UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: TobyD on June 29, 2010, 11:54:30 am
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Tried this at the weekend and got a thorough beating in some truely awful conditions but covered the ground (which was a good job given the tide situation)... however, the rightwards crux section going up to the mantrap seemed incredibly hard - is this so, does anyone have useful beta for a rematch, or was it a mixture of my incompetance and some somewhat moist holds? (actually, i think my second's words were 'f***ing gipping'). Any info appreciated! ta. :)
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C'mon... where are the Bristolian trad wads who all think it's 6c+?
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Probably all out deep water base jumping in wacky hats :whistle:
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Probably all out deep water base jumping in wacky hats :whistle:
being supported by major caffeine based energy drinks corporations...
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I dunno any beta but perhaps it's just very hard for the grade. I've belayed someone on it who failed and the other weekend, a couple of mates both didn't do it and they're not shy of on-sighting E6. One of them had on-sighted From a Distance the previous day.
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You can add me to the list as well. Couldn't do the moves up right to the Mantrap. Good gear there at least IIRC.
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The answer is to layback the opposite way round to what seems natural. I can't remember which way that is.
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My acquaintance with the crux of this was very short-lived. I seem to recall having my feet way too low whilst trying to pull on some sidepulls before boinging out and down quite an alarming amount.
There then followed a few minutes of prussiking which got me back in touch somewhere mercifully above the crux.
Lucky for me I had taken prussik loops.
Lucky for both of us that G_Ms pert little buttocks fit very securely into rabbit holes.
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I dunno any beta but perhaps it's just very hard for the grade. I've belayed someone on it who failed and the other weekend, a couple of mates both didn't do it and they're not shy of on-sighting E6. One of them had on-sighted From a Distance the previous day.
well that makes me feel better about getting spanked then :)
The answer is to layback the opposite way round to what seems natural. I can't remember which way that is.
i think i can imagine what you mean; in that all the bloody holds seem to face the wrong way at a very inopportune point.
thanks for the knowledge all; valuable just to know that it probably is a bit tricky, rather than purely the poor condition of me and the crag.
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I remember trying to go up and left (or straight up) on some big undercuts, and failed. I'm sure I was told (afterwards) that the key is to head rightwards and layback facing leftwards. This was all about 7 or 8 years ago, so could be very wrong.
If you get it done, can you post the beta - I'm hoping to get down there in a couple of weeks.
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i'm off down to pembroke later today, so i'll report back if i get on HK again.
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I spoke to Nic Sellers last night (who also failed on it recently). He said he thought you had to head rightwards and get you left foot very high to get into the layback. He thought it felt totally desperate too, which doesn't bode well for the likes of me...
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Caff did well to onsight solo it then. Unless you're all being a ragin'.
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Shit the bed. That's going some.
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Not sure you can compare what Caff is capable of, compared with punters like me now, in 2003 or 1997 or whenever. He's world class, I'm totally mediocre.
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I spoke to Nic Sellers last night (who also failed on it recently). He said he thought you had to head rightwards and get you left foot very high to get into the layback. He thought it felt totally desperate too, which doesn't bode well for the likes of me...
HK beta: (gleaned on second this time, after Reeve crushed it!) basically there's an obvious L shaped hold about 3 ft below the dangly tat on the useless peg get left hand on this by crossing or an awkward match, right hand to the lower (its better than the higher one) gaston up by the tat, left up a bit, then right foot to a hidden rubbish vertical foothold underneath you and left,foot as you say, very high on the edge, then pop for the slopy 'jug' below the man trap.
Me and Reeve thought the route felt like about French 7c; or a roughly V6 crux.