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Web guide has been taken offline (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/09/web-guide-has-been-taken-offline.html)
3 September 2010, 10:18 pm
I have taken the web guide offlline. If you really really really need a copy I will email one out to you. Post up a comment here to request.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7709122760355311334?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Cuilcagh Mountain (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/09/cuilcagh-mountain.html)
14 September 2010, 9:18 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TI89oESzYMI/AAAAAAAAApU/f6-k2BXohFE/s320/Copy+of+IMG_4791.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TI89oESzYMI/AAAAAAAAApU/f6-k2BXohFE/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_4791.JPG)Went up on Saturday before last to check out the famous Cuilcagh gritstone boulders. Driving up in the rain it didn't look good but it was dry in the carpark but once we reached the boulders - a mere 80 minute walk up the hill - they were shrouded in mist, it wasn't raining but the thick damp mist meant the boulders were never going to dry.
Still we were impressed, beautiful rock and a lot of it. We only explorered the first two boulder fields, there are at least two more. The big boulder is big. Home to some incredible lines. One of the most impressive boulders around.
Anyone else been?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5039697464388409418?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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More Grit (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/09/more-grit.html)
14 September 2010, 9:48 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TI9Ep5bTCeI/AAAAAAAAApk/qBtKGFPj8JY/s400/Copy+of+IMG_4879.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TI9Ep5bTCeI/AAAAAAAAApk/qBtKGFPj8JY/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_4879.JPG)Back up again last Saturday to check out more of the grit this time got a tour with some of the locals - who have been bouldering up there for the last 13 years! We visited some of the more roadside venues in on off rain and were impressed. A few boulders and two very impressive walls of minto grit. I will be back to get more photos and to climb some of the amazing looking problems.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3424888748419564415?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Waterford (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/09/waterford.html)
22 September 2010, 6:47 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOWLB-ZPI/AAAAAAAAAqE/0j7KzK8c5_g/s640/Copy+of+IMG_5096.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOWLB-ZPI/AAAAAAAAAqE/0j7KzK8c5_g/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5096.JPG)Went on a solo mission on Saturday to check a few areas in Waterford. One was OK but the other, to my suprise and pleasure, was great. Lovely slopey rock. At least 20 problems with potential for a lot of variations and linkups.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOVMdrAGI/AAAAAAAAAp8/IcILOI-U6eE/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5080.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOVMdrAGI/AAAAAAAAAp8/IcILOI-U6eE/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5080.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOSt7vOdI/AAAAAAAAAp0/dN_eGmnLe0A/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5044.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOSt7vOdI/AAAAAAAAAp0/dN_eGmnLe0A/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5044.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOQOeIRgI/AAAAAAAAAps/u4Ygq1ZN5nw/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5000.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpOQOeIRgI/AAAAAAAAAps/u4Ygq1ZN5nw/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5000.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8709931719250632667?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo - new river (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/09/glendo-new-river.html)
22 September 2010, 8:20 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkOph0StI/AAAAAAAAAqk/bpECAFcz3Ko/s320/Copy+of+IMG_4949.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkOph0StI/AAAAAAAAAqk/bpECAFcz3Ko/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_4949.JPG)The river has seriously changed course recently. The flat grass between the trace and Big Jim is awash with stones.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkAfbmRHI/AAAAAAAAAqU/teWxghX7m_w/s320/Copy+of+IMG_3637.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkAfbmRHI/AAAAAAAAAqU/teWxghX7m_w/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_3637.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkLrQY-hI/AAAAAAAAAqc/X6k1WMNfyaw/s320/Copy+of+IMG_4936.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TJpkLrQY-hI/AAAAAAAAAqc/X6k1WMNfyaw/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_4936.JPG)The child came too. She mostly tried slabs.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2519677605818980350?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Historic information (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/10/historic-information.html)
2 October 2010, 3:39 pm
Should the info that i have about who did what when be in the introduction to the relevent area or should it all be one chunk in a history section at the start or finish?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8779515081540037984?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Slieve Binnian (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/10/slieve-binnian.html)
2 October 2010, 3:54 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdVVQigerI/AAAAAAAAAqw/7mjR_90SQWA/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5132.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdVVQigerI/AAAAAAAAAqw/7mjR_90SQWA/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5132.JPG)Last week braved the walk in finally. Was a good forecast and it turned out very nice. Still windy though but its pretty exposed up there.
Did the loop from Carrick Little to South Tor to North Tor. Advantage of this is that it gets the uphill out of the way in one sharp shock. Took us 1 hour 20 mins. Not racing but not spacing either. South Tor is good has a few really nice problems. North Tor is great there is loads. We didn't even get time to try everything we wanted. In fact there was whole boulders we didn't even get a chance to check out. The rock is nice. Not Mall Hill nice but good rough granite. Has a good few pockets, its an big coarse grain. There is an ad on UTV starring Ricky and Craig on North Tor doing real climbing. They got a helicopter up the lazy cunts.
There will be loads of info in the guide about the Mournes bouldering. Yes the walkins are tough but its worth it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2325395452524466121?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Wet day in Wicklow (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/10/wet-day-in-wicklow.html)
2 October 2010, 3:54 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdVXtQL6pI/AAAAAAAAAq0/Vk1OjG3OdQM/s640/Copy+of+m5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdVXtQL6pI/AAAAAAAAAq0/Vk1OjG3OdQM/s1600/Copy+of+m5.jpg)
Forecast was too dodge to drive to any of the place I need to go so I went down to Wicklow. Wandered around Annalecka in the pissing rain wondering where it all went wrong. Looked at the two white boulders visible from the parking spot. 6 foot high. Wandered around on the Brockagh Ridge cause it was too early to go home and i hadn't never really been up there and that means that there is a huge boulder field up there - at least thats now it is in my head. There isn't. There are a few boulders but they were far away. Some day. Took a nice panorame of th Glendasan bouldering. Would be a shot worth taking on a sunny day. Which mean I have to go back.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4850169461014402294?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Google Street view - stop the car (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/10/google-street-view-stop-car.html)
2 October 2010, 4:33 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdeQCcjI1I/AAAAAAAAAq4/99EtNyMp90Q/s640/streetview.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TKdeQCcjI1I/AAAAAAAAAq4/99EtNyMp90Q/s1600/streetview.JPG)Google street view Ireland went live yesterday and its incredible. I assumed it would only cover main roads in cities but that is defintely not the case, its seems like almost every little boreen in the country is covered. This is going to make finding new boulders a hell of a lot easier. Stop the car!
http://maps.google.ie/?ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Dublin,+County+Fingal&ll=51.736809,-9.758263&spn=0,0.076818&z=14&layer=c&cbll=51.723206,-9.757772&panoid=kQiQjbkMAOinLKZ3deCe5A&cbp=13,226.78,,0,-17.5
Check this for starters. Comment if you find any nice looking rocks.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3369630828084145106?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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White Bog (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/10/white-bog.html)
11 October 2010, 8:34 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxFwPnnOI/AAAAAAAAArE/_1kgF6mAuf0/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5566.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxFwPnnOI/AAAAAAAAArE/_1kgF6mAuf0/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5566.JPG)John and I hit the White Bog in the Cooleys last Saturday. We expected sun but got mist and very strong winds instead. John got stuck into the harder problems while I got stuck into some Turkish Delight. I found the lines good but the rock is very sharp. Too sharp for me. Legged it up to Windy Gap (it wasn't) to take a few shots only for my camera to run out of juice. Met two mates of John's from Belfast up there.(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxHzBQi3I/AAAAAAAAArM/Xj5MzH9fves/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5603.JPG)
Some pretty heavily brushed rock. Really shows up on the dark gabbro.(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxG67H6iI/AAAAAAAAArI/IuFc68DjwYk/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5592.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxG67H6iI/AAAAAAAAArI/IuFc68DjwYk/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5592.JPG)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxDtyNz-I/AAAAAAAAArA/TS2Flf-jtUI/s320/Copy+of+IMG_5621.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TLNxDtyNz-I/AAAAAAAAArA/TS2Flf-jtUI/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_5621.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2219988800307826012?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Mall Hill (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/mall-hill.html)
2 November 2010, 6:02 pm
Spent 2 days in Mall Hill this week. Was good.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1650424395791859009?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Doolin/Toit le Cul de Clare (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/doolintoit-le-cul-de-clare.html)
2 November 2010, 6:02 pm
Was in Doolin for a few days, weather was woeful, very windy and rainy. The climbing was soaked. It wasn't really possible to get down to the ledges even at low tide as there was a big sea running.
On the way home we called into Toit le Cul de Clare in east Clare. It was soaking as well. Didn't have high hopes, it didn't look too bad I suppose. Not great though. Have to wonder how Pierre found the place, it really is in the middle of nowhere. Anyone ever been?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4551404254106816382?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Donegal (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/donegal.html)
2 November 2010, 6:02 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRsf5TgoI/AAAAAAAAArU/nLPXtpp57Hg/s400/Copy+of+IMG_6275.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRsf5TgoI/AAAAAAAAArU/nLPXtpp57Hg/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_6275.JPG)(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRrilxTsI/AAAAAAAAArQ/rrhdRWxvsxM/s400/Copy+of+IMG_6164.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRrilxTsI/AAAAAAAAArQ/rrhdRWxvsxM/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_6164.JPG)Headed up on a solo mission to Donegal. With the ambitious plan of visiting every area in the county (bar Polldoo). I fell at the last hurdle as I wasn't able to find Rubinoid Point. The directions in the guide are woeful, you would be very lucky to find them using it. Those directions have been around for 5 years, just goes to show either that no one tries to go there. After wasting time searching for a while I head to Dunaff Bay on the other side of Inishowen, its a really nice spot. Lovely wave washed granite that is smooth but still has some bite. Loads to do there. I was very pleasantly surprised. Didn't have time to go to Fanad Head which is a few km across the water but a massive drive away.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRtPEUONI/AAAAAAAAArY/rtWqxK0VhYs/s640/Copy+of+m13.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNBRtPEUONI/AAAAAAAAArY/rtWqxK0VhYs/s1600/Copy+of+m13.jpg)
Had curry chips in the Chineser in Bunbeg - best I have ever had.
Spent all of the next day wandering around in the pissing rain looking at wet rock. Then in the evening did the long drive to Malin Beg. Drove over Glengesh Pass on what must be the steepest road in Ireland. After a diversion causeed by a landslide I arrived in Malin Beg. It felt like the end of the world. The hostel owner said it would take over 3 hours to drive from Malin Beg in the south west to Culdaff in the north east.
The weather was better in the morning, checked out Malin Beg, thought it was pretty limited to be honest. Then went on to Muckros Head which was wet and wavy, checked out some of the bouldering that had been previously documented, I thought it looked shite. Rock was sharp I suppose the lines where ok. Miles of this sort of thing on Inishmore. Maybe some of the stuff under the cliff proper is better.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7925085194670389155?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glemac (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/glemac.html)
7 November 2010, 10:19 am
Went to Glenmac yesterday, nice and early so managed to get the best of the day. I managed to get a few shots before the cloud rolled in. Explored all the way up the valley to the cliffs at the top. The boulders just below the crag aren't up to much. There are some problems to be done but the rock isn't great. The 'room' beside Lucky Me has some impressive - but very hard and blank - aretes and one more doable problem. The ground was very very damp. There was a huge wet streak on the Wow Prow steep end. The problem to the right of the Wow Prow ie. to the left of John's Problem looks great. I think Ped did, at least tried the jump start ie. jump to the slopey bulge and mantle. The sit start looks incredible. Hard but possible. Pure compression moves on slopey holds. Probably a much nicer problem than the Wow Prow.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-944815153838811431?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendasan (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/glendasan.html)
11 November 2010, 10:31 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNvFpe2df4I/AAAAAAAAArc/kdqOZINeZHI/s400/IMG_6684+-+Copy.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNvFpe2df4I/AAAAAAAAArc/kdqOZINeZHI/s1600/IMG_6684+-+Copy.JPG)When on a photo mission. The goal was living the dream but we decided it would be too wet under the trees. So decided to head for the southside of Glendasan to catch the last bit of sun which we did just. It moved up the hillside at walking pace. We where all perloxed by the problem to the right of Ped's Dyno "so it goes". Tried 'behind the lines' not a bad problem really and then tried Ahad in the darkening. Ahab is hard. 6b my bollox. Go one or two shots so not a total disaster but the lesson is that you need to get out early in Wicklow in winter to get good light.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNvFqkc8RmI/AAAAAAAAArg/W1_aS3uOXZE/s400/IMG_6692+-+Copy.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TNvFqkc8RmI/AAAAAAAAArg/W1_aS3uOXZE/s1600/IMG_6692+-+Copy.JPG)
Paul on Behind the lines and Diarmuid on Ahab.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5291369049679104003?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Lough Bray/Stonecutters/Sad and Lonely/Glendo (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/11/lough-braystonecutterssad-and.html)
13 November 2010, 10:37 pm
Got an early start and took some self portaits on Away from the numbers. They turned out shit as the arete was in shade and the background was bright. Lesson learnt. Better on a more overcast day. Similar problems in Stonecutters. Was very boggy around Sad and Lonely Boulder. Got to Glendo and it was getting cloudy. There was a good few people around - over a dozen I'd say. Did a few problems on Big Jim and it started raining so I headed on.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4124880933439938596?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Fireworks Boulder in Doolin (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/12/fireworks-boulder-in-doolin.html)
1 December 2010, 1:11 pm
Does anyone have any photos of the Fireworks boulder in Doolin?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4314695636851684123?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Fairhead (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/12/fairhead.html)
2 December 2010, 11:36 pm
Finally made it up to the Head. Paul and I got the full tour of Murlough and Rathlin Wall area from Rob Hunter. Saw a lot of steep crimpy rock. Wasn't really my cup of tea but the wads obviously love it. Where going to camp but decided to stay in the hostel. Next morning went around Murlough and tried to draw a map, its more on a conceptual level than cartography but anyway. It started to snow as we where leaving.
There is a place in Ballycastle, a Chinese restaurant, they do the standard buffet thing but you can also for £4 get a plastic contained and you fill it with whatever you want from the buffet once you can close the lid you are golden. I targeted meat - no pointless carbs for me - and was unable to finish mine. So worth checking out. No photos sorry forgot.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6940941489720317421?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Guide nearly finished (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/12/guide-nearly-finished.html)
12 December 2010, 11:53 pm
The guide is nearly finished just another week or two. So if anyone has any last minute information or photos now is the time to send it on....(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7110327202748836287?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Grades (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/12/grades.html)
17 December 2010, 12:32 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4521690720418795352?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Done (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/done.html)
6 January 2011, 10:51 am
The guide is done and has been sent to the printers. It's due back on the 6th of Feburary but I'm sure there will be some delays along the way.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7334800332503654685?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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New bouldering (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/new-bouldering.html)
14 January 2011, 5:12 pm
I'm going to just chance my arm and ask does anyone know of anywhere in Ireland that has good potential for new bouldering. Since finishing the guide I have a gra for finding some new areas. So any ideas?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8774831479649016853?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Some old videos (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/some-old-videos.html)
17 January 2011, 5:03 pm
I uploaded some old videos, the ones of John Gaskins in Glenmac might be of interest. Terrible quality footage.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-9020308608326243548?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Lough Bray night session (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/lough-bray-night-session.html)
19 January 2011, 7:15 pm
Did a night session in LB on Tuesday evening. Very clear night, full moon so was nice and bright. There was no wind so the cold was bearable.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1319054212070573221?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glenmacnass (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/glenmacnass.html)
19 January 2011, 7:21 pm
Went back to the forest beside Glenmac Waterfall and cleaned another line. Forgot my shovel so couldn't sort the top. Not a great problem, about 5, highish but on good holds. Lost my mojo for the problems there. Diarmuid has 2 good lines he hasn't cleaned but hasn't climbed. There is more to do but its all hard work and the climbing isn't brilliant. There are better spots to explore.
Checked out a boulder across the road from the forest. Had looked at it before but never tried it (it may have been done before or tried anyway, there was one little edge that looked like it has came off). Diarmuid came along and pretended he wasn't interested, then shoed up and worked it. He hasn't named it yet. (he only did it 5 hours ago), I'd say gradewise 6b with a tricky topout. Nice rock, nice moves. There was a brilliant pinch hold that didn't make the final cut which was a pity. Anyway here's a vid of it.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7087411683295797181?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo - high in the scree (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/01/glendo-high-in-scree.html)
29 January 2011, 11:36 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TUSkF42ybXI/AAAAAAAAAr8/b1dZNJKJ5uY/s640/IMG_7580.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TUSkF42ybXI/AAAAAAAAAr8/b1dZNJKJ5uY/s1600/IMG_7580.JPG)
Went on a spacer mission with Ped. I had spied a few big blocks high up in the scree near the foot of the crag that I was keen to check out. Scrambled up without any pads and the line was pretty nice, the landing wasn't too bad a mixture of grass and rocks. About 30mins of patio'ing sorted it but the first move is quite a big jump and it was intimidating without any pads. Will have to go back. The codename is dry arse.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8309638973679546760?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Cover of guide (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/02/cover-of-guide.html)
1 February 2011, 5:30 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TUhCdxBJmaI/AAAAAAAAAsA/JjbbuZJTkTc/s640/boulderingGuideCover.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/TUhCdxBJmaI/AAAAAAAAAsA/JjbbuZJTkTc/s1600/boulderingGuideCover.jpg)This is the cover of the guide. Its Rob Hunter on Cloud9 on Chimney Rock Mountain in the Mournes. Taked by Dave Hunter. Its a great shot and as soon as I saw it I knew it was right for the cover. I wanted something with a good bit of sky for the title. As much a landscape as a climbing shot - I think the photo would be pretty good without the climber and spotter. Cloud9 is supposed to be one of the best problems in the Mournes and Chimney Rock is a fair slog up the hill. The other candidates were not near as good as this shot. Thanks Rob and Dave...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3103956107357011934?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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great cover pic, looks fab :beer2:
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Wow.
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Lovely, and the climber gives it a sense of scale.
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That looks brilliant!
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Brilliant, I am ridiculously excited by this
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:bounce: looking forward to the guide :bounce:
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A first flick through the guide (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/02/first-flick-through-guide.html)
1 February 2011, 6:02 pm
Got the advance copies of the guide today. I'm very happy, was a bit nervous, a whole years work culminating in a flick through the book. The print is super sharp and the color is pretty good thought the fold eats a bit more paper than I expected but it doesn't really matter. I hope people are impressed. Its a great feeling to have it sitting on the table here beside me. All day I keep picking it up and flicking through it, you think I would be sick of it...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3095780622768639818?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.
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Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.
Will do. It should be available online in a week and in the shops shortly after that.
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And in shops in Aberdeen by the turn of the decade. Will get it online.
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Shout when it's going out for distribution. Not got any bog reading for a while.
Will do. It should be available online in a week and in the shops shortly after that.
Worth a punt on a banner ad? Not trying to drum up business for UKB, more that it'll get more exposure there as its a little buried in the thread here (looks top btw..) :thumbsup:
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Damp day (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/02/damp-day.html)
23 February 2011, 6:23 pm
Headed for Mall Hill but it was wet so went to check out a boulder I had spotted not far from the road near Lough Dan. It was ok. 3 problems to be done but nothing too exciting.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bTjt1z6BoB0/TWVQXsKJ-bI/AAAAAAAAAsI/xIva5rTNIuY/s400/IMG_7648.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bTjt1z6BoB0/TWVQXsKJ-bI/AAAAAAAAAsI/xIva5rTNIuY/s1600/IMG_7648.JPG) Then headed to The Scalp on the way home and tried Dark Angle. Diarmuid did the SS.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6575896828454140187?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Pierre's questions (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/02/pierres-questions.html)
23 February 2011, 9:42 pm
Pierre is writing an article for french climbing mag Grimper about bouldering in ireland. He asked me a few questions and I have included them and my answers here.
1. Are you the Irish Bouldering Guru?
Look at it this way – if I was on mastermind my specialist topic would be bouldering in Ireland. I’m just a trainspotter. People assume I’m a wad and are then a bit confused when they meet me.
2. What are your name, age and familial status?
You know my name. 33. Married.
3. Do you consider yourself a true Dub?
Suppose.
4. Do you remember your first climbing achievement?
Do you mean the first time I climbed? It was either with scouts or on an outdoor course I did when I was 11 or 12. I haven’t any achievements of note.
5. I’ve been told you were once a scout. Is that true? Do you think this is where your quest for exploring the Irish bouldering potential started?
Technically I still am as I’m a scout leader. Yes I was in scouts. This was when I grew interested in the outdoors. A lot of the early bouldering I did was in north Wicklow, places like Knocknagun. We would walk or cycle up and camp. It was as much, if not more, about the camping and all that that entails. For years we would spend weekends in Glendo camped in the forest or amoung the boulders. Bouldering during the day and sitting around the fire drinking at night. I always used to feel sorry for the other climbers as they headed off back to the carpark and home when we would have the whole valley to ourselves as the darkness descended.
6. Were there any other people from the Dublin mafia in the scouts?
Mafia? Some of my friends who I climb with were. I have always climbed with my friends. I suppose I’m Iucky that way. A lot of them whom I climbed with in the past no longer climb but they are still my friends. I have always been interested in the outdoors.
7. Did you already know many of the places you later visited as a boulderer? If so, were they better or worse than what you remembered?
The impression a places gives to a boulderer and a non-boulderer can be very different. Yes I remember being in Lough Bray and Glendo between the time I first climbed and started to climb independently. I received a tip off about Glenmacnass from my friend Kev who had spied the boulders from a distance while on a scout hike.
8. Why did you start bouldering? And with who?
Ever since I started climbing independently I was a boulderer. At first it was because we didn’t have any gear of our own. In my early years I spent a huge amount of time bouldering in the quarry, particularly Ivy Wall. Probably why I never go there anymore. Once I started college I had use of a rack and I gradually acquired my own. For a while I was pretty into trad climbing. Diarmuid, Ped, Kev and I started developing some new routes in Raven’s Glen near Maulin in Wicklow. It was great fun, cleaning and climbing. At this point I would of bouldered in Glendo a few times. But once we got tried of the faff of new routing our focus turned to bouldering and I haven’t looked back since.
9. Which routes have you climbed in Dalkey quarry?
I’d say I have done most of the easy ones and none of the hard ones. I once tried to onsight a route called Praying Mantis in the quarry. Fortunately I placed a siderunner which was the only piece of gear that held when I fell a few feet from the top. In a way this is my best and worst memory of the quarry. I did love the place once. I used to spend so much time there soloing or bouldering.
10. Are you doing any trad-climbing lately?
None for years.
11. Did you ever have to argue about ethics? Do you remember your worst/best discussions?
I have had lots of discussion but no arguments. I once talked to the infamous Si O’Connor on the telephone which was pretty weird.
12. Bouldering or sport? Bouldering or trad ? Ever had to pick a side?
I have never sport climbed. I choose bouldering over trad all the time. I do like soloing but haven’t done much of it in the last few years.
13. What is your occupation at the moment? Any plan to change in the future?
I’m an unemployed house husband. As for the future I have no idea. Would like to do another book, have loads of ideas but I’m not sure how viable they are. I’m sure something will come up. I’m in no rush.
14. The recession has probably affected your climbing. Was that good or bad?
You are right. The reason I wrote my guide was cause I was made redundant from my job. I felt it was now or never. I could have written it in my spare time but it would of taken years and I would have ended up hating it before the end. Quick and painless is the way. I’m glad the way things have worked out.
15. Your hardest ticks?
Bouldering : I would say I might have done 6c at some stage. Somehow somewhere. Definitely no more.Trad : E1 I would think but soft quarry E1.Sport : NoneOther : None
16. Have you visited every single area detailed in your guide? If not, how many of the places described in your guide have you actually visited yourself?
I just counted it up and I haven’t been to 6 (Rocky Bay, The Loaf, Fanad, Doagh, Rubonid, Greyabbey) so thats 84 out of 90 which is 93%, pretty good I reckon. Basically I ran out of time and couldn’t get to them. I couldn’t find Rubonid actually.
17. You have compiled 5 PDF versions of the guide since 2000. What were the main issues you had to discuss, apart from the obvious problem of grades?
I never have any hassle about grades, they aren’t a bit deal, I don’t spend ages staring into space wondering is Andy’s Arete really 7a or 7a+. I laugh when I hear or read people take them as fact. While I’m massively grateful to all those who every contributed to the guide I can’t help wonder about the rest, the silent majority who contribute nothing. I’m not saying the irish climbing scene is any worse than others in this regard but I do find it frustrating sometimes.
18. The format of the guide seems a popular one these days. What are your favourite bouldering guidebooks? (I am referring to the actual products, not the spots).
My main inspiration was the Peak Bouldering Guide which is one of my favourites. If you think about guides of a similar format – landscape A5 – and subject – bouldering – are always going to look pretty similar. There are exceptions like Simon Panton’s North Wales guide which is a one off. I like 7+8 but I’m not sure if it is a good guide. It’s style is very extreme.
19. ‘Ben’s Font’ became ‘Cloghogue’, but ‘Ayton’s Cave’ remained ‘Ayton’s Cave’. Any comment?
Plenty. I suppose part of the logic of that was that boulders in Cloghoge (I dropped the U after doing more research) already had a name that described them pretty well. Cloghoge means rocky place in Irish. And the river which runs within meters of some of the boulders is called Cloghoge. When the Ayton’s Cave name came up I didn’t like it. Still don’t. But after doing some research I couldn’t find a name that referred to that part of the coast and Howth Cave was a bit too general. So Ayton’s Cave didn’t have a name so Dave had a good claim on naming it.
20. You decided not to mention the first ascents in the guide because you said that ‘one can never be sure it will be correct’. Holds break, boulders move – every 6 months in the case of Doolin - and vegetation grows. Clearly, your guide will be incorrect before the end of the year - as all guide books do. Any comment?
Part of the reason I didn’t credit FAs alongside the description, name and grade was that I didn’t know most of the FAs so it would of been a largely blank entry or a ‘?’. I did consider listing FAs for the list of top 89 problems but in the end the benefits of getting it right were out weighted by the hassle getting it wrong would create.
21. You provide your readers with a list of 89 best problems, but what are your top three?
I haven’t done Echo Arete on Polldoo which is the best problem in Ireland I think. I’m happy not to have done it on the basis that I will get it done at some stage. There aren’t really two standouts. St Kevin’s Slab is a pretty cool piece of rock and I like the way it came about. I was searching for photos of boulders on the internet, as one does, and saw a tourist photo that had this nice looking slab in it. I took note of it but had low expectations literally I thought it was going to be too small. Low and behold it was a beautiful clean slab, the perfect height and difficulty. It’s not often things work out that well.
22. Finally, are you ‘the short span’ of that title?
No. The short span is mentioned in a poem by Geoffery Winthrop Young http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geoffrey_Winthrop_Young
“In this short span between my finger-tips on the smooth edge and these tense feet cramped to the crystal ledge I hold the life of man.”
I liked it very much then and still do. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6709835235994306680?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Scalp (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/03/scalp.html)
8 March 2011, 6:34 pm
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aoDvA3rWi58/TXZ2D03gNzI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/7Jzp6NM8kaQ/s320/IMG_0416.JPG) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aoDvA3rWi58/TXZ2D03gNzI/AAAAAAAAAsQ/7Jzp6NM8kaQ/s1600/IMG_0416.JPG)At the moment I'm trying to use The Scalp as my personal outdoor training area. I'm not the only one getting out there judging by all the chalk. My current goal is Gen Tilley. I have a good sequence from the stand start but getting there from the sitter is a different story. More work to do.
In one of many guide discussion with Diarmuid - he was my main sounding board, so kudoes to him - he said that the contents (I think we where talking about the Glendo circuits) of the guide would become definitive. It's was an intimidating concept and something I shrugged off.
In between burns on Gen Tilley, I wondered what grade was ie. what I had put in the guide. So I took it out of my bag and had a look 6b+ apparently. Ouch. What washed around my mind then was this funny feeling that that was the grade. For better or worse it was set in stone - pardon the pun. Since I got the book I have looked through it very little, after all I poured over every little detail for a year. The guy who wrote it is gone (I won't say dead that just sounds too dramatic) and in his place is this punter who uses the guide just like everyone else.
Beta on Gen Tilley welcome.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1589888102323884004?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Pierre's questions for Michael Duffy (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/03/pierres-questions-for-michael-duffy.html)
23 March 2011, 7:31 pm
Here is the second part of Pierre's research for his article about bouldering in Ireland. This time Pierre puts some questions to Michael Duffy.
Michael Duffy is a talented young architect and, most importantly, the conqueror of the "Big Squeeze" in Glendalough. "Wonderland" - this is how he decided to rename this famous line after his FA - has become the hardest boulder problem in Ireland. Pierre Fuentes, who's preparing an article on the recent developments of Irish bouldering, asked him a few questions.
Pierre Fuentes: What age are you?Michael Duffy: 28.
PF: Do you consider yourself a true Dub? MD: Scanda jacket, air max, Temple Theatre.
PF: What do you consider to be your first climbing achievement? MD: Abseiling "the Ghost" slab in Dalkey Quarry, in Dublin.
PF: How did you like climbing with Ronan Browner and Howard Hebblethwaite? Do you consider them as your first mentors or was there anyone else before / after, that have been more important to you? MD: I was very lucky to have started climbing when I did. I was 12 and Ron and Wally had just built the board in Church Avenue. All my heroes trained or had climbed there, Ron, Howard, Donnie, Grimer, even John Dunne had a problem on that board. Church Avenue and its climbers played a major role in Irish climbing and to be taken under the wing of so many great climbers was a privilege. Ron blared out Rage against the Machine and trained us all up. He taught me everything he knew took me on trips and sorted me out. I owe him everything for that, and my friends then are my family now. That was an exciting and unique generation to grow up in.
PF: Did you ever had to pick a side between bouldering and sport, or between Bouldering and trad?MD: Ireland has always been trad. High quality trad. Which is great if you’re a trad climber. But if you wanted anything else you had to move away. As soon as you climbed E6 you left. Bolting was out of the question and bouldering just didn’t exist. Of course the routes and boulders existed, but the mindset didn’t. Bouldering only really started to develop in the late 90’s and sport more recently in the last 5 years so Ireland’s a late starter but things are moving well now, people are training and it's all very exciting. People have loads they can go at now and hopefully they'll stay.
PF: Are you still unemployed? How do you manage? MD: It’s a bit like being on parole and you're not allowed to leave the country without permission. And getting paid a week what you used to get paid a day isn’t very glamorous. But that said, we're still lucky to have a decent welfare system here. When we graduated a couple of years ago, half my class ended up signing on, the other half emigrated. Jen and me just had a little boy last year so I’m happily unemployed, lots of parenting with the odd bit of work here and there. The kids’ coaching is voluntary. It’s been 10 years of study and lots of work, too much work and now it’s no work, baby boy and climbing so I’m happy out. Things will pick up again unfortunately.
PF: Have you finished your studies? What’s your plan for the future, professionally? MD: 1 year left to complete part 3 before becoming a Senior Architect, need a job to do it, thousands of us in the same boat it’s a mess.In 10 years to have a big studio in Dublin working with my friends who will have all moved back by then.
PF: Do you think the recession has affected your climbing?MD: Less work has its ups and downs. Having more time doesn’t necessarily mean more climbing, especially when there are babies involved, when you’ve less time you try harder and when you’ve too much you become complacent so there’s a balance. When work dried up it was an opportunity to explore and find lines, I wanted to start climbing as well as I could and the only way to do that was to develop, and that takes a life time compared to going out and repeating stuff.
PF: Your favourite ticks? MD: Bouldering :"Contact", 8a+, Carrigshouk. The move, the setting, perfect Wicklow line. Trad : "Right wall", Dinas Cromlech in Wales. Thought I was dead, great line, great setting. Sport : "Chomolungma" E6/F7a+, Dalkey Quarry, 3rd ascent at 14. This would have been considered a safe pegged sport route at the time but the line is getting destroyed now because the pegs are falling out and getting badly replaced making it dangerous to climb and chipping lumps out of the rock. This is destroying what is arguably one of the best and most unknown lines in the country. It’s a strong and rare contender for retro bolting, 2 bolts would do it and, in a man made quarry, conserving a fine line as opposed to damaging it further. Other : Beating my heroes in the IBL’s.
PF: Were you stuck on a plateau before building the Co-Op? Or did it not affect your climbing abilities?MD: I was starting to lose interest. I couldn’t see how to continue climbing here. A good facility was desperately needed in general, but personally I needed somewhere to train for projects.
PF: Do you think the Co-Op gave you the possibility to raise the general level of the Dublin bouldering community, and therefore to gather motivated team to establish your recent lines?MD: Motivation. The more of it the better. And cohesion. The Irish scene has always gone from strength to strength but at a slow pace and with small circles of friends scattered everywhere. In a wet and wild country you could argue that an overall scene and its standards only reflect the quality of its indoor facilities. So in Dublin when it rained everyone would split up or head back to home boards. By the time we built the Co-Op Church Avenue was in a skip and UCD was crap, so a new board seemed like a good idea. And now there are 3 of them; there are people training, people are starting to get to know each other more, people are out a lot more together and people are motivated. And naturally everyone starts to get better when they’re climbing together, so I suppose the general level is rising. It’s weird, you don’t know people now, you used to recognize everyone. A team? I’m pretty antisocial.
PF: Any problems with the Co-Op recently or is it safe to say that the Co-Op has a long life ahead?MD: Hopefully. Until a bad ass bouldering centre comes along and gobbles them up. But then another board will come along. There’ll always be boards.
PF: Do you honestly think there is anyone in Dublin capable of climbing at your level? And in Ireland? MD: There has been for years and I’d imagine there are more people we don’t know of yet. That’s the problem, so many of the good climbers left Ireland. Either you left, stayed and developed stuff or trained till you got bored and stopped. Now with a good stock of rock to go at and the secret mutants who stayed and kept training and all the new kids coming into the sport I’d say you're gonna see some pretty freaky shit.
Michael's recent first ascents also include Contact, 8a+, Dutch Gold left, 8a, Primer, 7c and Super Bock, 7c in Co. Wicklow ; in Portrane, Leviathan, 8a ; and in the Black Valley of Co. Kerry, the Astro, 7c+, and Dusted, 7c.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2457259097734984179?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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I have no idea Toby.
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Pierre's questions for Michael Duffy - UPDATED (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/03/pierres-questions-for-michael-duffy.html)
23 March 2011, 7:31 pm
Here is the second part of Pierre's research for his article about bouldering in Ireland. This time Pierre puts some questions to Michael Duffy.
Michael Duffy is a talented young architect, photographer and climber. Pierre Fuentes, who's preparing an article on the recent developments of Irish bouldering for Grimper asked him a few questions.
1. Your Age? 28
2. Are you a true Dub (by mother and father at least)? Scanda jacket, air max, Temple Theatre.
3. What do you consider to be your first climbing achievement? Abseiling The Ghost slab.
4. How did you like climbing with Ron and Howard? Do you consider them as your first guides or were there any other before / after, that have been more important to you?
I was very lucky to have started climbing when I did. I was 12 and Ron and Wally had just built the board in Church Avenue. All my heroes trained or had climbed there, Ron, Howard, Donnie, Grimer, even John Dunne had a problem on that board. Church Avenue and its climbers played a major role in Irish climbing and to be taken under the wing of so many great climbers was a privilege. Ron blared out Rage against the Machine and trained us all up. He taught me everything he knew, took me on trips and sorted me out. I owe him everything for that, and my friends then are my family now. That was an exiting and inspirational generation to grow up in.
5. What is the toughest ideological discussion on climbing ethos that you can remember, and with who?
With myself. Bolting.
6. Did you ever have to pick a side between bouldering and sport, or between Bouldering and trad?
Ireland has always been trad. High quality trad. Which is great if you’re a trad climber. But if you wanted anything else you had to move away. As soon as you climbed E6 you left. Bolting was out of the question and bouldering just didn’t exist. Of course the routes and boulders existed, but the mindset didn’t. Bouldering only really started to develop in the late 90’s and sport more recently in the last 5 years so Ireland’s a late starter but things are moving well now, people are training and its all very exciting. People have loads they can go at now and hopefully they stay.
7. Are you still on the dole and if yes, for how long as it been going on? If no, how do you manage? Do your kids climbing classes suffice?
It’s a bit like being on parole and your not allowed to leave the country without permission. And getting paid a week what you used to get paid a day isn’t very glamorous. But that said were still lucky to have a decent welfare system here and I’m not complaining. When we graduated a couple of years ago half my class ended up signing on, the other half emigrated. Jen and me just had a little boy last year so I’m happily unemployed at the moment, lots of parenting with the odd bit of work here and there. The kids’ coaching is voluntary. It’s been 10 years of study and lots of work, too much work and now it’s no work, baby boy and climbing so I’m happy out. Things will pick up again unfortunately.
8. Have you finished your architecture studies and when? 1 year left to fully qualify need a job to do it, thousands of us in the same boat it’s a mess.
9. What’s your plan for the future, professionally? In 10 years to have a big studio in Dublin working with my friends who will have all moved back by then.
10. Do you think the recession has affected your climbing (obviously it has but, positively or negatively or both and how?) I’ll give you a tip, I think that without the recession, Wonderland would still be the Big Squeeze but correct me if I’m wrong.
Less work has its ups and downs. Having more time doesn’t necessarily mean more climbing, especially when there’s babies involved, when you’ve less time you try harder and when you’ve too much you become complacent so there’s a balance. When work dried up it was an opportunity to explore and find lines, I wanted to start climbing as well as I could and the only way to do that was to develop, and that takes a life time compared to going out and repeating stuff.
11. Your favourite ticks :
Bouldering : Contact, Carrigshouk. The move, the setting, perfect Wicklow line.Trad : Right wall, Dinas Cromlech. Thought I was dead, great line, great setting.Sport : Chomolungma E6, Dalkey Quarry, 3rd ascent at 14. This would have been considered a safe pegged sport route at the time (fr7a+) but the line is getting destroyed now because the pegs are falling out and getting replaced making it dangerous to climb and chipping lumps out of the rock. This is destroying what is arguably one of the best and most unknown lines in the country. It’s a strong and rare contender for retro bolting, 2 bolts would do it, and in a man made quarry, conserving a fine line as it was originally intended as opposed to damaging it further.Other : Beating my heroes in the IBL’s.12. Were you stuck on a plateau before building the Co-Op? Or did it not change your climbing abilities?I was starting to lose interest. I couldn’t see how to continue climbing here. A good facility was desperately needed in general, but personally I needed somewhere to train for projects.13. Do you think you have been able to establish the recent lines because the Co-Op gave you the possibility to raise the general level of the Dublin bouldering community, and therefore to develop a proper motivated team?Motivation. The more of it the better. And cohesion. The Irish scene has always gone from strength to strength but at a slow pace and with small circles of friends scattered everywhere. In a wet and wild country you could argue that an overall scene and its standards only reflect the quality of its indoor facilities. So in Dublin when it rained everyone would split up or head back to home boards. By the time we built the Co-Op Church Avenue was in a skip and UCD was crap, so a new board seemed like a good idea. And now there are 3 of them; there are people training, people are starting to get to know each other more, people are out a lot more together and people are motivated. And naturally everyone starts to get better when they’re climbing together, so I suppose the general level is rising, both North and South. It’s weird, you don’t know people now, you used to recognize everyone. A team? I’m pretty anti-social. 14. Any problems with the Co-Op recently? I mean, can I say long life to the Co-Op?Hopefully. Until a bad ass bouldering centre comes along and gobbles them up. But then another board will come along. There’ll always be boards.15. Do you honestly think there is anyone in Dublin capable of climbing at your level? And in Ireland? There has been for years and I’d imagine there are more people we don’t know of yet. That’s the problem, so many of the good climbers left Ireland. Either you left, stayed and developed or trained till you got bored and stopped. Now with a good stock of lines to go at and the secret mutants who stayed and kept training and all the new kids coming into the sport I’d say your gonna see some pretty freaky shit.
First Ascents (best of), including these over 200 first ascents around Ireland:
Wonderland 8b, Glendalough, December 2010Contact 8a+, Carrigshouk, December 2009People of the Sun 8a+, Glendalough, March 2011Leviathan 8a, Portrane, May 2010 Dutch Gold left 8a, Glendalough, Feb 2011Dutch Gold 8a, (with a top out) Chris Davies FA, GlendaloughSwitch 8a/7c+, The scalp, July 2008Leftism 7c+, Glendalough, December 2008Astro 7c/+, Black Valley, Kerry, April 2010Primer 7c/7b+, The scalp, July 2008Super Bock 7c, Glendalough, December 2010Exit Planet Dust 7c, Black Valley, Kerry, April 2010White Lightning 7c/7b+, Black Valley, Kerry, April 2010The Spunk 7c/7b+, Aytons Cave, Howth 2010Maneater 7c/7b+, Aytons Cave, Howth, Summer 2010Neon Lights 7b+/c, Electric Mountain 2008Sow your wild oats, 7b+, Glendalough 2010Lemon Sole 7b+, Summer 2009Pascals’ ss 7b/+, Glendalough 1997Electroshock 7b/+, December 2010Block Party 7b / E7, Dalkey Quarry, Dublin, Summer 2009Big Al Qaeda 7b, Robin Hoods Stride, Peak District, 2003Kinky Reggae ss 7b, Glenmalure 2010The Mentalist 7a+, Glendalough, 2009Bump in the Night 7a, Black Valley, Kerry, April 2010Piece de resistance 7a, Mall Hill 2009Permadry 7a, Glendalough, 2008Lip service 6c+, Electric Mountain 2008Gen Tilly 6c, The Scalp 2008Sherpa Tensing 6c, Black Valley, Kerry, April 2010Dub Step 6b+, Brimstone West 2010Duffy Slap 6b, Glendalough 1997
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2457259097734984179?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Swim (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/03/swim.html)
27 March 2011, 9:43 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_aDsIueyLi4/TY8F--IT1YI/AAAAAAAAAsk/3VkInI2Aq9w/s640/IMG_5763.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_aDsIueyLi4/TY8F--IT1YI/AAAAAAAAAsk/3VkInI2Aq9w/s1600/IMG_5763.JPG)
Yesterday morning I went to check out a bit of coastline not far from the house that might have some potential for bouldering. The rock is mostly choss but some of the low down stuff has been washed by the waves into nice smooth rock similar to that of Portrane. I arrived at low tide and scrambled down to a small pebble cove with a cave at the back. The far walls were high cliff, I climbed down a shallow slab to the lip, the pebble beach was around 6feet below however the lip was very undercut. I stood there pondering if it was wise to jump down, my concern being getting back out. Suddenly my camera fell out of my pocket onto the beach and without any though I jumped down after it.
Soon as I landed I realised I was stuck. The walls overhung loads and were very smooth. The easiest spot to get back up was this steep and smooth runnel but it would be about 6c with rock shoes. I tried to build a platform out of stones and sand but it was never going to work. I wasn't panicking but was a little frantic. Tide was coming in a good rate so the only option was the swim. It wasn't far only about 10m to a ledge which I though I could get up on.
So I took the clothes off threw then up onto the ledge, I kept my shoes on for grip, my jocks for decency and my dryflow for warmt. The water was cold so I went in up to the waist and then came out and jumped around then got in and did the swim no problem. There was a little chop -3foot - so it was just a matter and timing when to go for the ledge.
Didn't feel cold when I got to the ledge, must of been the adrenaline as the water would of been 8degrees at the most. So it all turned out fine in the end but it could of been serious if the sea had been bigger or I had to swim a lot further to get out.
It was so stupid to jump in, I could of easily got the camera out using the strap from my pad.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-815996556328470912?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glanekeera (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/04/glanekeera.html)
28 April 2011, 8:02 pm
Went for a walk up and around Turlough Hill and Glanekeera today. Weather was cracking with a decent cold breeze so it never got too hot. Walked up the road from Wicklow Gap to the top. I can confirm there is no bouldering in the quarry. Further north along the ridge are some outcrops and a few boulders, the boulders are ok there might be one or two decent problems. The right arete on the below photo looks good and the landing is flat.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uKiIFG1ba-s/TbnAQs3TzkI/AAAAAAAAAso/SsCmjYHcFvo/s640/IMG_7915.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uKiIFG1ba-s/TbnAQs3TzkI/AAAAAAAAAso/SsCmjYHcFvo/s1600/IMG_7915.JPG)
The north facing outcrop has a few easy slabby highballs on it and the one facing west has at least one nice project - the line a meter or two from the right arete has an easy start and a steep blank finish. Part of the reason I went there was to see if the ground would be dry after this drought we are experiencing. It was pretty dry but you would still need a tarp.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sK9kCRbIBiw/TbnBQihKYUI/AAAAAAAAAss/R-DMbrxb-WM/s640/IMG_7919.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sK9kCRbIBiw/TbnBQihKYUI/AAAAAAAAAss/R-DMbrxb-WM/s1600/IMG_7919.JPG)
I went on to Lough Firrib and followed the tiny stream that flows north out of the lake. This is Upper Glanekeera, the valley is huge and packed with rock, mostly outcrops but some boulders. After around 5 minutes I turned a corner to see this steep and sharp fin of rock with some huge jugs on it. Amazing line. There was holds all the way, it didn't look that hard and I got it first proper go. Brilliant moves. As good a problem as any of it's grade (5 maybe). An hour from the car though.
I had savage blisters at this stage, I think my socks were too thin for my leather boots. I was planning to go all the way down the valley but decided to cut across the river to the ESB road. Saw some nice stuff that I will defo go back for.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v31GMJDSylY/TbnFUmgNpAI/AAAAAAAAAsw/_J5awfkTfik/s640/IMG_7949.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v31GMJDSylY/TbnFUmgNpAI/AAAAAAAAAsw/_J5awfkTfik/s1600/IMG_7949.JPG)
The above boulder/outcrop was around 30 feet high. The bottom overhangs alot. There is a lack of holds but someone might work something out. The ground was pretty marshy even after this dry spell so it would be a pond most winters. The rock was pretty dirty as well but this is one serious boulder. If there were a few more holds it would be a contender for a Spectre (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4viGQhBU92Y)type problem.
Its a huge valley and it would take more than a day to explore it.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3548521089148846945?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glencree - Cloon (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/05/glencree-cloon.html)
29 May 2011, 8:20 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z8vJLmnDba4/TeKqH9NWsdI/AAAAAAAAAtE/90SeEatdoPQ/s640/cloon.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z8vJLmnDba4/TeKqH9NWsdI/AAAAAAAAAtE/90SeEatdoPQ/s1600/cloon.jpg)
Was walking around Crone last week and I spotted two boulders on the other side of the valley surrounded by new plantings. Went up with Hazel to check them out and there was two nice very white pretty clean granite boulders. Went back yesterday with my shoes and did two slab problems and the arete. The right slab was harder than I expected, being very blank and quite steep. It would be a nice challenge from somone with a gra for hardish blank smeary slabs. I know that no one is probably ever going to go there but I'm going to document it anyway just for completeness.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQPrj0Q-RR4/TeKotYWK40I/AAAAAAAAAtA/0HuH0zAL3nw/s320/IMG_0011.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQPrj0Q-RR4/TeKotYWK40I/AAAAAAAAAtA/0HuH0zAL3nw/s1600/IMG_0011.JPG)
Left boulder
1, Font 5, left side of slab, tricky start.
2, Font 4+, right side of slab.
Right boulder
3, Font 5, nice arete keeping right all the way.
4, Project, rounded rib to the right. No holds.
Checked out a cluster of boulders further up the hillside but they were all too small. And I finally got to check out that quarry that has been in the back of my mind for years. Interesting place probably no climbing as such. There was a niceish vertical back wall that was a bit seepy but if it was somewhere like Dalkey it would be riddled with traverses and highball up problems
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khMHnHNAX88/TeKoWWB3z8I/AAAAAAAAAs8/sUrKRKT-bTg/s640/IMG_0015.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-khMHnHNAX88/TeKoWWB3z8I/AAAAAAAAAs8/sUrKRKT-bTg/s1600/IMG_0015.JPG)
Map here http://goo.gl/maps/a6M8 (http://goo.gl/maps/a6M8)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2357381010966474842?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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3 days on Camaderry (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/06/3-days-on-camaderry.html)
5 June 2011, 11:40 am
Wandered around the slopes of Camaderry on Thursday. Came back on Friday with Ped and Diarmuid and our camping stuff. Walked up from the hotel via the zigzags opposite the IMC hut and along the broad ridge leading to Camaderry East. Camped on the ridge and had a fire. Next day made out way back to the car via the mining village in Glendasan. We climbed a few new problems. There is plenty of rock up there but not a huge amount of bouldering.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T7WJu4MAf2Y/TetgCZv47pI/AAAAAAAAAtU/k1MoNb_FeR0/s320/IMG_0098.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T7WJu4MAf2Y/TetgCZv47pI/AAAAAAAAAtU/k1MoNb_FeR0/s1600/IMG_0098.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]I did this arete. Pretty straighforward. [/td][td][/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b1HcJ9Q-D20/TetnyBx5bSI/AAAAAAAAAts/K4RvL_Ismys/s640/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b1HcJ9Q-D20/TetnyBx5bSI/AAAAAAAAAts/K4RvL_Ismys/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dropping into the cliffs on Saturday morning.[/td][/tr]
[/table]| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7nX69g7I7w/TetivBpdjNI/AAAAAAAAAto/TDaxwwpJ5uI/s320/IMG_0108.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u7nX69g7I7w/TetivBpdjNI/AAAAAAAAAto/TDaxwwpJ5uI/s1600/IMG_0108.JPG) |
| The rounded slab. There is another line on edges up the right hand side. |
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jRMqtHatED8/TetYWvPT7GI/AAAAAAAAAtM/SxWgHI2eLNo/s320/IMG_0127.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jRMqtHatED8/TetYWvPT7GI/AAAAAAAAAtM/SxWgHI2eLNo/s1600/IMG_0127.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ped trying the crack. Harder than it looks, the finish would need a good clean.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X2k4sE-34qg/TetfrARbAfI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/uFJlsTvrnL8/s320/IMG_0131.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X2k4sE-34qg/TetfrARbAfI/AAAAAAAAAtQ/uFJlsTvrnL8/s1600/IMG_0131.JPG) |
| Diarmuid on the blank finish to the best line we found. |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BsmKfH1BknM/TetgJo0-_eI/AAAAAAAAAtY/f3fYVtnesdA/s320/IMG_0115.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BsmKfH1BknM/TetgJo0-_eI/AAAAAAAAAtY/f3fYVtnesdA/s1600/IMG_0115.JPG) |
| Another view of the line. The SS has nice moves on great slopers. |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zw7FIpKDUD4/TetiWOJ3dlI/AAAAAAAAAtc/Oex3ykCjs6M/s320/IMG_0142.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zw7FIpKDUD4/TetiWOJ3dlI/AAAAAAAAAtc/Oex3ykCjs6M/s1600/IMG_0142.JPG) |
| Ped after laybacking the crack. |
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AB8cf8RsJLw/TetinMhnsRI/AAAAAAAAAtk/yVMveSpDaIE/s320/IMG_0113.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AB8cf8RsJLw/TetinMhnsRI/AAAAAAAAAtk/yVMveSpDaIE/s1600/IMG_0113.JPG) |
| The line of holds is clearly visible here. Ped flashed a line to the right of the rib. |
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WUVHc1W_uvU/TetidyzQmFI/AAAAAAAAAtg/SHjgVgUpIBo/s320/IMG_0144.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WUVHc1W_uvU/TetidyzQmFI/AAAAAAAAAtg/SHjgVgUpIBo/s1600/IMG_0144.JPG) |
| Diarmuid climbed the slab on this boulder. I also cleaned the arete on the other side but it was a bit too hard for us |
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4080151507050148224?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Frustration (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/07/frustration.html)
4 July 2011, 8:10 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xNdRhZwevi8/ThIduFfF-fI/AAAAAAAAAuE/38sHCR8LUrk/s640/IMG_0731.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xNdRhZwevi8/ThIduFfF-fI/AAAAAAAAAuE/38sHCR8LUrk/s1600/IMG_0731.JPG)
So near yet so far.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2135978249499128617?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glenmalure (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/07/glenmalure.html)
27 July 2011, 9:29 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9lQT0JpuIUk/Ti_XeDLOI_I/AAAAAAAAAug/7Ga9cnHF8Ew/s400/IMG_1071.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9lQT0JpuIUk/Ti_XeDLOI_I/AAAAAAAAAug/7Ga9cnHF8Ew/s1600/IMG_1071.JPG)The plan was to go into the North Prision so Lee could show me around but we where told "under no circumstances" could that happen. Instead we drove around Lug to Glenmalure. The day which had been looking like rain got warmer and sunnier and stiller. Tried everything on the excellent Ballinafushogue Boulder but were repelled by hot rock and midge. Great boulder, plenty of climbing on it.
We then headed further down the road and scrambled up the north side of the hill to check out a roof we spotted. It turned out very nice. Steep and about 9foot to the first lip. Lee did 2 problems on it. Both with fairly involved topouts. There is an amazing project - similar but much better than Switch in The Scalp - to be done. Crimp, very steep, body tension finished with a slap to the slopey lip (you can see the line it take up the wall beside Lee's left foot).
There is more to be done up here. This only doing new stuff thing is going pretty well.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXHpwZ_8Vms/Ti_YWqxnijI/AAAAAAAAAuk/c-6mVu_cjck/s640/IMG_1075.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXHpwZ_8Vms/Ti_YWqxnijI/AAAAAAAAAuk/c-6mVu_cjck/s1600/IMG_1075.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1395634478126766676?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Gravity Climbing Centre (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/gravity-climbing-centre.html)
2 August 2011, 8:04 pm
Who's excited about Gravity?
Seeing as I haven't climbing indoors for a few years and its miles from my house I'm not particularly. Having said this I think it will probably have a profound impact on the irish bouldering scene, probably serving as a HQ of sorts. The impact of the co-ops is plain to see. Plenty of people getting out regularly, all friends. At least it seems to be, I spend most of my climbing time solo.
Will there be a defection from the co-ops to Gravity? Will Gravity kill the co-ops? It would be a pity if it did but its probably an inevitable step. Maybe the pity is that the co-ops didn't spring up 10 years ago.
I just looked through their website and I noticed that they haven't explicitly said that it will be a bouldering wall - as opposed to a roped wall. I'm assuming it is bouldering only. I wonder how this will go down with the non-climbing masses?
I look forward to checking it out. I hope that they will host a round of the IBL. Be interested to hear the prices.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-243502773788743460?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Updated Cave topo (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/updated-cave-topo.html)
10 August 2011, 6:00 pm
(http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/howth.png) (http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/howth.png)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1381019002449415486?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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New(ish) Area - Wicklow Coast (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/newish-area-wicklow-coast.html)
10 August 2011, 8:16 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xd9mpJGZWoA/TkLbP8KNY7I/AAAAAAAAAvA/iUQvsbhhom4/s640/wc.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Xd9mpJGZWoA/TkLbP8KNY7I/AAAAAAAAAvA/iUQvsbhhom4/s1600/wc.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oJanw5hUbr0/TkLbQQRK-hI/AAAAAAAAAvE/l4PpVdudkxU/s640/wc2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oJanw5hUbr0/TkLbQQRK-hI/AAAAAAAAAvE/l4PpVdudkxU/s1600/wc2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-exago_b_36k/TkLbQxXuU8I/AAAAAAAAAvI/95m0Nj_ftvY/s640/wc3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-exago_b_36k/TkLbQxXuU8I/AAAAAAAAAvI/95m0Nj_ftvY/s1600/wc3.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1VQuMGT1F3I/TkLbRidqcQI/AAAAAAAAAvM/lGj15f86-Ko/s640/wc4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1VQuMGT1F3I/TkLbRidqcQI/AAAAAAAAAvM/lGj15f86-Ko/s1600/wc4.jpg)
Over the summer I've been climbing a good bit on the cliffs south of Wicklow Town. The cliffs stretch from just south of the Town past the lighthouse to Brittas Bay. The rock is schist I think and varies from very nice smooth rock at the bottom of the coves to horrible sharp choss at the top of the cliffs.
The area is similar in style to Portrane but not as extensive. At the moment anyway.
Its tidal and prone to seepage so it can be hard to predict when it is in very dry condition.
I'm definitely not the first to climb here but the bouldering has never been documented before. The guide contains about 40 problems a lot of which haven't yet been climbed - as far as I know, this is a bit unusual, normally areas only get documented when they are climbed out. But rather than keep it secret until I had climbed everything I could - which could take years - I thought it would be better to put it out there so anyone could fill in the gaps. The summer is the season for bouldering and it's nearly over so if I left it much later it would be no good to anyone til next year.
All I ask is that people let me know if they do new stuff so I can keep the guide up to date.
Download it here (http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/wicklowCoast.pdf)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8937581342377174022?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Wicklow coast (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/wicklow-coast.html)
11 August 2011, 8:40 pm
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xGWxUHmLcxo/Tj5ObWfkfyI/AAAAAAAAAuo/poYJcnZcH1U/s400/IMG_1145.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xGWxUHmLcxo/Tj5ObWfkfyI/AAAAAAAAAuo/poYJcnZcH1U/s1600/IMG_1145.JPG) |
| Guppy Travers |
This was written on Saturday.
Took Paul Brennan on a secret preview tour of the bouldering I have been doing near Wicklow Town. I knew Paul would be particuarly keen to see it as he works in the Town. We went to the coves at Black Castle which is maybe the most tidal venue and also the shortest walk in. We arrived just as the tide was at its lowest. I hadn't been for a few weeks so I wasn't sure what the seepage would be like. Turned out the rock was as dry as I have seen it and the sand level were still very high.
We got down to business and warmed up on a nice traverse that had repelled me on previous occasions. Probably not the best thing to warm up on as its very pumpy. Did it after a few goes using a heel hook. I had originally thought it would go without needing a heel but alas no. Guppy Traverse 6a+.
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RpbWJi8QOc/Tj5PVlrRfZI/AAAAAAAAAus/EhCec7b7wIk/s400/IMG_1150.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RpbWJi8QOc/Tj5PVlrRfZI/AAAAAAAAAus/EhCec7b7wIk/s1600/IMG_1150.JPG) |
| Paul on the bump on his problem |
We then moved on to the problem to the right. A nice lowball slap from a slopey ledge to small incut edges. Paul figured out a good - and quite cool - sequence which invovled going with the left and bumping again.
We flailed around a bit more doing a high start to the problem I call Bulk Purchase which wasn't half as hard as I thought it would be, very cool feature thought. We then tried to get into the bowl and rotate.
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E0t2onKR-Mw/Tj5P4AFodYI/AAAAAAAAAuw/A83d77bG4Gg/s400/IMG_1155.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E0t2onKR-Mw/Tj5P4AFodYI/AAAAAAAAAuw/A83d77bG4Gg/s1600/IMG_1155.JPG) |
| Paul putting his caving skills to use |
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eOgozQruPw0/Tj5QibmcEsI/AAAAAAAAAu0/j05nTspMkfA/s640/IMG_1165.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eOgozQruPw0/Tj5QibmcEsI/AAAAAAAAAu0/j05nTspMkfA/s1600/IMG_1165.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Biker Cove line[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Then nipped over to the next cove south which is Biker Cove. We tried the nice line up the overhanding wall, I had been starting from a set of nice incut edges and deadpointing up to the incut pocket with my right, Paul had more success with his left, we then tried to work out a sequence from the slopey ledge which is the obvious start point. We did a few of the moves and it will make a great problem when linked up.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B4B5uWuAUeY/Tj5SL3qfKzI/AAAAAAAAAu4/0znRklJ3mAE/s640/IMG_1176.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B4B5uWuAUeY/Tj5SL3qfKzI/AAAAAAAAAu4/0znRklJ3mAE/s1600/IMG_1176.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ever seen someone twistlock cross through on hand jams?[/td][/tr]
[/table]
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YWbR2mo-to0/Tj5SQUh7-LI/AAAAAAAAAu8/-ZdMhRrTr0g/s640/IMG_1180.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YWbR2mo-to0/Tj5SQUh7-LI/AAAAAAAAAu8/-ZdMhRrTr0g/s1600/IMG_1180.JPG) |
| The slap move on the middle line |
At this stage the tide was lapping the rocks and we went to check out the nice cave I call the room. There is a great diagonal break slashing its way across the roof which Paul got excited about hand jamming. There is a start on the left hand side and a start in the middle that slaps from a really nice slopey slot to the break. The left start is ok, a bit damp and awkward. Paul contrated on the middle start, which I could barely get off the ground on. To my surprise he got it after a few goes and then started to figure out the rest. He will get it linked next time, I though it would be a lot hard maybe 7b but it might come in around 6c+.
It was a good session and I think Paul liked the place. Going to sit on this post til I let the cat out of the bag.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-591139631995345549?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Exploring the rain forest (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/exploring-rain-forest.html)
12 August 2011, 2:29 pm
Got it into my head that I wanted to check out a bit of hillside. I won't say where it is as it's very private land. Diarmuid and I wandered around, did some serious bushwacking, we say tons of rock, some decent size crags and a few problems. Nothing great, probably wouldn't go back. The rock was unusual, sometime like the Scalp other times fine grained almost like sandstone. A lot was dirty and a bit chossy.
A snotted myself rather nicely and got muddy then the flies got really bad. We ended up only checking out about half the hillside so I will have to go back. Hopefully on a drier less humid day.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wmVhWaxnegw/TkU3pdXxI3I/AAAAAAAAAvk/swtGqKMFTNU/s640/IMG_1201.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wmVhWaxnegw/TkU3pdXxI3I/AAAAAAAAAvk/swtGqKMFTNU/s1600/IMG_1201.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x1_yTqNc58Q/TkU3vlbXmzI/AAAAAAAAAvo/As1e_P5okYs/s640/IMG_1205.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x1_yTqNc58Q/TkU3vlbXmzI/AAAAAAAAAvo/As1e_P5okYs/s1600/IMG_1205.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPCuxpjkEtg/TkU33E9M0wI/AAAAAAAAAvs/XwoaYHBGM0o/s640/IMG_1208.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tPCuxpjkEtg/TkU33E9M0wI/AAAAAAAAAvs/XwoaYHBGM0o/s1600/IMG_1208.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3mzDnZPCOM/TkU4A_L7t_I/AAAAAAAAAvw/zvXVK32LXdw/s640/IMG_1209.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-F3mzDnZPCOM/TkU4A_L7t_I/AAAAAAAAAvw/zvXVK32LXdw/s1600/IMG_1209.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5624019755649869854?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Cave (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/cave.html)
24 August 2011, 6:48 pm
Intrigued by the traffic that The Cave seems to be getting I paid it a visit today. Cycled to the Dart and then cycled/pushed bike to The Cave. Took 1hr30 on the way there and 1hr05 on the way back which isn't too bad. Though Tim said you can drive it in 20mins or cycle in an hour.
I got there 2hours before low tide and had to wade around the corner to get in but the cave is in perfect nick, bone dry. So much drier since I was last there in July last year. My patience for fighting the damp is low at the moment due to the time spent in Wicklow Coast - though this is very dry at the moment as well.
The place is covered in chalk holds, it's really impressive to see the density of the problem in the space. Impressive and confusing.
I spent my time on Caroline's Traverse and Loco Total. Got the Good pinch jug on CT but didn't rock it out. Took a while to get the jist of LT but it all started to come back to after a while. I hadn't expected company, low tide was at 14.00, but Kev and John showed up after a while. Such is Ireland 2011 I suppose.
Kev topped up his Vit D and John did a new link up. Starting back left past a bit of LT and finish up can't remember. Last move was a cool foot cross though into a heel toe jam. Long problem. 40 moves maybe?
The Cave is great and I envy John being so close to it. Its in great nick at the moment so if you haven't been nows the time to check it out.
We are going to organise a BBQ one evening in early/mid September when the tides are right. Should be good.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8456889452035173775?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glanekeera part 2 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/glanekeera-part-2.html)
30 August 2011, 7:47 pm
Went back to Glanekeera today with Michael Duffy. I wanted to check out some of the stuff I had seen from a distance last time (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/04/glanekeera.html) I was there. Approached differently from last time and struck gold first boulder. I had seen it form a distance and wasn't sure if it was going to be big enough but it certainly was. I did one easy problem. And flailed on the warm up that was trickier than it looked. There are six execellent lines to be done on it. Haven't given the boulder a name but it must reference the massive truck tire that lies beside it,.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQOcF-U5Bkg/Tl024X3_eZI/AAAAAAAAAv8/6uF4dEZ2Tpc/s640/IMG_1263.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rQOcF-U5Bkg/Tl024X3_eZI/AAAAAAAAAv8/6uF4dEZ2Tpc/s1600/IMG_1263.JPG)
Next up we found a nice square cut block with 3 more problem to be done on it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q93IjLqLyi4/Tl05SvqkQ_I/AAAAAAAAAwE/06HUxsEPflw/s640/Untitled_Panorama1-blog.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q93IjLqLyi4/Tl05SvqkQ_I/AAAAAAAAAwE/06HUxsEPflw/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1-blog.jpg)
Showed Micheal the big bastard that I found last time. It's a huge block - contender for biggest in Wicklow - but the steepest line is short a hold or two. There is a great line or two to be done on the LHS and maybe a nice route up the middle. Would love to lash a few pegs into it.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jdr23WSKlU0/Tl047nAlMjI/AAAAAAAAAwA/sQsl9asvmR8/s640/IMG_1284.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jdr23WSKlU0/Tl047nAlMjI/AAAAAAAAAwA/sQsl9asvmR8/s1600/IMG_1284.JPG)
Next up was a lovely blank wall just less than vertical with two parallel lines of flakes on it. Not much for the feet for the crux start. Great line. Looks like it might start seeping soon.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qv2GeHsCMeo/Tl07WEm6b1I/AAAAAAAAAwI/XvgwoPeoC00/s640/IMG_1296-blog.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qv2GeHsCMeo/Tl07WEm6b1I/AAAAAAAAAwI/XvgwoPeoC00/s1600/IMG_1296-blog.jpg)Had a quick go on the Glanekeera Roof itself, felt as dodge as usual. (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wok1tZiUW2c/Tl07Y9o5EjI/AAAAAAAAAwM/0zmjVCKdFbg/s640/IMG_1315-blog.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wok1tZiUW2c/Tl07Y9o5EjI/AAAAAAAAAwM/0zmjVCKdFbg/s1600/IMG_1315-blog.jpg)
On the way back to the car we came across this boulder. Not that tall but with potential for 4 nice problems. It merits a return visit.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3CRgt-JxWHs/Tl07Z-ucTmI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/Sv9rhXs6kww/s640/IMG_1317-blog.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3CRgt-JxWHs/Tl07Z-ucTmI/AAAAAAAAAwQ/Sv9rhXs6kww/s1600/IMG_1317-blog.jpg)
Lastly after 6 hours of walking Micheal pointed out one last boulder. Right beside the carpark in Wicklow Gap is that nice wall. Very juggy, an excellent spot to warm up. It may well have been climbed before. But I'm going to claim it anyway.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj7Vgr-2Ruc/Tl07amciKVI/AAAAAAAAAwU/21khjBhzdY4/s640/IMG_1322-blog.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jj7Vgr-2Ruc/Tl07amciKVI/AAAAAAAAAwU/21khjBhzdY4/s1600/IMG_1322-blog.jpg)
So very successful day. Found about 18 great lines.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2384362910085329253?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Font (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/09/font.html)
26 September 2011, 11:35 am
Just back from a week in Font. Climbed 6 days out of 7, paced myself well and concentraded on the blues. Went to a mix of areas I hadn't been before and the old reliables. Bois Rond and Buthiers were great and I would go back. Realised that Cuiver is the greatest bouldering area in the world. I had always liked it but this time it blew my mind. The rock is very good even for Font, lots of great texture slopers and not too much grattons or marble. Also its huge.
I finally did the Blue Number 8 which I have been trying for years - 6 at least. Its an flared slot/chimney just left of Charcutiere. Now if you haven't tried it you may think, blue how hard can it be. If you have you know. Success required lots of palming and knee jamming. By the time I got to the top I was breathing hard and seeing stars. Needed a bit of a rest on top before I came down. Its a great problem, probably not a soft tick for Font 4 though. I'd suspect the 8a to the left gets more ascents.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hcXUb4lsh6E/ToBicOAPgLI/AAAAAAAAAwc/RgpZlNZTpCQ/s640/IMG_1687.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hcXUb4lsh6E/ToBicOAPgLI/AAAAAAAAAwc/RgpZlNZTpCQ/s1600/IMG_1687.JPG)
The beta is something like this. LF jam in back, RH palm, step up to sloper on L for LH, turn RH to palm. Push hips in and get a knee jam with L knee. RH to high sloper on R. Wingle alternativing knee jams until to can get a good chicken wing for L arm. Sqeeze into a more conventional chimney postition and get heel toe jam for RF. From then on its a pretty straighforward squeeze chimney.
As is my tradition I aways start in Cuivier on blue number 1, Les Sans des Mains. Beautiful slab problem. Took me a few tries and a change to shoes to crack it. It was so good I had to do it thrice. So good.
Went to a huge boulder in Elepant called Dalle á Poly. Huge overhanging face riddled with juggy pockets. The black number 40 which is supposed to be 4 goes up the left side. I got to within an inch of the last jug but was a little pumped to go for it. Its high. Worth a visit.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yRx6kMPtRXE/ToBjbzVi90I/AAAAAAAAAwg/xOyTBYw-_E4/s640/IMG_1832.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yRx6kMPtRXE/ToBjbzVi90I/AAAAAAAAAwg/xOyTBYw-_E4/s1600/IMG_1832.JPG)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Kerry (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/kerry.html)
7 October 2011, 6:41 pm
Went down to Kerry for a few days. The weather turned out horrible but still did a bit. Drove down on Sunday and stayed with Ped. Next morning went straight to Cronin's Yard. I haven't been down to Kerry for about a year but the roads have improved alot. It took me just under 4hours to Killarney in my yoke and not doing over 95kmph.
Set off in the sunshine to do Stumpa an TSaimh and along the ridge to Binn Chaorach and Corrán Tuathail. Got some nice shots on the walk in. It was warm in the sun. The direct line up Stumpa is around Diff and I had hoped I might find myself doing it. Once I got to the point of commitement I decided to go around the easy way. Just wasn't confident enough to press on into the void. Good call as it turned out as it started to rain a short while later.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dbDMItWzrZA/To9DYsWIhWI/AAAAAAAAAwk/l_9-GoNsyYE/s640/IMG_1977.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dbDMItWzrZA/To9DYsWIhWI/AAAAAAAAAwk/l_9-GoNsyYE/s1600/IMG_1977.JPG)
Continued along the ridge encased in cloud. Took a good while to reach Bhinn Chaorach. Was nice easy scrambling on grippy rock. The ridge across to Corrán was nice. But by this point it had got very windy and I felt I shouldn't be there. So raced along it and descended down Brother O'Shea's Gully which is a horrible steep, stoney descent. Trudged back to the car, luckily the visibility wasn't too bad so I got some sense of the grandeur around me.
Went on a romantic walk around the smaller Killarney Lake that evening with Ped. Saw some crab apples growing wild which was the highpoint of the walk.
The next day went out to Dingle to try and find an old Frank Winder route on the sea cliffs at Ballydavid Head. The description was too vague to be sure what we found. We scrambled down a grassy gully and along a ridge but the rock wasn't great. Incredible place though.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kY68ukHhIz8/To9FpbU5eUI/AAAAAAAAAwo/RB6kLL_CFIk/s320/IMG_2012.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kY68ukHhIz8/To9FpbU5eUI/AAAAAAAAAwo/RB6kLL_CFIk/s1600/IMG_2012.JPG) That afternoon we did the Faha Ridge is think clag and non-stop rain. We took a while to get our bearings when we reached the main ridge and where close to deciding to retrace our steps. It was quite miserable all in all.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dwVA3vukLv0/To9G3BRVoHI/AAAAAAAAAws/zMXX5YEw86A/s320/BILD3357.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dwVA3vukLv0/To9G3BRVoHI/AAAAAAAAAws/zMXX5YEw86A/s1600/BILD3357.JPG)
The next day we drove for about 3 hours to check out a valley called Glanrastel on the Beara Penisula. I had found photos of the valley that showed lots of massive boulders. It was pissing rain when we got there and the rock was total choss, the worst sandstone I had ever seen, I really thought I was on to something. We ended up trudging around from one giant block to choss to another. Standing in rivers wondering where it all went wrong. I have offically given up searching for boulders of that old red sandstone, its quality is too variable.
I had 3 things for dinner that evening as a consolation.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2770463973044697575?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo yesterday (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/glendo-yesterday.html)
14 October 2011, 8:00 pm
Went to Glendo yesterday with Tim. Was very mild. Stuggled on Big Jim warming up. It felt like a warm summer's day. Tried Afro Left. Its probably a decent problem from the undercut but I found it disappointing when Tim reached the top from the incut sidpull and the palm. The move from the lip is remarkably similar to Squamish.
There seems to have been alot of work done on the path, its now wide all the up to past the Uberhang whereas before it was narrow and winding. They have also built up the banks of the river. The easiest crossing point is now about 15m upstream of Big Jim, hopping across on 3 flat rocks. I think the stream is going to be very hard to cross if its any way high.
That there were five boulderers in the valley at a Thursay is all you need to know about the state of the country.
I'm bored of Glendo already. One visit this 'season'. Not good. I'm going to avoid it like the plague.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2189243777649743723?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Quarry (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/quarry.html)
17 October 2011, 6:45 pm
Went to the Quarry today for the first time in years. It was sunny but very windy and the rain was on its way but I did a few easy routes. Diffs to be precise. I used to go to the Quarry loads when I started out climbing and had a good soloing circuit. Today I felt very unsure and cautious which is probably natural as I haven't done any of that sort of thing for a while and of all the strands of climbing soloing is the one that requires lots lots of practise doing it (rather than training for doing it). Vauge goal is to do all the routes up to HVS in the quarry. I have been on most of them before but it was a long time ago. Should be fun doing some of the choss/vegetable horrors.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4392995291147041759?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering in Ireland - finalist in Banff Mountain Book Competition (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/bouldering-in-ireland-finalist-in-banff.html)
19 October 2011, 10:51 am
Last week I got the great news that the guide was choosen as a finalist in the Banff Mountain Book Competition. One of 23 finalists it was selected out of 106 entries from 11 countries.I never really thought it had a chance so am delighted. Its in the Guidebook category along with the amazing Peak bouldering guide and a Rockfax route guide.
See the rest of the entries here (http://www.facebook.com/notes/banff-mountain-film-festival/2011-banff-mountain-book-competition-finalists/10150315089067331?ref=nf)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3407655916173065738?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Fame at last (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/fame-at-last.html)
31 October 2011, 11:12 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W5RH24WbwsA/Tq6Ckk-OcYI/AAAAAAAAAxs/THuVuZYljuE/s640/IMG_2403.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W5RH24WbwsA/Tq6Ckk-OcYI/AAAAAAAAAxs/THuVuZYljuE/s1600/IMG_2403.JPG)From yesterday's Sunday Business Post.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1577270146511094984?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo - Glenelo (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/glendo-glenelo.html)
7 November 2011, 7:18 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-e_NgMD-2s/Trgt8hS1WDI/AAAAAAAAAx0/cCKj3SrGw8Y/s400/IMG_2455copy.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G-e_NgMD-2s/Trgt8hS1WDI/AAAAAAAAAx0/cCKj3SrGw8Y/s1600/IMG_2455copy.JPG)Went to Glendo as had spotted some boulders on the hillside W of the crag. They were in the sun while the boulders on the floor of the valley where in the shade all day and I'd say some were quite damp as well. Incredibly mild in the sun. Most of the boulders turned out crap but did one nice problem on some edges with a nasty mantle.
I try to go in hope rather than expectation so wasn't disappointed. Was tempted by the boulders above the crag but decided to have a look at the Main Face. Started up Prelude but didn't go far. Was surprised at how polished the rock is. Its not bad but definitely a popular route. Also started by Holly Tree Shunt - I think - but came down as I wasn't into going all the way and reversing would of been a world of pain.
I did do the sublime Expectancy. Incredible granite jugs with a nice section smearing up the groove. The slab has just come into the sun so it was warm but the rock was freezing, prefect conditions. What a great route.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4317674149135593140?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Gravity Climbing Centre is OPEN (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/gravity-climbing-centre-is-open.html)
9 November 2011, 10:52 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXJVPn0oSKY/TrsDPADpMYI/AAAAAAAAAx8/o67bb7-Aib0/s400/IMG_2492.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KXJVPn0oSKY/TrsDPADpMYI/AAAAAAAAAx8/o67bb7-Aib0/s1600/IMG_2492.JPG)Visited Gravity today. Its incredible, absolutely massive, cavernous really. Huge variety of angle and lots of beautiful little details such as tapering undercut running across the change of angle in the slab and walls with multiple triangular platforms. When I think of the time that was spend bouldering on the steep board in UCD, it seems a bit ridiculous. Those days are over now though.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xJ_sX9CxIgw/TrsDSw7297I/AAAAAAAAAyE/hspJ5XnUOsY/s400/IMG_2496.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xJ_sX9CxIgw/TrsDSw7297I/AAAAAAAAAyE/hspJ5XnUOsY/s1600/IMG_2496.JPG)I hope that Gravity will turn into bouldering HQ and it will be a great place for climbers to climb and socalise. It feels more like a bouldering venue rather than a wall, the potential is great problems is staggering. Its also really tall so it going to suit climber looking to get a stamina edge as well.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gVmPyqH3ZD8/TrsDaanpQ_I/AAAAAAAAAyU/GN4yeyrbGmw/s400/IMG_2504.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gVmPyqH3ZD8/TrsDaanpQ_I/AAAAAAAAAyU/GN4yeyrbGmw/s1600/IMG_2504.JPG)The purpose of the visit was to talk to Angela and get some information for an article in the Sunday Business Post, they sent out a photographer and we got some savagely cheesy staged photos.
I haven't been to a climbing wall for just over 2 years but I had no hesitation joining up there and then. See you there.
I took a video to show what I'm talking about.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-596184265844957713?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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A few more photos from Gravity (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/few-more-photos-from-gravity.html)
13 November 2011, 10:03 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESCEOtT1SQs/Tr-WFbZe7WI/AAAAAAAAAyc/bmAj9y7dSt4/s400/IMG_2509.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ESCEOtT1SQs/Tr-WFbZe7WI/AAAAAAAAAyc/bmAj9y7dSt4/s1600/IMG_2509.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kFyexpWtT3E/Tr-WHzPWBnI/AAAAAAAAAyk/dopMDRn6DyA/s400/IMG_2510.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kFyexpWtT3E/Tr-WHzPWBnI/AAAAAAAAAyk/dopMDRn6DyA/s1600/IMG_2510.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lpx2m59fNC0/Tr-WKTpaI1I/AAAAAAAAAys/x19sPsBbppo/s400/IMG_2516.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lpx2m59fNC0/Tr-WKTpaI1I/AAAAAAAAAys/x19sPsBbppo/s1600/IMG_2516.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7_B0WoypSME/Tr-WM1qmNpI/AAAAAAAAAy0/3k1-lJac_gw/s400/IMG_2517.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7_B0WoypSME/Tr-WM1qmNpI/AAAAAAAAAy0/3k1-lJac_gw/s1600/IMG_2517.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A2ufXKpIInA/Tr-WPqJr0NI/AAAAAAAAAy8/n2vdl4E7azA/s400/IMG_2525.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A2ufXKpIInA/Tr-WPqJr0NI/AAAAAAAAAy8/n2vdl4E7azA/s1600/IMG_2525.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ebUhdu72xgY/Tr-WR8vhtnI/AAAAAAAAAzE/icGsEW5xxG4/s400/IMG_2528.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ebUhdu72xgY/Tr-WR8vhtnI/AAAAAAAAAzE/icGsEW5xxG4/s1600/IMG_2528.JPG)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Where is the adventure in bouldering? (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/where-is-adventure-in-bouldering.html)
16 November 2011, 7:43 pm
My climbing is moving focus at the moment. Though I'm still very interested in bouldering I think I will start doing more routes especially multi-pitch i.e. the kind of climbing that would be considered adventurous.
Climbing isn't fundamentally adventurous. No activity is. Take driving a car, at one end of the spectrum there is nipping to the shops, at the other, I don't know, driving across siberia in my piece of shit Polo. Or in climbing terms toproping Paradise Lost versus soloing a new route on a big wall in Antartica (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/antarcticsolo/).
I looked up the definition of adventure cause thats what you do. Here it is
"An adventure is defined as an exciting or unusual experience; it may also be a bold, usually risky undertaking, with an uncertain outcome."
Not very satisfactory for me its lacking something about pioneering or isolation. Adventure isn't just about risk taking nor novelty. Anyway.
With the world mapped and well enough trod there is no new, only new to you. Which should be enough for most people. I link bouldering and exploring/searching for new boulders unextractably. The physical side of it holds less for me but I do get it. Walking around wondering what around the corner, hidden in the hollow or over the ridge is exciting. Usually turns into disappointment but that's just the way it is.
I suppose adventure is wandering around outdoors and whether you have a pad or rope or kayak on your back is secondary. So if you don't think there is any adventure in bouldering you are just doing it wrong.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4163079100583009647?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The perfect boulder problem? (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/perfect-boulder-problem.html)
17 November 2011, 11:13 am
[tr][td](http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4ad81548a27f0.jpg) (http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4ad81548a27f0.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]From www.westcoastbouldering.com (http://www.westcoastbouldering.co/)[/td][/tr]
[/table]For my money Spectre in Bishop may well be the perfect bouldering problem. Having said this I think there no such thing as a perfect boulder problem, and as such the only problem with Spectre is that it is 8b instead of 6b.
Only line up a huge boulder. Steep hard start on beautiful slopers up an smooth wall. Tricky moves to turn the lip and highball finish. All you could ever want.
Check out the vid (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOJ79X6CWvY&feature=related). Bit of an ad for 5.10 but shows the problem well.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1452737068989942555?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glenmalura explora (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/glenmalura-explora.html)
22 November 2011, 7:55 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-80YBup-pBIE/Tsv_xsvwLzI/AAAAAAAAAzM/hmJVDIaXeEw/s400/IMG_2581.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-80YBup-pBIE/Tsv_xsvwLzI/AAAAAAAAAzM/hmJVDIaXeEw/s1600/IMG_2581.JPG)Spent the day in Glenmalure. Revisted the line I found during the summer. Often these things aren't as impressive on second viewing but this was. Its a great line. Quite indoor in style, 25 to 15 degrees over on quite distinct holds either incut edges, large sloper or slopey edges, around 12 hand moves so quite long. I did a bit of patio-ing, cleaned the holds, tried the moves and then chalked the shit out of it to try and clean it. Going to leave it for a month or two, keeping training then come back, ideally with a spotter and another pad or two.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNibxsNy77k/Tsv_-4gDrGI/AAAAAAAAAzU/2eexjJKEM78/s320/IMG_2583.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNibxsNy77k/Tsv_-4gDrGI/AAAAAAAAAzU/2eexjJKEM78/s1600/IMG_2583.JPG)Checked out a huge roof clearly visible from the road. Impressive but too tall to be a problem and a bit scrappy to be a route.
Then went up the valley to check out some very white looking blocks. Long walk up but I had Sherlock Holmes for company. There are about 6 boulders with potential only one was of interest but it was pretty nice. Furthest from the road. Best way to approach would be on a bike but it won't be easy. Tried a few problems on it, will be 2 easy ones, a lovely tricky traverse, a nice medium problem, a v hard line and an amazing dyno. On perfect Mall Hill rock.
Spotted a few other boulders on the walk but left them till next time. One of them was your standard granite blob but it had a very thin diving board, about 6+ foot long jutting out of one side, mild bushwack. Oh and a large, overgrown but also overhanging crag!
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4058608501402770907?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Article about Gravity in the Sunday Business Post (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/article-about-gravity-in-sunday.html)
28 November 2011, 10:52 am
I wrote an article for the SBP about Gravity.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J5kyJvBGdKQ/TtNnx0PFzII/AAAAAAAAAzc/K4stNwBfOSM/s640/IMG_2665.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J5kyJvBGdKQ/TtNnx0PFzII/AAAAAAAAAzc/K4stNwBfOSM/s1600/IMG_2665.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-920900329482619421?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Updated blog (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/j2Jkhyml-ns/updated-blog.html)
29 November 2011, 7:51 pm
I updated the blog and have embedded it onto theshortspan.com.
Let me know if you think that was a clever idea?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7935892765429870492?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/j2Jkhyml-ns)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glanekeera part 3 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/0SHP_qvoLX8/glanekeera-part-3.html)
10 December 2011, 7:22 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BGP5qfljNdM/TuOw-5aRE_I/AAAAAAAAAzk/bI2ShT6mcYU/s400/IMG_2878.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BGP5qfljNdM/TuOw-5aRE_I/AAAAAAAAAzk/bI2ShT6mcYU/s1600/IMG_2878.JPG)Revisited Glanekeera today with Michael and Chris. I was hoping for sunny and cold but it was more damp, icy and cold. The wind was strong and cold in the Wicklow Gap carpark and I wasn't that optimistic about getting much done. Which was a pity as the last two visits (1 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/04/glanekeera.html) and 2 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/glanekeera-part-2.html)) were more focused on exploring and this time I wanted to climb a few problems.
Went straight to the tire boulder which was sheltered from the wind but damp and icy. Michael cleaned the hard line on the back and him and Chris tried it but conditions were crap. I tried the warm up that I had trouble with last time but it was manky - didn't stop the lads though. Then did a pointless variation. Checked out and cleaned another boulder and then went to the big fella.
Michael had added and cleaned a line on the left a week or two ago and we build a little landing and he got to work. It looked very nice and very hard and I think we where all a little surprised when he did it in about 6 goes. It took a few goes to figure out the reach over the bulge to a bad sloper and a few more sloper moves and a dicey mantle lead to the top. Its a great problem on great holds up a massive big boulder. Chris videod it but missed the start. Grade is around 7b/7c I'd say but conditons where bad so it would be hard to say.
Glanekeera is a nice spot. Remote but not too far a walk. The rock isn't the cleanest but there is a good few nice new problems to be done.
G(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uBN422pXhTY/TuOxBnl0WQI/AAAAAAAAAzs/1BBa0wrubwM/s640/IMG_2884.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5963022467742173143?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/0SHP_qvoLX8)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Scalp (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/BWWjahcVzs4/scalp.html)
12 December 2011, 7:44 pm
Went to the Scalp this morning with Tim. Was good conditions, cold and a breeze. My skin was crap and I remember that the climbing in the Scalp while powerful is very sequency and beta intensive, its quite possible to NEARLY do problems sub optimally. Warmed up on the arete beside Plank Arete. Powerful. Then on to Gen Tilly which is a fine problem. We then walked to the garage and got coffe which we brought up to Switch and drank before trying the left arete. Must be the only crag where you can get coffee between problems?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1637931904018101000?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/BWWjahcVzs4)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Shortest day of the year over (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/TNAbjcsMrE0/shortest-day-of-year-over.html)
21 December 2011, 4:41 pm
The shortest day of the year is just about over, finishing in some style with a good sunset. So every day from now on we get about a minute of extra light.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4fonrDZhUDo/TvIL7Y57utI/AAAAAAAAAz0/IZ3yQY8d_W4/s400/IMG_2890.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4fonrDZhUDo/TvIL7Y57utI/AAAAAAAAAz0/IZ3yQY8d_W4/s1600/IMG_2890.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3054357573560418601?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/TNAbjcsMrE0)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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May 2010 - Inishmore photos (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Ppang51gd80/may-2010-inishmore-photos.html)
23 December 2011, 8:09 pm
Went to Inishmore for the May 2010 bank holiday. Got great weather and got to visit The Wormhole and do some exploring. My goal was to get a few shots for the guide note the lines. Was going through the photos again today and thought it would be worth posting up a few that didn't make the guide.
Poll na Peiste is a great little bouldering spot. As clean lines as you will find anywhere. The rock is pretty smooth for limestone but still have some friction. The landings are perfect.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YtrSe5a047Q/TvTe8HFgZVI/AAAAAAAAA0k/EmjvlB5DBxY/s640/IMG_1723.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YtrSe5a047Q/TvTe8HFgZVI/AAAAAAAAA0k/EmjvlB5DBxY/s1600/IMG_1723.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yHr55xNwryg/TvTfAKuv6dI/AAAAAAAAA0s/gLOg9VE7Mio/s640/IMG_1757.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yHr55xNwryg/TvTfAKuv6dI/AAAAAAAAA0s/gLOg9VE7Mio/s1600/IMG_1757.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tepo2U1d34c/TvTfDSXwtSI/AAAAAAAAA00/XnEcCn2lFBI/s640/IMG_1769.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tepo2U1d34c/TvTfDSXwtSI/AAAAAAAAA00/XnEcCn2lFBI/s1600/IMG_1769.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAat83syoVg/TvTfKWW43pI/AAAAAAAAA08/4OTJm2IJ1jg/s640/IMG_1778.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kAat83syoVg/TvTfKWW43pI/AAAAAAAAA08/4OTJm2IJ1jg/s1600/IMG_1778.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8gIT-qyvGU/TvTfPylaWhI/AAAAAAAAA1E/Zm3bRXbWgGY/s640/IMG_1782.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C8gIT-qyvGU/TvTfPylaWhI/AAAAAAAAA1E/Zm3bRXbWgGY/s1600/IMG_1782.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1717610391073470923?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Ppang51gd80)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo on Christmas Eve (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/zszjVR5Vpqk/glendo-on-christmas-eve.html)
27 December 2011, 10:31 am
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oLQ99KHBPPk/Tvmb6n_kI7I/AAAAAAAAA1Q/B90Lksr5zd8/s400/DSC01128.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oLQ99KHBPPk/Tvmb6n_kI7I/AAAAAAAAA1Q/B90Lksr5zd8/s1600/DSC01128.JPG) |
Jeff wearing a right arm chicken wing, left arm palm and
a double knee bar. Fleece models own. |
|
Good session in an almost mint Glendo. Lots of people around. Warmed up on Big Jim in the wind. Did a good problem on the uphill arete of the riverside. Starting just R of the top of Barry's Crack move left on lovely slopers and either slap up - what I did - or reach into the top of the sidepull problem.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--m64aHnXv8I/Tvmb82q5psI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/utZzpsTcwms/s400/DSC01129.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--m64aHnXv8I/Tvmb82q5psI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/utZzpsTcwms/s1600/DSC01129.JPG)Went to try Squamish but I had to conceed to the damp. Diarmuid was showing us his pet problem Midge Too Far (best thing about it is the name) and Jeff - the genius man - spotted that the classic chimney offer potential for a horrific journey into the through it bowels. We immediatly got stuck in, I think you can safely say we, literally got stuck in. The archaic and deviant world of chimney and slot bouldering is one that appeals to my dark side. It's truely 3D climbing, using your whole body to best effect, and its also a style where determination and fight really count. After 3 goes I was goosed. Knees were skinned. This is a body pump quite unlike the class in Westwood on Saturday morning that my friend Paddy is such a fan of. Jeff and fought hard but lost to a technical knockout. Jeff who lives in Italia 90 won't be back for a while but I will. Once I fashion some neato knee pads.
For the record the sequeeze goes something like this bridge, squeeze, painful knee bar, sore arm bar then chicken wing, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar,painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, good slopey foothold, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, painful knee bar, ear then who knows but probably something involving painful knee bars to the top.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9SABOIqtzk/Tvmb_8YsMXI/AAAAAAAAA1g/jxJXyxTqH3M/s640/DSC01130.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y9SABOIqtzk/Tvmb_8YsMXI/AAAAAAAAA1g/jxJXyxTqH3M/s1600/DSC01130.JPG)On the way out we saw a beautiful dead trout lying beside the river.
Then I made the lads go home.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8935491514163826633?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/zszjVR5Vpqk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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:2thumbsup: Thank you for the last 2 posts as they made me delightfully happysad. Happy at the thought of little venues out there for fun to be had, happy someone else has an eye for the absurd and silly in our activities, and the fun in general wedging.
Sad cos I haven't been able to indulge, let alone blog about it lately. However, with this inspiration, all I need is some perspiration, and a snatch of opportunity.
Cleft optional. :thumbsup:
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Yoga (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Lc5_f8ILv6s/yoga.html)
30 December 2011, 8:38 pm
I don't even really believe in yoga.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ObuX9hX2wig/Tv4hAtPQf1I/AAAAAAAAA1s/cYSfKGcwNCY/s400/Glenmalure+204%252Cone.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ObuX9hX2wig/Tv4hAtPQf1I/AAAAAAAAA1s/cYSfKGcwNCY/s1600/Glenmalure+204%252Cone.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2676626325213433558?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Lc5_f8ILv6s)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Blog future (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/p2xlKu5Euk8/blog-future.html)
31 December 2011, 6:45 pm
Not sure what the future for this blog is. I have been trying to post general interest irish bouldering stuff and keen away from logbook style things. Trish's blog which seems to be very popular is logbook style but its done well so maybe I could do some of that stuff but try and do it well. Or should I start another blog for that?
I have recently embedded it on the theshortspan as a temporary measure while I figure out what to do. I would like to update theshortspan more next year with news and short articles and maybe keep the more niche personal stuff on the blog.
Would be very keen to hear suggestions on how to do it?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5140134460523537194?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/p2xlKu5Euk8)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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2011 review (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/1T5k6lM7oUc/2011-review.html)
31 December 2011, 7:13 pm
Stephen McMullan posted a good retrospective of the Irish climbing year on climbing.ie (http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php?topic=4773.msg2097).
(http://theshortspan.com/photo/boulderingGuideCover.jpg) (http://theshortspan.com/photo/boulderingGuideCover.jpg) From a personal point of view my highlight was finishing the guide in January and it selling well. I have a small pile left and it sold loads more than I had expected/hoped. For the first few months I barely dared look at it for fear of finding mistakes and only focusing on the elements that could have been better. But with the passage of time I can now happily leaf throught it with considerable satisfaction. The icing on the cake was probably getting shortlisted for Banff (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/bouldering-in-ireland-finalist-in-banff.html). Thanks to all who bought it and to those who haven't what are you waiting for? (http://www.theshortspan.com/)
The guide and the arrival of Gravity must be the two biggest events on the bouldering scene. Gravity seems to be doing great business and must surely breed a whole new crop of boulderers/climbers. It's definitely going to have a huge effect on the competitive climbing scene, starting kids climbing young and getting them strong. How all this will translate to rock climbing remains to be seen.
My goal for the year was to concentrate on new problems which worked out pretty well. The exploring on the Wicklow coast (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/newish-area-wicklow-coast.html) fed the rat somewhat but it is probably destined to be a estoreic enough bouldering area however next summer might see some route development I suspect. A few visits to the Upper Glanekeera valley yielded some excellent finds which add to make a decent remote area. Must get a few things climbed and then do a topo. (posts 1 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/04/glanekeera.html),2 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/08/glanekeera-part-2.html),3 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/12/glanekeera-part-3.html)). Also finally explorded Camaderry (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/06/3-days-on-camaderry.html) properly, I now have a pretty good idea where the really good stuff is.
The standard of Irish bouldering definitely rose this year. Partly due to the co-ops and partly just a younger generation. I would suspect more > 8a's (I know the ' is technically wrong but I think it's clearer than 8as) were climbed in Ireland this year than ever before.
(http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/howth.png) (http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/howth.png)
The cave in howth was in great nick for a lot of the summer and loads of new links were done. John Howard also ticked the whole cave which must be one of the most impressive feats of the year. See below for the updated topo - of course it's not as simple when you actually stand there and try and find a problem.
One of the very last parts of the guide I wrote was the outro. It got me thinking about how much bouldering there is out there, I have always believed that there are some major areas to be found. But a day in the pissing rain in Caha Mountains (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/10/kerry.html) pretty much convinced me I won't find it in the Cork/Kerry mountains.
Anyway. Thanks for reading and keep commenting. Will write a post tomorrow about plans for the year.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3804488330423675622?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/1T5k6lM7oUc)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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A very large, wet cave in Sligo (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/7mAfCLjKsOg/very-large-wet-cave-in-sligo.html)
3 January 2012, 10:44 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SGkAFLH-hqo/TwA8uXMBHAI/AAAAAAAAA3o/x_4LIhbRvOk/s400/DSC00252.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SGkAFLH-hqo/TwA8uXMBHAI/AAAAAAAAA3o/x_4LIhbRvOk/s1600/DSC00252.JPG)In 2004 we checked out this huge cave in Sligo, it's near Aughrish Head, I can't remember exactly where but could probably figure it out. The cave was huge, I think you could fit a few double decker buses in it but it was soaking wet. It was clear though that the rock was incredible smooth and rounded limestone, the walls where step banded with slopey breaks. If (and it's a big if) it ever dried it would be amazing, probably bigger than Gravity with beautiful rock and a perfect sandy landing. Photos are Kev Cooper's.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TdAaRnK1Gc8/TwA8o9t3dJI/AAAAAAAAA3g/XO2-5vR3KN0/s400/DSC00251.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TdAaRnK1Gc8/TwA8o9t3dJI/AAAAAAAAA3g/XO2-5vR3KN0/s1600/DSC00251.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wORE02wz0c8/TwA822TV6MI/AAAAAAAAA3w/GayzehU5P80/s400/DSC00253.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wORE02wz0c8/TwA822TV6MI/AAAAAAAAA3w/GayzehU5P80/s1600/DSC00253.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mWqu9tGvG5k/TwA884Z9kxI/AAAAAAAAA34/SclHq-CxKQc/s400/DSC00254.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mWqu9tGvG5k/TwA884Z9kxI/AAAAAAAAA34/SclHq-CxKQc/s1600/DSC00254.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-Ijf6e-1VA/TwA9DTuqKbI/AAAAAAAAA4A/4U09FeNYer8/s400/DSC00255.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z-Ijf6e-1VA/TwA9DTuqKbI/AAAAAAAAA4A/4U09FeNYer8/s1600/DSC00255.JPG)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJd05n9jP0o/TwA9J7UD0dI/AAAAAAAAA4I/STWRhlS-TXU/s400/DSC00256.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJd05n9jP0o/TwA9J7UD0dI/AAAAAAAAA4I/STWRhlS-TXU/s1600/DSC00256.JPG)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3742158168059211808?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/7mAfCLjKsOg)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Back of the Rasher (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/ZzPmhNJh3mc/back-of-rasher.html)
3 January 2012, 1:42 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8275441266076586201?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/ZzPmhNJh3mc)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Projects: open or closed? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/iUEmeqoJWVY/projects-open-or-closed.html)
4 January 2012, 1:07 pm
For years I have been on the look on for the prefect project in Wicklow. I wanted something that would inspire me to train and try and get stronger. So it needed to be steep and powerful, on edges rather than slopers so it wasn't too condition dependent. It needed to be unclimbed as that is what blows my skirt up. It needed to be a few moves which could be worked in isolation as it gets old fast falling off the same move day in day out.
I expected to find it in the Glendo but never saw exactly what I was looking for. Last summer I found it in Glenmalure. Every box ticked. I have sorted the landing, cleaned the holds and tried the moves. And now I'm trying to get a bit stronger before the siege starts.
I'm deeply motivated by it and would love to go on and on about it and share all the photos I have. But something holds me back, I'm afraid that if I told the world that someone would go and climb it. And I want it all for myself.
My attitude to projects always has been that no one owns the rock and if you don't want anyone to climb your project don't tell anyone.
[tr][td](http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/20100315-img_18221.jpg) (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/20100315-img_18221.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo courtsey of Joe Kinder joekindkid.com (http://www.joekindkid.com/)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
In sport climbing there is the principle of the red tag. A climber would clean and bolt a line. While working it she would leave a red tag on the first bolt to indicate that it's a work in progress and other climbers should stay off. Considering the time and expense of equipping a sport route this seems fair enough. The question is: how long is the equipper entitled to before she has to open the route up to others?
Red tagging seems to be accepted practise but sometime even the heros get into trouble over it. Deadpointmag offered a $1000 bounty on a route Chris Sharma was working. Chris asked them not to. Shortly afterwards a can of worms opened. Read the Deadpoint original piece (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/chris-sharma-big-nalle-hukkataival-and-red-tag) and then the embarrassing apology (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/josh-lowell-speaks-out-and-dpm-steps).
Josh's defence that as Chris didn't literally put a red tag on his projects or that they were never "officially open" or "officially closed." is bullshit.
"Chris had put the better part of two years projecting the line, and his request for Ethan to stay off it, was between gentlemen"
"...When he realized that Nalle had flown in from Finland on a mission to try the route, he asked Nalle to give him some time to complete it first..."
Anyway. Boulder problems usually require only a small amount of work to prepare them (though there are exceptions) so the issue of finances doesn't come into it. So is it right for anyone to claim a project as their own? One very strong boulderer I know said that if he heard someone was working a problem he would give them a year to get it done before trying it.
The advantage of closed projects is that
- It reduces the need for secrecy, people will share information more freely if they aren't worrried someone will go along and do their project.
- It encourages people to get out and look for new problems of their own.
Disadvantages
- Not all climbers are going to agree with and respect the idea of closed projects and this could cause friction. Also how do you know a project is closed?
- It can cause stagnation. There is nothing like the fear of your project getting 'robbed' to motivate you. Plus it means problems wait years before getting done as people drift away from climbing leaving a trail of closed projects behind them.
The best solution is probably one of compromise. The Irish bouldering scene is pretty friendly and most of the active boulderers know each other and the way it seems to work at the moment is that you keen quiet about a project but you expect people to give you some breathing space anyway.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5558035882027888170?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/iUEmeqoJWVY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Old article - Nine of the best unclimbed problems in Wicklow (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/osq65NE7N7k/old-article-nine-of-best-unclimbed.html)
13 January 2012, 10:38 am
This is an article I wrote in early 2004 that was never published. I have added updated information in red.
Nine of the best unclimbed problems in Wicklow
This is a list of some of the best unclimbed boulder problems in Wicklow. All are hard most are very hard. That the majority are in Glenmacnass will be no surprise to those who have been there. Only one problem listed is in Glendalough the reason is that this list about the unknown rather than the known and Glendalough is very much the known. All styles of problem are represented long, short, safe, slappy, crimpy and fingery. This list used to be a top ten but John Gaskins climbed the tenth problem (see the news item Darkness before the Dawn) just before Christmas.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fyX_uCU9oh0/TxAEnDMhw5I/AAAAAAAAA4o/pOqsnZB2mVs/s400/hiddengroove.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fyX_uCU9oh0/TxAEnDMhw5I/AAAAAAAAA4o/pOqsnZB2mVs/s1600/hiddengroove.jpg) 1. Glendalough – The Hidden groove project
About a hundred meters above the Fin is a large boulder on the uphill side of which is the groove.It’s about 16 foot high, the landing is a mixture of rock and grass which will require many pads to make it safe. The start is easy but the top out will be the crux with very technical insecure stemming on marginal holds. One to headpoint maybe?
I believe Dave Ayton did the first ascent of this shortly afterwards. He gave it around 6b I think. It's more scary than hard. A good few pads and a bit of patioing would make it quite safe. I saw Harry Fogg do it quite causually one day.
2. Glenmacnass - Wow Prow
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XUuiJUgrKvw/TxAFVlPVxGI/AAAAAAAAA4w/7QdUVg5vaN0/s400/wowprow.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XUuiJUgrKvw/TxAFVlPVxGI/AAAAAAAAA4w/7QdUVg5vaN0/s1600/wowprow.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo by Dom Green[/td][/tr]
[/table]Maybe not quite as strong a line as the original wow prow in Bishop, California (now named the Mandala by Chris Sharma the first ascentist) but nice none the less. About three fingery deadpoints should see the top in hand. If you prefer steeper more powerful problems there is a very overhanging rib with only the vaguest sidepulls to the right.
Wow Prow was probably over stating it slightly. I'ts a nice line and looks great from a distance but the holds are small and sharp. I think John Gaskins did all the moves ones day but never linked it video on youtube (http://youtu.be/AGJsjW28FFI). Other wads have looked at it but weren't captivated. Still someone should get it done. Now the line to its right is a different story, very hard and in the modern style of compression on slopey holds.
3. Glenmacnass - groove left of the Wow Prow(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9xTIVkWbCk/TxAFr9j5cyI/AAAAAAAAA44/45ovAECpnqc/s400/IMGP1533.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E9xTIVkWbCk/TxAFr9j5cyI/AAAAAAAAA44/45ovAECpnqc/s1600/IMGP1533.JPG)
Not that hard as the rest of the problems in the list but a great line. The top section needs a good clean probably from a rope. The first move is a hard fingery slap from sharp crystals to a good hold, a bold upper section leads to a very good jug to on the lip. The landing is quite good though there is a few holes worth avoiding.
Andy Robinson did this a few years after. Called it the Shroud, it's around 6b. Bit highball and the crux is a long reach.
4. Glenmacnass - No Dice | (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3BOdwWxRlJ8/TxAEhAtvRZI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/1e9SdkJBZWw/s400/dicerib.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3BOdwWxRlJ8/TxAEhAtvRZI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/1e9SdkJBZWw/s1600/dicerib.jpg) |
| Photo by Dom Green |
Not an obvious feature as the most obvious feature is the lack of features. There is one small crimp for the left hand and a vague slopey rib for the right hand and foot. The difficulty lies not in discovering what to do but doing it.
John Gaskins put a bit of work into this one to no avail. I heard a rumour that Barry O'Dwyer hit the top. Very elegant minimalist line but with quite defined holds.Video of John trying it on youtube (http://youtu.be/AGJsjW28FFI).
5. Glenmacnass – Andre’s arete
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A8gZ5exHCqc/TxAEgal9erI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/lZDX3HUGzhU/s400/andres.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A8gZ5exHCqc/TxAEgal9erI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/lZDX3HUGzhU/s1600/andres.jpg)
In a bend of Glenmacnass river about five kilometers above the waterfall is a large granite boulder, the Riverside boulder. This large rectangular block with a heather hat has a perfect vertical arete. It’s oft admired as it is prominent from everywhere in the upper valley. Apparently this arete was climbed in the early fifties by a Polish climber who was living in Ireland at that time called Andre Kopczinski. Apparently he didn't even use climbing shoes (this was a long time before sticky rubber or anything similar) just a thick pair of woollen socks. If so this would have been one of the hardest ascents in the world at that time. For the moment though lets consider it unclimbed until we are sure of otherwise.
World famous now as Solidarity. Andy Robinson picked this plum and then fecked off to Canada. You can see the extent of the pool under it before Andy came along with his shovel. Andy was rightly worried that the line would be robbed at the boulder meet and get it done just in time. As for Andre, well it's a nice idea.
6. Glenmacnass - Nemesis
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pAM_uoSKDDg/TxAF5Nj8mgI/AAAAAAAAA5A/-oIunaVYR7o/s400/IMGP1512.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pAM_uoSKDDg/TxAF5Nj8mgI/AAAAAAAAA5A/-oIunaVYR7o/s1600/IMGP1512.JPG)
High, hard, long and complicated. The landing is good but boulder is high (20 feet). It will take a particular type of person to get excited about this project as it will take a lot of figuring out the moves, cleaning holds etc. The first move is a tricky slap to a relatively good hold after that there not a huge amount to aim for just the slopey lip and the odd crystal for the feet.
Stupid problem really, don't think it had seen any attention. The arete to the right is the excellent Smokey and Bandit.
7. Glenmacnass – Dice slap
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iE0xhrf2EZE/TxAGGShWIlI/AAAAAAAAA5I/p2a_gHmidMI/s400/IMGP1504.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iE0xhrf2EZE/TxAGGShWIlI/AAAAAAAAA5I/p2a_gHmidMI/s1600/IMGP1504.JPG)
It’s just one hard slap off a reasonable edge to a small crimp with no footholds worth mentioning. Easy if you’re strong enough, impossible otherwise. Not as impressive a line to look at as the others but a cool move.
Visted Welsh was Chris Davies did this at the 2005 meet. Called it Monkey Burger which is one of the worst names I could imagine. There is now a similar problem to the left also.
8. Glenmacnass – The Full Rasher Traverse
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o2IXd0lWjb8/TxAGeAnz1oI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/SI_Bcyfawcw/s400/IMGP1516.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-o2IXd0lWjb8/TxAGeAnz1oI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/SI_Bcyfawcw/s1600/IMGP1516.JPG)
This will be a fine endurance outing without any particularly hard moves but lots of them. The Rasher is the traverse of the lip facing the river that looks vaguely like a rasher on its side. The complete traverse starts right on the other side of the boulder going up (and across) one arete down another (a fine problem in itself) and finally across the Rasher itself. The holds are always slopey and never good enough to get a good shake out. One to try after a holiday clipping bolts.
Probably been done by now. Compelling line if you like stamina stuff I suppose. You can see in this video Gaskins causually traverses it before dropping off at the mantle.
9. Glendasan - prow of the Tank
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3ks7BV8_lM/TxAEicspX1I/AAAAAAAAA4g/lua6vlj27OY/s400/glendasan.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3ks7BV8_lM/TxAEicspX1I/AAAAAAAAA4g/lua6vlj27OY/s1600/glendasan.jpg)
The prow of the Tank boulder above the mining village in Glendasan is formed where the two overhanging faces meet. To the right is 'Darkness before dawn' John Gaskins 8a+ and the hardest problem in Ireland. John used a camming device placed under the boulder to hold his mat in place on Darkness this would be worth doing on the prow as the landing below the sitstart is rocky. A very steep sitstart on some slopey holds leads to the lip after which there is still a good bit of work to do. There are also another two unclimbed problems on this boulder (the face to the left and the crack just to the right).
John did this one at 7c. Great line.
So of the 9 6 are done. The two really worthwhile ones left are the prow right of Wow Prow and the Dice Rib.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1566274550777772991?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/osq65NE7N7k)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Unclimbed projects (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/koiGUG0kq3s/unclimbed-projects.html)
19 January 2012, 11:09 pm
Following on from article from 2004 listing some of the best projects in Wicklow here is a list of a few worthwhile unclimbed lines. All of the below are good lines on nice rock, there are no SS or variations or extensions. They are King Lines if you will. I know of more some that I'm seflishly hoarding from myself (they easy ones), so this list isn't exhaustive.
1. Split boulder, Electric Mountain
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tD4CL2JegyA/TxiVmLcWepI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/9M3ECyqfXUo/s320/DSC00165.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tD4CL2JegyA/TxiVmLcWepI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/9M3ECyqfXUo/s1600/DSC00165.JPG) This line is on the hillside to the left of the Electric Mountain forest. There is a big buttress split vertically by a fared chimney. The first move is a big throw from some small edges to the big slopey ledge and then a highball finish. There is an easier project to the right as well.
2. Flicking the Bean boulder, Mall Hill
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHQFxDvwLtk/TxiWCLoFawI/AAAAAAAAA5g/uqAP-NBAi_E/s320/5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hHQFxDvwLtk/TxiWCLoFawI/AAAAAAAAA5g/uqAP-NBAi_E/s1600/5.jpg)The slopey arete on the Flicking the Bean boulder isn't probably that hard. The landing is awkward as it slopes away but there are plenty of branches to build a level platform. Might be a sit start, on the day that photo was taken I pulled a flake off from below the nose on the right, it was rotten and very loose so was no lose.
3 Art's Boulder arete, near Glanekeera
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z95tajIcIgY/TxiXQ0K4tjI/AAAAAAAAA5o/5I8iyb2bSOU/s320/IMG_0115.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z95tajIcIgY/TxiXQ0K4tjI/AAAAAAAAA5o/5I8iyb2bSOU/s1600/IMG_0115.JPG)High, hard and remote. Great line though.
4. Line right of Wow Prow, Glenmac
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FBfF4KRwczg/TxiZnCVnIvI/AAAAAAAAA5w/kxbKCR-rUdI/s320/IMG_6560.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FBfF4KRwczg/TxiZnCVnIvI/AAAAAAAAA5w/kxbKCR-rUdI/s1600/IMG_6560.JPG)The Wow Prow is the arete in the middle. The other line is the right arete. Very steep very slopey compression from a SS. Very much the modern style. There is a line of seepage in the middle of the face that might interfere.
5. Dyno right of Boat 66, Glenmac
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yvm8OUIcToc/TxiaHpHPI3I/AAAAAAAAA54/TT5xSGRGEMI/s320/IMG_6584.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yvm8OUIcToc/TxiaHpHPI3I/AAAAAAAAA54/TT5xSGRGEMI/s1600/IMG_6584.JPG)Dyno up the middle of the face. Starts on a shit hold and goes along way to the lip to a good jug I think. Rocky landing. Borderline impossible ie. very hard I think.
6. Nemesis Boulder right arete, Glenmac
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zoHMcQ8fy2k/TxialDgaHWI/AAAAAAAAA6A/HWKfsH6GGMw/s320/IMG_6597+-+Copy.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zoHMcQ8fy2k/TxialDgaHWI/AAAAAAAAA6A/HWKfsH6GGMw/s1600/IMG_6597+-+Copy.JPG)Just noticed this one when going through my photos. Looks like hard clamping up the steep nose. Mightn't be that impressive in person.
7. Roof below crag, Lough Dan
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DT_WCXWeV1A/Txia-QQG-cI/AAAAAAAAA6I/im8YFSoiVpA/s320/IMG_1952.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DT_WCXWeV1A/Txia-QQG-cI/AAAAAAAAA6I/im8YFSoiVpA/s1600/IMG_1952.JPG)Long roof traverse. Maybe 15m long. Would stay dryish in the rain. Lovely rock, great holds. Not even that hard. Why am I mentioning this one?
8. White Elephant, Glenamlure
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iQOZRRRw1js/TxidsXjOK0I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/wWwLn9TSP_Q/s320/IMG_3879.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iQOZRRRw1js/TxidsXjOK0I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/wWwLn9TSP_Q/s1600/IMG_3879.JPG)High. Very blank arete. Oh and at least 1.5 hours from the road. Good luck with that.
9. Steep side of Gullyblock
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hf267lW2_H4/TxieFSyHJ4I/AAAAAAAAA6g/572cBucKSsI/s320/DSC00146.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hf267lW2_H4/TxieFSyHJ4I/AAAAAAAAA6g/572cBucKSsI/s1600/DSC00146.JPG)Left arete. Steep. Might be a few holds on the face.
10. Forest boulder, Mall Hill
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m7EihIWPX4Q/Txie2oEk0GI/AAAAAAAAA6o/IcJPRzlq-Xk/s320/DSC00105.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-m7EihIWPX4Q/Txie2oEk0GI/AAAAAAAAA6o/IcJPRzlq-Xk/s1600/DSC00105.JPG)Deep in the forest above and left of Living the Dream is a nice rounded boulder. The centre of the face doesn't look like much in the crappy photo but it is beautiful. A few decent holds to start and then some very slopey moves on the bald pate. Beautiful. Did I mention the dappled light?
Well that's all I can think of for the moment. If you know of anything else worth mentioning leave a comment. Note nothing in Glendo.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2168199913282925603?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/koiGUG0kq3s)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Johnny Dawes interview (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/tFOwLN6xrDM/johnny-dawes-interview.html)
20 January 2012, 11:54 am
The brilliant, mad, articlulate Johnny Dawes talks to the Guardian. He has some interesting stuff to say and there are some good clips of his running jumping antics.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1777826900418777159?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/tFOwLN6xrDM)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Trailer for new bouldering film - Life on Hold (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/8uxP0AiEmIU/trailer-for-new-bouldering-film-life-on.html)
23 January 2012, 4:00 pm
Life On Hold - Trailer 2 (http://vimeo.com/35022331) from Outcrop Films (http://vimeo.com/outcropfilms) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/)
Check out Outcrop Films (http://www.outcropfilms.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2463356771317899104?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/8uxP0AiEmIU)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering Meet 9/10/11th March (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/3osnEF_X8qY/bouldering-meet-91011th-march.html)
3 February 2012, 10:34 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guDtLa8qxAo/Tyu4IWVcUVI/AAAAAAAAA7A/YPak9h802Hc/s400/meet22.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guDtLa8qxAo/Tyu4IWVcUVI/AAAAAAAAA7A/YPak9h802Hc/s1600/meet22.jpg)The hut is booked for the bouldering meet on the 9/10/11th March. Spread the word. Pint to anyone who can name every one in the photo above. Hint: from 2005.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2849167662254422537?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/3osnEF_X8qY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Meet poster (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/CgPWlSi6ZSk/meet-poster.html)
3 February 2012, 11:17 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQrT0M8m-YQ/TyvCOV6RltI/AAAAAAAAA7I/h4t17TdhvPc/s400/meet2012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HQrT0M8m-YQ/TyvCOV6RltI/AAAAAAAAA7I/h4t17TdhvPc/s1600/meet2012.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1586541074589690617?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/CgPWlSi6ZSk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Pretty interested in coming over for this! Can you give me a bit more info about the event? Mainly interest in the costs?
Is Dublin airport the closest?
Cheers, Dan
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No idea of the costs, but Dublin will certainly be your closest airport to Wicklow.
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Cheers, cheap flights at the moment from Leeds. Lets hope the photos of the Bloc's in the guide are as good as they look!! :)
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Only climbed routes there, but Glendalough is very nice, the boulder field seemed rather confusing so the guide and local knowledge will be invaluable.
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The meet is based in the IMC Hut which is pretty basic but grand. Usually climb in Glendo on the Saturday and elsewhere on the Sunday if the weather cooperates. There is a usually a good few people around to give you a tour and have a few pints in the evening. Costwise the hut is E10 per night. If you flew to Dublin you could get a bus (Aircoach http://www.aircoach.ie/ (http://www.aircoach.ie/)) into the city and then St Kevin's bus (http://www.glendaloughbus.com/ (http://www.glendaloughbus.com/)) to Glendo. St Kevins only goes up and down twice a day so timing mightn't be great for you. Failing that it would/should be possible to get a lift from the city if you post up on theshortspan.com message board. Buy a bit of food in town and a few cans and that's it. PM if you have any questions. If you are coming for more that the weekend you can use the hut just let me know in advance.
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Barefoot on sacred ground (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/2WzXETlTwKk/barefoot-on-sacred-ground.html)
18 February 2012, 2:05 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wHwGrMXiCk4/Szpwj3kkdVI/AAAAAAAAApQ/muc3BPxOQ2g/s320/IMG_2608.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_wHwGrMXiCk4/Szpwj3kkdVI/AAAAAAAAApQ/muc3BPxOQ2g/s1600/IMG_2608.jpg)I posted a few months ago about Spectre (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2011/11/perfect-boulder-problem.html), a boulder problem in California that I consider close to perfect. Last week I read a blog post (http://gripped.com/2012/02/sections/news/feb-13-2012-canadian-bags-second-one-shoe-send-of-spectre/) about a one shoed ascent. Terry Paholek did Spectre wearing only a left shoe so that he could use his toes to cam and pull on the footholds.
You can see from the photo on the left (from the Bishop Bouldering (http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/)) how important the right foot is.
Terry Paholek, Spectre V13, Bishop, CA (http://vimeo.com/36677839) from chalk on blocs (http://vimeo.com/user9976677) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-2512110397984075810?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/2WzXETlTwKk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Freak brothers (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/5J1Oh0I4Z9s/freak-brothers.html)
18 February 2012, 2:10 pm
Another very nice piece of granite from Switzerland.
Day 8 - Freak Brothers (http://vimeo.com/36782987) from Sandstones (http://vimeo.com/sandstones) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8791642193989643311?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/5J1Oh0I4Z9s)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Three Rock (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/gmKgr7W8-Wc/three-rock.html)
19 February 2012, 1:18 pm
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_n2Uq1IEPv8/T0D1tXB5TfI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/0nRrmpszxEw/s400/images11+162.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_n2Uq1IEPv8/T0D1tXB5TfI/AAAAAAAAA7Q/0nRrmpszxEw/s1600/images11+162.jpg) |
Diarmuid on SS to the middle of the Second Rock.
Photo: Ped. |
Went up to Three Rock. Hadn't been for almost a year so everything felt fresh, almost new. There was a bit of a breeze but it was warm in the sun. The odd shaded corner was a bit damp or even a little icy. Played around on the back wall of the third rock which was a great sun trap. Did every little variation and then some. Then did a few nice, if a little silly variations on the second rock, great press moves on rubbish slopers. Definitely going to do up a small but detailed guide to Three Rock showing all the silly little variations and elimates, probably one for the connoisseurs.
I assume/hope that all the kids that were at the competition in Gravity yesterday made their way to Glendo today. Not sure it would of been mint though.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1600536300532234613?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/gmKgr7W8-Wc)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Top 10 bouldering areas in Ireland (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/6xSYB5OyrwU/top-10-bouldering-areas-in-ireland.html)
19 February 2012, 8:02 pm
Was asked to do a list of the top 10 bouldering areas for an article in the Sunday Times. Not as easy as it might sound. So just going to think aloud.
If it's judged solely on number of problems (in the guide) then this is the list.
- Glendo (155)
- Glenmacnass (73)
- Doolin (67)
- Portrane (66)
- Fairhead (60)
- Gap of Dunloe (56)
- Glendasan (52)
- Slieve Binnian (47)
- Mall Hill (48)
- Windy Gap (40)
There are a few problems with this list. Firstly bigger isn't always better. Secondly some of the areas above are a bit of an acquired taste (Windy Gap, Portrane for starters). If you assume that the purpose to the list is to help people decide where to go for a bouldering trip in Ireland then the above list isn't that useful as there are other worthwhile clusters of smaller bouldering areas that could be considered as one area, for example the coastal granite around Carrickfinn or if you took the Gap and Black Valley as one area it would move up the list. So here is a list of what I would consider the best destinations for a day or two bouldering in Ireland.
- Wicklow
- Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley
- Doolin and Inishmore
- Fairhead
- Mournes
- North West Donegal
- Inishowen, Donegal
- Aughris Head
- Fermanagh Grit
- Portrane and Ayton's Cave
The order is highly debatable. The first entry is miles ahead of the rest and the last is dubious but I couldn't think of anywhere else. Taking Wicklow as one big grouping doesn't really work though.
Combining the two lists makes a bit more sense. If one accepts that Glendo is number on no matter how you look at it and that the order of the rest is so subjective to be not worth worrying about then the list might look something like this.
- Glendo
- Glenmacnass
- Fairhead
- Doolin
- Gap of Dunloe and Black Valley
- Glendasan
- Slieve Binnian
- Aughris Head
- Mall Hill
- Portrane
There aren't any major areas left out bar Windy Gap but I think it's a special case as the rock is so sharp. This wouldn't be my personal list though. Fairhead is better suited for wads, they may well rate it number 2 , and I'm not a big fan of Doolin but a lot of others seem to like it.
If anyone has any comments or suggestions or alternate lists post a comment.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1176971410179234249?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/6xSYB5OyrwU)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Sounds well considered :)
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Given a week of good weather and a bit of surf, getting to all those spots would make me a happy man.
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Font tomorrow (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Z08GrLGH36M/font-tomorrow.html)
22 February 2012, 7:38 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j5KbbON6bgw/T0VEKHiPAmI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/LERLqkVTbxQ/s400/Copy+of+DSC_2091a.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j5KbbON6bgw/T0VEKHiPAmI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/LERLqkVTbxQ/s1600/Copy+of+DSC_2091a.jpg) Heading to Font tomorrow for 4 days climbing. Early start, flying at 6.45 which is nasty. Thanks to the timely arrival of Gravity I'm probably better trained than I have been in a few years. Since Christmas I have been their an average of 3 times a week which is a lot considering I hadn't even been to a wall for two years before that. Have only climbed once in the last week but badly needed a rest before that. Feel a bit over rested now but its probably no harm if I'm planning to climb 4 days in a row.
Its always a challenge to get the most out of trips to Font. I'm not a big fan of rest days which means the body especially the elbows really start to hurt after a few days. The circuits at the wall have been great for doing volume so hopefully that will help be I feel no matter what I did I will be in agony on the last day. When I went in September I climbed for 6 out of the 7 days, granted I stuck to blues and didn't climb too much each day but I found after about 5 days the pain started to get a little better rather than worse.
Did a bit of research (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19372.0/all.html)and did up a ticklist of sorts. No really a ticklist more a list of problems I would like to look at and try if I can.
Là où Finit la Raie des Fesses | Isatis | 7a | http://bleau.info/isatis/1777.html |
L'Ultime Secret | Isatis | 7a+ | http://bleau.info/isatis/2732.html |
Delicatessen | Puiselet Le Paradis | 6c | http://bleau.info/puiselet/9750-7174.html |
Biotope | Puiselet Mont Sarrasin | 7a | http://bleau.info/sarrazin/14322.html |
Duroxmanie | Cuivier Est | 6c | http://bleau.info/cuvierest/1535.html |
Beatlejuice stand | Cuisinière | 6a |
|
Le Surplomb de la Coquille | Franchard | 6c | http://bleau.info/plaines/1547.html |
Beurre Marga | Isatis | 6b+ | http://bleau.info/isatis/1538.html |
Le Toit Ouvrant | Isatis | 6a | http://bleau.info/isatis/8885.html |
L'Angle du Sérac / L'angle Facial | Isatis | 6b+ | http://bleau.info/isatis/2355.html |
Le Cure-Dents, L'Arc de Cercle, Le Grand Dièdre | 91.1 | 5+/ 6a/ 6a+ |
|
Travaux Forcés | Gorge aux Chats | 6b | http://bleau.info/chats/1546.html |
La Voie Michaud | Elephant | 6c | http://bleau.info/elephant/7850.html |
Le Swing Medium | Buthiers | 6b | http://bleau.info/y/8200.html |
Moondance | Cuisinière Crête Sud | 6a | http://bleau.info/cretesud/3262.html |
Duel dans la Lune | 95.2 | 6c | http://bleau.info/95.2/1548.html |
Le Kilo de Beurre | 95.2 | 5 | http://bleau.info/95.2/3763.html |
Le Trou du Simon | Cuivier | 6a | http://bleau.info/cuvier/1953.html |
Le Bossu | Rocher Canon | 6b | http://bleau.info/canon/3291.html |
La Clavicule / Kilo de Beurre / Pif Paf | Cuivier | 5+/6b/7a | http://bleau.info/cuvier/1149.html |
Gigi | Gorge Aux Chats | 6b | http://bleau.info/chats/9029.html |
Le Meilleur des Mondes | Bois Rond | 6a | http://bleau.info/rond/1796.html |
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering feature in this Sunday's Sunday Times (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/JiiNER5IoFg/bouldering-feature-in-this-sundays.html)
22 February 2012, 7:44 pm
This Sunday's week's Sunday Times (I can't time of a less crap way of putting it a bit better) will have a two page spread about bouldering in Ireland. Check it out.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7967662339284921773?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/JiiNER5IoFg)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Sunday Times article (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/BVKU4p2MxxA/sunday-times-article.html)
26 February 2012, 6:13 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zvhbg4O-SkA/T0n8WHC4O2I/AAAAAAAAACc/a5qMin5m0LQ/s400/20120226_092759-791364.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zvhbg4O-SkA/T0n8WHC4O2I/AAAAAAAAACc/a5qMin5m0LQ/s1600/20120226_092759-791364.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6567807645993858631?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/BVKU4p2MxxA)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Font trip (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/TTel5vaITOo/font-trip.html)
28 February 2012, 10:26 am
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzHZvJzYddM/T0ypB3bibgI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/1HHgMeS71-8/s400/IMG_3423.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzHZvJzYddM/T0ypB3bibgI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/1HHgMeS71-8/s1600/IMG_3423.JPG) |
| L'Angle du Serac, Isatis. |
Spent Thursday morning to Monday morning in Font. Trip was a great laugh but not ideal from a climbing point of view, first day was a washout, damp, still and misty, the second and third day we got a few hours climbing on a limited number of problems in 95.2, the fourth day was much better and we climbed in Isatis which was pretty dry by the afternoon. I managed to bruise both my heels on the first days climbing, thanks to our very soft hire pads. They were very sore and prevented me getting the most out of the good day. I have come to the conclusion that while I enjoy the atmosphere of bouldering in a big group I don't find it very motivating (maybe I've spent too much time climbing on my own). I don't have an interest in being part of a procession up a problem. I need to do more sloping off on my own when I'm in that situation.
Didn't make any dent on the ticklist but did put some time into L'Angle du Serac, a very clear arete in Isatis. It is purely technical in the sense that strength doesn't come into it, the only hand hold - the arete - is good and you don't even really pull on it. It's all about body position and footwork. In the photo my left foot is on the downward sloping credit card edge that you need to stand up on to reach the top. Great problem.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-85rkn1BNrn0/T0yraO84XZI/AAAAAAAAA8g/SEJGOWgyNto/s400/IMG_3330.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-85rkn1BNrn0/T0yraO84XZI/AAAAAAAAA8g/SEJGOWgyNto/s1600/IMG_3330.JPG)
We stayed in a very nice gite south of Nemours (number 96 I think) which made for a lot of driving which was a bit of a pain. It was blessed with a table tennis table which saw heavy traffic and blunted the edge of the frustration with the weather.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6184150405321679759?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/TTel5vaITOo)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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3rock (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/zk_fOuXaHLY/3rock.html)
29 February 2012, 9:14 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G4AOt_TckFE/T06Uzk-AWgI/AAAAAAAAA8o/yjsU6Twv5uw/s400/IMG_3567.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G4AOt_TckFE/T06Uzk-AWgI/AAAAAAAAA8o/yjsU6Twv5uw/s1600/IMG_3567.JPG)
Had an hour up on 3rock this morning, doing some new to me problems and getting some photos for the updated connoisseur's guide. Was a beautiful spring day with not a breeze. So not great conditions but it would be very myopic to complain about that.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7808817681653994294?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/zk_fOuXaHLY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Irish climbing scene? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/f3XkYO3QpB0/irish-climbing-scene.html)
1 March 2012, 7:38 pm
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2rH6sge9NZw/T0-DfyVMgnI/AAAAAAAAA8w/JFYKje8QK10/s400/6911051473_fc427a147d_b.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2rH6sge9NZw/T0-DfyVMgnI/AAAAAAAAA8w/JFYKje8QK10/s1600/6911051473_fc427a147d_b.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Photo: Seán Walsh.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
The bouldering meet has been running for 8 years now and has had its ups and downs in that time. It started with a bang, followed by a lull and now is in a steady state. While the attendance is usually pretty good at the boulders not many make the effort to stick around overnight in the hut. Every year this gets me thinking about the Irish scene. Is there one? Why is it so shit? etc.
I went along to the bouldering championships in Gravity a few weeks ago to put up posters for the meet. I was amazed and disappointed at the low attendance. Granted there was loads of kids there, which is great, but very few - maybe a dozen - older climbers. It looked like a youth comp. Gravity is a great venue for a comp, there was loads of space, the problems looked great, the weather was crap so where was everyone? Granted entry was pricey (€20 online in advance or €30 on the day plus you had to join MI (€44.20), so potentially €74.20) and that is something that should be looked at.
For the last few years there has been a climbing meet in the Gap of Dunloe in late spring. There is always a good attendance from a core of Cork and Kerry climbers but again very few make the effort to travel.
Trish (http://trishboulders.blogspot.com/)did her talk for the IMC recently and apparently only a few greybeards and a few neophyte students attended.
Ireland is a small country with a small number of climbers so you might expect they would be a tight knit group but it doesn't seem to work that way. Each group seems to be focused on it's own area, rarely straying far. There are plenty of events (Gap meet, Fair Head meet, bouldering meet for starters) just limping along never really achieving their potential.
In Dublin it seems that most climbers are friendly with each other, but that doesn't seem to be the case in some other parts of the country. Personality clashes and grudges while not rife definitely are common.
So what makes a good scene? Lots of friendly rivalry, active climbers, new routes, good communication, good attendance by non-locals at organised events or even just lots of climbers travelling around the country.
Now I'm not on facebook so maybe I'm missing out on loads of interesting info but looking at the others Irish climbing sites there is very little going on. There very few bloggers and very little in the way of information flow about what people are up - that is assuming people are up to anything. Maybe some of this is an Irish reticence to blow one's own trumpet. If so I wish people would get over it, it's possible to share without boasting.
Well?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8287392656477195279?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/f3XkYO3QpB0)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Readers required for my next book (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Qww2BOZGkQE/readers-required-for-my-next-book.html)
7 March 2012, 8:45 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FRswCFYoBcA/T1fIdm5n2uI/AAAAAAAAA9s/7VWyKALI2Eg/s400/startbouldering.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FRswCFYoBcA/T1fIdm5n2uI/AAAAAAAAA9s/7VWyKALI2Eg/s1600/startbouldering.jpg)
For the last few months I have been working on my next book. It's a bouldering "how to" book aimed at beginners, I haven't decided onthe final format (free ebook, paid ebook, paper book). And it's still far from finished but I'm looking for a few climbers who would be willing to read through chapters as they are written and give feedback. You don't need to be an expert in fact it might be better if you are relatively new to climbing.
If you are interested send me an email at flanagandavid at hotmail dot com. I would also be keen to hear from anyone who has any bouldering photos I might be interested in.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3954140604222504076?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Qww2BOZGkQE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Nice Font video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/KJ7i_hJe5OI/nice-font-video.html)
8 March 2012, 1:16 pm
Retour aux Sources - Fontainebleau 2012 (http://vimeo.com/36857965) from davsck (http://vimeo.com/davsck) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4433035273376084343?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/KJ7i_hJe5OI)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering Meet 2012 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/yJiylF7of-g/bouldering-meet-2012.html)
12 March 2012, 2:48 pm
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hGWoQhHwFoA/T14GuDhJ0cI/AAAAAAAAA90/OdzlmmUU-7M/s320/IMG_3682.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hGWoQhHwFoA/T14GuDhJ0cI/AAAAAAAAA90/OdzlmmUU-7M/s1600/IMG_3682.JPG) |
| The view from Zef's boulder at midnight. |
Friday night was a late one for some of us but we still got to the bouldering before midday on Saturday. It was a dry and mild with a tiny hint of rain that never happened. There wasn't a huge number of people around so it felt a bit like any given Sunday in Glendo. Saturday night was a pretty mellow affair but we went for a climb on Zef's boulder just before midnight which was a little strange but very worthwhile. Sunday was perfect. Well far too hot for optimal friction but that didn't seem to matter. 7 of us headed to Lough Dan which was a great call. We checked out a few of the ultra classics including Shadow, 3 Kings, Karma, Driving Seat and Tony's Arete.
The attendance was low but I'm not going to dwell on that, if people don't bother coming it's their loss. Thanks to everyone who did bother I hope it was worth it.
Was anyone in Glendo on Sunday?
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-izXr0OStsEc/T14G1rM5k3I/AAAAAAAAA98/cKzKB8Fv-Kk/s320/IMG_3676.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-izXr0OStsEc/T14G1rM5k3I/AAAAAAAAA98/cKzKB8Fv-Kk/s1600/IMG_3676.JPG) |
| Tim on Black Art. |
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ja_yw7MOFv4/T14HGWxPNjI/AAAAAAAAA-U/cGLs8XNwALM/s320/IMG_3717.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ja_yw7MOFv4/T14HGWxPNjI/AAAAAAAAA-U/cGLs8XNwALM/s1600/IMG_3717.JPG) |
| David on his second ever topout. |
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SK_sm3hC3jc/T14G7LmCSuI/AAAAAAAAA-E/VgsBi4SPtZM/s400/IMG_3708.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SK_sm3hC3jc/T14G7LmCSuI/AAAAAAAAA-E/VgsBi4SPtZM/s1600/IMG_3708.JPG) |
| Dec on 3 Kings. |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--cwkH1M1ryA/T14HJSOODhI/AAAAAAAAA-c/_w1TBEuqOBw/s400/IMG_3726.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--cwkH1M1ryA/T14HJSOODhI/AAAAAAAAA-c/_w1TBEuqOBw/s1600/IMG_3726.JPG) |
| Queue on the Karma boulder |
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Shadow, Lough Dan (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/8xTmbvBGc5k/shadow-lough-dan.html)
14 March 2012, 5:40 pm
Dec on Shadow in Lough Dan, one of the best problems around.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6189879612082388311?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/8xTmbvBGc5k)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Gap of Dunloe Climbing Meet 2012 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/30LqXOhMoU8/gap-of-dunloe-climbing-meet-2012.html)
19 March 2012, 1:57 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GEH7BwJLIWg/T2c7ENLtywI/AAAAAAAAA_E/hSD72KHL0vA/s400/IMG_1590.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GEH7BwJLIWg/T2c7ENLtywI/AAAAAAAAA_E/hSD72KHL0vA/s1600/IMG_1590.JPG)The fourth annual Gap of Dunloe climbing meet will take place from Friday 13th to Sunday 15th of April.
Camping in Con's field behind the Dunloe Golf Course. Toilets and water on site. Camp fire provided, bring your instruments!
There is loads of great bouldering in the Gap and Black Valley and the meet is a great time to check it out. There are even some routes I believe.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7032304584372225692?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/30LqXOhMoU8)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Raven's Glen/Tonduff/O'Tooles Rocks (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/TEZH_JD_J5Y/ravens-glentonduffotooles-rocks.html)
22 March 2012, 3:53 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2rL3514YvM/T2tF0W4i9cI/AAAAAAAAA_M/e_zLBBIkrk4/s320/w-paddy2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-y2rL3514YvM/T2tF0W4i9cI/AAAAAAAAA_M/e_zLBBIkrk4/s1600/w-paddy2.jpg)Yesterday Dave Ayton put up a photo of a boulder on his blog (http://daveaytonsblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/discovery.html). I recognised the boulder immediately having climbed on it many times. It's in Raven's Glen on the side of Tonduff mountain in Wicklow. The valley is about 15mins from Crone carpark.
Starting in the summer of 1999 some friends and I visited and climbed about ten routes on the cliffs. We also did some bouldering. We spent many weekends camping up there and messing about, we abseiled down the waterfalls, slide down the large slab where the stream runs in an inflatable boat. Pure fuckology. Most of the routes where a little scrappy some were decent. Soon after that bouldering took 100% of my focus.
I went back a few times over the years as my memory of the place faded and I felt there must be some good bouldering there. Plus it's not far from Dublin and the walk in is easy. There is a decent looking boulder close to the track. There is a good line up the middle of the front face and a nice right arete. Used to try them every time we walked by. I even went last summer and got eated by midge and the sharp granite.
Raven's Glen (http://vimeo.com/38929602) from Dave Ayton (http://vimeo.com/user2027575) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/)
So when Dave posted up his photo and video - see above - I wondered all over again had I missed something. He emailed me and I gave him a rundown of the history of the place.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bML0qSG0h0s/T2tHjJan3sI/AAAAAAAAA_U/SwAm9ODn90M/s320/IMG_3797.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bML0qSG0h0s/T2tHjJan3sI/AAAAAAAAA_U/SwAm9ODn90M/s1600/IMG_3797.JPG)
We met up this morning and had a wander around. We tried the lines on the boulder but I was defeated as much by the sharpness of the rock as anything. We moved up and looked at the roof, which was a lot wetter than earlier in the week. This is Dave's project which he's hoping to do when it dries.
Dave had to rush off and I wandered up the higher tier and indulged in some nostalgia. It's a wonderful little valley especially near the top of the water slide. It looks like it has become more popular as a walking route in recent years as the tracks are well trod.
Funnily enough I had planned to come back and repeat some of the routes we did years ago. So I think I will still do that. On balance I found the rock a bit too sharp and dirty for quality bouldering through if it had enough traffic and was cleaned really well something could be made of the place.
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzqydD495og/T2tKFJa_KfI/AAAAAAAAA_c/AkX95V0fSEE/s320/IMG_3829.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kzqydD495og/T2tKFJa_KfI/AAAAAAAAA_c/AkX95V0fSEE/s1600/IMG_3829.JPG) |
| Dave's Project tackles the RHS of the roof. |
I believe a few people are heading out on Saturday for a look, I would be keen to hear what they think of the place.
After having complained recently about retroclaims, I think I should go and write up the routes we did on the wiki. I put the detail up on this website a long time ago but I don't think anyone read it then.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8712243805196695909?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/TEZH_JD_J5Y)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Lonely Boulder - video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/ClZ9dj6EgxY/lonely-boulder-video.html)
23 March 2012, 12:30 am
The Lonely Boulder (http://vimeo.com/39019520) from Richard Creagh (http://vimeo.com/user10965948) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Great video by Richard Creagh (http://richardcreagh.com/) of his ascent of a new problem - Puddle Arete - on The Lonely Boulder, Achill Island, Mayo. See topo here (http://www.theshortspan.com/guide/achill.pdf). Richard got up at 5 in the morning to squeeze in a bit of bouldering before work.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3326392817527702333?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/ClZ9dj6EgxY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Kinky Reggae, Glenmalure - video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/2_TvetoTziQ/kinky-reggae-glenmalure-video.html)
23 March 2012, 9:50 am
kinky reggae (http://vimeo.com/39027464) from chris rooney (http://vimeo.com/user5251269) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Chris Rooney on the ss to Kinky Reggae, Ballinafhusogue Boulder, Glenmalure, Wicklow.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1079872745632286291?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/2_TvetoTziQ)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Gap of Dunloe - video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Uaf-tiKhSTc/gap-of-dunloe-video.html)
25 March 2012, 7:21 pm
Some 6s From The Southwest (http://vimeo.com/39135558) from Barry (http://vimeo.com/user7630611) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Some problems in the 6th grade at the gap of Dunloe, in the Southwest of ireland, on the Turnpike and Hex boulders. By Barry O'Dwyer.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5281359424924773379?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Uaf-tiKhSTc)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Old photos (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/0Sud8MkA8jE/old-photos.html)
26 March 2012, 2:37 pm
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsO4Ji73cC0/T3B7dvpywnI/AAAAAAAAA_k/ge51WjxDWPk/s320/IMG_3835.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qsO4Ji73cC0/T3B7dvpywnI/AAAAAAAAA_k/ge51WjxDWPk/s1600/IMG_3835.jpg) |
| Ped on Three Rock |
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kz1i_VH2-9Q/T3B7fyqO6SI/AAAAAAAAA_s/p25r65e0vNQ/s320/IMG_3836.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kz1i_VH2-9Q/T3B7fyqO6SI/AAAAAAAAA_s/p25r65e0vNQ/s1600/IMG_3836.jpg) |
| Ped latching the dyno on the Third Rock |
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K6pQrbjjB6U/T3B7g2ZpCjI/AAAAAAAAA_0/_kLjTYdkIfY/s320/IMG_3844.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K6pQrbjjB6U/T3B7g2ZpCjI/AAAAAAAAA_0/_kLjTYdkIfY/s1600/IMG_3844.jpg) |
| More Three Rock, round the back of the Third |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xD71zjK_I6U/T3B7kcJiHCI/AAAAAAAAA_8/kz2jLCg2LYA/s320/IMG_3855.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xD71zjK_I6U/T3B7kcJiHCI/AAAAAAAAA_8/kz2jLCg2LYA/s1600/IMG_3855.jpg) |
| Ped on The Plum, Glendo |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1owihfs-4fw/T3B7lmrkCpI/AAAAAAAABAE/v7OjU62PiVM/s320/IMG_3856.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1owihfs-4fw/T3B7lmrkCpI/AAAAAAAABAE/v7OjU62PiVM/s1600/IMG_3856.jpg) |
| James Gernon on The Plum |
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap_4hzxwB8A/T3B7o9ljj2I/AAAAAAAABAM/NpzmojpCh58/s320/IMG_3862.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ap_4hzxwB8A/T3B7o9ljj2I/AAAAAAAABAM/NpzmojpCh58/s1600/IMG_3862.jpg) |
| Ped in The Scalp |
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QyiIfRudCl0/T3B7qNxiWxI/AAAAAAAABAQ/uRk_JX0EcYs/s320/IMG_3863.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QyiIfRudCl0/T3B7qNxiWxI/AAAAAAAABAQ/uRk_JX0EcYs/s1600/IMG_3863.jpg) |
| Add caption |
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHPusEa1Z5Q/T3B7rFN553I/AAAAAAAABAc/bTyOK_X3BAg/s320/IMG_3868.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rHPusEa1Z5Q/T3B7rFN553I/AAAAAAAABAc/bTyOK_X3BAg/s1600/IMG_3868.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]My makeshift bouldering mat[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlLqAXGGgr8/T3B7uoU-TmI/AAAAAAAABAk/4F6yLmDGElg/s320/IMG_3870.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlLqAXGGgr8/T3B7uoU-TmI/AAAAAAAABAk/4F6yLmDGElg/s1600/IMG_3870.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]My tshirt boulder mat in Font[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz2jhJIub9w/T3B7vsDNPKI/AAAAAAAABAo/40Ca8Db_n8c/s320/IMG_3871.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qz2jhJIub9w/T3B7vsDNPKI/AAAAAAAABAo/40Ca8Db_n8c/s1600/IMG_3871.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Neal in 95.2[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkxHEVkjim4/T3B7wo71SpI/AAAAAAAABA0/yG0-MB96C4I/s320/IMG_3873.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HkxHEVkjim4/T3B7wo71SpI/AAAAAAAABA0/yG0-MB96C4I/s1600/IMG_3873.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]A young Big Jim[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxuGO3SAJwI/T3B7y-kS2XI/AAAAAAAABA8/jJwRi5dmjIk/s320/IMG_3874.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JxuGO3SAJwI/T3B7y-kS2XI/AAAAAAAABA8/jJwRi5dmjIk/s1600/IMG_3874.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The orginal O'Dwyer in Glendo[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ns7TEcbUu0I/T3B70yMmAwI/AAAAAAAABBE/49jtoeFK_CQ/s320/IMG_3876.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ns7TEcbUu0I/T3B70yMmAwI/AAAAAAAABBE/49jtoeFK_CQ/s1600/IMG_3876.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The group that developed Carrickinfinn, Easter 2003[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_zQXtB5hsa8/T3B71xton_I/AAAAAAAABBM/4O7YKWXY2vI/s320/IMG_3878.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_zQXtB5hsa8/T3B71xton_I/AAAAAAAABBM/4O7YKWXY2vI/s1600/IMG_3878.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Diarmuid and Ped in Tonduff, 2000?[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UDCRdtQPmH0/T3B75tvRvHI/AAAAAAAABBU/Pqt6WgjypXk/s320/IMG_3879.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UDCRdtQPmH0/T3B75tvRvHI/AAAAAAAABBU/Pqt6WgjypXk/s1600/IMG_3879.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The spooky gate in Tonduff[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4id0FDW48C4/T3B76s2a2zI/AAAAAAAABBc/1B-HtLDxvcI/s320/IMG_3880.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4id0FDW48C4/T3B76s2a2zI/AAAAAAAABBc/1B-HtLDxvcI/s1600/IMG_3880.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ped on the slide in Tonduff[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wzC2pemTFFc/T3B77ptK16I/AAAAAAAABBk/_g7A6dRPMjQ/s320/IMG_3884.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wzC2pemTFFc/T3B77ptK16I/AAAAAAAABBk/_g7A6dRPMjQ/s1600/IMG_3884.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Me on a route[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a_IfsJVq3cA/T3B78rl4LLI/AAAAAAAABBs/q_dhtoIIBz8/s320/IMG_3886.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a_IfsJVq3cA/T3B78rl4LLI/AAAAAAAABBs/q_dhtoIIBz8/s1600/IMG_3886.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Kev Byrne in Glendo, 1998?
Earliest bouldering photo I have.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KSS5w7XOwo8/T3B7_TwrIjI/AAAAAAAABB0/nlktLdiOMYc/s320/IMG_3888.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KSS5w7XOwo8/T3B7_TwrIjI/AAAAAAAABB0/nlktLdiOMYc/s1600/IMG_3888.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Sparkle on our second trip to Glenmac[/td][/tr]
[/table](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1852111614996528155?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/0Sud8MkA8jE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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A few old videos (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/W4SWhBH_Wi4/few-old-videos.html)
27 March 2012, 7:19 pm
Specially for Barry.
ss
Please forgive the typo.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5545150808432959214?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/W4SWhBH_Wi4)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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An Irish Bouldering forum? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/HWXRXPV8n4A/irish-bouldering-forum.html)
28 March 2012, 11:08 am
Someone, Chris I think, commented on this post (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2012/03/irish-climbing-scene.html) about the Irish bouldering scene that what we need is a decent message board. The current message board (http://theshortspan.com/mboard/mboard.php) is pretty minimalist in terms of features and doesn't see a whole lot of traffic.
Would people think it would be a good idea to set up a Simple Machines Forum (http://www.simplemachines.org/) in the style of UkBouldering (http://ukbouldering.com/board)?
For starter we could keep the structure of it pretty simple and expand as necessary but it would allow people to PM, get notified of new replies, only see new messages all that stuff.
What do people think?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-308981167516175842?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/HWXRXPV8n4A)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Raven's Glen - video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/fieegNMYuQI/ravens-glen-video.html)
29 March 2012, 11:51 am
Dave Ayton just put up a video from Raven's Glen.
Raven's Glen - revisited (http://vimeo.com/39259577) from Dave Ayton (http://vimeo.com/user2027575) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
"Following on from the successful first visit, we turned up in greater numbers with more pads - lots of new lines and repeats. The newly established lines getting traffic and bringing them into good condition for future ascents. John stumbled on a great featured roof with potential for loads of lines and link-ups. Topo available here:
daveaytonsblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/new-topo-up-to-date.html (http://daveaytonsblog.blogspot.com/2012/03/new-topo-up-to-date.html) "
Once the dust settles I will do up a topo and add it to the book updates.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8721823559901290057?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/fieegNMYuQI)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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New Irish Bouldering Forum (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/dmJlj22CFNs/new-irish-bouldering-forum.html)
30 March 2012, 9:37 am
The new Irish Bouldering Forum is ready.
www.theshortspan.com/smf (http://www.theshortspan.com/smf)
At the moment it is pretty simple with only one board and if the traffic justifies it I will add more.
Please remember
- Be nice to each other.
- I would prefer if people used their real names. Pseudo anonymous posts will be moderated heavily ie. you can get away with me if you put your name to it.
PS. main site is down for a short while. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1776579290023185651?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/dmJlj22CFNs)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Grand friday (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/UyHs7TfO_zQ/grand-friday.html)
6 April 2012, 6:41 pm
Initially planned to go to the Quarry but decided to take the chance and head further a field. I prefer to keep local places like the Quarry and the Scalp for the evenings or when I don't have time to go further.
(http://www.pasyalera.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/banaue-rice-terraces_09.jpg) (http://www.pasyalera.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/banaue-rice-terraces_09.jpg)I believe there was a good few out in the Scalp today. Would be good to get a regular mid-week session going there.
Went down to a misty Wicklow Gap. Was pretty cold when we got out of the car. The inital boulders we visted were wet thanks to the driving mist, spotted a really nice slabby wall with around 5/6 nice looking slabs on it. The landing is slightly sloping but nothing a bit of light engineering can't sort.
Went to a more sheltered hillside and looked at a few things. Had a micro-revelation about the sheer volume of rock in the Wicklow Hills. There is tons, a lifetime easily. I keep a list of projects I want to climb/clean/try and it only gets longer. Probably added another dozen problems to it today.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_CIA55he4oM/T384WjQy5lI/AAAAAAAABCE/XTiLHGcR-wY/s320/IMG_4573-web.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_CIA55he4oM/T384WjQy5lI/AAAAAAAABCE/XTiLHGcR-wY/s1600/IMG_4573-web.jpg)Played on a rock I had been to a few times before and spotted a line that I'm not sure how I missed. Almost perfect arete, has holds but looks hard. Very highball, a route really. Going to try it on a rope once Ped gets me my stakes.
Ped and I spent ages on a nice rounded yoke. The crucial holds were filthy and we didn't have the mean to clean it. Ped has a ladder for me down in Munster which should be perfect for that sort of thing. We gave it a good few goes. nice moves. Codename: Optimus Prime. Will go after a clean.
Stopped off at the hut on the way home and did the arete on Zef's boulder. Such nice rock, very draining problem. Bad value at 6a+ I'd say. Anyone done it?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0W6ALgH5s9A/T384Y5kX-wI/AAAAAAAABCM/vzphPaLH4eM/s400/IMG_4575-web.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0W6ALgH5s9A/T384Y5kX-wI/AAAAAAAABCM/vzphPaLH4eM/s1600/IMG_4575-web.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-435557400785356733?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/UyHs7TfO_zQ)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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theshortspan is updated (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/WDisaXCEjKY/theshortspan-is-updated.html)
10 April 2012, 6:10 pm
I updated theshortspan last week. Tidied up a bit and there is now a shiny new forum as well. There is a blogroll and list of the latest forum posts on the left column. The right column will be for news. I can only put up what I hear so let me know if you have done anything interesting or new or have any good photos or videos.
This blog will focus on my day to day stuff.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5878879277650081000?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/WDisaXCEjKY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Wicklow Gap (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/IC8UTSFDJw0/wicklow-gap.html)
10 April 2012, 7:04 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QLGpqv4DgoY/T4SBMavmoEI/AAAAAAAABCU/PX8dky0b_9s/s400/IMG_4654-web.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QLGpqv4DgoY/T4SBMavmoEI/AAAAAAAABCU/PX8dky0b_9s/s1600/IMG_4654-web.jpg)Got out early today to beat the rain. Checked out a few problems I tried in May 2010 (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/2010/05/wicklow-gap.html). Still couldn't do the roof (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_c3VFx-OHNEg/S_1mhO2OzHI/AAAAAAAAAjM/0lNB3FK2XzE/s1600/Copy+of+IMG_2383.JPG) but was very bloody close. Bit annoying really. Ran out of chalk is the offical excuse. Tried the slab to the left that I didn't bother with last time. Absolutely immaculate rough, blank granite. Gradually steepening with a bulge at the top. The very top was wet which didn't help. I had been wondering recently why we didn't have any/many good pure smeary slabs, well this is a prime example. There was one hold of sorts a tiny little divot but it wasn't much use. Just pure smearing. Great. Took a about 5 falls on it that invovled running down the slap and jumping for the pad. They all went ok but there was potential to bursting. (Pad is around 9 feet below and 9 feet out from your feet at the crux). Will come back to it when it's dry.
Then drove up to the Wicklow Gap carpark and walked down to a boulder Seamus did some problems on a few years back. There are maybe, 4/5 quality lines on it. Some needed a bit of a clean. The central line took a lot of effort interuppted by rain and hail showers. Finally got it even though the top holds were damp. 6a+ maybe. Be interesting to see what Seamus gave it. I used every trick in the book to get up it. Thumb-cutting. Palm pinches.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1WRWz7U2gC0/T4SCLxuMN3I/AAAAAAAABCc/haoE0tjE3tM/s400/IMG_4697-web.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1WRWz7U2gC0/T4SCLxuMN3I/AAAAAAAABCc/haoE0tjE3tM/s1600/IMG_4697-web.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Did a bit of photoshop on this, is it overdone?[/td][/tr]
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Really enjoyed the battle. As much as I was on my own and had to work it out entirely for myself. Don't think I would of put as much in (= get as much out) if I had company. Does that make me a prospective serial killer?
Then went and sorted some landing for 2 great looking slab problems but was too wet to try them at that stage.
Got a call from James Gernon who got lost looking for Gullyblock. The shame of it (for me). I can easily imagine crawling through a dense forest guidebook in hand cursing me.
Lots happening at the moment which is great. Must of been that moan I had about the scene. It feels like I (my pals and I) have had the place to ourselves for years, which was cool, but it's great to see other people getting out there exploring, cleaning and climbing new problems. For year it's all been about Glendo and I'm glad to see people looking beyond that. Thought to be honest it takes a little getting used to, I definitely have a sense of urgeny now, which is good. But there is plenty to go around anyway.
Good day. Lucky with the weather.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4143960954309855991?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/IC8UTSFDJw0)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Scalp slab (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/K1S04KNbqbA/scalp-slab.html)
24 April 2012, 4:02 pm
Went to the Scalp this morning to clean a slab that we had tried just over ten years ago. I abbed down and gave it a good clean, some of the ivy had even taken good hold. Sorted the landing and tried the moves on the rope. At first they felt desperate and in my head I had decided I was going to leave it, but after a rest it came together very quickly. I quickly did the crux a few times in a row, which invovles palming down on a smear and a large crystal. Was pleased but this also meant I was going to have to do it.
It's not that high but the ground drops away and there is a rock. I went through the rest of the moves and gave it another brush. I started trying it from the ground without the rope and it felt pretty ok but I decided to leave it. I will get back later in the week with another pad and a spotter.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3434137168374916535?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/K1S04KNbqbA)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Connemara double (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/K-zH87ljM3Q/connemara-double.html)
29 April 2012, 11:54 pm
On Saturday I had the privilege of climbing the 'best route in Connemara' and the 'best boulder problem in Connemara', Carrot Ridge and Highawatta. I christened it the Connemara double.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x4zpfamTmek/T53TXYOZ2II/AAAAAAAABCk/XlDLznaeH2g/s640/IMG_5131.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x4zpfamTmek/T53TXYOZ2II/AAAAAAAABCk/XlDLznaeH2g/s1600/IMG_5131.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Carrot Ridge in the stepped ridge on the LHS of the crag[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKgJSy-MEC4/T53TYhJdMkI/AAAAAAAABCs/c7txq4qu1D8/s400/IMG_5204.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hKgJSy-MEC4/T53TYhJdMkI/AAAAAAAABCs/c7txq4qu1D8/s1600/IMG_5204.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ped on P3 just after he broke a foothold[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IOl18UBClM8/T53TZnajRUI/AAAAAAAABCw/VtHsxhiA6d4/s640/IMG_5207.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IOl18UBClM8/T53TZnajRUI/AAAAAAAABCw/VtHsxhiA6d4/s1600/IMG_5207.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The top of the Second Step[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yEAj56YiUdM/T53TaYrExgI/AAAAAAAABC8/ZathQfiCATY/s640/IMG_5222.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yEAj56YiUdM/T53TaYrExgI/AAAAAAAABC8/ZathQfiCATY/s1600/IMG_5222.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Two down jackets[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZABOmUqy1M/T53TbtXvoJI/AAAAAAAABDE/6kU9m_CRrqg/s640/IMG_5247.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BZABOmUqy1M/T53TbtXvoJI/AAAAAAAABDE/6kU9m_CRrqg/s1600/IMG_5247.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Another party on P3[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A_Ls8hp5KHI/T53TdSeIyEI/AAAAAAAABDM/qXXNxFxFivI/s640/IMG_5289.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A_Ls8hp5KHI/T53TdSeIyEI/AAAAAAAABDM/qXXNxFxFivI/s1600/IMG_5289.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Highawatta.[/td][/tr]
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(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5871450657869940923?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/K-zH87ljM3Q)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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May bank holiday weekend - part 1 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/EV1yZIidd_c/may-bank-holiday-weekend-part-1.html)
8 May 2012, 12:23 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iE8bKRMvmrI/T6kPhIu-z6I/AAAAAAAABDY/szidzuYcHEs/s640/IMG_5158.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iE8bKRMvmrI/T6kPhIu-z6I/AAAAAAAABDY/szidzuYcHEs/s1600/IMG_5158.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FjPjraduzU8/T6kPhzt1aVI/AAAAAAAABDc/8c1caEqSXaw/s640/IMG_5170.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FjPjraduzU8/T6kPhzt1aVI/AAAAAAAABDc/8c1caEqSXaw/s1600/IMG_5170.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MeYrUVXxD44/T6kPi-jA8wI/AAAAAAAABDk/GgZj9mKb6EE/s640/IMG_5178.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MeYrUVXxD44/T6kPi-jA8wI/AAAAAAAABDk/GgZj9mKb6EE/s1600/IMG_5178.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pONeSUSEsJY/T6kPjnowL4I/AAAAAAAABDs/BaG53wQgbmA/s640/IMG_5180.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pONeSUSEsJY/T6kPjnowL4I/AAAAAAAABDs/BaG53wQgbmA/s1600/IMG_5180.jpg)
Got up early on Friday and hit the road with Diarmuid with the goal of doing Carrot Ridge and then catching the evening ferry to Inishmore. The drive was quick and we parked up at the end of the road and hot footed it. The walk is steep but wasn't as bad as last time - no hangover. Just as Diarmuid racked up it started to drizzle but it was never an issue and we were in and out of the cloud all day. D strung the first two pitches together, its a good long pitch but pretty easy, not sure it's even vdiff. Runout though. I swung one quick lead to the foot of p3 which has a steep start and then slabby to the base of the chimney. From the top of the chimney it's pretty easy but we moved together up the second step and then put the rope away. I dropped the nut key and had to go back down to get it. Second week in a row I have dropped something, last time it was my helmet.
Descend was tricky, quite steep and very loose scree. Have to avoid a few cliffs but very ok if you are patient and take your time. Where quicker than last time. Diarmuid can you remember the times? Took 1hr40 including photos shoots the diversion to get the nut key. Could be soloed in 40mins quite easily I would think.
Had plenty of time to sleep in the car park in Rossaveal and saw two very nice - "stop the car" - granite problems in a road cutting on the way.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCIzZfcP7GM/T6kPkk4kReI/AAAAAAAABD4/201r1Ln8mwQ/s640/IMG_5191.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eCIzZfcP7GM/T6kPkk4kReI/AAAAAAAABD4/201r1Ln8mwQ/s1600/IMG_5191.jpg)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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May bank holiday weekend - part 2 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/632ciswk9ww/may-bank-holiday-weekend-part-2.html)
8 May 2012, 12:59 pm
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGmnGk0r7QE/T6kUmcgWfqI/AAAAAAAABEE/QlLVRkK6r_c/s400/IMG_5249.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CGmnGk0r7QE/T6kUmcgWfqI/AAAAAAAABEE/QlLVRkK6r_c/s1600/IMG_5249.jpg) |
| Ped testing some very dodge blue rope anchors we found along the cliff top. |
Forecast wasn't great but it turned out pretty perfect. It only rained for a few hours on Sunday night the rest of the time it was sunny and windy.
I had done a decent bit of research for the trip but wasn't sure if we would get anything done. In the end we did one of the 3 routes. And it was probably the best one to have done.
We cycled to the Black Fort and walked west to the famous 'roof' which is cool but smaller than it looks in the photos.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1RZyxZ38uoA/T6kUntMkwsI/AAAAAAAABEM/sThhyUAyGOM/s400/IMG_5252.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1RZyxZ38uoA/T6kUntMkwsI/AAAAAAAABEM/sThhyUAyGOM/s1600/IMG_5252.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Would you hang your coat off this?[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ly3b3YMikfI/T6kUqU4XGeI/AAAAAAAABEc/9FHjhKf3Klw/s400/IMG_5260.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ly3b3YMikfI/T6kUqU4XGeI/AAAAAAAABEc/9FHjhKf3Klw/s1600/IMG_5260.jpg) We descend down the corners just east of it, called Fisherman's Route (Severe apparently). Ped happy in his runners, me fixing a rope. There is one vertical section that non-wads wouldn't down climb. We abbed this and pulled the rope behind us. Comitted now.
We walked east along the edges, admiring the very very steep cliffs. Steepest I've seen. There are a few routes including one horrible/brilliant looking bridging chimney. A creation of Big George Smith.
Around the corner was Poll Gorm where the ledges ran on and we were reduced to crawling for around 20m through a horizontal chimney, quite safe but painful and hard work. Our exit, a severe called The Big Easy was on the other side of the Poll. Initally we thought it might be 2 pitches but once we got prespective it was obvious it was only one (the wiki (http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Aran_Islands)saids 55m but its more like 40m). Diarmuid was to do the first pitch but I waved him on and he topped out. The crux is in the corner at the very end. Maybe a hard for severe. Sea cliff climbing is funny in that once you top out your route you are done. The very reverse of CR the day before.
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3IOzxKGlu0/T6kUoZAX84I/AAAAAAAABEU/7c6wQKzQ9T0/s400/IMG_5253.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3IOzxKGlu0/T6kUoZAX84I/AAAAAAAABEU/7c6wQKzQ9T0/s1600/IMG_5253.jpg) |
| VOYAGE OF THE ARCHAEN-TISE. |
A great day's adventure, to be recommened to any climber who's on the island. We where blessed with a very calm sea, it wouldn't be possible on a rough day.
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pNDXpfwUi5I/T6kUzEhkGtI/AAAAAAAABFU/e0mpGoN32Qo/s320/IMG_5337.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pNDXpfwUi5I/T6kUzEhkGtI/AAAAAAAABFU/e0mpGoN32Qo/s1600/IMG_5337.jpg) |
| The top of Big Easy. |
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7ivbrrU7j1U/T6kUxEWgMXI/AAAAAAAABFM/eEa4gTWYSIs/s640/IMG_5332.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7ivbrrU7j1U/T6kUxEWgMXI/AAAAAAAABFM/eEa4gTWYSIs/s1600/IMG_5332.jpg)
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TjElLJJleQ8/T6kUwNrv48I/AAAAAAAABFE/T7XsR0cnam4/s640/IMG_5330.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TjElLJJleQ8/T6kUwNrv48I/AAAAAAAABFE/T7XsR0cnam4/s1600/IMG_5330.jpg) |
| Poll Gorm. |
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PeWBevEpha8/T6kUukjSCgI/AAAAAAAABE8/YX5aLmxAZrg/s640/IMG_5322.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PeWBevEpha8/T6kUukjSCgI/AAAAAAAABE8/YX5aLmxAZrg/s1600/IMG_5322.jpg) |
| Starting the crawling section. |
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RaaL17OMQkY/T6kUtY922HI/AAAAAAAABE0/NIxQOE87HGc/s640/IMG_5305.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RaaL17OMQkY/T6kUtY922HI/AAAAAAAABE0/NIxQOE87HGc/s1600/IMG_5305.jpg)
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RoCvN9AYM0E/T6kUsJULBEI/AAAAAAAABEs/nolKP6gm7qg/s640/IMG_5289.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RoCvN9AYM0E/T6kUsJULBEI/AAAAAAAABEs/nolKP6gm7qg/s1600/IMG_5289.jpg) |
| Diarmuid abbing down the vertical section. |
| (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lfY_2NODKa0/T6kUrWGMCwI/AAAAAAAABEk/A-sBG9eZqcs/s640/IMG_5266.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lfY_2NODKa0/T6kUrWGMCwI/AAAAAAAABEk/A-sBG9eZqcs/s1600/IMG_5266.jpg) |
| Fisherman's Route goes down the ledges. |
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vvmvkp4m3aY/T6kYqHkBufI/AAAAAAAABFg/NYpeyv-FjWI/s640/IMG_5326-copy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vvmvkp4m3aY/T6kYqHkBufI/AAAAAAAABFg/NYpeyv-FjWI/s1600/IMG_5326-copy.jpg)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Viva Patagonia - First Ascent (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/9lASBhpb_Jc/viva-patagonia-first-ascent.html)
8 May 2012, 6:11 pm
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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New Scalp problem - Every given Sunday (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/oyE61rozNO0/new-scalp-problem-every-given-sunday.html)
12 May 2012, 1:21 pm
Nipped out this morning with Ped and did the slab in the Scalp. Built up the landing with a few more branches. Get to the lip a few times and jumped off before just commiting to it. Probably easier to go for it than have loads of goes feeling it out, especially as I knew the moves from last time. Ped said I shook my way up the last moves but I was deep in the zone at that stage, even Ped's nonsensical encouragment ("go on, it's a nice day to do it") couldn't pierce the bubble. Let out a good roar once I got the good hold and let the adrenaline wash over me.
It's a cool problem, the moves are around 5+ but dicey for it, the landing isn't bad but all in all it feels pretty highball. Would feel a lot harder ground up.
Then went over to The Casbah which has cleaned up nicely. Ped got it pretty quick, so that makes it either 6a or 7c+, not sure which. Just watched Ayton's video and Banana Fingers rocked up onto his heel must try that. Great problem. Ped than failed to lank Alison Curtis.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5873972641263534110?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/oyE61rozNO0)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Arete (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/mr_JOGHQ0So/arete.html)
13 May 2012, 6:55 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uF8y7u7qDzk/T7ADYIyxLPI/AAAAAAAABFw/xbZ2M9KwU-Q/s640/temp.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uF8y7u7qDzk/T7ADYIyxLPI/AAAAAAAABFw/xbZ2M9KwU-Q/s1600/temp.jpg) Went to check out this arete I've been trying for a while on and off. Made progress but would of liked to do it today. Nice and highball.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1622028521753500334?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/mr_JOGHQ0So)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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That Poll Gorm looks amazing.
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That Poll Gorm looks amazing.
There is some serious potential for hard sport climbing there.
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Hell yes. Spectacular bit of rock. If it was anywhere esle in europe it would look like a pincushion and be chipped to buggery.
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Video - Natural Method first ascent (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/2MYe_ZWw84k/video-natural-method-first-ascent.html)
19 May 2012, 9:11 am
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Great Gully Ridge (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/ZsFNhc0bu8k/great-gully-ridge.html)
22 May 2012, 6:50 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HXg5-z3rYnY/T7vcnFxP2cI/AAAAAAAABF8/K6xtdNuJbrI/s640/IMG_5328-copy.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HXg5-z3rYnY/T7vcnFxP2cI/AAAAAAAABF8/K6xtdNuJbrI/s1600/IMG_5328-copy.jpg)
Did Great Gully Ridge in Glenmalure today with James. Have wanted to do it for a good while and James suggested it instead of bouldering. Was cloudy and a bit dodgey looking on the drive down but it stayed dry, I even got a little sunburnt on my recedding hairline.
Walk in wasn't too bad a bit rough at the end but not long enough to tire badly on. James has done the route loads of times so he kindly left the choice bits for me.
The route is HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 140m on the wiki (http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Glenmalure). Which sounds about right to me. We did it in 5 pitches partly as we used a thin rope doubled so could only do 30m pitches and partly so I got the cruxes.
The first crux is the corner at the very start of the route, only really one move, then there is a good bit of easy ground to the middle crux which is a nice groove on a slab, followed by more scrambling to the third crux which is a steep pull up the corner with the peg.
(on the third crux is the groove with the old peg the standard way? There was a groove to the left that looked easier, it had a stuck cam on a white/grey sling at its base).
None of the cruxes where that hard usually just a few smeary steps with good handholds. All where very well protected.
We ambled up, not in a rush and abbed down.
It's a very nice route. Quite manageable, good fun. There is loads of tat and stuck gear on it, I suspect people are forced to back off it qutie often due to weather.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6428760368522281455?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/ZsFNhc0bu8k)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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3rock evening (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/JMYieZBsjYc/3rock-evening.html)
25 May 2012, 1:30 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7k1jKR-1F5M/T7-InNEbn4I/AAAAAAAABGg/kxDhAfbpYCM/s640/IMG_5449.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7k1jKR-1F5M/T7-InNEbn4I/AAAAAAAABGg/kxDhAfbpYCM/s1600/IMG_5449.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3RCbMUCxuRQ/T7-IRonwsaI/AAAAAAAABGI/9ZZPNsbGbw0/s400/IMG_5358.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3RCbMUCxuRQ/T7-IRonwsaI/AAAAAAAABGI/9ZZPNsbGbw0/s1600/IMG_5358.jpg)
Trish and I headed up Three Rock last night. Left the car after seven and got back just before the gate was due to close at ten. It's was Trish's first time so we started at the furthest boulder and she dispatched everything with ease. Even the hard mantle that probably isn't that hard. Especially now that a girl has done it. I felt like a bit of show pony, I have been bouldering up on Three Rock for a long time and while the flesh is weak the mind is strong and I have a lot of muscle memory. Brendan and James arrived just as I was demoing the dyno. Managed not to get it for the camera though.
Headed over to the second rock and went to work on the middle line. Great problem I haven't done it for ages and it felt pretty ok so I must be doing something right. It's pretty tricky, the secret being this funny pinch using the side of your thumb. After a few burns on the traverse we went to work on the great unclimbed line, to the right of the steep face is a short vertical wall. We all has a few goes but without progress.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_-FWe7V9hxA/T7-IULL_qPI/AAAAAAAABGQ/cpWtn0xX1C0/s400/IMG_5383.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_-FWe7V9hxA/T7-IULL_qPI/AAAAAAAABGQ/cpWtn0xX1C0/s1600/IMG_5383.jpg)I took some shots but my companions were dressed entirely in garnite-hued clothing (though someone forgot their undercrackers) so it was virtually pointless. Just like bouldering.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guzzRjnWOwQ/T7-ImqSAhRI/AAAAAAAABGY/U558TmGwEzI/s640/IMG_5411.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-guzzRjnWOwQ/T7-ImqSAhRI/AAAAAAAABGY/U558TmGwEzI/s1600/IMG_5411.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CsfKHALZoV4/T7-IpI4jzzI/AAAAAAAABGk/Ni-i4EGTc0M/s640/IMG_5459.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CsfKHALZoV4/T7-IpI4jzzI/AAAAAAAABGk/Ni-i4EGTc0M/s1600/IMG_5459.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_NvFechF83M/T7-IpjiGnDI/AAAAAAAABGw/AYLSTsJwUyM/s400/IMG_5469.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_NvFechF83M/T7-IpjiGnDI/AAAAAAAABGw/AYLSTsJwUyM/s1600/IMG_5469.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8yMLhqQhh4/T7-Ir20Y53I/AAAAAAAABG4/yjInrof2bAE/s640/IMG_5504.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T8yMLhqQhh4/T7-Ir20Y53I/AAAAAAAABG4/yjInrof2bAE/s1600/IMG_5504.jpg)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Sunday Times article about Carrot Ridge (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/COA0r4wxeEQ/sunday-times-article-about-carrot-ridge.html)
27 May 2012, 9:23 pm
I wrote a piece about Carrot Ridge for the Sunday Times.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gZMiSzDdI/T8KbQzO7mfI/AAAAAAAABHE/2rxmtMUrQ84/s640/IMG_5402-copy.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-D-gZMiSzDdI/T8KbQzO7mfI/AAAAAAAABHE/2rxmtMUrQ84/s1600/IMG_5402-copy.jpg)
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Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glanekeera part 4 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/RnfM0CwGRis/glanekeera-part-4.html)
29 May 2012, 8:29 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8TmtUqzzK78/T8UvzCqqLWI/AAAAAAAABHQ/c9HafpMqY4s/s320/IMG_5440.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8TmtUqzzK78/T8UvzCqqLWI/AAAAAAAABHQ/c9HafpMqY4s/s1600/IMG_5440.JPG)Got back to Glanekeera today. The ground was pretty dry got away with the runners. Climbed the arete on the first boulder as you walk in. Bit vegatated by nice.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHFG-pbxJ6I/T8UxmV_f8HI/AAAAAAAABH4/8Sf4PQ0CFCo/s640/Untitled_Panorama1-web.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rHFG-pbxJ6I/T8UxmV_f8HI/AAAAAAAABH4/8Sf4PQ0CFCo/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1-web.jpg)
As I walked to the Tyre boulder it started to spit but it held off for the rest of the day. Had about 15 million goes of the slab, couldn't get the first move. Probably wasn't a great day for smearing anyway. Must get back to this when it's a little colder. Really want to do it.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-9wNZ5cthg/T8Uv0WBzHGI/AAAAAAAABHY/aQNArFQ-VSw/s320/IMG_5453.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-9wNZ5cthg/T8Uv0WBzHGI/AAAAAAAABHY/aQNArFQ-VSw/s1600/IMG_5453.JPG)
Then strolled down to the vertical wall I has spied when here with Michael. Amazing line of undercuts/sidepulls on a vertical wall. Gave it a quick brush and got it a few tentative tries. Brilliant problem. Midge came out otherwise I would of given it a proper clean as it's a classic. Nice heather top out as well. I took a video of it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9G4UNtGFY4/T8Uv2Ofc7iI/AAAAAAAABHg/vsJ0ygTo9qQ/s640/IMG_5454.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u9G4UNtGFY4/T8Uv2Ofc7iI/AAAAAAAABHg/vsJ0ygTo9qQ/s1600/IMG_5454.JPG)
This is a very beautiful but sadly impossible slab. About 16 feet high with not a hold. On the right is a discontinous crack but it ends about 5 feet from the top. May go though.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SSCMi1NcOSY/T8Uv6upKPcI/AAAAAAAABHo/3Cw0FuuIeN4/s640/IMG_5462.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SSCMi1NcOSY/T8Uv6upKPcI/AAAAAAAABHo/3Cw0FuuIeN4/s1600/IMG_5462.JPG) Nice boulder with an excellent SS on the LHS that I will go back for.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MVbKDm06vEY/T8Uv7zA4ZKI/AAAAAAAABHw/v_VGpqixckU/s640/IMG_5463.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MVbKDm06vEY/T8Uv7zA4ZKI/AAAAAAAABHw/v_VGpqixckU/s1600/IMG_5463.JPG)
Loads of rock. This valley has large potential. There are a huge number of low route/highball outcrops. The rock is nice but needs a bit of a clean.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-7246918015204433949?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/RnfM0CwGRis)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glanekeera video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/D8wWqDlCwsA/glanekeera-video.html)
29 May 2012, 9:36 pm
The new problem. Haven't come up with a name yet.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-752148432246148157?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/D8wWqDlCwsA)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Virgin Gorda - Paradise Bouldering (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/w66bKs64b1M/virgin-gorda-paradise-bouldering.html)
8 June 2012, 12:09 pm
Virgin Gorda - Paradise Bouldering (http://vimeo.com/34760326) from Louder Than Eleven (http://vimeo.com/louderthan11) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
But would you swap here for there?(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-3314242390870236320?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/w66bKs64b1M)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Story of Two Worlds (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Gfsq4peJBhE/story-of-two-worlds.html)
11 June 2012, 6:10 pm
?The Story of Two Worlds low start V16? (http://vimeo.com/43727285) from project_daihold (http://vimeo.com/user6344048) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
The whole internet is raving about this video and with good reason. Some serious heel and toe hooking going on here.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1804172286624951637?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Gfsq4peJBhE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glendo (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/fxi0poV0F7w/glendo.html)
19 June 2012, 9:00 pm
Went to Glendo today with a list of shots to get for the book. It was sunny and there was a good breeze, I'd say the conditions would of been pretty good in the shade but I was in the sun taking photos. I downloaded some extra firmware for the camera called Magic Lantern that does lots of weird and wonderful things but most importantly for me it has an intervalometer and I can trigger shots by clapping which is pretty cool makes life a lot easier. The ground was pretty damp and there were lots of little streams crossing the path on the walk in. The river has also got pretty close to Big Jim could be a deep water solo soon. The recent rain has washed away all the chalk which was nice made the place feel nice and fresh. There is an impressive bare patch of earth below Smear Test. I bought some new tshirts just for the occasion and none of them were brown, green or grey. Makes all the difference.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I1ldDm83jg8/T-Dn0ffWqMI/AAAAAAAABIE/pLlclYWc4f8/s640/IMG_0266.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I1ldDm83jg8/T-Dn0ffWqMI/AAAAAAAABIE/pLlclYWc4f8/s1600/IMG_0266.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PMYmTCOQ22w/T-Dn4lM8SyI/AAAAAAAABIY/OSkpH6SH1bs/s640/IMG_0514.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PMYmTCOQ22w/T-Dn4lM8SyI/AAAAAAAABIY/OSkpH6SH1bs/s1600/IMG_0514.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ESsx9c3tYc/T-Dn3l_BPYI/AAAAAAAABIU/IZQRcik_6gM/s640/IMG_0411.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ESsx9c3tYc/T-Dn3l_BPYI/AAAAAAAABIU/IZQRcik_6gM/s1600/IMG_0411.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KFIrSSfhKiw/T-Dn2AMcFEI/AAAAAAAABIM/aRrXL4Rbrmo/s640/IMG_0328.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KFIrSSfhKiw/T-Dn2AMcFEI/AAAAAAAABIM/aRrXL4Rbrmo/s1600/IMG_0328.jpg)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-1524788787578355455?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/fxi0poV0F7w)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Real climbing? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/89M69SPs5w8/real-climbing.html)
14 August 2012, 3:20 pm
It's all quiet on the bouldering front so you will forgive me if I digress from the usual subject matter of this blog. I haven't bouldered for a few months now but I have been doing some trad climbing in the Quarry. The last few weeks I have been getting out a few evenings a week in an effort to steel myself for a trip to Donegal.
I started climbing in the Quarry and through my college years climbed there quite a lot. After that I got into bouldering and while I went back the odd time I haven't done much there for almost ten years. I always knew I would get back into trad, as a boulderer it's one of those things real climbers ask you regularly. Though I don't think I will forsake bouldering, I have too much I want to do and once the weather gets colder that's where the focus will be.
But right now I find trad fascinating. My goal has been to get solid rather than pick off a few harder soft touches. It would be pretty easy for even a mediocer boulderer like myself to go to the Quarry and do an E1 or two and then get their arse kicked an certain VS. So my goal is to be solid on HVS, any one, any time, without fuss.
So I have started slow, doing lots of S and HS and now I'm starting to venture onto some of the VS. And they are hard. Not hard moves but hard work. The trick I find is that it's easy just to pull through thinking it's only VS and that's why seconding can be hard as the route may be VS 4b but if you don't take the time to figure out the easiest sequence you might be doing 5a movs.
Did Helios recently which was great but a battle, an internal one, I don't think I do much shaking or shouting but I felt tested. Wouldn't of been so bad if I had a tricam for the borehold where I found myself thinking that I really didn't want to fall.
It seems to me trad is all about suppressing the fight or flight instinct and staying calm in the face of exposure or a tenious position or tiredness.
Going to stick with the VS for another few weeks and then seek out some of the easier HVSs.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6707676394026735228?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/89M69SPs5w8)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Facebook (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/445kTA6duqk/facebook.html)
23 August 2012, 2:15 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7AchKtZPyfI/UDY6aNPb4rI/AAAAAAAABIo/CIEpxiiKuE0/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7AchKtZPyfI/UDY6aNPb4rI/AAAAAAAABIo/CIEpxiiKuE0/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg)
Can across this on Alex Honnold facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Alex-Honnold/132274126826898?ref=ts). Good to see one of the worlds best climbers get told he is doing it all wrong by some total punt. Steer clear of Alex's page unless you want to see some of the saddest examples of lame hero worship. My favourite "You would be a really cool friend to have Alex! .(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5004415075274648487?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/445kTA6duqk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Coincidentally the "brother" mentioned in the post above used to be a mate and regular climbing partner.
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Well coincimental.
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Well coincimental.
Small world.
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Big Word.
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Cnoc Na Mara (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/cGNxTfCj2LQ/cnoc-na-mara.html)
30 August 2012, 6:49 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCGVVZwbLu4/UD-0m4MFwyI/AAAAAAAABJo/so1RMhhfZx0/s400/IMG_4713.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NCGVVZwbLu4/UD-0m4MFwyI/AAAAAAAABJo/so1RMhhfZx0/s1600/IMG_4713.JPG)
A fortnight ago Ped and I went up to Donegal hoping to climb the famous sea stack Cnoc Na Mara. I have followed Iain Miller sea stack exploits with great interest for years but it's was only recently when I started doing some trad that it become a possibility for me to have a go.
The Sunday Times were interested in an article about it so that sealed the deal and we set a date. I did as much research in advance studying photos and video and asking Iain plenty of questions partly because that's the way I roll and partly because I was daunted by the scale of the undertaking.
I didn't get as much trad climbing done as I would of liked this summer so I didn't exactly feel like an old hand but I assumed that even though the route got VS that the climbing itself would be at the lower end of the scale with the grade reflecting the overall effort of getting to the top.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gCaVvqCxq7Q/UD-0klOEQ9I/AAAAAAAABJk/8yf-wDBOzHQ/s400/IMG_4300.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gCaVvqCxq7Q/UD-0klOEQ9I/AAAAAAAABJk/8yf-wDBOzHQ/s1600/IMG_4300.JPG) For those who don't know much about Cnoc Na Mara it's pretty remote. A long drive down tiny roads leads to An Port from their its a 30 minute walk to the top of the descent gully which doesn't take too long to get to the bottom of (going up is a different story), then its a ab down to the beach, inflate your vessel and a short paddle leads to the base of the stack. From there it's 4 pitches to the top.
The forecast was bad for the first day so we booked into the rather rustic Dooey Hostel in Glencolmcille. It was quiet so we asked for and got the group house to ourselves, it basically a kip but for €15 a head a night it's good value.
So day 1 we walked in the pissing rain to check out the stack. It looked cool.
Day 2 the weather was pretty day sunny but with the odd shower. On the walk in you get a good view of the landward ridge of Cnoc, one section in particular looked very steep but we assumed it wasn't that bad once you got there. We got down to the beach after some minor difficulty finding the abseil pegs. The grass gully is really steep, a few degrees steeper and it wouldn't be possible to descend without a rope. I choose to slide down on my arse to save my legs, Ped kept his dignity and walked down.
Just as we where inflating the boat it started to piss so that was that. With the rock soaking we went for a quick paddle just to get a feel for it then tied the boat up and left. Iain uses a two person inflatable dingy but we brought my inflatable canoe which while a lot more robust and sea worthy weights a ton.
Day 3 started off rainy and we thought the jig was up. At this stage we where pretty sick of the will we won't we situation but it cleared up and we set off. I was nervous about the whole thing. Not in a bad way just aware that there was a lot of variables.
It turned out to be a glorious day and we got back to the boat and get everything ready to launch. We had a decent rack and double ropes in two drybags. The sea seemed pretty calm but there was still a 2m swell and landing on the stack was a bit tricky but I don't think we made a good fist of it. The sun was roasting and the sea felt warm so we weren't bothered that we got wet to the waist. We tied the boat up and I set off up the first pitch.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xEU1Urt1NRY/UD-0sBuvPZI/AAAAAAAABJ4/-rRimVBuO78/s400/IMG_4724.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xEU1Urt1NRY/UD-0sBuvPZI/AAAAAAAABJ4/-rRimVBuO78/s1600/IMG_4724.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]First pitch[/td][/tr]
[/table] The rock in the first few meters is beautiful but it goes downhill very quickly. I made my way up pretty easy ground with very little gear passing sea birds and lots of vegetation. The rock was very very loose. I think I was slightly off route and ended up on top of the ridge away from the first belay but the rope drag was too bad so I just took a firm stance and brought Ped up, shouting down "no falls". A quick traverse led to the rope sling that is the proper first belay. Ped wasn't leading so we swapped ends at each belay which was a small faff.
Second pitch was just a scramble along the ridge which I followed to where it got steep. There was a steep wall a ledge led left around the corner. I brought Ped up. The belay was pretty good, 3 decent nuts in pretty solid feeling rock but it's hard to trust. The ledge has big blocks on it and overhung the south face. I really felt that the whole thing could collapse at any moment. I crawled along the ledge and after one tentative go got around the corner. Only now could I see ahead and it looked hard, nearly vertical on small holds for around 10m to where the arete went horizontal again, I was standing at the foot of the steep section we had seen in profile. I pretty instantly knew I wasn't going up there. I placed a shitty nut but if I fell it was going to be on the belay, the rock didn't look that bad but I couldn't trust it. I went back had a rest and then went back out it didn't feel any better so I went back to the ledge and told Ped I was done. He went around for a look and wasn't impressed either.
It was an easy decision to retreat, I wasn't torn. It was too much for me. I was disappointed and I knew that I would question the decision in the future. We sat on the ledge and enjoyed the views for a while, it's really is a spectacular spot.
Getting back down was fine but there is plenty for potential for hassle. Our ropes pulled fine as much by luck as design and we didn't kick any loose blocks on each other. I was expecting to shit it on the ab but it was grand maybe I just glad to be going home.
Launching the boat was tricky I ended up just jumping in. And the slog up the slope was savage, really gruelling. I hadn't eaten enough all day and was starting to feel it. Ped very kindly gave me some of his water. Once at the top of the gully we strolled back to the car, pretty fucked tired. We got back at 7, it would of been dark at 9 so we would of ended up walking out in the dark if we had gone on. (We started lateish, maybe 11).
We meet Iain at the carpark and his commiserated with us and was very gracious.
Yesterday I was looking for photos on the web and stumbled across one of Iain's that he shot looking down the third pitch and I realised that the rope ran up the ledges to the right of the arete rather than going around the corner like we attempted. I emailed Iain and sure enough we should of kept to the stepped ledge system to the right of the arete for another while before traversing around onto the south face. So we were off route.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZlUCV-ZzMQ/UD-0uiZshmI/AAAAAAAABKA/h5yOhspuL3c/s400/cnoc-topo-web.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_ZlUCV-ZzMQ/UD-0uiZshmI/AAAAAAAABKA/h5yOhspuL3c/s1600/cnoc-topo-web.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Updated topo[/td][/tr]
[/table]
On the descent I had looked up and noticed the ledge system and thought that it looked easy but I didn't think much of it at the time. I guess I had my blinkers on as I made a beeline for the ridge and the least I should of done was consider my options before retreating but I suppose I wasn't thinking very straight. In my defence the route description (http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/guidebook/route_details.php?route_no=1530) is pretty vague " Pitch 2, 22m. Scramble up the slab to the base of the huge knife edge arete. Pitch 3, 35m. Climb the arete to a peg and block belay on the ledge at it's top."
Either way it was a great adventure but I would really would of liked to get to the top. Knowing now that the correct route mightn't be as bad I think I would like to go back.
There are a few more photos on flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/18839278@N00/sets/72157631138669084/).
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-9042140821155005234?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/cGNxTfCj2LQ)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Sunday Time sea stack article (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Y64VFIVovJk/sunday-time-sea-stack-article.html)
2 September 2012, 9:36 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SeytRX-sPxo/UEPROkdKS9I/AAAAAAAABKo/5k9_6E6doXg/s640/sundayTime-seastacks.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SeytRX-sPxo/UEPROkdKS9I/AAAAAAAABKo/5k9_6E6doXg/s1600/sundayTime-seastacks.JPG)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-147268386105752585?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Y64VFIVovJk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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So all the kit you need is a hiking boot, a dry bag, a kayak, a buoyancy aid and a canoe?
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and a copy of the newspaper to navigate...
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Glendo - real climbing (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/sDRny9V0nG8/glendo-real-climbing.html)
3 September 2012, 5:08 pm
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F7lcQkxt3CA/UETgaT-uCyI/AAAAAAAABLI/vxpanC41uH8/s640/IMG_4842+-+web.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F7lcQkxt3CA/UETgaT-uCyI/AAAAAAAABLI/vxpanC41uH8/s1600/IMG_4842+-+web.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Anyone know what route this is? Fanfare maybe.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Climbed on the main crag in Glendo for the first time on Saturday. I had only done a few single pitches on Acorn Buttress prior. Lovely breezy day, warm even in our shirt sleeves. Clancy and I did three routes, all multi starred classics.
Quartz Gully HS
Cracks on the Garden of Eden VS
Deirdre VS
We started QG a little low and I led the first two pitches, Clancy took the last. Crux is cool, lovely exposure, easy for 4b I feel. Plenty of stuck gear as well, like a sport route.
Someone had done a dump below the start of Cracks, Clancy got the first pitch and laybacked up the corner. I used holds on the right which felt a lot easier. I didn't bother going left to the hand crack at the start of p2 went straight up past the loose flake. Top section is brilliant steep, good handholds all the way but lacking feet in places, I got pumped and had to move out left for a shakeout which was weak, should of just pushed on but I don't see why I would have any stamina.
Clancy led the hard pitch of Deirdre, I was still pumped and found it tricky seconding. I led the top pitch, very easy, didn't place any gear due to lack to massive cams.
I'm not sure why a lot of the routes are divided into so many pitches, I understand why this was done back in the day but it doesn't make any sense to describe them thus now. All three routes we did could of been done in a single pitch with a 60m rope if one was very careful about extending runners.
There was loads of people out bouldering and it was funny to walk down from the crag and slag them. I've been on the receiving end many a time. It was great to climb on the crag, the rock is incredible and it's such a great setting.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6330367757247507644?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/sDRny9V0nG8)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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It's a great spot, had a top day there.
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Awesome Walls Dublin open tomorrow (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/R3-y1wKT2So/awesome-walls-dublin-open-tomorrow.html)
28 September 2012, 5:32 pm
Had a sneak preview of Awesome Walls in Finglas today. It was a hive of activity as they had only 24 hours to go to their opening. The wall is massive another level compared to any other wall in this country. The bouldering is on two levels and looks great, I'm itching to get stuck in. The very steep prow lead wall looks great and I will definitely be bringing my harness next time. There is tonnes of space there will be a shop a cafe, a kids room/yoga studio and a board room. Check it out.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr4A8xdgktY/UGXdZFsOSuI/AAAAAAAABNY/8XEiQjDGb0s/s640/IMG_4864.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hr4A8xdgktY/UGXdZFsOSuI/AAAAAAAABNY/8XEiQjDGb0s/s1600/IMG_4864.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Upper Mezz[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TPBhtSmcgbg/UGXehhZXK6I/AAAAAAAABOY/ChBSfpreP50/s640/IMG_4874.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TPBhtSmcgbg/UGXehhZXK6I/AAAAAAAABOY/ChBSfpreP50/s1600/IMG_4874.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The LHS of the top rope walls[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--2sJbEu1iCI/UGXei2KM30I/AAAAAAAABOg/rIDRWj_AC38/s640/IMG_4876.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--2sJbEu1iCI/UGXei2KM30I/AAAAAAAABOg/rIDRWj_AC38/s1600/IMG_4876.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The lead wall[/td][/tr]
[/table] [tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uqI2Gal-xLY/UGXdcp82ngI/AAAAAAAABNs/oiDTO-DBPHM/s640/IMG_4885.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uqI2Gal-xLY/UGXdcp82ngI/AAAAAAAABNs/oiDTO-DBPHM/s1600/IMG_4885.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The Arch[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wuAUiYObdZk/UGXddcrmAGI/AAAAAAAABN4/L9O2o2HUd5g/s640/IMG_4886.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wuAUiYObdZk/UGXddcrmAGI/AAAAAAAABN4/L9O2o2HUd5g/s1600/IMG_4886.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Steeeeep[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eenDnmmUzUA/UGXdeUgOIpI/AAAAAAAABN8/Cctrzb2wB-w/s640/IMG_4898.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eenDnmmUzUA/UGXdeUgOIpI/AAAAAAAABN8/Cctrzb2wB-w/s1600/IMG_4898.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Ricky Warming up[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m5AhEQnJSmw/UGXdfe4omcI/AAAAAAAABOE/LP3SeWWI3ZY/s640/IMG_5002.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m5AhEQnJSmw/UGXdfe4omcI/AAAAAAAABOE/LP3SeWWI3ZY/s1600/IMG_5002.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Michael and Ricky[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPGMgziVyUo/UGXdgDi7CcI/AAAAAAAABOM/ptIJyZKAL5Y/s640/IMG_5020.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPGMgziVyUo/UGXdgDi7CcI/AAAAAAAABOM/ptIJyZKAL5Y/s1600/IMG_5020.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Michael loves having his photo taken[/td][/tr]
[/table]
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-5004006215950924912?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/R3-y1wKT2So)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Fantastic.
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Awesome Walls article in Sunday Times (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Km3IXgt6R9o/awesome-walls-article-in-sunday-times.html)
6 November 2012, 10:26 am
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/132224_380859288651409_547736833_o.jpg) (http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/132224_380859288651409_547736833_o.jpg)
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-8466923370734349446?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Km3IXgt6R9o)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Lough Dan (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/E-15qZOtsJI/lough-dan.html)
18 November 2012, 8:59 pm
Got out to Lough Dan today, I was keen to comb through the boulder on the right hand side of the crag. Walked in on frozen ground, hopped across the river and had a good search through the scree. Didn't find anything very interesting. It's one of those places that looks like it should offer quite a lot but doesn't. I may have missed some stuff but I don't think there is a dozen three star lines lurking.
| (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nKKjEh2Xx8/UKlKnf9MwII/AAAAAAAABPE/bxy0E7Juik4/s640/IMG_6799.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nKKjEh2Xx8/UKlKnf9MwII/AAAAAAAABPE/bxy0E7Juik4/s1600/IMG_6799.JPG) |
| Line goes up the right side |
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AhC4-w02hDc/UKlKpB2te5I/AAAAAAAABPM/r3lcVT7Y9DE/s640/IMG_6801.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AhC4-w02hDc/UKlKpB2te5I/AAAAAAAABPM/r3lcVT7Y9DE/s1600/IMG_6801.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Nice crimp just below the top[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Found one nice looking hard project. Steep, about 35 degrees, landing isn't great but would be easily sorted. Maybe 3 very crimpy moves.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i1eWuNj2U_o/UKlKqkOcWSI/AAAAAAAABPQ/Wme1aAYA23c/s640/IMG_6803.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i1eWuNj2U_o/UKlKqkOcWSI/AAAAAAAABPQ/Wme1aAYA23c/s1600/IMG_6803.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]The big roof[/td][/tr]
[/table] There is a big jutting roof that is very visible on the skyline when you are on the boulder left of the crag. It's probably more a route with a very sloping landing than a boulder but there seems to be a few holds on it.
| (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zhsc_4MlT5M/UKlKr84QkgI/AAAAAAAABPY/x9wKwW3BB4c/s400/IMG_6804.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zhsc_4MlT5M/UKlKr84QkgI/AAAAAAAABPY/x9wKwW3BB4c/s1600/IMG_6804.JPG) |
| Downhill side |
Found one other boulder with two hard potential lines. Nothing special, just above the last big boulders on the right hands side.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9friDYeN3eg/UKlKsy9Dl3I/AAAAAAAABPg/ihYJ99CbQFU/s320/IMG_6805.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9friDYeN3eg/UKlKsy9Dl3I/AAAAAAAABPg/ihYJ99CbQFU/s1600/IMG_6805.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Lake side[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b7I3Q8Zru64/UKlKuMMkJMI/AAAAAAAABPs/4liRt9cQnjI/s640/IMG_7218.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b7I3Q8Zru64/UKlKuMMkJMI/AAAAAAAABPs/4liRt9cQnjI/s1600/IMG_7218.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Beef to the Heel[/td][/tr]
[/table] Had a few goes on the lowball traverse Beef to the Heel, it's quite good and very beefy.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9e3T12VvlC4/UKlKvetkBQI/AAAAAAAABP0/BD2obz13cy4/s640/IMG_7456.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9e3T12VvlC4/UKlKvetkBQI/AAAAAAAABP0/BD2obz13cy4/s1600/IMG_7456.JPG)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Shadow[/td][/tr]
[/table] Last time I was in LD on the Sunday of the bouldering meet I found Shadow quite easy, this time I had to really fight to get up it. A great problem, best in Lough Dan and a total classic, worth the visit.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6587530101038046166?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/E-15qZOtsJI)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Barnbawn (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/MG_p8gFOcxE/barnbawn.html)
11 December 2012, 5:19 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RLelFyMW3xI/UMdpoF-xm9I/AAAAAAAABRo/b4ZRdcuU-rE/s640/IMG_8385+-+Copy.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RLelFyMW3xI/UMdpoF-xm9I/AAAAAAAABRo/b4ZRdcuU-rE/s1600/IMG_8385+-+Copy.JPG) Got a tip off at the weekend about some boulders in the forest near the crag of Barnbawn near Glenealy, Wicklow. So went along today more in hope than expectation. There were some boulders near the crag but no bouldering. The rock is very similar to the Scalp, more like quartzite than granite. The forest is a really nice spot and the crag is ok, bit short and scrappy, probably wouldn't go back. Did a few solos since I was there.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBQVRtNLBH8/UMdppowlOUI/AAAAAAAABRs/t1CjAlKb-Ts/s640/IMG_8389+-+Copy.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBQVRtNLBH8/UMdppowlOUI/AAAAAAAABRs/t1CjAlKb-Ts/s1600/IMG_8389+-+Copy.JPG)
Spotted this on the walk out. About 10 foot high steep but pretty much choss shite. You would have to be desperate.
There are other crags and outcrops around this area but I don't think they will be worthwhile. The rock isn't suited to bouldering. Did see one small - 8foot - proper mountain granite erratic so there may well be more but life is too short. There are many more likely spots out there.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-6707511571475509618?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/MG_p8gFOcxE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bangor Trail article (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/mpdTSX0PyPM/bangor-trail-article.html)
17 December 2012, 10:49 am
I wrote an article about the Bangor Trail which was in the Sunday Times yesterday.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Q8JnK-kmtQ/UM74PzOTU6I/AAAAAAAABSQ/a08FHJK_oZw/s400/IMG_8471-web.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Q8JnK-kmtQ/UM74PzOTU6I/AAAAAAAABSQ/a08FHJK_oZw/s1600/IMG_8471-web.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAr8Io0yYbc/UM74RR9KWwI/AAAAAAAABSY/6pNN0ntzJl4/s400/IMG_8474-web.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAr8Io0yYbc/UM74RR9KWwI/AAAAAAAABSY/6pNN0ntzJl4/s1600/IMG_8474-web.jpg)
Unfortunantly an error was introduced in the sub-editing process which changed 16,000 hectares to 40 acres. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/4753273758352628546-4557812544551418393?l=boulderingireland.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/mpdTSX0PyPM)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Review of Fairhead Bouldering Guide (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/R3oIsO50ixE/review-of-fairhead-bouldering-guide.html)
27 December 2012, 10:04 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z-LfY2tFmWA/UNzEsZ7BkwI/AAAAAAAABT8/ZXlD-G2xbOI/s640/cover.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z-LfY2tFmWA/UNzEsZ7BkwI/AAAAAAAABT8/ZXlD-G2xbOI/s1600/cover.jpg)
Husband and wife team, Rob and Veronica Hunter, have gone and done what most climbers only day dream about. In August they quit their jobs, spending the last four months, climbing by day and writing and researching a bouldering guide in the evenings. Living the dream you might say.
The fruit of their labours has just emerged blinking into the daylight, a beautiful and very elegant Fair Head bouldering guidebook. For those who don't know, Fair Head is on the North East tip of the island of Ireland, in County Antrim not far from the Giant's Causeway, a short journey across the Irish Sea from Scotland.
Fair Head consist of over three miles of predominantly north facing dolerite cliffs up to 100m tall. For decades Irish climbers have been climbing trad routes up the corners and cracks of this massive crag, and word is slowly spreading, with some going so far as to call it the best crag in Britain and Ireland. Over 350 routes have been climbed on the cliff but between the foot of the crag and the water's edge lies a carpet of massive boulders stretching from one end of the crag to the other.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I-qQbczAs1k/UNzCvUCdP0I/AAAAAAAABS8/DVVCTErtzZg/s640/fh1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I-qQbczAs1k/UNzCvUCdP0I/AAAAAAAABS8/DVVCTErtzZg/s1600/fh1.jpg)
It's this expanse of grey dolerite boulders that captivated Rob and Veronica. Rob has been bouldering in Fair Head for over 15 years and knows the boulders better than anyone. When I was researching my Irish bouldering guidebook it was Rob who guided me through the boulders, pointing out problems, giving names and grades. Veronica is a more recent convert but no less devout.
I never thought that any bouldering area in Ireland could merit its own guidebook but Rob and Veronica have set me straight and done a great job.
As with any book, the first thing to strike you is the cover. In this case rather than a pseudo landscape shot or hardcore action photo it's a macro study of a piece of beautifully lichened dolerite. Some cover shots are designed to encourage the casual browser to buy, but that's the beauty of self publishing in such a specialist field. If someone wants the guide, they want the guide, and this gives great freedom to the guidebook writer.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6oo9PWqj_Rw/UNzCvzAJCXI/AAAAAAAABTE/b21exBwTN2Y/s640/fh2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6oo9PWqj_Rw/UNzCvzAJCXI/AAAAAAAABTE/b21exBwTN2Y/s1600/fh2.jpg)
The guide contains details of over 440 problems. To put this in context, the Peak District Bouldering guidebook describes 370 problems in Burbage Valley. Even after the last few months of gap filling by the authors there are still 80 unclimbed problems in the guide (these are included in the total problem count). There are, however, whole areas also awaiting development, all you need to do is put in the effort probing deeper in the scree.
The boulders in Fair Head were all, at one point, part of the cliffs above. As such they lie in a massive jumble giving problems of all angles. The rock is rough but not abrasive and problems tend to be mostly on edges with a lot of slopers as well. It's hard to generalise the climbing style but the typical problem at the Head is steep, crimpy and powerful. This is probably more a function of the preferences of the first ascentist than the rock itself. I think it's only right to note that some of the landings at the Head can be bad, most problems require a minimum of two pads and some a whole lot more.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xaI31uKGp1M/UNzCxEdxkbI/AAAAAAAABTQ/CxBhUUtvd8s/s640/fh3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xaI31uKGp1M/UNzCxEdxkbI/AAAAAAAABTQ/CxBhUUtvd8s/s1600/fh3.jpg)
Even thought there is a photo topo for every problem the content still has plenty of space to breath among the 206 pages. The scree in a three dimensional maze with few landmarks and walking (scrambling really) through it, especially when carrying a pad, is hard work and it's inevitable that there will be some wandering around, feeling lost. The proliferation of photos will help visitors orientate themselves, but the reality is that it takes a few visits before you moving directly and confidently from problem to problem.
The book's design is modern and unobtrusive. I can't help but notice some parallels in style between this guide and my book but this is inevitable considering the authors and I shared a muse in the form of the clean, crisp minimalism of the 7+8s Font guide.
There are a huge number of photos, action and landscape, giving the book a relaxed coffee table feel. Undoubtedly the page count could have been reduced if some of the photos were omitted, I counted over thirty double page spreads, but the book is still a reasonable size and I think the photos add value.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eRnaRVySTek/UNzCyxKOz-I/AAAAAAAABTc/XFHI5IIJKsU/s640/fh5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eRnaRVySTek/UNzCyxKOz-I/AAAAAAAABTc/XFHI5IIJKsU/s1600/fh5.jpg)
As well as covering the main areas at Murlough Bay and The Ballycastle end, the guide includes details of two smaller areas, The Miner's House and Promontory, both of which have better landings and lower grades than the main areas so they are ideal for climbers still getting to grips with bouldering.
There are probably two groups of visitors who will be interested in this guides. Climbers who come to the Head to climb routes but come up against some changeable weather or just fancy a bit of bouldering and visiting wads who want to check out a new area with hard, modern style problems and potential for first ascents.
For the last decade or so the popularity of bouldering at Fair Head was limited by the lack of information. This guide should both inspire and inform, opening Fair Head bouldering to a much to a wider audience.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/R3oIsO50ixE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldercise...my bollox (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/ZXb7xkRsR3c/bouldercisemy-bollox.html)
4 January 2013, 3:19 pm
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/582518_404816369589034_901360515_n.jpg) (http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/582518_404816369589034_901360515_n.jpg) Cardio..bouldering, I don't think so.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/ZXb7xkRsR3c)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Where have all the climbers gone? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/L9Xpogbc43o/where-have-all-climbers-gone.html)
13 January 2013, 10:12 pm
This is to a certain extent a follow up to my post about the climbing scene (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.ie/2012/03/irish-climbing-scene.html), that post generated some interesting discussion and I hope this one will too.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pgIdQVMDVrc/UPMu6UJkvbI/AAAAAAAABUc/IG34XwrWuDU/s640/IBL.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pgIdQVMDVrc/UPMu6UJkvbI/AAAAAAAABUc/IG34XwrWuDU/s1600/IBL.png) Above is a chart I did up of IBL attendances over the last four years. From October '09 up to yesterday. I couldn't find the results for a few so they are missing. The point is that there is certainly no uptick in attendances at IBLs. The IBL is supposed to be the people's competition. Informal and social.
So where is the bounce caused by the opening of the two new walls in Dublin? I don't think it really has materialised? Has there been an increase in the numbers going bouldering? I haven't seen it but that doesn't mean anything as I'm rarely in Glendo at weekends? Can anyone comment?
The bouldering forum on theshortspan is very quiet, the climbing.ie forum is mostly all lost+found and stuff for sale.
There is a lot of talk about climbing getting into the Olympics and how great this will be. Debatable I would think. In reality, from what I have read, climbing doesn't have a chance in hell of getting in. I have heard a lot of talk - from climbers - assuming it's a certainty. At best it's a 1 in 7 shot but in reality the odds are longer than that.
I don't see a lot of new routes been done. I was in the quarry a bit over the summer and it never seemed that busy.
Is Irish climbing in hibernation? Does anyone care? Do I have a point? No. (http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/L9Xpogbc43o)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Working the proj (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/s6grd5IQv_s/working-proj.html)
14 January 2013, 10:52 am
I got out yesterday and put some work in on my project. The day was very damp, drizzling at times but fortunately the project stayed bone thanks to its steepness. I can't imagine there was much bouldering done in Glendo by the IBLers.
Maybe some progress on the first move, which is the crux, but the other moves felt harder than I remembered. Need to do more fingerboarding and work on the core. It's hard and it's good and I'm optimistic that I will get there, then I can retire from high level bouldering.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/s6grd5IQv_s)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Best ever (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/IKrU287ifpY/i-know-this-isnt-climbing.html)
14 January 2013, 4:40 pm
I know this isn't climbing.
It's a big deal to say best ever. It's a summary of everything that happened so far, it's calling the top. Implicit is that it means 'best so far', but if like Sergey Bubka (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sergey_Bubka#World_record_progression_by_Bubka), the Ukrainian pole vaulter, you are constantly probing the limits of your sport or of hyperbole, you will loose credibility if 'best ever' starts to sound a lot like 'most recent'.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/IKrU287ifpY)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Glossary of bouldering book: comments welcome (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/TI9ufScxJEw/glossary-of-bouldering-book-comments.html)
14 January 2013, 9:20 pm
I have just finished writing a ten page glossary for my bouldering book, it would be very helpful if you had a look through it and pointed out any mistakes or omissions.
Click here (http://www.theshortspan.com/startBouldering/glossary.swf) to see a full size flash version.
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/TI9ufScxJEw)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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The Ice Caves (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/2noJMZae6vk/the-ice-caves.html)
21 January 2013, 5:57 pm
Chris Schulte in Independence Pass (http://vimeo.com/57155598) from Five Ten (http://vimeo.com/fiveten) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Great, great looking problems and rock, maybe perfect rock.
Chris seems pretty cool and unlike most top end boulderers he looks like he could crack some skulls, not that he would. I think if I found and climber a problem like Fin Depedance I think I would give up. Perfect movement.
I'm sure there must a place like this in Ireland - minus the ice. The granite in Dunaff in Inishowen is similar, wave smoothed and very, very clean.
EDIT found another vid.
Independence Pass - Ice Caves (http://vimeo.com/43867547) from Jon Glassberg (http://vimeo.com/jonglassberg) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/2noJMZae6vk)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Video - Daniel Woods - The Grey 8B+ (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/cQdrlG7S2Lo/video-daniel-woods-grey-8b.html)
24 January 2013, 10:11 am
Very cool move at 3:12(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/cQdrlG7S2Lo)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Electonic climbing guides (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/Ateg7JBWyac/electonic-climbing-guides.html)
8 May 2013, 7:03 pm
(http://a1036.phobos.apple.com/us/r1000/087/Purple/v4/c8/22/ff/c822fffc-e6f8-aa26-58eb-64c84aa7d048/mzl.glewbmvx.320x480-75.jpg) (http://a1036.phobos.apple.com/us/r1000/087/Purple/v4/c8/22/ff/c822fffc-e6f8-aa26-58eb-64c84aa7d048/mzl.glewbmvx.320x480-75.jpg)Yesterday Mountaineering Ireland released (http://www.mountaineering.ie/aboutus/news/2013/default.aspx?iid=258) their Donegal Rock Climbing App. This is the first such guide to Ireland, and represents a big step for a large organisation like MI.
The original plan was to release a print guide, but that was shelved relatively recently. At this point the guide was already years late. But this isn't unusual for an MI guide (and it's probably fair to say any volunteer produced guidebook).
I spent a good bit of time thinking about the pros and cons of electronic guides when I was deciding what to do once the print copies of Bouldering Ireland ran out. In the end I settled for a downloadable PDF as (1) it was easy for me to generate from my existing InDesign files (2) it can be printed and viewed on any electronic device. A possible downside is that it can be easily shared, but I felt the risk/consequence of this were low, as climbers are a decent lot and the cost price was low.
So some pros and cons of the Donegal Rock Climbing App format:
Pros
- Cheap to produce Printing books can get expensive, having said that MI tend to do reasonably large runs so their unit cost should be pretty low (especially relative to the retail price of their guide - €25). Either way they have to stump up thousands in cash upfront and the less popular books may take a decade to sell out (if they ever do). So producing an electronic guide means they don't have large upfront costs, well maybe they do, I don't know many people who would code an App like this for free, but lets assume even if they did pay a developer, it's still a lot cheaper than printing.
- Cheap to buy The App costs €7 which is a lot less than the €25 the previous edition of the Donegal guide cost. This isn't, however, a like for like comparison as the App is contains 1000 selected routes, while the guide was definitive (I don't know off hand how many routes it contained). Also Iain Miller (www.uniqueascent.ie (http://www.uniqueascent.ie/)), the editor of the App, has made available PDFs of the definitive guides for free on his website (surely they should be on the MI site? Who owns them?). This begs the question why wasn't the App made available for free, or a nominal cost?
- Can be easily updated An App can be quickly and easily updated to correct mistakes or add new routes.
- Doesn't block the release of a paper guide in future As there isn't a huge pile of books sitting in MI offices, the option is open in future to release a paper guide.
- An electronic guide can do a lot of things a paper one can't Maybe this is the big reason. A smartphone knows where you are, it can display charts, you can search it, there is effectively infinite space for photos, you could intergrate voting or feedback etc.
Cons
- Most people won't be able to use it I looked up some smartphone stats for Ireland (check out the very useful www.thinkwithgoogle.com/mobileplanet (http://www.thinkwithgoogle.com/mobileplanet/en/)). In 2012 43% of the population had a smartphone. 39% of those run iOS, on which the App works (there are plans for Android version in the future). So just over 16% of climbers (assuming their smartphone habits are the same as the general population which could go either way I suppose) will be able to use this guide.
- Smartphones aren't reliable They aren't waterproof, and it would hurt to drop one in the sea. My battery doesn't last much longer than a day, so if I was camping without a means to charge it I could be stuck after a day or two.
- No legacy This is an alternative take of the pro "Can be easily updated". Paper guides exist long after they are made redunant by a new edition, while electronic guide are simply overwritten, the old version ceasing to exist. This means we lose the guide as a historical document, a representation of a particular place at a particular time. This is a pity I think. And while the wait between paper guides is often long, it caused a build up of excitement and a new wave of development and interest in an area often follows in the wake of a new guidebook.
My take is that I would of like to see a different approach. A print select guide, with plenty of great photos and interesting asides, with downloadable PDFs (and/or print on demand books) of the more esoteric areas.
What do people think?
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/Ateg7JBWyac)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Cover for new book (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/x_aMFacDKvQ/cover-for-new-book.html)
8 May 2013, 8:09 pm
I'm working on the cover of my new book about bouldering. Would be great if people voted for the cover they think is best, would be great if they left their reasons as well. Let me know (use the "Add new idea" button) if you like some aspects of one and some of another. Also let me know if you dislike them all or have any other suggestions....
powered by tricider (http://tricider.com/)
See large version of each cover below. 1(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hS7xOul-YJo/UYqvqr7ttSI/AAAAAAAABVg/9jvKS_xZ3ck/s640/cover.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hS7xOul-YJo/UYqvqr7ttSI/AAAAAAAABVg/9jvKS_xZ3ck/s1600/cover.jpg) 2(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRBa_MbDVKE/UYqvs3U-ZkI/AAAAAAAABVo/_rO4zOpZMoY/s640/cover2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRBa_MbDVKE/UYqvs3U-ZkI/AAAAAAAABVo/_rO4zOpZMoY/s1600/cover2.jpg) 3(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-htNwxDHHDvI/UYqvvnM91pI/AAAAAAAABVw/Lss0JeYFG28/s640/cover3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-htNwxDHHDvI/UYqvvnM91pI/AAAAAAAABVw/Lss0JeYFG28/s1600/cover3.jpg) 4(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pClQaov67Ro/UYqvyt52BdI/AAAAAAAABV4/0sHNbdhiGO8/s640/cover4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pClQaov67Ro/UYqvyt52BdI/AAAAAAAABV4/0sHNbdhiGO8/s1600/cover4.jpg) 5(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6GBpWtbxxzI/UYqv0xI_K7I/AAAAAAAABWE/cH2cBkVbFNY/s640/cover5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6GBpWtbxxzI/UYqv0xI_K7I/AAAAAAAABWE/cH2cBkVbFNY/s1600/cover5.jpg)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/x_aMFacDKvQ)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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3
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4!
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Actually looking again, i think a mix of 3 and 4. I think there should be a pic of someone climbing indoors on the cover, as the book covers indoor training as well, but i like the black background more.
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4
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I agree with Chris actually, 3 with a black background.
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Thanks for the feedback lads.
Done a few more to reflect the comments I have already got.
New 1 (http://www.theshortspan.com/startBouldering/covers/cover-allblack.jpg)
New 2 (http://www.theshortspan.com/startBouldering/covers/cover-allblack2.jpg)
New 3(http://www.theshortspan.com/startBouldering/covers/cover-allblack3.jpg)
New 4 (http://www.theshortspan.com/startBouldering/covers/cover-allblack4.jpg)
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New 3 I reckon.
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I like new 2. Multiple images on front, single on the back.
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Cover for new book: 2 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/0b_IWsC7tsM/cover-for-new-book-2.html)
14 May 2013, 8:14 pm
Thanks everyone for the feedback, it's much appreciated. There seems to be strong support for the black background with the simplest layout being preffered. Based on the comments I have made two different front and back covers, a single shot and a multiple one. I shall add them to another post now. I have added a poll on the Irish Climber's facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/202508603146828/)to see if I can get a wider range of opinions...
Feedback welcome...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SIwHYiSqC14/UZKZwihmpNI/AAAAAAAABW4/w89laEbA_oM/s640/cover.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SIwHYiSqC14/UZKZwihmpNI/AAAAAAAABW4/w89laEbA_oM/s1600/cover.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3om3ncx4ivM/UZKZxrLYg8I/AAAAAAAABXE/vLqxE8EscMs/s640/cover2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3om3ncx4ivM/UZKZxrLYg8I/AAAAAAAABXE/vLqxE8EscMs/s1600/cover2.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wzMUlYyth4o/UZKZxGiQQEI/AAAAAAAABW8/SrBTCBoUuAs/s640/cover3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wzMUlYyth4o/UZKZxGiQQEI/AAAAAAAABW8/SrBTCBoUuAs/s1600/cover3.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y21Gl8WdA-I/UZKZyYJ8miI/AAAAAAAABXM/rwWBscha1ms/s640/cover4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Y21Gl8WdA-I/UZKZyYJ8miI/AAAAAAAABXM/rwWBscha1ms/s1600/cover4.jpg)
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/0b_IWsC7tsM)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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4. or 2. Probably 4.
This is feeling like a trip to the opticians; can you see better with lens 1 or 2?
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I think I'm swaying towards 4 too now.
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I'd go for 2. But all depends on the quality of the front shot.
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Do you think the shot I have used for the front cover isn't suitable Jack?
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Na its perfect. Really showcases Ireland's perfect weather.
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Pine Tree Buttress (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/QG0XQNBTCLI/pine-tree-buttress.html)
5 June 2013, 11:28 am
[tr][td](http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5329/8941361341_cf9fb19264_h.jpg) (http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5329/8941361341_cf9fb19264_h.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Top of the second pitch.[/td][/tr]
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Haven't blogged for a while. Have been mostly climbing in the Quarry recently, either soloing about or bouldering. Years ago I have a few sessions on a nice little wall and I decided to get back on it, first I had a to beat a path to it, but I have had about 8 sessions on it now and am making progress, it's plumb vertical on tiny edges and pinches, it really the direct start to a route and I might need a rope for the upper section if I ever get there.
A very hungover Ped and I went and did Pine Tree Buttress on Luggala today. We parked at Piergates - first car parked there - and walked in along the road and then up the river. It's under an hour to the foot of the crag, and en route I found this really great 45 degree wall which has potential for three very nice, indoor style problems.
I had studied the old guide - I don't own the new one - and the photos from the new guide which can be found here. (http://irishmountaineeringclub.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=558) The old guide is appalling, it would be a miracle to correctly follow a route using it. The new topos are ok.
First pitch went grand, I kept going past the belay around the corner hoping to run a few pitches together. But once I got into the V groove the rope kept jamming so I had to belay. A short pitch up a wide crack lead up to the hollly tree below the steep wall. There is an interesting move off the belay stepping right, it took a few goes to figure out, I couldn't find an elegant solution so just got a high foot and pulled. Once over onto the slab I couldn't see any hint of a belay so pressed on up the slab. Clipped a stuck nut and made my way up the slab, it's nice, exposed and there are good holds. This is the best pitch. Got to the grassy ledge, belayed and brought Ped up. Turned out I belayed too far left but it was academic. Last pitch led to the tree, it was ok, I followed my nose and I think I kept to the intended line.
[tr][td](http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3746/8941872122_9cda408fec_h.jpg) (http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3746/8941872122_9cda408fec_h.jpg)[/td][/tr] [tr][td]Top of last pitch (our fourth) of Pine Tree Buttress.[/td][/tr]
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Midway I had to place some gear so that Ped could take me off so that he could shit.
The midway ledge is cool, sat around there is the sun for a while, I had planned to do a route called Temptation, but backed off it as it was dirty and I couldn't really see the line. Ended up scrambling up some Diff, walked over the top of Fancy and down the ridge to the car.
PTB wasn't as good as I was expecting for a three star route. The long pitch up the slab was pretty good. The belays are nice eyries with good views but the rest of the climbing was a little indistinct. So was underwhelmed. Would of loved to do one of the classic on the Main Face but need a little more leading under my belt. Next time.
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/QG0XQNBTCLI)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering book title (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/-KffwgFcYhE/bouldering-book-title.html)
3 July 2013, 11:55 am
Have been doing a decent bit of climbing but haven't blogged about it as I have been occuppied with finishing my bouldering book. It's pretty much done bar the cover and deciding on a title.
I have been trying to think of a good title for over a year now and I had hoped one would just fall out of the sky but it hasn't happened.
So I would like some help settling on one.
First some background on the book. It's bouldering how-to/instructional manual aimed at beginner and intermediate climbers. It's starts pretty basic and is focussed on movement and strategy rather than training. There are lots of great photo so it has a coffee table flavor - judge for yourself - see the photos below.
I think it's pretty comprehensive, it's not just a beginners book, so I don't want a title like "Bouldering for Beginners" or "Start Bouldering" (this was my working title for a while) as they suggest that experienced boulderers won't find anything to use to them.
I would like 'bouldering' in the title. I think this is important for search rankings and so on.
There are two options - just plain old bouldering with a subtitleor something bouldering or bouldering something.
I have tried to write down all the options. A lot of which are pretty chessy and generic. I'm open to left of field suggestions (for example I really like the title of "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills").
The Bouldering Handbook The Bouldering Manual The Complete Guide to Bouldering Complete Bouldering Essential Bouldering Learn Bouldering Go Bouldering Start Bouldering Bouldering Basics Bouldering Explained Bouldering Uncovered Bouldering Essentials Bouldering for Beginners Bouldering for Everyone Bouldering: A guide for beginners and intermediates Bouldering: How to
Already taken
Better Bouldering Bouldering: Movement, Tactics and Problem Solving Anyone have any opinions on any of the above titles?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GYk6sPRhAFs/UdQP1hA_PcI/AAAAAAAABX8/FG4TS2xP2ZY/s640/temp.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GYk6sPRhAFs/UdQP1hA_PcI/AAAAAAAABX8/FG4TS2xP2ZY/s1179/temp.jpg)(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8EKZ9JNiX4Q/UdQP2DAitzI/AAAAAAAABYM/pT-CZ5NBJL8/s640/temp25.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8EKZ9JNiX4Q/UdQP2DAitzI/AAAAAAAABYM/pT-CZ5NBJL8/s1179/temp25.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vqwpG53hAWE/UdQP3gcb5SI/AAAAAAAABYY/7ALdiZzbL30/s640/temp4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vqwpG53hAWE/UdQP3gcb5SI/AAAAAAAABYY/7ALdiZzbL30/s1179/temp4.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cesiTbpZknk/UdQP3aELIkI/AAAAAAAABYU/zRGWpzb31JU/s640/temp8.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cesiTbpZknk/UdQP3aELIkI/AAAAAAAABYU/zRGWpzb31JU/s1179/temp8.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIzyEaZ-fT0/UdQPx87K4QI/AAAAAAAABXk/UUMDTd1X-fI/s640/temp11.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aIzyEaZ-fT0/UdQPx87K4QI/AAAAAAAABXk/UUMDTd1X-fI/s1179/temp11.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJ3qNkr0pUI/UdQPzBBsPnI/AAAAAAAABXs/Sa-BcUc2hy4/s640/temp15.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJ3qNkr0pUI/UdQPzBBsPnI/AAAAAAAABXs/Sa-BcUc2hy4/s1179/temp15.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-knxW8Bc53sI/UdQP0e2cxMI/AAAAAAAABX0/jUZj9jw27Vs/s640/temp18.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-knxW8Bc53sI/UdQP0e2cxMI/AAAAAAAABX0/jUZj9jw27Vs/s1179/temp18.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0-6AVoK1J_A/UdQP1jfb-qI/AAAAAAAABYA/RhJNxMibWDQ/s640/temp22.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0-6AVoK1J_A/UdQP1jfb-qI/AAAAAAAABYA/RhJNxMibWDQ/s1179/temp22.jpg)
(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/-KffwgFcYhE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Muskrat Ramble (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/u_i0GI2x1N0/muskrat-ramble.html)
8 July 2013, 8:02 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OgMstLoNm1k/UdpxlwEgzkI/AAAAAAAABYs/XTR4u8IOwbo/s640/muskratRamble.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OgMstLoNm1k/UdpxlwEgzkI/AAAAAAAABYs/XTR4u8IOwbo/s1600/muskratRamble.jpg)
Went to back to Luggala with Andy on Saturday, started early so we were leaving as the day was really starting to heat up. Andy wanted an adventure and decided on Muskrat Ramble, the three star, three pitch HVS.
As we geared up a few midge lurked and I was worried but there was a decent breeze all day. Andy set off immediatly going off route as the guidebook start looked very dirty. He pulled quickly through some tricky climbing that didn't look that steep from the ground, an optical illusion, as it was steep and hard on the blunt end. The finish needed a good clean but overall decent pitch.
The belay was at this big oak tree and would be a great spot for a bivvy. The second pitch is the star. Steep and really really exposed. It made me feel like a beginner, nervous, overgripping and a little wobbly. Andy shot up it no hesitation. The same couldn't be said of me.
We belayed on the pine tree. Sensational spot, the rock dropping steeply beneath.
Andy decided on the last pitch of Crevasse Route rather than MR as it looked very dirty and probably isn't done very often. The start is a pretty hard, for VS, mantle onto a slab. I had trouble higher up, rushing a bit and getting all wrong handed.
We walked off and drank the beers Andy had stashed in the stream on the walk in. I was impressed with Andy's leading straight off the couch. The route felt hard and it appears that my goal of getting really solid on HVS is still a good bit off.
Oh and I spotted at least one very nice boulder problem.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/u_i0GI2x1N0)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Howlin Ridge (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/LtammjICHpo/howlin-ridge.html)
13 July 2013, 12:15 pm
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/9270650444_3446750f83_h.jpg) (http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2882/9270650444_3446750f83_h.jpg)
On Thursday Ped and I did Howlin Ridge. Got up early to avoid the worse of the heat but still got baked on the walk in. Racked up but didn't use rope or climbing shoes. It felt more like a scramble than a climb thought there was a few tricky sections.
Route finding is pretty easy there is pretty much a path. Took about 2hr15 including a lot of photoshoots en route.
Having done it in such beautiful conditions it seems like it would be shame to do it in shitty weather.
As for the grade, I would say Diff rather than VDiff.
For climbers it's a scramble. For scramblers it's a climb.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/LtammjICHpo)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Howling Ridge Article (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/-JFiJs-tHoU/howling-ridge-article.html)
22 July 2013, 11:48 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1UnCkI5zaw0/Ue0b0Cc6lmI/AAAAAAAABY8/LU72fkDwDwg/s640/IMG_7393+-+web.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1UnCkI5zaw0/Ue0b0Cc6lmI/AAAAAAAABY8/LU72fkDwDwg/s1600/IMG_7393+-+web.JPG)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/-JFiJs-tHoU)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering Essentials is at the printers (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/lytnPazKbNA/bouldering-essentials-is-at-printers.html)
29 August 2013, 10:47 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yn2UQv-nGN8/Uh8lrlAhZ_I/AAAAAAAABZM/wYD1CmtvRho/s640/BoulderingEssentials-frontcover-web.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yn2UQv-nGN8/Uh8lrlAhZ_I/AAAAAAAABZM/wYD1CmtvRho/s1600/BoulderingEssentials-frontcover-web.jpg) After a long battle, much longer than anticipated, I send Bouldering Essentials to the printers last week. Almost two years in production, it started off as an ebook but as I sunk more time into it I decided that it merited printing. I'm pretty happy with it. Thanks to everyone on here who gave advice or feedback, all much appreciated. Just before I uploaded the files to the printer I was doing a quick once over of the cover. Checking that bouldering and my name were all spelt correctly. In my final glance I noticed that the subtitle 'The complete guide to boulering' was in fact 'The compete guide to bouldering', missing the l, it was missing both on the front and the back cover. Thanksfully I spotted it as otherwise I might of been visiting the pulper ala Alan Partridge.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/lytnPazKbNA)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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It's OK Dave, I'm sure you'd have "bounced back" from a mistake like that. Good work!
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Last of the evenings in Dalkey (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/FXTGzs-3-bE/last-of-evenings-in-dalkey.html)
6 September 2013, 7:55 pm
My trad revival is going strong and I got out to the Quarry a good few times over the summer. Started slow and worked my way up through the routes. Felt a lot more solid at the end of the summer compared to the start. The goal is and was to get really solid at HVS, not very ambitious maybe, depends how you define solid I suppose. For me being solid means enjoying the climbing, not wobbly my way up, puffing and panting, shouting and shaking. As we lost the light we started meeting earlier and earlier but we were still up against it. So last week Bray and I decided the season was over. So we went out for one last hurrah. I had my eye on Bushmills, it just doesn't look that hard, so was keen to jump staight onto it. Bray suggested a warmup route, a concept I'm not that keen on for trad. I had wanted to do Bingelstein for weeks and last week we went to do it and it had a few people on it. The description mentions a wobbly block and sure enough we heard the block been wobbled from the other side of the quarry. This time it was free and Bray set off, but handed the lead to me as he wasn't keen on the loose rock. I love that shit so set off happy. Thinking it's only VS. Well turns out I found it pretty hard, I considered backing off but as that was going to be a world of pain I hung in. The guide description is bollox, at the top you use the wobbly block to go straight up. Its clear from the state of the vegatation and dirt of the holds that no-one has stepped left for a long time. The moves took me by surprise, it felt more like HVS to me. A little steep, you can't really relax. I was worried about the wobbly block, it didn't move for me though. It's a decent challenging route but it was no warm up. Eventually I topped out but I had spent my nervous energy for the day so we did an easy route and that was that. Moral of the story. Dont' warm up.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/FXTGzs-3-bE)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Losing the Rag (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/jVC8UpZKQcA/losing-rag.html)
23 September 2013, 2:05 pm
Build a board (http://boulderingessentials.com/index.php/building-a-home-bouldering-wall/)last week. Very exciting, a long term ambition fulfilled.
Climbing time is pretty restricted at the moment and it's going to get worse before it gets better. I had some time on Sunday and couldn't decide whether to go to the Quarry and try and get some shots for the guide or check some potential new routes that have been on my mind recently.
Decided to check the routes out so that I can find out if they are worth more effort or just forget about them. So packed up the rope, rack, grigri and various brushes and cleaning tools. Walk in was savage, the ferns are going strong, well overhead in places.
Set up the rope and dropped into the first line. The rock is relatively clean but still needs a good scrub. Ended up cleaning three routes, two are ready to roll and doable the other is a bit harder and has fuckall gear. The routes aren't massively long, but the climbing looks good and the holds are nice, I think there is room/potential for seven lines on the slab.Will head back when the ferns are brown bread.
Hanging on the rope in the warm sun, cleaning holds was a real pleasure. The time zipped by, I think I was cleaning for three hours and could of done another three no problem. It was also the realisation of something that has been knocking around my head for ages, it's good and very satisfying to be there doing it.
For the last few years, more than five but not ten years, I haven't used a wire brush, I gave all mine away as it seemed at the time that there was a lot of wire brushing going on and it was wrecking the rock. I felt it would be hypocritical to tell others not to use them and to use one myself. I have relied on stiff plastic brushes, elbow grease and scrubbing the rock with a thick canvas cloth. The latter is very effective as the loose crystal that are very common on granite get pulled off by the fibres of the cloth but it doesn't damage the rock. I recommend them, they are ideal for bouldering, but for routes where the number of holds is greater they are a little slow.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZ2jrwDjQVk/UkBKRU2K8jI/AAAAAAAABZc/kYSY_9RQT_I/s1600/IMG_8114.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tZ2jrwDjQVk/UkBKRU2K8jI/AAAAAAAABZc/kYSY_9RQT_I/s1600/IMG_8114.jpg)
I pretty much wore through the above cloth on Sunday and this stuff is very heavey 14ounce cotton canvas. Might need to re-invest in a wire brush!(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/jVC8UpZKQcA)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)
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Blog moved to threerockbooks.com and theshortspan.com (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~3/JHKC2ZE4NGs/blog-moved-to-threerockbookscom-and.html)
4 December 2013, 5:11 pm
I'm not going to be posting on this blog anymore, I have moved all the posts and comments over to www.theshortspan.com and I will be posting there and on threerockbooks.com. So update your feeds if you want to read more of this shite.(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/BoulderingIreland/~4/JHKC2ZE4NGs)
Source: Bouldering Ireland (http://boulderingireland.blogspot.com/)