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New Blog (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/new-blog.html)
10 September 2010, 6:53 pm
So yeah a new blog up people, keeping you up to date on all the latest goings off and info on whats been going down. This year has without a doubt been my best year climbing ever, which is partly down to the summer being prehaps the driest we've had in years, culminating in climbing shed loads in Chee Dale, taking advantage of the uber dry Cornice. Had some amazing sessions down here with a really good scene and crew and sent lots of really cool routes.
The Water-Cum-Jolly Cornice has also seen super dry conditions and over the last few weeks we've been working and sending routes here, to escape the Dale of Chee's crowds. Hoping to hit this place up again at the weekend.
Done a couple of comps this year also, one being CWIF at thee Works and the other an Open Youth event up at EICA Ratho in Edinburgh. Good times man
Also took a trip to Wales early on in the summer, doing some trad at Gogarth and in the Pass, along with a trip a couple weeks back to Yorkshire! We camped for a few nights and managed to get loads done at Gordale, Malham and Kilnsey. Really syked to get back up there sometime soon!
Sooo super briefly thats covered the adventures of the summer. Temps are starting to cool now meaning its getting to that time of year for some Tor action and then quite stoked to get some cool grit done this winter. Syked man!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4061849220715417184?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Mixed Bag (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/mixed-bag.html)
12 September 2010, 6:35 pm
Had a sesh at the WCJ cornice yesterday, but after having four days off! the longest time spent without actually climbing all summer, was feeling a bit rusty. Training on the board no way near makes up for getting out on the rock. Anyway once we'd got going it wasn't to shabby and after dodging the monsoon showers I got on the Yorkshire 8b. Had a few naff efforts, before getting some very good new beta off Caff, which makes the move soooo much easier man. So am syked for getting back on it next week!
And today ended up just being a few hours at the wall. Hoping to do some rebolting in the coming week down the Dale, so we iz well keen for that. I hear its pretty soggy down there at the moment :( bad times! Lets hope it dries out some....
Anyway heres a teaser for the forthcoming 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour, which looks totally incredible! Check it out!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Summer 2010! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/summer-2010.html)
14 September 2010, 3:41 pm
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Lime Crushage! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/lime-crushage.html)
18 September 2010, 7:54 pm
So unbelievably syked right now! Had a well dope session on the lime today, getting a couple of really cool ticks. First up was a trip down the WCJ Cornice and bagging 'Yorkshire 8b' F8a then we bombed it round to Tideswell Dale were I was able to get Ben Moons old scool route 'Culloden' F8a+ done! BOOOYAA!
Both routes are basically boulder problems but Culloden more so being just a couple of hard pulls on good but small holds. Around Font 7c ish. Really stoked about this one! Vengaa!
This last week has been pretty sweet as far as climbing goes really. Been back down the Chee Dale cornice yet again, continuing the siege like (Yes it is still dry comrades). Started work on 'Nemesis' Monday and was able to get the moves dialed super quick, and then Wednesday wasn't fair off getting the beast, so it could be game on next sesh. JC had a close one on Christians new 'Bricktop' F8b midweek and then sent yesterday. Props to you brother!
Back to college next week, bad times, but still gona have plenty of time to get some more proojects done. A Muerte!
Peace.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6567916114852772904?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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A la Project... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/09/la-project.html)
29 September 2010, 3:05 pm
Soooo not much to report really, we has been doing lots of training on some wood over the past week, and have had a few days at the Tor working on the Weedkiller/Chimes linkup, pretty close to this ol rig now and pumped to try get it done tomorrow. Hoping for some more cold temps. Yeahh!
Managed to do a bit of bouldering in between sessions on the linkup too, doing Weedkiller Footless and a few other things round the place. Also went down Rubicon last Sunday with hammered elbows but managed to get Zippy's little addition 'The Wimp'pretty quick.
Grim weather out there today so its been a couple hours on a le beastmaker and plenty of cruising round on thee web. And that iz about it all I reckons.
Peacee and lovee and things x
Have a gander at this...
POU ANAIAK - PANAROMA 8C (webclip) (http://vimeo.com/14008866) from Jordi Canyigueral (http://vimeo.com/user3155073) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1194748144853172876?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Patience (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/10/patience.html)
11 October 2010, 9:30 pm
Well the project still hasn't gone yet, been real close on the last few sessions, so close that it should have really been in the bag by now but I guess that's how it goes sometimes. Fell from the last hold a couple of times but still no cigar, thou I iz very keen to go back and send this week.... hopefully. Its definitely feeling like its game on for next time, but spose I said that last time....guess we wills see man. We just loves dis shizz.
Massive big up to JC for sending Mecca Extension today! Nice one dudee! Very inspiring and a hugee example that it'll all pay off in the end if you just stick with it!
Here is a picture from Robbie Shone of le man himself on the extension. Check some more of this guys work out here, its immense! http://www.shonephotography.com/
Share the love!
Adioss!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-3382117359946774257?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Success! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/10/success.html)
16 October 2010, 6:23 pm
Finally managed to get the Weedkiller/Chimes link done today! Booom! After quite a few sessions falling at the last hurdle its at last in the bag. Really good temps out today and we iz just very syked to have sent this thing and to have done my first 8b! Yeah man Alle Alle!
Its weird how things happen sometimes, you just gotta be prepared to keep with it and eventually it'll all come together. Its all part of 'le progression' in the end, and the never ending learning curve. Its important to not get depressed over routes, you have to know that you'll do it and believe that you can. Doing this along with determination and the ability to not give in will eventually pay off. It can be hard but what would be the point if it wasn't right?
Sooo after the success on the linkup I tied into Mecca for a gander, really good to be on another bit of rock ha! Could be up for putting some days into this before it gets to cold to be hanging on a rope, we will see what is happening mann. Keen for la grit though now for sure. So many old ghetto projects to get done and new routes to try. Venga man venga!
Outzzzz x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-2334118206718437928?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Grit, Lime, Grit, Lime (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/10/grit-lime-grit-lime.html)
28 October 2010, 7:39 pm
Tried to get out on some of that grit last weekend but didn't even make it out of the car up Stanage man, was just total grimness. Massive FAIL! Soooo we bailed to La Tor, tried to get some motivation ont bubble with the other faithful and minced about for a while before giving Mecca a blast after dobbin had finished.
Got some wicked beta off Ted for the groove and quickly linked the top section together, then lowered off and headed home eager for another session at some point. Not before however belaying Stone on the successful ascent of his project!!! Very honored, historically mannn! Well stoked for him, good work mate!
Monday we's actually got out on the grit! Had a real cool few hours soloing around on some classics up Stanage. Clear skies, and cold temps made it feel amazing and was really good to just do loads of routes and get the feel of it all again.
Going to try it again at the weekend, hopefully it'll be better weather than last this time but we'll just have to see how it holds out I guess, anyway plenty of time for all that shizz. Well up for Black Car Burning!!
Spent a day route setting at The Face on Tuesday and today we've been back down the Tor. Made loads of progress on Mecca doing all the moves quickly again and getting some big links done. Its all starting to feel like it may be possible now but will most probably run out of time this year as only got a few weeks left before it'll be to cold to be on a rope but maybe I'll get lucky..........
WE IZ VERY KEEN! JA JA
LETZ DO THIS
PEACENESS to ya'all(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-2614814398276231097?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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BOOOM! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/booom.html)
4 November 2010, 11:34 pm
Been doing loads of grit stuff over past week, had a trip up to Froggatt and did Hard Cheddar E5 6b among a few other good lil routes. Then headed up Black Rocks over weekend, ticking a couple of classics and then getting Doggers' Paradise done, a nice E4 6a, at the Alport Stone.
Really starting to get back into all this grit trad shizz now, and the syke is brewing again for the weekend!
Cheers to Dave Hughes for the photos, more of his work can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/80859278@N00/(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6329699533038908033?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Ropeeeeee (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/ropeeeeee.html)
5 November 2010, 12:46 pm
We are syked to be helping Crag X out with some rope testing. Over the next 6 months we'll be trying out the Tendon Smart and seeing how it holds out at the crag. BOOOYAA!
Cheers guys!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7043819368850038175?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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More of the good stuff (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/more-of-good-stuff.html)
14 November 2010, 8:54 pm
Loving the whole trad game at the moment, its just great to be out at loads of different crags doing lots of different routes, enjoying some really good conditions. Visited the Cowper Stone a week ago and did a few things before going on a sweet soloing mission at the popular end until it got dark.
Yesterday we went over to Higgar, always been keen for this place but never actually got round to going. Pretty windy times up there but after a quick warm up we did The Rasp. Such a great line with fantastic climbing man and was able to use some Cornice skills too! HA! After this I managed to do Bat Out of Hell E5 6a, which is another wicked line straight up the middle of the block, and diffinatly one of my favourite routes.
Then had a couple of tries on Block n Tackle, but couldn't quite work it out, we needz some beta! However we willz be back soon fo show!
Training this week and hoping to get out ont one or two of the days. Keen for some Curbar action next!
OUT(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6774614260412619497?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Boulder time! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/11/boulder-time.html)
30 November 2010, 8:23 pm
So had a few real good sessions over the last couple weeks or so, went up Burbage North with famous lime crusher Jon Clark, word up brother, last week were we both quickly dispatched The Terrace, Font 7C, a really funky little problem and deffinatly one of my new favourites.
Saturday we headed up to the plantation, with the aim of getting Brad Pit, F7C+. Came close to this classic a couple years back and after a warm up and a few tries I was able to get the beast! YEAH! Really stoked for sure, such a wicked boulder!
Hoping to get bouldering again this week, lots of snow this way at the moment so we wills see if we can take advantage of the conditions and crushhh!
Out
x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6434510504529967582?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Scary Times (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/12/scary-times.html)
13 December 2010, 9:08 pm
Been a bit to cold to tie into a rope these last couple of weeks with all this snow, but we've manage to have quite a few sweet bouldering sessions. Paid a visit to the impressive Ina's Rock last week, didn't manage to get anything done but was just cool to be out really. Keen to return for sure sometime, with MORE pads next time round!
Saturday we headed up to Froggatt for some more scary highballing, and was able to get two wicked good routes done. First up was the classic Oedipus Ring Your Mother, E4 6b a route I've always wanted to do and was super pleased to tick. And next I was able to bag The Mint 400, E6 6b an old Mr Fawcett line, just to the right. Not before taking a few jumps off from high up and a super scary moment right on the last move, with the ground looking miles below. Amazing line thou! Go do it people!
Thursday we are syked for going to try Renegade Master! Super stoked to pull on this thing man!
Peace out
Ciao
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Merry Christmas! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/12/merry-christmas.html)
24 December 2010, 9:06 pm
Big up to ya'll! Everyone have a dope ass Christmas and crush!
Peace n love!
x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1792051600570835383?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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New Year! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/01/new-year.html)
8 January 2011, 7:04 pm
New year and everything people! WORD! Very keen to climb as much as possible again this year and on with the progression! Got a few potential trips planned to Europe which we are syked for, and also looking forward to getting up Yorkshire some more.
We pottered about at a few different places over the Christmas period, in between all the random weather we got. Had a good bouldering sesh at Cratcliffe couple weeks back getting both the uber classics of T-Crack and Jerry's Traverse, which wa cool ya know.
Went out to Cratcliffe again on Thursday were I managed to get Genocide done, a cool E6 6c of Jerry's. Such a wicked route with the crux involving a huge span using two tiny, but positive crimps up to a really slopey break. Took a few lobs going for this before sticking the slopers and pushing on to the top.
Today was a fail! Ha! Gotta love the weather eh!
Happy New Year to ya'll! Hope its a good one for ya!
Out
Genocide
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Yeahhhh! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/01/blog-post.html)
17 January 2011, 6:58 pm
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Third time lucky (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/01/third-time-lucky.html)
22 January 2011, 7:53 pm
Another productive day on the grit. Tried Burbage N again and finally, after two visits, got some half decent conditions. Walked down to Knights Move and got up Arme Blanche, E5 6a, a very cool line. Then checked out Navana on the way back, propa funky boulder problem start, and will deffo go back for this one JA.
Lets hope for some more good weather tomorrow....
In bit geezzza(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5791030551280466996?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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(http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/01/jc-down-cornice.html)
27 January 2011, 5:35 pm
JC down the Cornice. INSANE AS!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Grit season continues (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/01/grit-season-continues.html)
31 January 2011, 8:29 pm
Really enjoying visiting a lot of new places and quiet little corners of the peak just lately. Over the weekend we went to Baslow to check out The Grand Potato and while there was no cigar in the end, it was really cool to just be out there in a wicked spot and with no crowds whatsoever, not to mention mint weather for once.
Will be back during the week to finish off this thing for sure. Video below of us blowing it on the last move and with the gear ripping! EPIC! Broke my frickin' ballnut mannnn!
Yesterday we decided on heading up to Moorside rocks for a walk around and again it was real cool to be some place totally different and apart of a very cool landscape.
After doing a few bits n bobs we had a wander into the woods at the end of Gardoms to try find Charlotte Rampling, a scary E6 that I'd spotted in the guide. Came very close to this, getting all the way to the sloper at the finish, before chickening out and facing up to the huge drop onto the pads below. Another line we are very keen to go back and finish off. Word to the guys there for the spot and couple of extra pads!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8454414151384621085?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Send Train (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/02/send-train.html)
5 February 2011, 6:17 pm
So what an utterly dire day its been today! Nearly 24 hours of constant rain meaning our plans to hit Gardoms were completely out the window, so headed to the wall for a beast of a sesh instead.
However had a really mint day out on Thursday back at Baslow, with a strong crew out including the Hamer boys and Steve Ramsden. Managed to bag The Grand Potato E6 6b, after sorting out the dubious gear and then watching Sam cruise on up the arete. A proper little gem of a route hidden away in the trees with fantastic moves in a great setting. We then all looked on as Steve stepped up for the solo! He crushed it second go after taking a huge huge jump from the very top, and almost missing the pads completely. A proper fine effort!
The Grand Potato
Sam and Ed then both did Poppers, the E5 up the middle of the wall to the right, topping out in the horrendous winds!
We all finished off with some cool bouldering with the wind becoming more and more gale force every minute, almost had to tie the pads down in the end!
Looking outside now and its STILL raining, and with them forecasting more of the stuff for tomorrow it is looking like a beastmaker day!
Next week the mighty Ben Humphris is coming to the Peaks so we are keen to get out and hopefully continue the gritstone tickage! Anddddd the new GriGri2 arrived this morning! YES BRO! Very hot bit of kit fo show!
Sam beasting those chicken heads on Poppers
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Gardoms Magic (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/02/gardoms-magic.html)
14 February 2011, 9:50 pm
Had a cool session up on Froggatt with Mr Humphris last Friday, and even though the signs looked ominous to begin with it turned out alright and I was able to get on Narcissus while Ben went for Oedipus. Didn't manage to get them done in the end but another route that can be added to the list of things to come back for.
Saturday we all headed to Gardoms in the hope that the classic Dawes E6, Charlotte Rampling would be in good nick along with a couple other things. Got up there and it was totally soaked but we were optimistic that it'd dry so went and did the amazing Suavito F7B+, a well nice bloc which has to be up there with one of my favourite problems for sure.
Once the sun hit the slab of Charlotte it was fine and was able to get it done! YES! Love those moments when you feel totally in there on a route, completely in that zone, focusing on the next move and getting to the top.
It was a case of back to the same old drizzle yesterday but hopefully it'll pick up some this week and we'll be able to get out. Short video below of some end of the day bouldering.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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More tickage (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/03/more-tickage.html)
1 March 2011, 9:33 pm
Its all been a bit hit and miss over the last month with the weather, lots of rain and grim times but at least there was some relief from the winter onslaught with a couple days of sunshine last week. Popped up to Curbar with some of the crew and quickly dispatched another Dawes scare-fest, Committed E6 6b. Even with the cunningly arranged pads it still managed to feel pretty airy up on the last moves.
Saturday wandered back to Curbar again but quickly bailed to escape the wind for some Gardoms bouldering and did the classic Marks Roof along with Neils Roof, F7C ish.
Slackers is next on the list and should get a chance to get on this thing over the coming week.
Training quite a bit at the moment for a comp in a couple of weeks time at Derby, which we are pretty syked for!
Out brethren.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1599172178556191155?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Black Car Burning and the happenings! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/03/black-car-burning-and-happenings.html)
14 March 2011, 9:41 pm
Saturday saw us on the way up to Apparent North at Stanage to give the E7 Black Car Burning a blast. I first tried this line a couple of years ago and its been a route I've been really keen to get done over the winter. Then last week the syke started brewing to go give it a proper go!
Once we'd sorted the gear out and got all the moves re-dialed I tied in and went for it and was super super stoked to top out! Managed to get it on camera as well, check out the video!
Had a short session up at Black Rocks the other day also and did the Evans classic King Edward, F7C ish. Which wa cool ya know! Short video I put together of this problem below too.
We've also been mixing it up at Rowtor last week, a place which always feels cool to be apart of, hidden away in the woods on a hill. Only did Yoghurt but well up for returning soon to get the new problem Pink Lady done! Funky stuff.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7735615184216382261?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Polar Bear Power! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/03/polar-bear-power.html)
21 March 2011, 9:15 pm
Another awesome day on the grit over weekend. Forecast looked sweet for Saturday and had more Curbar action in mind all week, with the E6 6b, Slackers being mainly on the cards. Got there early and after a quick warm-up walked down the crag and got the flash on this real stunner of a line! It climbs amazing with some funky moves on the lower arete, before launching on up the superb finish. Also did the easier start, Diet of Worms E4 6a, which is well dope too bruvs.
The day finished with some fantastic bouldering on Baslow and was very cool to tick the crag classic Flatworld at around 7B+/7C. We all then strolled over to The Eagle Stone, and rolled out a flash of both 'A Fist Full of Beagles" 7A+ and the wicked 'For a Few Beagles More' at 7B. Amazing end to the day and mega props again to Paul 'da beta machine'! Peace man!
Flatworld
Beagles anyone?
Was all about eatswood Rocks yesterday, another spot we hadn't checked out before, and was super impressed. Very mellow place in the woods, and came close to the tick of the crag, the traverse. Sweet collection of moves fo sure what with all the knee bar shenanigans! Will be back soon for this and a few of da others!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5022666077801304648?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Return of the Lime (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/04/return-of-lime.html)
3 April 2011, 9:42 pm
Yesterday saw us hit up the Tor for a first session of the year on the lime! Felt bit strange to be back at the place but was eager to get stuck into Pump up the Power, 8a+. Eventually lots of familiar faces started to appear and after getting the numbers dialed on PUTP, having a few burns and giving Stone a quick catch, I found myself clipping the belay! Super stoked to get this powerful thing in a session, and the syke is high now for more of the stuff. Revelations bekons...
Been back to eatswood a couple of times since the last post, bagging the traverse and a few of the other cool problems. The trad here looks awesome too so there is a plan to get involved with all that sometime.
Last weekend we had a trip up Yorkshire to sample for the first time, some of famous grit crags it has to offer. First stop was the amazing Caley and was cool to get on some of the highballs and have an explore around the place. Had a quick drive down the road to Ilkley as well, which was impressive to see and a place we'll be returning to soon without a doubt! Check the short video below for some of the stuff that went off.
So anyway the lime is back people and Mr Fry and The Humphris arrived back in town this week, so we will definitely be mixing it up with these guys very shortly!
Peacee ya'll(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-2771190110440700289?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Nuda's Tartan (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/04/nudas-tartan.html)
19 April 2011, 9:20 pm
Quick video of a wicked problem we did at the unsung Nuda's Tartan in Alport. Very funky 3D climbing, with toe and heel hooks, mono's and sharp pockets. All good fun!
Off camping for a few days tomorrow which we iz psyched for, will write some more when we get back. Outs.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The white stuff continues... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/04/white-stuff-continues.html)
25 April 2011, 9:44 pm
Had a sweet few days cruising round the peak with my good homie Ben Humphris last week. The weather has been pretty crazy, so it was a case of hitting the Tor during the morning, then escaping the heat and bailing down to the cool sanctuary of the dale. We both got a couple of good onsight/flashes under our belts of some cool routes both down there and at the steep, tucked outa the way venue, that is Beginners Wall.
Wednesday night saw us head back to Ben's place in Edale to quickly knock up a pretty hardcore board, see the fruits of our efforts below! Those guys will be pulling off every hold they touch after a few sessions on that beast!
By the time Saturday evening had come round it was evident that a rest day was desperately needed, after four days on in a row! So Sunday we did just that by having a wander down Dovedale with da bank holiday crowd init. Checked out Eye of the Tiger on the walk through, which looks absolutely incredible and we are really psyched now to go get it done!
Today we plodded off back down the dale again hoping that with yesterdays rest and rejuvenated skin we could hopefully get the 8a Entree sent. After a few attempts I was finally able to pull past the desperate boulder start and cruise on up the top wall to the chains! Super pleased with this, and while it felt pretty much straight forward in the end, that start is still pretty nails. Tough bugga fo show!
Theoria at The Nook is amazingly dry at the moment and had a quick pull on before walking out. Took the drill down to re-bolt this thing towards the end of last summer but the rain beat us to it, so now its back in shape we'll get it a new rig soon as possible.
And finally another quick video here of 'Paint it Black' 7C, in Blackwell Dale that we stopped off and bagged today too on the way home. A little bit of gold it is, with some noice moves.
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Theoria (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/theoria.html)
6 May 2011, 11:29 am
Met up with Mike last week at The Nook for a date with Theoria, a bouldery 8a+. In the last post I wrote that I'd had a quick burn on this short cellar-board route a few days before, given it a good brush up and sorted out all the moves. The start is ace, involving good pinches and a launch to a really positive crimper, from here a series of side-pulls and smaller crimps lead to a big throw to a huge jug. Above this a decaying lower-off awaits but not before a pretty sneaky last move to the finishing hold.
Anyway after a few tries I pulled through the lower crux, teetered my way across to the shagged lower-off, and it was in the bag. Really awesome micro route and I'm sure once we've rigged it up with fresh pins it'll see a lot more ascents, just as Lockless did last year. We have the bolts now, thanks to Kristian and now just waiting for the drill from the JC.
More news from the dale is that the Cornice is super dry, as I'm sure everyone is pretty much aware by now. Amazing what a week or so of hot weather and wind can do! We've also been ticking our way through the new routes over on Dogs-Dinner, which has been cool, and also got stuck back into R n P and Nemesis! Been good to see last years crew slowly starting to emerge down there, and I think everyone is syked by how early the place has dried out! Looking like another wicked summer is on the cards...
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And finally another quick video here of 'Paint it Black' 7C, in Blackwell Dale that we stopped off and bagged today too on the way home. A little bit of gold it is, with some noice moves.
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Hi Ethan. I've posted this on your blog as well, but Paint It Black doesn't finish where you drop off in the vid. It continues over the top overhang, via undercuts in the crack above where you finished, to jugs just beneath the grass.
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Ahhh yes I did realise this shortly after checking peak-bouldering. Will have to go back and get the full thing! Cheers mate.
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Malham Trip (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/malham-trip.html)
21 May 2011, 9:10 pm
Last week we headed to Malham for a couple days with Sam and Caff and had a pretty sweet time! We arrived Thursday dinner to be greeted by the screams of Ondra trying hard on Overshadow, not quite what we were expecting but it was totally awesome to watch the guy tearing the place up, warming up on 8a+'s before cruising up Overnight Sensation and launching into the desperate wall above. Inspiring stuff for sure! We were amazed to find out we'd even be camping right next to the beast!
Later we were joined by numerous other wads and it ended up being a really cool scene on the catwalk. Caff got stuck into Power Ranger and narrowly missed out on bagging it, but then sent Connect 5 and Sam managed to crush his way up Overnight! Respect brothers.
I came close an a couple things and we now have the Malham syke! Cannot wait to get back up there as soon as possible to get stuck in. Hoping for another trip over half term.
Thursday we decided on having a gander down Dovedale to give Eye of the Tiger a bash. Such an incredible piece of rock raising up over the dale. Had a brief go with Sam making super quick work of the thing, nailing it second go! So, very keen to go back to try it again and also to get Arch Enemies done, which is a stunning looking line! Contender for the best 7c+ in the Peak? Without a doubt.
Sam in cruise mode on Eye of the Tiger
Arch Enemies
Today it was back to the Cornice, and got Nemesis completely dialed, just ran out of skin in the end, next week we hopeful it might all come together. Sam came uber uber close to Four Doors, taking the huge and slightly painful whipper in the process. Should go down pretty easy next time I imagine.
Mawson getting stuck into Bricktop
And that is a rap, enjoy the pictures.
Out(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-3238996541615280018?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Nemesis (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/nemesis.html)
2 June 2011, 9:23 pm
Woke up Tuesday morning feeling propa syked about heading down the Cornice to try and finish off the 8a+ Nemesis and hoping that the rain from the previous day hadn't seeped through that much. Met up with JC in le Cromford, we drove on over and quickly made our way along the new approach. Gareth was also down for the day continuing his quest to tick Roof Warrior with some pizza from the night before aiding him in this mission!
After a brief warmup and a couple of redpoints I cranked my way onto the headwall, chilled out, took a breather and quickly found myself clipping the chains! Allez! Its a fantastic route, a true burly classic and stoked to get it done and continue on with the Cornice siege! Definitely up there as one of my favorite routes I've done for sure. Next on the list is the pumpy little number of R 'n' P. Came close on this last year so another route we are hoping to polish off. Keen to have a blast over the coming weekend, so we'll see how it goes.
Next week I will be joining the MockRock team in Leicester for some route setting on the brand new wall they have been building! So check back over the coming days to see how things go!
Peace out(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4396005004176523368?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Cornice shots (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/cornice-shots.html)
4 June 2011, 6:41 pm
A few pictures from the days adventures down int' dale.
Roy cranking out the crux of R 'n' P
32...
Punter!
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you mention drilling and re equipping in here a bit. You seen the access thread?
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Yeah, I've been keeping tabs on it all. Seems at the moment that re-equipping of routes is still acceptable down there. Lets hope it stays that way.
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Taking Shape (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/taking-shape.html)
8 June 2011, 9:32 pm
Mentioned in a previous post that the Mock Rock team have been busy in Leicester this last week building a brand new climbing wall for a school there. Anyway the structure is up and are now just waiting on some safety matting to arrive. Few shots of their progress so far below. Good work guys!
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Super Tuesday (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/super-tuesday.html)
10 June 2011, 5:05 pm
Having a really chilled out sesh today sat around at home so thought I'd write a short bit about the ventures of the last few days.
Its extremely motivating when you can see the progression on a route from one session to the next, and feel yourself getting stronger and more in tune with the climbing. You learn tricks to help you relax and re-gain that extra power you need to stick the next move. The end product of this is all super rewarding when it finally comes together. On Tuesday I was able to tick another Cornice test piece, R 'n' P (8a+). It was a bit of a fight towards the end but just about hung in there long enough on the headwall to power up to the finish. Another one in the bag!
After this we took advantage of Stones cleaning efforts and nabbed a quick ascent of the short bouldery 7c+ 'This is the Sea" and Jon cleaned and made short work of 'Dirty Old Man' another 7c+ to the right.
We've also had a few sessions down Dovedale just lately on the fantastic Reynards Arch. If people fancy a day climbing somewhere slightly different to the regular venues around and somewhere you can virtually guarantee won't be over run with climbers then go check this place out.
There is something for everyone here, from the recently retro-bolted 'The Lime Arch' (6b+) which takes in terrain that you wouldn't normally find on a grade at this level in the Peak, all the way to the steep 'Sworn Enemy' (8a) that JC put up last year. With a couple of low end 7's thrown into the mix as well! And of course the arch is home to the old 80's classic and what many people believe to be the best 7c+ in the Peak, Arch Enemies! I managed to crank my way up this yesterday and have to agree that its arguably one of the best routes of the grade I've done, and in a wicked setting. Have a video of this on its way so will post it up sometime when I get a chance.
In other news we are currently in the middle of organising a month long trip to Céüse in July with the Hamer boys! Super excited about this, should be an immense 4 weeks. Will be blogging about our adventures as we go along. So be sure to check out the site for updates!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8058264341195300187?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Becoming a Warrior (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/becoming-warrior.html)
17 June 2011, 2:34 pm
As we approached the Cornice yesterday we were greeted by a host of British climbing legends steadily warming up and pottering about, and later even more turned up, most notably grit master Dawes back for his second session of the week after we first bumped into him a few days before.After warming up ourselves we watched Zippy wander off into the wilderness in search of "dirt" while Kristian checked out his latest project and Mcclure made a swift ascent of the new line "Easy Rider".In the end it proved to be another successful few hours in the Dale of Chee as I was able to tick another ol rig I've always been keen for, that is the super fun line of The Roof Warrior (8a). It is a pretty funky route with burly moves through the wide roof up to a bomber knee bar rest! After trying to milk this for as long as my arms would take it was all about sticking the tricky move out left and staying relaxed on the finishing moves. Anyone who hasn't done this already I would definitely recommend them going to give it a barney.We finished the day off by treking up to the The Embankment and made a quick ascent of Sturgeon in the Cupboard (7c). Another one of those routes you've always been syked for at some point but never got round to getting on them. It made a change anyway to break out from the darkness that engulfs the Cornice and actually climb in sunlight!Four Doors beckons next along with what is supposedly one of the best 8b's in the Peak, Bricktop!Ceuse is looking more and more promising and if all goes to plan we'll be flying out on July 1st for a whole month at one of the most amazing crags in the world!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-2220265078324585774?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Bricktop Action (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/06/bricktop-action.html)
26 June 2011, 4:11 pm
Had a really good sesh on Bricktop the other day, and it certainly lived up to everything I've heard. It climbs incredibly well on perfectly formed holds and is a total power enduro fest! Unfortunately my attempts were slightly hindered by a couple of wet holds but as soon as they dry it could be game on... Word to JC for the wicked shots he got with his spanking new camera! Check them out!
Yesterday however was a pretty epic fail. Grim doesn't even come close to describing the weather in the peaks. Its never a good sign as you're walking towards the crag and you see guys with clip-sticks and glum faces walking away and back to the car park. Yesterday morning was one of those times and we were quickly told the Cornice was soaked! We decided to have a run down anyway and sure enough the place was gopping. Not a single route dry, so we decided on bailing to the Tor, collecting people to take with us on the walkout, who also had Cornice plans for the day.
While the Tor was drier the conditions were shocking and many people bailed and called it a day. I hear its still pretty soggy most places today but looks as if this heat is set to rollover into tomorrow, so we'll see what pans out. Not too worried though as this time next week we'll be sunning it up in the south of France with a strong crew and miles of world class rock! We fly out to Nice on Friday then onto the mecca that is Ceuse, for 4 weeks. Bring it on!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5861375985992274490?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Ceuse! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/07/ceuse.html)
4 July 2011, 8:39 am
So we are all having a much needed rest day today, everyone is sat chilling around their tents slowly waking up. We spent around 10 hours up at the crag yesterday getting pumped and burnt to a crisp so we are all going swimming today in some amazing Gorge!
Yesterday was also a pretty good sesh for the crew with both Ed and Luke flashing the famous 8a Carte Blanche! Props to you boys! Its taking me a while to adjust to the climbing here as the routes are sooooo chuffing long and pumpy but I'm told that within a week we'll be tuned into the style and ready to crush! There are some incredible lines here, virtually every one a classic, its a super inspiring place with lots of syked people around. We've met some pretty cool climbers already from all over including some Spanish, German, Italian, American and of course plenty of French dudes! The walk-in yesterday took just under an hour and is a bit of a trek but I'm sure by the end of the trip we'll have it dialed, it certainly will get you fit. The campsite is pretty nice place to hang out with plenty of table tennis going down and the occasional campus session on the 45 board in the barn!
Ed flashing the classic 'Carte Blanche'
Biographie worship!(http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif)
The journey over here from England went also went good with no major problems to report. We arrived in Nice Friday afternoon and was instantly greeted with heat that just pounded you in the face. After converging with some of the local crew we made our way to Hotel Pastoral, right in the centre of Nice and once checked in we bombed it down to the beach and took an amazing swim in the incredibly warm sea! I don't think the temperature dropped much below 28 degree for the rest of the night, which is amazing!
Anyway its time for a brew with the crew and sort out the plans for later. Only managed to sort through a few pictures so far but we'll get some more uploaded soon.
Peace out! Allez!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7540803791184180177?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Ceuse continued... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/07/ceuse-continued.html)
10 July 2011, 8:09 am
We've been in Ceuse for a week now, hanging with everyone ticking their way through some of the classics. Its taken a while to get adjusted to the style here and build up a decent amount of of fitness but its feeling like we might be getting somewhere.
A few big sends have gone down with Ed ticking the 8b Violent Illusion earlier in the week and bagging an onsight of Soeurs Froides (8a+). Yesterday he also sent Ami de Tout le Monde, second go, another classic 8b of the crag. Luke also sent it second go and the rest of us are keen to put some work in to get it done as well! Respect!
Friday we drove into Gap to pick up Kitty from the station who will be joining us for a couple of weeks and after we headed up to the crag for a quick evening hit where a few of the guys sent Bourinator.
Our last rest day saw us take a trip to the gorge to check out the amazing swimming that we had heard about. Its a super cool place to hang out and chill with plenty of jumps and deep pools! We'll certainly be spending a lot of time there over the coming weeks. Check out the pictures!
A lot more people seem to have arrived in the last few days and we have continued to meet plenty of cool climbers from all over the world.
Most of the camp seem to be on a rest day today so we might all head back to the gorge or take a trip into town, chill out and hope for a send fest tomorrow! Bring on the pump!
Outs! X
Sam sending The Bourinator in the evening light
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End of the road... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/07/end-of-road.html)
31 July 2011, 8:47 am
Our time in Ceuse is drawing to a close and it will soon be time to pack up and head back to the Peak. Many of our crew have already returned home or moved onto their next destination, but their are still a few of us keeping it real here. We are on our final rest day before two full days of climbing were we are all hoping to send our projects and finish on a high. It has been an amazing four weeks out here, climbing at one of the best crags in the world, hanging out and visiting lots cool places. I'll try to get a full end of trip post done sometime when I get back home.
The crew in Gap ready for the Tour de France
Everyone has continued to tick their way through the classic lines here with Ed getting a number of awesome onsights of some the cliffs hard lines! Good F youth! Along with this we have all also continued to meet lots of new people and plenty of strong WADS, the latest are a bunch of South Africans who have been keeping the camp alive with us! Many thanks to Dirk Smith for spending a good few hours dangling from a rope snapping pictures of us all. I'll be posting them up when they are all available. Below are a couple he took the other evening. In the mean time check out the guys website to see some more of his work. www.dirksmith.smugmug.com
Sam on the upper section of L'ami Caouette (8a)
Carte Blanche
Finally a big shout out to Caff for his recent ascent of The Big Bang! Mega respect bro!
That is all geeza's! Peace out and catch you when we all get back home!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7545518383276741455?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Ceuse photo dump (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/08/ceuse-photo-dump.html)
12 August 2011, 5:39 pm
Rather than write an epic on the Ceuse trip I thought I'd post up a big stash of photos along with some video and let them do all the talking instead. Peace out to all the amazing people we met out there, I'm sure we'll be back for more in the future! Check out the Hamer blog (http://hamerboys.blogspot.com/) for a run down on some of wicked lines those boys crushed and I believe Robbie will be writing up a big report for UKC sometime soon.
Once again a huge shout out to Dirk Smith for some of the pictures, cheers bro! www.dirksmith.smugmug.com
Word up to the lads in Austria and good luck to Ed and everyone competing in Imst over the coming days.
Sans peur et sanglier, 7c+
L'Arcadémicien, 8c
Andy Pedley pulling hard at Demi Lune
Sam high on the flash at Orpierre
Nice
Chilling with the crew on a wet day at Orpierre
Rest day
L'ami de tout le monde
One night in the woods...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8382424734321516496?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Waiting... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/08/waiting.html)
29 August 2011, 2:01 pm
Nothing major has gone down since the last post, just lots of waiting around for Bricktop to dry out. It finally dried enough to have a first redpoint a week or so back making good progress and feeling strong so we'll see what happens. In between we've been ticking our way through some of the hidden crags around the Peak. With the good old crag of Turkey Dip getting a bit of action. Last week we made quick ascents of the crags crack classic Step On It (7c+) and Jons offering, Unleashed (7c). Forgotten just how good this little venue is, wicked for a quick evening or afternoon hit.
Tomorrow we are heading up to Malham for a couple of days to meet up with Robbie and Nat, who have been crushing hard up there for the last few weeks. Props to those geeza's! There are a few things I'm syked to finish off and have a barney on and it'll be good to have a change of scene.
Some more photo's have come through from the Ceuse trip so check them out below.
And Last but not least a huge big up to Ed for his recent success at the youth worlds in Imst, amazing effort and super stoked for ya bro. Peace.
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The end is in sight (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/end-is-in-sight.html)
4 September 2011, 9:52 am
Yesterday I came super close to ticking Bricktop, falling from the last hard throw at the top twice. The holds that had been wet and causing the problems previously were the driest they had been in weeks, so it was game on and straight from the first go I managed a new highpoint, peeling off halfway up the head wall. In the end my skin gave in but I know I can do this thing now so I'm uber keen to get back down next week and finish it off. Fingers crossed it stays dry folks!
Another good scene at the Cornice yesterday with Dobbin powering his way up Roof Warrior and Dafydd getting Jug Jockey wrapped up quickly. Good skills youths!
Now we're into September its getting to that time of year again when grit season is just around the corner. We have so many things on the list to do this year and really hoping it will be a repeat of the wicked season of last. There are still a good couple months left, and if I can get this thing done then I would be syked to have a look at a few other lines before the lime craps out.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6695034339309937186?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
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Won the race! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/won-race.html)
5 September 2011, 9:26 pm
With the weather looking pretty grim for tomorrow I quickly acquired my Dads belaying services as he got in from work and we bombed it to Chee Dale in the hope my route Bricktop would still be dry. On the walk in we were told it was bomber which got us syked that I might be in with a chance. It was still super dry and after warming up I set off for a barney, feeling strong as ever and pulling past my high point from Saturday, only to fluff it on the last move and watch in dismay as my fingers uncurled from the holds and I went flying through the air. Really need to sort out the whole falling from the last move thing! Tom Randall... any ideas? After a good long rest I tied in again for a second go and managed to send the thing! It is a fantastic line so massive props to Kristian for rigging it up! And cheers to my Dad for coming out and giving us a catch.
Best 8b in the Peak?
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Big Roof (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/big-roof.html)
11 September 2011, 12:11 pm
Gran Techo is by far the biggest roof climb I've been on and another offering from new route master Kristian Clemnow. I tried the line for the first time on Thursday and as I approached the roof I was at first blown away by the steepness and intimidating nature routes like this can have. Luckily the first ascensionist was on hand close by, continuing his quest for new lines, and was able to shout up the 'improbable' beta that unlocks the Font 7C crux through the horizontal world. By the end of the session I had done all the moves and was syked to try it some more. I returned yesterday super eager and with my ever keen belayer to give it another blast and was able to go from the ground to the lip of the roof! From here a series of powerful pulls land you at some jugs and hopefully victory. Eventually the arms powered out, the skin started wearing thin and we bailed but stoked to see the progression. Fingers crossed yet again that it stays dry so I can try get it done. Really cool to see my good homie Ted yesterday too, eager to get back climbing after his long layoff since we returned from Ceuse. Keep it real man, get those fingers crushing again!
Oh yeah and check out the new ride! Stoked.
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Dovers and Nudders (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/09/dovers-and-nudders.html)
19 September 2011, 9:00 pm
I've spent the last couple of days hanging out with the hamer boys at their ghetto Over Haddon crib! Saturday we drove to Dovedale to try JC's new 8a 'Sworn Enemy' which covers some amazing terrain before finishing up the classic Arch Enemies. Ed and Sam both got the second go tick so big up to them, but massive props to Jon for putting up this thing. A true and wicked line. I'm hoping to go back over the next week to finish it off and complete my full crag tick! Venga!
Sunday I took the geezers to the little unknown venue of Nuda's Tartan! Ted came along for this one and within a couple hours we just about ticked the crag between us, with some strong flashes from Ed. Word to Ted for crushing hard so close to his comeback from injury.
We are going to try get back on Gran Techo this week as well so hoping that goes good. Got a load of snaps from't dale below so check them out init.
And cheers to Denise for all the food, brews, and a mattress!
Outz
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Approaching season yeah! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/10/approaching-season-yeah.html)
17 October 2011, 7:10 pm
Its been ages since the last post, however there hasn't been massive amounts of news to share, we have mostly been trying a couple of projects on and off, as the weather has been slightly unpredictable over the last few weeks. Had a trip up to Malham about a week ago with Zippy and crew and we are hoping to get up again sometime this week, if the snow holds off long enough...
We appear to have been suddenly hit by cold temps of late, so yesterday me and Sam hit up Froggatt for some first grit action of the season! We quested through the bracken searching for some of the blocs that lay off the beaten track, and it turned out to be dope conditions and a perfect grit evening!
Nudders has been getting some more action and recent ticks include 'Iron Flag' and 'Bobby Digital', really cool problems and its been good to see other people checking the place out just lately. I got pretty close on The Vulcan last time out, a frickin' tough eliminate that breaks out from the 7C Calorie Count, so we'll be back for that at some point.
Super syked for the grit, but I'm sure there is still a couple more weeks to squeeze in some more lime action, so hopefully we can get a few more ticks before getting stuck back into the other stuff!
Peace out ya'll
Chilling on the Catwalk, cheers Adam bru!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Return of the GRIT! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/10/return-of-grit.html)
25 October 2011, 10:42 am
Its that time of year again when the limestone starts to crap out, the temps begin to drop and the grit starts calling. I headed to the Cornice with Ted and Barrows at the weekend and things are difinitely dead down there, with most things soaked and looking pretty grim. We decided on bailing to Nuda's later in the afternoon where I cranked my way up 'The Vulcan" just an eliminate really but hard one at that! And Ted sent Enigma, as well as coming close on Stumped, a total 'out there' roof problem, I'm sure he'll crush it next visit. Cheers for the video homie! Follow the link to check it out. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150340588646604
Sunday it was all about the grit, we walked towards Froggatt, weighed down with pads and super syked for a change of scene. First up was the burly classic of Rambeu (7B) which was quickly dispatched before moving onto Teds main goal, Sole Power, a brilliant 7C highball arete originally E5 6c!
After getting some beta from Froggatt master Heason I was able to stick the crux and delicately move on up the arete and to the ledge! Wicked way to kick off the grit season and super stoked! Ted was next to send in the fading light and then Adam stepped up for another try and also dispatched. Awesome team send with a real good crowd, big up the guys who chucked their pads down with ours!
Just off to hit of Burbage South with the Hamers so in abit ya'll
Out x
Just had a few pictures sent me from Revelations early in the season, nice one Matt.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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This is how we do it! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/11/this-is-how-we-do-it.html)
3 November 2011, 12:57 pm
We've all been continuing the gritstone rampage in the last week, its been awesome to get back out to all these different crags and start getting involved again. Makes a change from the usual haunts of Chee Dale and The Tor!
Goliath was on the list of routes we were all syked to do, and after acquiring some badass cams it went down like a good un! Peace goes out to Tom Randall for this, cheers bro, that was for you.
Check the videos!
Venga
Sam gives us the lowdown on his rack!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1485877206092704671?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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And there was light! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/11/and-there-was-light.html)
18 November 2011, 5:35 pm
It was good to finally see some sunshine over the weekend, even if we did have a pretty gash sesh at out on the grit, the weather has been so grim over the last couple weeks it has been hard to get stuff done which has frustrated the camp hugely. Saturday me and Sam hit Curbar hoping the place wouldn't be to soggy, it wasn't brilliant but we came away with a couple of small ticks, and was just good to be out really and see some blue sky! We all ended up at Apparent North on Tuesday, getting spat off the groveling nightmere of Skinless Wonder, it didn't yield but Ed saved the day by edging his way up Stanage Without Oxygen and then we all bailed for a huge, if not quite deserved, carvery and ice cream!
Its my graduation tomorrow so will be giving the grit a miss, but fingers crossed the weather improves for the coming week. Here are a few pictures from our grit questing. Cheers
And good luck to Ed in his first senior world cup this weekend in Kranj! Kill it bro, peace.
Setting up for the most bull mantel ever
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Cracks, Comps, and Dogs (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/11/we-woke-up-saturday-morning-to-be.html)
28 November 2011, 1:35 pm
We woke up Saturday morning to be greeted once again with shoddy conditions but decided to defy the weather and head out anyway hoping to salvage something. We ended up at Cracliffe where me and Sam sent the Reticent Mass Murderer, E4/5 6b. Quite tricky for E4 but yeah another old school classic test piece done. Can't imagine this thing gets many ascents but its just cool to be ticking the routes again. Ted joined us later after his crush fest at Nuda's where he got the 2nd ascent of Marks 'Stumped' a crazy V10! Then went on a bit of a mini rampage at The Stride, throwing laps on Ben's Wall. Tres bon youth.
Mega respect goes to Ed for 2nd place in his last junior comp in Kranj over the weekend. That is how to go out in style. Good one geezer SHIKADING!
Over haddon local chilling on the podium
This week we are all thinking of heading up to Ilkley to try some different stuff, lets hope again for decent weather. We may also have a new crag buddy joining us out on the grit shortly, in the form of Jet the dog.
Finally check out the footage a friendly geezer captured of Ted on Stumped.
Cheers(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4954735663928189653?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Quick shoot in the woods (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/12/quick-shoot-in-woods.html)
7 December 2011, 2:29 pm
The new geezer
I'm sat looking at the mad weather unfold outside, what is going on right now with it all! Anyway thought I would upload a few pictures from a quick shoot we did at the weekend.
Even though the weather is hit and miss at the moment, its not quite as bad as it seems. I twisted my knee about a week ago, so the odd day chilling is giving it time to heal up. Hard to believe that this time last year we were all knee deep in snow!
We're all stoked for The Works party this Friday! And hopefully we might manage to get out a bit the following day... Anyway check out the pics, and would just like to mention and give a big shout out to our Cassie who came first in her local bouldering comp! Nice one you crusher! cheers x
Just to finish, spent a couple days at the Haddon crib last week, couple of videos of our hardcore training sessions, and some post send thoughts from Sam after he boshed out Master of Reality at Hen Cloud.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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London Trip (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/12/london-trip.html)
19 December 2011, 12:51 pm
Last Thursday we headed down to London with the Hamers for a quick hit of shopping and a few days break from the Peak. Still not having much luck with the weather so we're all training quite a lot and trying to stay as syked as possible!
We had planned on hitting the Alps for some skiing and snowboarding for New Year but that has been scrapped and now a trip to Turkey could be on the cards at the start of January, which would be incredible as none of us have ever been before and the place just looks sick! Plus the crag is uber close to the campsite so no long treks like France back in the summer! Next year looks like being a pretty big year for traveling for us all as Spain is a definite for Easter, then maybe France again, along with a potential trip to the USA! Have to see how the funds work out though first, but it'll be so good to visit all these places and take full advantage of the endless amount of free time we all have at the minute!
Check out the pictures and stuff from London and stay keen people! x
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Happy New Year! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/01/happy-new-year.html)
2 January 2012, 8:56 pm
Christmas has been and gone along with the New year celebrations and many of us are hoping that the start of 2012 the UK will finally be able to string together a few days of good weather! We kicked off the year today up at Baslow where I was able to pull my way up the E5 6c, Poppers! A very cool, short line with a dyno start followed by crimpy chicken heads, and a final sketch over the top with the wind blowing a gale!
A short while before Christmas me and Sam had a trip to eatswood and both sent Jon Fullwoods line Beyond the Forbidden Forest, E5 6b. Such a good crag this place and being only 15minutes from my house its ideal for a quick hit. Syked to check out more of the route here at some point.
Keeping it G at The Works party! Cheers Tom!
I spent much of the 'holidays' at the Hamer household with plenty of training going down in the garage of beasts along with a couple of pretty decent days out. Last week we all headed out with our good homie and up and coming photographer, Adam Bailes! He got some sick shots and footage so massive thanks go out to the geezer, peace bro. Anyway check it all out below, and you can find more of Adams work on his website: www.adambailes.co.uk
Peace out and hope everyone has a year full of crushing and psyche!
Birthday lad!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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J'adore l'escalade (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/01/jadore-lescalade.html)
13 January 2012, 6:47 pm
Here is a quick video from Adam Bailes of us boshing out Mossatrocity at Grindleford last weekend. I do freaking love this problem and this compression style climbing! Nice one Bailes!
Also, I came across this sick video yesterday that has some pretty mental footage, nothing climbing related but check it out anyway.
More Surfing Videos (http://video.mpora.com/surfing/)
Peace ya'll, have a good weekend!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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This is what it's all about... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/01/this-is-what-its-all-about.html)
16 January 2012, 8:21 pm
The cold, crisp conditions finally arrived at the weekend with Saturday ranking as probably one of the most memorable days on the grit ever. I was super syked to get involved and meet up with some crew from London along with beta master Ted at Stanage and hopefully take advantage of the perfect temps. First up was Stanage Without Oxygen, E5 6c which went down within half an hour and a route I was very stoked to top out on! Shortly after Ted joined us and we ventured off to the classic 7C, Brass Monkeys. I came close on the flash and dispatched it 3rd go, another wicked line ticked and in the bag!
Brass Monkeys
We decided to take a walk over to Big Air E6 6b, with the hope of giving it a blast if we could get syked for the leap of faith across the gully. After a couple of test jumps Ted showed the way and went for it, cranking his way to the top with a round of applause! I then found the psyche, dug deep and soon found myself topping out as well. Always wanted to do this old test piece and we even had the privilege of seeing Will make the the FA of the direct start! Big waddage for that man!
Going for it on Big Air! Cheers to Stu for this shot.
Further sends from the day included a flash of the 7A+ Help the Young, a team send of Captain Hook 7B, followed by Glass Hour and Help the Aged.
Ted boshing out Born Slappy
So in the end a truly sick day out with a really good crowd. Definitely have huge motivation for more! Big up goes out to my Dad for his belaying and to Ted for all his knowledge.
Finally would just like to send best wishes to a girl from the London party that fell and had to be air lifted out. Peace out and crank through it! X(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5319930792471834897?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Sending fest (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/01/sending-fest.html)
30 January 2012, 12:13 pm
Even though the weather still hasn't been too great we've still been getting out a lot just lately and managing to get stuff done. We took a trip to the Churnet last week with the Hamers and alongside getting pretty soaked we got a fair few classic things ticked. Sends included: Simple Simon 7B, Sam Sam Tan 7B+, Wrights Traverse 7B, High Speed Imp Act 7A, Martins Mono 7A, Fifty Pence Problem 7B, and a few other things.
Anyway I thought rather than write much more I would just post up a load of video that we've taken from the last week, so have a gander ya'll.
Seems like the UK is set to get pretty cold in the coming days, lets see what happens... Out
Sam enjoying the rain
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Keeping it real (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/02/keeping-it-rea.html)
13 February 2012, 5:50 pm
The cold weather and snowy conditions we'd all been wishing for all winter finally arrived but unfortunately didn't bring quite as many amazing days as hoped for! Nevertheless we've still all been getting out and digging deep! It can be hard to maintain motivation sometimes when every visit to try a route turns out to be dog weather, but you just have to learn to get on with it and be super patient because eventually it'll all come good. I've been getting stuck into the bouldering the last week or so and had a really good weekend sending some stuff on the lime! Most of the grit was pretty much out on Saturday so me and Ted ended up retreating to the grotty local toilet of Toms Cave to check out a few things. After warming up and a good brew I was able to get the fairly new problem of Hannibal (V9) done before heading for cake, tea and rugby with the Hamers. Sunday Ed joined us for a sesh at Stoney, a place I've not climbed at in years, and it turned out to be a brilliant call with most things bone! We must have ticked close to 30 odd problems between the three of us, mostly down to Teds excellent knowledge, nice one homie! Few 'highlights' included Power Allowance, Swing Thing, White Ladder and a total of four V10's for Ed! Good un youth.
Anyway check out some video from the weekend and the pics from Tom and Pete's birthday bash at Millstone, no idea how those guys found the psyche to tie on and get up that thing in those conditions, but waddage to them both for the effort!
Some blonde chic going for it on Masters
Banana man
Ted the Hannibal
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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River of Life (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/02/river-of-life.html)
27 February 2012, 11:24 am
Ed, Bailes and myself headed to try this problem the other week so here are a few shots that my sister LYDIA took of us getting involved. Cheers youth.
This last week we've had our good friend Gasper Pintar staying with us from Slovenia, its been awesome to see our true homie again and show him around the Peak. I'll get onto writing something about what we've been up to shortly.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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True Slovenia (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/02/true-slovenia.html)
28 February 2012, 9:13 pm
So as I mentioned briefly in the previous post our super strong Slovenian friend, Gasper, spent the last week kicking it in the Peak with us geezers and learning what British climbing is all about, along with what us lot have to deal with on a daily basis.
Bearing in mind this guy climbed 8c when he was 15 we were all syked to see how he would get on! For his first ever 'trad' route he boshed out the highball E6/7 Thumbelina at Ina's Rock in the Churnet! Check out the pics, and I will upload some video when I get around to it.
It was an awesome day out with a big crew, and huge crush fest with us all sending this scary classic. Cornelius was up next just to the left, Dave led the way and soon found himself through the high crux and topping out. We'll be back to finish this off soon, that bloc is high!
Being mainly a sport climber, Pinti was especially excited about checking out the Tor, however we arrived and the place was soaked, but he was happy to have seen all the famous lines and to experience his first taste of fish and chips after!
We then took him out for a crash course in proper trad climbing on the grit. The guy turned out to be a natural and you would have hardly guessed he'd never placed a cam or nut in his life! Respect bro. See you again soon, hopefully for some hardcore euro style training in Slovenia! Peace(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-869288271291658293?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Livin it large on the blocs! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/livin-it-large-on-blocs.html)
8 March 2012, 7:59 pm
I've been carrying on the bouldering front just lately, mainly because its quick and easy to bail if the weather craps out. Had an awesome session last weekend with Ted again, this time at Burbage South where I came super close to flashing Zorev, 7C only to fall slapping for the top. Managed to get it second go and my brother was standing by with the camera, so check the video below. We then carried on to tick Trellis, Electrical Storm, Attitude Inspector, and Iain's Roof. A pretty good day doing some classics in the sunshine!
I also did the cool bloc of Tetris a few weeks ago now, another one of the essential peak 7C's and something good to take from an otherwise wet day up at the Roaches!
Earlier today I headed to the Tor with Ed and met up with Dave and Zippy for a first sesh of the year at the place. I was pretty psyched to go on Ben's Roof, having never really put any proper time into it before, and Ed was interested in giving Keen Roof a blast with Mason.
After a good warm up and some banter I ticked Ben's, and Keen Roof wasn't far off getting an ascent from Edwardo, but something that will have to wait for another day. Very pleased to get this famous essential tick and feel the benefits of the training.
This weekend its all about the CWIF, and we are all looking forward to watching the finals on Sunday, along with a free burger... and hopefully getting out on the Saturday for some routes! There are going to be some big Wads in Sheffield and it'll be a cool few days hanging out with the crew, with lots of rock climbing!
Oh and I finally managed to upload the video of Gasper doing Thumbelina, take a look at the lad crushing.
Out(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4892373740370009998?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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CWIF and more grit (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/cwif-and-more-grit.html)
15 March 2012, 9:28 pm
Last weekend was a big few days in Sheffield with the arrival of a bunch of strong climbers for the CWIF. I met up with Ted for another hit of the grit bouldering on Saturday morning, and the geezer yanked his way up Zorev. I know he was very keen to get this done so good effort mate! We then moved onto Burbage North to escape the hurricane like winds that were battering the quarries and us! Here we did the classic highball 'Sphinx' 7A+ or E5 6c in the olden days, before walking over to tick 'Zaff Skoczylas' 7C and then a good flash of 'Boyager' 7B. If you haven't done this its definitely worth seeking out as its a real gem of a boulder.
Warming down in the evening light
We woke up Sunday to more amazing weather, but it was all about heading down to The Works for the semi finals and to give some support to our friends competing. It was an awesome atmosphere with a huge crowd and some dam strong guys and gals all fighting it out for a spot in the final on some pretty nails looking blocs.
After stuffing our faces with burgers and scones it was finals time. It was very cool to watch those guys all battling super hard and big congrats to Dave and Shauna who totally crushed and for once it wasn't those French on top of the podium, or in this case, spacehoppers!
Ed pulling hard in Semi's
Adam Bailes Photography
It provided a good rest day for those of us not competing so the following day we all once again hit Burbage, in perfect conditions. I was pretty stoked to top out on The Knock E4/5 5c after warming up, a route I've always wanted to do and with the weather, it meant you could just enjoy the whole thing so much more! We ventured down the crag a bit more after this and 'The Alliance' got flashed before a few more things got sent by the rest of the team, including 'The Rib' and 'Desparate'.
It was really starting to warm up as we walked back for the main event of the day, the E6 6b Nosferatu! The arete was in full sun and we pondered for a good while at the bottom before Ted decided to just go for it. A recce or two later he was at the last move, stretching to the huge bucket of a hold that awaits those successful and it was in the bag!
By this time the temps had cooled loads and everything seemed just right for giving it a go, I tied in, set off and quickly found myself at the break clipping the gear and setting up for the launch to the jug! I pulled over and stood on top in brilliant late afternoon sunshine and pretty syked on the flash, but mainly just to climb a really sick line and another route that's been on the list for a while. Should have a load of pictures from Bailes coming through sometime so I'll post them up when I get hold of them, but cheers to Kitty for most of these!
In the mean time, for those of you not familiar with the route, check out the video below of Katy climbing it a few years ago.
We finished the long weekend with the best carvery in the world and all you can eat ice cream! Nice one youths, and massive cheers to Denise for putting up with us all again!!
The Sheep!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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All aboard the wagon (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/all-aboard-wagon.html)
20 March 2012, 5:11 pm
I am full on loving the trad at the minute along with the lighter evenings. Its been really good to finally get some more consistent and settled weather were you can actually go out, get stuff done without worrying about freezing fingers and how long you've got until it starts raining! Burbage South has continued to get a lot of attention, with another hit over the weekend with my revived trad homie Ted! I don't know exactly why I'm so syked for this place just now. Maybe because I have never really done much in the way of routes there before, and there are just so many classic lines to get done.
Offspring has always been something that inspired me, as the whole block is just so impressive and sits proudly on the hillside like the frickin Titanic! Anyway we both got up this and it has quickly become a firm favorite! We also popped down the crag a few yards and did another class E5, Pebble Mill. There is still so much to do in this area and we're hoping we can tick a few more things off before the it gets too much warmer. Cheers to Lydia again for most of the pictures.
Oh and it's looking like we'll be taking a trip to the Frankenjura towards the end of April! I cannot wait to get out there and get stuck into all the short, bouldery routes the place has to offer, and to see our good friend Tanja who we'll hopefully be chilling with for a couple weeks.
Out
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Turning up the heat up! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/turning-heat-up.html)
27 March 2012, 7:05 pm
Since doing Offspring the other week I was really keen to try Masters of the Universe, E7 6b which is the stunning, hanging arete of the Cioch block. So last week I headed back to the place with bold grit man, Nathan Lee, who was equally syked to give it a go. We went through the moves and got set up for giving it a burn. This is another route were you have to abseil in to start climbing after tying off the ab rope at the bottom to back up the rather rusty looking old bolts! I managed to get the flash in the end, after a brief, spooky moment half way up the arete, with a large beckoning fall looming below! We got some footage of Nathans ascent so have a look. It might be soft for E7 and probably more like E6 but who cares, its another sick route and one that should get more attention! You can also get a good view below of Tom and Ed finishing up this route after doing the traverse on Silent Scream.
Big up to Ed as well for his ascent of the 8B, Keen Roof, a few days ago. Word up home boy!
We seem to have been suddenly hit by an intense heat wave since the start of the weekend but we still kept up the grit trad mission on Saturday and boshed out Poached Salmon, E5 6b at Bamford. Pretty tough in the heat but steady as she goes youth.
Today though we decided it was time for some more lime action, so we checked out Squirrel Buttress just up the river from the Tor! Ed and myself both managed the 7C here, Candy Kaned before blasting over to Crag X and doing another 7C Moffatrocity. Then it was time for a feet up sesh in Bakewell with bread n cheese, chillin with the old people! Got a quick video if anyone is keen for some beta on Candy.
Off up Scotland tomorrow for a couple days, building a climbing wall at a school in Edinburgh. Will let ya'll know how that goes. Going for some chocolate digestives now, peace.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1831951497397669564?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Team Mammut (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/team-mammut.html)
30 March 2012, 2:18 pm
Very pleased to announce that I have officially joined the Mammut team. Super syked to work with these guys and to start promoting the brand in the UK! Would like to say a big thank you to everyone at Mammut UK for their support!
You can read more about the rest of the team here on UKC: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=4538 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=4538)
Hope everyone has a good weekend, with maybe slightly cooler temps! Peace.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1558600700265595207?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Lime is back with a bang! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/lime-is-back-with-bang.html)
3 April 2012, 7:23 pm
We hit the Tor up at the weekend, along with just about every one else as the place was crowded out, but it was good to catch up with a few people and get stuck into some more boulder action.
After watching Simon blast his way up the Weedkiller/Chimes link I managed to get Tumbleweed done. Whether this is still 8A I don't really know, but just really stoked to see the progression!
We all decided to then escape the crowds and had a cool few hours at Gardoms, doing a bunch of classic blocs, before another sick carvery with the crew.
Hannah getting a good SPOT on Marks!
I've been meaning to check out Anston for a good while now so yesterday me and Ed drove on over and ended up having a rad session in the woods. This place is soooo good and with it only being 20 minutes from my house I'll be spending a lot of time there this summer for sure. Highlights were us both sending the amazing roof problem, Soul Crusher 7C+ as well as the 8A sit start from the back! Other sends of day included Bullit 7C, The Pheonix 7C, The Vision 7C, Black Crow 7C+ and a send of the super popular 8A, Dark Art and Quarantine, 8A by Edwardo!
We both made pretty good progress on the 8A+ Vanilla Sky as well so we're super keen to get back and try it some more.
Anyway we've got loads more video footage from the last week so take a look. Cheers to Nathan for the one just below!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Chillin int woods (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/chillin-int-woods.html)
10 April 2012, 7:22 pm
This last week has been pretty intense with quite a few trainings sessions on the plastic and then some more trips to the uber popular Anston. I am definitely in need of a rest day and have some time to just chill out and take it easy. Hoping all this bouldering we've been doing will help us out in a few weeks when we hit the Jura up! I am very excited to get out there and big thanks to everyone who has been sending me lists of some of the best routes to get on!
Anyway some of the top sends over the last few days have been: Into the Light Direct 7C+, Dark Art 8A, Dark Beta 8A, and Wrestling with my Dangerous Soul, a potential 8A+... from where I started on the back wall. No idea about this one really but a good line with a fair few hard pulls. If you've not visited this place yet, I'd really recommend you check it out. If only to get away from the usual limestone spots. Have a gander at the video just below of the problem Dark Art and fingers crossed this rain doesn't ruin the lime for us, as people are really starting to get back into it!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Fingers n Veins (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/fingers-n-veins.html)
15 April 2012, 6:08 pm
Wrestling with my Dangerous Soul
I've had a bit of a bruised finger for a few days now, so had to take a bit of time out and rest up, but it came at a good time as I've been helping out a bunch of PhD students at Loughbourgh university with their study into how effective the arms blood vessels, among climbers, are at delivering blood. So the finger setback hasn't bothered me too much as I wasn't supposed to really train while they performed their tests, plus I was in need of a few days off! It'll be really cool to see the full results when they are published, it was definitely interesting seeing the arteries rushing with blood on the ultrasound as they released the clap from my arm! Below is the study overview for those that are interested.
Elite rock climbers have a highly adapted forearm vasculature, when compared to the sedentary population. For example, we have previously demonstrated that the blood flow capacity, and blood flow during exercise, was much higher in the rock climbers compared to non-climbing control subjects. However, this study is not able to identify the mechanisms for this higher blood flow capacity, which could be due to structural and functional changes in the artery supplying the forearm (brachial artery), or a higher number of capillaries within the forearm.
Therefore, this study aims to examine artery structure and function, and capillarity, in a population of elite rock climbers, and compare them to a group of non-climbing control subjects.
I'll be sure to post up the report of their findings soon as they email them through. Out.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-6458910813412336925?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Rainy day syke (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/rainy-day-syke.html)
18 April 2012, 4:43 pm
Check out this cool video of our homie Hannah Wilson, getting down with it on the blocs. Keep the psyche going on a rainy day!
And for those that haven't seen this trailer from Nikon be sure to have a look! Its definitely worth another watch. I'm off snorkling now, cheers.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The Jura is looming! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/jura-is-looming.html)
24 April 2012, 6:13 pm
Not long now till myself and Ted fly out to Germany for a couple weeks and get stuck into the incredible looking routes the place has to offer. We fly out from Manchester Thursday night and then hopefully be hitting the crags Friday! Really stoked to meet up with our good friend Tanja out there, along with a few members of the German climbing team, who will give us the grand tour and fingers crossed not feed us too much cake!
The finger is feeling much better now, although still a little stiff but we've had some really good indoor sessions in the last week and its definitely getting there. So hopefully we'll be fine getting involved with all these pockets and mono's!
The Frankenjura apparently has over 1000 crags with approx 7000 routes! More than enough to keep us going that's for sure. Anyway I'll be keeping the blog rolling while we're out there, so check back in to see how we're getting on.
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Deutschland JA! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/04/deutschland-ja.html)
30 April 2012, 5:54 pm
We have been blown away by the amount of rock here. We were expecting it to be pretty amazing but their are more crags littered around than you can imagine. Its been awesome to see Tanja again and see some of the local area. The weather here has been incredible with it touching 35 degrees on our first day, which made a bit of a change from the UK!
We're on a rest day right now, and just got back from the school where Tanja works, as she asked us to come and talk with her students and help them out with their English. It was a bit of a surprise for them I think but it went really well. The big difference between being here and France last year is that pretty much everybody speaks English, even if only a little, which is pretty cool and a real bonus when trying to find your way around.
Below are a few shots from our trip so far, just had time to upload them before we hit the local village for a big Mayday festival. Auf gehts!
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Back int Peak (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/05/back-int-peak.html)
9 May 2012, 2:59 pm
Our time in the Jura has come to an end and we're now sitting back at home watching the rain fall outside. We both had an amazing 12 days over there, after a shaky start involving a hire car that refused to start, but it all came good and we were able to climb some pretty sick lines and party German style with our friends! There are just so many fantastic routes to do and we barely even scratched the surface. We'll definitely be going back in the near future to finish off projects and explore the forests some more!
Some of our favorite ascents of the trip were:
King Lui, 7c - Flash
Ekel, 7c+ - Second go
Leftfield, 8a
Pretty Girl, 7c+/8a - Second go
Massaker, 7c - Second go
Huge thanks go out to Tanja and her family for giving us somewhere to stay and showing us around. We really appreciated all of your help!
For the Ceuse end of trip report last year I just uploaded a bucket load of pictures and I'm going to do the same again this time, so take a look. They do all the story telling for you!
Rustam Gelmanov filming on Action Direct!
Coburg
Off to church on our rest day
Nurnburg
Ted preaching to the masses
Off to school
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Some grit... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/05/some-grit.html)
15 May 2012, 6:45 pm
Since getting back I've been adjusting to Peak life again which has seen a return to the grit! We thought this stuff was done for the season but I spent the weekend hanging out on the edges with the Hamer homies pottering up a few routes. We did the classic E5 Goosey Goosey Gander on Saturday and then a trip to Ramshaw the following day where Sam smoothly dispatched Never Never Land E7 6b in his usual cool style. Myself and Ed got syked for the lead then decided we were more keen for a brew and roast dinner back at the crib!
I'm currently editing a load of footage we took in Germany so I'll post it up soon as its all done, be sure to check in and give it a watch. It'll be nothing special, just a couple of muppets dossing around and doing the odd bit of climbing! Peace
Goosey
Ed forgot to tie in...
Some new hero
Having a moment in the cafe
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Summertime (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/05/summertime.html)
22 May 2012, 6:29 pm
Summer might finally be showing some signs of getting itself in gear this week and not before time! Hopefully it might dry the soggy lime out and people can get back on track. Feeling pretty strong right now and doing a lot of training so really hoping the weather stays like it is at the minute. I'm still working on the Germany video but check out the highlights below of the Mammut Blocmaster IFSC World Cup that was held over the weekend. Big up to Team GB who crushed it out in Innsbruck and the Juniors that kept it real at the European Youth Cup in Ratho!
Also if you've not checked out John Ellison's page yet on Justgiving, then go give him your support. I've only really met John a once or twice but I know he's a top guy and done a massive amount for the British Team over the years. Go help him reach his target! http://www.justgiving.com/John-Ellison-CR
Peace out and word to the youth chillin in Spain right now, use all that Haddon training to the max bro. x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-211506105273106411?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Costa del Peak (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/05/costa-del-peak.html)
28 May 2012, 10:32 am
Here are some cool shots from the weekend in the sun! Shout out to Kristian again for his re-bolting efforts on Moat Buttress. If you fancy somewhere different with some quality rigs then get yourself down to the waters edge! Cheers.
Hallowed be My Name, 7c+
Let the Tripe Increase, 7c
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Team update (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/05/team-update.html)
30 May 2012, 1:53 pm
Head on over to UKClimbing to find out what the Mammut team have been up to during the last couple of months.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=4631
Hot again today so we're resting up and chilling before getting back on it tomorrow. Ice cream and fresh orange juice all round!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5320640516393966843?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Pump and Cheese! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/06/pump-and-cheese.html)
4 June 2012, 8:15 pm
Here are some pretty rad shots Seth took on his iphone at the weekend. This line is incredible, not usually my bag 40 meter rigs but these longer routes are where its at right now. Loving the pump! Heading to Bristol on Friday to check out Cheddar and see what the climbing is all about down there. We are stoked!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4779334166026881658?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Waiting for summer to arrive... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/06/waiting-for-summer.html)
21 June 2012, 9:43 am
Currently sat with a hot brew looking through the window as I write this , watching more wet weather unfold and wondering if the summer will every actually properly arrive this year... It's been a pretty shocking last few weeks, dodging the rain and a hell of a lot of training indoors.
The trip down Bristol didn't amount to much but it was good to be somewhere different and keeping things fresh. We wasn't totally impressed with the climbing in the Cheddar but it did redeem itself in the end when we all sent the super cool line 'Valley of the Blind'.
I love my sponsors! Cheers guys for hooking me up with some more rad kit!
Right now its all about training for the long stuff for when we all go away in a few weeks time. Steep euro limestone on tufa's is the plan with amazing rest days chilling on the beach thrown in as well!
It was also my 21st birthday last week and big thanks to everyone that made it a good one! Love ya'll, peace x
Below is a cool video from the guys at Mammut, something to watch on another rainy day...
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4786815237797889309?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Turning up the heat! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/03/turning-heat-up.html)
27 March 2012, 7:05 pm
Since doing Offspring the other week I was really keen to try Masters of the Universe, E7 6b which is the stunning, hanging arete of the Cioch block. So last week I headed back to the place with bold grit man, Nathan Lee, who was equally syked to give it a go. We went through the moves and got set up for giving it a burn. This is another route were you have to abseil in to start climbing after tying off the ab rope at the bottom to back up the rather rusty looking old bolts! I managed to get the flash in the end, after a brief, spooky moment half way up the arete, with a large beckoning fall looming below! We got some footage of Nathans ascent so have a look. It might be soft for E7 and probably more like E6 but who cares, its another sick route and one that should get more attention! You can also get a good view below of Tom and Ed finishing up this route after doing the traverse on Silent Scream.
Big up to Ed as well for his ascent of the 8B, Keen Roof, a few days ago. Word up home boy!
We seem to have been suddenly hit by an intense heat wave since the start of the weekend but we still kept up the grit trad mission on Saturday and boshed out Poached Salmon, E5 6b at Bamford. Pretty tough in the heat but steady as she goes youth.
Today though we decided it was time for some more lime action, so we checked out Squirrel Buttress just up the river from the Tor! Ed and myself both managed the 7C here, Candy Kaned before blasting over to Crag X and doing another 7C Moffatrocity. Then it was time for a feet up sesh in Bakewell with bread n cheese, chillin with the old people! Got a quick video if anyone is keen for some beta on Candy.
Off up Scotland tomorrow for a couple days, building a climbing wall at a school in Edinburgh. Will let ya'll know how that goes. Going for some chocolate digestives now, peace.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-1831951497397669564?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Vive la France! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/vive-la-france.html)
5 July 2012, 6:46 pm
Its still raining out there and its starting to get hard to keep motivation levels up. However we are now officially off to the Gorge du Loup in France at the end of the month for the whole of August! We're so pysched to pull on some dry rock and perfect euro tufa, chill out on the coast and forget about what a bad summer its been so far here at home. Its not like none of us haven't been making an effort to get outside here though, we've still managed to find stuff to do, in between getting incredibly soaked in the torrential downpours. Here are few snaps from the past few weeks showing whats been going on.
Cheers to Ed hanging on a rope getting wet for these
Not syked...
England lads...
Local youths out to see the torch in Bakers
Off to Cliffhanger at the weekend, hope the sun comes out! Massive good luck to all our friends competing in the British Championships over both the days as well! Allezzzzz!
Out.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7685536175407077917?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Before the rain came (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/before-rain-came.html)
10 July 2012, 6:17 pm
Here are a few shots my good homie Jon Clark took at Anston before the weather completely screwed up. Cheers bro! Its all good guys.
Dark Reservation, V12
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Mammut Trion Light (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/trion-light.html)
16 July 2012, 3:03 pm
I've not really done something like this before but a few people have been asking me recently about various bits of kit in the Mammut range so thought I would post up a couple of short reviews on some of my favourite products!
If you're after a super lightweight backpack for those long days out on the mountains or for stashing all you need for a hit at the crag then the Trion Light is definitely up there with the best and worth investing in!
I've been using this pack now for the last few months and it is without doubt the lightest and most comfy bag I've ever owned at just 1100 grams, and can be stripped down to just the pure essentials to weigh only 620 grams! This bag is the real deal and looks freaking rad.
It also comes with a removable waterproof liner which is basically a dry bag, ensuring that all your kit stays totally bone dry. Something that has been tested to the max so far this summer...
Find out more at: http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/251002210_v_4171_40/Trion-Light.html
This pack is also the preferred choice for fellow Mammut athlete David Lama, check out what he's got to say about it below.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-4616733446530824039?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Stoney Action (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/stoney-action.html)
20 July 2012, 10:15 am
We spent some time hanging out on Garage Buttress at Stoney the other day, checking out a few of the routes and chillin in the sunshine! Good to be pulling on some dry rock and props to Sam on sending the full version of Little Plum. Some pics below
I also ticked Call of Nature, 8a at the Tor a few days ago. Not usually my thing these type of routes but enjoyed this for some reason... Longer rigs are where its at these days for sure.
The Big Apple
Sam making quick work of the first pitch of Little Plum
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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On the road again (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/au-revoir-langleterre.html)
27 July 2012, 11:55 am
Gorge du Loup
We leave for the south of France on Sunday for what should be an amazing month of climbing on some of the best limestone around. The pysche is very high right now as we finish packing and get everything sorted out. As well as looking forward to heading back to Nice, which for me is one of the coolest places to hang out in.
Be sure to check in on the blog as we'll be keeping it updated with the latest lowdown on whats been happening. In the mean time here are a couple of videos we found of some of the fantastic routes The Loup has to offer! This place is the business! Peace out ya'll
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Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Gorge du Loup! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/08/gorge-du-loup.html)
22 August 2012, 1:19 pm
We have been hanging out in the Loup now for three weeks, climbing on some of the best tufa in France and once again meeting a bunch of awesome people along the way! I find meeting and getting to know all the different types of people on these trips equally as good as the climbing. We are super excited to be back in this part of the world again!This is the first chance I've had to upload a blog here as the internet is pretty scarce around these parts, but here is a quick rundown on whats been happening.
Some big sends have gone down in our camp, and from team Slovenia. Gasper and Izzy have both taken down two 8c's each! Big up to those guys!We have also hooked up with a super strong lad from Germany, who the other day sent 'Kickass' a 9a established by local kid Enzo the week before. Auf Gehts!
A few days ago now I managed to bust out probably one of the shortest routes at the Deverse Sector, the super powerful and bouldery 8b 'New Power Generation'. A pretty rad little route for sure with some big moves!
We also have the sickest camp setup ever, right on top of the gorge, with an amazing view of the sea! And with the crag only a 5 minute drive away it means you can just be 100% focused on all the climbing.
I'm really syked to try and send as many routes here as possible before we head off to Briancon for a short while to hang with our good friend David Falt and sample some of the local crags there.
Will upload a load of pictures soon as we get chance! Thanks for checking in! Peace x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-2231549034552705033?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Another summer and trip over (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/09/another-summer-and-trip-over.html)
6 September 2012, 2:42 pm
We have just got back from our 5 week trip in the south of France! It hardly seems real that we've been gone for that long, the days really do seem to just blend into one when you have nothing to do or worry about every day other than what route you're going to climb next. It's taking a while to get used to being back under a solid roof every night after all the time spent chilling in Billy Bongo the van.
We all had an absolutely rad time out there climbing at some fantastic crags in the gorge and hanging out in the Cote d'Azur, which is by far one of the coolest spots I've visited in France. We were joined out there by friends from Germany, Slovenia, Poland and quite a large party of Brits. There was always plenty of banter flying around the place between us all!
Some pretty sick stuff went down from everyone in our crew, with Ed on top of his game, ticking 3 8c's among a whole bunch of other impressive sends! Big waddage to me homie from Bakers!
The incredible sector of Deverse!
I tried one of the 8c's the youth did 'Quenelle Trophy' and felt like it's something I could definitely have a good chance of doing with some more time. Sadly though we ran out of this in the end and I wasn't able to give it some proper burns. But it got me pretty dam stoked! Next time...
As always on these trips we met another bunch of really awesome people from all over the world and witnessed some freaking dam impressive climbing from them as well. A short while after clipping the chains on New Power I watched a young girl from the French team step up and totally beast it. These European youths sure know where its at and how to crush!
Edwardo powering his way up 'New Power Sacrifice' 8c
So much happened over the period we were there for that it would be impossible to get it all down, and I know that too much writing can start to get boring so I'll leave you with all the pictures and let those tell the story again. Big up to everyone that made it such a bossin trip! VENGAA!
Right now we are busy planning our next trip... and getting syked for the grit season again, which is fast approaching! Lets hope for a good winter...
Thanks for stopping by, peaceeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
New Power Generation! 8b
Qoussai, 8a+
German beast Daniel Jung taking a breather from his studies...
Another sweet effort from Pinti
Hot Chilli X, 8c - Izzy on the take-down!
Nat on her way to sending her first 8b! Sick effort!
Alex on Abyss, 9a!
Wasted! Climbing these 9a's is hard man!
The Lettered Man! Training in Antibes...
Gimps at large! Starting to lose our minds...
Some pedo lurking around the camp
Gourdon crew out in numbers
Our last bit of food...
Last night, waiting in Calais, before heading home!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-5276334719330823396?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: Climbing life and experiences (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Times are a changin' (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/10/times-are-changin.html)
2 October 2012, 12:26 pm
Its been a few weeks now since we got back to the home crib and we've just about got back into the swing of Peak life. Autumn is definitely fully here now with colder mornings, the nights closing in as well as having to deal with freezing fingers at the crag! Me and Ed spent a weekend checking out a few lines away from the crowds a short while ago and sent a knarly rig on Garage at Stoney called The Big Apple, 8a before we cruised over to do Tomb Raider, another 8a just around the corner from the Tor. If you want something different and a bit new then go seek them out, you deffo won't be queueing for these!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MMkOOXFlZGg/UGrWxJ7xEJI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Fh8g06lVcJ0/s200/DSC08859.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MMkOOXFlZGg/UGrWxJ7xEJI/AAAAAAAAB_8/Fh8g06lVcJ0/s1600/DSC08859.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9B1oEWZHAc/UGrW-L842XI/AAAAAAAACAE/yGaH-LB-VC8/s200/DSC08814.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H9B1oEWZHAc/UGrW-L842XI/AAAAAAAACAE/yGaH-LB-VC8/s1600/DSC08814.JPG)
We kicked off the grit season at Millstone the day after doing the slabtastic 'Sniveling Sh*ts'. So stoked for the grit again, got the bug back instantly and hoping we'll be able to get plenty of stuff done over the winter.
Just spent a sick weekend partying and chillin in Hartington for Denise and Dan's 30th anniversary! Big thanks to them for putting on a great few days with plenty of music and amazing food!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BLmdih4gm64/UGr46e7__eI/AAAAAAAACA0/x8jbVK8Jl4U/s320/77896_10152132251245635_1252279579_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BLmdih4gm64/UGr46e7__eI/AAAAAAAACA0/x8jbVK8Jl4U/s1600/77896_10152132251245635_1252279579_o.jpg) Some maniac caught prowling the grounds
Anyway guys the European Outdoor Film Festival is coming to the UK this November, for the first time and is being sponsored by Mammut. Here is a teaser of whats on show! For tickets and more information go to http://www.eoft.eu/ There looks to be some pretty stunning footage lined up and I can guarantee it will leave you feeling truly inspired.
Finally as well as all that, if you've not seen the latest trailer for the Reel Rock Tour 7 then I recommend you check it out below. This years line up looks totally radical and we are super pumped to go and see it next weekend. Our good friend and top alpinist David Falt will be visiting us for a couple of days as well, so we're hoping to get out on some grit and show the lad around.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7756313432148034493?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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You gotta go big sometimes son! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/10/you-gotta-go-big-sometimes-son.html)
24 October 2012, 2:52 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MC4BszHbij8/UIe7cHaxeVI/AAAAAAAACGk/2M9ZkSvCiao/s320/DSC02511.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MC4BszHbij8/UIe7cHaxeVI/AAAAAAAACGk/2M9ZkSvCiao/s1600/DSC02511.JPG)
Its been a good while since my last post. Time seems to be rushing by at crazy speeds at the moment its sometimes hard to keep track. The autumn so far though has been pretty decent with good conditions for both the lime and grit. I really like mixing the two up at this time of year. It keeps things interesting and means you can get totally wasted on the lime one day but still have enough left in the tank for a good day out on the grit the next. I got a call last week from an old friend who wanted to come out with us to shoot some pictures, so I immediately thought of heading on over to Millstone to try a route that someone had shown me last winter. The line sits high in the sky, right above the famous Masters Edge, giving climbing in a slightly unusual position with plenty of exposure! It was a big relief to top out on this one and give the season a really good kickstart. We were also joined by Jerome, a good mate of ours from London, who made a quick ascent of this sketchy rig as well. Super impressed with this lads efforts, very cool given it was one of his first hard grit routes! The pictures came out pretty awesome, massive thanks again to Usherwood for these snaps!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSgWQfSt6s/UIfiGbtr2fI/AAAAAAAACKg/ZuPHpPM3gjw/s200/DSC02494.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DqSgWQfSt6s/UIfiGbtr2fI/AAAAAAAACKg/ZuPHpPM3gjw/s1600/DSC02494.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tfF5js6Kkx4/UIfkrCDVzcI/AAAAAAAACKo/vsBWVt10A4Q/s200/DSC02505.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tfF5js6Kkx4/UIfkrCDVzcI/AAAAAAAACKo/vsBWVt10A4Q/s1600/DSC02505.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B6WaWgwwLPw/UIfnIh7VjSI/AAAAAAAACME/cwcw-RUmYaU/s320/DSC02518.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B6WaWgwwLPw/UIfnIh7VjSI/AAAAAAAACME/cwcw-RUmYaU/s1600/DSC02518.JPG)Mid crux on 'The Bad and the Beautiful' E7 6b
A week or two ago I also managed to do something new at the Tor, repeating 'Lets Get Ready to Rumbleweed'. It gets V11 this thing but in the end its all just training. Should have a quick video of this to post up sometime soon. Looking awful out there though today so a board sesh is calling and massive bowlful of stew! Below are a few more shots. Cheers x
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cDnfzqJ9v4I/UIfEzOvSxcI/AAAAAAAACIM/IUf9dc8KjZE/s320/DSC02561.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cDnfzqJ9v4I/UIfEzOvSxcI/AAAAAAAACIM/IUf9dc8KjZE/s1600/DSC02561.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SsiQhpZ14go/UIfFLF9CgZI/AAAAAAAACIU/5oVko66SumA/s320/DSC02631.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SsiQhpZ14go/UIfFLF9CgZI/AAAAAAAACIU/5oVko66SumA/s1600/DSC02631.JPG)Stoked after topping out!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SElSFVqicXg/UIfFmZDFz3I/AAAAAAAACIg/NDbrkHthEc8/s320/DSC02759.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SElSFVqicXg/UIfFmZDFz3I/AAAAAAAACIg/NDbrkHthEc8/s1600/DSC02759.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bjfsKBid7W8/UIfF_-o14zI/AAAAAAAACIo/KTPzN_hoUNM/s320/DSC02806.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bjfsKBid7W8/UIfF_-o14zI/AAAAAAAACIo/KTPzN_hoUNM/s1600/DSC02806.JPG)Ted gurning on the top of 'Blood and Guts on Botty Street, E5 6b
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qboBzseuIX8/UIfGbaT-TiI/AAAAAAAACI0/a7NF_-Rpuug/s320/DSC02828.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qboBzseuIX8/UIfGbaT-TiI/AAAAAAAACI0/a7NF_-Rpuug/s1600/DSC02828.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Fnd9PXt_yo/UIfG3BHI4aI/AAAAAAAACJA/o9NVvSj5AXg/s320/DSC02854.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--Fnd9PXt_yo/UIfG3BHI4aI/AAAAAAAACJA/o9NVvSj5AXg/s1600/DSC02854.JPG)Perfect end to the day, gotta love the grit!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-669495544836619817?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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good to see some pictures of bad and the beautiful, what a great move, good effort.
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Loughborough Uni research proj (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/10/loughborough-uni-research-proj.html)
30 October 2012, 1:26 pm
Early on this year I took part in a study at Loughborough University, helping some PhD students out with their research into how effective the blood vessels in climbers are at delivering blood. It was a really cool day hanging out in the labs and checking out all their ghetto equipment.
Here was the study overview again.
Elite rock climbers have a highly adapted forearm vasculature, when compared to the sedentary population. For example, we have previously demonstrated that the blood flow capacity, and blood flow during exercise, was much higher in the rock climbers compared to non-climbing control subjects. However, this study is not able to identify the mechanisms for this higher blood flow capacity, which could be due to structural and functional changes in the artery supplying the forearm (brachial artery), or a higher number of capillaries within the forearm.
Therefore, this study aims to examine artery structure and function, and capillarity, in a population of elite rock climbers, and compare them to a group of non-climbing control subjects.
Anyway they sent me the results a while back and I thought I'd put them up for the people that might find them of interest...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N5mg6EFdyqg/UI64Mg_tUEI/AAAAAAAACN8/T4CWa_-RJqQ/s320/Picture+184.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N5mg6EFdyqg/UI64Mg_tUEI/AAAAAAAACN8/T4CWa_-RJqQ/s1600/Picture+184.png)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20KwLaxlkpk/UI64HJp7SjI/AAAAAAAACNk/P_Ts6cK0Qgw/s320/Picture+181.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20KwLaxlkpk/UI64HJp7SjI/AAAAAAAACNk/P_Ts6cK0Qgw/s1600/Picture+181.png)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pngE_WB-y08/UI64IAa5dzI/AAAAAAAACNo/z4EANzAc7kE/s320/Picture+182.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pngE_WB-y08/UI64IAa5dzI/AAAAAAAACNo/z4EANzAc7kE/s1600/Picture+182.png)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-05bUNW7dc1Y/UI64I67lzAI/AAAAAAAACN0/z_hpT6ovrxY/s320/Picture+183.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-05bUNW7dc1Y/UI64I67lzAI/AAAAAAAACN0/z_hpT6ovrxY/s1600/Picture+183.png)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8099085444674762964?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Loughborough Uni research proj (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/10/loughborough-uni-research-proj.html)
30 October 2012, 1:26 pm
Early on this year I took part in a study at Loughborough University, helping some PhD students out with their research into how effective the blood vessels in climbers are at delivering blood. It was a really cool day hanging out in the labs and checking out all their ghetto equipment.
Here was the study overview again.
Elite rock climbers have a highly adapted forearm vasculature, when compared to the sedentary population. For example, we have previously demonstrated that the blood flow capacity, and blood flow during exercise, was much higher in the rock climbers compared to non-climbing control subjects. However, this study is not able to identify the mechanisms for this higher blood flow capacity, which could be due to structural and functional changes in the artery supplying the forearm (brachial artery), or a higher number of capillaries within the forearm.
Therefore, this study aims to examine artery structure and function, and capillarity, in a population of elite rock climbers, and compare them to a group of non-climbing control subjects.
Anyway they sent me the results a while back and I thought I'd put them up for the people that might find them of interest...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N5mg6EFdyqg/UI64Mg_tUEI/AAAAAAAACN8/T4CWa_-RJqQ/s320/Picture+184.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N5mg6EFdyqg/UI64Mg_tUEI/AAAAAAAACN8/T4CWa_-RJqQ/s1600/Picture+184.png)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20KwLaxlkpk/UI64HJp7SjI/AAAAAAAACNk/P_Ts6cK0Qgw/s320/Picture+181.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20KwLaxlkpk/UI64HJp7SjI/AAAAAAAACNk/P_Ts6cK0Qgw/s1600/Picture+181.png)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pngE_WB-y08/UI64IAa5dzI/AAAAAAAACNo/z4EANzAc7kE/s320/Picture+182.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pngE_WB-y08/UI64IAa5dzI/AAAAAAAACNo/z4EANzAc7kE/s1600/Picture+182.png)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-05bUNW7dc1Y/UI64I67lzAI/AAAAAAAACN0/z_hpT6ovrxY/s320/Picture+183.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-05bUNW7dc1Y/UI64I67lzAI/AAAAAAAACN0/z_hpT6ovrxY/s1600/Picture+183.png)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8099085444674762964?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
More training science - loving it
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Summer Shoot (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/11/photo-shoot.html)
5 November 2012, 6:10 pm
Back in the middle of last summer, on a scorching hot day I headed out with Ed and Sam down the Tor to meet up with Keith Sharples for a bit of a photo shoot. Keith was keen to get some shots of Ed on Waddage for his new 2013 Calender. After this we got set up and I jumped on the 8a, Call of Nature. Big thanks to Keith for these below! Check out his website here www.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk (http://www.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/) where you can see more of his work and buy the new Calender which is out today. It looks pretty awesome!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BekkaU2b2CA/UJf3NgiQGXI/AAAAAAAACQw/eP3WIbsEPis/s320/DSC_2877.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BekkaU2b2CA/UJf3NgiQGXI/AAAAAAAACQw/eP3WIbsEPis/s1600/DSC_2877.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SbKRIDiayNQ/UJf3Lr9tENI/AAAAAAAACQo/M3rzLrARSgA/s320/DSC_2861.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SbKRIDiayNQ/UJf3Lr9tENI/AAAAAAAACQo/M3rzLrARSgA/s1600/DSC_2861.jpg)I'm also very syked to be joining up with a several new companies. ProBalm (http://www.probalm.co.uk/index.php), HatsfortheHill (http://hatsforthehill.com/) and LiquidGripUK (http://liquidgrip.co.uk/). Big thanks to these guys for all their support! They make some really amazing stuff and I'm very syked to be representing and working with them. So check out their websites and give them a follow on Twitter etc. Cheers ya'll!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-3848419406091085408?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Grit grit grit (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/11/grit-grit-grit.html)
22 November 2012, 10:20 am
So the last couple of weeks have seen us wrapping things up on the limestone and starting to get stuck into some grit again. It doesn't seem like 5 minutes since we were doing the same thing this time last year but here we are again, round and round we go! It is a great feeling to be back out on the edges, with so many routes to try. The only downside being how short the days are at this time of year... However you just gotta get stuck in! I've written up a big list of routes that I'd love to try this winter and I'm really excited to tick off as many as possible. We will SEE!
Here are just some of the stuff that we've been up to:
Ben's Roof Extenstion Start - V11
Weedkiller - 7c+
Pulsar Direct - E6 6b
Moon Crack - E5 6b
The Power of the Dark Side - E6/7/8 6b.....?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DEQSdE9ZRdI/UKoDhW5mdcI/AAAAAAAACT0/3wmFV7dHfAE/s320/DSC09050.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DEQSdE9ZRdI/UKoDhW5mdcI/AAAAAAAACT0/3wmFV7dHfAE/s1600/DSC09050.JPG)Sunset up at Higgar
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QNtyGsLsMb4/UKoDoi-3a1I/AAAAAAAACT8/NfRcMel5z-0/s320/DSC09038.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QNtyGsLsMb4/UKoDoi-3a1I/AAAAAAAACT8/NfRcMel5z-0/s1600/DSC09038.JPG) Dave setting up for the crux on Pulsar Direct, E6 6b The weather has been pretty good as well with some decent temps coming along making things nice and sticky! Yesterday was one of those perfect gritstone days, cold, crisp and were everything is just right. We found ourselves up at Bank Quarry in Matlock to give Pearson's route 'The Power of the Dark Side' a try. When you first look up, you're like " **** that's high!" but once you get your head in the game it starts to become less daunting. The landing however is pretty dreadful, and if you were to blow it then a VERY spicey drop into the abyss below is beckoning.
It was a great feeling to top out on this anyway, just as the sun was going down and one of those moments were everything just clicks and comes together.
Originally this used to be given E8 but nowadays it seems to have settled around the E7 mark. But to be honest, I have no idea about these things, so screw it dawggg! A truly classic route, on a perfect set of holds and one of the best around I'd say.
Big thanks to Matt Usherwood for coming out again and filming this for us, have a look at the short video he put together below.
Just had this short clip sent through as well of us on 'Let's Get Ready To Rumbleweed' at the Tor. Myself and Sam had a brilliant day out down here a month or so back. Good links! Cheers to Michael for sending us this!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EuniNmMz0p0/UKv0WGWusqI/AAAAAAAACYU/J8BAjnwyQXU/s320/DSC_0219.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EuniNmMz0p0/UKv0WGWusqI/AAAAAAAACYU/J8BAjnwyQXU/s1600/DSC_0219.jpg)Sam high up, post crux on Waddage, 8b - Respect! © Michael Bate
Oh we had a great time a couple weeks ago hanging out with our good friends Tanja and Sonja over from Deutschland. Really cool to see them again and we had some awesome days out introducing them to a bit of grit bouldering, fish and chips and the Sheffield party scene!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-44LV-NfAHOg/UKoMec9fmDI/AAAAAAAACVU/Ye1VyEAXiqs/s320/44482_4655792083150_1443064129_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-44LV-NfAHOg/UKoMec9fmDI/AAAAAAAACVU/Ye1VyEAXiqs/s1600/44482_4655792083150_1443064129_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pgZ67VuNcBE/UKoMhrfuwkI/AAAAAAAACVc/6S0AsSN6x80/s200/557719_4655785122976_444150460_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pgZ67VuNcBE/UKoMhrfuwkI/AAAAAAAACVc/6S0AsSN6x80/s1600/557719_4655785122976_444150460_n.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aeGBK4hGyTo/UKoMqvUTvsI/AAAAAAAACVk/KK4Zo3YE7i0/s200/P1060622.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aeGBK4hGyTo/UKoMqvUTvsI/AAAAAAAACVk/KK4Zo3YE7i0/s1600/P1060622.JPG)
Lastly just a quick reminder, I mentioned a few weeks ago the European Outdoor Film Tour kicks off this weekend in Manchester. There is some fantastic looking stuff lined up so if you are around or need some extra psyche come along! Tour dates are below, more info and tickets can be found here. www.eoft.eu (http://www.eoft.eu/)
Here is the trailer!
- Manchester, 8pm 25th November at the Dancehouse (http://www.thedancehouse.co.uk/)
- Glasgow, 8pm 26th November at the Glasgow Film Theatre (http://www.glasgowfilm.org/theatre/)
- Bristol 8pm 27th November, St George's (http://www.stgeorgesbristol.co.uk/)
- London, 8pm 28th November at the Royal Geographic Society (http://www.rgs.org/HomePage.htm)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7273822889550853779?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Boss day out! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/12/boss-day-out.html)
3 December 2012, 3:55 pm
I woke up early Saturday morning and immediately heard the rain hammering it down on my skylight... A lovely start to the day, so it was straight back to sleep. About an hour later we got up and after checking the Met again we had a drive out. Extremely cold and fresh but everything was dry and the sun was out! Time to shine!
About a week ago I went back to Higgar and ticked the old Neil Foster route, Block and Tackle, E6 6c. Not long after the weather closed in big time and we had to bail but not before Sam made a quick ascent of the neglected route Linkline, another E6 that takes the blank wall to the right of Bat out of Hell. I was really keen to return for a blast as well.
After warming up Saturday morning I was a bit unsure about whether it would even be possible for routes with the wind chill making it feel proper bitter, but I tied in, set off and the next thing I knew I was standing on the top of the block! I don't know why this route gets ignored, but its one of the best lines at the crag. More people should go try it and find out for themselves! Don't listen to what others say about it being heinous. IT IS FINE!
I think Higgar has to be one of my favourite grit crags, a lot of hard routes, safe, and steep!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d46nMiT9mJc/ULyVUJQtCWI/AAAAAAAACaA/EDtWnqidcDw/s400/DSC09102.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d46nMiT9mJc/ULyVUJQtCWI/AAAAAAAACaA/EDtWnqidcDw/s1600/DSC09102.JPG)
The conditions were feeling amazing and anyone who was out over the weekend will agree that your hands were pretty much sticking like glue to virtually any hold you touched!
Later on we met up with Ted over at Burbage West. We were both up for trying Western Eyes, a full on classic fridge hugging grit mission. I had come close on this last winter falling near to the top, and after warming up again it went down! Fantastic day, just a shame it didn't last longer. But I guess we only have another few weeks before the days will start to get a little longer again.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_mJ4UO_TYT4/ULyUcN-69PI/AAAAAAAACZ4/4yFb0srndq0/s320/DSC09151.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_mJ4UO_TYT4/ULyUcN-69PI/AAAAAAAACZ4/4yFb0srndq0/s1600/DSC09151.JPG)Ted on Western Eyes, V10
It was good to hear about so many ascents over the weekend. One I was particular syked to hear about was Sam's send of Dangerous Crocs Snogging over at Ramshaw. I know he's been after the perfect weather window for this one for a while now and he nailed it yesterday! Good one bru.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JQCfx2f_vmg/ULyVcKrxdUI/AAAAAAAACaI/Su0tVq4Z7Xg/s320/DSC09169.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JQCfx2f_vmg/ULyVcKrxdUI/AAAAAAAACaI/Su0tVq4Z7Xg/s1600/DSC09169.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-amdTVSsYvYY/ULyVhXM2jWI/AAAAAAAACaQ/MHT5PUbqwRA/s320/DSC09118.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-amdTVSsYvYY/ULyVhXM2jWI/AAAAAAAACaQ/MHT5PUbqwRA/s1600/DSC09118.JPG)
If anyone is around in Stockport Tuesday night, pop into Awesome Walls for the Mammut Test Event Tour. We'll be there running some coaching workshops and gear demo's from about 6pm. Then Thursday night we'll be doing the same at the Liverpool Awesome Walls.
We are all pumped up for the Climbing Works birthday party this Friday, as if its a year since the last one! Hopefully we'll be able to get out the day after... maybe. See how everyone is feeling!
Outz ya'll
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-7268107446995161797?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Pearls of Wisdom (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/12/pearls-of-wisdom.html)
17 December 2012, 4:27 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_k6seKiPLPE/UM8DPTMOukI/AAAAAAAACd4/cZ5ONFB4y-Y/s400/IMAG0834-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_k6seKiPLPE/UM8DPTMOukI/AAAAAAAACd4/cZ5ONFB4y-Y/s1600/IMAG0834-1.jpg)
How totally inspiring was it, watching the BBC Sports Personality of the Year last night! So many world class, dedicated athletes with incredibly moving stories. "Súper emocional" as Daila would say! It has been a magical year for sport and last night did a pretty decent job of summing all that up. Unfortunately we missed the Olympics over the summer as we were all in the Gorge du Loup, but I would get texts from home each day giving us updates on everything that had been going down. Which just about kept us in touch with the world.
The amount of training, commitment and effort that these guys put in is so so motivating and really makes you want to work and push yourself harder. If you want to improve and become a better athlete then you have to really put the time and effort in. So get fired up, make sure you're doing what you're doing for the right reasons, have fun and remember... LISTEN to your body!
Anyway enough of my pearls ya'll. Last Thursday Ed and myself got psyched to hike up to the very end of Stanage and give Low Rider a burn. Neither of us had been further than Marble Wall before and it definitely felt like a mini adventure as we trekked along and the crag slowly began to peter out. Temps were prime, around -5 degrees and we were both proper stoked to get the tick and not have to walk back up again! If you've not seen the video Ed put together than take a look below.
Thanks to Jon Fullwood for seeking out this bloc. It feels like you're right on the edge out there, which you are really... you could stay up there for a week and probably not see a single person. A great find and great bit of grit!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-buIchjFBgzs/UM7--xhhJnI/AAAAAAAACb4/xUzumMeHaXo/s400/Low+Rider.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-buIchjFBgzs/UM7--xhhJnI/AAAAAAAACb4/xUzumMeHaXo/s1600/Low+Rider.jpg)
I also had another sweet day out a short while back with my homies, this time up at Froggatt. Totally baltic but the sun was out, and after the odd bit of cake we all got onboard the send train. Sam made quick work of The Mint 400, E6 6b and Sole Power, V9. Ed somehow managed to fight the bitter cold at the end of the day and climb Business Lunch E5/V9, and I got a tick of Narcissus, E6 6b. Sketch, but its all in the mind, shut it out and squeeze! Grit mode is for sure in full swing right now!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rG46hzRqHrs/UM8C4kVzNCI/AAAAAAAACdQ/0UGdyw88NUg/s200/IMAG0808-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rG46hzRqHrs/UM8C4kVzNCI/AAAAAAAACdQ/0UGdyw88NUg/s1600/IMAG0808-1.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw6X3ouSf0s/UM8DLE95apI/AAAAAAAACdw/OcbQ8XgG79w/s200/IMAG0833.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Dw6X3ouSf0s/UM8DLE95apI/AAAAAAAACdw/OcbQ8XgG79w/s1600/IMAG0833.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NdWl2tlZno/UM8-yUmqFaI/AAAAAAAACgw/LKf--6bxGCo/s320/edlowrider.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3NdWl2tlZno/UM8-yUmqFaI/AAAAAAAACgw/LKf--6bxGCo/s1600/edlowrider.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wXHyZq7rzGw/UM8C-kLNPpI/AAAAAAAACdY/dNWZubyuOY0/s320/IMAG0810.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wXHyZq7rzGw/UM8C-kLNPpI/AAAAAAAACdY/dNWZubyuOY0/s1600/IMAG0810.jpg) Getting prepped for The Works birthday party!
Ted then did this the next day... after partying till dawn and just 3 hours sleep. Nutter!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5HHJJ3TtvyM/UM8DCrvxtVI/AAAAAAAACdg/r2xbCrtmlX0/s320/IMAG0819-1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5HHJJ3TtvyM/UM8DCrvxtVI/AAAAAAAACdg/r2xbCrtmlX0/s1600/IMAG0819-1.jpg)Walk On By, V10
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OUhjAhKXRMQ/UM85CRrWGgI/AAAAAAAACfQ/6oABBUOw9b8/s320/IMAG0830.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OUhjAhKXRMQ/UM85CRrWGgI/AAAAAAAACfQ/6oABBUOw9b8/s1600/IMAG0830.jpg)A lovely present...
Have a MERRY CHRISTMAS everyone and thanks for stopping by. Lets hope the cold, crisp conditions arrive in time for the holidays. Have a mince pie on me. Happy climbing.
Peace x(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/2912734455289723080-8717677401524610730?l=ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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2012 highlights (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/12/2012-highlights.html)
28 December 2012, 6:20 pm
It's been another rad year for my climbing! Even through all the heinous weather we've had to battle here at home, I have done a whole tonne of amazing routes. Some took us by surprise and others I've wanted to do for as long as I can remember.
I have been able to break through into the next level with my bouldering, something that was a big aim for me at the start of the year, as well go on a bunch of cool trips around Europe with my homies.
I spent two weeks with Ted hanging out in the Frankenjura during the spring. One of the coolest spots to climb I've ever been, and pretty excited to return! I then headed to the Gorge du Loup in the south of France with the Hamer boys for most of the summer. I love traveling with these guys, we always have a hell of a lot of fun together and always push each other to the max with our climbing. I've done routes that without their support I can guarantee I wouldn't have made it!
The five weeks in France flew by, but it felt great to escape the UK for a while and chill. We've met loads more amazing people, from all around the world, over the past 12 months and we're looking forward to more of the same next year!
Anyway here is a quick list of my personal highlights of 2012, and some of my favourite photos. Really hard to choose as there are SOOOOO many, however these are just a few that stand out to me.
New Power Generation - 8b
Leftfield - 8a
Wrestling With My Dangerous Soul - V12
Dark Art - V11
Low Rider - V10
Western Eyes - V10
Masters of the Universe - E7 6b FLASH
Nosferatu - E6 6b FLASH
The Bad and the Beautiful - E7 6b
The Power of the Dark Side - E7 6b
Stanage Without Oxygen - E5 6c
The Beast of Bauston - E6 6b
Happy New Year to you all and huge thanks to everyone that stops by and reads my blog, it means a lot! Also a massive thanks to all my fantastic sponsors! These guys give us incredible support and I am very proud to be working alongside them all.
I am super stoked for 2013, its gona be a big one! We have a number of trips already planned and I'm just really looking forward to getting back on the road, seeing more places and to keep on pushing things forward. Bring it on boi, big up!
Peace x
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ar3h0eopeWk/UN3Q-KwzdbI/AAAAAAAACiM/T7DavbzlTCs/s200/BigAir,+E6.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ar3h0eopeWk/UN3Q-KwzdbI/AAAAAAAACiM/T7DavbzlTCs/s1600/BigAir,+E6.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fhF9YjmINGY/UN3RG_8bQgI/AAAAAAAACiU/Wb3ASSqFDh4/s200/DSC07405.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fhF9YjmINGY/UN3RG_8bQgI/AAAAAAAACiU/Wb3ASSqFDh4/s1600/DSC07405.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f_sVgGWoJcY/UN3RcYCkJKI/AAAAAAAACis/HzjQG41dYU4/s200/DSCF2067.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f_sVgGWoJcY/UN3RcYCkJKI/AAAAAAAACis/HzjQG41dYU4/s1600/DSCF2067.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ttYSI8IdrI/UN3RRAei8lI/AAAAAAAACic/8TBLEVsWPTU/s200/DSC08179.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ttYSI8IdrI/UN3RRAei8lI/AAAAAAAACic/8TBLEVsWPTU/s1600/DSC08179.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bXLTBcZbZgM/UN3SaWWo56I/AAAAAAAACjs/bPDxim26pao/s200/P1000270.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bXLTBcZbZgM/UN3SaWWo56I/AAAAAAAACjs/bPDxim26pao/s1600/P1000270.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-crb3BpuvMpA/UN3SuXwowRI/AAAAAAAACj8/9S2Bb6ZsEtM/s200/photo(27).JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-crb3BpuvMpA/UN3SuXwowRI/AAAAAAAACj8/9S2Bb6ZsEtM/s1600/photo(27).JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KcSWR9peiCI/UN3WaOHaiEI/AAAAAAAACnE/yHs-LLuYCWU/s200/IMAG0164-1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KcSWR9peiCI/UN3WaOHaiEI/AAAAAAAACnE/yHs-LLuYCWU/s1600/IMAG0164-1.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WvTnoccNnbU/UN3Wd68l5yI/AAAAAAAACnM/8d-vWMPppmw/s200/IMAG0168-1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WvTnoccNnbU/UN3Wd68l5yI/AAAAAAAACnM/8d-vWMPppmw/s1600/IMAG0168-1.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-93AYjTu5CKg/UN3aGgwUJeI/AAAAAAAACpA/DR5e7DOVguk/s200/301214_10152316710045635_2063283491_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-93AYjTu5CKg/UN3aGgwUJeI/AAAAAAAACpA/DR5e7DOVguk/s1600/301214_10152316710045635_2063283491_n.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_U5DwNE8ow/UN3aKyVLCVI/AAAAAAAACpM/fMablD03v0A/s320/398390_342072335825268_87486618_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U_U5DwNE8ow/UN3aKyVLCVI/AAAAAAAACpM/fMablD03v0A/s1600/398390_342072335825268_87486618_n.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gv4Kdfuvt1g/UN3Rp3CQpdI/AAAAAAAACi8/HTq9ew2IiV0/s320/IMAG0476-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gv4Kdfuvt1g/UN3Rp3CQpdI/AAAAAAAACi8/HTq9ew2IiV0/s1600/IMAG0476-1.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZcqiIVzwdg/UN3Ru8SRjUI/AAAAAAAACjE/2r-H0pOPWiM/s1600/IMAG0511-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mSA9Iv9O9Ew/UN3R3aJinHI/AAAAAAAACjM/YKUuO_j7pJw/s200/IMAG0522-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mSA9Iv9O9Ew/UN3R3aJinHI/AAAAAAAACjM/YKUuO_j7pJw/s1600/IMAG0522-1.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aZBWgT8xliM/UN3UdgE0shI/AAAAAAAAClY/_GTY6SQEAIE/s400/378206_10152098980830121_449921929_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aZBWgT8xliM/UN3UdgE0shI/AAAAAAAAClY/_GTY6SQEAIE/s1600/378206_10152098980830121_449921929_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9NoBd_gFc/UN3RXezXyLI/AAAAAAAACik/IhH5TXtiO_k/s200/DSC08859.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kc9NoBd_gFc/UN3RXezXyLI/AAAAAAAACik/IhH5TXtiO_k/s1600/DSC08859.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mQTxn_8I8Sg/UN3SSeguAKI/AAAAAAAACjk/7tQ3gJo2n9g/s200/NewPower,8b.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mQTxn_8I8Sg/UN3SSeguAKI/AAAAAAAACjk/7tQ3gJo2n9g/s1600/NewPower,8b.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZcqiIVzwdg/UN3Ru8SRjUI/AAAAAAAACjE/2r-H0pOPWiM/s200/IMAG0511-1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TZcqiIVzwdg/UN3Ru8SRjUI/AAAAAAAACjE/2r-H0pOPWiM/s1600/IMAG0511-1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnLHliv8I1g/UN3WSkxYFYI/AAAAAAAACm8/tK32CwC_mFM/s200/DSC_2861.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pnLHliv8I1g/UN3WSkxYFYI/AAAAAAAACm8/tK32CwC_mFM/s1600/DSC_2861.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_YDAglHk13I/UN3SPXEgz7I/AAAAAAAACjc/biAw8V3OyDc/s200/Low+Rider.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_YDAglHk13I/UN3SPXEgz7I/AAAAAAAACjc/biAw8V3OyDc/s1600/Low+Rider.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZW_p2eCraEM/UN3Sls_dpRI/AAAAAAAACj0/UkXUmMNrTc8/s320/The+Bad+and+the+Beautiful.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZW_p2eCraEM/UN3Sls_dpRI/AAAAAAAACj0/UkXUmMNrTc8/s1600/The+Bad+and+the+Beautiful.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oIBqnwfFdiY/UN3WhW3TMtI/AAAAAAAACnU/JbOoNCshQ_s/s320/IMAG0819-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oIBqnwfFdiY/UN3WhW3TMtI/AAAAAAAACnU/JbOoNCshQ_s/s1600/IMAG0819-1.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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N?kd and Trek Review (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/01/nakd-and-trek-review.html)
7 January 2013, 7:59 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n2x9nAB4Alw/UOsY_9SRwUI/AAAAAAAACuw/UY0JFg1KsYY/s320/Nakd+bars+group+shot+small.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-n2x9nAB4Alw/UOsY_9SRwUI/AAAAAAAACuw/UY0JFg1KsYY/s1600/Nakd+bars+group+shot+small.jpg)For the past few months most of my sessions have been partly fueled by some extremely tasty and healthy snacks from Natural Balanced Foods. They kindly offered to send me a load of their products to test and report back on what I thought. And so far, I've been really impressed. These little treats have made a lot of those cold days at the crag a bit brighter! They do two kinds of bars along with a variety of flapjacks, all packed with goodness! First up are their delicious Nakd bars. I was intrigued by the name at first and soon realised the inspiration behind it. They are in fact completely free of any additives and all the nasty stuff that is just plain no good for you. Instead they are just packed with raw fruit and nuts, and yet still taste amazing! These things give you that extra boost no matter what you're doing and come in a range of different flavours, from gingerbread to rubarb and custard! In a world when there are so many 'healthy' bars claiming to be the next best thing, Nakd bars really are the real deal. Here's what they the guys at Natural Balanced Foods have to say:
Our simplest and most beloved bars. Just raw fruits and nuts smooshed together. Containing 100% natural ingredients with no added sugars or syrups, these bars are also wheat and gluten free, and bursting with yummy goodness. With a soft, chewy texture they fill you up till your next meal and most count towards 1 of your 5 a day too. Ideal for lunchboxes, grabbing on the go and refuelling between meals!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AspfFUGDXqA/UOsUo9URZ6I/AAAAAAAACr4/JFi5o6Xv2r0/s320/Picture+182.png) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AspfFUGDXqA/UOsUo9URZ6I/AAAAAAAACr4/JFi5o6Xv2r0/s1600/Picture+182.png)Next up, the Trek bars. These again are made in the exact same way as the Nakd bars, however they come with a large helping of protein. They fill you up slightly more and I have really noticed them pick me up, especially in the middle of a long day out at the crag. Plus they are tonnes more nutritious than a pack of biscuits or chocolate bar! Which is what we usually fill our bags with... (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ztvm6Wp2EDY/UOsaoyLJLtI/AAAAAAAACwM/JqkLE1N0bHQ/s1600/125.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ztvm6Wp2EDY/UOsaoyLJLtI/AAAAAAAACwM/JqkLE1N0bHQ/s1600/125.jpg)
"With 11-12g of protein per bar, these beauties are at the top of the sports nutrition food chain! Made with a delicious combination of fruits, oats and nuts to keep you going, these healthy snacks are ideal for refuelling after the gym, and they also make great breakfasts on the go."
Here is a short video taken during the BBC Good Food Show 2011 where these guys showcased their yummy treats! If you're interested in trying for yourself and to find out more information check out their website here: www.naturalbalancefoods.co.uk (http://www.naturalbalancefoods.co.uk/)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Is there some way I can punter Ethan via this thread?
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just be the hustle hustle n'am saying?
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Is there some way I can punter Ethan via this thread?
No, the blog pile doesn't work like that, it simply sucks in the RSS feed from various blogs. Wad/puntering applies to individuals who have posted.
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Is there some way I can punter Ethan via this thread?
What have you got against flapjacks?? :shrug:
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Mammut Masterclass at The Foundry (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/01/mammut-masterclass-at-foundry_10.html)
10 January 2013, 6:19 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zlBlh4cBYU4/UO8DLlaMHVI/AAAAAAAACxw/_8-dJT95yHw/s320/jakob.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zlBlh4cBYU4/UO8DLlaMHVI/AAAAAAAACxw/_8-dJT95yHw/s1600/jakob.jpg)Kickstart a new year of climbing with a masterclass from Mammut Pro Team members and Team Mammut UK
Mammut Pro Team climbers, Jakob Schubert (http://www.jakob-schubert.at/) and Anna Stöhr (http://www.anna-stoehr.at/) are heading to the UK later this month and for a series of masterclasses. Jakob will be offering tips to lead climbers whilst Anna will be on the bouldering room. Whether you’ve just started out or are a seasoned climber get in touch to reserve your space!
Check out masterclass times on the Foundry website or their facebook page then call the Foundry to register. The Foundry will take names up to Tuesday 22nd January then pick the names of those in each masterclass out of a chalk bag! There are four spaces in each class and six classes in total.
FREE entry to The Foundry and freebies for masterclass students,
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MHq6R-OVri8/UO8DJRZf5wI/AAAAAAAACxo/nzEN4Ir4vGM/s400/anna.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MHq6R-OVri8/UO8DJRZf5wI/AAAAAAAACxo/nzEN4Ir4vGM/s1600/anna.jpg)© Reinhard Fichtinger
Win a place in one of these classes and you’ll get free entry to The Foundry for the day plus a free Mammut goody bag
Spot prizes and giveaways
Mammut will be dishing out random spot prizes and giveaways all afternoon – stickers, pens, toys, beanies!
Cash prize routes
The guys at The Foundry will be setting a couple of fiendishly hard routes – whoever gets the highest gets some cold hard cash!
Harness and belay device demos
We’ll have a range of climbing harnesses and belay kit from Mammut to try out.
Mammut Climbing Challenge
The all-new Mammut climbing challenge will be up and running with prizes a plenty! Twelve routes both top rope and lead from 5+ to 8b will be set for you to try.
Team Mammut UK on hand form tips and advice
Cailean Harker, Ethan Walker, Jess McCaskey, Nathan Lee and Oli Grounsell will be on hand for advice.
When? Saturday 26th January from 2.00 – 6.00pm
For more information visit www.foundryclimbing.com or call The Foundry on 0114 279 6331.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Bloc action (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/01/bloc-action.html)
25 January 2013, 11:35 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5eHeA4DWc9c/UQFFRmCovII/AAAAAAAACzk/u8gfx2l30C0/s400/Ethan_Domes-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5eHeA4DWc9c/UQFFRmCovII/AAAAAAAACzk/u8gfx2l30C0/s1600/Ethan_Domes-2.jpg)
Since the start of the year I've really been enjoying going out and doing a lot of bouldering. Mainly because it has been a bit too cold at times for routes, but its also great fun showing friends around areas they've never been and just doing a bunch of new stuff.
I've had a few sweet sessions at Rowtor with the crew, ticking things like Jon Fullwood's, My Apple and Domes Sitter, which has the most awesome sequence of burly roof techinical-ness. Grit bouldering at its best I'd say. Real big thanks to Jon Clark for the shots, this lad knows his stuff.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2frtxFlqkeQ/UQFE9atz-gI/AAAAAAAACzU/Gl-QuvGO20Y/s320/Ethan_Domes-3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2frtxFlqkeQ/UQFE9atz-gI/AAAAAAAACzU/Gl-QuvGO20Y/s1600/Ethan_Domes-3.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V9SeolzCEFE/UQFE-DjDHpI/AAAAAAAACzY/BDRy0jDfYts/s320/Ethan_Domes-4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V9SeolzCEFE/UQFE-DjDHpI/AAAAAAAACzY/BDRy0jDfYts/s1600/Ethan_Domes-4.jpg)
Ted and myself have also been busy up at Burbage where we both did the highball/route Nefertiti. Originally E6 6c... but these days more like a 7A boulder... HA I actually don't have a clue. It had been on the list for ages but just one I never got around to, so we thought screw it, chucked a few pads down and went for it. Seriously cool climbing, and safe as houses! Managed to get a quick video of the man of the hour on his send below...
I'm also full on psyched for training at the minute too, and spending a lot of time down the wall and hanging off the board at home. Trying to get strong for our upcoming trips abroad! Time is flying by like crazy and it won't be long before we're packing our bags again and jetting off.
Don't forget to pop down The Foundry this Saturday for a series of Mammut Masterclasses and cash prize routes! Come find us and say hello!
Cheers, I'm off to build a snowman and cook up a curry. x
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Mammut Team Meet (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/02/mammut-team-meet.html)
4 February 2013, 6:42 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HHxJgBxpXA/UQ_Z8MpcXcI/AAAAAAAAC2o/FKxzPlYH2fk/s400/_MG_5171.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4HHxJgBxpXA/UQ_Z8MpcXcI/AAAAAAAAC2o/FKxzPlYH2fk/s1600/_MG_5171.jpg)
It was great to meet up with team last weekend and big thanks firstly to Mammut for sorting everything out and making it possible and The Foundry for putting up with us all and being top hosts! There was a huge turnout and it was cool to see people psyched and getting involved. Hoping everyone enjoyed the masterclasses from Anna and Jakob and we're already looking forward to the next one.
It was a shame we couldn't get out on the grit for very long, but we did manage a few hours up at Curbar and an interesting short while at Minus Ten wall...
Also thanks to Mike Hutton for taking pictures all weekend!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rjctgmP-Oms/UQ_ZhMgCoVI/AAAAAAAAC2I/sZYlohOu84s/s320/_MG_6573.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rjctgmP-Oms/UQ_ZhMgCoVI/AAAAAAAAC2I/sZYlohOu84s/s1600/_MG_6573.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7P2M6gjgwA/URACp2ibHrI/AAAAAAAAC4I/ERQ19K14r0g/s320/_MG_6517.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H7P2M6gjgwA/URACp2ibHrI/AAAAAAAAC4I/ERQ19K14r0g/s1600/_MG_6517.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UfaUHf1Do_A/UQ_ZrAzF31I/AAAAAAAAC2g/5_mm41ZNbk4/s320/_MG_4783.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UfaUHf1Do_A/UQ_ZrAzF31I/AAAAAAAAC2g/5_mm41ZNbk4/s1600/_MG_4783.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuBizLdSzxU/UQ_ZhvbQmfI/AAAAAAAAC2M/aNbwH8Vc7GQ/s320/_MG_6509.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FuBizLdSzxU/UQ_ZhvbQmfI/AAAAAAAAC2M/aNbwH8Vc7GQ/s1600/_MG_6509.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IEwD7-W6mU8/UQ_ZBXhgc-I/AAAAAAAAC1A/uwSdAkNnmHs/s200/_MG_4815.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IEwD7-W6mU8/UQ_ZBXhgc-I/AAAAAAAAC1A/uwSdAkNnmHs/s1600/_MG_4815.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zwae5nqSSyQ/UQ_ZDIiZ87I/AAAAAAAAC1I/LOHPr9bZoSE/s200/_MG_4825.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zwae5nqSSyQ/UQ_ZDIiZ87I/AAAAAAAAC1I/LOHPr9bZoSE/s1600/_MG_4825.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bTVoFhm6xo4/UQ_ZoLyMP4I/AAAAAAAAC2Y/BmV7o8ZxBnI/s320/_MG_4740.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bTVoFhm6xo4/UQ_ZoLyMP4I/AAAAAAAAC2Y/BmV7o8ZxBnI/s1600/_MG_4740.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2lyh8yycpa0/UQ_ZLlVxOuI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/JAXQppoy1fk/s320/_MG_4868.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2lyh8yycpa0/UQ_ZLlVxOuI/AAAAAAAAC1Y/JAXQppoy1fk/s1600/_MG_4868.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ga-3vjwHw3M/UQ_ZN-AQMgI/AAAAAAAAC1g/WIpAuN0OZg4/s320/_MG_4879.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ga-3vjwHw3M/UQ_ZN-AQMgI/AAAAAAAAC1g/WIpAuN0OZg4/s1600/_MG_4879.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVA2wAZCQ_M/UQ_ZR3s3KyI/AAAAAAAAC1o/Pt7wMzA5Tcw/s320/_MG_4907.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVA2wAZCQ_M/UQ_ZR3s3KyI/AAAAAAAAC1o/Pt7wMzA5Tcw/s1600/_MG_4907.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V-_8J-J02V4/UQ_ZWnnn78I/AAAAAAAAC1w/7WpheFdTA0o/s320/_MG_5185.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V-_8J-J02V4/UQ_ZWnnn78I/AAAAAAAAC1w/7WpheFdTA0o/s1600/_MG_5185.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-c0ePHmH38/UQ_ZampJzEI/AAAAAAAAC14/Q6_tvE6cXLc/s320/_MG_5352.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-c0ePHmH38/UQ_ZampJzEI/AAAAAAAAC14/Q6_tvE6cXLc/s1600/_MG_5352.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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7 UP (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/02/7-up.html)
26 February 2013, 7:18 pm
I've just had one of my best few days on the grit EVERR! Temps have been super chilled, its been dry and perfect for getting stuff done! Me and my homie Sam have been to check out a few 'esoteric' places and routes that are absolutely brilliant but for whatever reasons, never get done.
The tick-list that we have managed to drum up between us over the last few days goes something like this:
Fat Slapper - E7 6c, third and fourth ascent...?
Speak the Truth - E7 6b
Jumping on a Beetle - E7 6c
Moon Madness - E7 6c
Benign Lives - E7 6c
Velvet Silence - E6 6c
Fat Slapper is a Seb Grieve classic, and a route made famous in the opening minutes of the movie, Hard Grit. When this was first done I would have been about 5 years old! We all randomly got inspired to try this historic line a few months back and finally went to give it a bash, it didn't disappoint! It is honestly one of the finest grit routes I've ever done, steep pulling with big moves on a good set of holds. It went down super smooth after a good scrubbing and we left on a massive high. Cheers Seb!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji3Yj9Qpx3U/USz5RWt_BBI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/AQ0Yf4NLknk/s1600/220px-Hardgrit_DVD_cover.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ji3Yj9Qpx3U/USz5RWt_BBI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/AQ0Yf4NLknk/s1600/220px-Hardgrit_DVD_cover.jpg)
The next day we wandered into a dank and grotty looking quarry... Hardly stunning surroundings but there is a hidden gem here that sticks out from all the crap the minute you walk in. If it was anywhere else I'm sure it would prove to be immensely popular. A razor sharp arete rising up from the brambles and boulders below! Bit of a sketchy landing.... but immaculate climbing nonetheless! Check it in the video.
As the weekend came round we popped to Froggatt. Here Sam floated up the tricky Dawes slab Benign Lives. Rad effort from the lad on this, its all in the feet guys. I definitely wasn't feeling it so we packed up and made the trek across to Moon Buttress at Curbar.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OO7F3lmhqBc/USz_VYcxWXI/AAAAAAAAC8w/CBoBptGJULM/s400/IMAG0890-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OO7F3lmhqBc/USz_VYcxWXI/AAAAAAAAC8w/CBoBptGJULM/s1600/IMAG0890-1.jpg) All or nothing on Benign...
The snow flurries seemed to be getting heavier and oddly falling from clear blue skies???? But conditions were top drawer and as the sun went down I went for it on Moon Madness, everything clicked, hands sticking to the holds like no tomorrow. A surprise tick to finish the day. Will post up a video soon.
I seem to have tapped into something pretty crazy at the moment, knowing I'm 100% confident of being able to execute the route without any problems or fear. Its a great feeling for sure!
Time to step it up a gear...
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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More hard grit... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/03/more-hard-grit.html)
8 March 2013, 6:07 pm
Its been a case of back to reality this week, in terms of the weather anyway, and it doesn't look like its gona change much over the coming days! So I thought I'd take a break from training and sulking over the state of things outside and post up a short blog with some cool pictures from last week.
I made a trip over to Shining Cliff about a week ago, its probably one of the closest crags to my house being about a 15/20min drive. This place has had a bit of attention of late from our friend Tom Randall where he made the long awaited FA of 'My Kai' the direct to Seb Grieves route, Gecko Blaster. Another great lump of solid, slightly overhanging gritstone, on small crimps, sidepulls and gastons with a spicey last move... Awesome effort from Tom on this, a frickin BOLDD solo for sure!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EvVJAr5kJXM/UToKFEV0kQI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/jFKZH9ebWAA/s400/Gecko+Blaster+1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EvVJAr5kJXM/UToKFEV0kQI/AAAAAAAAC-Q/jFKZH9ebWAA/s1600/Gecko+Blaster+1.jpg) Gecko Blaster, E7 6c
We ended up doing a slight hyrbid of the two routes, joining the direct version lower down rather than at the overlap. It felt to be about french 7c this way, and even though I didn't have a try at the boulder problem start it looks pretty tricky and I can see why Tom suggested hard 8a for the linkup! Keen to return sometime soon. Big thanks to Jon Clark again for coming out and getting some more sweet shots!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1mWRFqaqX2Q/UToLn69Sc5I/AAAAAAAAC-Y/fMj_WiAEg-M/s320/GetInline.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1mWRFqaqX2Q/UToLn69Sc5I/AAAAAAAAC-Y/fMj_WiAEg-M/s1600/GetInline.jpg) Sketchy last move, long way above the ground...
Then a few days later it was back up on the edges joined this time by photographer Mike Hutton. We all had a fantastic day out, sunshine and blue skies for everyone. Why can't it be like this all time! Check out what we got up to below. Cheers Mike for the pics, great work! You can see more of his work here: www.mikehuttonphotography.com (http://www.mikehuttonphotography.com/)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RPY_J9GNnE4/UToMjPM91SI/AAAAAAAAC-o/9wLwzDnJxlk/s320/_MG_7613_WEB.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RPY_J9GNnE4/UToMjPM91SI/AAAAAAAAC-o/9wLwzDnJxlk/s1600/_MG_7613_WEB.jpg)Cool Moon, E7 6c
Spanish Fly, E6 6c below
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bCa4XKfA7UY/UToNh3SWf4I/AAAAAAAAC-8/jVEZI-8dp5s/s320/_MG_7673.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bCa4XKfA7UY/UToNh3SWf4I/AAAAAAAAC-8/jVEZI-8dp5s/s1600/_MG_7673.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xARvW3WwTfE/UToNhnoK7VI/AAAAAAAAC-0/Yu1dPxUpSD4/s320/_MG_7639.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xARvW3WwTfE/UToNhnoK7VI/AAAAAAAAC-0/Yu1dPxUpSD4/s1600/_MG_7639.jpg)
I also bagged another couple of funky routes, that hardly get much attention, back up at Black Rocks. One being Tom de Gays 'Small Things' E6 6c. A wild and unusual sort of line to the left of Golden Days. I guess its slightly eliminate... but not by much and who cares anyway. If you are up around that way, I'd recommend you give it a look as its all squeaky clean now! Then it was a quick trip around onto the front face for 'Camel Hot' a rad exposed arete from the 80's. Its crazy to think of the stuff people were doing back then, much respect to those guys!
Cheers for checkin in ya'll, have a good weekend!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNSFKG2uLY8/UToPHc9zkzI/AAAAAAAAC_M/DR-Sop1l-Uo/s320/camhead.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DNSFKG2uLY8/UToPHc9zkzI/AAAAAAAAC_M/DR-Sop1l-Uo/s1600/camhead.jpg)Don't play with cams kidzzz!!!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Cornelius (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/03/cornelius.html)
26 March 2013, 5:20 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9McR_7skNzg/UVHS7Kbnp6I/AAAAAAAAC_o/iDp8Edqik8M/s400/Ethan_Cornelius-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9McR_7skNzg/UVHS7Kbnp6I/AAAAAAAAC_o/iDp8Edqik8M/s1600/Ethan_Cornelius-2.jpg)
Here are a few photos and a short clip of our trip to the Churnet a couple weeks ago. It is such a sweet spot down here and Cornelius in particular is one of the most perfect lines you could wish for. For those of you that don't know about this line, its something that sits somewhere in between a highball boulder and route. Its pretty dam high whatever way you look at it! Originally given E8 6c but now generally thought of as V9, which seems fair. The crag is also situated in what feels like the gardens of Alton Towers!
I do love the Churnet, its very unique with mostly immaculate rock wherever you go. Its certainly a different vibe climbing here and makes for a nice change.
Thanks again to Jon Clark for hanging on a rope all day to get these shots for us. And to Dan for capturing our ascents on video!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7lqNWU8jNvs/UVHSzfnHVgI/AAAAAAAAC_g/l46JigJzOro/s320/Ethan_Cornelius-3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7lqNWU8jNvs/UVHSzfnHVgI/AAAAAAAAC_g/l46JigJzOro/s1600/Ethan_Cornelius-3.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVuuQGZBoQM/UVHS8Ayt34I/AAAAAAAAC_w/N5-kZ_R4G1Y/s320/Ethan_Cornelius-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVuuQGZBoQM/UVHS8Ayt34I/AAAAAAAAC_w/N5-kZ_R4G1Y/s1600/Ethan_Cornelius-1.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0fGTSqIP-PU/UVHWYkoB7NI/AAAAAAAAC_4/gpzJbcjkMzQ/s320/295668_10151358616883595_1802117282_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0fGTSqIP-PU/UVHWYkoB7NI/AAAAAAAAC_4/gpzJbcjkMzQ/s1600/295668_10151358616883595_1802117282_n.jpg)Sam pebble pulling above his nest on 'Inaccessible' E5 6a
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Return of the Jedi (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/04/return-of-jedi.html)
10 April 2013, 10:59 am
Since climbing The Power of the Darkside earlier in the season, I've been super psyched to get back to Bank Quarry and try its bigger and harder sibling, Return of the Jedi.I remember reading about Pearson climbing this a couple years back and being pretty impressed with the line and how cool the climbing looked. At the time it was another world really and I never had any thoughts about ever trying it.
Heres a link to the UKC news story they ran at the time.
www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61066 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61066)
The bottom half of the route and the bulk of the climbing is completely unprotected and features some very WILD moves up the arete. I guess this could just about be classed as a highball... but its definitely getting pretty close to what you might start to consider a route and not just a boulder problem. Once through this though its still not over and after stashing some rotten cracks with slightly suspect gear you have one final tricky move between you and the top. At this point it is 110% NOT a highball!
So with all this in mind I can totally see why it was never given a 'proper' grade and instead the unknown tag of HXS 7a. Whatever that means... Personally I felt the climbing to be somewhere in the region of F7c+/8a as a whole, maybe slightly easier...
Since being first done its had just two? ascents that I know of, from Ryan Pasquill and Dan Varian. They both did the route ground up which required some serious commitment and balls, so massive respect to those guys!
We all decided to check it out on a rope first and see how it was feeling. Ed had persuaded Dave Mason to make the trip over to try as well and he was looking strong and fired up. The crux revolves around a crazy dynamic move to a good flatty and once we had this dialed I knew it was game on. I
stuck this move on the lead but then missed the next tag in move and took the long flight down to the deck, missing the pads and just being caught by Ed! Annoyed but buzzing at the same time that it had been that close! After a breather I went again and this time didn't mess up, stuck the move, feet up and powered to the jug. Total relief!
Big props to Dave sending as well, proving he's not too shabby at climbing with a rope on either! Here is a cool video he put together of the ascent, which includes some big air time!
Putting aside all the talk about how hard it is etc, its just an fantastic line, with some truly great climbing. I really enjoyed the process with this one and again its cool to see the progression and to keep moving forward. Cheers to Ed, Dave and Gracie for all the support!
Thanks for reading
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Snowballtastic (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/04/snowballtastic.html)
29 April 2013, 12:48 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMReGIj2Eoo/UWLkuUmX-uI/AAAAAAAADAY/lsXCxzfqN-I/s400/Picture+161.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JMReGIj2Eoo/UWLkuUmX-uI/AAAAAAAADAY/lsXCxzfqN-I/s1600/Picture+161.png) Messiah, Burbage South | E7 6c
Here's a blog I wrote before we flew out to Germany. Unfortunately we had to cut our trip short but we all still managed to get some really cool routes done and see a bit more of what Franken has to offer. I'll post up a report on what went down when I get chance.
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Well everybody has been having fun in the snow over this last couple weeks and taking advantage of some of the hugeeeeee drifts that have formed under many of the harder routes up on the edges. Meaning some of these routes have finally had a second ascent after goodness knows how long and other lines have seen a constant stream of traffic.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AUfeiR4B0Ik/UWLVDMs05qI/AAAAAAAADAI/DodNCPmGSX8/s320/Shine+On,+E7+6c.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AUfeiR4B0Ik/UWLVDMs05qI/AAAAAAAADAI/DodNCPmGSX8/s1600/Shine+On,+E7+6c.jpg)Big team up at Shine On, Stanage | E7 6c (font7A+)
I kinda missed out on the last round of snowballing, whenever that was, 2010 maybe...? But made sure we got in there while it was still fresh this time. I've managed to get most of the classics done that include, Three Blind Mice, Corrida, Shine On and a flash of Cemetery Waits. It is pretty cool the way that people have been rallying together on all these hard grit lines and its been nice to see so many guys and gals out and sending these old time routes.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IhiF3AUVkJI/UX5oLMIqHOI/AAAAAAAADCk/Usr4cAWFnFo/s320/Three+Blind+Mice.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IhiF3AUVkJI/UX5oLMIqHOI/AAAAAAAADCk/Usr4cAWFnFo/s1600/Three+Blind+Mice.jpg)Three Blind Mice | Burbage South
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eGU5XybGXso/UWLomuMkzcI/AAAAAAAADAg/Wd1akixUs8M/s400/Picture+168.png) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eGU5XybGXso/UWLomuMkzcI/AAAAAAAADAg/Wd1akixUs8M/s1600/Picture+168.png)Samwise riding the stunning fin of Clippity Clop, Ramshaw | E7 6c
Its not been a case of packing the ropes and trad rack away though as we've all been out to take advantage of the dry and sunny conditions that have been left behind in the aftermath of the snow dump.
First up was Sam's ascent of Clippity Clop in some of the most baltic and windy conditions everrrr! Hardly what you need on a precarious arete, but he dispatched it in his usual smooth style although I know he was pretty relieved to grab that top jug. Then Ed and myself both got a quick tick of another perfectly formed arete, this time at Burbage South. I've wanted to do Messiah for a long time and being able to climb it under clear blue skies surrounded by snow made it all the better. Si tres belle!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e2njCrrsNSk/UWMVw6jJrQI/AAAAAAAADAw/m0psnOl1PE8/s320/U+or+Bust.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-e2njCrrsNSk/UWMVw6jJrQI/AAAAAAAADAw/m0psnOl1PE8/s1600/U+or+Bust.jpg)Ulysses or bust, E5 6b
Finally, a few weeks ago I had made a short ticklist of routes I'd really like to get done before we head off to Germany. Right at the top of this list was Simbas Pride, E8 6b. I know I go on and on about all these amazing lines all the time, but this one is special. An incredible over hanging arete with an awesome sequence of moves from start to finish.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsGN_nyjqVI/UX5oE-k1jBI/AAAAAAAADCc/NtoNKj6EjhA/s320/Simbas+Pride.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsGN_nyjqVI/UX5oE-k1jBI/AAAAAAAADCc/NtoNKj6EjhA/s1600/Simbas+Pride.jpg) Simbas Pride
Hitting the top on this with all that space below you and your body thriving off that feeling of being in total control was mind blowing and something hard to explain, but I was stoked out of my head! Dave went next with a very impressive flash and then Pete quickly followed. A brilliant way to finish off the season right before we leave.
Take a look at the video below for some footage from the day!
So now our thoughts turn to and focus in on the Jura! I can't wait to return to this place and we're all immensely looking forward to a month of pocket pulling in the forests. We'll all be blogging out there so be sure to keep checking back for updates on whats going down! Auf Gehts!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Schnitzel, Kuchen and Pockets (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/05/schnitzel-kuchen-and-pockets.html)
9 May 2013, 3:26 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bhSOrJgArlw/UYEItsCnFII/AAAAAAAADDU/f6ayEcUeb7c/s400/BABH,+Ed.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bhSOrJgArlw/UYEItsCnFII/AAAAAAAADDU/f6ayEcUeb7c/s1600/BABH,+Ed.jpg)
So our trip to the Jura was full of its ups and downs and unfortunately we decided to fly back home a couple of weeks early. It seems like the whole of Europe had been hit by a very harsh winter, which we soon realised on our first day over there, with many crags having a large amount of seepage. But its all about learning to deal with these kind of situations and just get on with making the most out of it all.
We spent the majority of our time in the northern parts, revisiting some of the crags we were at last year and checking out some new spots as well. Climbing once again in shorts and t-shirts, nearly everyday felt amazing. Its been a while!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjHG0pQ0ZnA/UYEGDmAGoEI/AAAAAAAADDE/tz0kYwKYZ1M/s320/King+Lui,+Ed.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rjHG0pQ0ZnA/UYEGDmAGoEI/AAAAAAAADDE/tz0kYwKYZ1M/s1600/King+Lui,+Ed.jpg) King Lui at Diebsloch | 7c
I really do love the style of climbing over here, it suits me pretty well and I'm constantly fascinated by the vast amounts of crags dotted amongst the hills and around the forests. The countryside is incredible and sometimes you'll be lucky to bump into anybody all day.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3jSCx_X4PG8/UYKtga0DiZI/AAAAAAAADDk/25XiSUYFQxY/s400/Nullkommanix,+8a+.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3jSCx_X4PG8/UYKtga0DiZI/AAAAAAAADDk/25XiSUYFQxY/s1600/Nullkommanix,+8a+.JPG) Last day send of Nullkommanix, 8a+
The trip didn't exactly get off to the best start as I woke up the morning after our first session with a screwed up finger. I was so annoyed with myself and my motivation quickly slipped away. After a few days rest it seemed it be healing and by the following weekend it felt good enough to pull on again. I took advantage and dispatched one of my favourite routes of the trip, 'Primeur de Leux' a very popular 8a+ at the small roadside crag of Kuhkirchner Wand. This set me up for a brilliant next few days and during this time I really started to feel strong and felt my body fully adjusting to the toll, pressures and joy of sport climbing again.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DSU_lq1dSTY/UX_aPn-XdGI/AAAAAAAADC0/HAmQR6JOXDk/s400/Primeur+de+Leux,+8a+.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DSU_lq1dSTY/UX_aPn-XdGI/AAAAAAAADC0/HAmQR6JOXDk/s1600/Primeur+de+Leux,+8a+.JPG)Primeur de Leux
I'm sure we'll be back here soon! There are so many routes we all wanted to try on this trip but in the end you gotta take what you're given and move on. It ain't going no where! Enjoy the photos. I'll post up some more when I get chance.(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QOd9vYr6ADA/UYuvtzRY8BI/AAAAAAAADEo/VEzKIBkkzaQ/s320/P1000817.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QOd9vYr6ADA/UYuvtzRY8BI/AAAAAAAADEo/VEzKIBkkzaQ/s1600/P1000817.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5RulsJR67-o/UYu0_XGuu3I/AAAAAAAADFE/u2pIWnQmLMU/s320/DSC_0026.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5RulsJR67-o/UYu0_XGuu3I/AAAAAAAADFE/u2pIWnQmLMU/s1600/DSC_0026.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4LhaD4qKHKo/UYuy40uM39I/AAAAAAAADE0/K4Sm2FeyUBg/s320/IMAG0961.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4LhaD4qKHKo/UYuy40uM39I/AAAAAAAADE0/K4Sm2FeyUBg/s1600/IMAG0961.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z6SXApuhYRY/UYu5M86svWI/AAAAAAAADFU/reCHQgGn3Iw/s320/IMAG0963-1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z6SXApuhYRY/UYu5M86svWI/AAAAAAAADFU/reCHQgGn3Iw/s1600/IMAG0963-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-047aqlGZV4c/UYu8t9vUdGI/AAAAAAAADFk/TKLByZlEX68/s320/P1000827.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-047aqlGZV4c/UYu8t9vUdGI/AAAAAAAADFk/TKLByZlEX68/s1600/P1000827.JPG)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Progression (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/05/progression.html)
13 May 2013, 11:06 am
Since getting back home it has been so good to finally have a settled period of weather with a decent amount of sunshine and good conditions. If you could guarantee something like this every year in the UK I would quite happily stick around and not chase off around Europe as much.
Sport climbing season is now here and in a big way. The crags have been drying fast, even the Cornices! I always find it weird how it only takes one session back on the lime or even the grit for that matter, to suddenly get you instantly hooked again and forget about everything else.
There is no doubt about it that our Jura trip has set us up perfectly for the season and I've been reaping the benefits of this and all the training throughout the winter, over the last couple weeks. I love to see progression and there is nothing better than to see all the hard work begin to pay off.
Heres a short list of the stuff that's been going down in the two weeks since getting back.
Kneedless - 8b+
Zeke the Freak - 8b
Sworn Enemy - 8a
Caviar - 8a+
The Sissy - 8a
The Free Monster - 8a
O'Leanna the Butler Dunn It! - 8a?
River of Life - V11
The day after we flew back into Manchester I got a tick I've dreamed of for quite a while. Zeke at Rubicon. We arrived early, it was cold, perfect for sticking to those holds and I was fired up! We warmed up, put the clips in, got all the moves dialed, had a brief rest and it was done. Such a crazy feeling clipping the lower off on this route. It had felt straight forward all the way, solid on every move.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9sIoZFelzg/UYubS17Uz7I/AAAAAAAADEA/431sIoKFyYc/s400/River+of+Life,+V11.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9sIoZFelzg/UYubS17Uz7I/AAAAAAAADEA/431sIoKFyYc/s1600/River+of+Life,+V11.jpg)
River of Life
A few days later another one fell, but not without a bit of a fight first. This time it was down at the sleepy hidden crag of Turning Stone. A small grit outcrop not far from our house. I've been going down here all winter and each time its been soaked so when we found out it was dry I was over there in a flash. Amongst the rhodedendrums lays one of the best roof problems on grit, if not the best! River of Life.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5fK9HmoZNFk/UYuaRHW2JXI/AAAAAAAADD0/0o1VTGBuNFc/s400/DSC09410.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5fK9HmoZNFk/UYuaRHW2JXI/AAAAAAAADD0/0o1VTGBuNFc/s1600/DSC09410.JPG)
This bloc began to mess with my head at one point and started to become quite a mental battle along with butchering my fingers like never before. But it succumbed in the end and I found the whole process to be a great learning curve. Its been said before but you really do have to stick with these things sometimes and basically in the end, just try harder.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YVDncivcDrY/UYudLr8F4FI/AAAAAAAADEM/m_-BLkCWi3M/s320/IMG_20130501_161241.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YVDncivcDrY/UYudLr8F4FI/AAAAAAAADEM/m_-BLkCWi3M/s1600/IMG_20130501_161241.jpg)No excuses.Then last Monday I was able to do another route that I've craved after for a long time! Jon Clarks masterpiece 'Sworn Enemy' over in Dovedale. Its probably the best 8a in the Peak and one of the best in the UK... True Euro style climbing through a magnificent limestone arch. Big thanks to JC for having the vision and investing the time into putting up such an awesome line.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHe9tUdICu8/UYud2576r4I/AAAAAAAADEU/z5vGWX25dYs/s400/IMG_20130508_225008.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHe9tUdICu8/UYud2576r4I/AAAAAAAADEU/z5vGWX25dYs/s1600/IMG_20130508_225008.jpg)
Since writing the above I've had a crazy weekend! Even though the rain returned and tried to dampen the mood at times, the crags held out firm. An 8b+ linkup at the Tor and two 8a's on Saturday and yesterday I fought my way up the crimpy piano playing number, The Sissy back at Rubicon. It poured it down for most of the afternoon, but we had fun and that is what matters most!
My psyche is extremely high right now and I'm constantly amazed at just how much stuff there is to do in the Peak and the UK in general. I'm very much looking forward to sticking around for a while and seeing where we can go with things. Lots of projects, the tick-list of stuff that we want to get on grows daily!
Peace out and thanks for checking in.
E
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Yorkshire Trip Trippin (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/06/yorkshire-trip-trippin.html)
12 June 2013, 4:33 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MOAuCcqeNls/UbicydNWEeI/AAAAAAAADG4/njvMO0MMwFE/s320/IMG_20130603_110514.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MOAuCcqeNls/UbicydNWEeI/AAAAAAAADG4/njvMO0MMwFE/s1600/IMG_20130603_110514.jpg)
Last week we headed up to Yorkshire for a few days, camping at the brilliant little campsite at the mouth of Gordale. I've not been to Malham in about 2 years so I was mega keen to get back there and change things up a bit. It turned out to be one of the best weeks camping we've ever had. The weather was incredible! Waking up to clear blue skies and bright sunshine every morning gets you really psyched and sets you up good for the day ahead. Nothing is worse than hearing the rain hammering down on your tent as you wake up!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azM7SMnG_GE/UbiluVlcjqI/AAAAAAAADHs/jNjjqjk9la0/s400/DSC09480.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-azM7SMnG_GE/UbiluVlcjqI/AAAAAAAADHs/jNjjqjk9la0/s1600/DSC09480.JPG) Waking up to this every morning!
I wanted to try and get to as many crags as possible and seek out some of the classics I've never done. So first up was Raindogs at Malham, a must do and probably the most popular and sort after 8a in the UK? Definitely in Yorkshire anyway. We were at the crag for about 8.00am, in a bid to beat the heat, which was building by the minute, and the dreaded midges!
It was a bit of a race as the sun was moving around fast and our window was small but fortunately it went down without too much trouble and it was time to bail and find some shade!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9dzcyOexlQ/UbigPLrTiXI/AAAAAAAADHg/V5L1ko39Tq8/s320/IMG_20130605_112332.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x9dzcyOexlQ/UbigPLrTiXI/AAAAAAAADHg/V5L1ko39Tq8/s1600/IMG_20130605_112332.jpg)
It may surprise some people but I've only ever been to Kilnsey once, about 3/4 years ago for a very brief visit. It is incredibly impressive and I'm still amazed at its length and size. We spent an afternoon here ticking our way through a few of the classic lines including , Comedy, Pantomime and Tragedy. Then it was back to chill in Gordale and eat a tonne of food ready for more the next day.
I'd heard a lot about Giggleswick and one of its sectors in particular caught my eye flicking through the guidebook. The Hollywood Bowl. Its a very unusual sort of crag for the UK, and something you'd more expect to find on the continent somewhere. Its dripping in tufa's of all shapes and sizes. Big, fat, thin it seems to have them all. While its nothing compared to places like The Loup it made a huge changed from boning down on rat crimps. Along with this and the warm breeze you could easily lose yourself for a second and think you were chillin' at some crag in the South of France.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nlUYNIOusbo/Ubhpu76jxXI/AAAAAAAADGo/b3WpygOYfbs/s320/DSC094866.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nlUYNIOusbo/Ubhpu76jxXI/AAAAAAAADGo/b3WpygOYfbs/s1600/DSC094866.jpg) The Hollywood Bowl
There are a lot of hard routes here with many a FA from Steve Dunning and recently Jordan Buys, that tackle the tufa on the lower walls and then launch through the big roof above. Kleptomania stood out to me, as I'm sure it does to many. An extremely short route that is more like an extended boulder problem up a perfectly formed thin tufa. Apparently some kind of knee bar makes this easier....? I found it to be pretty dam tough and clipping the belay felt like the absolute living end! Anyone who jumps to the chain on this is a douchebag!
I'd love to come back to this awesome crag soon to get on more of the routes here. There is a hella lot to do!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_M5xxX2CDs/Ubic9z5prjI/AAAAAAAADHA/mDhmBjVgbWU/s320/IMG_20130606_110802.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p_M5xxX2CDs/Ubic9z5prjI/AAAAAAAADHA/mDhmBjVgbWU/s1600/IMG_20130606_110802.jpg) Tufa heaven!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K20so2S1cLU/UbimUPy8XoI/AAAAAAAADH0/g1pIbP2x0no/s320/DSC09504.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K20so2S1cLU/UbimUPy8XoI/AAAAAAAADH0/g1pIbP2x0no/s1600/DSC09504.JPG)
After this I decided to go search out the famous G-Spot sector. Home to probably one of the hardest routes in the world. John Gaskins unrepeated 9a+ Violent New Breed. While I'd already decided to save this one for laters the line to the right, Militia, is a popular 8a+ and after wandering around searching for the crag, which is probably the smallest crag I've ever been to, we eventually stumbled upon it. As soon as I saw it I was syked immediately and quickly set to work brushing the holds and figuring out a sequence. From a distance it looks super short, which in reality it is, but then you realise it starts way down in the cave at the bottom and actually packs quite a few moves in. It suited my style perfectly. Steep, small edges, big moves and even some sneaky toe hooks that unlocked the starting moves. A slight change of foot beta through the crux proved the difference and I was yarding my way to the top on my 3rd try. It must be one of the few sport crags around that you can actually top out on. I'd highly recommend this rig to anyone, go check it out. It is class!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vdr-DU-jfO8/UbieymQi5OI/AAAAAAAADHQ/lSr9VVQqxPo/s320/IMG_20130606_152046.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Vdr-DU-jfO8/UbieymQi5OI/AAAAAAAADHQ/lSr9VVQqxPo/s1600/IMG_20130606_152046.jpg) Post send Creme Egg
It was a perfect finish to a brilliant few days of hanging out with my Dad, chillin in the sun and getting a bunch of cool ticks. Looking forward to heading back up very soon!
Peace
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The Big One (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-big-one.html)
26 June 2013, 8:28 pm
Where to start. Its been another crazy few weeks since my last update. The summer weather we've all been wanting has continued, crags are drying out again and sending conditions have been in abundance.
The Cornice in Chee Dale sounds as if it is approaching something of the state we all enjoyed over that famous summer a couple of years ago... However I've been biding my time a little before venturing back down here, mainly down to the fact I've had other projects on the go.
Yesterday marked a big step forward in my climbing and a major dream realised that I've had for as long as I can remember. Mecca at Raven Tor is probably one of the most famous routes in the country and lusted after by many. My Dad can remember it as an old aid route back in the day and the majority of UK climbers will know of its history.
I've had a fair few friends over the years take down this short, power endurance test piece and I even gave it a try myself a year or two ago but the madding crowd waiting in the blocks behind me, rearing for there turn, always put me off and I decided to leave it.
My psyche returned for it though a few weeks ago after knocking out an ascent of the long 8b Waddage, amongst a few other endurance fests. While its hard to compare the two routes, as one is pure endurance with no totally desperate hard move and the other a short bouldery rig, it suddenly dawned on me that I might actually have the fitness required to have a good go at Mecca. So about a week ago I decided to jump on and see how it felt. The moves came back to me fairly quickly and after various beta from folk I had done the main big 'pocket link'. I was buzzing as all that was required now was to add around 4/5 extra moves and it could be game on... So I went away stoked on the rapid progress and spent the next few days barely being able to contain my excitement for the next session.
One thing about this route is that it can destroy your skin, particular the left hand so I took a few days rest and waited for the temps to cool down. Saturday came around and I ventured back, hoping the extra couple days rest had done me some good. Conditions felt prime when we arrived at around 8.30am and there was a good breeze. I was fairly confident of being in with a chance of pushing on through to the top, using my new found fitness and ability to recover, if I could just get established in the base of the groove. I tied in, pulled through the start fine, set myself up for the crux and before I knew what was happening, found myself at the top of the groove. However the fatigue quickly set in as I attempted to free myself from the tangle of knee bars and egyptians and I peeled off into space.
But I was on the home straight. This was it, the feeling we all know when we suddenly realise something is within our grasp. Four redpoints later and I had gradually increased my highpoint inch by inch, with my last try proving to be the closest yet. A simple foot pop prevented me from reaching the final hold you use to rock over into the finishing flake. Gutted but psyched out of my head at the same time I decided to call it a day and I'd take a couple days off to fully recover and grow some much needed skin!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xm9fghYk5R4/UcrnP8dt0PI/AAAAAAAADIM/p-BIbJscQJ8/s320/DSC08860.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xm9fghYk5R4/UcrnP8dt0PI/AAAAAAAADIM/p-BIbJscQJ8/s1600/DSC08860.JPG)
Driving over early yesterday morning I felt a mix of excitement and nerves clashing together but I was fully confident in myself and knew that in theory it should all be a formality... I met up with the crew and after a good warm up I fancied giving it a try. The bottom moves felt totally solid, skin felt good flicking between the crimps then all of a sudden POP and my right foot slid off. That certainly wasn't in the script to happen, at all. It did throw me for a split second and I felt a tiny sliver of doubt suddenly creep its way into the back of my mind. But back on the ground I tried to focus in, put it down to a false start and keep my eye firmly on the task in hand. After a brief rest I was back up there in the same position but my foot popped again! Only this time I crimped up hard, readjusted and fired up to the horn. Clip, clip, shake, undercut, crimp, drop knee, crimp and I was back at my highpoint, the last hold staring in my face. This time I made sure my foot was solid, tensed my core, boned down on the crimp like no tomorrow and it was there. I stabbed my feet over, reached into the flake and clipped the belay.
A lifetime dream, a route I've looked up at and wondered about since I first visted the Tor as a kid, was complete and it felt dam good! But now I'm hungrier than ever for more and we'll be back out in the next few days and onto the next project. That's how the wagon rolls, and how we progress!
Thanks a lot for reading and checking in folks. Have fun out there!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zQYf7VbcGh0/Ucrp8xXTmCI/AAAAAAAADIk/nhc0_KoeLdA/s400/DSC08867.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zQYf7VbcGh0/Ucrp8xXTmCI/AAAAAAAADIk/nhc0_KoeLdA/s1600/DSC08867.JPG)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Karma Killin' (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/07/karma-killin.html)
3 July 2013, 12:19 pm
There is a route down in Water Cum Jolly that waited over 10 years for a second ascent. Karma Killer was first put up in 1997 by Tony Coutts and given 8b. Although I'm lead to believe it has been tried by a fair few since, it was Jon Clark that grabbed the long awaited repeat of this neglected 90's testpiece a couple of years ago.
"A chequered history. It's the route that mentally broke Tony Coutts (he gave up climbing having done it & emigrated to Australia) & physically broke Steve Fearne & Robin Barker (that mono)."
Andy Harris
It has been on my ever growing 'wishlist' for some time and I finally went to give it a serious look sometime back in May but then it got wet so my attention turned to other things. I like the way Rupert described one of the holds to me when I was quizzed him for beta, calling it a "cornflake". You couldn't describe this tiny undercut better. It's thin, small, and as if someone has got creative with a box of Kellogs and tube of sika. This is what the crux revolves around, oh and a one pad mono thrown in there too. It is a pretty unique rig and wouldn't look too out of place buried in the forests of the Frankenjura.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OVFbzOtz66k/UdQFgFUNfLI/AAAAAAAADJE/uxFF6OIR5pE/s640/Ethan_Karma_Killer.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OVFbzOtz66k/UdQFgFUNfLI/AAAAAAAADJE/uxFF6OIR5pE/s1600/Ethan_Karma_Killer.jpg) Jura pulling dream!© Jon Clark
I was incredibly pleased and slightly bewildered to get this done early Saturday morning and make the 4th? ascent... It's firmly up there with one of my favourite ticks without a doubt and I'd highly recommend it. Just make sure those tendons are fully warmed up first ya'll!!!
The day after I was keen to look at another route on this wall, Agent Provocatuer, a fierce 8a+ to the right of Karma. The photo below of Jon on the head wall of this always put me off... So I was pleased to find out from someone that Ryan Pasquill had found some new way for these final moves. Basically a huge span... With some heel/toe trickery and a final big dyno to a glory jug. An absolutely brilliant move if you like that sort of thing. The skin felt shredded and bruised so we left to go home, but it was all dialed up for the next time.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PRuLYf54uAI/UdQB70wEYwI/AAAAAAAADI0/DMcwYbTLXLs/s400/Jon,+Agent,+8a+.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PRuLYf54uAI/UdQB70wEYwI/AAAAAAAADI0/DMcwYbTLXLs/s800/Jon,+Agent,+8a+.jpg) © Pete Clark
Yesterday, fully rested and with nice fresh skin on the tips I went back with the young and keen George Carmichael and JC in tow and pulled my way to the belay. The start is technical, and tenuous on the feet but not too bad and you'd have to say it beats routes like The Inch Test and Caviar for quality... Get to it people, its clean, chalked and waiting!
Jon has been following us around over the last week collecting some cool looking footage of various routes and he managed to get yesterdays send on camera too, so keep an eye out for that. I'll post it up as soon as he's finished doing his thing with it!
Cheers
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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I've had a fair few friends over the years take down this short, power endurance test piece and I even gave it a try myself a year or two ago but the madding crowd waiting in the blocks behind me, rearing for there turn, always put me off and I decided to leave it.
Not to be a pedant, but I'm pretty sure you were on Mecca quite a bit last year. Good effort all around though yoof!
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A Muerte! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/07/a-muerte.html)
19 July 2013, 7:45 pm
Chee Dale is where its at right now. Even more so if you want to escape the infernal heat that has appeared out of nowhere and is now providing those endless summer days many of us had forgotten about or even knew were possible this side of the channel!
I signed off my Tor season a couple weeks back with a tick of Revelations, 8b and I'm quite content now to leave the place till the autumn arrives and with it the cold temps needed to climb well down there.
I had two main routes in mind down at the Chee Dale cornice at the start of the season. One I had tried the last time it was dry 2/3 years ago, Kristian's big roof masterpiece Gran Techo (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/big-roof.html), 8b and an uber bouldery 8a+, Devonshire Arms.
With all the hot weather they both quickly came into condition and I was really fired up to get stuck into climbing here again. That summer of 2010 seemed a long time ago and its just fantastic to see the whole scene reappearing, see everyone syked and have everything dry once more.
After reacquainting myself with Gran Techo (which literally means 'big/great roof' in Spanish) it went down fairly quickly, and I had brief thoughts of trying Bob Hickish's harder direct finish, Techno Prisoners which he gave 8b+. I remember him doing this a couple of years ago and it was just something on another planet to me at the time and never imagined trying it. I knew I had the roof dialled up well so started to wonder how hard it'd be to carry on for a few extra moves, even though I'd heard rumours of a HUGE span on the head wall.
Before that though I had a date with Devonshire. Nige had given us all the beta for this very short lived and burly product of the 90's, a couple days previous and I almost sent the morning after climbing Techo! But it wasn't to be so we came back on what turned out to be one of the hottest days of the year, hardly ideal at all for this route... Much to my relief I made it through the powerful sequence of undercuts, chalking way more than usual to keep the grime and sweat at bay and suddenly the chain was staring me in the face and it was laid to rest.
I think a lot of people are put off by this one after hearing how hard it is and how it should really be 8b. Maybe it should... I don't know, but it isn't as bad as its made out, you just have to be prepared to pull a bit harder! So get to it and ENJOYYYY!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bfR_V2G9uUM/UemRjod6kUI/AAAAAAAADJY/CjINfW_eotQ/s640/Gran_Techo.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bfR_V2G9uUM/UemRjod6kUI/AAAAAAAADJY/CjINfW_eotQ/s1600/Gran_Techo.jpg) Gran Techo | Screenshot from an upcoming video short...
I've had to try enormously hard on routes many a time, but yesterdays efforts on Techno Prisoners seem to eclipse previous endeavours. It literally felt like the fight of my life! I could have dropped every move after the crux so easily, spat into the waiting void behind me. Maybe the next try would have gone better, if I had blown it, and quite often I prefer to climb something with the feeling of being in total cruise control on every move. But to have tried so hard and succeed makes it all the more sweeter.
Most sport routes pass us by and we generally forget what it all felt like to get to the top. I've read a lot lately from folk about how it is the 'process' that we all crave and enjoy, rather than the eventual send. With this, yes I enjoyed the whole process immensely but I equally enjoyed, if not more so, the actual feeling of redpoint success. It was a close one, and an experience I won't be forgetting in a hurry.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Gran Techo video edit: (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/08/gran-techo-video-edit.html)
19 August 2013, 2:28 pm
If you've not seen this already then I'm pretty stoked to be able to share another cool video edit from Jon Clark. Featuring my ascent of Gran Techo down the Chee Dale Cornice last month. He's done up another slick looking job on this and I hope it gets people keen to go check it out next year.
It's a massive shame the whole crag is now totally soaked, we really did have a hella lot of rain in such a short space of time a few weeks back. But it was great while it lasted and at least we still have plenty of dry rock to keep us going! Time is flying by, its literally insane how fast it goes. I don't know if its the same for everyone but I really struggle sometimes to get my head around it. Just where has the summer gone??? Anyway here it is!
I had a awesome time in Wales last week with the Mammut team, climbing on The Orme for the first time, testing out a bunch of shiny new gear that's due out next year (there is some seriously snazzy stuff on its way) and consuming a large amount of extremely good cake. I'll get round to writing up something for that later but big thanks to the guys at head office for sorting it all out and to the Plas y Brenin staff for putting up with us all!
Currently on a rest day and gearing up for a mini adventure tomorrow... Buzzing for something a little different!
Hope you guys enjoy the video, I'm off to cook up a tasty chicken casserole!
Cheers
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Excellente!! :strongbench: What a shame its all out of commission :???:
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Wales, new places, new people and cake! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/08/wales-new-places-new-people-and-cake.html)
23 August 2013, 3:40 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ovuSXksq5c0/Uhd5K4-jwVI/AAAAAAAADKQ/021YrKyXJjA/s640/IMAG1059-1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ovuSXksq5c0/Uhd5K4-jwVI/AAAAAAAADKQ/021YrKyXJjA/s1600/IMAG1059-1.jpg)
The last few weeks have all been a bit of a whirlwind for me. They seem to have passed by so quickly its hard to believe it'll be September next week! I am psyched for the coming season and a return to the brown stuff but it'd be nice to just hang onto the long summer days all the chillin in shorts and t-shirts and clipping those bolts for just a little longer.
I mentioned in the last post about our trip over to Wales just over a week ago to hook up with the Mammut team and a bunch of shop reps from all over the country. The idea was to get everyone together to learn about and test some of next years range of hardware and basically squeeze as much climbing in as possible!
I'd not been to Wales in probably over 5 years and never even set foot on the Orme! So I was obviously pretty excited to check it out and hopefully get some time to climb there. We managed a session in the cave of power, Parisella's, a place I've wanted to get to for a long time! I thought Stoney was badly polished but this place takes it to a different level.... Still, it has some mind boggling problems and linkups and I can finally say that I've been. Rock Attrocity got done quickly on our first day and we'll be eager to return in the future for more.
There is so much to do in North Wales and I can see that next year I'm going to have to make a tonne more trips over. On the way back to The Brenin one evening I persuaded the guys to make a quick stop at Jerry's Roof in the Pass. Extremely glad we did as it lived up to everything I'd heard and a nice way to finish the day. Then it was back to base for tea and cake!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fB-bVMhHqBE/Uhd0YBvU8vI/AAAAAAAADJ4/_8xMsHOmosM/s400/DSC_0304.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fB-bVMhHqBE/Uhd0YBvU8vI/AAAAAAAADJ4/_8xMsHOmosM/s1600/DSC_0304.jpg) Jerry's Roof, V9 | Llanberis Pass© Ollie Berkin(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zi7T3BfBGXk/Uhd3dPikLJI/AAAAAAAADKE/-cVecA3uhZo/s320/DSC_0339.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zi7T3BfBGXk/Uhd3dPikLJI/AAAAAAAADKE/-cVecA3uhZo/s1600/DSC_0339.jpg) © Ollie Berkin
We also fancied taking a look at Pigeons Cave which has seen a massive amount attention of late and on the last day we got the chance to head down. Its a stunning venue, in a sweet little cove right next to the ocean with a really different style of rock. Unfortunately it was all soggy and wet but we were too syked to care and while we left Nathan to go wading through the incoming tide in search of a boulder, both Cailean and myself got in on the action with an ascent of Stiff Upper Lip. A real smash and grab job!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-myY4VQCnPBk/Uhd5_mXZI8I/AAAAAAAADKY/PPx26JXuyv0/s320/1167610_10153116717880635_1971955941_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-myY4VQCnPBk/Uhd5_mXZI8I/AAAAAAAADKY/PPx26JXuyv0/s1600/1167610_10153116717880635_1971955941_o.jpg) The impressive and super steep Pigeons Cave
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4Ra9U4Z20Q/Uhd7eICpwzI/AAAAAAAADKk/UKXgGx74t8I/s320/SAM_9181.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_4Ra9U4Z20Q/Uhd7eICpwzI/AAAAAAAADKk/UKXgGx74t8I/s1600/SAM_9181.JPG)Livin' it large on Pill Box wall....
The trip definitely opened my eyes some more as to how much Wales has to offer. Very refreshing to be at totally new crags and in a breathtaking part of the country. And we didn't even managed to make it down to one of the best spots, LPT! Something that we need to sort out for next year its just another place where there is soooo much to go at.
Thanks again to Mammut for putting together a fun week for us all, looking forward to the next one!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AjiDY3UvmFM/Uhd9gSJl1oI/AAAAAAAADKw/_qJQGT7d8xk/s320/DSC_0560.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AjiDY3UvmFM/Uhd9gSJl1oI/AAAAAAAADKw/_qJQGT7d8xk/s1600/DSC_0560.jpg) Swiss style gear demo© Ollie Berkin
In news a little closer to home I've been spending a lot of my time down at Two Tier, ticking our way through the classics, stuff I've never really got round to checking out before. I think one week I spent about 5 days here! Pretty keen yes and I'm sure some of you will laugh, but with so much to do and not knowing when the weather might take a turn for the worse I decided to get stuck in.
Conditions down here have been top drawer and its been the place to go since the cornice died the death and for those not quite wanting to sulk back to the Tor just yet.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqK8XjCwPVQ/UhTxV-1KznI/AAAAAAAADJo/Ah4iVLAsMj4/s400/Ethan_Gonads.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqK8XjCwPVQ/UhTxV-1KznI/AAAAAAAADJo/Ah4iVLAsMj4/s1600/Ethan_Gonads.jpg) The Simon Nadin classic 'Gonads' 8a+
Secteur Nadin is brilliant with a whole bunch of those classic limestone routes that should be high on peoples lists. Abberation, Celebration, Minos and Gonads are all quality and it was great fun working our way along the crag. For some reason Gonads was another one that always put me off and could never get massively inspired for it. When it reality it ain't all that bad with some funky moves from start to finish and has a slightly different feel to it than other routes in the dale of a similar grade. Its all about mixing things up with your climbing and keeping things fresh and as long as you're motivated and having fun, its all plain sailing.
Have a good bank holiday guyz
Ethan
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7bP_l7w51F0/UheA1TkRG_I/AAAAAAAADK8/CGnLyRkZVBs/s400/DSC_0219(2).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7bP_l7w51F0/UheA1TkRG_I/AAAAAAAADK8/CGnLyRkZVBs/s1600/DSC_0219(2).jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Gotta light? (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/09/gotta-light.html)
6 September 2013, 4:12 pm
Around three weeks ago I suddenly remembered a route that I'd talked about trying in the past but never got to the point where I felt fully keen to go check out. It was partly due to the fact it is situated half way up one of the biggest crags in Derbyshire, rumoured to be 8b with a desperate move and since being climbed 6 years ago it hadn't had a second ascent...
I don't know what it was that got me psyched but all of sudden I said, right I really want to head up to try Limelight and see what its all about. So I called up the first ascentionist, Jon Clark, who was equally psyched to head up there with me and excited to finally see someone on his route.
The last time I climbed on High Tor was around 6 or 7 years ago, still a youth doing my GCSE's. I felt super excited to be climbing somewhere new, and the thought of pulling hard moves high up off the deck with all that exposure behind you made my palms sweat!
The route isn't actually all that long, tackling the big roof immediately to the left of the famous E5, Castellan. It had been a project of Malc Taylors back in 1992, but one move shut him down and he never got to complete the line, and said it could potentially be 8c!! In 2007 JC made the first ascent (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=41009) and not really knowing how hard it felt he gave it a grade somewhere roughly between 8a+ and 8b...
It is one of those lines where I'm sure it'd feel much easier for someone 6ft odd with a huge ape index, as the crux involves one desperate span off a deep undercut pocket to get around the bulging roof before a sustained but steady headwall. But for anyone else its a biggie!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LFm4Czya9ng/UioFbSRWtbI/AAAAAAAADL4/DRgRM21_CQY/s400/limelight+jon.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LFm4Czya9ng/UioFbSRWtbI/AAAAAAAADL4/DRgRM21_CQY/s1600/limelight+jon.jpg) Jon throwing the crux on the FA
So I gave it a good clean and worked out what needed to be done before the holes in my hands (and left arm!) meant I'd have to come back another day. Which we did a few days later but after a bunch more tries and refining beta for the move it shut me down again. However I'd made a big link through the crux to the top which gave my confidence a massive boost as I was beginning to wonder if it was even going to physically possible for me. All that needed to be done was to add the four starting moves and it'd be done...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G2Wg6Zb1-YM/UinyPTtFD4I/AAAAAAAADLM/Cfv5H8C825k/s640/Limelight1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G2Wg6Zb1-YM/UinyPTtFD4I/AAAAAAAADLM/Cfv5H8C825k/s1600/Limelight1.jpg)
The next session started off well with all the moves feeling steady on the warm up burn, but then as soon as I'd try from the floor the span move would just spit me off. I got a little frustrated with myself as Jon and Pete had put the time in to come up and support me and it didn't look like it'd be going down that day. Then suddenly I changed the way I was holding the undercut ever so slightly and straight away made the move and thankfully managed to keep it together on the easier post crux moves all the way up to the belay. Relief!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ixad2jqZh2Y/UinyTfdacAI/AAAAAAAADLU/sS-XiduXQaY/s400/Limelight2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ixad2jqZh2Y/UinyTfdacAI/AAAAAAAADLU/sS-XiduXQaY/s1600/Limelight2.jpg) Crux span!
Thanks go out again to Team Clark for coming out with me on this one, I really appreciate the time they put in to get me up it! We got some awesome video footage that so keep an eye out for that being released sometime soon. I hope it inspires people to head up there to try the line as it is really unique and in an amazing position above the valley.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKlIg_J_R-U/Uin9NkPIOII/AAAAAAAADLk/rmyDnp1C_Jw/s400/IMG_20130820_182314.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKlIg_J_R-U/Uin9NkPIOII/AAAAAAAADLk/rmyDnp1C_Jw/s1600/IMG_20130820_182314.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The road to 8c (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/10/the-road-to-8c.html)
19 October 2013, 7:07 pm
Since the last post, just over a month ago, I have been focusing all of my energy on one particular project, Steve Mcclure's Mecca Extension. Since climbing Mecca back in June I had the idea to maybe take a look at the upper section, but at the time it was still something I felt was way way above and beyond anything I'd ever be able to manage.
Mecca Extension:
The full version is an incredible stamina test which packs an 8a+ on top of the already desperate 8b+. There is a rest at the Mecca flake and a breather higher up before the upper crux.
I've belayed friends on this in the past and would often try to put myself in their shoes and state of mind as they set off up Mecca on each redpoint. How does it feel knowing you have to repeat an iconic 8b+ before you can even think of carrying on up the technical wall above? And how do you deal with the obvious mental pressure weighing you down. It was just something I could not get my head around at all.
I've watched many people attempt it, all extremely talented and fully capable climbers, each cruising on up the bottom section only to drop it from the last few moves countless times. How do you prepare yourself for something like this? All these questions kept going through my mind over the summer.
People would keep asking me if I was thinking of maybe trying it come the autumn and as the summer months went on and I was able to tick off a bunch of hard routes I got more and more psyched to check it out, once it was cool enough for the Tor season to kick back in again.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRlWOFejdr0/UmFqUKkrkrI/AAAAAAAADMU/PS_g_N71qxc/s400/156729.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iRlWOFejdr0/UmFqUKkrkrI/AAAAAAAADMU/PS_g_N71qxc/s1600/156729.jpg) Jon Clark high up on the Extension back in 2010©Robbie Shone
So once September hit I found myself back at the crag and took an opportunity to pull up to the head wall and take a look at the moves, see how it felt and more importantly how I felt about getting stuck in and giving it some proper efforts.
The first time up I just thought I wasn't physically tall enough to make any of the moves and felt as if I needed to be strung out on a medieval stretch rack to give me the height and reach to shift my body between the marginal holds. However I quickly found out I could just about do all the individual moves and all that was needed was for my body to adjust to the different positions and let muscle memory do the rest! It is the same with anything that is at your limit, as we've all experienced at some point during our climbing lives. Things that feel impossible suddenly become possible etc etc. It is hard to fathom how this bizarre phenomenon works, but man does it work.
The route really is a game of two halves. With the bouldery and powerful bottom section giving way to a nice big rest on a chunky flake. Once you've shook the latic acid out of your aching forearms (and pumped some blood back into your lifeless fingers) you launch into some sustained, technical and extremely delicate face climbing, on gastons, sidepulls and crimpy blades. Holds that take absolute delight at eating into the skin of your fingertips. It's safe to say its all pretty intense and complex up there. Sounds lovely right?
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lBiCS260cg/UmFqUZF2iII/AAAAAAAADMg/vssKJ9XrAhw/s400/156728.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6lBiCS260cg/UmFqUZF2iII/AAAAAAAADMg/vssKJ9XrAhw/s1600/156728.jpg)©Robbie Shone
That first session finished and I was totally hooked. It had gotten my full attention and I was super excited to get back again. Each session got better and better and I quickly started to make some big links on the top half. I knew what was coming next. If I was serious about giving this some proper burns I needed to jump back on Mecca and start to remind myself of what to do. So I tied in and set off and completely surprised myself by repeating it at the first time of asking. I was chuffed to bits and decided to carry on to see how far I could get. I shook the arms out, feeling pretty boxed and tried to put myself into the mind set of what it would take to recover here and then have enough left in the tank to climb the second half. I eventually ended up screaming my way to within around 8 moves from the finish! This opened my eyes massively and turned the whole thing and idea of climbing this route into something that was actually possible.
I still hadn't managed to link the top half yet, from the Mecca belay to the finish but I'd gotten so far up the top wall on my attempt from the ground that I imagined it would just get easier and easier. Which it did, but at the same time I admit I got slightly carried away with myself and very quickly realised that the need to make that link was pretty critical, just for my own confidence if nothing else.
Eventually I found that I could do the link with a fair amount of ease and made sure that it was incorporated into my warm up every time. Those small little edges for your feet still had the tendency to scare the life out of me every now and then. I like how Ted describes them as "timebomb smears". It really paints an accurate mental picture of just how on-off it is up there. However, even those in the end started to feel good and my confidence grew and grew with each attempt. I found myself getting higher and higher, inch by inch and each session I left feeling more motivated for the next one.
Mecca felt easier and easier each time, to the point where I was barely out of breath at the belay, but then my arms would suddenly die on me on the final few tense moves. I blew it from the last couple of moves about 4/5 times, taking some big falls in the process.
Neil Mawson was at the crag for one of these attempts and we talked after about the stresses that go along with hard redpointing and that when you fail on a particular move that many times, you should start to re-access and think about changing up your sequence. So I did just that. All it took was the changing of one foothold at the top and the whole sequence felt 110% better. I knew that this new beta was without a doubt going to mean the difference between getting to the top and falling countless more times at the same hurdle.
Thursday morning I set the alarm for 7am and picked on old climbing friend up from the station. The weather seemed perfect and I knew it'd be prime conditions. I also knew that Ben Moon, who had also been trying the route with me, had managed to get the it done a couple days before, so it was going to be dry!
My first attempt went like toss, dropping a move that normally goes fairly smooth. My fingers were numb, I couldn't get the blood back into them and I fell feeling pretty disappointed in myself.
I took an hours rest and began to get nervous as the sun slowly began to accelerate around onto the face, knowing from past experience it'd soon be way too hot for another attempt. However maybe climbing in the sun today would be a bonus and at the very least my fingers would have to be warmer?
I set off for another burn and sure enough arrived at the belay with much warmer digits and feeling a million times better all around. I kept it together all the way up to my highpoint, heard the shouts of encouragement from friends on the ground, telling me to just breathe and relax. I took a breath, placed my left boot on the new found foothold, pulled on up into the final two gastons and cranked on through to the jug! It was shear joy, a crazy mix of emotions and like a total dream. The battle was over. It was won.
The mental pressure of climbing something like this, and something at your personal limit is crazy and if you're not careful it can blow you away and seriously start to effect your performance. I tried to limit myself to two big efforts a session to keep this pressure at bay and maintain motivation and it seemed to work. I did my best to maintain focus and concentrated on enjoying every moment of it all, and not get sucked into the ticking pressure cooker that I've witnessed others get dragged into.
The whole process from start to finish was an incredible journey, I learnt many things and I can honestly say it was the best experience of my climbing life.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Effort!
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Chillin, relaxin and the GRIT is back... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/11/chillin-relaxin-and-grit-is-back.html)
1 November 2013, 4:28 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hy9ZbG_QCwQ/UnPRTgFqm7I/AAAAAAAADN0/eUfvNYn7AZw/s640/Ethan_MeccaExt3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hy9ZbG_QCwQ/UnPRTgFqm7I/AAAAAAAADN0/eUfvNYn7AZw/s1600/Ethan_MeccaExt3.jpg)
It has been so nice these past two weeks to be able to relax a little, chill with friends and have none of the pressures of redpointing weighing on my mind, as well as indulge in some incredible tasting bread! I absolutely love being in project mode and cannot wait to get back in that vein of thought next season but its great when you can just head to the crag stress free and not have to worry about the weather, conditions, skin and queues etc etc. I've spent my time checking out next years project, this one is significantly harder and definitely a big step up from the Extension, but I've made massive inroads within just two short sessions and it has fully fired me up to get training over the winter.
Take a look at the cool pics below I had sent through from JC of a quick shoot we did on Mecca Extension a few days ago.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tGnfMxYsgwY/UnPMTO_janI/AAAAAAAADNU/WY7x4eYDMHo/s400/Ethan_MeccaExt2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tGnfMxYsgwY/UnPMTO_janI/AAAAAAAADNU/WY7x4eYDMHo/s1600/Ethan_MeccaExt2.jpg) ©Jon Clark
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mcuqbfnlrDw/UnPSToalNuI/AAAAAAAADN8/hDYq0iqBWq8/s400/Ethan_MeccaExt1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mcuqbfnlrDw/UnPSToalNuI/AAAAAAAADN8/hDYq0iqBWq8/s1600/Ethan_MeccaExt1.jpg) ©Jon Clark
I am also immensely psyched for the grit and while it might not be fully here just yet it is getting there and yesterday saw us kick off the season with a bang. Our good friend Andre was up visiting from London, keen as mustard to get stuck into some sketchy trad! We all headed over to Shining Cliff with Ed and Dave both wanting to get Gecko Blaster done. Sam had already took down this slightly scary solo the previous weekend and I'd first managed it back in February. However there was still the second ascent of the direct start up for grabs... Something Tom Randall had put up last winter which he had given E8 6c. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67790
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iV07tXZzcKk/UnPHUFwSfGI/AAAAAAAADM4/JlOTw4TVpew/s320/64254_10151682035327407_311190232_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iV07tXZzcKk/UnPHUFwSfGI/AAAAAAAADM4/JlOTw4TVpew/s1600/64254_10151682035327407_311190232_n.jpg)Andre committing to the final tricky move on his send of Gecko Blaster, E7 6c©Ed Hamer
Ed went first on Gecko and smoothly climbed to the top, Dave got the flash and then Andre suddenly decided to go for it and also managed to get it done. Top effort from those lads.
After completing spotting duties I pulled on the boots, eager to try the tricky boulder problem that guards the direct start. I had tried it briefly before, and found it to be awkward, not too pleasant and abit of a skin trasher... My fingertips felt good though, toughened from 3 days off and the sharp crimpers felt perfect from the moment of pulling on. Within seconds I found myself on the top wall committing to the final sketchy pull to the good edges and then it was all over.
It is a quality bit of wall, always dry and sheltered from the wind, super solid rock throughout. It is definitely not your average grit route however, and climbs kind of like a sport route would. Think crimps, gastons and powerful undercutting. With something like this it is incredibly hard to commit to a grade. Overall I felt the difficulty of 'My Kai' be somewhere between french 7c/7c+, maybe a tad harder, I don't know. Basically, go try it and see for yourself!
Good skills from Tom making the FA of this old project! You can check out his blog with his own thoughts on the route here (http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/2013/01/30/gritstone-new-routing-my-kai/).
I've caught the grit bug again in a massive way and cannot wait to see what this winter brings. It is currently hammering it down with rain outside, lets hope those cold and crisp mornings that we all love so much, are not far around the corner... Hope you all have a good weekend!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o18Tr69sFH4/UnPHcE27GZI/AAAAAAAADNA/eKcAgStmrQo/s320/1453490_10151682625717407_1075235143_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o18Tr69sFH4/UnPHcE27GZI/AAAAAAAADNA/eKcAgStmrQo/s1600/1453490_10151682625717407_1075235143_n.jpg)Tea and cake to finish off a successful day back amongst it on on the grit!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The earth goddess and a moment of madness (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/11/the-earth-goddess-and-moment-of-madness.html)
19 November 2013, 8:16 pm
“Higher you go, closer to the morgue you are”
There are some routes, particularly on gritstone, that have legendary status and a special aura about them. The very name of some of these routes is enough to send shivers down your spine and the thought of ever being on the sharp end is incomprehensible.
Two of the arguably most famous of these so called routes can be found at Black Rocks. Johnny Dawes 80's masterpiece Gaia, and Seb Grieves ground breaking line, Meshuga.
Gaia stands proud on the west face, the line so pure and distinguishable running straight up one of the best blocks of grit around. Your eyes are instantly drawn to it the minute you come up the hill.
Meshuga however lurks around on the dark side, barely seeing the light of day, guarded by the permanent shade that the front face of this classic crag casts. It is quite possibly one of the most intimidating lines you'll ever see. They are both iconic and are firmly cemented at the top of British climbing history.
Both these routes shot to fame and became 'immortalised' in the film Hard Grit back in the 90's. I'm sure we can all relate to how it felt watching this movie for the first time. The horrifying sound of Jean-Minh Trin-Thieu smashing into the lower arete as he loses all control on Gaia, and then the classic running commentary as Seb attempts to calm the nerves on his ascent of Meshuga.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1HPFUTloaIs/UopmxzJPIxI/AAAAAAAADOg/OUrjBuo5Q58/s1600/hardgrit.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1HPFUTloaIs/UopmxzJPIxI/AAAAAAAADOg/OUrjBuo5Q58/s1600/hardgrit.jpg) Seb Grieves featured on the cover of HARD GRIT, making the First Ascent of Meshuga©SlackjawFilms
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c0ueTxBWAo/UopJMH26ubI/AAAAAAAADOQ/w7p13dHTMAg/s400/hg_meshuga.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--c0ueTxBWAo/UopJMH26ubI/AAAAAAAADOQ/w7p13dHTMAg/s1600/hg_meshuga.jpg)Black Rocks is my home crag and where I first went climbing around 18 years ago. Gaia in particular is a route that I have always, for as long as I can remember, looked up at and dreamed of one day being able to climb. Virtually everybody within the climbing world has heard of this testpiece and it is a much sort after tick. I have to admit though, it would always scare the living daylights out of me, and I never imagined I was good enough to do it, let alone have the right mindset something like this requires.
So it sort of got put on the back burner. Friends came along and did it and yet I still couldn't find the psyche needed to get stuck in. This season though my attitude towards these hard routes changed, to the point where I could not wait for the temperature to drop and grit season fully kick in. Thankfully it finally did a couple weeks ago and I felt more fired up for the coming season than I had been in a long while. Maybe it was due to knowing how much stronger I've been feeling from a summer of sport climbing, as well as realising I had a half decent amount of fitness in me.
It has been a truly incredible start to the grit season already. Probably up there with one of the best anyone has ever heard of, and its only mid November! E9's and E8's have been falling down and tamed left, right and center. It has been pretty inspiring reading daily reports of peoples successes, and it does beg the question, what in the world has happened!?! I have my own thoughts but will leave them for now.
About a week ago I took an opportunity to hit up Black Rocks and throw a rope down Gaia. It was unbelievably hot and sweaty with zero wind. We waited until the sun dropped a little lower and almost instantly things started to feel a million times better, and I managed to link the thing in one go. Time was starting to get the better of us though so we packed up and decided to leave it till later in the week.
Wednesday came around and I'd arranged to meet up with Jon and Pete. There was a frost, the sun was out and it looked like being a perfect winters day. However I'd woken up with a grim cold, and sore throat but decided to head out anyway and see what happened. The moves felt fine, my sequenced was fully drilled into my mind, I knew what needed to be done and was 100% certain I'd be able to execute. It was hotting up a little though but luckily just as I was about to set off a cloud bank came over that made your fingers grip to the crystals of grit like glue.
Clipping the gear I pulled onto the face and set up for the crux pull into the groove. It all went like clockwork, suddenly I was above the cams, this was it, now or never. I padded my way to the top of the groove and delicately reached out left to the sloping shelf, making sure to keep my mind from wandering astray and firmly on the prize. The next few tricky foot swaps went well until I was all set up for the final lunge. I chalked up, took a quick breath, ran my feet up the wall, kicked my toe out right and locked on up to the bomb proof arete hold with a massive sign of relief and unexplainable joy. A big big moment for me and my climbing career.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKQsp5_98tE/UouyF3zwvRI/AAAAAAAADOw/rbc1Lr6O-B0/s320/photo(29).JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kKQsp5_98tE/UouyF3zwvRI/AAAAAAAADOw/rbc1Lr6O-B0/s1600/photo(29).JPG)
The sense of relief and satisfaction it gave straddling that top arete is hard to describe and a moment I've often found myself trying to imagine how it would feel. It is so different to the feeling of clipping the belay of a hard sport climb. Probably because you've come out of an extremely dangerous situation and certain ground fall, alive and well!
I'd had this idea a few days before of being able to climb both Gaia and Meshuga in the same day. The Americans did it a few years ago and it'd be a pretty cool achievement. In order to do so it was paramount I made sure all images of Jean-Minh and Mawson smashing into the ground were well out of my head.
I was already half way there and already knew what to do on Meshuga from taking a look a couple weeks previous. Both Pete and Jon were keen so we packed up and headed around onto the front face. Conditions were minted, the rock was bone dry and I ended up top roping it at the first time of asking. It was more than possible. The route is totally my style all the way, with its compression slapping and big moves. I did it a few more times, gave the holds a good scrubbing and firmly went over the sequence in the my mind again. For some bizarre reason I still wasn't sure about it though. But I started to get prepared to go for the lead. I tied in, pulled on my shoes, and tightened up the helmet. I stood at the base of the route, hands chalked and placed on the starting holds. Then all of a sudden my state of mind seemed to change and various thoughts started to emerge. Climbing Gaia seemed like a lifetime ago and I didn't want to go for this one just for the sole purpose of being able to say I'd done both in a day. I knew I'd regret walking away, but I also equally knew I'd regret it even more if I screwed things up and got hurt. But the conditions were mind blowing, that perfect velcro like grip had arrived and everything was prepped!
I took the decision to back down and promised to come back the day after. I wasn't prepared to risk, at any price, ruining the feeling of such a special day by getting greedy and potentially messing up.
Here is what can happen with a route like this...
The next day my mind felt renewed and back in the game. The sun was out again but the wind was raging like a bull! Hardly ideal on something as serious as this, when a moment lapse in concentration could mean you shattering your bones on the boulders below... After warming up on the route again I took a walk around into the sunshine and sat and ate a chocolate flapjack I'd been saving as a celebration treat. My body felt like it needed a little comfort! All that was bothering me was the distraction of the wind. But then I just suddenly decided to go for it and before I had chance to changed my mind, ran back round to tie in.
Everything went as planned, no hickups, although I admit to feeling a little more nervous than I usually do! Within seconds I was at the break and the welcome sight of a solid 0.5 cam. It was a strange feeling topping out on this one. Without the wind, I'm positive it would have made the whole experience so much more enjoyable but it didn't matter anymore. A route that even in my wildest dreams I'd never imagine being able to do, was suddenly done, over in a matter of seconds. Standing in the light of the setting sun, on top of the crag, just made it all the more special. I was left to reflect and gather my thoughts on what had truly been a whirlwind couple of days.
Massive thanks go out to team Clark yet again, for all their support and patience standing in the cold for me. I am very grateful. Enjoy the videos and pics!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Getting into The Zone (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/12/getting-into-zone_6.html)
6 December 2013, 3:19 pm
It is hard to know where to start with this one as it seems so much has happened in such a short space of time. For that reason I'll try to break up the latest news into a couple of posts and hope ya'll don't get too bored!Cold days and top conditions in abundance have continued to arrive each week, which has allowed us to get out there and work our way steadily through the grit hit list. I've gotten into the habbit this last couple of years of writing out a list of routes to try over the approaching season. Some are dreamy, some maybe more realistic but I just find it not only maintains motivation, working through a list, it also means there are no days spent wasted trying to decide what you want to climb. All you do is check your list and pick one that takes your fancy. Simple.
I had hoped to try The Zone last winter but in the end time ran out and the winter was over, so this year it was one of the routes at the forefront of my mind. I knew that after a summer of crimping and climbing things much much harder it would in theory feel okay, as long as my head was in the right place and I swatted up on my skyhook knowledge...
I also wanted to do something where you actually had to pull a bit harder, and not just keep it together on another 'steady plod' above a big scary run out.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Z8usDA47dY/UqDVZpcRhOI/AAAAAAAADPA/jgi4jCsph4Y/s1600/john.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Z8usDA47dY/UqDVZpcRhOI/AAAAAAAADPA/jgi4jCsph4Y/s1600/john.jpg)
The route was first climbed back in 1998 by the legend that is John Arran. What this guy hasn't done is not really worth knowing about. He was one of a small collection of guys who were at the front of the gritstone revival back in the 90's, with numerous hard and bold ascents up and down the edges. To put into perspective just how good this guy was, one of these routes was 'Dr Dolittle' at Curbar. Thought it be somewhere in the region of E10 7a, it remains unrepeated to this day.
Just over a week ago I got a brief opportunity to jump on The Zone and check out the climbing. It is one of those routes that you look up at and all you see is just a blank canvas of rock. No matter how hard you gaze upwards it still appears to be virtually holdless. Only when you get up close and personal with it, you begin to see that actually there are holds there and the majority are fairly good. Flat, positive edges.
Anyway the sun was baking, people were walking around in t-shirts and the smaller holds felt disgustingly hot and sweaty. I understood now why it needed to be really cold for this route. Regardless of this I still figured out I could do all the moves and it was obvious that in crisp cold conditions everything would feel so much better.
The protection for the route to most would seem farcical and an utter joke. Carefully placed pieces of metal hooked over small edges, situated at just over halfway up the almost featureless wall. In the past I too thought this was completely bizarre and that you'd have to be a mad as a hatter to put your faith in something that seemed so 'marginal'. However they had been tested, most recently by Oli Grounsell (http://oligrounsell.me/2013/03/15/the-zone-e9-6c/) last winter, and rumored to be as solid as a bolt...
I managed to borrow a collection of skyhooks and all I needed now was the right day to come along so I could head back up to try again. Tuesday arrived, it was cold, freezing in fact and I had manage to persuade Jon and Pete to meet me at the crag mid morning. I arrived with no real intention of going for the lead but knew in the back of my mind that it could potentially be something worth considering if everything went according to plan. I just treated it like any other climbing day I've had recently, with the attitude of not caring too much and just having fun out with friends.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1k4G9lYrmQQ/UqDtzwu-beI/AAAAAAAADPQ/1CCraCNG8OU/s400/The_Zone_Gear.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1k4G9lYrmQQ/UqDtzwu-beI/AAAAAAAADPQ/1CCraCNG8OU/s1600/The_Zone_Gear.jpg) The Collection, weighted down with a couple of heavy bags.
After jumping around for about 30 odd minutes and trying to force the hotaches I jumped on and eventually the blood very slowly started to make its way to my frozen fingertips. I could at least now feel the holds! The sequence quickly came together, the crux holds felt like different holds to the ones I'd been pulling on in the heat a few days previous. The crux was linked, it felt solid, my mind started to contemplate the lead, but ideally I really wanted to link it all in one go which I managed fairly smoothly after a brief rest. This was it then really, it was possible and all I needed to worry about now, beside the suspect protection, was whether I could keep my fingers from numbing up...
Most of my ascents of late have followed a similar pattern. Once I know something is doable and tying into the sharp end is inevitable, I've gone through a certain mini routine. This generally involves, checking out the gear, fetching my skinny rope from the car, cleaning my boots and all the while trying not to focus too much on fully commiting yourself to the line until the last second, right before pulling onto the first holds.
It was really interesting to read what Katy Whittaker (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68537) had to say recently about her ascent of Knockin' on Heavens Door. How she slowly talked herself into it by taking small steps towards tying in for the lead "just in case" she fancied giving it a try. It is a brilliant tactic that works incredibly well to calm any nerves, take away the pressure and just keep things nice and casual for as long as possible.
The nest of skyhooks actually seemed to be quite decent and one in particular looked as bomber as a nut placement, which did wonders for my confidence. I managed to fiddle 4 of them over two reasonable sized edges. Surely together they would hold a fall...? They obviously had before but so had the Parthian Shot flake and look what happened there... (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3828)
.
I was confident however they would not need to be tested so the helmet went on, the boots tied up and off I set. Smoothly arriving at the gear, I clipped in the rope and quickly blew on my hands to give them a boost. The next bit went fine, and still going strong I took the little left handed pinch. By this point it must have been too much for my little fingers to bear as they seemed to instantly numb up, the last drops of blood squeezed out leaving them verging on lifeless. I could almost feel myself falling backwards in slow motion. It was either jump off here or give it an almighty lunge and risk falling off anyway. I took the latter option and thankfully made it to the good holds and easier climbing. SAFE.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VSIrkQfLNys/UqDx0OQH5bI/AAAAAAAADPk/02zdZS6GlCs/s640/The+Zone+%7C+E9+6C.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VSIrkQfLNys/UqDx0OQH5bI/AAAAAAAADPk/02zdZS6GlCs/s1600/The+Zone+%7C+E9+6C.jpg) The moment of truth...©Jon Clark
Another huge relief and such a privilege to climb. It is hard to comment on the grade and I have a limited amount of experience in these things. French grade wise, 7c/+ ish seems fair, definitely no harder. I will say though that in no way should the route be taken at all lightly but if the gear is solid and you could absolutely guarantee it holding, then in some ways it climbs like a pretty bold, slightly sketchy but brilliant, sport route... Maybe that's taking things too far. Just try to keep in mind what happened with the shipwreck flake and Will Stanhope.
Check back soon for a short video of the day as JC was again on hand to capture all the action and I'd just like to thank Pete once more for his encouragement and patient belaying. Cheers!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ir4MqJxm-q4/UqDuwILtXKI/AAAAAAAADPY/FIGzqdg82rQ/s320/20131203_145035.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ir4MqJxm-q4/UqDuwILtXKI/AAAAAAAADPY/FIGzqdg82rQ/s1600/20131203_145035.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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...Happy Christmas! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/12/happy-christmas.html)
17 December 2013, 7:30 pm
For this post I thought just uploading a few photos from our recent days out would be best. I do love to read about peoples ascents and thoughts but I equally love sometimes to just browse through pictures. Enjoy!
I should have some cool video to share with you all soon too, so keep an eye out for that!
Thanks to everyone that checks in and reads my blog. I really do appreciate it and all of your support really means a lot. I hope you all have a Merry Christmas!! :) ????
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O6jAZ11mTv8/UqG3uu2JX1I/AAAAAAAADP0/vP4iKztmq5w/s640/Ethan_Unfamiliar.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O6jAZ11mTv8/UqG3uu2JX1I/AAAAAAAADP0/vP4iKztmq5w/s1600/Ethan_Unfamiliar.jpg)Unfamiliar | E7/8 6c, Font7C©JonClark
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a7GJEZpecZY/UqG33YB-wZI/AAAAAAAADQQ/m7Rf65FYFVI/s400/EndoftheAffair%252C+E8.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a7GJEZpecZY/UqG33YB-wZI/AAAAAAAADQQ/m7Rf65FYFVI/s1600/EndoftheAffair%252C+E8.jpg)The End of the Affair | E8 6b©MikeHutton
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3bEWVnAsHV4/UqobmEQECNI/AAAAAAAADQw/nQ79qAWIsLo/s640/clippity.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3bEWVnAsHV4/UqobmEQECNI/AAAAAAAADQw/nQ79qAWIsLo/s1600/clippity.jpg)Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop, Clippity Clop | E7 6c©GuyVanGruning
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6J6jMOnaonU/UqG30Nuej8I/AAAAAAAADQE/D3Lt3ohWakY/s400/Dave+on+Unfamiliar.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6J6jMOnaonU/UqG30Nuej8I/AAAAAAAADQE/D3Lt3ohWakY/s1600/Dave+on+Unfamiliar.jpg) Dave bearing down on Unfamiliar©JonClark
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YLNYVJMKKVM/Uq9m7j7Q0XI/AAAAAAAADRE/BbIEPf3nRhg/s640/Balance+it+is.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YLNYVJMKKVM/Uq9m7j7Q0XI/AAAAAAAADRE/BbIEPf3nRhg/s1600/Balance+it+is.jpg)A green and slimey Balance it is... | Burbage South
©NadirKhan
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EV8qb0hcoHU/UrCJrc37QXI/AAAAAAAADRU/WOohJ_YU3KE/s640/Ed+%257C+Electric+Storm.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EV8qb0hcoHU/UrCJrc37QXI/AAAAAAAADRU/WOohJ_YU3KE/s1600/Ed+%257C+Electric+Storm.jpg)Electric Slime...
©NadirKhan
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7g9PnaGB13k/UqG69SEbJyI/AAAAAAAADQg/roSep5Elm98/s640/StanageSunset.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7g9PnaGB13k/UqG69SEbJyI/AAAAAAAADQg/roSep5Elm98/s1600/StanageSunset.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Looking back at 13' (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2013/12/looking-back-at-13.html)
31 December 2013, 8:23 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fRsXu_8DSUo/UsHReB9L9GI/AAAAAAAADR4/9FpwkildlMQ/s640/Ethan_Karma_Killer.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fRsXu_8DSUo/UsHReB9L9GI/AAAAAAAADR4/9FpwkildlMQ/s1600/Ethan_Karma_Killer.jpg)
It barely seems like 5 minutes since the start of the year. 12 months have disappeared in a flash and we are once again on the verge of a New Year. Looking back, so much has happened over this time it is hard to comprehend. I thought I'd just upload a brief recap with a few of my favourite images before the partying starts...
I'm sure of writing something similar towards the end of 2012 but this year has been a huge one for me and my climbing. Last year was brilliant, and another big step up in terms of climbing, but 2013 has blown it out of the water.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQT0GZuxcmg/UsMikRqwlYI/AAAAAAAADTU/PnsiMiBWX14/s400/Three+Blind+Mice.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wQT0GZuxcmg/UsMikRqwlYI/AAAAAAAADTU/PnsiMiBWX14/s1600/Three+Blind+Mice.jpg)Taking advantage of some of the late season snowfall, in APRIL!©MikeHutton
For the last few years I've spent a fair amount of the time traveling and climbing abroad. It is crazy fun spending endless weeks at a sun kissed European crag, without a care in the world, other than your current project. This year however I made a decision to stay at home and climb local, with the hope that we might just get a decent summer. However we did make one brief trip back out the Frankenjura in April. Myself and Ted had a brilliant time out there last year and this time our aim was to stay for longer. In the end it was hardly the best of times and we found ourselves back home rather early, but we still got some great routes done and it was a good learning curve.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N3GgiyXE1f4/UsHMiHOKuDI/AAAAAAAADRk/yF13aYdrsvU/s400/Nullkommanix,+8a++Frankenjura.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N3GgiyXE1f4/UsHMiHOKuDI/AAAAAAAADRk/yF13aYdrsvU/s1600/Nullkommanix,+8a++Frankenjura.JPG)©EdHamer
Back on home soil it was time to get stuck into the sport season for real. The weather came good and stayed good for most of the summer months. Crags dried out, even the Chee Dale Cornice again, and lots of stuff got done by everyone. I love it down the Dale, there are so many routes to go at and all under the shade of the trees and right next to the cool river. Perfect.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vo9WixLsif8/UsMkc5noZjI/AAAAAAAADTg/iKXBDvUqd04/s640/GuyVan.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vo9WixLsif8/UsMkc5noZjI/AAAAAAAADTg/iKXBDvUqd04/s1600/GuyVan.jpg)
©GuyVanGruning
It would be impossible to go through all of my favourite routes of the season but a couple stick out to me in particular. Routes that marked a significant step forward in my climbing and routes that I really had to fight for. One of these has to be Mecca. It was a major major milestone for me and made all the winters training and hard work in the gym worthwhile. Not only was it my first of the grade it is also a route of huge historical significance and one I had been looking up at since a young lad, when I could not even begin to possibly imagine ever being able to it.
Once this was done it was time to escape the heat and head into the depths of Chee Dale. The Cornice is a classic crag with a tonne of classic routes. I had missed climbing down here and it was dam good to be back! Some stand out routes from our trips here include the old school line of 'Devonshire Arms' and the new school testpiece 'Techno Prisoners'. I had also forgotten how good it was a few years ago to head to this crag on rest days and do a bunch of the easier routes the place has to offer.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rTqUsJPdq8Y/UsHTbU-f95I/AAAAAAAADSA/YT59ydxFDRo/s640/Gran_Techo.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rTqUsJPdq8Y/UsHTbU-f95I/AAAAAAAADSA/YT59ydxFDRo/s1600/Gran_Techo.jpg) One of the best new routes in the Dale. Gran Techo | 8b
©JonClark
I also had a couple of brilliant short trips with my Dad to both Yorkshire and Wales. We spent an awesome week camping at Gordale and climbing at the local crags. Malham especially is such a cool place and I always look forward to climbing there. We also got to check out Giggleswick for the first time, and spent a couple of sessions here, away from the crowds and heat. The weather was perfect, climbing early in the morning to beat the sun, relaxing on the campsite and enjoying being somewhere different.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E2eoF1tMYyQ/UsHVqxiPGUI/AAAAAAAADSY/Fb7yVBNjSD8/s640/Jerrys.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-E2eoF1tMYyQ/UsHVqxiPGUI/AAAAAAAADSY/Fb7yVBNjSD8/s1600/Jerrys.jpg)Jerry's Roof, V9 | Llanberis Pass
©OliBerkin
By the time the autumn arrived and temperatures started to cool off it was time to think of the main project that I had been mulling over for most of the summer. This was of course the extension to Mecca and I could barely wait to get stuck into something really hard, test myself and put everything I had learned over the last few months into practice.
It took a fair few sessions but eventually it went down. My first 8c. I loved every moment of the whole process, even the days when things didn't go entirely to plan. In some ways I was sad to see it all end, but it was another huge personal moment for me and one I won't forget in a hurry! Thanks again to all the support I received from everyone and to my Dad for the hours he put in belaying.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XCC_cupXcUg/UsHcde6bajI/AAAAAAAADTE/K3OoGHUg_9I/s640/Ethan_MeccaExt1neww.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XCC_cupXcUg/UsHcde6bajI/AAAAAAAADTE/K3OoGHUg_9I/s1600/Ethan_MeccaExt1neww.jpg)©JonClark
The grit season has been going amazingly well and as its all still fresh in the memory I won't go on about it, but again there have been some stand out moments over the last month or so and more major milestones reached. Lets just hope that the season continues at its current rate and the New Year brings more good conditions and top days out on the brown stone!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t_ItRJ4mhQs/UsMlnXQcItI/AAAAAAAADTo/R5MC55qbvdg/s640/RamshawSunset.png) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t_ItRJ4mhQs/UsMlnXQcItI/AAAAAAAADTo/R5MC55qbvdg/s1600/RamshawSunset.png)
Happy New year to you all and thanks for ya'll continuing to check in. I'd also just like to thank all my sponsors, Mammut, 5.10, NakdWholefoods, ProBalm and GUEnergyUK for their continued support. They are all a terrific bunch and I am super grateful and to be working with them all.
Cheers
E
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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F-BO14 (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/01/f-bo14.html)
16 January 2014, 6:53 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zXrURviqUGQ/UtgpNAZ-DWI/AAAAAAAADT4/i208hJ0YcA4/s1600/379678_570463276360561_930796941_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zXrURviqUGQ/UtgpNAZ-DWI/AAAAAAAADT4/i208hJ0YcA4/s1600/379678_570463276360561_930796941_n.jpg)The Event:On Saturday 8th February 2014 we will be holding F-BO14, The Foundry Bouldering Open. This will be a BIG one day comp with a CASH prize list of £1700 plus other super spot prizes from our sponsors. The Chief Setters will be Rob Napier and Percy Bishton with Mr Graeme Alderson as Chief Judge. (For those old enough to remember, Graeme was the man behind FIBO at The Foundry back in the 90?s).The Sponsors:Mammut (http://www.mammut.ch/)Moon Climbing (http://www.moonclimbing.com/)Bleaustone / Lapis / Axis (http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/)The Clinic (http://919clinic.co.uk/)CragX Climbing Shop (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/)Steepedge (http://steepedge.com/)The Format:A ‘score yourself’ qualification round with 25 problems starting from font4+. Very similar to our normal bouldering league comps. Set so there will be plenty of problems in the font 5 to 6 range (equivalent to our level 1 and 2 problems in our circuits) so everyone can have a good climb in the qualification round.
The top 6 men and women go through to an onsight final of 4 problems each which will be set on the wave/Bleasutone walls.
The comp has Senior (18 or over on 8/2/14) and Junior age categories (age 10 years (chnaged from 12) to under 18 years on 8/2/14) as well as a Team event. It is open to any climber who is at least 10 years old on the 8th Feb 2014. However, please note there will be no special junior problems set but again there will be plenty you should be able to have a good go at.
Team entry – In the qualification round any 3 people can make up a team on the day of the event, just let us know on the day that you want to be part of a team. You do need to be entered as an individual first, there is no extra cost to then be part of a team. Teams must contain at least one female climber. Being in a team means you have a chance of winning more prizes!
Each competitor will receive an F-BO14 competition vest or T-shirt (for juniors) provided you pre enter on-line.
SPOT Prizes – There will be lots of prizes up for grabs by any climber during the qualification between 9.30am and 2.30pm.
Individual Prizes (Senior M&F):1st: £350
2nd: £175
3rd: £100
4th: £60
5th: £40
6th: £20
For more info check out: www.foundryclimbing.com/fbo14 (http://www.foundryclimbing.com/fbo14)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The Competition Game (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/02/the-competition-game.html)
17 February 2014, 4:00 pm
Most people won't know me as a competition climber. For me it is all about climbing outdoors and I see indoor climbing purely as a way to train and occasionally a way of having fun messing around with a bunch of mates (especially on those rainy days). However it may surprise a few to learn that 'back in the day' I did used to do a fair few comps around the country. These were mainly lead events with the odd bouldering one thrown into the mix every now and then. I was never very good, but I made finals on a few occasions and used to enjoy the scene.
In more recent years however comps for me have gone off the radar, bar taking part in the odd one here and there. The last one I did was Rocfest last year and while it was good fun it also cemented the fact of why I'm not a huge fan. Queuing and massive crowds! It can be/is a nightmare. Constantly dodging bodies, all vying to try problems that are getting more and more filthy by the minute with sweat and chalk.
However after hearing about the FB0-14 and that Mammut were going to be one of its main sponsors I figured it would be good to show some support and it could actually be a fun day out. Plus the weather was guaranteed to be nothing special. The general theme of rain and more rain seems endless just now and it is hard to keep motivated.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nL2wrcp7Ok0/UwIr7zI-ATI/AAAAAAAADXE/k28iEBeHt8M/s1600/FBO14-4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nL2wrcp7Ok0/UwIr7zI-ATI/AAAAAAAADXE/k28iEBeHt8M/s1600/FBO14-4.jpg) Morning qualifiers on The Wave ©MickRyan
In the end it was a brilliant day out, the qualifiers went pretty good and I thought all the problems were really well thought out and made good use of the limited space available. I made it through to finals in 4th place and was psyched to see what the route setters had conjured up for us all to battle it out on!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-I1vDK6RuE/UwIsNQyrWyI/AAAAAAAADXc/b3gpFIiTqtg/s1600/FBO14-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-I1vDK6RuE/UwIsNQyrWyI/AAAAAAAADXc/b3gpFIiTqtg/s1600/FBO14-1.jpg) Problem 3 in the Final©PaulBennett
The final seem to go incredibly well for me, I felt fresh, focused and in the end totally surprised myself and somehow managed to eventually finish the event in 2nd place. Narrowly missing out on the win by one tiny attempt! A silly foot mistake on bloc 4 ended up ultimately costing me!
A range of emotions hit me afterwards. I was obviously super pleased and stoked to have completely exceeded all my expectations of the day, but at the same time I felt pretty gutted to have come sooo agonisingly close to sealing the win, yet one slip up had let me down.
It was a great experience though and in hindsight it is all too easy to say 'if only this' and 'if only that' but in the end I'm just very pleased to have competed, had fun and come away with a fresh outlook on competitions.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zX_xWjSxarU/UwIsJsJ13oI/AAAAAAAADXU/RV2iYUHgqzU/s1600/FBO14-2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zX_xWjSxarU/UwIsJsJ13oI/AAAAAAAADXU/RV2iYUHgqzU/s1600/FBO14-2.jpg) Stu entertaining the crowds and getting all funky on the last problem!©PaulBennettA day or so later I found myself watching the mens and womens halfpipe final in Sochi. Competitions in general are a cruel game, no matter what level they are at. It was interesting and also slightly encouraging to see elite athletes such as Sean White blow it and even Torah Bright not come out on top. Anything can happen in these things.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AHuoxjwYcnk/UwIsApgwLOI/AAAAAAAADXM/aoDBHBkhUUo/s1600/FBO14-5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AHuoxjwYcnk/UwIsApgwLOI/AAAAAAAADXM/aoDBHBkhUUo/s1600/FBO14-5.jpg) ©PaulBennett
Finally a big thanks to The Foundry, the route setters and all the events sponsors for putting on a quality day for everybody! Same again next year I hope... Also congrats to all the other finalists, especially Martin and Shauna on their win!
If you haven't had chance to check out the video of the day from Ben Pritchard and Rich Heap then take a look here :)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Winter deluge (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/02/winter-deluge.html)
25 February 2014, 2:51 pm
Since the start of December the winter, to put it bluntly, has been nothing short of depressing. We have all been in the same boat, in some cases quite literally... But while we get annoyed about not being able to get outside on dry rock, there are people down south that have had their lives turned upside down, with crazy scenes of flooding. So I guess in that respect we cannot complain too much. We have definitely gotten away with the worst of it up around here. I can't possibly imagine having water half way up your front door!
People say always look for the silver lining and one positive to pull from the last couple of months deluge of rain has been training. With nothing to do but climb indoors it has meant I have really been able to focus all my energy into some proper training. Without a doubt I feel much stronger than even just 6months ago, maybe no way near quite as fit but with a bit of luck that won't take very long to get back...
I have to admit though at times it has been a struggle to maintain motivation. Obviously I have goals in mind but ultimately we all want to be outdoors and it can be a struggle waking up every day with the rain lashing down on the skylight.
I think now I've just come to accept it and understand that its important to not let it bother you too much. The days now are getting longer, surprisingly fast, spring is just around the corner and with a bit of luck it'll bring some more settled weather.
When it has come good, on the odd occasion, we have tried to make the most of it and managed one or two fun ticks. Routes have really been out of the question, so I started getting back into my bouldering. Heading out on my own, laden down with a tonne of pads and trying various problems around the Peak.
Huffy's Roof - 7C+
300 Pound of Musclin Man - 7C+
Ben's Wall (Curbar) - 7C
Great White - 7C
Ben's Wall (RHS) - 7C
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_irITVHpbZA/UwctTKQh8-I/AAAAAAAADXs/hyMPb54tFLg/s1600/Bad+Landing+Boulder.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_irITVHpbZA/UwctTKQh8-I/AAAAAAAADXs/hyMPb54tFLg/s1600/Bad+Landing+Boulder.jpg)
It has however slowly been drying up since the start of February and it felt brilliant to get back in among the routes at the weekend. The wind was horrific so after a failed attempt to climb at Curbar we decided on seeking out shelter within Froggatt woods.
There is a route here I've known about for ages, Dick Van Dyke Goes Ballistic. I finally went to take a brief look at it with Sam Hamer a few weeks ago and while it was verging on a waterfall we figured it was worth coming back for during a dry spell. But with an armoury of brushes, as it was pretty filthy from top to bottom! It had probably only had a maximum of 2/3 ascents since first being put up by Dave Pegg 20 years ago!
Anyway I won't go into too much detail about it, but if you like something different, away from the main events then go seek it out. No doubt it'll have a flurry of ascents now, with the ground up gang queuing half way down the beck! Have fun.
Indoor Fisherman by the way, situated immediately to the right of this, is probably among one of the best E4's you'll find in the Peak, in a quaint little setting. So if you're looking for slightly easier/safer challenge, then I'd highly recommend it. :)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Keen Roof (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/03/keen-roof.html)
27 March 2014, 10:14 pm
So Tuesday marked another BIG step forward in my climbing. It is still taking time to properly sink in as I have been super busy this week with various things and barely had chance to sit down, let alone properly process what happened.
Keen Roof is a boulder problem first done by James Pearson a number of years ago and given the grade 8B/V13. It climbs straight through the roof of the cave down at Raven Tor, and has had a number of repeats of the years. In fact I believe it might be the most repeated 8B in the Peak/UK...
Anyway I had put it at the top of my list of projects for the coming season. I strive to excel at all disciplines of climbing, (bar ice climbing, but maybe in the future...) and while last year I managed to break into the next level with my sport climbing, by doing 8c and then E9 on trad, my bouldering was something I really wanted to try and push further this time around.
Last week I got a message off of Mina seeing if I was keen to head down the Tor, and after hearing how dry the place was I got psyched to get stuck in on the first limestone session of the year. I figured it'd be a good opportunity to give the fingers a good burn and reacquaint myself with the other big goal for this year. It was a freezing cold day, baltic in fact. But all the regulars were there and the place had the usual busy busy atmosphere.
I gave my project a couple of tries and was pleased to find out I could still remember all the intricate sequences and beta. It is going to be hard I'm sure, but if it was too easy then were would the fun be right!
There was a bunch of pads all laid out in cave, with one of the visiting Italians Stefano Ghisolfi, putting in some efforts on the monster problem 'Belly of the Beast'. A line were you virtually start lying in the dirt at the back of the cave before climbing out into Keen Roof. Chris Webb Parsons grabbed the FA of this thing a few months ago and it was cool to see somebody actually trying it.
Around 5 years ago I dabbled on Keen Roof, having no idea what I was doing at the time and knowing that in reality it was something way way beyond what I was currently capable of. Since then I've fondled the holds on occasions but never mustered the psyche to pull on and get involved.
So Saturday I took advantage of all the pads and had a quick 10 minute play with Stu. I decided to try the crux move out to the lip first and totally surprised myself in sticking it and climbing on through to the top. I was in state of slight shock at how straight forward it felt and quickly realised that I might actually be strong enough to pull this off. All I needed to do was link in a handful of starting moves and it'd be in the bag.
My skin was wrecked however and my whole body was a little shattered. But I felt super encouraged and full of excitement at what I'd just managed to do and quickly my thoughts turned to planning what day to return during the week. First though a rest day was needed to grow skin and recuperate!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5r_NVL__dv0/UzR3vfRK_uI/AAAAAAAADYI/hWLooy9LPFs/s1600/2014-03-25+17.13.11.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5r_NVL__dv0/UzR3vfRK_uI/AAAAAAAADYI/hWLooy9LPFs/s1600/2014-03-25+17.13.11.jpg)
My rest day was great, and I woke up Tuesday morning feeling much refreshed and rearing to go! Opening the curtains though over breakfast and we were greeted by mist and horrible drizzle and the forecast didn't look like it'd improve much. We figured we'd drive out anyway and take a look. Surprisingly the crag had held up fine, although conditions were not the best. Warming up my fingers felt strong and pretty soon I started to pull onto the different positions along the problem.
My first proper attempt from the start I slapped the lip, just missing the good hold. Second try, a while later, I stuck the lip move but fell coming around to match! It was close, I could sense that this thing was fully on now. The skin on my fingers felt super cold, to the point were I wasn't getting much purchase with the rock. I took 10 minutes to allow the blood to return and recharge myself.
The next try I instantly knew everything felt 100% better, pulling through the roof moves, sticking the lip slap with ease and coming around into the match felt bomber. Throwing the heel up I focused in and fired up to the finishing jug! Job done. It almost seemed a bit of an anti-climax. I hung there for a second or two to enable my brain to try and process what had just happened.
I had just climbed my first V13.
Unfortunately we didn't manage to get the actual send on video but luckily I had something still left in reserve for another round shortly afterward, this time in front of the camera. Here is my quick, and quite poor attempt, at stringing a short edit together. Thanks to my Dad for shooting this!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The Beast. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/04/the-beast.html)
22 April 2014, 10:29 am
Belly of the Beast never even entered my radar as something I could ever conceive of doing. Even when I managed to climb Keen Roof a couple of weeks ago, the thought of actually being able to climb a problem that Chris Webb Parson had given V15/8C, never actually crossed my mind.
Just to clear a couple of things up here is a quick run down on the problem itself. If you hate 'waffle' look away now.
For those that don't know this line, it basically starts right back in the cave at Raven Tor and climbs the extension start of Ben's Roof before breaking out and finishing up Keen. It's a fair amount of hard climbing, and virtually feels like a route in some respects. Yes, grovelling around in the back of a dirty, dark cave definitely is not everyone's cup of tea, and I know for certainty what some people think of the idea, but it's hard! And that is the point. The challenge. You have to look past the filthy surrounds of Gollums hideout and focus on the moves, which are actually fairly cool.
One of the visiting Italians, Stefano Ghisolfi grabbed the second ascent of it last month and downgraded it to around 8B+ or V14. Stefano chose to climb the line using the two knee bars that are available along the way, hence the downgrade and which I have to admit, definitely makes a difference to the overall difficulty.
Chris Webb however chose to climb the thing without, creating a much harder all round challenge.
Personally if a knee bar can be found on a route/problem I'll use it, to me it makes no sense not to and ends up causing the problem to become an eliminate.
Regardless of this, massive and utmost respect to Chris for preserving with it last year, when he had to deal with some pretty wet conditions to get it done. At the end of the day it is your own choice how you climb something and as long as you're happy with the style and having fun, who the hell cares.
Anyway it suddenly occurred to me after chatting with Dave Mason that it could be worth giving the thing a bash sometime. I'd done the start before, and was feeling fairly fit. So with this in mind I gave it a go. 1st try from the back I hit the lip of the roof. I was once again shocked. This is possible, this is actually going to go, I told myself. And by the feel of things, pretty dam soon!
However it didn't go that session, or the next, or the next unfortunately. I suddenly developed a mental block on the crux slap to the lip. My head would lose focus or I wouldn't place my feet right, or my fingers would numb up. It started to get super frustrating. I just wanted to get the thing done. Not for the grade, that was a bonus. But because it was such a long and hard piece of climbing.
Check out this funky short clip from JC (https://vimeo.com/jondude) of one of my previous attempts at the thing!
A week after first trying it, I suddenly realised I'd probably had around 4/5 sessions on the thing. There was no wonder it was starting to feel like a siege! A proper proper rest was in order. Some time to let the body fully recover and re-focus my brain on what needed to be done, so I took a couple days off.
Driving over last Thursday, the temps felt right and I was feeling well rested. We rocked up at the crag only to discover the holds were soaked. Unbelievable. The Tor can be a weird place at times.
Within an hour or two they had dried back slightly, so figured I'd give it a burn and see what happened.
It was feeling solid, I stuck the lip, screaming as I came into the match, heel went up, another power scream to latch the next hold and then another even louder than the last. It felt the hardest I have ever ever tried on a climb. One move from the finish though and it all came to an abrupt end. Every ounce of my power and strength squeezed from my body. Annoyed but buzzing at the same time, it did the world of good for my confidence. I knew it was game time.
Within 20 minutes it was in the bag on my second try of the day. Still a huge fight towards the end, but being more warmed up and with the extra confidence in myself, it made those final moves feel a little more steady. It was still probably the hardest I have ever had to fight on something.
Sitting on the mats afterward I tried to digest another big moment in my climbing. It was a nice feeling for sure.
Without a doubt I am feeling in best shape of my life right now, and I'm incredibly excited for whatever is next!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Nice Ethan, nice...
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Enter the Badger (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/04/enter-badger.html)
27 April 2014, 5:22 pm
It has been another crazy busy week, with so much stuff happening. Today is the first time in what seems like ages where I've had time to actually just sit down and chill a little.
So, to kick things off:
I took a trip to the secluded venue of Badger Cove over the Easter weekend to see what it was all about. I had actually been up there a few times before, many moons ago, with my Dad on various camping trips that we used to take together. But I wasn't able to remember much as we're talking somewhere around 15 years ago, so it was slightly surreal to be back and see the crag in a whole new light.
The cove itself sits high up on the valley side with a full on view of the impressive prehistoric Thirst House Cave. The dale feels like it has long been forgotten by the general public, who instead opt for the more well known destinations such as Chee Dale and Millers Dale. However it is a super nice setting and made a change climbing away from the hustle and bustle of the usual spots.
In recent years Badger Cove has become the home to a small collection of some of the hardest boulder problems in the Peak. This has all been down to the dedication and hard work of Dan Varian. His problems Dandelion Mind and Bewilderness, bother given V14, sit side by side and climb through some incredibly steep and hard terrain on immaculate rock.
Check out the video below of Dan's quest in making the FA!
It was Dandelion that interested me the most so we met up with a friend who was currently trying the problem and he quickly walked us through all the beta. It is a very basic, short boulder. You could almost describe it as a typical 'board' style problem. The crux involves a hard deadpoint slap to a small but fairly positive side-pull before another big lunge left again to a decent sized sloper.I pulled on for my first try and within seconds found myself on this last crux move, which blew me off and I landed back on the mats. It felt brilliant to have gotten so close though. The psyche instantly flowed through me, it certainly was not a million miles away...Feeling pretty wasted I didn't make any further progress that day and left with a smile on my face and stoked to return ASAP! First though a couple days off was needed.
I found myself back down here after just the one rest day. I had taken Sam down to show him the layout and figured on giving the thing a quick try. Mason and James arrived not long after us and the psyche started to build. The next thing I knew I was power screaming my way through those final moves, up to the glory jugs! Again, another crazy feeling that is hard to describe other than just sheer unbelief. Having a bunch of mates behind me, shouting encouragement was a massive help and I do feel that was a BIG factor in me maybe trying that little bit harder and giving it that extra couple of percent on the final moves.The next day we woke up to it hammering it down with rain. But it no longer mattered, for once I could not care less. :)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWNOH8kiyk8/U1qI1jXQWzI/AAAAAAAADY0/PqIaKdlFo70/s1600/Dand+1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWNOH8kiyk8/U1qI1jXQWzI/AAAAAAAADY0/PqIaKdlFo70/s1600/Dand+1.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aC6IS735ako/U1qI4FdIBRI/AAAAAAAADY8/DTTdtXFL7lg/s1600/Dand+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aC6IS735ako/U1qI4FdIBRI/AAAAAAAADY8/DTTdtXFL7lg/s1600/Dand+2.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Dovedale Developments... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/05/dovedale-developments.html)
7 May 2014, 8:35 pm
Around 8 years ago my Dad came home from one of his treks around Derbyshire, raving about a brand new, untouched bouldering cave he'd come across buried in the heart of Dovedale. Not long after he took me down and sure enough it seemed quite impressive and we shortly returned with pads and a scrubbing brush in hand.
There was obviously a bunch of various lines to be had, but one in particular stood out from the rest. Starting virtually at the back end of the cave, a line of weakness ran out through the roof that eventually lead you into a big juggy hole at the center of the cave. This seemed like a good a place as any to finish but there was clearly an opportunity to carry on from here and take the line even further.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wyXR21HG8tk/U2n8UyBfOgI/AAAAAAAADZU/E4jaFFSouLs/s1600/Dovedale+CAVE.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wyXR21HG8tk/U2n8UyBfOgI/AAAAAAAADZU/E4jaFFSouLs/s1600/Dovedale+CAVE.jpg)
I decided to share the place with a couple of friends, Matt Fry and Mark Evans. Together we spent a number of sessions working out some of the various problems and things started to come together little by little. It was clear however I was no where near strong enough for this place and a combination of that and the audious walk-in lead to it being put on the back burner for a long while.
Mark however ended up making the first ascent of the main line, calling it Future Proof and confirmed it to be somewhere around the V10 region.
Fast forward to the start of the limestone season this year and I vowed to really make an effort to get back down and get the place sorted out, before spreading the word. Over the years rumours had started to circulate of this hidden secret venue somewhere in Dovedale and I figured it was about time to put some effort in and open the place up.
My first session back we were surprised to find the place dry and after brushing up the main line I set about piecing it all together, trying to remember the intricate beta we had previously figured out. By the end of the afternoon however it was done and I could not have been happier!
Immediately afterward my mind started to think about the original plan of extending it all the way out around the lip of the cave....
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTmKCJI-JNI/U2n8SUqVLgI/AAAAAAAADZM/ExoSwSYiBws/s1600/Wounded+Knee.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wTmKCJI-JNI/U2n8SUqVLgI/AAAAAAAADZM/ExoSwSYiBws/s1600/Wounded+Knee.jpg)
Yesterday I headed back and managed to realise this idea, giving a really fun boulder problem, which packs in a lot of cool climbing and that actually feels more like a route!
I've dubbed the thing 'Bury My Heart' and figured it could well be around the 8A region as the extra moves around the lip definitely add a little on, but only time will tell I guess...
Regardless of this I feel it is a great addition to the dale and hopefully people will get psyched to check the place out for themselves and let us know what they think!
Directions:
Like previously mentioned, this place is seriously hidden away so listen closely...Approaching from Milldale the venue is around a 30 minute walk down the dale. Walk past Ilam Rock and carry on along the main path until reaching the wooden 'boardwalks' that skirt alongside the river. Immediately after the second boardwalk a small scree slope on the left appears with one of those 'money trees' lying at the bottom. Head up here and follow the small sheep track up and round until you see a large fir tree up on the left. The cave is situated directly behind this tree, but not visible until you are virtually stood on top of it!
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Apologies for the quality but below is a super quick topo I've thrown together showing just three of the main lines. I'll do my best to get a better one sorted at some point that shows more of the other established problems but for now... (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SRFli4GwegQ/U2oEBlZ2q7I/AAAAAAAADZs/7x_Ns1iD8uY/s1600/imageedit_4_2194094944.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SRFli4GwegQ/U2oEBlZ2q7I/AAAAAAAADZs/7x_Ns1iD8uY/s1600/imageedit_4_2194094944.jpg)
Future Proof, 7C+...
The main line of weakness from the back of the cave. Using a funky sequence of techy and 3D climbing work your way out to finish at the big jug in the middle.
Red: Bury My Heart, 8A
The full line of the cave, start as for Future Proof to its finish at the main central jug. From here bust on out to the block in the roof and make a big move up around the lip to better holds. Finish on a big flatty. Take care of the loose blocks!
Green: Black Heels, 7B+C
Start from a square cutout piece of rock and fire out to the big block. Use cunning/trickery to match before finishing up Bury My Heart.
Blue: 6C+ ish
The original problem. A standard lip traverse that finishes halfway along the mouth of the cave. Start low down on the left from the good juggy ledges.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The definition of hard. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-definition-of-hard.html)
3 June 2014, 7:44 pm
RECLIMBING THE CLASSICS
Mammut presents six 'rock classics' -- milestones in the history of sports climbing. And the people who climbed them for the first time, revisiting their own routes accompanied by top climbers from the Mammut Pro Team.
Two weeks back I hooked up with a bunch of Swiss guys and Sean Mccoll for a week of filming in the Peak. Mammut have this really cool campaign currently running that is showcasing some of the most famous routes throughout the world. Hubble is one of them, being the very first 8c+ to ever be climbed and a route that has still only seen a handfull of successful repeats in the 20 odd years since the first ascent. All of these repeats have been by British climbers. Not that foreigners haven't tried, plenty of the worlds best have, albeit on very short flying visits, but so far it has eluded them all. Even Ondra, who had this to say after his first acquaintance with the route a few years back...
"The world's first 8c+, which could be easily even 9a in my opinion. It is not the most inspiring line, it seems more like a boulder problem with a rope and easier topout, but one must admit that it is of revolutionary difficulty for its time and I believe that it isn't by any means easier than Action Directe, the world's first 9a established a year later..."
Anyway I had been getting myself psyched up for their visit ever since first hearing about the film project and was keen to get involved. It was fingers crossed the weather and conditions would hold out.
After spending a day belaying and getting super inspired by Sean on the route I started to get more fired up to take a look myself. Hubble is a route that has always been, and still is, completely out of this stratosphere for me. I almost felt a little embarrassed tying in to try it. A route of so much reputation and history.
But I figured it'd be fun to just check out the moves and see just exactly how hard it felt.
The answer... Bloody nails. The holds turned out to be much smaller than I imagined and the moves super intense and incredibly powerful. It was a pretty humbling experience but I was really glad to have taken a peek at what truly hard climbing is all about. As well as get a small glimpse at being able to comprehend just what it would take to do a line of this caliber. It is still crazy to think Ben climbed this way back in 1990 and makes you appreciate even more just how good he really was.
Maybe I'll try again in the future, I'd certainly like to, but first I need to get a little stronger... It is a dream route. Maybe not in an aesthetic sense, because on a whole it is nothing much to look at, but because it is HUBBLE.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJxRzXtBDL0/U44AsRQbYPI/AAAAAAAADaE/73E2KesWe7U/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D361553.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJxRzXtBDL0/U44AsRQbYPI/AAAAAAAADaE/73E2KesWe7U/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D361553.JPG)
It was great to hang out with Sean and the rest of the crew for the week. Keep an eye out for all the video which will be released later in the year. In the mean time you can follow the campaign over on the Mammut website: http://mammut-rockclimbing.ch/en/
And it you haven't already then take a look at the latest video in the series featuring Jan Hojer on Action Directe! Some seriously impressive footage and climbing!
A special thanks to Rainer Eder for the great photos. This guy has a very impressive photography resume. You can see more of his work over on his website here: www.rainereder.com (http://www.rainereder.com/)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tyQK_ZU053I/U44DCn2j2fI/AAAAAAAADaY/bfTmd3kqdDI/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D361567.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tyQK_ZU053I/U44DCn2j2fI/AAAAAAAADaY/bfTmd3kqdDI/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D361567.JPG)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The highs and lows of summer. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/06/the-highs-and-lows-of-summer.html)
20 June 2014, 12:46 pm
Well it seems to have taken a little while to get here but summer finally seems to be kicking off, just about anyway. It has been a strange last month or so in the Peak, conditions have been constantly up and down. One minute things seem dry, the next they're soaked again. The usual frustrations emerge.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d-txnk6Y22o/U6GzjDVOaGI/AAAAAAAADbA/gfKg65iIv7c/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D362692.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d-txnk6Y22o/U6GzjDVOaGI/AAAAAAAADbA/gfKg65iIv7c/s1600/RE_CLB_SH0435_D362692.JPG)©Rainer Eder
However, right now I am in full training mode as my trip to Ceuse is rapidly approaching. My original plan for this summer was to hit up Rocklands to try and test this new found boulder power on some real world class problems. Afterward I'd make a stop in France on the way home to tie into a rope for a couple of weeks. Unfortunately our plans don't always work out exactly how we'd like, so South Africa is going to have to wait until next year now. It does mean though that now I'll be heading to Ceuse for an extended trip. Flights are booked, we leave for round 2 at one of the best crags in the world on 7th July for a whole month. I cannot wait to get stuck into the routes here and once again settle into the chilled out campsite scene below, as well as hooking up with some old friends from around the globe. I am even looking forward to the walk-in, although I'm sure that will soon fade after a couple of days! Anyway with a bit of luck I'll have a slightly better trip than my previous visit 3 years ago...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tfof4C9BkNY/U6Qeu664aWI/AAAAAAAADbY/hTCLVjQ71gw/s1600/JimboCentPatates.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tfof4C9BkNY/U6Qeu664aWI/AAAAAAAADbY/hTCLVjQ71gw/s1600/JimboCentPatates.jpg)
In between making sure my fitness is as good as can be before my trip, we have had a cool few days up in Yorkshire along with the usual pottering about the Peak looking for new bits of rock and new moves to keep motivated.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljbsGX-torg/U6QoFSn5ofI/AAAAAAAADb0/V30v-2tlQdU/s1600/IMG_20140611_112425.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ljbsGX-torg/U6QoFSn5ofI/AAAAAAAADb0/V30v-2tlQdU/s1600/IMG_20140611_112425.jpg)Kilnsey is brilliant. I wish it was closer because for me (and I'm sure many others) it is the best sport climbing crag in the UK. I think I was even more impressed the first time I saw it than I was with Malham. Shamefully though last week was only my 3rd ever visit to this place. There is so so much to do here and it was awesome to be on fresh rock with countless routes to try, as well as provide a good means of fitness testing.
To my surprise my arms held out longer than expected with the classic route Let them eat Jellybeans ticked on my second try and an onsight of probably the best 7c in the UK, Dominatrix. A year ago trying something like this would have absolutely terrified me. This time I could not wait to tie in and set off up that perfect steep wall. It was a lot of fun all the way to the belay and lived up to its reputation of being a true classic.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8ZdBmSJ_EQ/U6QdvRZVg6I/AAAAAAAADbQ/LPkjgoMsZ9Q/s1600/Ethan_Boobs.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m8ZdBmSJ_EQ/U6QdvRZVg6I/AAAAAAAADbQ/LPkjgoMsZ9Q/s1600/Ethan_Boobs.jpg)Boobs (8a) on Chee TorPhoto: Jon Clark Just one of the cool routes we have sought out of late. A small lesson in your technical ability, in a tranquil setting by the river. I do love it down Chee Dale. It has to be my favourite place in the Peak to climb, and I was pleased to get up a couple of hard test pieces under my belt last month. Both Rupert Davis lines: Kali Yuga (8b) and his newer companion to this Flow (8a+). The rock quality is bullet hard on perfect crimps and dishes and while short n sweet they offer some quality moves, that sum up what climbing in this part of the country is all about.
Right, its time to go out and enjoy the June sunshine! Have a good weekend everyone!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qHM0CBsa5M/U6QiStVyEJI/AAAAAAAADbk/CIHSt9o6Fuc/s1600/ceuze_1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qHM0CBsa5M/U6QiStVyEJI/AAAAAAAADbk/CIHSt9o6Fuc/s1600/ceuze_1.jpg)Counting down the days... Le Massif de Céüse
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Ceuse | The Return (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/07/ceuse-return.html)
19 July 2014, 1:32 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yMYDqYtoPI/U8pvrLTq67I/AAAAAAAADcQ/t_3xtCmchM8/s1600/20140711_110246.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1yMYDqYtoPI/U8pvrLTq67I/AAAAAAAADcQ/t_3xtCmchM8/s1600/20140711_110246.jpg)
It feels amazing to be out here with so much fitness in the tank. All the training and preparation have already been worth it, yet as I write this it is only the end of the third day of climbing. Even the BIG walk is feeling good, much to my surprise!
Each morning so far we are awake early and buzzing to set off up to the crag. This place really is one of the best climbing destinations on earth and its great to finally be able to truly appreciate it. The routes are incredible, the setting a thing of beauty. The campsite is full of life as usual, packed with super friendly people from all over the world. It's been fun to get back into the scene and simple lifestyle here and again meet bunches of new and cool people.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-skH-ybcSdis/U8pwFrniXbI/AAAAAAAADcY/Y3097Je8qfQ/s1600/20140711_133156.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-skH-ybcSdis/U8pwFrniXbI/AAAAAAAADcY/Y3097Je8qfQ/s1600/20140711_133156.jpg)
I can totally understand now why the last time I was here the others were so keen to get up the hill each morning. When you are sending and climbing well you almost forget its often tedious nature and as you spend the time thinking about your next project the 40-50 minutes that the hike takes quickly flies by. But if things are maybe not going your way then it can become a real drag every day and your motivation quickly dissapears, which was exactly my experience on the previous visit.
The weather so far has been questionable... In fact I have only just dried out after getting totally drenched on the walk down earlier. It is certainly not as hot as 3 years ago when we wore nothing but shorts and vests for nearly a month, but conditions in general have been decent, just super cold at times. Down jackets and beanies are a must!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZoAZdh78NGI/U8px3XvWpMI/AAAAAAAADco/JszA3hb82q8/s1600/2014-07-14+21.29.06.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZoAZdh78NGI/U8px3XvWpMI/AAAAAAAADco/JszA3hb82q8/s1600/2014-07-14+21.29.06.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The clouds roll in...[/td][/tr]
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Once again there are a whole host of international WADS out here including Alex Megos, who has been on fire this last week on his first ever visit to Ceuse. Unfortuntately we missed his ascent of Realisation a couple of days ago by 5 minutes! But then saw him cruise up one of the crags more recent routes, Mr Hyde (8c+) in absolutely baltic conditions. Very inspiring for sure to see people so strong!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgsgBdFLSQI/U8pxElNdV1I/AAAAAAAADcg/ekD49NSf4Nc/s1600/IMG_20140718_235002.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bgsgBdFLSQI/U8pxElNdV1I/AAAAAAAADcg/ekD49NSf4Nc/s1600/IMG_20140718_235002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Waiting for shade to arrive with the German crew[/td][/tr]
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The amount of quality routes here can sometimes be overwhelming. Every sector has classic after classic all within a few meters of each other. So far the goal has been to just try to get through as much of the routes I failed on last time out, and then we'll maybe see about trying something a little harder after.
Favourites so far have got to be L'ami de tout le Monde (8b) and Les Colennettes (8a)! Both are world class lines and so much fun! Clipping the chain on L'ami was surreal as the mist was so thick you could barely make out your belayer on the ground! Climbing in the clouds! It was also pretty special on a personal level being my 100th 8th, nothing significant really but a nice landmark to reach.
Today is a rest day but tomorrow if the weather holds then it'll be back up the hill and hopefully carry on the send train. Off to rustle up a power curry now for dinner after a quick hitch down to Gap earlier to pick up fresh veggies! Rollin'
Cheers for checking in!
E
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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French life, Part 2... (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/07/french-life-part-2.html)
27 July 2014, 11:30 am
Ceuse|Part 2
Since writing this post the weather has improved a heck of a lot and we've finally been able to string together a few days of back to back climbing. Currently sat enjoying scrambled eggs and fresh French bread under clear blue skies. All is well in the world.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YloTWwclE0/U9Tgk-DgyVI/AAAAAAAADdQ/7SsPY8_xm00/s1600/2014-07-27+13.15.08.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0YloTWwclE0/U9Tgk-DgyVI/AAAAAAAADdQ/7SsPY8_xm00/s1600/2014-07-27+13.15.08.png)
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The rain is once again lashing it down outside, bouncing off my tent as I lay warm and dry tucked up inside, wrapped in my down sleeping bag. Just another summer moutain storm passing through the valley, that seems to last a lifetime.
Today however it has fallen on a rest day for us so we can't complain and it should hopefully cool things down to make good conditions tomorrow at the crag. Hard to believe just a few hours ago we were chilling in the hot french sunshine, eating a leisurely lunch, drinking coffee and reading. Letting our aching bodies recover from the previous few days of climbing and walking. The perfect way to spend a rest day out here.
The days are flying by however, as they usually do on these kind of ventures. When there is nothing to think or worry about other than getting up each morning to go climbing, they very soon begin to blend into one and no sooner than you realise, that thing we call time has eaten into well into the halfway point of your trip. It is an inevitable thing that we have to put up with but when all said and done we cannot have any complaints really. We are in the south of France after all, climbing on some of the best limestone around!
My time here has continued in the same vein as it started and I could not be happier with how things are going. I only wish we were staying longer so that it would be possible to really get stuck into some of the harder routes. There are sooo many it boggles my mind! For now I'm quite content to keep ticking my way through the crag classics, and maybe by next week it might be time to check out something a notch harder...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TiKm7Odmodo/U9Tb0FIlqfI/AAAAAAAADdA/2jSGCC66eFk/s1600/20140721_174742.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TiKm7Odmodo/U9Tb0FIlqfI/AAAAAAAADdA/2jSGCC66eFk/s1600/20140721_174742.jpg)
Yesterday was a pretty special day. We awoke slightly earlier, had the usual breakfast and set off up the hill to Cascade, hoping for cooler tempertures. It was certainly much better up there than the previous visit and our psyche quickly shot up a gear. On the agenda today was the uber bouldery 8b 'Violente Illusion'. The route is a game of two halves. A super sharp and powerful V9 boulder problem guards a brilliant 7b+ route above, on big buckets and perfect scollops of limestone. I tried without success a few days previous, in less than ideal conditions, which very quickly sped up the process of destroying my skin. After a warmup on the upper section I set off for a burn on the lower boulder but after 2 or 3 failed attempts decided to change things up. Sometimes you just know something isn't going to work so I reverted to another method, and with this my foot positions automatically found footholds that before seemed impossible to use. I stuck the crux slap into the groove virtually static. It was such a breakthrough for me I could barely contain my excitement. I lowered down for a brief rest and within a few minutes found myself climbing through the boulder problem and hanging out on the biggest bucket of a hold you can possibly imagine. From here I was left to enjoy the upper wall just as the warm midday sun started to sneak its way onto the crag.
The send train continued later on when my South African friend, Jamie, managed to send his route too. 'Face de Rat' one of the best 8a+'s at the crag, featuring perfectly sculptured holds, perfect moves with one or two typical spicey Ceuse runouts to keep things even more interesting along the way. I came so desperately close to flashing this thing a few days prior, falling at the final hurdle where with a little more luck on my side things may have been different... However it succumbed with ease on my second go and while slightly dissapointed it was just great to feel that fitness again and clip the anchor on another fantastic route. Big thanks to Michelle for guiding us up the wall with inch perfect beta!
We finished the day over at the Berlin sector and just as we were preparing to make our way down to the campsite for dinner we were lucky enough to witness Ondra take down Realisation. Very inspiring to see such an awesome feat of climbing from someone so crazy strong and dedicated. The perfect way to end the day!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xd0YOmo1sPc/U9TbRWJG-4I/AAAAAAAADc4/CFHf0NHbatk/s1600/IMG_20140723_143002.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Xd0YOmo1sPc/U9TbRWJG-4I/AAAAAAAADc4/CFHf0NHbatk/s1600/IMG_20140723_143002.jpg)
The King shakes out after nailing the final boulder problem crux of Chris Sharma's world famous route 'Realisation' (9a+)
With a little luck this rain will stop soon and we'll be able to climb again tomorrow. For now though there is not much else to do other than get fired up for the next routes on the list, play some Candy Crush and read Sherlock Holmes!
Cheers for checkin in :)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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A Summer in Paradise (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/08/a-summer-in-paradise.html)
8 August 2014, 9:14 am
The Final Roundup
After a month living at the foot of arguably one of the greatest and most majestic sport climbing destinations worldwide, I am finally back home and enjoying spending a day or two relaxing and catching up with family and all that's been happening in the world while we've been away.
I started to write a final post as the end of my trip approached, so below is an extract from that, along with a selection of photos with some more words and thoughts put together since getting back.
Put the kettle on yo!
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So my time out here is swiftly drawing to a close. It is hard to believe that it is the eve of my last day before I start making my way back home Tuesday morning. It's one of those cliches but it barely seems 5 minutes ago that we rocked up at the campsite raring to go with a months worth of climbing to look forward to.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1drBefRlHI/U-PQnftI-qI/AAAAAAAADeo/nLN5HPBjkUc/s1600/IMG_20140805_222557.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-k1drBefRlHI/U-PQnftI-qI/AAAAAAAADeo/nLN5HPBjkUc/s1600/IMG_20140805_222557.jpg)
At the start it feels like the time to leave will never arrive but unfortunately everything has to come to an end at some point, and I could not be more psyched with how this whole trip has progressed. Even though I'm sad to be leaving, at the same time I'm looking forward to heading back home to a hopefully dry Peak... and chilling out with a few home comforts for a day or two.
This place, while totally awesome, definitely starts to take its toll on you after a while. Maybe not physically, more in a mental fashion. Each day I feel fitter and fitter but anyone who has spent a month or more out here will understand and know where I'm coming when I say this I'm sure.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6D5ibEe1kN8/U-PLrzzd28I/AAAAAAAADds/2u7tB1qKhWo/s1600/IMG_20140724_134546.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6D5ibEe1kN8/U-PLrzzd28I/AAAAAAAADds/2u7tB1qKhWo/s1600/IMG_20140724_134546.jpg)While getting to climb here each day is on another level, one of my favourite times of day out here has to be waking up each morning, sticking on the stove for a brew, munching down on some cereal while mulling over and getting fired up for the days climbing ahead. Equally satisfying is crashing into your tent after a long hot day at the crag, cooking up a beast of a meal to refuel before writing up your ticklist and thinking over the session you've just had. Then to finish, sitting around till bedtime with friends and exchanging stories from everyone's day to then finally letting your head hit the pillow. All ready to repeat again the next day!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gpVebgxeBvg/U-PZ4q45YmI/AAAAAAAADfo/XtJPL-6uKOY/s1600/Photo+12-07-2014+11+57+27(2).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gpVebgxeBvg/U-PZ4q45YmI/AAAAAAAADfo/XtJPL-6uKOY/s1600/Photo+12-07-2014+11+57+27(2).jpg) The perfect route? Sending L'Ami de tout le Monde (8b) as the clouds and mountain rain start to roll on in.Photo | Sophie Whyte
Without a doubt this has been the best climbing trip I've been on yet. Not only for the shear quality and quantity of routes I managed to get done compared to my previous visit, but for the countless memorable experiences along the way.
From those simple rest days where the only things you do all day long is lay in the sun, eating, reading and topping up the tan to those moments at the crag that you've been training for.
By the end of week two I flashed my first 'proper' 8a (L'Ami Caouette) shortly followed by a flash of probably one of the most famous (and scariest) routes in Ceuse. The super technical, slabby and much sort after 3 star 8a+ that is 'La Femme Blanche'. On a personal level achieving this is one of my proudest moments in my climbing and one I certainly will not be forgetting in a hurry. The trad head definitely kicked into gear as the slabby section began to get more and more run out. Scary gritstone trad must be good for something right...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lm4If4Jyk-k/U-PRj1qVEAI/AAAAAAAADew/uJLwXd1YKVw/s1600/IMG_20140729_115931.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lm4If4Jyk-k/U-PRj1qVEAI/AAAAAAAADew/uJLwXd1YKVw/s1600/IMG_20140729_115931.jpg) The perfect rest day activity. Breakfast in Gap eating fresh French pastries!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wQbilTKQu2M/U-SLJRTC-sI/AAAAAAAADf4/abioQpUqEqY/s1600/IMG_0547.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wQbilTKQu2M/U-SLJRTC-sI/AAAAAAAADf4/abioQpUqEqY/s1600/IMG_0547.jpg)Sam Hamer back in 2011, weaves his way through the perfect limestone pockets that form the upper headwall 'L'Ami Caouette' (8a)Photo | Dirk Smith
With L'Ami Caouette I set off with the flash in mind, figuring I'd just see how things felt, but on Femme Blanche I had no real plan and basically started climbing to check what all the fuss was about. Then slowly as I got gradually higher and higher up the wall I began to suddenly realise that maybe, just maybe I could reach the belay. One super scary moment, high above my last bolt, clinging onto a poor pinch before having to shuffle delicately back leftwards on tiny slippy smears for your feet, marked the turning point when I really started to believe I could reach the chain. Thankfully I had expert guidance constantly being shouted up from below by both Lena and Marco! Without their beta and help I can guarantee I would have never made it to the sanctuary of the belay! A huge relief. Cheers guys! Big respect especially to Lena for also sending, particularly as it was so soon after recovering from badly damaging her ankle out in Magic Wood 2 weeks prior. Strong!
It has been said time and time again that quite often with most sport routes we'll forget the feeling of sending, they just never quite stick with you the same as a hard scary trad line. This ascent however I will remember for a long time.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AgfQ_PMbDZ0/U-PObrCUMPI/AAAAAAAADeI/XZ0XUDPRRRA/s1600/2014-07-30+18.10.25.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AgfQ_PMbDZ0/U-PObrCUMPI/AAAAAAAADeI/XZ0XUDPRRRA/s1600/2014-07-30+18.10.25.jpg) The view that never gets old
Fitness wise I was just constantly left amazed at the difference from 3 years ago. Routes I fell off a million times, pumped out of my brains, veins screaming, succumbed as virtual warm-ups. Others that I could only dream of sending before went down within a couple of tries. It was just mind blowing and I'm incredibly psyched that all the training and hard work have paid off. Just as an example, on my previous visit, in the space of 4 weeks I ticked something like 3 decent routes... The hardest being a bouldery 7c+ at Cascade. This time, I've come home with just shy of a 50 route tick list up to 8b with whole host of onsights and flashes.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZgPD6SKYvU/U-PQVfC2ImI/AAAAAAAADeg/fHOFjTEGVC4/s1600/IMG_20140719_145424.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eZgPD6SKYvU/U-PQVfC2ImI/AAAAAAAADeg/fHOFjTEGVC4/s1600/IMG_20140719_145424.jpg)
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The thought did cross my mind to maybe get on something a little harder, yet while very tempting there was far too much to keep us occupied and in the end I opted to just try and tick as many routes as possible, regardless of grade. There will always be another trip for the harder lines, and this one has got me fully fired up to return again in the future to give them a go. There are just sooo many!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ1aRIk_x9c/U-PVFdjuAYI/AAAAAAAADfY/55sPhikJk7g/s1600/IMG_20140725_210331.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kJ1aRIk_x9c/U-PVFdjuAYI/AAAAAAAADfY/55sPhikJk7g/s1600/IMG_20140725_210331.jpg)Gnarly!
It would be a total nightmare to have to choose a list of favourites, virtually impossible, but below is a small selection of one of two that seem to slightly stand out from the others for me. Everyone of them a classic and an absolute joy to climb!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbD2BRN3BCc/U-PThcEwv1I/AAAAAAAADfE/TVfIMuxLF3I/s1600/2(2).jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fbD2BRN3BCc/U-PThcEwv1I/AAAAAAAADfE/TVfIMuxLF3I/s1600/2(2).jpg)- Radote Jolie Pépère - 8b
- L'Ami de tout le Monde - 8b
- La Femme Blanche - 8a+ (Flash)
- Face de Rat - 8a+ (2nd go)
- Mirage - 7c+ (Onsight)
- Tout n'es pas si Facile - 7c+ (Onsight)
- Encore - 8a+ (2nd go)
- Les Colonnettes - 8a (2nd go)
- Rosanna - 8a (2nd go)
- Makach Walou - 7c+ (Onsight)
- L'Ami Caouette - 8a (Flash)
- Sueurs Froides - 8a+
- Violente Illusion - 8b
- Berlin - 7c (Onsight)
- Cent Patates - 7b+ (Onsight)
I went out to Ceuse with a vague plan, a fairly rough idea of what I wanted to achieve. Which was basically, climb as much as possible and better than my first visit! So I am beyond thrilled that it all worked out and to not only accomplish what I originally set out to do, but so much more at the same time. It may sound slightly 'cheesy' but if you really want something and it means that much to you, then nothing can stop you from reaching your goals. Whatever they may be, big or small. Get out there and make your plans happen and your dreams a reality.
Huge thanks to everyone that contributed to making this trip so special, old friends and new friends from around the world. It isn't all about the climbing on these kind of ventures, that is only half the fun, but it is equally about the people you meet along the way and the new friendships you form. Once again we managed to hook up with a whole host of international guys and gals ranging from the USA to Denmark. Hope to see you all again sometime soon!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Goqu1PbZcoA/U-PNPIf_iKI/AAAAAAAADd4/NLZVRXq3eZ8/s1600/IMG_20140806_221744.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Goqu1PbZcoA/U-PNPIf_iKI/AAAAAAAADd4/NLZVRXq3eZ8/s1600/IMG_20140806_221744.jpg)Big shoutout to Arthur and Alize for putting on an incredible surprise BBQ for us the other night. Totally out the blue and very much appreciated! Another example of how great and generous the climbing community really is.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SWwLJxoAiRY/U-SQiAZNSYI/AAAAAAAADgo/CmzNdbx9vR4/s1600/IMG_20140718_235142.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SWwLJxoAiRY/U-SQiAZNSYI/AAAAAAAADgo/CmzNdbx9vR4/s1600/IMG_20140718_235142.jpg) Finally another huge thankyou to all my sponsors for all their support. They truly are the best in the business! Mammut, 5.10, ProBalm, Nakd & Trek Bars, Scheckters Organic Energy.
Special mention has to go to the folk at Natural Balance Foods (http://www.naturalbalancefoods.co.uk/)and Scheckters Energy (http://www.schecktersorganic.com/) for sending me out enough bars and energy drinks for the whole trip. They certainly did their job in getting me through the hike to the crag each day and up all the rad routes we've managed to tick! If you've never checked these two companies out before then you are missing out! Click onto their websites and judge for yourselves :)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ2mm75m3aw/U-PNU42T0QI/AAAAAAAADeA/BVc4lE1DO0Y/s1600/IMG_20140801_130058.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ2mm75m3aw/U-PNU42T0QI/AAAAAAAADeA/BVc4lE1DO0Y/s1600/IMG_20140801_130058.jpg)A thumbs up for Scheckters from Lena after sending her project!
The only problem with spending a chunk of the summer months away is that you arrive back home and it suddenly dawns on you that 'summer' is nearly over! Hard to believe August is upon us already, but that is the way it goes I guess. Time moves swiftly on.
My plans now are to hopefully take advantage of a dry Cornice...? Maybe try to finish off one or two things down there, alongside making some more trips up to Kilnsey. Soooo uber keen for this crag! Excited to put some of this Euro fitness to the test there...
Then it'll be time for my first trip to Font in September, which I am pretty dam psyched about. Embarrassing I've never been before I know, so definitely looking forward to it. After that my thoughts and training will turn to a trip to Spain for New Years. Missed out on all the action out here the last few years, so this time it is GAME ON! Get me to Siurana!
Cheers for reading and following me on my short French adventure over the last month.
Onto the next!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0D_PfLUc3Y/U-SNTWTW4oI/AAAAAAAADgE/JVaKkWy9rQc/s1600/IMG_20140803_202647.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F0D_PfLUc3Y/U-SNTWTW4oI/AAAAAAAADgE/JVaKkWy9rQc/s1600/IMG_20140803_202647.jpg) Until next time Céüse...
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Learning to try hard again (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/08/learning-to-try-hard-again.html)
20 August 2014, 10:56 am
What does it mean to try hard. To really try hard I mean. To try so hard and give the absolute maximum amount of effort.
There have been a number of articles written on the subject and not just climbing related ones but across all sports and life in general.
We all have the ability to dig deep and find that extra bit of effort from somewhere that enables us to push boundaries and achieve our goals. How do we harness this ability though and how can we turn it on more often?
Within our sport there are obviously different types of climbing that require different approaches and different levels of trying hard. During the spring I had tapped into the ability to fully commit every single ounce of my strength and being into pulling through hard moves and bouldery sequences. I'm talking about the type of 'try hard' were we bust our guts on that one individual move, or scream like Ondra as we fight to cling onto those final few holds before the top.
It wasn't just having the physical strength but I also think the mental strength to train my mind into totally believing that the body was capable of pulling off that particular move and nothing was about to get in the way of that. If you can master this art of belief in yourself then you'll be surprised at what the body can actually accomplish.
Out in Ceuse you tend to have to adapt a different type of 'try hard'. The routes are long, pumpy and can be mentally challenging. It's a test of endurance rather than how hard you can crank down. Not that some routes don't require any pure boulder power at all, there are plenty that do. But in general, its all about how long you can keep on pulling before the dreaded lactic acid floods every single inch of fiber in your forearms!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e87zYV6ZkF4/U_Ropu7itjI/AAAAAAAADhA/2o3radUn5RE/s1600/Ethan_32-3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e87zYV6ZkF4/U_Ropu7itjI/AAAAAAAADhA/2o3radUn5RE/s1600/Ethan_32-3.jpg)
So coming back to the Peak where the majority of routes are less than 20 meters and often built around short bouldery and powerful crimpy sequences, was going to be a slight shock to the system at first...
On returning home I took a couple of days to relax, recover and to just enjoy doing absolutely nothing. I caught up with friends, family and all that had been happening in the world over the last month and ate plenty of tasty home cooked food! Waking up in my own bed has never felt so good.
However the weekend came around and I started to get the itch to pull down on some rock. I needed my fix and the Chee Dale cornice was calling. Within 15minutes of leaving the car we were at the crag and already warming up. A pleasant change from the Ceuse routine!
32 is a short 8b+ and another tough offering from local and ever keen new route activist, Kristian Clemmow. It bascially takes a direct line into the top of the 8a+ testpiece 'R n P' involving some powerful and bouldery climbing through the lower bulges. The rain had beat me to it on this one last year so it was at the top of my list to finish off!
It is safe to say that I felt all a bit hungover to be honest, although at least I had managed to get myself reacquainted with the moves. My arms felt weak and it was obvious I needed my body to remember how to pull down on Peak lime again!
I spent a day trying to re-engage my brain into a 'bouldering on a rope' mindset. I knew that pure power was still there somewhere, but how to coax it back out again was proving difficult. Patience was the key...
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Another couple of days resting I felt ready and refreshed for another go. The crux is rumoured to be around a V9/10 bloc and requires pulling off two low undercuts to a high sloper using possibly the biggest drop knee you can possibly imagine. It was still feeling dam hard and I sensed the frustration starting to build. Then suddenly an intermediate crimper sprang into view, opening the whole thing up and within a couple of efforts I was pulling through the final hard moves and clipping the belay feeling pretty stoked! I'd got my boulder power back!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9B5n7dGuf2c/U_Rpmt6qyEI/AAAAAAAADhQ/RmixcONlhQs/s1600/Ethan_32-2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9B5n7dGuf2c/U_Rpmt6qyEI/AAAAAAAADhQ/RmixcONlhQs/s1600/Ethan_32-2.jpg)
While writing this post I was reminded of an article written by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk last year for Summit Magazine, where she discussed the art of trying. After reading her thoughts on the subject again and her experiences, it was nice to see that we are both on the same wave length.
"...that split-second moment when you should be falling off but you dig deep – somewhere hidden and not often called upon – and for a moment you think nothing, see nothing, experience nothing. But you’re still on the rock."Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, 2013
You can check the full article out here over on her blog:
http://www.minalesliewujastyk.com/pushing-it
Quite often we will lay awake at night going over the moves of our projects again and again in our minds. We can virtually feel the holds under our fingertips and visulise ourselves climbing every move to absolute perfection. You find yourself totally buzzing and feeling like a kid on Christmas Eve, hardly able to contain your excitement for the morning to arrive.
Then sometimes we'll rock up at the crag the next day and nerves and doubt will start to set in as you look up at the blank canvas of rock before you. If only we could keep the mind in that state of psyche from the previous evening...
"Improving at this sport is an input-output system—the effort you put into climbing directly correlates to success.... we need to take that next fall, and then fall again and again … until we send."Sasha DiGiulian, 2013
While it can be easier said than done, the next time you are struggling to get that breakthrough you are so desperately craving on that particular project, take a step back and attempt to engage your mind into that 'try hard' state of thinking. Maybe it'll only yield one more move further, or maybe it'll get you all the way to the top. Either way you've made progress right?
Find that self belief to keep on pushing even when the pull of gravity starts to get stronger, your fingers begin to uncurl from their grip and your head begins to scream out for you to shout 'take'. You just never know where that extra bit of effort will get you....
For some mid-week inspiration in trying hard have a quick watch of this:
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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We've been duped! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/09/weve-been-duped.html)
22 September 2014, 8:30 am
The good early autumn temperatures that were upon throughout August very quickly gave way to an Indian summer and so far this month hasn't been all we'd hoped for. However plenty of stuff has still been happening and I'm learning to be patient and wait it out. The one positive is that the Cornice is still in prime condition. It's been fun finishing off the last few remaining routes I had to do down here, although there are still a couple left... but they'll probably end up staying that way! Desperate!
Anyway I've thrown together a collection of photos from the last few weeks that give a snapshot of what we've been up to. Time for a brew!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AW0RznecCkc/VB_UhPx3EgI/AAAAAAAADkY/pszkrvyiw9E/s1600/Ethan_FourDoor-3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AW0RznecCkc/VB_UhPx3EgI/AAAAAAAADkY/pszkrvyiw9E/s1600/Ethan_FourDoor-3.jpg)
Three points on 'Four Door Dostoyevsky'
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FZUxruTrwEA/VB_VVLzdsqI/AAAAAAAADko/J5Cen5INscA/s1600/Ethan_Monumental.jpg) Monumental Armblaster (8a+)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HD0BlPOsP6A/VB_WbQqNQLI/AAAAAAAADk0/yq4aF5_4BgY/s1600/Ethan_Monumental2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HD0BlPOsP6A/VB_WbQqNQLI/AAAAAAAADk0/yq4aF5_4BgY/s1600/Ethan_Monumental2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I5nn0MJwUao/VB_Uwl_6LMI/AAAAAAAADkg/40okSguJIJ8/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I5nn0MJwUao/VB_Uwl_6LMI/AAAAAAAADkg/40okSguJIJ8/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah-2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRIMt5B7mRM/VB_W4S9nE3I/AAAAAAAADk8/G204-x6jm9U/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah-1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qRIMt5B7mRM/VB_W4S9nE3I/AAAAAAAADk8/G204-x6jm9U/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah-1.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YOI01-j1LSU/VB_XeBZcujI/AAAAAAAADlE/IjZeZbiSUvw/s1600/Ethan_FourDoor-12.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YOI01-j1LSU/VB_XeBZcujI/AAAAAAAADlE/IjZeZbiSUvw/s1600/Ethan_FourDoor-12.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MzCXO_RBMfg/VB_b1uDOfDI/AAAAAAAADlQ/BfbLqr4NkBY/s1600/Butterflies.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MzCXO_RBMfg/VB_b1uDOfDI/AAAAAAAADlQ/BfbLqr4NkBY/s1600/Butterflies.jpg)
Finding the love amongst the butterflies...
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The projecting game (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/11/the-projecting-game.html)
6 November 2014, 8:42 pm
Where has this month gone?? The autumn seems to be disappearing at an alarming rate and once again we are on the home straight to finishing off another year.
There is a reason the blog has been quiet these past weeks. I have been focusing all my time and energy into a single project. While in some respects, it is probably the hardest route I've ever tried, it has been immensely frustrating doing battle with this one. I'm not going to rant on about 'conditions' and the reasons of how climbing in the UK can be so tricky, but for me it is a route that requires everything to be so absolutely perfect in order to execute properly. Anything remotely out of cater can make the tenuous crux sequence go from feeling pretty solid to suddenly core busting hard!
The main issue we've been experiencing is freaking numb digits. The minute you bite down on those knife blades at the crux, every ounce of life and every drop of blood you had in them is instantly drained. The ability to feel the intricate rocks details beneath your finger ends becomes an impossible task. And there is nothing you can do about it.
If you could guarantee the right temperature and conditions every time you set off up the wall I am pretty confident that it might have gone by now and we'd be rolling in fish n chips and Bakewell tarts till Christmas!
Normally by this point in the year my attention has switched to the grit. Spending the short days pulling down on fat slopers, balancing up aretes and fiddling in crappy gear into marginal and dubious breaks. However we have been blessed with a longer sport season than usual this time around and the crags are still dry, offering those of us still keen to get our projects done. It isn't everyone's cup of tea, I realise that, but I want this one bad. I'm determined to keep throwing myself at it until it either goes or we find ourselves 6ft under in snow!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f8jOQmeysS4/VFvWzo-e_VI/AAAAAAAADlw/5-JR7GdKFzg/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-f8jOQmeysS4/VFvWzo-e_VI/AAAAAAAADlw/5-JR7GdKFzg/s1600/Ethan_Kaabah.jpg)
It has been a pretty testing time these last weeks. I have to admit that the daily commute to the crag,
the usual warmup and having to deal with constantly changing weather, not to mention the countless lobs down the face after another failed redpoint, have definitely started to affect me mentally. One day it will seem within my grasp and then the next it'll go back to feeling a million miles away.
That being said my psyche is at an all time high for it. Small progress and micro gains continue with each day on the route. Even just getting up to my highpoint and feeling less pumped and more focused but yet still falling on the same section feels like another step forward on the road to those chains.
Climbing with Ryan Pasquill has been a huge benefit and he has taught me to not beat myself up too much and how to reduce the stress levels when things don't seem to be going my way. We are both on the same wagon. The redpoint wagon. Going through the same problems and emotions. Having someone to share that with is a good feeling and super encouraging!
I find what helps when things don't seem to be going well is to remind myself that this route is 8c+. It is up there with one of the hardest routes in the UK and I'm sure would make some 9a's in Europe seem a relative stroll in comparison... Sometimes it is all too easy to blame yourself and think that you are simply not good enough. When in actual fact these routes are bloody hard and we are pushing our bodies to the very limits of what they are capable of doing.
I want to try hard, climb the hardest routes and to be the best that I can be, and that is what keeps me coming back time after time and continues to drive me forward.
I have no doubt that it WILL go, eventually. To have something so hard and at your maximum limit to try and beast yourself on is hugely motivating for me. Getting home with your body totally, utterly wasted and beat up, knowing you gave it your all is a great feeling.
Today was a good day. Despite the freezing temperatures. Every burn now my body is stronger on the moves. One of these times everything will just slot into place. Just gotta be patient!
Man I love this game.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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FBO Returns for 2015! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/11/fbo-returns.html)
10 November 2014, 11:51 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mp1887Xk5K8/VGCemIbruqI/AAAAAAAADmA/hWEpXkJSg-s/s1600/foundry-banner-photo.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mp1887Xk5K8/VGCemIbruqI/AAAAAAAADmA/hWEpXkJSg-s/s1600/foundry-banner-photo.jpg)
F-B0-15
Following on from the big success of The Foundry Bouldering Open that ran back in February, it is once again returning in the New Year! Last time out was a huge amount of fun for all involved and I know that it definitely got me psyched on the whole comp scene again.
Next years event, to be held on the 7th February, promises to be bigger and better and hopefully it'll be another good weekend for The Foundry crew!
Check out the link below for everything you need to know about the day.
http://www.foundryclimbing.com/fbo15/
And to get you even more psyched and for a taster of what to expect take a look at the video below from Ben Pritchard that gives the low down on last time out!
Big thanks to The Foundry for hosting this great event again and to all the sponsors involved for their support. A full report of what went down at FBO-14 can be found here:
http://www.foundryclimbing.com/2014/02/12/foundry-bouldering-open-2014/
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5KTmhoroLzg/VGCl6ET6xGI/AAAAAAAADmQ/SNkdu3hgEZ8/s1600/FBO14-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5KTmhoroLzg/VGCl6ET6xGI/AAAAAAAADmQ/SNkdu3hgEZ8/s1600/FBO14-2.jpg) Get ready for the weird and whacky©PaulBennett
Hope to see as many of you there as possible!
Click here to register now and secure your place! (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/collections/events/products/f-bo-2014)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Letting go (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2014/12/letting-go.html)
21 December 2014, 7:38 pm
I've been trying to gather some thoughts together in my head for a blog update for a good few weeks now. Each time I came to type up the collection of ideas and jumble of words, I would sit staring at the blank white page on my laptop, without a clue of where to start or if it would even end up being remotely interesting to anyone. Eventually I'd give in and go make another pot of tea.
The end of the season didn't bring what I was hoping for and despite all the efforts and time invested, I had to walk away empty handed for probably the first time in my climbing life. This is what abject failure feels like is it?
Without wanting to sound big headed, what frustrates me more than anything is the fact that I know deep down that I should have nailed this thing. Yes it is hard, yes it would have been the hardest graded route I've ever done, but what was stopping me was not the fact I was too weak or just simply not fit enough. I think if that was the case I'd have been able to accept the whole situation much more freely and easier. It was simply down to factors that were completely outside of my control.
I tried everything in the book to keep the blood flowing through my little digits. My many belayers and partners will testify to how much time I spent experimenting with different methods. Laps, of Ben's Roof, dogging up to the crux, countless sprinting up and down the road, Pound Land hand warmers stuffed in my chalk bag. Even laps up Mecca before the red point go! Nothing seemed to work.
Luck would definitely play a part sometimes, maybe the sun would poke its face out and lift the air temp slightly or gently warm those tiny holds just as you approached the headwall, but in the end the weather or whatever you want to call it, soundly beat me.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-urORttJ8xrs/VJccpPEcFbI/AAAAAAAADnU/7W-YmeVUIpQ/s1600/IMG_0295.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-urORttJ8xrs/VJccpPEcFbI/AAAAAAAADnU/7W-YmeVUIpQ/s1600/IMG_0295.JPG)
After a couple of big breakthroughs and as I started to realise more and more that the route was actually a possibility I knew it was just going to be a case, as these things always are, of just getting everything to align perfectly together.
The first time the thought of the season ending and walking away with nothing entered my head, I started to panic and that is when the stress of it all really began to kick in. Nerves became a bigger issue with each session. Uncertainty and doubt can play havoc with your psyche. I wanted this thing so badly. I kept comparing it to where I was at last year when I was embroiled in another redpoint battle on the extension.
Time flew by at a crazy rate of knots, unlike anything I've known before, and even as November arrived and the first frosts started to appear, I still had faith that maybe, just maybe it would still go.
However I had to start to admit to myself that it might not happen this time and as the days flew past, at their crazy speeds, I gradually came to accept it. The route is going no where, it'll be there ready and waiting for me in the spring. Which when you think about it is only a few months away!
So even though I came away with no big tick, and occasionally it still hurts that it didn't happen I no longer view it as a failure in any way. I learnt so much about myself, about my climbing and what I am actually capable of. As well as gaining a whole new perspective and outlook on climbing in general. This sport is extremely addictive and despite the stress and the bad days it was still a hella lot of fun!
I hope that the whole experience has made me a better climber and that I'm wiser for it...
The stand out lesson for me though has to be learning to accept that sometimes, you really do just have suck it up and let go.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUYD8o4CN8I/VJcbfOB3WlI/AAAAAAAADnM/fFubpJChG0I/s1600/IMG_0297.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zUYD8o4CN8I/VJcbfOB3WlI/AAAAAAAADnM/fFubpJChG0I/s1600/IMG_0297.JPG)
It has all been said before by various rock gurus but climbing isn't all about the send. You can argue that the majority of the time it is but it is also about the journey we take to get to that point of pure heaven when we finally tick our projects. It's about the mental battles, the physical battles, the breakthrough days as well as the days where nothing seems to be going right. In the end you'll more than likely remember the journey you took to reach that finish line, rather than the actual moment of success.
A huge shoutout and thank you has to go out to all the folk that encouraged and helped me during the last few months. You all know who you are and I really appreciate each one that supported me on my quest!
It was so close I could virtually taste success, but if it wasn't a battle then it wouldn't be hard. And that is what I strive for in my climbing. To push myself to my absolute limits. Not just physically but mentally too. Kaabah certainly did that.
Right now it is all about Christmas for me. Enjoying some time chilling out, relaxing, hanging out with friends and eating lots of good food. The weather has been pretty shoddy for any full blown grit ventures just yet, although I did manage to squeeze in a quick ascent of Ben Moon's 'Full Power' (V11) a week or so back. Definitely feeling the bouldering vibe at the moment. It is a pleasant change of scene from the rigours of the red point. I have my eye on a couple things but we'll see how stuff goes and if the weather gods are kind to us...
In the mean time I'm slowly getting stuck into some training, keeping the fitness levels up before full training kicks in at the start of the New Year. Ready for a couple of trips that are in the pipeline and another all out assault on the Tor in the spring.
We've also been working on a couple of really cool video projects over the last few months which I hope to be able to share real soon. Pretty excited to see the final edits so keep an eye out for those.
I have to admit that I'm loving having some actual time off. I think it could be good for me! Waking up with no real plan in place for the day ahead has been pretty nice.
Anyway, thanks for checking in and for once again sticking with my ramblings for another year. Hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
See you at the crag :)
Oh and lastly... It appears my blog has been shortlisted for some kind of an award. It'd be great if you could follow the link below and give me a quick vote. :)
http://www.trespass.com/blog-awards-voting
Cheers ya'll
Ethan
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Comp scenes back! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/02/comp-scenes-back.html)
13 February 2015, 3:57 pm
First post of the year! Where did January go? Anyway here we are, on the cusp of spring (we hope) and most of us are looking forward to putting the winter behind us and moving on to warmer and longer days. The winter for me has been a bit of a let down so far, it promised good things at first but then sadly it has yet to work out how I imagined. But apart from the odd ascent here and there, the general climbing population in the UK has had the same difficulties this time around. Last winter was so stellar that it was always going to be hard to match up to, let alone beat!
Anyway, last weekend saw the return of the comp scene for me. It was time again for F-BO15. This event last year was a huge success and I was major psyched to hear that it would be back again. I came agonisingly and surprisingly close last time to winning, only to be pipped to the title by the smallest of margins. So maybe this time around could make up for that...
Once again The Foundry put on a really great day for everybody, with a plenty of folk rocking up to do battle with the infamous 'Wave' and enough cake to feed half of Sheffield.
It was cool to see a mix of both climbing veterans and strong, up and coming youngsters, all competing together on some rather whacky problems.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTgPwjNpX9c/VN3UCyr-6CI/AAAAAAAADnw/PTcYTCj-SHs/s1600/F-BO15_010_DSC_8523.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTgPwjNpX9c/VN3UCyr-6CI/AAAAAAAADnw/PTcYTCj-SHs/s1600/F-BO15_010_DSC_8523.jpg) Mens Problem 2©Keith Sharples
Qualification went well for me and by lunchtime I had finished which left plenty of time to chill, grab some lunch and be glad that I had arrived early before the holds gradually turned to mush with excessive chalk and grease.
The results were announced and I was pleased to have qualified for the final again in 3rd place alongside a bunch of very strong and good friends. Cailean Harker, Ben Moon, Sam Whittaker, Mike Adams and Stu Littlefair. It was lining up to be an interesting affair!
There is an excellent report up already over on The Foundry website of how everything eventually panned out, but one thing I will say is that the route setters certainly got their creative juices flowing and cooked up a selection of bizarre and sometimes baffling problems for us all. There was a bit of everything from hand jamming and techy wierdness, to swinging Lapis balls and then some good old fashioned pure 'wave' power to finish us all off.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qpD75BxzT3c/VN4ZKEq1baI/AAAAAAAADoA/0G6nxzPkO2M/s1600/F-BO15_017_DSC_8594.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qpD75BxzT3c/VN4ZKEq1baI/AAAAAAAADoA/0G6nxzPkO2M/s1600/F-BO15_017_DSC_8594.jpg)Clear inspiration from the recent 'BIFF' on Mens 3©Keith Sharples
The eventual winners were Ben Moon, who really turned up the gas and showed us how its done, and Ella Russell for the women. The new King and Queen of The Wave! So big congrats to those guys and throughly deserved!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hCbcXAlL0w/VN4aExBuRLI/AAAAAAAADoI/wBYVq0NXeBI/s1600/10410562_778779975543768_7754309925277892972_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hCbcXAlL0w/VN4aExBuRLI/AAAAAAAADoI/wBYVq0NXeBI/s1600/10410562_778779975543768_7754309925277892972_n.jpg)
Check out a more detailed report here:
http://www.foundryclimbing.com/2015/02/10/f-bo15-foundry-bouldering-open-2015/
I ended up finishing the day in 6th place, so while not quite as good a performance as last time out I'm still really pleased and it was another throughly enjoyable day out, full of banter and good laughs. Our crew did end up winning the team event however so that was a bonus! Nice one guys.
Time to step up the training now and get prepared for The CWIF, which is less than 4 weeks away now! These things come around so quickly eh. Psyched!
Big thanks to all the sponsors who helped make the event possible. Mammut, Five Ten, Moon Climbing (https://www.blogger.com/null), The Clinic (https://www.blogger.com/null), Bleaustone/Lapis/Axis (https://www.blogger.com/null), Steepedge (https://www.blogger.com/null), StoneSmith (https://www.blogger.com/null)and CragX Climbing Shop. Already looking forward to the next one! (https://www.blogger.com/null)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HKWo6A8Z4RQ/VN4ckIXBWyI/AAAAAAAADoU/9okSGqp6Xps/s1600/10562671_804171912989695_318408330996691152_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HKWo6A8Z4RQ/VN4ckIXBWyI/AAAAAAAADoU/9okSGqp6Xps/s1600/10562671_804171912989695_318408330996691152_o.jpg) Big guns Whittaker takes the swing
As I sit here writing this all I can hear is the rain lashing it down on my skylight. It is hardly looking inspriring for the weekend but with a bit of luck something might be dry... I don't really care what, just want to climb outside!
Have a good weekend everyone, and hope you manage to get something done.
If not, drink plenty of tea and treat yourself!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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CWIF (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/03/cwif.html)
15 March 2015, 3:07 pm
Hard to believe another year has passed by and the CWIF was back for the 9th time! Whats even more hard to believe is that it has already been a week since it was all kicking off The Works.
I was mega keen to get involved again with this comp as it is always a great weekend of hanging out with friends, meeting new people and just generally having a real good time of it. Last year was the first time I'd entered in around 3 years and with it I achieved my best result yet, amongst a very very strong field, narrowly missing out on the semi finals.
This year I was determined to try and step it up a notch and try to get through to Sunday when all the action really starts to heat up. Qualifiers went fairly well for me, with a good mix of weird, powerful, techy and utter nails problems that the route setters had drummed up. I handed my scorecard in with a total of 248 points and figured that might just about enough to get me through to the next round.
All that was left to do now wait for the afternoon session to finish and then keep an eye out for the results coming in...
It was super close but later that evening I got the word that I had JUST snuck into the semi-finals by the skin of me teeth! I was buzzing and quickly headed off to bed for an early night hoping to feel refreshed and fired up the next day.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ge26QoRUzc/VQR6qL9mzNI/AAAAAAAADpM/-4A_mD0tRCs/s1600/11040415_10153114602260149_953515801_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ge26QoRUzc/VQR6qL9mzNI/AAAAAAAADpM/-4A_mD0tRCs/s1600/11040415_10153114602260149_953515801_o.jpg) ©DomWorrall
I will try to not go into too much detail with how Sunday panned out but after arriving at The Works and a slow, steady warm up we were all ushered into isolation ready to begin climbing at midday. By qualifying in last place it meant that I'd be first out on the comp wall. Something that can be an advantage but also a little nerve wracking at the same time! I fully expected the problems to be pretty tough and definitely made sure to be prepared for the bizarre and whacky.
They needed to be tough though considering the strong field that had made it through. Megos, Barrans, Jorg, Tito, the uber strong Swiss brothers, just to mention a few. The setters had to split us up some how, with the top 6 making it through to the evenings final.
Bloc 1 for me could not have gone any better, with a super quick and fairly straight forward flash. Phew. Nerves settled and I instantly felt at ease. I had topped a problem and anything else that happened now would just be a bonus from my perspective.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WohnKUxCHeg/VQSucJ7ZosI/AAAAAAAADpo/f2hBIHweo-o/s1600/10968888_10153114601155149_12594575_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WohnKUxCHeg/VQSucJ7ZosI/AAAAAAAADpo/f2hBIHweo-o/s1600/10968888_10153114601155149_12594575_o.jpg) Men's Problem 1©DomWorrall
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qGHybYFUFjA/VQWW0bcvBZI/AAAAAAAADqM/o8a0J57Rp5k/s1600/11065519_10153114602420149_544847799_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qGHybYFUFjA/VQWW0bcvBZI/AAAAAAAADqM/o8a0J57Rp5k/s1600/11065519_10153114602420149_544847799_o.jpg) ©DomWorrall
The remaining 3 blocs were definitely a step up and did the job of splitting the group up nicely. Two techy power problems up the middle of the comp wall, with problem number 4 being a nightmare balancing act up the far slab. Suffice to say only one us managed to get the top on this. Desperate!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-shK5V6LLi8s/VQWaTkGu9zI/AAAAAAAADqk/E9vmMGDiqj4/s1600/_MG_2566.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-shK5V6LLi8s/VQWaTkGu9zI/AAAAAAAADqk/E9vmMGDiqj4/s1600/_MG_2566.jpg) The slab. ©DomWorrall
It was all over so quickly and I was then able to sit back and enjoy watching everyone else giving it their all. Before getting slightly stuffed on burgers from the famous free BBQ!
In the end I came home with 11th place which I'm pretty stoked about! I will be the first to say that I am definitely not a comp climber but I do like to dabble every now and then and this has for sure spurred me on to enter some more comps in the future!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_WBRMn49OME/VQR-W2oiXcI/AAAAAAAADpY/3xl9hJwzTuE/s1600/10497278_10152743253421586_6760644858356771400_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_WBRMn49OME/VQR-W2oiXcI/AAAAAAAADpY/3xl9hJwzTuE/s1600/10497278_10152743253421586_6760644858356771400_o.jpg)©AlexMessenger
Those that watched the final were treated to some serious take down action in the form of eventual men's winner and german powerhouse Alex Megos with Shauna Coxsey leading the way for the women and defending her title in the process. Congrats to those guys!
Massive thanks and big up once again to The Climbing Works who absolutely nailed the whole thing, as they always do! It is so great that these guys are prepared to go to so much effort and lengths to put on such a cool event for us all to enjoy. Already hugely looking forward to next year, especially as it'll be the 10th year! I am sure they have big things planned...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qs4OvWF4ce4/VQWUYFd188I/AAAAAAAADqA/AKgpNadKoP0/s1600/11043388_974364519242755_2004585740378464702_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qs4OvWF4ce4/VQWUYFd188I/AAAAAAAADqA/AKgpNadKoP0/s1600/11043388_974364519242755_2004585740378464702_o.jpg)The one and only! On hand to give out the prizes!©DomWorrall
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_lNdYXKiWyM/VQWbJ4Ch-8I/AAAAAAAADqs/9RiYjGVxwuw/s1600/IMG_20150308_152224.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_lNdYXKiWyM/VQWbJ4Ch-8I/AAAAAAAADqs/9RiYjGVxwuw/s1600/IMG_20150308_152224.jpg)Meat meat meat!
Big thanks also to Dom Worrall (http://domworrall.co.uk/) and Alex Messenger (https://www.facebook.com/alexmessengerphoto?ref=ts&fref=ts) for the sick shots. Cheers boys!
Check out www.domworrall.co.uk/dom/cwifsunday (http://www.domworrall.co.uk/dom/cwifsunday) for a full blown gallery of all the action!
In other news, I am flying out to Spain this Thursday. Heading to the pocket, sun kissed limestone heaven of Margalef to be exact! It'll no doubt surprise many that I have, rather embarrassingly, never actually stepped foot into Spain before... I am beyond psyched to finally get the chance to climb over there and I really cannot wait to get stuck into some deep mono action!
Flicking through the various guidebooks I have been blown away by the amount of routes and crags on offer within such a confined area. My tick list is huge but to be honest I am just massively looking forward to getting away from the UK, heading out and having a fun time climbing somewhere totally new and different. I am confident its gonna be rad!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zys99HYuPOc/VQWYpGRGlBI/AAAAAAAADqY/R9b0XVRFcFY/s1600/margalef.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zys99HYuPOc/VQWYpGRGlBI/AAAAAAAADqY/R9b0XVRFcFY/s1600/margalef.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Spain! Coffee, pockets and Chorizo. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/04/spain-coffee-pockets-and-chorizo.html)
1 April 2015, 7:17 pm
Just over 48 hours ago I was sat by the side of the road, sunnies out, vest on and basking in glorious 20 degree Spanish sunshine. Now I'm rugged up back home, down jacket firmly fastened up and listening to the wind and rain completely lash it down outside. Quite the change and a sudden shock to the system!
Anyway, that aside, Espanya or more specifically Catalonia, is finally ticked off of my places to visit. I have been to the mecca of sport climbing in Europe, albeit only a small sector, and have seen the light! I have always known climbing abroad is where it is at, but this trip has opened my eyes even further to just how much there is to do out there.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1hmPYwGYpY/VRwrC-E-VmI/AAAAAAAADuE/FxRoUg_Am1Y/s1600/IMG_0210.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z1hmPYwGYpY/VRwrC-E-VmI/AAAAAAAADuE/FxRoUg_Am1Y/s1600/IMG_0210.JPG)
Margalef is a dreamland and a true climbers paradise. The amount of rock is on an unprecedented scale and situated in some of the most beautiful countryside you could wish for. It was everything that I imagined and I already cannot wait to get back.
I headed out with my friend Karl Smith who runs the only climbing wall over in Shropshire, Newport Rock (http://www.newportrock.com/), and has many years of climbing experience all around the world. I was super grateful to him for offering to come out with me and essentially be my belay gun and chauffeur for a week!
It did almost turn into a disaster however with our visit very unluckily coinciding with some of the worst and most torrential weather on Spanish record. For the first 5 days of our trip it did nothing but rain and rain and rain some more. I could have literally broken down and cried. For the whole winter in the UK I had put up with this nonsense and had finally gotten the chance to escape to what should have been 'guaranteed' wall to wall sunshine but instead been firmly hit, bang in the face with the very thing we were trying to get away from. Unbelievable. Out of the frying pan into the fire so to speak.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3iHyqrYP-Y/VRwiIQSVtTI/AAAAAAAADsY/s_QAYDSmaW4/s1600/IMG_20150321_171926.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3iHyqrYP-Y/VRwiIQSVtTI/AAAAAAAADsY/s_QAYDSmaW4/s1600/IMG_20150321_171926.jpg)Not what we had in mind...
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7hmZ5zdef3E/VRws5grti8I/AAAAAAAADuQ/5xSgM6SbVxw/s1600/IMG_0192.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7hmZ5zdef3E/VRws5grti8I/AAAAAAAADuQ/5xSgM6SbVxw/s1600/IMG_0192.JPG)All that rock, all those amazing routes I had heard about and wanted to climb for so long were suddenly right on the doorstep but they had turned into full raging waterfalls. To say it was torturous would have been putting it extremely lightly.
We tried to keep the faith as best we could. Drinking endless amounts of coffee and tea, visiting cafes, eating nice food and spending a lot of the down time on the Internet.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vCY7F_qoBjs/VRwiKPIk11I/AAAAAAAADsg/NG_8EBmJNOA/s1600/IMG_20150325_123005.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vCY7F_qoBjs/VRwiKPIk11I/AAAAAAAADsg/NG_8EBmJNOA/s1600/IMG_20150325_123005.jpg)Spanish lunch! Muy Bien.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4DJcLNd2P2o/VRwiKjyCd8I/AAAAAAAADsk/Zr_VKBnqDAo/s1600/IMG_20150323_211545.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4DJcLNd2P2o/VRwiKjyCd8I/AAAAAAAADsk/Zr_VKBnqDAo/s1600/IMG_20150323_211545.jpg)
Despite all the dampness we did still manage to get out most days and search out the odd piece of dry rock. In fact the very first day the trip could not have gotten off to a better start. We quested up to the beautiful crag of Espadelles, nicked named the 'mini Ceuse' which is not hard to see why! The crag sits proudly, high above the valley below and offers some truly stunning routes up and down the grades. I felt like a kid in a candy shop, my eyes flicking from one sector of rock to the next. Scanning through the guidebook, locating all the must do routes.
It was a tad chilly but I decided to dive straight in at the deep and quickly set off up a classic 8a, Transilvania. Within a few minutes I was clipping the chains on my very first 8a onsight. Not bad for a warm up and decent way to kick things off! Sadly that evening the bad weather came in and thus began a frustrating few days.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LAJ5TZc4OvQ/VRwn2kA_YxI/AAAAAAAADto/rz5NSQJ_Im0/s1600/2015-04-01+18.11.13.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LAJ5TZc4OvQ/VRwn2kA_YxI/AAAAAAAADto/rz5NSQJ_Im0/s1600/2015-04-01+18.11.13.jpg) Moody afternoon spent wandering around the ancient city of Lleida.
We spent the first week staying at the pleasant retreat of Els Tres Pins. A small hotel situated in the centre of the village of Margalef itself. Having a solid roof over our heads, food cooked for you every night, free Wi-Fi and just somewhere to chill and hang out was pretty nice. Not that I don't enjoy dossing in a tent and sleeping bag but having that bit of luxury is a definite bonus.
For the last few days I moved just around the corner into the Refugio. The 'true climbers' hang out, the hub of the village and a constant hive of activity. To be honest I have to say that I enjoyed the scene here so so much more. Their super relaxed and friendly attitude, excellent modern and clean facilities, coupled with being surrounded by like-minded people virtually 24/7 makes for a brilliant vibe and atmosphere. You can go and leave when you wish, cook your own food and all for a seriously great price. I would highly recommend it to anyone. Check out their Facebook page here (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Alberg-El-Rac%C3%B3-De-La-Finestra/293230627459641?fref=ts) :) Thanks for a quality stay chaps, we'll be back! Gracias. ;)
Here I hooked up with Alex Barrows and Nic Duboust and spent the remaining days trekking around with them. Barrows is on a mission to climb his first 9a. The stunning Chris Sharma line of Era Vella up at La Catedral sector. Excited to hear that he is making good progress and I am confident that the lad will succeed! Venga youth!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kDLK9KYBC2Q/VRwnwkUkBDI/AAAAAAAADtQ/wfdb3-QeYyM/s1600/IMG_20150329_210102.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kDLK9KYBC2Q/VRwnwkUkBDI/AAAAAAAADtQ/wfdb3-QeYyM/s1600/IMG_20150329_210102.jpg) La Catedral!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AOQ4fJ4wU60/VRwiQYb-SXI/AAAAAAAADs4/cuVi5sZkMHU/s1600/IMG_20150328_111234.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AOQ4fJ4wU60/VRwiQYb-SXI/AAAAAAAADs4/cuVi5sZkMHU/s1600/IMG_20150328_111234.jpg) Barrows gives us the lowdown on the 9a breakfast...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yv6W4J7Z4A8/VRuhHc5M3RI/AAAAAAAADrU/zQC41lU5Rs4/s1600/10405656_756334271149272_842435174705703134_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yv6W4J7Z4A8/VRuhHc5M3RI/AAAAAAAADrU/zQC41lU5Rs4/s1600/10405656_756334271149272_842435174705703134_n.jpg)Cooking and food - my next biggest passion outside climbing!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIVtzQmTq6U/VRwo4MmF3KI/AAAAAAAADtw/uV6DqLFYttA/s1600/IMG_20150326_173312.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIVtzQmTq6U/VRwo4MmF3KI/AAAAAAAADtw/uV6DqLFYttA/s1600/IMG_20150326_173312.jpg)
Eventually the sun returned and boy did it feel good. I took my beanie off for probably the first time in about 5 months! Just laying out in the sunshine with that heat beaming down on your face was pure bliss and we quickly forgot the dark times experienced a few days prior.
I had written up a list of routes as long as my arm. Some I had wanted to try for years and others that had been recommended by various folk. I quickly realised that it was going to be an impossible mission, especially considering the dodgy conditions, to even get close to ticking half of them!
The ones I did manage to get through though were all absolute class and it would be tricky to single out any one of them. However at a push I would have to say that my two proudest sends would have to be the uber 'must do' and slightly cliche classic, Photo Shot and the mind blowingly good Sàtiva Patàtica.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6rkeFUtSrw/VRwiCVwpctI/AAAAAAAADsQ/GYA1BZWXMXM/s1600/IMG_20150321_212616.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6rkeFUtSrw/VRwiCVwpctI/AAAAAAAADsQ/GYA1BZWXMXM/s1600/IMG_20150321_212616.jpg) El Laboratori
The Lab is perhaps one of Margalefs most famous and recognisable sectors. This is the home of the short, the gnarly and the mono pulling rigs that many people would most associate with the area.
To get a quick sense of just how steep and intense this crag is then take a look at the rad video below of Iker Pou repeating the desperate Sharma route 'Demencia Senil' 9a+!
Photo Shot sits just to the left of this famous testpiece and was a route that I had dreamed about climbing for a long long. Seated firmly at the top of my tick list. The whole idea of climbing at a perfectly located roadside crag, on sinker pockets had appealed to me for years and I was itching to get involved.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AkUaa2JuBYE/VRu8Kzt9LjI/AAAAAAAADrk/Y_IN9RzuPfI/s1600/DSC_1185.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AkUaa2JuBYE/VRu8Kzt9LjI/AAAAAAAADrk/Y_IN9RzuPfI/s1600/DSC_1185.jpg) Easy to see where Photo Shot gets its name... Ben Heason showing the way here one winters day a few years back. ©Andrew Stripp
I'll admit that I had vague ambitions of attempting to give it a good flash go. I knew all the required beta and was fired up to execute. Sadly I ended up blowing it which was slightly frustrating as it could have quite easily gone the other way. However I sucked it up and boshed it out a few tries later. I lowered off into the middle of the road and sat there for a while enjoying the moment after finally realising my little dream.
Thanks to Andy Stripp (http://www.andrewstripp.com/) for the use of his cool photo of Ben!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SYDRkwdStYw/VRvEbnTBeCI/AAAAAAAADr8/WIkAjH34ItE/s1600/DSCF2896.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SYDRkwdStYw/VRvEbnTBeCI/AAAAAAAADr8/WIkAjH34ItE/s1600/DSCF2896.JPG)Sàtiva is entirely the opposite style of climbing. Being a long 30 metre, pumpy juggernaut fest up a perfect crag on pristine rock. Clipping the chains on this represented my second true onsight of an 8a sport climb and without a doubt one of my proudest and most memorable routes.
Below is a list of my best ascents from the week, while nothing too special or hard they were all brilliant and considering the rain I've come home fairly pleased with how it all went. Having not travelled abroad and visited many world class places as some people, these ascents have given me a tiny taster of just what I might be capable of in the future. The UK can be decent, but these foreign countries are where its at! Especially if you want to truly test your abilities and scale some fabulous formations of rock.
El Ball del Tríceps - 8b
Photo Shot - 8b
Transilvania - 8a (Onsight)
Sàtiva Patàtica - 8a (Onsight)
Dando Brea - 8a (Onsight)
Dr Feelgood - 8a (Flash)
Telemaster - 8a (2nd go)
Maligna - 7c+ (Onsight)
Aeroplastica - 7c+ (Flash)
La Corva de la Felicitat - 7c (Onsight)
Esquerre Espinazo - 7c (Flash)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6AitWXxWxBQ/VRvC1rFtAmI/AAAAAAAADr0/Py6wSZuBNSo/s1600/Sativa,+8a.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6AitWXxWxBQ/VRvC1rFtAmI/AAAAAAAADr0/Py6wSZuBNSo/s1600/Sativa,+8a.JPG)The final headwall of Sativa.©Alex Barrows
The Future
On my very last day I got to belay the future of British climbing. The young Josh Ibbertson. At only 10 years old he has already climbed 8a on a recent trip to Margalef over the winter period and with that became the youngest ever Brit to climb the grade by a good two year margin!
I watched him totally cruise up a short 7c at The Lab first go. Very very impressive to watch! It is great to see such a psyched family all climbing together and full of motivation for being in the outdoors.
Josh and his younger brother Jack are both ones to watch without a doubt. Their extensive knowledge of the climbing world and psyche is quite astounding for lads of such a young age.
Enjoy the rest of your two weeks in the sun guys and catch you back here soon!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ucWO8Gl2Ya8/VRr7UFeVXYI/AAAAAAAADrA/ARVo5lmZ_qA/s1600/11086939_10155378193110635_459933227_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ucWO8Gl2Ya8/VRr7UFeVXYI/AAAAAAAADrA/ARVo5lmZ_qA/s1600/11086939_10155378193110635_459933227_o.jpg)Josh cranking down hard on his first 8a, Innuendo up at Raco de les Espadelles©James Ibberston
It is so rewarding when you can plainly see that those improvements in your climbing come from a direct consequence of putting in all that time and training at the wall. I love training and pushing my body hard but I have to admit that sometimes it can be hard to find the motivation to bust out another lap of my circuits. Sometimes you really cannot be bothered to drive out in the bad weather on a cold blustery winters morning and spend the next foreseeable few hours pulling down on plastic on your own, when all you really want to be doing is climbing outside.
However, when the weather does finally improve and you do finally get to head outside or jet off on an adventure to foreign lands, it is all so worth it and you will thank yourself for that extra bit of effort you put in.
I kind of feel that personally I could have pushed the training a little harder this winter, but what is exciting for me is that if my climbing can improve by this much from the amount of hours I did actually put in... Then how much can it improve in the future, with maybe just another extra 10% of effort... Exciting times for sure and I am psyched to have finally been able to test myself and my abilities, however briefly, on a very small selection of some of Spain's classic routes.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-55VTJuNy3oA/VRwkBqOWp5I/AAAAAAAADtE/9PV71U7DxS0/s1600/IMG_20150329_100504.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-55VTJuNy3oA/VRwkBqOWp5I/AAAAAAAADtE/9PV71U7DxS0/s1600/IMG_20150329_100504.jpg)The harsh nature of Margalefs pockets begin to take their toll...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1XXryXcRUfo/VRwiPo1jqCI/AAAAAAAADsw/HZKCfWp5vTI/s1600/IMG_20150327_093125.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1XXryXcRUfo/VRwiPo1jqCI/AAAAAAAADsw/HZKCfWp5vTI/s1600/IMG_20150327_093125.jpg)
It would have been so very very easy to have stayed in bed Monday morning, had a leisurely breakfast in the sun and headed back out to the crag! Just one more day even. But you could keep on saying that forever and still not be content. Such is the way of this climbing life!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZA4h8dLwrHs/VRwnyRwqLiI/AAAAAAAADtY/OVBjU2gx8Bc/s1600/20150325_150907.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZA4h8dLwrHs/VRwnyRwqLiI/AAAAAAAADtY/OVBjU2gx8Bc/s1600/20150325_150907.jpg)
I'm stoked for the season ahead. Projects, more trips, seeing those gains, but most of all having fun! I had barely been back on home soil an hour before already looking at flights for my next adventure. We'll see where that takes me but fingers crossed it'll be soon!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8o_bpxare4/VRwvdrzJRZI/AAAAAAAADug/-RniJyiTxIY/s1600/Sativa.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g8o_bpxare4/VRwvdrzJRZI/AAAAAAAADug/-RniJyiTxIY/s1600/Sativa.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qUz7nlUfagQ/VRwpSZK_IWI/AAAAAAAADt4/7XZqmpcKXG0/s1600/IMG_20150330_100001.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qUz7nlUfagQ/VRwpSZK_IWI/AAAAAAAADt4/7XZqmpcKXG0/s1600/IMG_20150330_100001.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uI8jEi4irHg/VRwny6gPZ_I/AAAAAAAADtc/dm07AhOg30g/s1600/IMG_20150330_223033.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uI8jEi4irHg/VRwny6gPZ_I/AAAAAAAADtc/dm07AhOg30g/s1600/IMG_20150330_223033.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The 'Art' of Climbing (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/04/the-art-of-climbing.html)
10 April 2015, 10:31 am
I had an idea a couple of weeks ago to start running a series of 'guest style blogs'. I figured it would make for a nice change and provide a cool insight into other peoples climbing lives.
First up we have Karl Smith who shares with us a little about his passion for the world of painting. I've known Karl for a couple of years now, having route set on numerous occasions at his wall over in Shropshire. He was very quick off the mark in volunteering to join me, and give us the tour out in Margalef last month, which I was super grateful for.
Stashed away amongst his climbing gear was a small hoard of paints, pencils and paper and I was psyched to be able to watch him at work. It was mightly impressive seeing how quickly he could bring a few simple, quick sketches to life!
Drawing has always fascinated me from a very early age. I find it incredible what people can do with a just a pencil and blank piece of paper. I just wish I could do it myself!
Below you will find a showcase of just a small selection of some of Karls work over the years. He sure has been to some pretty stunning and fascinating places. Enjoy!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OmLfSZvSEKU/VSeRZpYZUhI/AAAAAAAADwo/d3tJGp49MWk/s1600/yr+wyddfa+summer.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OmLfSZvSEKU/VSeRZpYZUhI/AAAAAAAADwo/d3tJGp49MWk/s1600/yr+wyddfa+summer.jpg)
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How did you get into painting, and why this style?
Like many people I was successfully put off art by a bad teacher, but did a little in my early twenties before work got in the way. My dad was a watercolour painter, and a member of the Lake Artists. I watched him doing a lot of paintings, but that is pretty much the only form of instruction I’ve had. When he died seven years ago I inherited his studio contents, and thought that I would have another go at painting. I had masses of good quality paper, good brushes that were older than me, and tubes of paint in varying degrees of usability.
It was fairly inevitable that watercolour would be what I would try my hand at, given the materials I now had, plus the complete lack of knowledge of other types of painting such as oil or acrylic.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MYeCHR-rx7A/VSeWdcMw7FI/AAAAAAAADw4/KAUUIzVAg9A/s1600/IMG_0192.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MYeCHR-rx7A/VSeWdcMw7FI/AAAAAAAADw4/KAUUIzVAg9A/s1600/IMG_0192.JPG) My early stuff was terrible, but there was just enough- small sections or particular effects- in the paintings to keep me trying, and I have really just stumbled along from there, with the help of books and youtube videos. I keep wanting to try oils, but don’t really have the space to deal with what is quite a messy form of painting. At least with watercolour I can carry it in a sack quite easily wherever I am going.
I try to paint a range of subjects, but find I tend to get drawn to landscapes, particularly mountainous ones - not surprising given that is where I choose to spend most of my spare time.
If you had one place where you could go to paint...?
An easy one to answer! The Alps without a doubt, it has everything. I’ve been to lots of mountain ranges around the world, but the alpine landscape has fantastic architecture and farmed land as well as the peaks and glaciers. I remember how disappointed I was the first time I went to the Canadian Rockies and saw the emptiness and lack of human impact.
Fortunately, getting to the Alps is hardly the impossible dream, it just seems that my climbing trips over the last few years have been elsewhere by and large.
Is any of your work online?
I’m not good at online self-promotion, so mostly not. I did a blog of my trip to South Georgia and Patagonia a couple of years ago, which has paintings and sketches of the trip, including some of the Petzl Roc Trip venue at Piedra Parada: www.southernoceans.blogspot.co.uk (http://www.southernoceans.blogspot.co.uk/)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ClslkClv8kI/VSeMW2gOByI/AAAAAAAADu8/Fg_FohFqIKM/s1600/glyderau+new+year.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ClslkClv8kI/VSeMW2gOByI/AAAAAAAADu8/Fg_FohFqIKM/s1600/glyderau+new+year.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td] New Year’s day, yr Glyderau
This was during the last really heavy snowfall winter we had (3 winters ago?) and a brilliant start to the year. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0xGNZ6aZ_8/VSeLyQ7vIfI/AAAAAAAADu0/FDp4pDxt25o/s1600/yr+wyddfa+summer.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i0xGNZ6aZ_8/VSeLyQ7vIfI/AAAAAAAADu0/FDp4pDxt25o/s1600/yr+wyddfa+summer.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Summer evening, Snowdon.
I’d been working over in North Wales doing some guiding, and it was one of those fantastic warm evenings when the light was magical. I’d often thought of doing a painting from near the top of the road that goes up to Dinorwic from down by the lake, so headed off up there and did a quick sketch. I later did this large painting from the sketch.
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[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a1I9UhdLgy0/VSeN0I8UjwI/AAAAAAAADvk/OnYhoevewao/s1600/paintings+2+011.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-a1I9UhdLgy0/VSeN0I8UjwI/AAAAAAAADvk/OnYhoevewao/s1600/paintings+2+011.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Roches Moutonees, Cwm Idwal (pastel)
I love the shape of the glaciated outcrops around Ogwen- I hope to paint lots more of these in the future. This one is on the top of the slight ridge when you go from the shingle shore at Lyn Idwal down to Ogwen Cottage via the narrow quarry (whose name escapes me) [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H12aue7gjCo/VSeOFKzebpI/AAAAAAAADvs/R2Yc3qIa0AM/s1600/IMG_0750.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H12aue7gjCo/VSeOFKzebpI/AAAAAAAADvs/R2Yc3qIa0AM/s1600/IMG_0750.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]50 degrees South
Not a climbing-related one, but the emptiness of the southern Atlantic left a lasting impression. We were followed by various kinds of Albatross for the entire journey south to South Georgia. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eSztDtAbty0/VSeOcQNQV_I/AAAAAAAADv8/JtK_HY5BowI/s1600/paintings+2+007.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eSztDtAbty0/VSeOcQNQV_I/AAAAAAAADv8/JtK_HY5BowI/s1600/paintings+2+007.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hajar Mountains, Ras al Khaimah
I’ve done quite a few short contracts working in Ras al Khaimah over the last few years, and am quite attracted to the landscape. At first sight it is completely barren, but after a while you start to appreciate the occasional tree or date palm oasis and it certainly grows on you. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2SMhHeg6C9E/VSeO_IUvKlI/AAAAAAAADwM/pWZ1RFzp060/s1600/paintings+2+010.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2SMhHeg6C9E/VSeO_IUvKlI/AAAAAAAADwM/pWZ1RFzp060/s1600/paintings+2+010.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]North Gaulton Castle
It looks a bit more substantial from this view than from further north. I took a few days off and stayed up in Orkney after guiding a couple up the Old Man of Hoy- he proposed on the summit. Fortunately she said yes or the descent would have been uncomfortable. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v4DYHbu7J_Q/VSePZrwmnTI/AAAAAAAADwU/kGcYZZBtbQo/s1600/paintings+2+005.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v4DYHbu7J_Q/VSePZrwmnTI/AAAAAAAADwU/kGcYZZBtbQo/s1600/paintings+2+005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]No prizes for guessing this one! I tend to gravitate to this section of cliff when drawing rather than climbing. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AWgH6XdR-xs/VSeMoRh5dkI/AAAAAAAADvE/CQyRfIHYz6U/s1600/2012-04-09+stanage.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AWgH6XdR-xs/VSeMoRh5dkI/AAAAAAAADvE/CQyRfIHYz6U/s1600/2012-04-09+stanage.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stanage popular end
Easter this time, we were staying down at Litton and bumped into Zippy at the crag- neither of us were climbing but just happy to enjoy the snow. [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTrA5kX8umQ/VSeM6JdBkfI/AAAAAAAADvM/NaBmXA2ivkg/s1600/paintings+2+001.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BTrA5kX8umQ/VSeM6JdBkfI/AAAAAAAADvM/NaBmXA2ivkg/s1600/paintings+2+001.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Wadi Rum
This is actually a view from high up on Inshallah Factor, where it does the long traverse left to the exit chimneys. I wanted to capture the haziness of the distant towers rather than focus on detail too much. I climbed this with Andy Long so was able to relax and enjoy the scenery knowing I was in safe hands! [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JGfuG4UWK6g/VSeNaB4byKI/AAAAAAAADvU/vP6LYmXV1Sk/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JGfuG4UWK6g/VSeNaB4byKI/AAAAAAAADvU/vP6LYmXV1Sk/s1600/IMG_0786.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Unnamed Peak, King Haakon Bay, South Georgia
Unnamed, and probably unclimbed as well. The number of spectacular peaks is quite incredible- literally the whole length of the island. It’s a pity it’s so difficult to get to. [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6Bfmm7Qdb4/VSeNqR21qJI/AAAAAAAADvc/GcC8CpthD4g/s1600/paintings+2+006.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-K6Bfmm7Qdb4/VSeNqR21qJI/AAAAAAAADvc/GcC8CpthD4g/s1600/paintings+2+006.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The former refuge, Siurana
This was where we stayed when we first climbed here many years ago- the perfect location with bouldering traverse in the dining room. Painted on a rest day during a trip with Simon Lee and Robin Barker-I was recovering from broken ribs at the time after slipping whilst out painting and falling onto the plywood sketchboard I was carrying. [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g0NF-nOj1ns/VSeQ9qwmImI/AAAAAAAADwg/jIEU-ZmNJCg/s1600/paintings+2+008.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g0NF-nOj1ns/VSeQ9qwmImI/AAAAAAAADwg/jIEU-ZmNJCg/s1600/paintings+2+008.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Britain’s most impressive piece of unclimbed rock. Overhanging, solid rock, several hundred feet high and in an amazing position. It’s crying out for someone like Steve McClure to visit! [/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DZfys26cN-w/VSeOu_wb6XI/AAAAAAAADwE/A844txdmmoE/s1600/paintings+2+003.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DZfys26cN-w/VSeOu_wb6XI/AAAAAAAADwE/A844txdmmoE/s1600/paintings+2+003.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lastly, no prizes for this one either! Quite early in the season, and the path round to the back of the towers was closed by avalanche. [/td][/tr]
[/table]
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Now that is very cool stuff. A nice hobby to take along for rest days :2thumbsup:
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A little Yorkshire love (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/04/a-little-yorkshire-love.html)
17 April 2015, 2:06 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZuhTB4uaB0/VTAHfkSbRtI/AAAAAAAADxU/ddKEyqLMXow/s1600/Overnight+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lZuhTB4uaB0/VTAHfkSbRtI/AAAAAAAADxU/ddKEyqLMXow/s1600/Overnight+2.jpg)
Last week I paid a long overdue trip back to Yorkshire. Malham was calling, we'd heard it was dry, I needed another break from the Peak and the weather was looking perfect for a couple days of camping.
I love Yorkshire and always look forward to going. It is a shame that for us it is slightly too far for a day trip which is why we don't visit as often as I'd like. However it is finally starting to dawn on me that it is somewhere I desperately need to put more effort into. There are just so many routes, fresh rock and fresh new moves to go at that the idea of missing out is simply too hard to ignore.
The forecast looked to be a scorcher but we journeyed up regardless, full of psyche and energy. My Dad was just as keen to make the trip as was JC so we packed the car and bombed it northwards!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8W2py4s-3Ps/VTAI7bAA4ZI/AAAAAAAADxg/L1tjI0rbzvc/s1600/Supercool+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8W2py4s-3Ps/VTAI7bAA4ZI/AAAAAAAADxg/L1tjI0rbzvc/s1600/Supercool+3.jpg)
We ended up having two of the most glorious days of weather. Wall to wall sunshine with the most perfect base camp you could want right at the entrance to Gordale. This campsite is probably one of my most favourite places to stay. Super chilled, friendly and surrounded on all sides by beautiful, rolling Yorkshire hills.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GKfytZlU7fM/VTD90eVB4FI/AAAAAAAADx8/7Ut4dTQdPSY/s1600/Overnight+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GKfytZlU7fM/VTD90eVB4FI/AAAAAAAADx8/7Ut4dTQdPSY/s1600/Overnight+3.jpg)I came away happy to have busted out an ascent of one of the catwalks rights of passage, Overnight Sensation (8a+). I was agonisingly close to dispatching this on on my second go, all but for an extremely unfortunate and totally unexpected foot slip right at the top! Gutted I lowered off and called it a night, vowing to make an early start the following morning and hopefully beat the sun!
Fortunately it went down with ease, all before 9am and just in time as the suns rays were quickly on our tails. It was then back to the village for a pot of tea and to bask in the heat. Bliss.
It was inevitably too hot to climb at Malham during the day but thankfully we had the sanctuary of Gordale to retreat to where I had a quick go up Supercool. A stunning piece of rock, a real beauty of a line for sure. It is obvious why this forms part of the Triple Crown and I hope to return soon to finish the job on it!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehFEcZnHjXc/VTD93T1eazI/AAAAAAAADyE/EHz3gfs0jCI/s1600/Overnight+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ehFEcZnHjXc/VTD93T1eazI/AAAAAAAADyE/EHz3gfs0jCI/s1600/Overnight+4.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SXiZT4Sg04/VTD9Tz83N-I/AAAAAAAADx0/rU4vVP5Xa_Q/s1600/Supercool+4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_SXiZT4Sg04/VTD9Tz83N-I/AAAAAAAADx0/rU4vVP5Xa_Q/s1600/Supercool+4.jpg)
'Supercool'
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fV0t2l-v30/VTD96a3bGEI/AAAAAAAADyM/akz2a--y6Cc/s1600/Overnight.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_fV0t2l-v30/VTD96a3bGEI/AAAAAAAADyM/akz2a--y6Cc/s1600/Overnight.jpg)
Just briefly before signing off, below you will find a link to my very first published article which went live on UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/) a few days ago. It covers a topic that climbers are all too familiar with. The Redpoint.
The Art of Red-pointing:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=7273
Take a look if you haven't already and I trust that there will be something for everyone to think on. I've been incredibly pleased with the response my ramblings have been met with so far and I hope to do more writing like this in the future!
Cheers again for all your support folks!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Injuries, Cheese and Contentment (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/04/injuries-cheese-and-contentment.html)
21 April 2015, 1:51 pm
Here we have the second article in a series of guest blogs. Injuries are common in sports, maybe more so in climbing. They sadly come with the territory of pushing our bodies to their physical limits.
Below Ellie Pygall gives us a little insight into her recent injury crisis and lays out a few helpful tips, that those unlucky enough to aquire an injury, can do to pass on the downtime and hopefully turn something negative into something more positive.
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Injuries, Cheese and ContentmentBy Ellie Pygall
Since my first foray into the strange world of online writing... www.nectarclimbing.com/words/sex-barriers (http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/sex-barriers)... where I attempted to grapple with some of the issues of gender involvement in sport, it would appear that a misogynistic deity has struck me down with injury. First, my finger - resulting in being advised by the hand therapists to take three months off climbing. Now, I'm writing this sat in the A&E waiting room with a potential loose body in my elbow which crippled my arm last night and resulted in my long-suffering other half having to help pull my trousers up after I'd been to the loo. Oh...and we're supposed to be on holiday.
So...at the risk of being more cheesy than the brie that would be curdling on our dashboard if we had made it to Font, I feel that a piece on injuries - and gaining that difficult sense of perspective when you have experienced an injury - is rather topical. One of my personal barriers to overcome in this situation is a serious case of hypocrisy. I work as a physiotherapist, which essentially involves counselling people on injury or functional decline for 40hrs a week. I think that I know all the right things to say and do, but when the situation is reversed it feels very difficult to swallow my own carefully crafted nuggets of compassion. However, I believe that this is a common ailment...the old adage “it's easier to say than to do” springs to mind.
Any form of loss, including injury, generally results in us experiencing a chain of emotional states. This is the Kübler-Ross model, or the five stages of grief: denial, anger, bargaining, depression and finally acceptance. This sounds all too familiar. How do we push through these stages though, and break into the realms of acceptance, contentment and...is this pushing too far?...happiness?
Essentially, the situation is shit. This is a fact. No-one chooses to be injured. It's painful, functionally debilitating and can come with a host of other psychosocial issues: influence on jobs, relationships, social life, mood etc. etc. etc. But the show must go on, as I can't see a high BMI lady (or lad) singing anywhere. Over the last three months, my search for happiness and contentment has led me to (in no particular order):
Red wine
My road bike
Yoga (and my first ever headstand!!!)
Art
My walking boots
Studying Buddhism
More time with friends and family
Learning about permaculture
My kitchen (not merely for eating the peanut butter out the jar with a big spoon during low points) – tons of new recipes and ideas on nutrition.
I'm trying to think if there's anything I've discovered during this process that I can share with you now...so here are my top tips that I'm trying to stick to! (Health warning: if you have a cheese allergy then please handle with care. Also cannot guarantee free from nuts, chocolate or general wiffle-waffles).
1) Happiness comes from the inside
Even with all the wealth, belongings and power-to-weight ratio in the world, it is still possible to be a miserable git! Regardless of our situation, true happiness starts from within.
2) Take enjoyment from other people's achievements
It sometimes feels like the last thing you want to do when you can't join in, but going out to the crag or talking to friends and loved ones about their sporting achievements can make you feel genuinely great once you have the right head-space and have been able to shake off the green shackles of envy and resentment.
3) As one door closes, another opens
An injury can give you the chance to do all those other things you've been meaning to, but can't quite fit in when you spend every night of the week after work training. A friend actually said to me “sometimes I wish I had a non-serious finger injury or something so that I had a valid reason to take a rest from training”!! There is so much time in your week when you don't climb, and if you don't know how else to fill it...then taking a break from climbing to discover the answer is probably healthy for you too.
4) Time with friends and family
Enough said. Dose up on extra time now, because when your injury has resolved you'll want to be back training 24/7.
5) You have the power to change
You might think of yourself as bad at dealing with injuries - often impatient and frustrated. But that doesn't have to be you. Turn things on their head:
Be patient and positive:
Use the experience to learn more about your body. The injury will have happened for a reason. If it's an overuse injury, then consider how you will change your training and climbing. If it was an accident, is there anything that you could learn from it?
Instead of frustration, think motivation!
Channel your energy into whatever you are doing. If it is rehab, set yourself small, achievable goals. If it is another activity – fantastic, enjoy the refreshing change!
You can actually come out of this a better climber
Take the time to analyse how you climb. We all have bad habits or areas that we could work on. Why not use this time to do just that? As you are returning to climbing, you won't be climbing your hardest, so try to use this drop in grade to focus on technique. It won't be wasted time!
Finally, remember...
Looking forwards through injury seems long, but looking back at recovery seems short.
Try not to think of the end goal. Create smaller, achievable targets. Don't compare yourself to your pre-injury state. Enjoy every day.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ybfAwnstkQ/VTZHd8mpZEI/AAAAAAAADyg/99AeAwQx_E4/s1600/1956667_10152478519984797_5384882233402606261_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2ybfAwnstkQ/VTZHd8mpZEI/AAAAAAAADyg/99AeAwQx_E4/s1600/1956667_10152478519984797_5384882233402606261_o.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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One thing not mentioned here is having an injury in one area can often give your body time to heal all the other background injuries and complaints too. Especially for the chronic training fiends, where it often feels like you are walking some kind of slackline with injury just a step away. always be positive! :great:
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The Italian Job (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/04/the-italian-job.html)
30 April 2015, 1:51 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RYRI93oYfhA/VUEPZc4VifI/AAAAAAAADy4/oGrGAEAt2FQ/s1600/Profile+Picture+(2).jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RYRI93oYfhA/VUEPZc4VifI/AAAAAAAADy4/oGrGAEAt2FQ/s1600/Profile+Picture+(2).jpg)Guest blog number three and this time we have the uber strong Italian climber Marco Zanone. I meant Marco for the first time out in Ceuse last summer and we quickly became good friends.
I would have never have made it up two of best sends if it was not for his inch perfect beta! So cheers for that one buddy!
Since that trip, Marco has been in a serious rich vein of form ticking hard sport routes and world class boulder problems. Below is a brief account of a couple of his best days out from the winter.
Hope to hook up with you again soon man!
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What I’m going to talk about are the two days that have left a huge mark on my life forever.
On these two different days happened something that I had never experienced before, something that sometimes is not that easy to explain with words.
It was Saturday, January 31st when I was keeping in touch with my friends Gabri and Luca about what we’ll have done the day after. They were in Cresciano with some crazy friends that were in Ticino for a couple of days, the conditions were awesome so we planned to head back to Cresciano to join the crew again because we were sure that despite all, it would have been a good day.
I was keeping in my mind what I would like to try but when I was there I just followed the flow and the crew. I could have never known, but it turned out to be an awesome day, and by far the best of my life!
The crew that had gathered was insane. It composed of Gabri, Bazoo, Sbisi, Giulio Bertola, Davide Gaeta, Michelle and a whole bunch of other guys.
The first boulder I tried was “La pelle direct 8A+”, Bazoo explained to me the beta he used the day before and I eventually found myself at the top after around 30min of trying.Since I was there I figured on trying the left variant [8A] also, that is way more different to climb on and it definitely gave me more troubles than the original one.
After a little break I had a try from the start, the feet stayed, the fingers locked and I luckily ticked another one!
The day was still early so the crew split up. I moved with Bazoo and Davide to Jungle Book and Sbisi wanted to get “La Pelle left” since he was soo close.
Jungle book was under the sun’s heat, that was quite strong even in February, but the motivation was extremely high so we checked it out anyway.
Bazoo showed me the beta once again for the original sit start but it was so hard to have a good friction on the last slopy part of the problem when you come from the sit.
One attempt my both hands slipped off altogether and I dropped down onto the pad like a sand bag. Ahaha! My skin started to get worse and the finger tips were red but it eventually and rather thanksfully went down for Luca and me.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WMxP7rB2DvY/VUEQBbvOVeI/AAAAAAAADzA/PXzXjbcORUU/s1600/Le+Pilier+8a+Chironico.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WMxP7rB2DvY/VUEQBbvOVeI/AAAAAAAADzA/PXzXjbcORUU/s1600/Le+Pilier+8a+Chironico.jpg) Le Pilier, 8a | Chironico
For me the day could be called finished because 3 8A's in a day sounded pretty dope and I was definitely satisfied but the motivation of the whole crew dragged me in the right way so I was also able to finish off “La Nave va 7C+”, an awesome technical slopy edge, with crazy rock quality, I finally finished off with “Gecko 7C+”.
I guess I will remember this day for all of my life, because except the high quality and quantity of hard boulders I sent, that of course makes this day way more unique, I had so much fun and the energy we were all able to give one another was unbelievable.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0NVyD2WsQDM/VUEQJ7vnEAI/AAAAAAAADzI/Ic8PZ-34uCY/s1600/Conquistador+8a+.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0NVyD2WsQDM/VUEQJ7vnEAI/AAAAAAAADzI/Ic8PZ-34uCY/s1600/Conquistador+8a+.jpg) Conquistador, 8a+
The other perfect day that features this perfect winter season is about the highest point of my climbing lifethus far.
What I’m going to write about next is the result of all the hard work and hard training. The result of a lot of failures, falls and days spent under one single boulder or rather entire sessions spent trying to figure out just one single move.
Boogalagga is the result of all of this.
This line has always been the main project for me, from the beginning of the bouldering season in Ticino, in fact the first time on it was in December when I spent a couple ofdays in Chironico with my brother and Niky Ceria.
I did it starting from the second move to the top, that is not that hard at all, but if you fail to make everything perfectly you can definitely fall.
The boulder itself consists of one single move if you use the beta straight to the pocket (depends on the size) because the first move is damned hard, but it isnot all about strength, it requires perfect body positioning and exact coordination as well.
Everything for me had to be close to perfection for sending this beast, I mean, I had to be in a good shape, my skin had to be dry and regenerated and also the climbing conditions had to good.
I came closer and closer and every time I figured out a new foot beta for the first move because also a foot 2cm more on the right could make differences on doing the move or not.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r1PkKMEx590/VUEQOZArx7I/AAAAAAAADzQ/JhuDLQIqpBI/s1600/IMG_20150311_125746.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r1PkKMEx590/VUEQOZArx7I/AAAAAAAADzQ/JhuDLQIqpBI/s1600/IMG_20150311_125746.jpg)Boogalagga
The day that Andrea and Luca took down the problem I was super close and I quickly realized that I had also one chance to get it.
So three days later I came back. I felt strong in the head and ready to climb this one. In fact after a couples of tries I stuck the first move to the 2 finger pocket and I climbed all the way up.
It was something so incredible to be stood on the top of this boulder. A boulder that I had dreamed about for years and years.
Boogalagga can be called “THE LINE” because it is a tall and proud bloc that follows this awesome overhanging prow. The holds are insane and the movement is unique and after all is is an 8B boulder problem that for me marks the end of a cycle but at the same time signals a new beginning.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAZkYNiA5Bw/VUIi8TP6fXI/AAAAAAAADzo/WnU254fEAao/s1600/10606608_10154512712735635_8445547641168926829_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UAZkYNiA5Bw/VUIi8TP6fXI/AAAAAAAADzo/WnU254fEAao/s1600/10606608_10154512712735635_8445547641168926829_n.jpg)The Italian Job.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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A word from Montreal (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/05/a-word-from-montreal.html)
29 May 2015, 4:07 pm
I hope you folk have been enjoying these guest blogs of late. I was seriously pleased with just how many people were keen to share their stories and thoughts and I really appreicate everyone that has contributed so far.
This week we have a few words all the way from Montreal, Quebec. I met Corinne during my first visit to Ceuse back in 2011 and we instantly hit it off. She is a lot of fun and one of those people always psyched on climbing and life in general, and not such a shabby climber either!
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(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5CK_TIHqq3g/VWXDXGjxXoI/AAAAAAAAD0I/cl1-iqsP4nY/s640/1149456_528378175489_1755236590_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5CK_TIHqq3g/VWXDXGjxXoI/AAAAAAAAD0I/cl1-iqsP4nY/s1600/1149456_528378175489_1755236590_o.jpg)
Ethan asked me to write about a meaningful climbing experience; well climbing itself has been a great experience in my life this far. So here is my love letter to and about climbing, one of the loves of my life.
First of all, I am not what people call «a climber», despite my deep affection for climbing; I do not live out of my car, I am based in a city — in great northern French-Canadia, a.k.a. Montreal—, and my life does not revolve around climbing. Rather, climbing has taught me a new and simpler meaning of the word “happiness”.
When I started climbing a few people told me, half-jokingly, that I should beware of turning into nothing but a “grade-seeker”, that my life would «become unidirectional», that I would «lose my balance» or become «addicted», and I am assuming they meant that in a bad way. The fact is that climbing has helped me remain balanced.
I started studying medicine in 2009 and at that time I had no clue what climbing was. Ceuse and Everest meant the same to me. I enjoyed a simple life in the city with friends and family, I liked to go running in the park, go to the movies, visit museums and art galleries—hispter! Working and studying was the most important part of my life, though I somehow knew that it couldn’t be that way forever: school could easily get me stressed out and it became a major concern. I did not know what to aim for, and let’s be real, very few people would dare tell you what to expect in life other than to work the usual 9 to 5, make money, and take vacations once in a while. Which is totally fine with me really, I mean I am going to live like this for a while and decide what to change if I get bored, but I digress… Since I’m an anxious and performance-driven individual, med school made sense for me then. Ironic, as that was the part of myself I wanted to change.
In September 2009, I had a bike accident which fractured the left half of my face and left me with the after-effects of a concussion. I had an cosmetic surgery about a week after the accident so I never really had to deal with my «new disfigured face», but I could not go running anymore—any jump or step would hurt, and dealing with pain became a daily challenge. It became bearable over time, of course, but the concentration I used to have, that which is needed to stuy and focus on textbooks, took much longer to come back than anticipated. This did not help my school-related anxiety (!). I had to find a way to look at things differently.
Climbing came into my life in that setting. I was looking for a low impact physical activity, and swimming in a pool just would not cut it—and still hasn’t. A friend took me to the local climbing gym during spring 2010, and I found myself in Squamish for a week or two that same year. My first encounters with the lovely people of the worldwide climbing community happened at that time: individuals from all over the world travelling to share and practice their passion—how cool! During school time, going to the gym after classes or between crazy evening/day shifts was sometimes what helped me wake up in the morning, despite a deep lack of sleep or motivation. Let’s say that it quickly became a part of my routine. From then on, I was «cursed»: every vacation I had was spent climbing and discovering new areas in the world.
My point here is that climbing did not take me out of «real life», climbing is what made this «regular-everyday-normal» life enjoyable on a daily basis. Instead of the big ups and downs which come with being dedicated to a career, I became more grounded and started feeling joy from smaller but much more important things: I enjoyed every sip of beer we had with friends after a good climbing session, I enjoyed the simple life out camping in a new country, hearing stories of people, travellers from all over the world and, most of all, I enjoyed feeling my body moving in space and utterly screaming to me «hey! You’ve never done that move before! How fun!
I did not know what the real difference was between happiness and satisfaction before then, as silly as it sounds. When I achieve hard work-related goals, I definitely feel proud and satisfied, I feel like the energy I devote to my work is finally paying off. I feel like there is some sort of purpose, which gives meaning to what I do, which is cool… I might feel like a better person, but despite those achievements I realized that I was not happier. I might sleep better at night, but I’m not happier. Climbing helped me understand that. I can allow myself to «not give a fuck» about what I do when I climb. I can allow my brain to take a break, to wander around the lovely settings which climbing takes us to, or concentrate on my body moving, or to just stop thinking about «stuff». To actually stop thinking so much for once and just enjoy, without expectations, the free movement in space that is climbing. It also taught me patience, and it helped me to deal with the performance-related anxiety I mentioned previously.
It was these maturing thoughts which led me on the road for about a year in 2012-2013. I took some time off school and lived the good simple life. I left with a friend for a few months to the west coast of the US and Canada—in her Aztek, you know, that car that turns into a tent?— then traveled alone in southern US and finally Spain. As you can imagine, I had a blast. I still missed school and books and teachers—geek! However, the numerous discoveries I made about myself, about others, about how people interact, for instance, and the fact that I was so simply and deeply happy, were of course more than enough to keep me on the road all that time, and could have kept me on that path far longer.
So real life is where I live, and my non-climbing life is doing very well, and I feel proud and lucky; there are things I wouldn’t have had the opportunity to achieve whithout this much dedication. I do believe though that I am constantly missing the simple and pure happiness I feel while on a climbing trip—that is a bit of my «melancholy french side», my apologies; though this is also what makes me appreciate small everyday details, like the smell of a good coffee, a nice walk in the city under the sun, a tasty meal with friends, an unexpected conversation, etc.
This is what climbing has brought to my life, and for that I will be forever grateful.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hC97eXWkLuM/VWXDPawEBmI/AAAAAAAAD0A/FK6zfIZX60M/s640/10499601_10152394015624403_6432137742840226889_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hC97eXWkLuM/VWXDPawEBmI/AAAAAAAAD0A/FK6zfIZX60M/s1600/10499601_10152394015624403_6432137742840226889_o.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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+1
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Is Ethan walker the guy who used to be well built who now looks like a twig that hasn't eaten yet takes photos upon photos of devilish food like cream cakes having not eaten one for at least four years?
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He's the lazy/clever fucker that needs an online presence to appease his sponsors but can't be arsed to write his own blogs.
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Get in, good work if you can get it
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Perseverance, Insanity, Success (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/06/perseverance-insanity-success.html)
12 June 2015, 1:45 pm
I have the whole routine dialled now. It works like a well oiled machine. Wake up, breakfast, brew, chill for a couple hours, drive, another brew, warm up, walk, clips in, rest, warm up, redpoint, fall. This pattern has become all to familiar, almost to the point where I could do it all with my eyes shut.
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results."
Albert Einstein
It's funny, strange and some might argue totally insane, the lengths and stresses that we are prepared to go through to achieve success. What is even more bizarre is that everyone goes through the same thing when it comes to projecting. You have to really really want it, bend your mind to persevere and that is only really the tip of the iceberg.
This season I have approached Kabaah with a much more relaxed and chilled attitude. Last year the pressure really began to get to me and the whole process started to become a little tedious at times. This year however I’ve come out of the winter stronger, which probably helped, but also I did my best to just keep that pressure at bay as much as possible and try not to stress too much. Basically just enjoy the climbing, and enjoy feeling strong on the rock.
I found treating each session as just another training session super beneficial, even if I failed to reach my highpoint I knew my body was getting a decent workout and constantly getting fitter.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4n9T6DqUnpI/VXqMCNx-LSI/AAAAAAAAD1g/5Adc8k2ZC84/s640/GetInline-2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4n9T6DqUnpI/VXqMCNx-LSI/AAAAAAAAD1g/5Adc8k2ZC84/s1600/GetInline-2.jpg)
Rocking up early at the crag Saturday morning I was a bit apprehensive about the conditions. The wind was blowing a gale again and I began to wish we'd left it till later in the day. My warm up went well and the usual routine kicked in. After sorting the clips on the head wall I lowered down and almost immediately decided that it would probably be wise to wait until after lunch, when the sun came round and the air temperature rose slightly. My weather reading skills had gotten fairly decent by this point and I knew what signs to look out for.
However sitting in the cave, sheltering from the wind, my fingers were feeling good and my confidence started to grow that maybe it might be okay for a burn and almost without a second thought I was up throwing windmills and tying in under the route once more. The bottom went smooth as normal and was once again I shaking out at the rest before the crux. There was a good stiff breeze blowing across the wall and from there on everything just seemed to click.
With warm blood flowing through my fingers I grabbed the holds perfectly, place my feet perfectly, stuck the flick move and easily made my way into the top flake, shaking out between the moves. Suddenly my mind went crazy "You're gonna do this" and I realised this was my chance. I dug deep, real deep and boned down on the final two crimps with as much strength as I could muster. For a split second I had visions of dropping the move to the jug, but somehow managed to find that final bit of power and deep determination to make the final hard lunge and it was done.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhViJT4_Ig/VXqL6i82hRI/AAAAAAAAD1U/gSmmjSNOmuw/s640/GetInline-1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qWhViJT4_Ig/VXqL6i82hRI/AAAAAAAAD1U/gSmmjSNOmuw/s1600/GetInline-1.jpg) ©JonClark
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NrY-DXlaC1U/VXqMjbQMCOI/AAAAAAAAD1k/jT9-0EG7L-k/s640/GetInline.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NrY-DXlaC1U/VXqMjbQMCOI/AAAAAAAAD1k/jT9-0EG7L-k/s1600/GetInline.jpg) ©JonClark
It was certainly a battle, probably the biggest mental and psychological battle of my life. I have never felt my emotions run like they did as I clipped the chains. Almost to the point I felt on the verge of tears! Which may sound silly but it meant a lot to me, not because of achieving a new grade, although I’m pretty pleased with that too, but because the whole struggle was finally over. It has taken a lot out of me, to the point that I have really felt like there was something missing in my life over the last few months. It is kind of hard to put into words to be honest but to finally be over that finish line is a special feeling.
All those commutes to the crag, all those failed attempts, all that training over the winter, all those cold and wet morning drives to the wall to run laps on my circuits, and every press up and pull up had got me to this point, and it had ALL been totally worth it.
While it might all sound a bit cliché and philosophical, this route and process has definitely taught me a lot about myself and I feel I’ve grown as a climber. Maybe not in how hard I can push my body, but more how hard I can push my mind. It came close to breaking my mental limits for sure but I know now more than ever before how to deal with situations, such as bad conditions and those days when you just don’t feel up to it. And I’ve learnt more about having patience, controlling the emotions and how much pressure my head is capable of holding.
Waking up this morning though, knowing I never have to go through that particular routine again is an immense feeling. Until the next big project that is! But this chapter and almost drone like state of mind that I have been immersed in has now closed and I can sit here full of complete, utter relief with a big fat smile on my face.
It has probably done the rounds by now but if you still haven't seen the latest video from Jon Clark that features some of my attempts at Kaabah last autumn, along with some strong action from other Peak lime locals, then check it out below. Even if you've watched it already, it's worth another viewing!
Plenty of people have helped me over the last few months on this fun but often frustrating journey. But special thanks has to go out to Pete Clark and JC for all the moral support and time spent holding my ropes. Quite often Pete would come along to the crag just to offer some encouragement and his words were always a source of psyche when things were not going so well. I think it is extremely important to surround yourself with supportive, like minded and positive people in climbing. Pete is someone that certainly fits that bill!And of course a real big thank you again to my Dad for all of his belaying efforts and the countless hours spent hanging around while I rested between attempts. Without their help I'm sure it wouldn't have been possible, or at the very least 100% harder!
Since last Saturday I have had a whole tonne of messages from friends and folk all around the world which is rather mind blowing. The power of the Internet these days is quite staggering. It really means a heck of a lot and I just wanted to mention how much I appreciate it all.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AgnmlGA8Yxk/VXqVFNFgVpI/AAAAAAAAD10/za4M7qfUP48/s320/IMG_20150606_204006.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AgnmlGA8Yxk/VXqVFNFgVpI/AAAAAAAAD10/za4M7qfUP48/s1600/IMG_20150606_204006.jpg)Time to celebrate! Pizza night at The Walkers!
My focus is now completely on my trip to Rodellar at the end of the month. It is going to be crazy hot but to be honest I am really looking forward to soaking up some blue skies and warm Spanish sunshine and checking out another new place. The rock formations look on another scale, with fantastic arches of all shapes n sizes and routes running up them left, right and centre.I'll be heading out with the strong youth Buster Martin who is on the comeback trail after a while out of the climbing scene. This kid climbed 8c at 16! He is a very motivated, strong individual and I am hugely looking forward to teaming up and climbing with the lad.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2rCr9Cf1XnA/VXqXiw6DDzI/AAAAAAAAD2A/Ua1e31SSfNw/s640/14_Year+Planner.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2rCr9Cf1XnA/VXqXiw6DDzI/AAAAAAAAD2A/Ua1e31SSfNw/s1600/14_Year+Planner.jpg)Buster on his way to becoming the youngest Brit to climb 8c.Bat Route, Malham ©KeithSharples
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gf0S9Hg4XdI/VXrPuiiDHFI/AAAAAAAAD2M/jycjfse2u_c/s320/statement_ben_moon_cover_485px.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Gf0S9Hg4XdI/VXrPuiiDHFI/AAAAAAAAD2M/jycjfse2u_c/s1600/statement_ben_moon_cover_485px.jpg)This week has been huge in the climbing world to the point of it being hard to keep track of who's done what. The biggest news in the UK right now though is Ben Moon's ascent of Rainshadow at Malham. Incredible news that just made my weekend even more memorable. Climbing 9a, 25 years after doing the first ascent of Hubble, which is now recognised as the worlds first 9a, and almost at the age of 49, is in a whole league of its own. The words 'inspiring' and 'legend' are so often overused these days and their true meaning can be lost. However I think this achievement just about qualifies right...?
In no other sport would something like this be possible. I saw a comment on UKC which put it into context quite nicely, about how what Ben has achieved is the equivalent of Usain Bolt running a record time in the 100m in 2034 or someone like John McEnroe winning Wimbledon this year. It just emphasises something that we all know but even more so, particularly to non-climbers, that climbing really is such a unique sport. Exciting times!
I think Ben summed everything up perfectly on his blog (http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/2015/06/rainshadow-4th-ascent/) with the following message:
"Life is very precious, live healthy, train hard, climb harder."
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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5.10 Verdon Review (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/06/510-verdon-review.html)
21 June 2015, 2:58 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dYICWs63XvE/VYNDFmTABsI/AAAAAAAAD3A/jnnzQe2Q8jk/s320/GetInline-3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dYICWs63XvE/VYNDFmTABsI/AAAAAAAAD3A/jnnzQe2Q8jk/s1600/GetInline-3.jpg)If you are still mourning the loss of the famous 'Whites' then I think we have found the solution for you. Enter the Verdon.
Ever since I first picked a pair of these up to test a few weeks back I have been incredibly impressed by their all round performance. It took one route to 'bed' them in but to be honest they really do have that 'out-of-the-box comfort' feel.
There were a lot of upset people in the UK when the White Anazasi were discontinued last year. People all over were resorting to stock piling as many pairs as they could, while others accepted the situation and started the transition to the new style Pinks.
Here is what the guys at Five Ten (http://fiveten.com/) have to say about their latest creation:
This asymmetric climbing shoe is designed for superior edging with out-of-the-box comfort. We accomplish this by constructing the shoe in a new way. A molded thermoplastic midsole fills in the dead space of the natural curves of the foot for a more precise fit. They lined the leather upper with Clarino, a premium synthetic material that doesn't pill and then we perforated the tongue to enhance breathability.
Key Features:
- Stealth C4 rubber
- Stiff mid-sole
- Thermoplastic and molded EVA midsole
- Lace closure
Good for precision edging, steep pocketed faces.
Talking to a few of the dedicated limestone fanatics throughout the UK, many felt that the new pink lacked that extra bit of stiffness that enables you to really stand on up on those super small, micro edges.he
So after being informed that the Verdon had been built with firm stiffness throughout the mid-sole, in mind, I was super keen to put them to the test. And at what better place but the home of tiny edges. Raven Tor.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IdCZT4zsBxk/VYNAP7ZyNhI/AAAAAAAAD20/KKEHhhKB_zM/s640/GetInline-4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IdCZT4zsBxk/VYNAP7ZyNhI/AAAAAAAAD20/KKEHhhKB_zM/s1600/GetInline-4.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Verdon excels on microscopic, credit card thin edges.[/td][/tr]
[/table]What particularly intrigued me even more was the ever so slight down turn nature of the shoe. This coupled with the so called 'thermoplastic midsole' could have a lot of potential, particularly for the project I was working on and I could not wait to give them a run out.
“C4 rubber allows climbers to stick to barely-there edges, lock into smears on microscopic nubbins and cruise up technical terrain with unparallelled confidence in their footwork.”
They certainly lived up to their billing. My project suddenly felt remarkably easier and made Mecca feel the easiest it ever has. I was quite amazed at just how much of a difference they made and straight out the box too. Usually with brand new shoes you'll find your feet popping off every verse end as the rubber molds around your feet and becomes supple, but not so with these.
The solid fit, stiffness and sensitivity allow you to really push and use a serious amount of power in your feet to propel you upwards. While their superior edging capabilities, that really do excel on microscopic holds, mean that more of your body weight is taken off your arms and transferred onto your feet, meaning you grip less, thus you are less pumped.
I have yet to try them on other rock types, for example the grit, but for routes that require precise, accurate and technical footwork then these are now my go to shoe. The perfect tool for the job, they manage to make even smallest of footholds feel like virtual ledges plus they come in a rather snazzy shade of 'peakcock' (for the fashion conscious amongst us)
The snug and tight fit of the heel is another big positive about the shoe. Dead space is totally eliminated so you can really lock them into those heel hooks, know that they are going to stay put and not slip out due to excess bagginess.
Obviously a number of factors allowed me to climb Kabaah in the end, but the Verdon played a massive part and they without a doubt made a significant difference to how the route felt. I was psyched to hear that Pete Whittaker also wore them for his ascent of the route too a few days prior.
I'll be making sure they are packed in my bag for my upcoming trip to Rodellar next week and will report back on how they perform out there...
I really think these new kicks are something a bit special and firmly believe they are lining up to be a big hit, so keep your eyes out for them hitting the shelves this coming autumn. Hopefully just in time for the drop in temps and providing you with the perfect tool for sending your projects.
They certainly helped me send mine!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ezxHRnijrU0/VYNGW4RGdAI/AAAAAAAAD3U/FHEfNK7bK9A/s640/GetInline-5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ezxHRnijrU0/VYNGW4RGdAI/AAAAAAAAD3U/FHEfNK7bK9A/s1600/GetInline-5.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Thanks for the review.
When will these be out? I'm thinking of buying some new stiff shoes for redpoints but will just buy some instinct laces if it's going to be a while!
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"Peakcock"
Haha!
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I really hope they are as good as the Whites, I can't take this as a review though as Ethan is sponsored by Five-Ten is he not? I'm sure Cillit Bang is well good but I'm not gunna take Barry Scott's word on it.
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I've never understood who would place much weight on gear 'reviews' that sponsored climbers put on their blogs.
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I think sometimes you have to have some faith? I mean Alex, you always sing the praises of the Scarpa shoes you were and presumably you wouldn't wear them if they were shit, just because you're sponsored?
I wouldn't have got on with the whites because I like a downturn on the big toe area, even if it's slight. I've love to not have to use the shit Vibram rubber that are on my Scarpa VS's too...
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Alright George ;D
I don't for one second think Ethan is trying to con me here just that it can't be a full review without looking at the negatives (if there are any). Apologies to Ethan if he's just super buzzed for these shoes and can't see anything to critique, pretty sure he could've done kabaah in Whites though...
/bitter
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My logic is along the following lines: the kind of person who writes reviews for their sponsors is the kind of person who like to play the game. The kind of person who likes to play the game is not the kind of person to give an honest appraisal of their sponsors gear in a public manner if they didn't like it. Maybe I'm just a cynical cunt.
Yeah, I post on here with what I think of the shoes if it's relevant to a question that's been asked but I presume that people will take my opinion with a pinch of salt since I'm getting them free. I would if I weren't me, despite the fact that I've worn Scarpa for years when I wasn't getting them free. I bought some of that friction labs chalk recently, and figured I'd do a little blind test with some people and do a review, then it turned out that Mountain Boot Co (Scarpa & Edelweiss importer) are importing it, so a review seems like a waste of time as I wouldn't trust it if it were someone else doing it and their sponsor was the importer..
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Appreciate that some people play the game. I notice that Dave Macleod always raves about the new shoes that Scarpa brings out yet you'll only ever see him climbing in Stix.
And yes, definitely a lack of negatives in there. Some obvious ones being that there's no toe rubber and seems like they've gone back to ridiculously long laces (granted it looks like Ethan had to do them up pretty right, must be higher volume than the whites).
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They look just like Kendos, which were the best boot you could buy in 1993.
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I've never understood who would place much weight on gear 'reviews' that sponsored climbers put on their blogs.
It seems increasingly rare to see bad reviews anywhere these days, they're always positive, e.g. https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/ virtually never gives a bad review of the kit they've bought/been given to test.
Also if a sponsored climber is only using their sponsors equipment then they might not have the experience/objectivity of using alternative products to compare them to.
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They're out this Autumn - probably early/mid September.
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Shoe reviews are almost exclusively a waste of time. If you want to see what the best shoes are then go to the crags and see what people who actually pay for their boots are wearing, idelaly in situations where they necks are on the line. People who are sponsored or given stuff for free won't tell you it straight - FACT. Even I'd wear Scarpas for indoor bouldering if I was given them for nothing.
Isn't the rumour that when Stu was sponsored by Boreal in the 90s he would get all his boots resoled in FiveTen rubber, or was that just an urban myth?
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I'd heard that was Vickers.
I'd just like to point out I've worn Scarpas for ages, even when I had to pay for them. So there. :ras:
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They look just like Kendos, which were the best boot you could buy in 1993.
:lol: :lol: All I ever climbed in for years, good call JB.
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They look just like Kendos, which were the best boot you could buy in 1993.
:lol: :lol: All I ever climbed in for years, good call JB.
I wholly disagree. The toe box was clumpy and they had the sensitivity of Jeremy Clarkson.
Lazers.
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I agree with the general point about conflict of interest though in fairness to Ethan I think in this case it turns out that these new boots are actually just what he was looking for since they're designed exactly for the requirements of his project and his enthusiasm is genuine.
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My logic is along the following lines: the kind of person who writes reviews for their sponsors is the kind of person who like to play the game. The kind of person who likes to play the game is not the kind of person to give an honest appraisal of their sponsors gear in a public manner if they didn't like it. Maybe I'm just a cynical cunt.
Yeah, I post on here with what I think of the shoes if it's relevant to a question that's been asked but I presume that people will take my opinion with a pinch of salt since I'm getting them free. I would if I weren't me, despite the fact that I've worn Scarpa for years when I wasn't getting them free. I bought some of that friction labs chalk recently, and figured I'd do a little blind test with some people and do a review, then it turned out that Mountain Boot Co (Scarpa & Edelweiss importer) are importing it, so a review seems like a waste of time as I wouldn't trust it if it were someone else doing it and their sponsor was the importer..
If that makes you a cynical cunt then I'm one too - I prefer to think of it as believing strongly in the value of attempting to be objective (and a cunt).
Yes you have a conflict of interest... But is the chalk any good/better than comparison/worth the price? I've yet to test Richie's thimble of free sample..
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Rodellar (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/07/rodellar.html)
29 July 2015, 3:59 pm
Another trip is over and another world class climbing destination is ticked off the list. I say this every time and it is seriously cliche blah blah blah, but on these trips time really does just seem to vanish in the blink of an eye. One minute you're walking out your front door full of anticipation and no sooner do you know it but you're then having your last day and preparing to travel back home. You would think by now I'd be used to it but it continues to baffle me.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sB7rQJTUl_M/VbNNRx9bq-I/AAAAAAAAD3s/-k8cAPXuvrM/s640/IMG_0339.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sB7rQJTUl_M/VbNNRx9bq-I/AAAAAAAAD3s/-k8cAPXuvrM/s1600/IMG_0339.JPG)
Anyway, Rodellar. The land of of the steep, the home of the pump. I have heard so much about this place over the years and I really wanted to travel back to Spain after finally getting my first trip to the country smashed in back during the Spring, I decided to book flights and see what all the fuss was about. Stories and dreamy pictures of endless cliff faces jutting up out of a mind blowing gorge, dripping with tufa and enough routes to last a lifetime, was all too tempting. That coupled with the knowledge that all of this was within a maximum 20 minute walk from the famous refugio that is Kalandraka, had me fairly convinced that this would be a pretty sweet trip.
I love a good crag walk-in but the prospect of getting up in the morning and having the climbing smack bang in front of you was rather mouth watering.
Ceuse is fantastic, world class and probably my most favourite place on earth (at the present) to climb. But the approach, after a few weeks starts to mentally beat you up. What I was after this time around was somewhere that you could put your entire concentration into the actual rock climbing.
Joining me was the young Buster Martin, fresh from finishing his schooling and exams. After not climbing much for a year or so he was really eager to get back into the swing of things and I was relishing hooking up with the youth.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOuNXQFTvpw/VbNODtv9mZI/AAAAAAAAD30/fJIreQin124/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LOuNXQFTvpw/VbNODtv9mZI/AAAAAAAAD30/fJIreQin124/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg)
It was going to be hot, we were prepared for that. June + Spain means it is inevitable. But so many people go here during this time that we figured it'd be just fine. Besides it was such a cold winter for me, and bearing in mind just over a month ago I had a hand warmer stuffed in my chalk bag while climbing, the idea of sun, heat, blue skies, shorts, vests etc etc was extremely appealing.
Nothing could have prepared us though for the scorching 40 degree record temperatures that we actually ended up getting! Don't get me wrong, it was pretty nice, especially at first, but I have never felt such intense heat like that before in MY whole life. Even the locals were virtually dying and saying how crazy it all was. You could literally fry an egg on every surface you touched. Even the areas in the shade!
After getting record rainfall during my first trip to Spain back in March, I was now in the middle of a record heatwave on my second trip! Us Brits just can't win! ;)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQ6UjE3tZBs/VbNW-OkzmdI/AAAAAAAAD6M/y0pKpMBSQg4/s640/20150711_142632.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QQ6UjE3tZBs/VbNW-OkzmdI/AAAAAAAAD6M/y0pKpMBSQg4/s1600/20150711_142632.jpg)
The heat unfortunately meant that we both had to lower our expectations and re-access what was actually going to be possible. At times even just getting up to fetch a glass of water felt like a chore and physically draining. We had to time our sessions quite accurately and show a huge degree of patience. One morning we even got up at 4.30am to try and catch the cool temps! Not only were we greeted with darkness, being much further south than the UK, (surprise, surprise) but it was also already 25 degrees!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NECuoYiGLq8/VbTmA1gCJhI/AAAAAAAAD8k/zRridT4A0Os/s320/2015-07-07+16.35.55.png) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NECuoYiGLq8/VbTmA1gCJhI/AAAAAAAAD8k/zRridT4A0Os/s1600/2015-07-07+16.35.55.png)I very quickly decided that I would just treat this trip as a good time away from home and more of a relaxing climbing 'holiday' than anything too serious. These routes ain't going no where and it would have been a shame to spoil some of them when we can easily come back in the autumn with cooler temps.
I was more than happy enough just to be abroad, climbing on some whacky rock, chilling by the river, catching a decent tan and eating tasty fresh bread, straight from the oven, first with chorizo and then with dollops of nutella.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q-nq19qvgwM/VbZ_TmBRpiI/AAAAAAAAD9g/BCj6VL9iq0Y/s640/11373706_786202261479053_1064546598_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q-nq19qvgwM/VbZ_TmBRpiI/AAAAAAAAD9g/BCj6VL9iq0Y/s1600/11373706_786202261479053_1064546598_n.jpg)
By the end of the trip we had checked out most of the main sectors and worked out which crags were best to climb on at particular times and developed a good knowledge of when the shade would begin to come around. The dominate style here is arm busting pumpfests up steep steep terrain. However you'll still find a whole range of types of climbing, even sketchy slabs with the odd big runout for those that like to live on the edge a little...
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9g4IhV0lzA/VbjoC2oqOUI/AAAAAAAAD90/8M1U7gom224/s640/11806556_10205988473702589_211487296_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9g4IhV0lzA/VbjoC2oqOUI/AAAAAAAAD90/8M1U7gom224/s1600/11806556_10205988473702589_211487296_o.jpg) Probably the most famous route in Rodellar... El Delfin, 7c+
The whole 'patience is a virtue' thing was definitely taken to new levels for us both. There was a lot of down time spent hanging around the refugio, snoozing, watching Wimbledon and generally trying our best to keep the boredom at bay. With so much quality rock and amazing routes constantly in your face, beckoning and crying out to be climbed, it was quite frustrating. But we were in Spain after all, and not the UK, which I kept having to remind myself. I am pretty lucky and fortunate getting to travel to some of these places. Each morning I would sit on the balcony, having breakfast in silence, surrounded by endless rock and scenery, trying to soak it all in as much as possible. Whats to complain about!?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9dtZS_mkOh4/VbSLcXDwBCI/AAAAAAAAD6g/X17BlMVrnDo/s640/IMG_0336.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9dtZS_mkOh4/VbSLcXDwBCI/AAAAAAAAD6g/X17BlMVrnDo/s1600/IMG_0336.JPG)
As always on these trips it is not all about the climbing but the culture you immerse yourself in during your stay and the different people you meet along the way. Once again it was cool to hang out with some folk from all over the world. People from all walks of life, America, Japan, Israel.
For me a climbing trip isn't a proper climbing trip without meeting these people. You can learn so much from different cultures and ways of life. It is all rather fascinating, especially when you get to sit down with these guys and swap stories, lifestyles, jokes etc. I always find it amazing how even just a single phrase can have a totally different meaning in another culture or language. Sometimes good, sometimes bad but always amusing to find out these things nevertheless. It also always puts me to shame chatting with others about not being able to speak another language. Pretty dam lazy and something I would really like to start putting right. It literally opens so many doors, being able to speak even a little fluent in just one forgien language and certainly makes travelling in general a heck of a lot easier.
Anyway to all the guys n gals we met, I hope we'll all bump into one another again sometime in the near future and there is always room for you all to come visit the UK anytime you wish. Just hit us up!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDOLK24g5C0/VbNPY2hBLZI/AAAAAAAAD4k/WwKunsivb3I/s200/IMG_20150713_092329.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDOLK24g5C0/VbNPY2hBLZI/AAAAAAAAD4k/WwKunsivb3I/s1600/IMG_20150713_092329.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W0V02FLCDGw/VbNPaUJsAfI/AAAAAAAAD4s/GH7hnaExc7k/s200/IMG_20150711_221135.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W0V02FLCDGw/VbNPaUJsAfI/AAAAAAAAD4s/GH7hnaExc7k/s1600/IMG_20150711_221135.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MPjGNQnzj2I/VbNP-J7goxI/AAAAAAAAD44/KJgjloDvJUc/s200/IMG_20150703_194137.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MPjGNQnzj2I/VbNP-J7goxI/AAAAAAAAD44/KJgjloDvJUc/s1600/IMG_20150703_194137.jpg)
Despite all of this we still managed a short tick list. Lots of onsighting and just general tufa pulling fun. With one or two fairly decent hard ish sends along the way.
My favourite by a country mile has to be 'Les Chacals'. A fantastic long 8b on a beautifully carved out cliff face, high above the gorge and river below, with a selection of some of the most perfectly sculptured holds I have ever climbed on. From running tufa, fat and thin, to crazy pockets and dripping stalactites. It was probably the only day of the trip when we got lucky with both the shade and temps. My perfect sort of route and I was over the moon to get it in the bag. I'd say that it instantly made the top 10 of my all time favourite routes and is one that I'd highly recommend to anyone looking for a quality route at around this grade. You will not be dissaspointed. Muy bien!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-knrw8XTV2Ug/VbNQ3jpbNwI/AAAAAAAAD5A/9W2mci3c_Sc/s640/ah.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-knrw8XTV2Ug/VbNQ3jpbNwI/AAAAAAAAD5A/9W2mci3c_Sc/s1600/ah.jpg)Andreah Hah, high up on Les Chacals©MickyWiswedel
Our last night in Spain was spent wandering the streets of Barcelona, picking our way through the crowds and the hustle bustle of the famous La Rambla and dining on authentic Paella. It is a crazy city, packed full of history, shops, food and general craziness. A little smelly in parts though... Next trip we will hopefully get to spend a little more time here to explore the place properly and drop by the beach too!
A huge thankyou has to go out to our Finnish homie Joonas who gave us the tour before dropping us off at the airport in the early hours. Hope to see you again soon man and return the favour!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZvN80g6mE0/VbNSPPGhFnI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/ws2mGMgCTIg/s320/IMG_20150711_145944.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZvN80g6mE0/VbNSPPGhFnI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/ws2mGMgCTIg/s1600/IMG_20150711_145944.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Homies for lyfeee[/td][/tr]
[/table](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_NsRgS6-AV4/VbNPWM5RoiI/AAAAAAAAD4c/nHT2sTlCKDQ/s200/IMG_20150718_100618.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_NsRgS6-AV4/VbNPWM5RoiI/AAAAAAAAD4c/nHT2sTlCKDQ/s1600/IMG_20150718_100618.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OYV--I3ezqA/VbNSblROImI/AAAAAAAAD5s/cXN2rplB1RI/s200/IMG_20150706_190042.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OYV--I3ezqA/VbNSblROImI/AAAAAAAAD5s/cXN2rplB1RI/s1600/IMG_20150706_190042.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mV1oXIRmA58/VbSNEVisT2I/AAAAAAAAD6s/DNq6AwqFEqo/s200/IMG_20150703_100319.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mV1oXIRmA58/VbSNEVisT2I/AAAAAAAAD6s/DNq6AwqFEqo/s1600/IMG_20150703_100319.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GM-QRk8Lbmg/VbSNKWJWW4I/AAAAAAAAD60/4ypVpSlRJDQ/s200/IMG_20150719_082513.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GM-QRk8Lbmg/VbSNKWJWW4I/AAAAAAAAD60/4ypVpSlRJDQ/s1600/IMG_20150719_082513.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eALSfLSUcKA/VbSQ1h_G46I/AAAAAAAAD7Q/Bx1Y6AeGDLk/s200/IMG_0350.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eALSfLSUcKA/VbSQ1h_G46I/AAAAAAAAD7Q/Bx1Y6AeGDLk/s1600/IMG_0350.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lOPUFo-W0K8/VbSTyld0ifI/AAAAAAAAD7k/8qzmAoF0c4c/s200/IMG_20150726_085313.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lOPUFo-W0K8/VbSTyld0ifI/AAAAAAAAD7k/8qzmAoF0c4c/s1600/IMG_20150726_085313.jpg)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKRztAdugzY/VbSW_xN_fEI/AAAAAAAAD74/aChIXX1yGmA/s200/IMG_20150726_085153.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JKRztAdugzY/VbSW_xN_fEI/AAAAAAAAD74/aChIXX1yGmA/s1600/IMG_20150726_085153.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JdPtXuguKXE/VbSXKB-OBRI/AAAAAAAAD8A/T4B5BwYtVVc/s200/IMG_0367.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JdPtXuguKXE/VbSXKB-OBRI/AAAAAAAAD8A/T4B5BwYtVVc/s1600/IMG_0367.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJpVCrT6YBk/VbSQDqToLWI/AAAAAAAAD7E/l1srReF8h0Y/s640/20150706_141431.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJpVCrT6YBk/VbSQDqToLWI/AAAAAAAAD7E/l1srReF8h0Y/s1600/20150706_141431.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQZMB2NdKAU/VbjocrARMnI/AAAAAAAAD-I/Z20sKHpoPhc/s640/11800794_10205988472982571_1345809574_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQZMB2NdKAU/VbjocrARMnI/AAAAAAAAD-I/Z20sKHpoPhc/s1600/11800794_10205988472982571_1345809574_o.jpg)[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bME9kRv-JEY/VbSQInFFL2I/AAAAAAAAD7M/vd0-Aem4klA/s400/IMG_20150716_151946.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bME9kRv-JEY/VbSQInFFL2I/AAAAAAAAD7M/vd0-Aem4klA/s1600/IMG_20150716_151946.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Final day pump![/td][/tr]
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On returning home I had the weekend to chill before a busy week away route setting down south. Rather annoyingly I seriously injured my ribs Monday evening while having a brief session at the wall. Long story but basically running at a climbing wall, and smashing your ribcage against solid resin holds is rather painful. In fact, the worst pain I have EVER experienced in my entire life.
Somehow and rather miraculously I managed to fight my way through the remaining days of setting and get back home to rest. I guess I should be thankful that it didn't happen before we were due to fly out to Spain!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-64ncRbz92QA/VbNO5XxjDrI/AAAAAAAAD4Q/3MmlQuBj5ts/s320/IMG_20150724_155617.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-64ncRbz92QA/VbNO5XxjDrI/AAAAAAAAD4Q/3MmlQuBj5ts/s1600/IMG_20150724_155617.jpg)
It is definitely on the mend and after getting a quick x-ray yesterday to confirm nothing was broken or badly damaged, my mind is at rest and with a bit of a luck I should only be out of action for a week. Frustrating but these things happen and you just have to suck it up. Easy to say when you know you won't be out for long, but I cannot imagine what it must be like for the people that have months and months of rehabilitation ahead of them. I should be and I am pretty thankful to be honest.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ft0bPkdHWWY/VbjokRdHC_I/AAAAAAAAD-M/jHd2tpl7MTk/s640/11790105_10205988472542560_1055283424_o.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ft0bPkdHWWY/VbjokRdHC_I/AAAAAAAAD-M/jHd2tpl7MTk/s1600/11790105_10205988472542560_1055283424_o.jpg) Literally the one of the best sleeps I've ever had. Smack bang in the middle of Barcelona coach station. Like a baby!
As soon as we are fully mended my main goal over the coming weeks is to spend as much time in Yorkshire as possible. Before leaving for Spain I had a very brief look at Bat Route so I am real eager to return and give it some efforts.
The idea of climbing such a showpiece route such as this, is for me rather mental. My climbing has come on a long way within the last couple of years, but it still feels all a bit surreal when I get to tie in and try such a hard and historic route, straight up the middle of one of the most impressive and arguably best bits of rock in the UK. Psyched to get stuck in, back into project mode and having fun with the process again.
Then come the autumn time I would absolutely love a return to Rodellar for round 2 and this time with my Dad in tow. I think the vast scenery and chilled Spanish lifestyle whetted his appetite so it'll be cool to show him around as well as try some of the routes that we saved from this trip.
A trip to Gorge du Tarn is also currently in the early stages of planning... Another place never visited before but somewhere that has been on the radar for quite a while. Plenty of my friends have been and all have said how much we need to visit. It'll be good to cruise on down through France again roadtrip style!
We should be heading here with a small 'film crew' so keep your eyes peeled for more info on that. I know that the location will look incredible on camera so we are all pretty excited by the prospect of this mini project...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n1X9LM3KWWg/VbNWx_2D6EI/AAAAAAAAD6E/PJjlfZLgaMk/s640/IMG_0334.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n1X9LM3KWWg/VbNWx_2D6EI/AAAAAAAAD6E/PJjlfZLgaMk/s1600/IMG_0334.JPG)
Some sponsor plugging here but I would just like to give a massive shout out to Scheckters Energy (http://schecktersorganic.com/) who very kindly sent us out a couple of crates of drinks with the help of Gourmet Bio Natural (http://www.gourmetbionatural.com/). Delivered straight to Kalandraka! They went down an absolute bomb in the heat and were honestly a bit of a life saver.
Lastly a big up to the guys at Kalandraka for providing such an awesome place to stay! My kind of scene and we'll see you all again soon for sure. Maybe next time I'll even try to stay up past 1am for the flamenco!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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A return to France. The Tarn. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/09/a-return-to-france-tarn.html)
6 September 2015, 10:24 pm
Where to begin?
I've been pretty fortunate so far this year in that I have finally started to pursue and take my climbing further afield. Away from the comforts and the increasingly tedious and often boring nature of the UK.
The Gorges du Tarn. Every climber has heard of this French stomping ground. Situated just outside of Millau in the Midi-Pyrenees, lies a beautiful deep gorge, carved out by the ages with towering rock faces as far as the eye can see.
When I arrived home from Spain my original plan was to head back out during the autumn to catch some much needed cooler temps. However plans end up changing like the wind and I got asked by my very good friends, Jon and Pete Clark, if we fancied a couple of weeks in the Tarn. These guys have got this place totally dialled up, having both made around six or seven trips in the past. They would do all the driving and organising and basically chauffeur me around for the entire time. How could I refuse! It was an easy decision to make.
I said yes within an instant. The idea of a jolly in the sun even got my Dad tempted and so for the first time he decided to join us on a euro adventure. Four Brits on tour!
Even though my experience of foreign climbing destinations is still rather limited, I've got to say that I think this place has the most amount of rock that I have ever seen! Route styles range from short bouldery gnarl to huge 100 metre+ outings, with grades across the entire spectrum. The adage of there being something for everyone could not be more true for this place.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9UQgyDlVsE/VexWqHoIydI/AAAAAAAAEA4/ry2Kn2u_tuQ/s640/Jonte.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9UQgyDlVsE/VexWqHoIydI/AAAAAAAAEA4/ry2Kn2u_tuQ/s1600/Jonte.jpg)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53yGp6JKID4/VeyZqCvNhyI/AAAAAAAAECY/KVOgEvSiWBI/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.59.42.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-53yGp6JKID4/VeyZqCvNhyI/AAAAAAAAECY/KVOgEvSiWBI/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.59.42.jpg)
Driving up through the gorge on our first day, our eyes hardly knew where to look first. Akin to memories of the first time we ever drove up the Llanberis Pass. 'Like a kid in a candy shop' I remember it well. Seeing the Cromlech for the first time was out of this world. The itch and fire to start climbing increasing with every turn in the road, as another huge sector would come into view.
Our faces pressed up against the car windows, straining to see but unable to take it all in.
Huge blank walls flanking us on both sides. Steep prows and towers standing tall and casting enormous shadows. The river flowing below us, kayakers gently making their way down in the sunshine. I kind of knew what to expect after hearing so much about the place and seeing all the photos/videos, but to see the place in the flesh was breath taking.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ml398wrA0R4/VexAoQrUm1I/AAAAAAAAD_U/c8Ba9-5xPRA/s320/11909235_465117700334372_58339181_n.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ml398wrA0R4/VexAoQrUm1I/AAAAAAAAD_U/c8Ba9-5xPRA/s1600/11909235_465117700334372_58339181_n.jpg)
What makes the whole thing even more spectacular is that the big established crags suddenly seem to come into view out of no where. You spend a good amount of time twisting, turning, winding and weaving your way up from Millau, past farms, fields, the odd 'village' and tiny pockets of civilisation and then BAM. You turn a corner and you are there. Paradise. Neck ache from craning your head up against the car windows is something that you just have to accept!
The one thing that was so blindly obvious from the start was how much cooler it was down here than the 2 weeks prior in Rodellar. You could actually breathe, and walk about without verging on collasping in a heap!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RaMwIFwKZsk/VeyhbdS9ghI/AAAAAAAAEC8/tABD4n3iXGc/s640/IMG_0430.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RaMwIFwKZsk/VeyhbdS9ghI/AAAAAAAAEC8/tABD4n3iXGc/s1600/IMG_0430.JPG)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAa4Npw9hQk/VeyhgyzCzKI/AAAAAAAAEDE/QBbddt2l2wc/s640/IMG_0453.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAa4Npw9hQk/VeyhgyzCzKI/AAAAAAAAEDE/QBbddt2l2wc/s1600/IMG_0453.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-auBh70idkIU/VeyZBiCd-4I/AAAAAAAAECQ/ke-HICV1by8/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+20.09.30.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-auBh70idkIU/VeyZBiCd-4I/AAAAAAAAECQ/ke-HICV1by8/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+20.09.30.jpg)Sunrise. The stunning, soaring arete of 'Tennessee'
Being the only one of us all who would be climbing meant I was free to climb from route to route, and pick any crag I fancied for the day. It was definitely a bit of luxury and I am super grateful for the all the guys time, belays, commitment and effort they gave me. But it did mean we had to be careful not to constantly go full burn the entire time!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BbQlUVxQWm0/Vexd9uTXtjI/AAAAAAAAEBg/Tn1C1wVT5Qc/s320/11821796_1519442278347026_1948202918_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BbQlUVxQWm0/Vexd9uTXtjI/AAAAAAAAEBg/Tn1C1wVT5Qc/s1600/11821796_1519442278347026_1948202918_n.jpg) The daily crag commute with the obligatory patisserie stop off.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YDJsqPbOMeg/VexFNjelzqI/AAAAAAAAD_0/xEsVII_c87A/s320/11917794_1672664086302801_1510020894_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YDJsqPbOMeg/VexFNjelzqI/AAAAAAAAD_0/xEsVII_c87A/s1600/11917794_1672664086302801_1510020894_n.jpg)Rest days were needed and luckily there was always something to do in town. Side streets full of little shops, cafes and bakeries to discover. Old buildings to walk around and explore. Millau is an historic place that is always bustling with life and colour, a hive of activity, with a weekly market that blew us away. Such a variety of food from all over. Stalls laden with local fresh fruit n produce, beautiful, straight out of the oven baguettes and enough pastries and cakes that left you not knowing what to try first. The mind boggled!
We would then retire back to the campsite and doss around in the sunshine, chat late into the evening before hitting the sack, already fired up and champing at the bit for the morning to come round and with it, a new climbing day. Life could not have been simplier.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIH1E9vhvm8/VexDgPzHpRI/AAAAAAAAD_g/HG6pZ7zpB5I/s320/IMG_0482.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIH1E9vhvm8/VexDgPzHpRI/AAAAAAAAD_g/HG6pZ7zpB5I/s1600/IMG_0482.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PKZd6_RlnNU/VexVW_0GN6I/AAAAAAAAEAk/4WODncS4jRc/s320/IMG_0466.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PKZd6_RlnNU/VexVW_0GN6I/AAAAAAAAEAk/4WODncS4jRc/s1600/IMG_0466.JPG)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3qLxor5ETHQ/VexVZGEbKkI/AAAAAAAAEAs/Wllf0Ml4SCs/s320/IMG_0498.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3qLxor5ETHQ/VexVZGEbKkI/AAAAAAAAEAs/Wllf0Ml4SCs/s1600/IMG_0498.JPG)
One afternoon we joined JC and Pete for a hike up to the top of Gorge du Jonte. Home of the majestic vultures! The lads had already trekked to see these huge beasts a few days before and we figured it was an opportunity not to be missed. Seeing these creatures up close at 3000 feet, circling above your head and hearing the wind whip up all around you, was breathtaking and a pretty special way to end a day. These birds are always made out to be nasty, dirty and evil things and while they may be scavengers there is no doubt that they are magnificent creatures and with their 8 foot wingspan they truly are a sight to behold.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7VqRzYt1eVY/VexZJhBmUJI/AAAAAAAAEBI/af3CezjNe7w/s640/11903937_529346043881935_3532627921552487856_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7VqRzYt1eVY/VexZJhBmUJI/AAAAAAAAEBI/af3CezjNe7w/s1600/11903937_529346043881935_3532627921552487856_n.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NME3x4rlGJg/VexZI6ooz7I/AAAAAAAAEBE/jhB9E1xoM7A/s640/11863358_529346030548603_4909620847172162659_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NME3x4rlGJg/VexZI6ooz7I/AAAAAAAAEBE/jhB9E1xoM7A/s1600/11863358_529346030548603_4909620847172162659_n.jpg)
We visited such a huge range of crags and climbed such an abundance of fantastic routes, that I am sure it would eventually bore you to death to read about them all.
Every day was a good day but one of the stand out days was the session I power screamed my way up one of the areas hardcore pocket pulling test pieces. No surprises that this line resides at the aptly named sector 'Gullich'! The steep and fierce 'Le Spectre de l'ottokar', clocks in at around 8b+ and stands proud, jutting out high above the winding river below. A route that would fit like a glove in the forests of the Frankenjura.
It still amazes me how some of these routes are so perfectly formed. Each pocket immaculately shaped for a human hand and fingers. And not just shaped, but positioned in such a way that it creates one exact sequence of moves. I find it all rather bizarre but it really is like these cliff faces were always made to be climbed, but somehow it has just taken centuries for the human race to realise.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2TGoBfE6Sg/Vew9vRGPJgI/AAAAAAAAD_M/cqd3uVP-CzI/s640/IMG_0492.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n2TGoBfE6Sg/Vew9vRGPJgI/AAAAAAAAD_M/cqd3uVP-CzI/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HOR_DILEHEg/Vew8IKt_g3I/AAAAAAAAD-s/irYHFVsKfqw/s640/IMG_0459.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HOR_DILEHEg/Vew8IKt_g3I/AAAAAAAAD-s/irYHFVsKfqw/s1600/IMG_0459.JPG)
It was full pedal to the metal, all out screaming on every move throughout the crux sequence. A very memorable experience and to managed to get it done on my 2nd try made the success even sweeter!
Afterwards we trekked slightly higher up the gorge for the classic 7a and mega popular route 'Le Trésor du Zèbre'. For anyone visiting the Tarn, this route is a must! It is probably one of my most favourite routes I have EVER done, an absolute gem of a line on some of the biggest and craziest holds you can think of. A huge diagonal traversing pitch across pristine rock, with truly breathtaking scenery all around. One of the best positions you could wish for and the swing after stripping the draws is rather spectacular too!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d1Jb7Bhi5L4/Vew8M337GQI/AAAAAAAAD-4/cz_2crn4gHU/s640/IMG_0491.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-d1Jb7Bhi5L4/Vew8M337GQI/AAAAAAAAD-4/cz_2crn4gHU/s1600/IMG_0491.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JNQ9VFscoh4/VexUcYWdiSI/AAAAAAAAEAc/YoJoP-xLaQI/s640/IMG_0527.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JNQ9VFscoh4/VexUcYWdiSI/AAAAAAAAEAc/YoJoP-xLaQI/s1600/IMG_0527.JPG)Early morning sessions pay off with on onsight of 'Hoy me Voy' (8a)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gdCSOZLRNQ0/Vew9VuTzbGI/AAAAAAAAD_A/ZjKS-uCPh28/s640/Cantobre.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gdCSOZLRNQ0/Vew9VuTzbGI/AAAAAAAAD_A/ZjKS-uCPh28/s1600/Cantobre.jpg)
I could probably write an entire blog about Cantobre alone. The ancient, fortified medieval village itself sits atop a rocky outcrop in the middle of the Dourbie valley and looks out across at the streaky, rainbow limestone cliff. It truly is a fantastic place, full of history that spans the ages. Stone Age man once roamed about these parts, the Celts have been here, the Romans, Saracens, the list goes on. It is perhaps more well known however for being a bastion of the Knights Templar. Everyone seems to have wanted a piece of the pie at some point! These days however its occupants and visitors are slightly different.
The cliff is something akin to Ceuse, albeit on a much smaller scale. A multi-coloured swooping wave of compact rock, carved out through the ages with routes left, right and centre that range from 7a to 8c! It is a climbers playground and I quickly found it to be totally my style. It was plain to see straight away why JC had been ranting on about this place for so long and urging us to make the trip.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nKVEJxQ1xi4/Vew7yH-AsZI/AAAAAAAAD-k/w9059sdNEoc/s640/IMG_0526.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nKVEJxQ1xi4/Vew7yH-AsZI/AAAAAAAAD-k/w9059sdNEoc/s1600/IMG_0526.JPG)
The general style here is big moves, powerful lock offs, and pockets, pockets, pockets galore, before many of the lines ease off as the crag begins to slab out at about half height. You have to be prepared to go big on some of these but with the safe knowledge that you'll soon reach a bucket of joy ahead.
We made a vague plan to return on our final day before starting the long drive back home. As the crag virtually gets full sun throughout the summer period we crossed our fingers the night before in the hope some cloud would roll in. And boy did it come good!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7c4Xg31sNo/VeyYquPrRaI/AAAAAAAAECI/hhOH5GcHZnA/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.47.26.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P7c4Xg31sNo/VeyYquPrRaI/AAAAAAAAECI/hhOH5GcHZnA/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.47.26.jpg)
We awoke the next day to perfect cloud cover, and an incredible mild breeze made for some of the best climbing conditions I've ever experienced. Thankfully we were able to make it count. A quick stop for bread and we made the easy, quiet drive up through the Dourbie.
Within the first hour an onsight of the classic 8a of the crag 'Les Dernières Plantations du Christ' was in the bag and then the true prize of the day was my surprise first 8a+ onsight, 'Torticolis'. What a beauty! Big all out leaps between pockets and a head wall to rival climbing in Ceuse made for one very unforgettable climb. It was one of my best and favourite days of rock climbing I have ever had and the perfect way to round off a fantastic 2 weeks.
We celebrated back at camp with a brew and one final pain aux raisin before bidding Millau au revoir, and then began the journey home.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oy03USBodQg/VeyiZYWONmI/AAAAAAAAEDU/qfJSieqQV88/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.53.27.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oy03USBodQg/VeyiZYWONmI/AAAAAAAAEDU/qfJSieqQV88/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-09-06+at+19.53.27.jpg)
I seriously cannot thank Pete and Jon enough for all the driving they did and for showing us a such a good time! Not to mention all the sick photos! It is a trip that will sit long in the memory and I already cannot wait to make another journey out here next spring for some unfinished business and to sample more of what this wonderful part of the world has to offer.
Here's to our next adventure together chaps! Wherever that may be... :)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvYybZeS5zg/VeystUnN64I/AAAAAAAAEDk/59iCntPFXUc/s640/IMG_0542.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvYybZeS5zg/VeystUnN64I/AAAAAAAAEDk/59iCntPFXUc/s1600/IMG_0542.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MZyUo_Vav18/VexFzxGDRjI/AAAAAAAAD_8/4xEhHOKLbnQ/s640/Millau+Sunset.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MZyUo_Vav18/VexFzxGDRjI/AAAAAAAAD_8/4xEhHOKLbnQ/s1600/Millau+Sunset.jpg)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Autumn Phase (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/10/autumn-phase.html)
14 October 2015, 3:58 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IuNmm4FuV_E/Vh6B5ieXQ9I/AAAAAAAAEFM/mz59vMT3IO4/s640/GetInline-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IuNmm4FuV_E/Vh6B5ieXQ9I/AAAAAAAAEFM/mz59vMT3IO4/s1600/GetInline-2.jpg)
It has been a great Autumn so far in the UK, particularly from a climbing perspective with generally settled conditions and DRY crags in abundance! As our summer adventures in Europe began to come to a close towards the end of August, I had a number of projects in mind back home.
One thing I was really keen for was to make a few trips up to Malham. Unfortunately we kept on getting unlucky with the crag basking in the sunshine all day. All very nice but not conducive to the best climbing conditions on the catwalk! However this led us to retreating to the shady sanctum of Goredale and a quick and rather unexpected send of the mighty ‘Supercool’. It has some of the best climbing in Yorkshire with some of the best most compact limestone around. AND all in a rather impressive setting. I really hope to be able to try the other two jewels in Yorkshires triple crown sometime next year and complete the saga.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdGp4mYhUVc/Vh5kFCqDyZI/AAAAAAAAEEk/CWHDFKWvhNM/s640/Supercool.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YdGp4mYhUVc/Vh5kFCqDyZI/AAAAAAAAEEk/CWHDFKWvhNM/s1600/Supercool.jpg)Supercool©JonClark
First on the list back home in the Peak was another Chee Dale cornice offering. I do love it down the dale, despite having now done a majority of the routes that the place has to offer, I always love heading back and spending some time under the canopy of trees, surrounded by quality rock and being apart of that whole scene.
Barney Ragin’. An old project of Jon Fullwood’s that he ended up gifting to Caff around 5 years ago. I remember being there the day he did it, looking on and never once imagining I’d be good enough to try myself. What baffles me more is that this was back in 2010! In some ways it seems like 5 minutes ago but in others a lifetime seems to have passed by. My climbing has certainly come a long way in this time and it definitely seemed like another case of things coming full circle once again as I contemplated jumping on it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1W_PeO8nu5M/Vhtw1GfF4aI/AAAAAAAAEEI/XJh681wdNMg/s640/BarneyRagin%25272.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1W_PeO8nu5M/Vhtw1GfF4aI/AAAAAAAAEEI/XJh681wdNMg/s1600/BarneyRagin%25272.jpg)©JonClark
Anyway it was another line that did not disappoint. A couple of moves rightwards out of R n P and you immediately find yourself smack bang at the crux. One powerful pull into high undercuts that require tension and beans before a gazillion intricate foot placements deposit you half way along the Butterflies traverse and a moment of respite. A couple of quick shakes and you are straight into the crux of Butterflies itself. Tic tacking, piano playing on tiny edges with delicate footwork eventually leads you to the belay. Job done. A fantastic addition to Peak Lime!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EtgCisBpnUc/Vh5kdLpR2uI/AAAAAAAAEEs/DXlDBo6QH5w/s640/BarneyRagin%25271.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EtgCisBpnUc/Vh5kdLpR2uI/AAAAAAAAEEs/DXlDBo6QH5w/s1600/BarneyRagin%25271.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5LiCgdM95oI/Vh5keZr00RI/AAAAAAAAEE0/M0a95nnK62M/s640/BarneyRagin%25273.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5LiCgdM95oI/Vh5keZr00RI/AAAAAAAAEE0/M0a95nnK62M/s1600/BarneyRagin%25273.jpg)
The temps have really dropped this week. There is that nippy chill in the air during the mornings and the nights are closing in faster every day. As the trees begin to rapidly change to their vibrant autumn colours and leaves scatter about, the down jackets are firmly back out along with the flask of hot tea! Autumn is great. I love it. But the thought of what may lurk in the dark winter months ahead is a little disheartening.
I’m hoping that what remains of the limestone season will be a good one and we can get a couple more projects done before the winter sets in and training commences for next years plans and objectives.
BLCC'sSomething rather different for me a couple of weekends ago now was entering the British Lead Climbing Championships for the very first time. Now I really cannot say for certain what it was that made me randomly psyched to register and compete alongside all those strong n young comp climbing wads but sure enough I found myself at Awesome Walls early on the 4th October and pinning my comp number to the back of my vest.
It had been over 5 years since my last lead climbing competition and I had no real expectations other than to enjoy trying something different for a change and catch up with friends I rarely get to see.
Safe to say I got pumped much quicker than I imagined! It is crazy the pressure you feel when competing in lead, I had totally forgotten how this can affect the way you climb.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMfQNl4mp0Y/Vh5rvy1ribI/AAAAAAAAEFA/TN7XeVZwQgE/s640/12144693_925476540857532_3752870436106037400_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aMfQNl4mp0Y/Vh5rvy1ribI/AAAAAAAAEFA/TN7XeVZwQgE/s1600/12144693_925476540857532_3752870436106037400_n.jpg) ©Ladoza/Borodajkewycz
It would be a lie to say that in the end I was not slightly disappointed with my performance and coming away with a 12th place finish. But it was a cool day out, we had fun, and it was great to see so many strong youths battling it out. In particular Jim Pope, who dominated throughout the weekend and showed the rest of us what this game is all about. That lad has got skills!
Back outside, check out the quick edit below of a cool boulder problem I was pleased to tick last week. It felt good to change up the gears, and once again engage the body into what I like to call 'boulder try hard mode'!
Whatever you are all up to, be it grit or lime, have a good sending season!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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A good place (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2015/11/a-good-place.html)
5 November 2015, 11:09 am
I am in a pretty good place right now. Looking outside at one of those typical damp and grey November days, I am unusually content and relaxed. The last few weeks have seen me investing my time and throwing my energy into another hard Peak sport route. Devolution. Last weekend saw the conclusion of this mini saga and we are still living off the psyche that a completed project brings.
For those not entirely clued up on their Raven Tor trivia, Devolution climbs the lower crux section of the mega classic, rarely repeated, Jerry Moffatt route 'Evolution', before scamping off rightwards via some delicate crimping into the headwall of Chimes of Freedom.
It is of course a cop out in many ways but still provides some seriously hard climbing and if Evo itself is considered 8c+ these days then this has surely got to be 8c in its own right. Either way, it is still pretty stiff! I figured on giving it a bash as the meat of the route is still the lower section of Evo and it would provide a good stepping stone to trying this afterwards.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CevL1C55Qvs/VjsuiVHcZaI/AAAAAAAAEFs/kbUDRQAzGjY/s640/GetInline.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CevL1C55Qvs/VjsuiVHcZaI/AAAAAAAAEFs/kbUDRQAzGjY/s1600/GetInline.jpg)
It started to get a little frustrating at times, as redpointing does. I kept blowing the big lock-off move to the break but it was mostly due to my finger splitting open which meant my attempts were always limited. I had to have quite a few days off from climbing to make sure my skin was in the best shape it could be for the next session. Forced down time is seriously not my thing.
I am not sure what is worse. Falling off after doing 30+ moves or falling after about 3. On the one hand doing a tonne of moves and hard climbing is great for improving and maintaining fitness but then you fall over and over and your heart breaks.
Doing 3 moves and falling just gets you angry, in a whole different way. It feels sometimes as if you are just going backwards and you start to think you are getting weaker. This is all in the head of course but that is half the battle. Head games. Jedi mind tricks so to speak.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jyrkcxt64Ew/VjsufxaGsNI/AAAAAAAAEFk/8lgC7d9f06Q/s640/GetInline-1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jyrkcxt64Ew/VjsufxaGsNI/AAAAAAAAEFk/8lgC7d9f06Q/s1600/GetInline-1.jpg)
I have climbed Chimes literally hundreds of times. To the point where I could do the thing in my sleep, with a cold and dosed up on calpol. Baby Chimes was my first 8a and the full line is probably one of my favourite routes in the area.
I always knew that once at this point, from the ground it would be totally fine from here on in, but I also always knew that it would probably be rather nerve-racking climbing my way to the belay. After finally pulling through the start and making that breakthrough, to blow it on some silly moves done a million times before was not even worth thinking about.
However the mind is a hard thing to control. The minute I left the resting jugs on the headwall I felt a jibbering wreck! My brain was going berzerk, already in the future, trying to project me into post send glory. It felt almost impossible to switch off, relax and focus on the moves ahead. A simple moment of madness. A silly foot misplacement on the last move almost could have had me off. Thankfully it mattered not and the job was sealed. But it sure gave us a fright.
Now this one is out of the way I am psyched to get stuck into the main event. Who knows if it will go this year, as the season is rapidly drawing to a close. Hopefully there are a few weeks yet so at least if nothing else I will be able to lay the ground work for a full blown attack at it next spring.
Anyway I'm off to build a bonfire and make a pot of chili.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Staying on track, looking ahead. (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/01/staying-on-track-looking-ahead.html)
10 January 2016, 9:14 pm
I am a little late to the usual yearly roundup. The one that everyone dishes out as another year draws to a close and a brand new one dawns, but I can firmly say that 2015 was another stellar year for myself. I was able to achieve huge personal milestones and really start to see the results of lots of hard work and commitment begin to pay off.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dpySTxJ8PI8/VpKfcKuz6uI/AAAAAAAAEGE/J7ed0BOmj4U/s640/Cantobre.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dpySTxJ8PI8/VpKfcKuz6uI/AAAAAAAAEGE/J7ed0BOmj4U/s1600/Cantobre.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]© JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table]We went on a bunch of fantastic trips and adventures, which as I’ve mentioned countless times now, really opened my eyes to the vast potential out there and just how much fun you can have with the right people who are just as psyched as yourself.
I spent the last few weeks of the year taking some down time, chilling out and enjoying giving my body a bit of rest, as much as I could manage anyway without boredom setting in. I always look forward to the Christmas and holiday period and with the year I had just had it made everything all the more pleasant being able to relax and look back, safe in the knowledge of everything we had achieved.
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FiGM1S8QEo4/VpLBBRgFnhI/AAAAAAAAEGU/b4xDYT-EBYI/s640/GetInline.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FiGM1S8QEo4/VpLBBRgFnhI/AAAAAAAAEGU/b4xDYT-EBYI/s1600/GetInline.jpg) |
| © JonClark |
2016 promises to be another big year if everything works out and goes to plan. We have some truly great trips and ideas lined up, not to mention various pieces of unfinished business to take care of.
I cannot wait to get started! Until then it is time to train, prepare well and get strong.
After speaking briefly last year with one of the UK's leading performance coaches I was told that if I wanted to continue to push my limits and perhaps go on to stepping my climbing up to the next level then I may need to sacrifice some time outside in order to dedicate time into knuckling down to some serious training.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig3rdIZoEkw/VpLGzrEvTTI/AAAAAAAAEGk/7bcB7IMVs_U/s640/Ethan%252C+cwif.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ig3rdIZoEkw/VpLGzrEvTTI/AAAAAAAAEGk/7bcB7IMVs_U/s1600/Ethan%252C+cwif.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]© TimGlasby[/td][/tr]
[/table]Anyone that knows me will know how much I love being outside. For me that is what it is all about. So at first the prospect of choosing to train rather than head out onto real rock was a little off putting. However I am actually looking forward to the whole idea and currently enjoying the change up.
I make no claims whatsoever about being a training guru and I totally confess to not knowing for sure if I am on the right track with things, but I can see the benefits it will hopefully yield and to be fair it is not like we are missing out on anything too spectacular right now! Maybe in Europe, but as far as this country goes, nothing much is happening at all.
So in some ways, however depressing it is, the winter we are currently experiencing has hardly been an issue. It has enabled me, up to this point, to focus in on some structured training and not feel guilty and sad about missing out on quality days in the great outdoors. If we do ever see the return of those crispy blue skies then I will most likely be out that door in a flash! Until then I shall be wrecking myself on pieces of wood and plastic.
Just where exactly my limits may lie and if I will ever truly be able to reach them, I cannot say, but that is what makes the whole thing so exciting. I know that I can continue to improve and grow as a climber and the desire to do so is greater than ever before.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Yqbz_njMws/VpLHKPdc4SI/AAAAAAAAEGs/NZjl7LUhCCQ/s640/Overnight+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Yqbz_njMws/VpLHKPdc4SI/AAAAAAAAEGs/NZjl7LUhCCQ/s1600/Overnight+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]© JonClark[/td][/tr]
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Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Changes (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/03/changes.html)
11 March 2016, 2:48 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4x5HWlIyP_A/VuLaLY3TrzI/AAAAAAAAEHM/9HdIL8dLNHIAt1iMlIuLyJRokqb8Kljlg/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4x5HWlIyP_A/VuLaLY3TrzI/AAAAAAAAEHM/9HdIL8dLNHIAt1iMlIuLyJRokqb8Kljlg/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg)
Since the start of the year there have quite a few different changes in my life. I have kept it fairly quiet but the year itself didn't get off to the best of starts when a sudden and unexplained elbow injury raised its niggling and nagging head.
Everything was in place to start a period of organised training and psyche was extremely high to see the benefits of a solid structured program that would hopefully yield some decent results come our trip to The Tarn in May.
I’ll try not to bore you with all the details and prevent turning this blog into one of those usual in-depth ‘injury moaning’ stories that seem to constantly flash across our screens these days.
It was only a few days after Christmas and I suddenly noticed a strange discomfort in my left elbow/arm while doing a few routes at the wall.
At first I figured it being nothing but it quickly became apparent something was definitely not quite right. Particularly after discovering the Joint would grind and click when flexed.
At one point things did seem to be improving but then the niggle would randomly ‘flare’ up again.
Training quickly had to be put on the back burner and toned down. The annoying thing is that I still have no idea what the exact problem is, or how it even happened! I am assuming it is probably a number of things that have caused the Problem and it is probably down to the effects that intense climbing, nearly full time, can start to have on the body. I have been to a number of physio sessions and finally have a scan booked in for next week which might hopefully begin to shed some light.
At first the Situation was ridiculously hard to accept.. Having not had the experience of one of these potential long term type of injuries before and the ways in which to deal with them, made it even worse. Not being able to do what you love and what your life revolves around is, quite simply, depressing.
I’ve busted my ribs and back in the last few years but while those injuries were at the time a million times more painful and debilitating it was at least obvious what the problem was and you could rest safe in the knowledge that they would heal within a given time frame.
My elbow, while no where near as painful has turned into some thing much more serious.
All of this has meant that I have had to unfortunately pull out of CWIF this weekend. I am pretty gutted to be missing out on the 10th year, especially after my performance last year in reaching the semi finals for the first time. I'm sure it will be a cracking weekend and with a field that is looking stronger than ever it will certainly be interesting to see who comes out on top...
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-41GPTahuqXk/VuLDteA5BjI/AAAAAAAAEG8/9Hndaeb1dhETHBrXzzmcB7I-LWS9nXCpQ/s640/11040415_10153114602260149_953515801_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-41GPTahuqXk/VuLDteA5BjI/AAAAAAAAEG8/9Hndaeb1dhETHBrXzzmcB7I-LWS9nXCpQ/s1600/11040415_10153114602260149_953515801_o.jpg)CWIF 2015
© DomWorrall?
However things have not been altogether bad news. Last month I was offered a rather exciting position with my main sponsor Mammut. A position that has the potential for some great opportunities and involve doing some ‘proper work'! It was something that I could hardly refuse and so far it has all been going extremely well and I'm psyched to see how things develop.
So while the injury has meant I am unable to go full steam on the climbing and training front at this exact moment in time, I have been able to keep myself from going totally insane by immersing myself into this new role.
Enjoy the weekend ya'll! Spring might even make another appearance if we're lucky...
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Countdown (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/04/countdown.html)
18 April 2016, 1:38 pm
The countdown is firmly on now for our return trip to France next month. The ferry is booked for the 28th April, the tick lists are currently being written up and the excitement amongst us all is building. We'll be spending the whole of May mainly in The Tarn and potentially checking out somewhere new on the drive back north, towards the end of the month.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpuM-3_va0M/VxTN5LOSnuI/AAAAAAAAEHo/BR1PkoclG-AcHBSdNUQo7gnNmVKF-P3nwCLcB/s640/tarnblog.jpeg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SpuM-3_va0M/VxTN5LOSnuI/AAAAAAAAEHo/BR1PkoclG-AcHBSdNUQo7gnNmVKF-P3nwCLcB/s1600/tarnblog.jpeg)
My elbow rehab really seems to have taken a big step in the right direction these last couple of weeks. It is certainly feeling stronger all the time and I can now climb, for the most part, with virtually no discomfort at all. I am still uncertain and apprehensive, but it is extremely pleasing to see almost daily improvements.
The tricky part has been NOT to over do things. It has all been a huge 'learning curve' in lots of different ways. I'm used to big, tough and intense sessions. So the hard bit has been having to force myself to stop, even when everything feels fine. A very fine balance. On the one hand you want to gradually up the intensity, but on the other you are cautious of pushing things too far. Finding that middle ground, that seems to constantly be shifting, is tough work!
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDmzmLuRreU/VxTQQbM01BI/AAAAAAAAEH0/-C5Pk3BYl8QnS9A75XKJXYtyu5kVTBa3QCLcB/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-09-08+at+19.07.48.png) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZDmzmLuRreU/VxTQQbM01BI/AAAAAAAAEH0/-C5Pk3BYl8QnS9A75XKJXYtyu5kVTBa3QCLcB/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-09-08+at+19.07.48.png)Cantobre dreaming!So the plan for this trip is to just take each day as it comes and gradually test the waters. I confess to not having a huge clue as to where my performance levels are at currently. I still feel strong but from a fitness/endurance perspecitive I may be lagging behind a little.
We will be basing ourselves further up the gorge this time so commuting to the crag will be down to
the bare minimum, meaning we can focus on the climbing even more. One thing Jon and myself are quite keen for this time though is heading to check out the big multi pitch stuff in the Gorge du Jonte. While we drove up through this gorge a few times last year we didn't have the time to climb here. It will certainly provide something a little different, and the crags look mega!
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lbpQF9QHx8k/VxTTmMkN2CI/AAAAAAAAEII/1djZcOiyGDMtitY1OYyH-fAjL1APuB0NgCLcB/s320/SAM_0346.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lbpQF9QHx8k/VxTTmMkN2CI/AAAAAAAAEII/1djZcOiyGDMtitY1OYyH-fAjL1APuB0NgCLcB/s1600/SAM_0346.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Guess who's back in the saddle?!?[/td][/tr]
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Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Tarn 2.0 (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/05/tarn-20.html)
11 May 2016, 4:53 pm
Alongside discussing beta; injuries and the weather must rank as the top most talked about topics amongst climbers. I would hazard a guess that this is the same for most other countries climbing populus, and not just the British.
So with that in mind and seeing as my last two posts have started with an injury based theme I thought this one could start with the weather. Just to keep things interesting and balanced.
It's raining. Torrentially.
But we are not letting it dampen our spirits too much as we are all delighted to be back in this beautiful part of the world. The Gorges du Tarn.
I climbed for years hearing about this so called French climbing 'paradise' and of people coming out here time and time again. My brief trip last August made me see just why it gets this glowing reputation.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Et7ELt-0cMM/VzNR8O2leAI/AAAAAAAAEI0/WNIUGAmdpLgekV-vwHvwekbaWWCPA9Y6gCLcB/s640/IMG_2038.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Et7ELt-0cMM/VzNR8O2leAI/AAAAAAAAEI0/WNIUGAmdpLgekV-vwHvwekbaWWCPA9Y6gCLcB/s1600/IMG_2038.JPG)
So here we are. Back again and with a sizeable more chunk of time to play with. Unfortunately for all The Tarn's beauty and appeal, it does rain here too. One minute it could be shorts and shades, the next down jackets and scarves. A game that we are all to familiar with. Right now its full on waterproofs.
However the climbing is something special and the thought of jumping on the next route jotted down on the ticklist the following day, keeps the fires burning and psyche flowing.
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DH7BPOkJhEQ/VzNRakIzT4I/AAAAAAAAEIw/xjNUU_amAiEvuRMmJW0tO3YcSPtx6Za4QCLcB/s640/Little+Big+Boss.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DH7BPOkJhEQ/VzNRakIzT4I/AAAAAAAAEIw/xjNUU_amAiEvuRMmJW0tO3YcSPtx6Za4QCLcB/s1600/Little+Big+Boss.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]© Jon Clark[/td][/tr]
[/table]To be honest I am emmensely grateful that I am even out here and with the ability to actually be able to climb anything at all. There was a point a few weeks back when I was seriously beggining to doubt if my injury would heal up in time and if the whole trip would be a waste of time.
Thankfully as our leaving date got ever closer my elbow started to show rapid signs of improvement and I was able to increase the levels of my rehab and training. Even on the journey down here I was still apprehensive of just what I would be able to do and how I'd hold up. However after just a couple days of climbing I managed a route that even just a couple of weeks ago, was more than I could have ever hoped for.
It has now been over a week, climbing most days, and I am very much beggining to get back into the groove of things again. There is so much to do, the vast potential blows your mind. You'll be sat around during the evenings pondering and planning the next climbing day, thinking you have it all figured out. Then suddenly someone will remind you of another world class sector and you'll find yourself rearranging plans all over again. A rather nice predicament to be in though.
It is hard to say if it will be possible to tick all of my main goals out here, that I set myself at the start of the year. I am just happy to be climbing and thankful for the time to enjoy myself. Despite the rain!
Stayed tuned.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G6YZL0voij4/VzNSyEqpW4I/AAAAAAAAEJE/TTBfSW_oXvwWCMQOpJEr1maMtkrfgm3IQCLcB/s400/IMG_2167.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G6YZL0voij4/VzNSyEqpW4I/AAAAAAAAEJE/TTBfSW_oXvwWCMQOpJEr1maMtkrfgm3IQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2167.JPG)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pHMV8k0uJrY/VzNSkU0932I/AAAAAAAAEJA/6ZUQIw6kvHMJCaWgW2OmvfKozYhcEJrQgCLcB/s640/IMG_2175.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pHMV8k0uJrY/VzNSkU0932I/AAAAAAAAEJA/6ZUQIw6kvHMJCaWgW2OmvfKozYhcEJrQgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2175.JPG)
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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British on tour! (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/06/british-on-tour.html)
10 June 2016, 11:46 am
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b2eC2YdoFus/V1qOlTZimEI/AAAAAAAAEM8/ZRpSkN-6vRMbRpXXuRqCQeXsI8a2FcYrQCLcB/s640/IMG_2370.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b2eC2YdoFus/V1qOlTZimEI/AAAAAAAAEM8/ZRpSkN-6vRMbRpXXuRqCQeXsI8a2FcYrQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2370.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table]From the road the Tennessee sector rises up above your head and appears to be a sheer blank wall of formidable and intimidating rock. Even when stood at its base, at the first glance upward it looks to be blank still and hard to imagine where the routes could possibly go.
Then as you eyes slowly begin to adjust to the vast expanse of yellow, orange and grey limestone, the features gradually start to appear. You begin to see lines of weakness that weave their way through the rock and rise up and up into the sky.
I have said this before but it is crazy to think that something like this has been so perfectly sculptured for climbing. The holds perfectly shaped. Immaculate pockets, crimps, jugs, pinches, undercuts, all that fit the shape of the aspiring climbers hand like a glove. This wall has it all and all in a perfect succession that end up yielding some of the finest selection of routes I have ever climbed. These walls have been purposely built for climbing.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fikDB3ifnN0/V1qOP32KrmI/AAAAAAAAEMs/9ms9soY1xo0GpgMA7f8vyTrhON30JPn9ACLcB/s640/IMG_2308.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fikDB3ifnN0/V1qOP32KrmI/AAAAAAAAEMs/9ms9soY1xo0GpgMA7f8vyTrhON30JPn9ACLcB/s1600/IMG_2308.JPG)
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HShIyCPIyMA/V1qEpLeYoPI/AAAAAAAAELk/eMV-k5ALZM0gPAOY4llrIKe6iYuJ9pNKACLcB/s640/Grand+Toit.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HShIyCPIyMA/V1qEpLeYoPI/AAAAAAAAELk/eMV-k5ALZM0gPAOY4llrIKe6iYuJ9pNKACLcB/s1600/Grand+Toit.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fwUN1jyuNnk/V1qX4GxLdUI/AAAAAAAAEPU/I9CUXP0IuDQW2oXrJINu5ui9flXZRfrCwCLcB/s400/FullSizeRender.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fwUN1jyuNnk/V1qX4GxLdUI/AAAAAAAAEPU/I9CUXP0IuDQW2oXrJINu5ui9flXZRfrCwCLcB/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg)
My month in France was without doubt one of the quickest months of my life and I now find myself back at home and reflecting on what was undoubtedly a wild few weeks. For me this trip was all about testing the waters (forgive the pun) with my elbow and just trying to climb in whatever capacity my body allowed. I still felt strong but honestly had no idea how things would go once consistent climbing on a daily basis kicked in.
French life is such a breeze. There is nothing better than waking up, chilling in the sunshine over breakfast, heading to the local bakery for fresh, warm crossiants before a day of climbing with friends, on spectacular rock amongst utterly breath taking scenery.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G1X_5GlxVsQ/V1qWnqacLXI/AAAAAAAAEPI/OSmGxgV22xM1XPENRAzMsxLBaHeJEJGygCLcB/s400/IMG_2305.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G1X_5GlxVsQ/V1qWnqacLXI/AAAAAAAAEPI/OSmGxgV22xM1XPENRAzMsxLBaHeJEJGygCLcB/s1600/IMG_2305.JPG)
I am so thankful for the way in which my injury held up and utterly amazed at what I managed to haul my a$$ up. I came back feeling fitter and stronger than ever before, which is even more bizarre in some ways, and I really cannot wait for the next trip. Wherever that will be...
I have thrown together a series of random diary notes and thoughts, jotted down during our rare rest days and the forced downtime while waiting for the numerous storms to pass over. Thanks to my buddy and travel partner Jon Clark for providing some pretty sweet photos as ever!
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I5XB4e8enRQ/V1qDgejFlVI/AAAAAAAAEK0/7JlemMOTLz0knG64sKQyVzmegxVKtnnmwCLcB/s320/Tarn-8.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-I5XB4e8enRQ/V1qDgejFlVI/AAAAAAAAEK0/7JlemMOTLz0knG64sKQyVzmegxVKtnnmwCLcB/s1600/Tarn-8.jpg)(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--aCjdJbIoRs/V1qEPEImgDI/AAAAAAAAELY/2iJo0XG7EzMwHIhEEbuuFXb2Gu18CljqwCLcB/s320/Tarn-9.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--aCjdJbIoRs/V1qEPEImgDI/AAAAAAAAELY/2iJo0XG7EzMwHIhEEbuuFXb2Gu18CljqwCLcB/s1600/Tarn-9.jpg)[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8RUOGOTSTfs/V1qO5NqOJ1I/AAAAAAAAENQ/MQPpvsPM36gP2w2PGDMS95PTaC0azyIsACLcB/s640/IMG_2222.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8RUOGOTSTfs/V1qO5NqOJ1I/AAAAAAAAENQ/MQPpvsPM36gP2w2PGDMS95PTaC0azyIsACLcB/s1600/IMG_2222.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Théorème de Thalès, 7c
©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_THcDuvUc4/V1qM_q14R2I/AAAAAAAAEMY/BMqqJxw4OJ0kbIyAzA56AMBBfR-R7HNnQCLcB/s640/Tarn-15.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5_THcDuvUc4/V1qM_q14R2I/AAAAAAAAEMY/BMqqJxw4OJ0kbIyAzA56AMBBfR-R7HNnQCLcB/s1600/Tarn-15.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V3EhtJq2Ttk/V1qPiA9UCTI/AAAAAAAAENs/bYvTnwfuVhEQzdATnWUVS1X88SyPBBdJACKgB/s400/IMG_2226.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V3EhtJq2Ttk/V1qPiA9UCTI/AAAAAAAAENs/bYvTnwfuVhEQzdATnWUVS1X88SyPBBdJACKgB/s1600/IMG_2226.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Crag essentials...[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1VYVCyb7IpA/V1qUHoUMVaI/AAAAAAAAEO0/bSGvHFD09wcjIqNCDbO9eWEgDHhjb5cagCLcB/s400/IMG_2178.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1VYVCyb7IpA/V1qUHoUMVaI/AAAAAAAAEO0/bSGvHFD09wcjIqNCDbO9eWEgDHhjb5cagCLcB/s1600/IMG_2178.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pizza La Muse![/td][/tr]
[/table]The Jonte has been calling us since we arrived. We see its huge cliffs standing watch over our campsite every morning we wake. From this distance it is hard to judge the scale of these cliffs but they are undoubtedly impressive. Even more impressive though is how old some of these routes are and how fearless the first ascentionists must have been back in the day.
Flicking through the guidebook the size starts to become a reality and our mouths water at the prospect of getting up there. One route in particular was on our list from the start.
El monstro del muesli!
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I393ZTciva8/V1qOa49XaII/AAAAAAAAEM0/jiisQAKWZD4cIdrvlOPBIacESdWnb3NgQCLcB/s400/IMG_2312.JPG) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I393ZTciva8/V1qOa49XaII/AAAAAAAAEM0/jiisQAKWZD4cIdrvlOPBIacESdWnb3NgQCLcB/s1600/IMG_2312.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]JC scouting out the huge sectors that form The Jonte![/td][/tr]
[/table]A 45 metre 8a with a cool name and rumoured to be a classic. When we eventually made the sweaty hike into the crag we were greeted by full blazing sun and scorching heat. Nice, but not conducive to pulling down hard! After a lengthy debate we made the choice of 'screw it, we're here now' and set off up the baking limestone with not much optimism.
45 sweaty minutes later and with almost a full bag of chalk gone, I made it to the chain in one piece! It was a fight, but a hugely memorable one. The view from the top was even more spectacular and I sat up there, slumped in my harness for a short while and breathed in the cool mountain breeze.
We have all been there before but those occasions when something ends up going your way after completely dismissing all expectations, are quite often the sweetest. Once back on the ground I looked up and realised the entire crag had come into the shade! Typical.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-GyH5FFaXo/V1qO3e9tb3I/AAAAAAAAENI/ceBDfTau9FISZwxyJsXBsKhqGwKatI1PgCLcB/s640/IMG_2367.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-GyH5FFaXo/V1qO3e9tb3I/AAAAAAAAENI/ceBDfTau9FISZwxyJsXBsKhqGwKatI1PgCLcB/s1600/IMG_2367.JPG)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d1_rDYks2Q8/V1qR1QL30qI/AAAAAAAAEOQ/ZEXAB36Pk9Y_Gs9GtHTDRRiDOgEKS7iAwCLcB/s640/IMG_2298.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d1_rDYks2Q8/V1qR1QL30qI/AAAAAAAAEOQ/ZEXAB36Pk9Y_Gs9GtHTDRRiDOgEKS7iAwCLcB/s1600/IMG_2298.JPG)
On-sighting was never my bag. I never practised it enough. Never went abroad. Was never fit enough, and always got ridiculously pumped. A few years ago now I adapted my climbing style and suddenly became hooked on the big pump fests. My eyes opened up to the fun game of on-sight climbing. The unknown aspect and thrill that climbing up a piece of rock, first go, with absolutely no prior knowledge of the moves ahead, can bring. One minute you can be shaking out in a nice relaxed rest, French blowing the chalk cooly from your finger tips. Then within a few seconds you will be fighting for your life on slopey non holds, searching frantically for something to grab, 10 metres above your last bolt. Staring at a monster fall.
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VhMRSFpaw8w/V1qR_SmIKSI/AAAAAAAAEOc/a8_7L7_mano_8NDOgJrvVFoHBe2RXaqswCLcB/s640/IMG_2480.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VhMRSFpaw8w/V1qR_SmIKSI/AAAAAAAAEOc/a8_7L7_mano_8NDOgJrvVFoHBe2RXaqswCLcB/s1600/IMG_2480.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table]Fight or flight mode in full effect. The choice is simple, press on or take the plunge. Your brain goes into overdrive, trying to work out the most efficient sequence. Your lungs are working at full capacity, your heart is skipping beats and the oncoming lactic-acid laps at the door to every fibre in your body.
Climbing in this style is a real rush for me. It may sound like a living nightmare but it is an exhilarating experience and seriously rewarding if you make it to the top on that first go, after such a hard fought battle.
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O3XjxRSuw3E/V1qRR0NbPZI/AAAAAAAAEOE/Y0keAcrDkUEa7ZndEiWldBYoY-TB_lDhACLcB/s640/Tarn-17.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O3XjxRSuw3E/V1qRR0NbPZI/AAAAAAAAEOE/Y0keAcrDkUEa7ZndEiWldBYoY-TB_lDhACLcB/s1600/Tarn-17.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]"Priez pour nous"
©JonClark[/td][/tr]
[/table]Tonight is curry night. We all need it. My arms are feeling a little jaded after topping out a 60 metre 8b on the Tennessee sector earlier this afternoon. Yesterday was 30 degrees, sunny blue skies. Today is 8 degrees, gale force winds and torrential 'showers'. This morning was way too cold to climb so we wait only to try again in vain after lunch. Jon then gets lucky with a sweet on-sight of Mosaïk Man and the sun slowly begins to warm our bones. I decide to jump back on 'Le plaisir qui démonte Extension ' while there is a chance the weather window will hold. This is some route. A real beauty with a series of complex and fun boulder problems that link together up a gently steepening wall. The climbing this time around feels almost effortless and I pull past the final crux and can finally relax on jugs of joy.
Then, out of no where the skies turn black and within seconds I am blasted with huge golf ball sized rain drops. I have no option but to take sanctuary in the small cave two bolts from the top and wait for the 'shower' to pass. 10 minutes later the monsoon subsides and I sprint up the easy finish to the belay and then it is back to base to dry off!
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmgwlOndFkQ/V1qPfX7MFnI/AAAAAAAAENk/wpNMxkCUCGALfwGepq09PpCkcYcAeBRSACKgB/s320/IMG_2171.JPG) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmgwlOndFkQ/V1qPfX7MFnI/AAAAAAAAENk/wpNMxkCUCGALfwGepq09PpCkcYcAeBRSACKgB/s1600/IMG_2171.JPG)There are still so many routes to go at here. So many hard lines that I would love to put some real effort into. It will be some time before I visit this place again but I'll be back one day for sure. For now I shall be hanging out in the UK for a while and hopefully jetting off again in the not to distant future.
Thanks to my partners Jon and Pete and finally a huge shout to my sponsors Mammut (https://www.mammut.ch/GB/en_GB?clear=true) for allowing me the time and means to head out here.
Check out my destination article in the spring addition of CLIMB (http://www.climbmagazine.com/) magazine for a more in-depth look into the Tarn and surrounding areas. AND if you have yet to visit, make it your next trip. You will not regret it!
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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5.10 Quantum review (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2016/07/510-quantum-review.html)
12 July 2016, 1:30 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R7D8tHgtils/V1FVRTE0jhI/AAAAAAAAEKM/Yzu1XNRAwYoFhFr-Q36IECps93ZHS72DACLcB/s640/quantumblog.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R7D8tHgtils/V1FVRTE0jhI/AAAAAAAAEKM/Yzu1XNRAwYoFhFr-Q36IECps93ZHS72DACLcB/s1600/quantumblog.jpg)
Now firstly I never actually owned a pair of the old style purple Quantum’s, although I did in fact once try a pair on many years ago. So while I am unable to comment directly from experience on the comparisons between the old and new versions, I can give a run down on the key qualities of the new design and offer a comparison to some of the other shoes in the 5.10 lineup that have similar attributes.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgLAWvLQlW0/V1FZ0V9a3ZI/AAAAAAAAEKk/ndz8HYatuGcuWQA2OY1DG2o-A5Lz2SmLQCLcB/s640/007.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HgLAWvLQlW0/V1FZ0V9a3ZI/AAAAAAAAEKk/ndz8HYatuGcuWQA2OY1DG2o-A5Lz2SmLQCLcB/s1600/007.jpg)
Below is what the crew at the Tennie HQ have to say:
"For the redevelopment of the classic Quantum, we worked with the Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, to develop an all-around performance shoe for any climbing setting. We started with a Stealth® C4™ outsole, the Hubers tackle a diverse range of climbs with many different angles and rock textures and C4™ is our most versatile compound. The shoe has a stiff midsole and lined Clarino synthetic upper, so it stays comfortable for extended periods of wear. The tongue is a perforated ariaprene, which conforms to the foot and provides unmatched breathability. The Quantum is built on a new last; it is slightly downturned and a bit wider than our traditional downturned lasts allowing your foot to sit in a more natural position."
I first picked up a pair of the re-designed Quantum towards the end of last Autumn. It was late in the season and the limestone was beginning to give way to the onslaught of the winter months.
However before it gave up the ghost entirely, I did get to give them a few run outs on my project at the time.
They are a stiff, down turned boot that offer unparalleled support. They are a slightly wider last than before and come with a very sharp edge making standing on and pushing off small microscopic edges a dream. The design of the heel cup is all new compared its predecessor, feeling secure and tight around your foot, with zero dead space.
The route I briefly tried towards the end of the last season was Evolution at Raven Tor. Anyone that knows anything about this route will know of the nature of its series of small holds throughout. The route obviously requires exceptionally strong fingers but it equally requires precise, intricate footwork. The Quantum felt like the perfect tool for the job from the moment I first gave them a run at the wall. The C4 sole brings a huge degree of sensitivity and stiffness throughout the entire shoe, enabling you to really generate some serious push throughout the toe box. The down turned toe gives them an aggressive feel, which along with the stiff edge, enables you to wrap your toes around those micro edges.
Two other stand out features are the perforated tongues which give a very comfy and snug like feel and a lacing system that does the job of maintaining the tension as the laces are tightened up. A small detail maybe, but something that just adds that little bit extra.
It was not long before the crux moves on the headwall of Evo started to become much more amenable and I suddenly found myself linking over two thirds of the route in a oner.
Unfortunately that was the last time I got to use them as the season quickly came to an end, winter set in and shortly after Christmas so did my injury.
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eQOgg58IcvU/V1FYnxvN0DI/AAAAAAAAEKY/vEOmRgR_Z6UMAAs9mknLLwbjmI0YljtugCLcB/s640/IMG_2395.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eQOgg58IcvU/V1FYnxvN0DI/AAAAAAAAEKY/vEOmRgR_Z6UMAAs9mknLLwbjmI0YljtugCLcB/s1600/IMG_2395.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[/table]However, I made sure they were apart of my line-up for my recent trip back to the Gorges du Tarn. I had a feeling they would suit the style of climbing out there and this proved to be the case.
I have to admit I am a big big fan of the Teams. They are my go to shoe for a lot of stuff. Particularly abroad, but I made sure to give the Quantum's their fair chance and they honestly felt at home straight away. Performing just how I imagined them too on the steep pocketed walls of the gorge.
Perhaps not a shoe (to begin with) for smearing, slab style routes but I am sure once bedded in and softened slightly they would feel equally good on such terrain.
One thing to note is that thanks to the Clarino synthetic uppers, these shoes will maintain their shape and barely offer any stretch so keep that in mind when trying on.
Obviously, as always with climbing shoes, there will be various and conflicting opinions but there is no doubt in my mind that this is another top quality, high performing shoe in the 5.10 range.
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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The Trilogy (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-trilogy.html)
13 August 2017, 8:40 pm
Hajj is the name for the annual pilgrimage to Mecca. A fitting name for a route that brings to a close the entire Mecca saga for myself. It is a journey that started back in 2013 when I first climbed that famous 8b+ groove line at Raven Tor that so many people aspire to.
tuk
Later that year I managed to pull myself up the ‘Mecca Extension’ and with it my first 8c. Next on the list was the neighbouring and much harder extension, Kaabah, 8c+. Over the course of a couple of seasons, the first of which just about mentally broke me, I finally made it up that section of wall too, in early June of 2015. This one was a serious emotional roller coaster for me and probably the only route that has ever had me on the verge of tears when I finally made it to the top and clipped the chains.
So that left me with just Hajj. The far left extension. Much less travelled than its two sister routes and rumoured to be 'tough'...
At the time I pretty much had no interest in trying. I think it had only ever had a couple of ascents at that point still and to be honest I’d kind of seriously had enough of that whole piece of rock.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nggznP7LoJo/WZCqgo2F8vI/AAAAAAAAETE/3IvG5DKizTQSKAPoHHCxolNdehfqv_bbwCLcBGAs/s640/DSCN2189+%25281%2529.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nggznP7LoJo/WZCqgo2F8vI/AAAAAAAAETE/3IvG5DKizTQSKAPoHHCxolNdehfqv_bbwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSCN2189+%25281%2529.jpg)
Fast forward to spring of this year. After a year of many changes involving work and moving into my own place in Tideswell, I found myself in a truly fantastic and privilege position of finally being able to go climbing properly again. I am of course incredible grateful to my long term sponsors Mammut for their unwavering support and for allowing me the freedom to pursue my climbing career and dreams. They really are a terrific team to work with and I honestly cannot thank them enough.
I was keen to get stuck into something hard again and give myself a real test. Hajj suddenly came into the forefront of my mind and the psyche began to bubble up inside. After all it seemed rude to not get involved, especially as I now live only a 2 minute drive from the cruicble of hard Peak limestone…
After spending a short period of just enjoying having the time to climb again, I turned my attention to project mode. Mecca went down again with relative ease, considering it had been close to 2 years since my last ascent.
Hajj itself however was a different story. On first acquaintance with the crux, I was barely able to pull on the holds let alone do the moves. It was a shock to the system without a doubt.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qQC5TrOf8s4/WYxnWUMXtgI/AAAAAAAAERo/duQuFf8P2uUwQ1Miuk8S0o09eTbz6SJfQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_5404.JPG) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qQC5TrOf8s4/WYxnWUMXtgI/AAAAAAAAERo/duQuFf8P2uUwQ1Miuk8S0o09eTbz6SJfQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5404.JPG)©Ladoza.co.uk
The hand holds on that vertical shield of black limestone are perhaps some of the most horrendous grips I have ever pulled on. Made only worse by the sheer lack of initial footholds. It is probably about as close to standing on fresh air as it gets. Add into the mix that they are also the sharpest, most painful holds I have probably ever pulled on, and we have quite the feast. A series of razor blade, credit card thin fingertip crimps and tenuous half pad undercuts in the vertical world make for a serious treat (if you have a fetish for that sort of thing) and roughly gives you a HARD font 7B+ ish? boulder problem to negotiate.
But despite all of this I was psyched regardless and within a couple of sessions I had linked the entire crux section to the top. It felt good to be back trying hard again. Seeing that progression all climbers thrive off, from virtually impossible to maybe ‘just’ possible to okay I can do this. The project process. We all know the story.
I had a feeling that with a small bit of luck it might not actually take that long to redpoint. Especially considering how wired I had the bottom 8b+ section and with the bonus of having time on my side again…
However routes like this rarely go to plan and I spent the next few weeks, which slowly turned into the next couple of months, battling my way literally inch by inch up the final 8ft section of rock. It was certainly not going to go down easily.
These routes require patience, tenacity, commitment and full body engagement, not to mention the right air temperature, breeze etc along with the ability to feel zero amount of pure mind numbing PAIN! We battled with conditions that included everything from extreme heat, and jungle like humidity to the freezing cold and blasting arctic winds. Actually some of my best attempts ended up coming during absolute monsoons. Bizarre.
I slowly started coming to the conclusion that these type of routes are just simply not my style. Or maybe they are, I no longer can really tell. Maybe I was just too eager? Maybe I was taking the wrong approach or it was all simply just a head game.
However with each passing session I was getting clearly getting fitter and still making obvious progress. Whether this progress was doing a big link, finding some new and intricate way to hold on or even just an obvious sense of feeling stronger on individual moves and the route in general.
Finding a new marginal foothold, making a tiny fingertip adjustment, all small pieces of encouragement to take home, think on and keep the psyche burning.
In the end it was one of these micro beta changes that probably made all the difference.
I was so appreciative of having the time and freedom to go climbing that even on the worst of sessions I remained as upbeat as possibly and reminded myself that this was meant to be fun.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6CT-PKSMCeE/WYxnffW7WqI/AAAAAAAAERs/E8hZ3X58OcovB3djwze5ucshm4Oj80mggCLcBGAs/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6CT-PKSMCeE/WYxnffW7WqI/AAAAAAAAERs/E8hZ3X58OcovB3djwze5ucshm4Oj80mggCLcBGAs/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg)© Ladoza.co.uk
Kaabah taught me a lot of things about myself, my climbing and how to deal with the pressures of performing at your limits. Having that experience to draw upon helped hugely. I didn’t beat myself up over falling, I refused to let my mind wander off and be distracted by failure, but tried to keep a clear head, clear of all doubt, bad vibes and completely focused in on the end goal. It would go when it was ready.
It's more than likely that constantly keeping a clear state of mind and blocking out any negative thoughts was potentially harder than doing the crux moves of the route itself!
It could have easily gone about a month ago and maybe it should have, but for some reason or other fate decided to drag the process out by another few weeks.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaIe7P9dCv4/WZClXds9K-I/AAAAAAAAES0/BK5MlbiYx88NC_yTlxPDCr6_Op2BRr1JgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_5402.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZaIe7P9dCv4/WZClXds9K-I/AAAAAAAAES0/BK5MlbiYx88NC_yTlxPDCr6_Op2BRr1JgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5402.jpg)
All in all it took close to 40 attempts and in the process taking my Mecca account to 122 ascents. Some will look at that and call it madness, obsessive, ridiculous, blah blah blah, but for me it was worth it.
It was worth all the pain, both mental and physical, all the early morning starts, all the split fingertips and every frustrating fall.
I am pleasantly satisfied but reckon I am well and truly done with that section of wall now!
It should go without saying that special thanks should go to my Dad who was there to hold my ropes for pretty much every session along the way. The whole process would have been a million times harder and more than likely longer without his ever readiness to belay and support at the bottom.
What’s next? I dunno. One thing for sure is I will not be making my Hajj an annual thing!
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F6zod8Oxopg/WY1yPtSkIuI/AAAAAAAAER8/3030NjhFme4XWc0ZxXRvbhCINonzonZqwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_5394.JPG) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F6zod8Oxopg/WY1yPtSkIuI/AAAAAAAAER8/3030NjhFme4XWc0ZxXRvbhCINonzonZqwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5394.JPG)
©Ladoza.co.uk
Source: ethan walker (http://ethanwalkerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
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Nice post. [emoji106][emoji106]