UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Sean_J on May 21, 2011, 08:38:48 pm
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Can anybody help me out with a bit of beta? Not sure what I should be doing when passing the first expansion bolt (where it leaves Quiet Flight). I'm meant to be climbing on the left of the line of bolts, yes? At the minute i'm getting the tilted scoop for my left hand (used on quiet flight in RH by some people to get the three-finger pocket), going for a gaston on a square block with RH, then i'm stuck - it's powerful to hold the position and there's not a lot for my feet at all. Trying to get up to the sidepull with LH near to the second expansion bolt, it's not far away but it won't go with the lack of footholds. No problem at all past that one or two moves.
P.S. also pulled/cleaned a few loose bits off it on TR, nothing too big though, I don't think any of it was crucial...