.
The Single factor theory:
Is the basic stress adaptation model that is more common, and the model used to explain high intensity training. With this theory you look at physical ability as one short term factor. You load, recover, load, recover - always recovering fully before loading again.
The problem with this approach is you are left with the problem of timing sessions to correspond to the supercompensation wave. Anything sooner or later will lead to a bad session. Another problem is there is only so much systemic stress that can be thrown on the body in one session. If you prolong the length of the stress (loading and fatigue) period by days or weeks, instead of a single workout, you increase the overall stress. Therefore, providing you do allow recovery to take place after prolonged loading, you increase the height of the supercompensation curve as well.
Recovery:
With Supercompensation, one workout represents a period of fatigue. But, in the Dual Factor Theory, up to 6 weeks would represent a period of fatigue. With Supercompensation, a day or two (up to a week) represents a period of rest. But in the Dual Factor Theory, up to four weeks may represent a period rest.
When setting up dual factor periodization for the climber, it is important to remember to plan for periods of fatigue and periods of rest. During the build up to a fatigue period (say, 3 weeks), you slowly build up fatigue, and never fully recover. Then you have a period of recovery (another 1-2 weeks) where you train with reduced frequency, volume, or intensity...
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/httpwwwjustgivingcommarkmcgowan01.html)
3 February 2014, 7:40 pm
http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing 8b for Autism & Dyspraxia http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01 (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/httpwwwjustgivingcommarkmcgowan01.html)
3 February 2014, 7:40 pm
http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01 |
| Working Metis (8b+) in Pyrenees 2012 (Photo: Alan James UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/)) |
http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Inspiration... A Coaching Journey with Jay 'stomping' Owen. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/inspiration-coaching-journey-with-jay.html)
19 February 2014, 9:53 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJKny3GfxDM/UwKJxteJPdI/AAAAAAAAUqY/oVWWFwnU7kY/s1600/Jay.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tJKny3GfxDM/UwKJxteJPdI/AAAAAAAAUqY/oVWWFwnU7kY/s1600/Jay.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Young Jay trying harder at his climbing and his life... Inspiring.[/td][/tr]
[/table] "Hi my name Jamie 24 years old who has dyspraxia aspergers d.a.m.p also in progress getting re diagnosed now as Adult since i understand more stuff now as Adult rather than when i was a child not understanding anything atall with reading before when i was Little couldnt read or understand books or didnt no how to socialize with peers but i have come along way through battleing its not been easy for me more case i cant write to save my life , am allways in strict routine with doing things and if am not doing them activites i have a Bad day and just shut everyone out like whole world but what has changed my life is Climbing with helping me with my coordination confidence working my brain more just everything .. anything to do with Extreme sports i love and outdoors same as Music Films.. found it very hard to fit in with others peers when i was Little went away at age 12 years old to boarding school witch times were hard, but changed my life from haveing the Help down there , since the teachers at mainstream school didnt no how to deal with me plus 1 to 1 help connects in more ways with the teacher they get to understand you more than a mainstream Teacher an my Achievements been able to play Ice Hockey Roller Hockey , tryed playing football but was all over the place couldnt get on with any my team mates cause they were just Judgemental peers .. always struggled with everything but now that i got older its better to talk about things rather than keep it all in express what you feel to others such as parents doctors about lows and your highs , still get good days bad days , but wont let it define me as person , so to all that are struggling with things you have Gift at the end of day try new things no matter what the outcome is , battle on through , Each goal you do is Achievement even if you dont see it at 1st , just wanted to share this with you all .. it might not make sense but i wrote it out in best possible way i could , to try explain my Story p.s Jamie"
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wlNheOMnSac/UwUeJhwpZBI/AAAAAAAAUq0/80Nz0ertA-s/s1600/1959969_213753545489231_1786558441_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wlNheOMnSac/UwUeJhwpZBI/AAAAAAAAUq0/80Nz0ertA-s/s1600/1959969_213753545489231_1786558441_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jay working his 6a project at Beacon[/td][/tr]
[/table]Coaching and climbing with Jay has possibly been the most inspiring climbing journey that I have been on for a while. Watching him face the difficulties of climbing combined with the other challenge that is in his life has been humbling.
In between, climbing sessions where he works hard at learning how to be calm clipping a quick draw on lead and not get frustrated, when he is learning not to think about the confusions of right and left and to try to slow everything down when everything is telling him to hurry, in between this we had a great chat about his life and mine.
To sit down and hear a young man with autism be open about the challenges it has caused him to just live and the methods he uses to manage the best life for himself and his awareness of his own bravery and that it has ultimately been about how he has chosen to face his autism and how the world looks at him as he looks back at it was amazing and has left me feeling pretty humbled about my own difficult childhood and challenges I faced.
He lead his strong ass up the steep wall of the Beacon today fighting every difficult clip with such determination and bravery when he had only just learned how to find a solution for managing the magnified frustration of clipping a rope through the quick draw whilst under the weird sensation of being on the lead was just inspiring for me. Well done Jay 'stomping' Owen!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fxtpt6iHeyQ/UwKJwHQ1gdI/AAAAAAAAUp0/p8lPl5dXHPQ/s1600/1619527_10152223883468609_1725060493_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fxtpt6iHeyQ/UwKJwHQ1gdI/AAAAAAAAUp0/p8lPl5dXHPQ/s1600/1619527_10152223883468609_1725060493_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jay: leading his first route on main steep wall at Beacon[/td][/tr]
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Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Recruiting for Online 6 Week Training Programme for March. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/recruiting-for-online-6-week-training.html)
21 February 2014, 10:11 pm
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O5zZ62_9V5k/UqdbFP5E9dI/AAAAAAAAUhs/VNDCmJgn6Ag/s1600/54658_10151229237993609_1637872705_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O5zZ62_9V5k/UqdbFP5E9dI/AAAAAAAAUhs/VNDCmJgn6Ag/s1600/54658_10151229237993609_1637872705_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]1000 pull ups in Auzat, Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
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We are not looking for a thousand people, just 6! We are not looking to do a 1000 pull ups, just 6 weeks of structured, well planned training around your goal. If you are interested in joining the March ReAch Training Programme then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (%20markmcgowan01@gmail.com) for more details.
The cost of our Dual Factor Programme is £100 or $ or Euro equivalent.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KM5WRT64hds/T06x0-7xD8I/AAAAAAAAQZo/8gsI0VXrjnc/s1600/395911_10150649900243609_737988608_9072978_1206305900_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KM5WRT64hds/T06x0-7xD8I/AAAAAAAAQZo/8gsI0VXrjnc/s1600/395911_10150649900243609_737988608_9072978_1206305900_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sonia on F7b in Spanish Pyrenees[/td][/tr]
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Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Estamos reclutando para los clientes a entrenar con nuestro Programa de Formación en línea de 6 semanas de marzo. (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/estamos-reclutando-para-los-clientes.html)
22 February 2014, 4:36 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3TZuklEV64/T06oNXhp_ZI/AAAAAAAAQWg/v-wq7cwi6oQ/s1600/430669_10150649941738609_737988608_9073120_1588604755_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3TZuklEV64/T06oNXhp_ZI/AAAAAAAAQWg/v-wq7cwi6oQ/s1600/430669_10150649941738609_737988608_9073120_1588604755_n.jpg)
Estamos reclutando para los clientes a entrenar con nuestro Programa de Formación en línea de 6 semanas de marzo.
El costo es de € 100 para un programa de 6 semanas con el apoyo de entrenamiento en línea.
Si desea que su propio programa de entrenamiento en línea, por favor póngase en contacto con markmcgowan01@gmail.com
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDWm1Lc3NIw/T06ox8y14wI/AAAAAAAAQXY/0Riloawwm0o/s1600/65558_10150649940403609_737988608_9073115_1661580047_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDWm1Lc3NIw/T06ox8y14wI/AAAAAAAAQXY/0Riloawwm0o/s1600/65558_10150649940403609_737988608_9073115_1661580047_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEFKwzjiYfk/T06n2GQyYuI/AAAAAAAAQVw/mdNIR5I-ZkM/s1600/422995_10150649972693609_737988608_9073250_1972647872_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEFKwzjiYfk/T06n2GQyYuI/AAAAAAAAQVw/mdNIR5I-ZkM/s1600/422995_10150649972693609_737988608_9073250_1972647872_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-STh5K0AJKmA/T06xs7smc3I/AAAAAAAAQZY/VidvmVk-kaQ/s1600/419802_10150649903203609_737988608_9072985_2030902501_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-STh5K0AJKmA/T06xs7smc3I/AAAAAAAAQZY/VidvmVk-kaQ/s1600/419802_10150649903203609_737988608_9072985_2030902501_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-umQmdOTHGqk/T1Hu3wMESdI/AAAAAAAAQaw/6Qu9LRUvmv4/s1600/tabla-de-entrenamiento-transgression-por-eva-lopez.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-umQmdOTHGqk/T1Hu3wMESdI/AAAAAAAAQaw/6Qu9LRUvmv4/s1600/tabla-de-entrenamiento-transgression-por-eva-lopez.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Coaching for the BMC PARA - CLIMBING SERIES 2014 with Gwyn... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/02/coaching-for-bmc-para-climbing-series.html)
24 February 2014, 9:02 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q_iB-UqNaCA/Uwum1fLtepI/AAAAAAAAUrg/wMkwFRnSPmI/s1600/ArticleImageHandler.jpg) (https://www.thebmc.co.uk/BMC-paraclimbing-series-2014)
I was lucky enough to be asked to coach Gwyn for his upcoming competition in London at BMC PARA CLIMBING SERIES at the Castle Climbing Centre.
We are into our third week now and have shifted both my understanding of Gwyn's blindness and his understanding of what is actually achievable by him with our joint agreement on an intense training and coaching plan that has seen us begin on 6b+ to watch him working two long 7a's today at the Beacon after a tough weeks campusing and working a higher level of power endurance on the wooden blobs of doom!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehR1kJBNhNw/UwuopmLtWQI/AAAAAAAAUrs/kaThw1qyjrQ/s1600/1779879_10152223882388609_184966015_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ehR1kJBNhNw/UwuopmLtWQI/AAAAAAAAUrs/kaThw1qyjrQ/s1600/1779879_10152223882388609_184966015_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Gwyn working the problems in our session preparing for London[/td][/tr]
[/table]Gwyn used to climb back in the 80's/90's until he lost full use of his sight with use of his peripheral vision only. But he decided to try again with climbing as he adapted to his new way of seeing. My challenge was trying to understand firstly, how it might feel to climb for Gwyn and secondly to find ways that would assist our plight of improving his climbing for the competition in London.
Training the body to improve is not too hard, just takes effort and time - training the mind to adjust to climbing at a higher standard is harder, but still not so hard - finding ways to understand what it really feels like with impaired sight was terrifying! I tried climbing a 6c with my eyes shut on lead and have never been so frightened going over a bulge above a bolt (and I have done some reasonably scary shit in my time).
Finding methods to tag holds as we climb through the blind spots has been working a little, but we have 3 weeks to go before Gwyn's first competition... Trying new ideas and training harder as the programme increases in intensity before the taper towards the Competition, towards London.
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Coaching with Jay : 5 weeks on... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/03/coaching-with-jay-5-weeks-on.html)
6 March 2014, 5:23 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XI_db9S6zrw/UwUeJ5yMayI/AAAAAAAAUrA/pHEAZtXY4VE/s1600/1798853_213753448822574_833702046_n.jpg)
Working with Jamie now for over 5 weeks and the journey has been amazing and very progressive (for both of us). His first attempt at leading a 4c was filled with frustration (his) and fear (mine) as I allowed him to begin lead climbing very early on (maybe our 2nd session I think?). The danger was that the combination of difficulty in clipping the the rope safely through the quickdraw and the sometimes overwhelming fear of being in a lead fall situation too early on could have been very regressive, but we took our chance. The quickdraws were clipped using both his hands while he bridged his feet in the corner! Some were clipped correctly and some were ‘back clipped’ but I made the decision to let him continue as we were going to have to take some risks in this journey, calculated but there none the less. If I had stopped him in that moment then he would not have succeeded a few sessions later on his first 6a lead up the main overhanging wall that demanded smooth clips with one hand whilst hanging on with the other in strenuous positions on the overhanging wall. From 6a we quickly moved onto a hard 6b project, which will take us longer but will act as a false barrier for harder routes I think, because it is not the grade that is the challenge but the style and sustained nature of the climb. When this one falls to Jay, then 6c will come quicker than this 6b. (I think!). Increasing Jay’s flexibility has been a focus and completely changing his climbing style so that we can slow everything down to a manageable climbing pace for him to cope with a higher level of difficulty (both physically and mentally). Jay's strength is not a problem at the moment but finding ways to positively change Jay’s climbing style has required much thought and experimentation. But the change has begun and he is moving differently now on the routes with a much more focused coordination and use of tactics that we have developed to wind our way round the standard challenges of lead climbing. It is hard to understand just how hard Jay will climb, and yet, if I allow us to set any specific long term goals, then I suspect I will let us down with that. So we must concentrate on only believing in the unbelievable and simply focus on a wider objective…
http://www.justgiving.com/MarkMcGowan01
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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BMC PARA Climb Competition... 1st Round (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/03/bmc-para-climb-competition-1st-round.html)
20 March 2014, 8:27 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MTHlbKTlFYo/UytFH1u39cI/AAAAAAAAUs8/RfFO_uU0KFA/s1600/ArticleImageHandler.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MTHlbKTlFYo/UytFH1u39cI/AAAAAAAAUs8/RfFO_uU0KFA/s1600/ArticleImageHandler.jpg)
Gwyn, myself and Gwyn's friends (Chris and Mike) took the trip from Llanberis to London to support Gwyn in his first PARA Climbing competition. Gwyn did all the organizing of what bus or tube we had to get and used his special app on his phone to guide us to where we needed to get. So our blind guide got us there where we joined the other competitors at The Castle Climbing Wall (cool bunch of people running the place) and got ourselves registered to compete then a coffee and some cake in the cafe.
The last time I had competed in London was around 1990 against the likes of Jerry Moffat and other climbers of the day. I came 5th then but today as a 'caller' to Gwyn we came 1st! Gwyn won his category for the Visual Impairment category and climbed amazingly well. I was more nervous in this role than competing directly back in the 90's!
Results (http://ukbouldering.com/board/file:/C%3A/Users/Mark/Downloads/Round%201%20results.pdf)[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zYKi_t1vVQw/Uys-hUZZtBI/AAAAAAAAUss/UvotWhsmLVM/s1600/970770_588509541240303_1746259448_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zYKi_t1vVQw/Uys-hUZZtBI/AAAAAAAAUss/UvotWhsmLVM/s1600/970770_588509541240303_1746259448_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Gwyn flashing final boulder problem[/td][/tr]
[/table]The competition was made up of a bouldering and top rope event with 3 routes in each. We were allowed 3 tries on each boulder problem and 1 go at the top rope routes using a standard competition points system.
As the place filled up with competitors the buzz began to fill the place like any other competition. But this comp felt very different to me. It seemed to hold more resonance in terms of what is was all about for the competitors and the supporters of the PARA climbers. Watching a person with one arm or one leg combining explosive campusing power with climbing techniques I could not have imagined in a million years blew my mind. I pride myself in being able to read routes well, but I was continuously perplexed by some of the sequences that were being unlocked by the climbers (especially the one armed climbers) on boulder problems up to V4!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5UUX-LOfll4/Uys-fl-gEwI/AAAAAAAAUsU/Y6LjMwd0qHw/s1600/1531675_588508354573755_124272104_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5UUX-LOfll4/Uys-fl-gEwI/AAAAAAAAUsU/Y6LjMwd0qHw/s1600/1531675_588508354573755_124272104_n.jpg)
I was so pleased for Gwyn and I's success but I am so excited about being involved in these amazingly inspiring events. Although I was there to coach Gwyn and be his sight caller, I couldn't help myself but get involved with the others as they psyched up, chalked up and took their turn in something that really mattered. Competition is something my climbing has been part of but this feels so much more real to me as a person. Coaching someone to this great event is a journey I hope continues further.
Coaching people is a very personal thing, it takes time for trust to build and when someone has restricted sight and is listening to your voice over the other noises in the building for instruction in a competitive environment is so frightening but also so rewarding when they climb well for themselves. Gwyn climbed exceptionally well and won. But it feels like this is just the beginning for me.
The route setting by Ian Dunn was great and I couldn't have bettered it. But, it got me thinking about maximizing each para climbers full potential in a climbing environment and I believe we have a great opportunity in setting routes that test these climbers in a way that not only creates an obvious challenge, but perhaps setting in a way that allows them to truly demonstrate their athleticism and technical capacity totally specific to them as PARA climbers. The routes were set as able bodied climbs and watching Phil with one leg campusing off a crimp you couldn't hang a snotter from really woke me up to what he and his competitors were truly capable of and it seems it is up to us to give them the routes that will blow them away and in turn blow away the spectators at how just amazing these dudes are... Dunno, maybe am wrong? But I know this, I want to coach more of these guys...
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VMBhrRfI0KQ/Uys-fWDihfI/AAAAAAAAUsQ/yUYHKa3iyRY/s1600/10013675_588139744610616_267472648_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VMBhrRfI0KQ/Uys-fWDihfI/AAAAAAAAUsQ/yUYHKa3iyRY/s1600/10013675_588139744610616_267472648_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The winners! [/td][/tr]
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Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Getting beyond the past... (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/03/getting-beyond-past.html)
31 March 2014, 8:36 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sv7OfSKulJU/UznOptDDaMI/AAAAAAAAUtQ/uNVOZzXkKII/s1600/970770_588509541240303_1746259448_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sv7OfSKulJU/UznOptDDaMI/AAAAAAAAUtQ/uNVOZzXkKII/s1600/970770_588509541240303_1746259448_n.jpg)
After a few weeks from Gwyn's competition success in London, he managed to achieve something quite special today at the Beacon back in North Wales. He managed to redpoint at a higher level as a VI (Visually impaired) Climber than he did as a fully sighted climber!
Gwyn came to me climbing 6b but with huge potential and appetite to improve his climbing - for himself, but this shift away from his previous bench marks as a sighted climber is important ground for us because now we say good buy to previous boundaries and are free to push into the 7's.
I am excited about the changes in climbing style and the strength gains Gwyn has made but now it's fingers, fingers FINGERS!!! TORA TORA TORA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lpyy0gkXYJ4/UznUYRUDl_I/AAAAAAAAUtg/3-1wZYtvs5M/s1600/1383120_588506967907227_443936993_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lpyy0gkXYJ4/UznUYRUDl_I/AAAAAAAAUtg/3-1wZYtvs5M/s1600/1383120_588506967907227_443936993_n.jpg)
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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Para Climbing Coaching at The Beacon Climbing Centre with Mark McGowan (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/04/para-climbing-coaching-at-beacon.html)
1 April 2014, 8:21 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jNWBYOWD-Dk/T3eofPFbWNI/AAAAAAAAQz4/0vgRDQHbKzE/s1600/spu+arete.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jNWBYOWD-Dk/T3eofPFbWNI/AAAAAAAAQz4/0vgRDQHbKzE/s1600/spu+arete.jpg)
Mark McGowan is currently looking to recruit new para climbing clients for coaching and training sessions based at the Beacon Climbing Centre in North Wales.
If you have a disability and enjoy rock climbing and would like to improve your sport climbing grade then please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to discuss a coaching plan and costs etc. The first session is free to allow for a mutual understanding of climbing goals, disability challenges and development of a workable coaching plan.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SPU-ccV3WDE/Tnkfn8-U3AI/AAAAAAAAOcw/KKEZqBfsZaM/s1600/209125_10150288443935760_749550759_9533379_2304520_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SPU-ccV3WDE/Tnkfn8-U3AI/AAAAAAAAOcw/KKEZqBfsZaM/s1600/209125_10150288443935760_749550759_9533379_2304520_o.jpg)
Accommodation can also be provided in Llanberis just 7 miles from the climbing wall.
Get in touch with Mark if you are looking for quality coaching specializing in Para Climbing and are looking to improve your climbing and training strategies...
Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)
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1 to 1 Outdoor Coaching in North Wales (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2014/04/1-to-1-outdoor-coaching-in-north-wales.html)
11 April 2014, 1:14 pm
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AWRpvHQRVlQ/U0foiNIlafI/AAAAAAAAUuI/9pkK6JS-XPk/s1600/970620_10151738003008609_759299311_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AWRpvHQRVlQ/U0foiNIlafI/AAAAAAAAUuI/9pkK6JS-XPk/s1600/970620_10151738003008609_759299311_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dream of White Horses, North Wales[/td][/tr]
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If you climb between VS and E2/3 and looking for some quality coaching time outside. Then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com to arrange a days climbing coaching in North Wales... Classics such as Cemetery Gates or Left Wall on the Cromlech or the magnificent Strand on Gogarth are part of our hit list.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY-hHYpkXGQ/T3oDf9Kw1MI/AAAAAAAAQ54/SJJKmGhr5h8/s1600/539679_10150702554718609_737988608_9241309_449349120_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WY-hHYpkXGQ/T3oDf9Kw1MI/AAAAAAAAQ54/SJJKmGhr5h8/s1600/539679_10150702554718609_737988608_9241309_449349120_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hanging around in Gozo.. Not Wales, but a bit Gogarth![/td][/tr]
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Source: Reach Climbing Coach (http://reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/)