UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on April 09, 2010, 01:00:12 am
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All the small things (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KUW2ucrGSuw/all-small-things.html)
8 April 2010, 6:48 pm
A couple of days off (spent fiddling with typography and researching) was good for my arms. An unexpected cessation of rain and warm spring sunshine was plenty reason to drop drop everything and head across the road to the isles again for another sortie in the cave. After displacing a gaggle of sheep who had been in residence during the storms, I warmed up and pretty much knew it was on. First try, a little shaky, but I puffed and grunted my through to the end of the link project; ‘All the small things’, Font 8a, in the bag. Check Pete’s video above.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4486588807_c6aac0e9cb.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4486588807_c6aac0e9cb.jpg)All the small things Font 8a. Photo: Stone Country (http://stonecountry.blogspot.com/)As always there is more to add. The link I did finishes at a logical jug in the apex of the cave. But the fun could be extended by dropping back down into the next undercut groove and heading further into the darkness. The moves on this are possible but withstood an hour trying, balancing precariously on stacked buckets to reach up and feel the tiny edges. That one will go at a large grade. Meantime I’m onto the 4* line at the cave entrance, which will be the best Font 8a+ in Scotland if I have my way.Tomorrow though, I’m bound for the western isles for the first time this season, to check things out for later. Off to pack binoculars, sea sickness tablets and a lot of static rope...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9056968952546357833?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KUW2ucrGSuw)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Proclamation (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ooSVGRGJ3FY/proclamation.html)
9 April 2010, 10:20 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S7-lrukVWXI/AAAAAAAACJQ/FiPGmbzIqMg/s400/harris.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S7-lrukVWXI/AAAAAAAACJQ/FiPGmbzIqMg/s1600/harris.jpg)
Proclamation, Font 7c+ (Photo taken in the old irish tradition (http://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=4296) of lonely Hebridean first ascents; by self-timer, moments after the actual ascent). Going right from here along the rail instead of up will be at least Font 8a.I had the pleasure of taking the Calmac ferry to Harris today for a week of discovering new places to climb, on foot and tomorrow, by boat. After tea in Hotel Hebrides (much recommended) new cafe in Tarbert, I had two hours to climb some rocks.Niggling in my mind since my last two trips to Harris was a wee boulder problem on Clisham that had eluded me on both sessions. It had looked as though there was one way, and one way only to climb the thing. As it was a bald, rounded prow of gneiss I was foolish enough to fall for that. Of course it took me to accept that I was about to fail a third time to start using my imagination. Fifteen minutes later, I’d figured out that climbing most of it with at least one foot above my head might actually work. I had three minutes left before I had to leave for evening meetings with colleagues on our project.So I did it. It was the first time in a while I surprised myself rock climbing and felt elated on the top of a boulder. The reason for this is a renewed hunger for the direct, hands-on grapple with rock texture, as opposed to the winter of being disconnected from the medium by the length of a pair of ice axes all winter long. The Gneiss does a better job of indulging the appreciation of rock and movement aesthetics, and the great feeling of friction underneath the fingers than any rock I can think of.About fifteen inquisitive sheep witnessed my ascent. A few interrupted their continuous chewing motion to make proud proclamations into the evening haze in the glen. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-768868727432979422?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ooSVGRGJ3FY)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The last day or two on Harris (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/-WgFBaYRyGs/last-day-or-two-on-harris.html)
13 April 2010, 10:51 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzqZTJx6I/AAAAAAAACKI/FnMNTjZPqjI/s400/P1020676.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzqZTJx6I/AAAAAAAACKI/FnMNTjZPqjI/s1600/P1020676.jpg)All thinking the same thing?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzgYYzF5I/AAAAAAAACKA/lxtfvJ929rA/s400/P1020776.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzgYYzF5I/AAAAAAAACKA/lxtfvJ929rA/s1600/P1020776.jpg)settling in for the spring
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8Tzc6yccGI/AAAAAAAACJ4/9STW3AXHbrc/s400/P1020789.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8Tzc6yccGI/AAAAAAAACJ4/9STW3AXHbrc/s1600/P1020789.jpg)Donald's catch while he waited for us
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzNk2aCrI/AAAAAAAACJg/bX46N5IOhFE/s400/P1020792.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzNk2aCrI/AAAAAAAACJg/bX46N5IOhFE/s1600/P1020792.jpg)Joe merging blissfully into Glen Scaladale
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzHYd003I/AAAAAAAACJY/3AqD5rDF3_8/s400/P1020812.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzHYd003I/AAAAAAAACJY/3AqD5rDF3_8/s1600/P1020812.jpg)Force production is known to correlate to chin distortion. At least Joe's extended chin is only temporary.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzYqlzUsI/AAAAAAAACJw/C3MEOJBDVts/s400/P1020798.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzYqlzUsI/AAAAAAAACJw/C3MEOJBDVts/s1600/P1020798.jpg)Another V9 for Harris if I can get that left foot swung round
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzSelbWGI/AAAAAAAACJo/NRFX_Tc2O8Q/s400/P1020803.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8TzSelbWGI/AAAAAAAACJo/NRFX_Tc2O8Q/s1600/P1020803.jpg)Done.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5276536780238242449?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/-WgFBaYRyGs)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Rockcast 2010 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bJ6AVuyWLSo/rockcast-2010.html)
16 April 2010, 11:05 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jlpxEY-NI/AAAAAAAACKU/zoHeYRgiHVA/s400/IMG_0264.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jlpxEY-NI/AAAAAAAACKU/zoHeYRgiHVA/s1600/IMG_0264.jpg)
The mighty Sron Ulladale, Isle of HarrisIt’s great to be able to talk about this now…Nearly three years ago, the BBC attempted to run the ambitious live ‘Great Climb’ live broadcast on Cairngorm, with myself and a team of climbers from all over the world. We planned, rigged and trained for the big day. And then it rained. The washout was a huge disappointment, partially avenged by my ascent of my project on Hell’s Lum cliff a few days later which became the film ‘To Hell and Back’. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#hellandback)Ever since, Triple Echo Productions who were behind the Great Climb project have been planning to make another attempt at a big live climbing event for the BBC. This year, the necessary components have aligned and we have a plan:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmU7a4cRI/AAAAAAAACK8/29d-pXqtr4c/s400/Dave+&+Tim.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmU7a4cRI/AAAAAAAACK8/29d-pXqtr4c/s1600/Dave+&+Tim.jpg)
Tim Emmett and myself climbing on Ben Nevis in 2007On 28th August, myself and Tim Emmett (http://www.timemmett.com/) are planning to attempt a hard new route on Sron Ulladale, the biggest overhanging piece of rock in the UK (700 feet high, overhanging it’s base by 150 feet or so). As you might imagine, the prospect of this brings feelings of massive excitement, together with a fair dose of intimidation, pressure and anticipation. The correct ingredients for a fine adventure.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmX3rT7QI/AAAAAAAACLM/EQTZTv9v3hE/s400/IMG_0284.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmX3rT7QI/AAAAAAAACLM/EQTZTv9v3hE/s1600/IMG_0284.jpg)
Harris landscapeI’d love to tell you exactly which part of the mighty Sron we will try to climb, but last week on our recce, close inspection of the cliff was out of the question due to the golden eagles, nesting on the main part of the face once again. If the eagles hatch chicks (best of luck to them!) we won’t be able to look closely at the lines until August. So until then, it’s training and waiting. Naturally, our plan is to climb the hardest possible route that imagination and finger strength allows.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmW-mxYtI/AAAAAAAACLE/epFAIzG50iU/s400/IMG_0278.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmW-mxYtI/AAAAAAAACLE/epFAIzG50iU/s1600/IMG_0278.jpg)
Colin Wells standing at the foot of Sron Ulladale. The rock in shot above him is roughly the first fifth of the cliff height (!).However, we have something else up our sleeves for the meantime. We’ll be doing another challenge to feature in the 6 hour live broadcast. We’ll try a triple five challenge of five new climbs on five hebridean islands in five days. Last week Donald (http://www.seatrek.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=55&Itemid=131) took us around many a far flung corner of the Western Isles, showing us many a gobsmacking unclimbed cliff, geo or stack. After serial protracted deliberations in Hotel Hebrides we shortlisted the many amazing cliffs into five objectives, which we will travel between by boat, sleeping below deck, in camps or under boulders.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmZOW55lI/AAAAAAAACLU/iDWW2uyXbcs/s400/Lewis+043.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmZOW55lI/AAAAAAAACLU/iDWW2uyXbcs/s1600/Lewis+043.jpg)
I’ll have a lot more to say about this as more plans emerge in the coming weeks. Right now I have to go back to training for it. More on the BBC site here. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/pressoffice/pressreleases/stories/2010/04_april/16/scotland.shtml)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-602734001038897615?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bJ6AVuyWLSo)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Some quick facts about the Sron Ulladale live climb (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/oIQn_H4G0Vc/some-quick-facts-about-sron-ulladale.html)
17 April 2010, 6:21 pm
Today I’ve been getting some questions about the BBC live broadcast on Aug 28th. Here are some answers as far as I know them right now:What happens if it rains, just like last time?Two possibilities - First the Sron is just about the biggest natural umbrella in the UK. The part we want to climb stays completely dry in the foulest of atlantic weather fronts. Our only Achilles heel might be if an isolated hold or section of the route is seeping from a crack, or the top of the overhangs are too hard to climb in the wet. I’ll know more about this after the golden eagles have finished raising their chicks and I can get on the cliff to look closely. I think in all but a northwesterly gale blowing heavy rain and body numbing cold straight into the overhangs, we should be sheltered and able to climb at least most of it. I have seen some methods of getting to the top by some creative route finding if we can’t avoid wet rock at the top 50m, but it totally depends on the exact nature of the terrain we end up climbing.But in case of a truly grim storm that really interferes with our climbing, we’ll have a ton of footage to show you from the triple five challenge which we are filming next month. The objectives are all pretty hard - E7 or harder. Naturally we have some options here for frustrating weather as well. Either way, there should be plenty of fine exciting climbing action to bring you on Aug 28th.I can’t get BBC2 Scotland, can I still watch it?Yes, it will be streamed live on the BBC website, and shown on the BBC HD channel too. Not doubt there will be plenty of other methods to tune in besides - more on this as I get the information from the BBC.What will you do if you can’t climb your route?I’ll fall off and that’ll be that! I’m expecting we’ll have a ‘living end’ standard piece of climbing to do. I’ll be giving it plenty and will be arriving well prepared, psyched and ready for a fine battle. I’m sure Tim will be too. But such is the nature of doing new things in sport; barriers can’t be broken every time. So we might fall off. We’ll all find out on the day. No pressure then…What islands are you climbing on during the triple five week?I’ll tell you when I see the forecast the day before we actually climb them, and if Donald can get close enough to the cliffs to land us in his boat. In other words, we have a plan, but that plan is guaranteed to change, and change again as the Hebridean weather has the last word. You’ll have to take my word for it that we’ll be climbing some stunning pieces of rock in some stunning places.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4274662837945378716?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/oIQn_H4G0Vc)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Triangulation sessions in the cave (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HDhPt894mxs/triangulation-sessions-in-cave.html)
18 April 2010, 11:03 pm
Good session in the cave today in spring sunshine. I was feeling totally wasted from working far too late for a couple of days (&nights). But seemed to pull this out of the bag despite wobbly arms and sketchy concentration. Maybe it was just too good to slip by…Actually it was the killer toe hook that sealed the deal. I think I have seen the missing link to extent the big traverse right back into the second half of the cave. Perfect spring day today. PS the problem is called Triangulation and it's in the Font 8a ballpark (if not then easier, I lose track).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7806204223934608342?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HDhPt894mxs)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What school can’t teach you about climbing hard (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/5OEpyoRz9_4/what-school-cant-teach-you-about.html)
27 April 2010, 2:28 pm
I just did some interviews about my climbing for various publications. The questions, in one way or another, ask “what is your secret”? It’s especially relevant in my case as I can’t answer that I’m naturally strong, or thin or talented or started climbing before I could walk.I’ve given roundabout answers for years, not understanding the underlying theme myself. In parallel I’ve tried to understand why climbers I’ve coached plateau where they do with apparently all the practical ingredients to keep improving.Recently I’ve thought and talked a lot about school and it’s effects down the line. Sad as it makes me to say it, I learned my ‘secret’ to doing what I have when I was away from school, which happened a lot. A lot of school is about explicitly or implicitly working to fit in. To attain the satisfactory standard of your peers and nothing more. The minimum necessary to get an A and then you can coast. But good performance is by definition not fitting in. You won’t find the solution to the technique, motivation, training, financial, practical or unexplained problem that’s holding you back, by waiting for your teachers or peers or someone on a forum to tell you.I’m not saying they are useless - they are essential for pointing you in the right direction and supplying the initial shove. After that you roll to a stop pretty quickly unless you start producing your own momentum.Fifteen years of learning to wait to be told what to do and put in the minimum amount of work is really hard to unlearn. Start now!In the rest of this post I’ve given some pratical examples about how this idea helped me specifically and also some famous climbers. It’s maybe a bit technical for this blog, so I’ve posted it on my coaching blog (http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/04/what-school-cant-teach-you-about.html).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3460069458451303552?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/5OEpyoRz9_4)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Oversimplification of sport (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/0v1bVvOcQFA/oversimplification-of-sport.html)
28 April 2010, 5:50 pm
Last night my extended post (http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/04/what-school-cant-teach-you-about.html) about school, influences and looking for shortcuts sparked off some interesting comments over on my Online Climbing Coach blog. They prompted another post from me (http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/04/chasing-numbers-versus-breaking.html) about the subtle but critical difference between ‘chasing numbers’ in sport and actually improving. Commenting on that this, Gian questioned how the two can have such different implications for enjoyment of sport, since after all “numbers are meant to be a description of difficulty”.Simplified numbers or statements often are used these days to form the whole story about sport, and that is one of the reasons it’s so fraught with commoditization, unfairness, predictability and cheating. In big sports, a lot of money and time goes into finding ways to keep on top of drug cheats, so far with arguably little effect. In my opinion, it’s attacking from the wrong end. Attacking the incentive to cheat would work many fold better, and the weapons of war are the pens of the marketers of sport and the media that consumes it.Numbers are an index of difficulty of a climb (or some other task), but not an index of performance. To get a fair idea of how impressive a sport performance is, we usually need two, sometimes three bits of information sandwiched together. A climbing example: One bit - “He climbed that E7”Two bits - “He onsighted that E7”Three bits - “He onsighted that E7 in the rain”One bit headlines are always more attractive for media and they resort to it more and more in all corners of media. It’s a short term way to get more hits (and a long term route to implosion but that’s another blog post). Two bit headlines at least are needed by everyone to keep sport working. When I say everyone, I mean athletes themselves as well.Using numbers as a one bit index of performance is drain on the motivation in the long term and an continued improvement is destined to stall big time! “I’ve climbed E7!” is not enough, because the two bit headline in the background might be “I’ve climbed E7 but it was a soft touch...or it was a fluke…or I fasted for a week...or I cheated”For athletes, the improvement is most motivating and hence sustainable if the number is the secondary part of the headline:“I climbed well, got over my fear, and climbed that E7”“My footwork is much better this year after all those drills, so I knew I could get that 7a”“I really disciplined myself to rest properly, and I’m stronger for it”That kind of thinking shows how there’s more to taking satisfaction from improvement than the number. It’s not a lot more - just one or two extra bits of information - but crucial. Sports don’t need to be super complicated to be motivating, but rounding everything down to the lowest common denominator all the time is very toxic for motivation.
Footnote: I do a lot of headpointed trad routes, and a few people get very concerned that folk out there might not properly weight the performance of, for example, 'E11 headpoint'. Sure, a few inexperienced onlookers might not understand the significance of the second bit of that statement. I don't think this small group are really worth worrying too much about. As for the rest of us, I think people are smart enough to get their head around the idea that the number takes on a different meaning if you climbed in headpoint style.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1478935631124307970?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/0v1bVvOcQFA)
Source: Dave MacLeod (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Great Climb 2010 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bJ6AVuyWLSo/rockcast-2010.html)
4 May 2010, 6:43 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jlpxEY-NI/AAAAAAAACKU/zoHeYRgiHVA/s400/IMG_0264.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jlpxEY-NI/AAAAAAAACKU/zoHeYRgiHVA/s1600/IMG_0264.jpg)
The mighty Sron Ulladale, Isle of HarrisIt’s great to be able to talk about this now…Nearly three years ago, the BBC attempted to run the ambitious live ‘Great Climb’ live broadcast on Cairngorm, with myself and a team of climbers from all over the world. We planned, rigged and trained for the big day. And then it rained. The washout was a huge disappointment, partially avenged by my ascent of my project on Hell’s Lum cliff a few days later which became the film ‘To Hell and Back’. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#hellandback)Ever since, Triple Echo Productions who were behind the Great Climb project have been planning to make another attempt at a big live climbing event for the BBC. This year, the necessary components have aligned and we have a plan:
On 28th August, myself and Tim Emmett (http://www.timemmett.com/) are planning to attempt a hard new route on Sron Ulladale, the biggest overhanging piece of rock in the UK (700 feet high, overhanging it’s base by 150 feet or so). As you might imagine, the prospect of this brings feelings of massive excitement, together with a fair dose of intimidation, pressure and anticipation. The correct ingredients for a fine adventure.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmX3rT7QI/AAAAAAAACLM/EQTZTv9v3hE/s400/IMG_0284.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmX3rT7QI/AAAAAAAACLM/EQTZTv9v3hE/s1600/IMG_0284.jpg)
Harris landscapeI’d love to tell you exactly which part of the mighty Sron we will try to climb, but last week on our recce, close inspection of the cliff was out of the question due to the golden eagles, nesting on the main part of the face once again. If the eagles hatch chicks (best of luck to them!) we won’t be able to look closely at the lines until August. So until then, it’s training and waiting. Naturally, our plan is to climb the hardest possible route that imagination and finger strength allows.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmW-mxYtI/AAAAAAAACLE/epFAIzG50iU/s400/IMG_0278.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmW-mxYtI/AAAAAAAACLE/epFAIzG50iU/s1600/IMG_0278.jpg)
Colin Wells standing at the foot of Sron Ulladale. The rock in shot above him is roughly the first fifth of the cliff height (!).However, we have something else up our sleeves for the meantime. We’ll be doing another challenge to feature in the 6 hour live broadcast. We’ll try a triple five challenge of five new climbs on five hebridean islands in five days. Last week Donald (http://www.seatrek.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=55&Itemid=131) took us around many a far flung corner of the Western Isles, showing us many a gobsmacking unclimbed cliff, geo or stack. After serial protracted deliberations in Hotel Hebrides we shortlisted the many amazing cliffs into five objectives, which we will travel between by boat, sleeping below deck, in camps or under boulders.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmZOW55lI/AAAAAAAACLU/iDWW2uyXbcs/s400/Lewis+043.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S8jmZOW55lI/AAAAAAAACLU/iDWW2uyXbcs/s1600/Lewis+043.jpg)
I’ll have a lot more to say about this as more plans emerge in the coming weeks. Right now I have to go back to training for it. More on the BBC site here. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/pressoffice/pressreleases/stories/2010/04_april/16/scotland.shtml)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-602734001038897615?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bJ6AVuyWLSo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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In the middle (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/p3N1nHM6y0c/in-middle.html)
4 May 2010, 9:43 pm
Right now I’m where climbing is best - in the middle of two or three hard projects all getting serious attention from me. It’s great and I’m feeling 90% rock fit after the winter at last. First up I’ve been in the big cave over at Arisaig. I’ve done the big link of the entire cave in two halves now and it’s still feeling like at least an 8c+ route, if a horizontal one! It’s one of those lines that I’m certain would feel like 9a if it was on a big cliff. But it’s very easy to work as it’s a roof boulder problem. We’ll have to see how it feels when I can get to the crux from the start. Yesterday, I returned to a brilliant project I bolted in 2007. I couldn’t get near the crux moves at that time and sacked it off, feeling it was 9a+ at least and too nasty and sharp on the fingers to justify. But it niggled. So I went back with fresh eyes. After a couple of hours on the shunt a new sequence emerged - fantastic technical but aggressive moves. It went at about V10, but you have to do an 8c/+ route to get there. Also I am watching the weather and hovering over the prospect of returning to a big project from last year. With more snow forecast in the mountains, it might be a bit chilly just yet, but I’m feeling in shape for it and have the impatience to get through a hard lead right now.A lot going on…I lost my camera, otherwise I’d have some more pics of these to show you. But I should be more organised now the weight of the big site redesign is (just about ) done.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5849499845171093235?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/p3N1nHM6y0c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New site! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/oKk1W5xRwks/new-site.html)
4 May 2010, 9:46 pm
After a good bit of fiddling and long evenings I have a newly redesigned and reorganised site. Apart from changing the look, the biggest change is to our shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html) which we’ve made easier to use, added more products and shopping in Euro and US Dollar currencies for those whom that applies. We’ve been getting a lot of orders of your favourite climbing books and DVDs from all over the world, so we hope this helps.Thanks for supporting our shop - it really helps us. I’m really keen to hear any feedback anyone has about the site - good, bad or problems needing fixing. Please leave me a comment. It’s hard to get time to triple check everything so it really helps to have a nudge when needed.
PS: If you visit this blog directly, keep in mind you could subscribe to my feed (http://feeds.feedburner.com/DaveMacleod) so you get the posts as they come.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8971890581673557482?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/oKk1W5xRwks)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Thanks uncertainty (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wzLqDi14srY/thanks-uncertainty.html)
7 May 2010, 9:53 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PhCNQbMGI/AAAAAAAACM4/Jt1W_DfggGU/s400/thx_179.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PhCNQbMGI/AAAAAAAACM4/Jt1W_DfggGU/s1600/thx_179.jpg)
How you feel about adventures or stuff you’re trying but can’t yet do depends a lot on your mood. It’s not easy, but it is sometimes possible to take some control over that.Liking this note from the Thanks Blog which is here. (http://thxthxthx.com/)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9126771180899526455?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wzLqDi14srY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Devastation succumbs to the Redpath grit (and massive shoulders) (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/aao6IUD7AC4/devastation-succumbs-to-redpath-grit.html)
7 May 2010, 10:50 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PvzS4HKCI/AAAAAAAACNA/o_Uwztnluds/s400/devastationdave1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PvzS4HKCI/AAAAAAAACNA/o_Uwztnluds/s1600/devastationdave1.jpg)Dave Redpath climbing Devastation Generation 8c, Dumbuck. Photo: Mark Mcgowan (http://markmcgowan01.blogspot.com/)
I was most excited and heartened to read Dave Redpath’s blog this morning of his success on Devastation Generation (8c). Not just any 8c, or any 8c ascent. It’s a victory after 14 years of bolting it, naming it with a lot of personal meaning, trying it on and off, training for it, talking about it, thinking about it and pulling on that grim sequence of flat undercuts.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PwDbKO4NI/AAAAAAAACNI/Ht-LKkiYbig/s400/devastationdave2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-PwDbKO4NI/AAAAAAAACNI/Ht-LKkiYbig/s1600/devastationdave2.jpg)
Only those who are up to the pain of 14 years of struggle and uncertainty get to have a chain clip as satisfying as this. Photo: Mark Mcgowan (http://markmcgowan01.blogspot.com/)I first tried it with Dave in 1999 (!). Later, he passed the baton briefly to me while he did a PhD and I had a fine battle with to climb it in 2004. Malcolm Smith got a repeat in 2007. Even though I managed to climb it first, it was definitely always Dave’s route, not just because of the name, but it became important because it was important to Dave.It’s funny - that idea. I saw the same thing happen with my own route Rhapsody. It got a lot of attention when famous climbers came to little old Dumbarton to repeat it. Folk couldn’t understand the big attraction because it was a bit of a weird line, a bit eliminate, and the crag is a bit scruffy. Was it just the grade that created the draw? No, it was the meaning created by the effort of the first ascent. That was communicated in the film E11, and it was enough to make climbers fly around the world twice and fall off that headwall countless times to repeat it. A good reason to make climbing films, don’t you think?Of course, there are stories like this everywhere. The other week I was climbing at an obscure little crag in Yorkshire with a 9a+ on it called Violent New Breed. Looking at it, I have no doubt it’s up there with the hardest sport routes anywhere. The holds are almost invisible. Unless a curious soul takes it on, it will probably sit there unnoticed for a long time. Does it matter? Not in the grand scheme of things. But it is a shame that John Gaskins story of this route is essentially untold. Sharing inspiration is a good cause. The routes themselves are not all climbers can give to their sport. Cynical ‘old prunes’ (to coin a British phrase) with blinkers on think blogs, films etc are all about self-promotion and ego massage. All I can think reading Dave’s blog this morning was that I was inspired and thanks for sharing it! If you’d like a slice, Dave’s blog is here. (http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/06/devastation-generation/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3011976186686849820?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/aao6IUD7AC4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Big link in the cave complete (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/frGHfjLfysA/big-link-in-cave-complete.html)
12 May 2010, 5:28 pm
At Eternity’s Gate, V13Climbing tough projects that take you a wee while is always a game of balancing stakes. The more work and effort you put in, the more progress you make. The more you drop other things and focus on just that, the faster and more consistent the progress. But at the same time, it gets ever harder not to be become attached to success on it as you sense it getting close. And as you stretch your hand further, the potential for backfire gets ever larger.In my favour, a fortnight of cold weather, an lb of body mass trimmed and an uninterrupted series of work sessions. But a broken hold, the urgency of impending warm weather and the monotonous hard physical work re-awakening just about every injury niggle I’ve ever had was making the end of the game imminent.What to do? Ignore it and keep making hard won baby steps. Just as I was feeling like I’d have no chance of maintaining finger and toe strength through that section of little crimps just before the bat-hang, I found myself puffing and panting through them and hanging from the jug before the final V8+ section. I initially felt this was V14 for sure, but a couple of last minute sequence tweaks was enough to keep the flow of moves going and the anaerobic countdown just inside my capacity. Who knows though, F8c+ might be a more appropriate rating than V13 seeing as it’s 60 moves long!I’ll get a topo up for the cave soon as I can. Meanwhile, In a fatigued state I dragged my sore arms around another hillside near Arisaig with Donald and found this:
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-reNy151FI/AAAAAAAACNQ/msFZlX6s4_U/s400/IMG_0142.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-reNy151FI/AAAAAAAACNQ/msFZlX6s4_U/s1600/IMG_0142.jpg)
The little lean-to roof was so innocuous we almost walked past, but inside lucked a 50 degree overhanging wall covered in little positive edges like something straight out of a Swiss granite valley. 4 mini-classics between V7 and V9 later, could only sit and watch the snow showers drifting over Skye and the small isles for the rest of the afternoon.Tomorrow, the trad season starts for me, although there’s a chance the lingering winter might make it a false start. We’ll see...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-reO89QqrI/AAAAAAAACNY/2-czdf8mjwI/s400/IMG_0143.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S-reO89QqrI/AAAAAAAACNY/2-czdf8mjwI/s1600/IMG_0143.jpg)
Another snow shower pummels EiggDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4010114297922167053?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/frGHfjLfysA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What about everywhere else? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Sw6YdH4Yins/what-about-everywhere-else.html)
23 May 2010, 4:05 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lSRRw40qI/AAAAAAAACNg/Ae4fNGsDxq8/s400/graph.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lSRRw40qI/AAAAAAAACNg/Ae4fNGsDxq8/s1600/graph.png)
Consider this graph from Chris Anderson’s blog. It shows air travel patterns from the UK over the recent decade.The changes in the airline industry and the way recommendations flow is meaning that more people are going to the places you’ve not heard of before, not just the famous spots. When I saw this I immediately thought of climbing. I’ve always had a strange relationship to travelling to climbing destinations. Although, the famous spots around the world are such because they are (on the surface at least) good, I find that I don’t always have the best time there.Sometimes the good climbing is offset by too many people, crap logistics, unfriendly people, bad food etc etc..There is good climbing in soooo many places all over the planet. Folk ask me a lot why I don’t travel abroad more to climb. I sort of understand why they ask because people generally are still fairly conditioned to think about the famous places and imagine that if they haven't heard of somewhere it’s cant be good.Lot’s of people haven’t heard of most of the crags I climb on, so they wouldn’t at first realise that just because I live in one of the ‘everywhere else’ places it doesn’t mean I don’t have just as good climbing nearby. In 17 years I’ve never once felt bored or short of new things to go and climb within three hours drive of my house. What more could you ask for?Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8424865972333632636?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Sw6YdH4Yins)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Sessions with Cubby and Mr King (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZHxOCS2BUBE/sessions-with-cubby-and-mr-king.html)
23 May 2010, 4:21 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lVqYHUuNI/AAAAAAAACNo/E8JaHWfGhpY/s400/DSC_9818.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lVqYHUuNI/AAAAAAAACNo/E8JaHWfGhpY/s1600/DSC_9818.jpg)
Donald enjoying good conglomerate at the MoundOn the way back south from Thurso I stopped off at some conglomerate bouldering not far south of Golspie with Donald that Cubby told me about. We spent a nice couple of hours climbing here. Worth knowing about. They are at The Mound, Loch Fleet (NH 766 978) with two separate walls, both about a minutes walk from the car and from each other through the trees.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lVryNVwOI/AAAAAAAACNw/6MgpbC-R2b0/s400/DSC_9838.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lVryNVwOI/AAAAAAAACNw/6MgpbC-R2b0/s1600/DSC_9838.jpg)
Cubby demonstrating his traverse on a lovely May afternoon in Glen Etive. I added a lower variation to this at a burly V9 or so.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3784262198925456438?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZHxOCS2BUBE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Orkney false start (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ePTeYPyvEXY/orkney-false-start.html)
23 May 2010, 4:36 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lZLgZelhI/AAAAAAAACOA/EBv6H9ltFRI/s400/DSC_9758.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lZLgZelhI/AAAAAAAACOA/EBv6H9ltFRI/s1600/DSC_9758.jpg)
With V13 fitness finally regained after the endless winter of snowy mountaineering, I was obviously keen to get back to me project on Orkney - freeing the original line of the Longhope Route. But winter, in the northern end of the UK at least, wasn’t giving in just yet.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lZJy6c3II/AAAAAAAACN4/C4HL4IiJskQ/s400/DSC_9780.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S_lZJy6c3II/AAAAAAAACN4/C4HL4IiJskQ/s1600/DSC_9780.jpg)
But we went anyway. It was kind of as bad as we expected, but worth going anyway. Donald and I spent a couple of days on the wall, one dangling about on the top and one on the bottom pitches. A lot of shivering was done, and trying to climb an F8c pitch in full winter mountaineering clothing didn’t fully work out. So we bailed without a great deal of deliberation.Nevertheless I learned some more things about the route, namely that I need more time on it and it’s going to be damn hard. And visiting Orkney is always a pleasure. It was good to see that Donald found the lower pitches as adventurous as I think they are. I did almost have a nasty fall when a block I was holding onto parted company with the wall while a loooong way above a runner. A missed heartbeat to say the least. The appetite is well and truly stoked for a proper encounter when the ocean warms up to something less than arctic.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7026275639620532141?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ePTeYPyvEXY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Recent good stuff that happened (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/3D8xUxr9_io/recent-good-stuff-that-happened.html)
25 May 2010, 12:55 pm
This week I’ve had a good lesson in making goals. On the whole I’m absolutely terrible at achieving goals. I get by with looking to those who don’t know me that I’m actually okay at making goals because of two workarounds: I have lots of goals, I work really hard and I work all the time.Working really hard and working all the time are good in small doses. But in the long run, it’s really really bad for you. It’s been really really bad for me. I can’t tell you how bad. In fact it’s the thing I hate about myself the most.The smart thing to to, that I haven’t figured out how to do yet is to alternate work, rest and discerning between important and not important goals.
The root of my problem has been irrational fear, not being realistic about what I can and can’t do and being too simplistic in my approach to goals of different types.Too simplistic? I read a nice idea about stuff that can’t fail, and it opened my eyes to a paradox. Some goals become much harder to achieve if you can’t afford to fail. Usually, you actually can afford to fail and in fact must allow yourself to fail many times if you’re going to manage it. It just feels like you can’t because of inner or social pressure.A lot of climbing falls under this category. There’s the simple idea I explained in my book about how being afraid to fail, or fall in climbing cripples it utterly in most situations. I really took this to heart years ago in my climbing. If you watched E11 you’ll see that I really learned on that route that it didn’t matter that I wasn’t up to the job of climbing E11. I failed again and got closer to the level, one step at a time in a relentless push right to the end.Great. But I learned the hard way that the same approach to other tasks doesn’t work. Sometimes you really can’t afford to fail, you don’t get another try. Different approach needed. Trouble for me is that I got really in the habit of not worrying about failing, having mountains of goals and not worrying if I fail on most but succeed on some in the process. So it’s an uphill struggle to adjust.Irrational fear? Like most folk, I have stupid fears and waste a large amount of time and energy acting them out. Stupid, stupid, stupid! Hard to ignore all the same.Not being realistic is a simple one - I just have an appetite bigger than my belly.Good to have learned more about these things, hard to put into practice. But a few days of starting and I feel a little better.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7006345676800948053?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/3D8xUxr9_io)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Triple 5 challenge (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/XzqOzueI660/triple-5-challenge.html)
6 June 2010, 10:23 pm
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Enjoying a wall of immaculate Gabbro on St KildaIn preparation for The Great Climb on August 28th - our live Climb on Sron Uladail, Richard Else from Triple Echo set Tim Emmett and myself a separate climbing challenge to attempt.5 new routes on 5 Hebridean islands in 5 days - the Triple 5. The parameters were totally fixed. No second chances, no extensions, no workarounds. I was fairly skeptical to say the least that we could pull it off. Sometimes I’ve barely managed to get five new (hard) routes in five years in the hebrides due to it’s fickle weather. The idea of turning up by boat each morning on a different island, rigging ropes for four cameras and coming away with new hard rock climbs back to back seemed a tad far fetched. And so it turned out. We had rain, problems with boats, gales, soakings by waves, breaking holds, falls and violent sea sickness. In amongst all that we had some surprising successes. Obviously to see the outcome you’ll have to tune in to the BBC on your preferred platform on August 28th. How much you’ll see of our adventure will depend on the action happening on our Sron Uladail attempt. If it’s all guns blazing on the Sron then our Triple 5 adventure might be shown a little later. We’ll have to see…Here are a some pictures to give you a taster of a week that all of us will remember for a long time:
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Tim eyes up the Shiants as we approach.
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Lonely cottage on the Shiants.
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The 30 foot roof on Creag Mo which I fell off three times.
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Interested locals watch us on Galta Mor, The Shiants.
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Tim enjoying the wildlife packed sea lochs on Lewis.
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A moment of concentration as precious cargo is carried aboard.
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The Cuma waits patiently for us in Village Bay, St Kilda.
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Lewis local. Didn’t say much..
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Tea and frantic planning for tomorrow on the boat.
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Nice Brian, nice.
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Gary takes us across Loch Seaforth after a long night aboard. On the journey to St Kilda I was the most violently sick I've been in my life. My fulmar impression was only matched by Cubby. The nausea failed to wear off as we prepared for our new route on the island. I nearly fainted on the 'high street' of Village Bay. What a state.
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Joe enjoying the tour of St Kilda.
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St Kilda’s stacks blew us away.
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A magic sight of St Kilda’s spiky surreal skyline.
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Me, and a team of people who are quite amazing at what they do. It was a pleasure...
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2662989926797719683?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/XzqOzueI660)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hot Aches Boxless set until the end of June (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/pzuhYPcbeao/hot-aches-boxless-set-until-end-of-june.html)
8 June 2010, 4:51 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hotachesboxlessset.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hotachesboxlessset.jpg)Just a heads up that the ‘boxless’ set of the Hot Aches productions archive of DVDs is only available until the end of June:
E11, Committed 1, Committed 2, All Mixed Up and Monkey See, Monkey Do for £50.
If you like the look of the offer, now is the time to go here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hotachesboxlessset.html) and get it.This clip is of me on the Hurting from Committed 2. Btw most of Hot Aches film are now available free in short sections on their You Tube channel here. (http://www.youtube.com/user/HotAches)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5328086123986173308?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/pzuhYPcbeao)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing with Emmett (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/IEf0_xMmIUU/climbing-with-emmett.html)
8 June 2010, 7:58 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TA6f_0zePBI/AAAAAAAACQQ/j9E4KKiRfOE/s400/IMG_0063.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TA6f_0zePBI/AAAAAAAACQQ/j9E4KKiRfOE/s1600/IMG_0063.jpg)A week spent rushing around the Hebrides attempting E7s and 8s with Tim Emmett, under the constant scrutiny of a camera team was a good learning experience. Even more so as we rounded it off with a rather soul searching set of interviews with Edi Stark (who has won a lot of awards for her ability to dig deep into the motivations of her interviewees). Any time spent in the company of athletes like Tim is fascinating. Through our own chats, seeing each other in action and talking with Edi we could see some big differences in our approaches to hard climbing. It’s clear to me that there are several ways to skin a cat when it comes to sport performance psychological strategies, especially when you take into account the interaction of a particular strategy with a strong personality.Today I was reading an interesting idea about nostalgia for the future, and it got me thinking about Tim’s approach. Successful athletes are by definition, driven. It’s that extra they can give that everyone else can’t that inspires us to do at least a little better. But folk like Tim do a LOT better. The guy broke his ankle late this winter and was in plaster just a handful of weeks ago, but did Wales’ first E10 on Sunday. That’s impressive, but from him, not surprising.Everyone enjoys nostalgia about the past, but I must admit I’d not thought of the concept of nostalgia about the future. We like visualising what the future will be like (usually like the present but a bit nicer, like with your latest project in the bag). Folk that visualise some quite big things and get attached to the vision they’ve created. When failure to realise the vision stares you in the face, it’s painful. And the pain, or fear, can bring out the best in you. It can make you swallow your fear and go for that hold, or get up earlier and train, or rearrange your life to make it happen.Explained like that, it sounds a bit negative. And sometimes it can be. There are a lot of unhappy sports people out there, elite and non-elite. Sometimes it’s ok to feel this pain in a negative way and use it as a tool, so long as you can stand back afterwards and see it for what it is. Not everyone can.If you are really a master of goals and following them, you can use your attachment to your vision of the future as a great tool, but never be dragged down into regret.It seems to me that Tim is a master of this game. Making big goals, facing the potential for failure absolutely head on, feeling the fear and using it as a tool. But how does this square with being happy and relaxed about life? It’s an apparent paradox.The answer is that the master of goals has the ability to become deeply attached to an ambitious, even improbable outcome, like climbing an E10, yet drop that vision and move on at a moment’s notice without regret if it doesn't work out. I’ve always marvelled at Tim’s ability to set ridiculous goals, tons of them, one after the other, in different sports, and manage so many of them. But no athlete ever manages all their goals. Hence so many are unhappy when they retire from them.Being a successful athlete implies a deep dissatisfaction with your immediate performance. It’s the only thing that produces enough motivational momentum to realise big changes in performance, year after year. The ability to quit those goals held so dearly as quickly as possible, and without lingering regret is both the secret to achieving many of them and to avoiding turning into an unhappy zealot. Easier said than done. If you get the chance, go to one of Tim’s lectures for a lesson from an exemplar.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8608525862086680423?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/IEf0_xMmIUU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Another highland day, another new venue (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iorNLwWgfPo/another-highland-day-another-new-venue.html)
8 June 2010, 8:00 pm
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I met up with Michael and Tom to get the tour of the routes they’ve been working on Ben Narnain at Arrochar. Last year Michael was full of tales of his new route Machete E6 6b - a big wall climb, big runouts, crucial cam slots, and wasn’t sure if it could be edging E7. After lazing in the sun watching Michael clean his next project, I went for the flash with Michael sending up encouragement and the odd bit of information to help decode the rough blank expanse above me. When I hesitated, he assured me holds were on the way. When he warned they were slopey, I was glad of the heads up before I wobbled within reach of them. It didn’t help that I took all the wrong gear up the route and made a right mess of placing what I did take. Consequently, climbing it like I was soloing provided a nice workout for body and mind. It all felt a bit tiring by the time I was driving northwards back home and had to stop for a cup of tea to keep my sleepy head functioning for a final hour before collapsing into bed.Tomorrow, weather permitting I’m on a solo training trip for the Longhope route again.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4052424129128027792?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iorNLwWgfPo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Interesting neuroscientist’s fiction (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/1I5aCYMHGZg/interesting-neuroscientists-fiction.html)
14 June 2010, 12:18 pm
I was listening to an interesting discussion by a bunch of neuroscientists as they talked through some fictional stories about afterlives and how consideration of the idea of an afterlife causes us to see some interesting perspectives on real life. One brought up a film called ‘Afterlife’ where people were asked to think back on their life to a favourite moment or memory, which they would then be allowed to take with them to the afterlife and could live in their favourite moment forever more.All very far fetched, right… But the interesting thing was that the memories that people in the story picked were often the most seemingly banal moments - sitting doing nothing in a particular place, simply being with someone special in a totally ordinary setting etc..It was funny for me listening, while on a long walk out from a session on a hard project and in the process of psyching myself up to try and finish it. The most memorable days trying hard projects in the past have not generally been the day I did them, or even days of good progress. To pick one of my hard climbs as an example, my best memory from doing Rhapsody was late night runs around Dumbarton, simply enjoying the feeling of having done several hours of training that day and winding down with a run. This is not to say that having the projects to work towards is therefore not important - quite the opposite. They are essential as the catalyst for the experiences gathered along the way. Without them, life would be emptier. The flip side of this is that being dependent on success on them closes off the link to those experiences along the way - the ones that will really be memorable long after the project is just a number in your logbook.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8552785545594378370?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/1I5aCYMHGZg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New Chainsaw (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/NmDv59szyuE/new-chainsaw.html)
14 June 2010, 12:28 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TBYfy_nOZxI/AAAAAAAACQg/Ky4cBu0S4Ec/s400/IMG_0364.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TBYfy_nOZxI/AAAAAAAACQg/Ky4cBu0S4Ec/s1600/IMG_0364.JPG)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1146851118823377930?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/NmDv59szyuE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Still shivering on Hoy (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JOcyfdwZeqA/still-shivering-on-hoy.html)
14 June 2010, 12:31 pm
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Thanks for the thought
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Mmmm, inviting! After a long session on the wall, I was too late to make the last let-in time for the fantastic hostel facility in Moaness. I was hoping Fay would volunteer to open the hostel and let me leave money out for her, but sadly not, so it was a shivery night in the pier building for me. Some ridiculous sessions of aerobics every couple of hours through the night were required to keep the shivers at bay.Among other things, I took a couple of days to venture back onto Hoy by myself to spend a couple of sessions on the crux pitch of the Longhope project. I had underestimated how dialled I had it when I was having sessions last summer and the effect of one or two of the smallest holds wearing down a tiny bit and just tipping the difficulty in the upward direction. The pitch is definitely feeling like F8c. I feel like I have to be climbing at least ‘90%’ to redpoint 8c. What I’m not sure about is if I can walk in and climb 420 metres of pitches up to there and still feel 90%? The two other big problems with getting this route done are the temperature and the bloody birds. I hoped that by now summer might have edged up as far as Orkney, but yesterday I was still climbing in full winter mountaineering clothing and duvet jacket with completely numb hands in the relentless wind. On the crux 50 metre pitch, there is good gear most of the way apart from a long runout early in the pitch up to a break with a hole in it. Most unfortunately, a fulmar is poised right in the back of the hole ready to puke it’s grim stomach contents right into my face right as I would take a 70 foot fall with some nasty ledges within clipping distance. The next gear is a long reach off the hole (the break is too sandy and rounded to take anything else).So there are still fitness and timing problems to solve. But at least good links have been done and I can get on with rounding off my fitness on some big mountain trad days in anticipation of my nest Hoy venture, whenever summer arrives there?
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8965561920120295489?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JOcyfdwZeqA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Interview in Gory magazine (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/29-JetXLHpA/interview-in-gory-magazine.html)
14 June 2010, 1:46 pm
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Couple of pics from an interview in Gory magazine (Polish) this month. It was good fun taking all these shots in different kit in the studio with Lukasz. (http://lukaszwarzecha.blogspot.com/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5737951358831032553?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/29-JetXLHpA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Cloud Mist Rain Drizzle Fog and bird poo (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/YZOzFQRLVJE/cloud-mist-rain-drizzle-fog-and-bird.html)
27 June 2010, 10:17 am
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Michael and myself on the Longhope route, just before the cloud and rain ended the day’s play.The crux pitch linked, I headed back to Hoy with Michael, Claire and Diff for a shot at a redpoint of the route. Time was limited, and weather and work appointments gave us one chance. The day before I walked in with Diff and we rigged ropes out in space above the crux pitch, coming in a various angles to get stable for filming. Before we left, the rain came out of nowhere and we sat in the shelter of a cave before walking out, with the sinking feeling in my head that the sea-salt encrusted cliff would be absorbing all the dampness and conditions would be too poor for the 8c pitch.Nonetheless, we set off early from our doss the next morning into rain to have a look. It was still raining at the foot of the route three hours later. But we sucked it up and started going up pitches. Michael was doused in bile twice by the evil fulmars, myself only once, but the grim yellow slime ran down my neck as I wobbled onto a ledge. Things kinda went from bad to worse. A belay on an arete in the wind had my teeth chattering once again and higher, while having an discussion with a razorbill stood on my thread runner on the vile crack pitch, I noticed the clouds overhead dropping. They were whizzing over the top of the wall, and quickly obscured the top 100 metres of the wall. The damp air had turned the thick coating of lichen covering the vile crack into viscous goo, adding a tinge of green to the yellow fulmar bile already spread over my clothes. The writing was on the wall.As we made our abseils, the sight of Diff 300 metres above spinning in a whirlwind of mist and space above us as he stripped the filming ropes was quite a sight.Timing good conditions, partners and the fitness needed for this climb is damn hard to pull off. Back to the waiting, and training game.
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Michael, still looking cheery after a long day
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Claire feeling the chill after 8 hours on the edge of the cliff in a gale, filming our ‘progress’.
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Diff - it was this big?Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9010782332917380752?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/YZOzFQRLVJE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Indian Face (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ttGqnF1lwrc/indian-face.html)
29 June 2010, 11:57 pm
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“It’s just a bit of rock”. Tying in to lead The Indian FaceYesterday, I climbed the Indian Face. After a couple of sessions on it last week on a flying visit with Claire, I was eager to go back and get it led. So this weekend Claire and I started the long drive south again, gathering Diff and Tom on the way to film the deed for a wee film we’re thinking of making together.On the way, the forecast got worse, the crag was covered in clouds and the rain started as I was abseiling down the wall to chalk the holds. I took this as a negative sign. However, the burst of rain eased back to spits and spots and this teasing as I uncoiled ropes and briefed Claire of the flight plan saved me from the nerves of anticipation.A hurried tie in and go was much better that a drawn out moment of commitment. I stopped briefly at the top of the arch 10 metres up to guess if the leaden sky would give me another 20 minutes and then started into the groove, talking to myself (inwardly) about why I was there. The distraction resulted in a left foot that wouldn’t stop rolling off a smear while I fiddled with tiny RPs on big screamers. I stopped, spreadeagled and rested my toes alternately. That was nice; After 10 minutes on the wall I finally stopped reminding myself to be scared, and accepted that I wasn’t scared and should start thinking about the climbing instead.The next bit up to the good hold before the crux went much better. Stood there I tried to feel the aura of the route to tell myself I shouldn’t be there. But after a few minutes I still wasn’t scared and felt I ought to be getting moving on sore feet. I looked down. Claire was yawning. I felt thirsty, and noticed a fly buzz past. Time to go.I was tight, aggressive and ready for trouble moving through the crux bulge, but it didn’t come and I woke up three moves from the jug with lost concentration and a misplaced foot on a smear. On a move left I felt both ropes swinging below, unhindered by runners. Get the jug!I only had time to let Claire know I was holding the jug when the announcement came back that the rain had arrived. A speed climb up the final corners landed me in the wet grass ledge just in time to avoid a rescue epic. A miserable wet trudge down the hill for everyone was a reminder of how lucky and privileged I was to have the opportunity to be here.This morning we spent a nice morning chatting to Johnny Dawes in Pete’s Eats about our feelings about the climb, and bold rock climbing in general. I can’t wait to read Johnny’s book when he finishes it. What a talented and creative guy!
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Doing the business. Diff on the rope filming.
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Claire MacLeod - not fussed by belaying Indian Face whatsoever, apart from that it meant getting soaked to the skin and freezing cold.
Coming Back
I had previously had a play on the Indian Face in 2007 but in the end decided to do something else on that trip. It was quite interesting for me to do that, and also afterwards to experience a lot of questions from people at lectures and comments etc.I decided not to lead Indian Face on that visit for a few separate reasons. First of all, a hold snapped on me while toproping it which made me acutely aware of an objective danger issue not under my control. As routes go, it’s really quite solid and lovely rock to climb. But the small crimpy flakes do occasionally snap. In one way maybe I was unlucky that one snapped on me but I was certainly happy it happened while not leading! So I worried about this at the time. One particular foothold in particular worried me. But it turned out I had gone slightly too far right near the crux and after watching Alun Hughes’ Indian Face film realised I didn’t need to go to that hold.The other reason was that my feet are, in general, very weak and I seem to suffer more than most from foot cramp and always have a painful first month of the trad season. That spring I’d been working on the first ascents of Metalcore 8c+ at the Anvil until late May so had been doing nothing but dangling from roofs. My feet were bloody killing me on Indian Face. So I figured a trip later in the trad season would be a better idea (which I never got round to). The third reason was a bit more subconscious and not necessarily about the Indian Face. I’d just had a year in which things had changed a lot for me, I’d just opened the first E11, repeated two E10 graded routes, done my first 8c+ and gone from beavering away by myself on these projects to talking about them to hundreds of people on lecture tours. I got a bit worried about all this. I worried that I might not be able to keep in tune with the inner voice that keeps you safe and making good decisions on cliffs and routes without much gear. Whether I had anything real to worry about or not is irrelevant, the point is it’s a healthy thing to think if you spend your life sketching about a long way above gear. I thought it would be a good idea to see if I could be a bit more relaxed about climbing routes and be able to just walk away and leave them. My concern was that I might slip into an unthinking routine of doing one after another, without taking time to reflect, and in so doing, walk blindly into a climbing accident. So my decision was to leave Indian Face alone until further notice. Further notice arrived last week after some dry weather and a month of doing a lot of trad on my weak old toes. So I went back down and did it. All of this is no big deal, is it?But my surprise was that folk didn’t seem to quite get the difference between trying a route like Indian Face and project at the limit of today’s standard. Even though Indian Face was at the time 2 grades below the maximum level of trad climbing (and now even more), it still kills you if you break a hold, or just make a mistake and fall off it. To climb very poorly protected trad, whether it’s VS or E12, you have to respect the fact that you might get killed doing it. I mean, properly respect it.The harder the route, the smaller the margin for error, and the more important it is to be completely full of inspiration, focus and love for that route. To be worth it, it’s got to be damn important to you. On a route like Echo Wall, it had a high level of personal meaning for me in lots of ways. So I was willing to increase my level of acceptable risk. Indian Face is a lovely route, but it doesn’t hold that level of meaning for me. So it just didn’t make sense to do it with unfit toes and not enough time to work a sequence around the worrying looking foothold. I spent the last day of the trip doing Trauma instead.I’d totally recommend this process of deliberately breaking your routine of doing anything that’s risky once in a while, so you can step back and be sure you’re having a clear conversation with yourself about that risk. If people taunt you for ‘bottling it’ in a macho and idiotic manner, all the more reason to hold off until the absolutely correct moment comes around.
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Tom (http://www.tomkirby.net/) and Diff (http://hotaches.blogspot.com/), ready to head back to Pete’sGradesThis spring has been good for injecting some sanity into the comparison between the hardest trad routes. I know I didn’t help much by not bothering to grade Echo Wall, but then it was hard for me to find a good comparison, and still is. I’d concur with Johnny’s original grade (in the scan from the new routes book in the Cloggy guide) of soft E9. In it’s time (the 80s) it was I’m certain the hardest trad route in the world until Dave Birkett put up If Six Was Nine in 1992, which is probably half an E grade harder, just as serious and much more demanding of fitness. ISWN is the benchmark E9 in my opinion. Holdfast is nearly a full grade harder than Indian Face. And it was great to see Dave B repeat The Walk of Life, confirming it at E9 and that there is actually some method in the grading system.Things have come quite a long way since Indian Face in trad. The hardest route I’ve done, Echo Wall, is either two, or three E grades harder, I can’t really decide. But a direct comparison between them is kind of silly; Echo Wall is about 8c (IF is 7b+) and has poorer protection than Indian Face and is considerably harder to spend any time trying. The experience of climbing both routes could not be more different. After about 15 climbing sessions and I only ever linked Echo Wall on a toprope twice. I think the only time I ever actually fell while working Indian Face was when the hold snapped. Predicting the chances of survival in a fall from poorly protected routes is a highly dubious game. Let me tell you that falling off either route is a seriously bad idea. But if I had to choose I’d rate my chances a lot higher falling off Indian Face onto those RPs than onto the nuts in that wobbly tooth under the Echo Wall roof.It might seem laboured reading all these details about the grades - it feels like that writing about it too. But the myth about the difficulty of Indian Face has built up to an embarrassing level. As Dawes said to me this morning - “There is so much bullshit written about that route, you would think a Welsh dragon is going to swoop in and get you at the crux”.
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Great Wall after the rain came. Thank god I didn’t hang about any longer before leading...When I’m back in Lochaber, I’ll post up some video stills from the ascent. If you are psyched to see the footage, I’m sure you will later in the year. Thanks to Claire for suffering another singleminded mission to the other end of the UK, a minging sodden trudge down Snowdon in the rain and for saying “It’s just a bit of rock, get it led”.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1611333567248179364?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ttGqnF1lwrc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Video stills from Indian Face (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/5Yeck-KY-Ts/video-stills-from-indian-face.html)
2 July 2010, 12:03 am
I just got home from Wales after a stop off in Glasgow. Man it’s good to be in my own house after three weeks almost continuously on the road around the UK. Here are a few video stills from our footage of Indian Face.
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Micro stopper ready for a quickfire placement. I placed all the gear on lead (goes without saying these days I know, but a few folk are still pre-placing) and getting the RPs seated perfectly and quickly in their placements was one of the biggest elements to prepare for. The route is definitely a tiny bit safer now Black Diamond’s micro stoppers have a much higher breaking strength. My dad’s jewellery files came in handy for filing the micros down to fit the placements just right.
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Starting nervously up the hard climbing, not really finding my focus just yet.
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Lovely piece of wall, eh?
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Resting tired feet at the good hold.
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A nasty barn door move, mid crux section. Dawes swapped feet for this move and so could move the left hand in balance. I felt the foot swap was a bit awkward and had potential for a mistake, so did it this way. But I was worried an easterly wind during the move might make the move impossible. It was westerly, so it was no problem.
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About to start the crux. Photo: Tom KirbyDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3828112511221632173?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/5Yeck-KY-Ts)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Back to the real work (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/cz37D6mmN0Y/back-to-real-work.html)
6 July 2010, 11:19 am
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Richard on Clean Sweep, VS, Hell’s LumAfter the wee holiday in Wales and Glasgow I felt rested up and keen to get back to another stint of training for my projects for the summer. All of them are big multipitch mountain routes that have F8 pitches, bold and in seriously awkward places to get to. The fitter I am, the better.So I have been trying to get out to the crag every day over the past week and work myself a bit harder. These pics are from a morning on Hell’s Lum with Richard. We drove over and scooted up Clean Sweep before lunch. The plan was to head over for a climb or two on Shelterstone for the afternoon, but the showers swept in, so I wandered about on an E5 at Creag dubh instead, getting lost (I’ve somewhat forgotten how to read a guidebook).Since then, I’ve been cleaning, bolting and trying various cool routes. Or at least the bits of them that are still dry.Shortly I’m heading over to Harris to begin preparations for attempting a line on Sron Ulladail for the Great Climb programme on Aug 28th. We’ve got to climb a 5-6 pitch route with a very high E-number, on live telly in 5 or 6 hours. So a week of walking in and climbing on the cliff each day will be essential training and learning for the big day.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN65NhmGI/AAAAAAAACTY/lGkEIsjGR1w/s400/IMG_0757.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN65NhmGI/AAAAAAAACTY/lGkEIsjGR1w/s1600/IMG_0757.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN8oTRfbI/AAAAAAAACTg/uWDUo5jZ93U/s400/IMG_0770.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN8oTRfbI/AAAAAAAACTg/uWDUo5jZ93U/s1600/IMG_0770.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN-LVCgjI/AAAAAAAACTo/Jx7M06Kly4o/s400/IMG_0772.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TDMN-LVCgjI/AAAAAAAACTo/Jx7M06Kly4o/s1600/IMG_0772.jpg)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2252665564941166322?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/cz37D6mmN0Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Sron Uladail 1, Dave nil (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/J_3734r5ZUc/sron-uladail-1-dave-nil.html)
20 July 2010, 9:31 pm
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I’ve just done my first climbing session in 8 days after a week long trip to Sron Ulladale. The session was back home on my board! There’s nothing worse than moany blogs and I do try not to post too often about the many many failures I have trying to make Scottish new routes come into existence. But as Claire and I agreed the other day (day 4 of sitting in the car watching the horizontal rain), people often don’t know what goes into opening new hard trad routes in the mountains.I’ve been to the outer Hebrides nearly every year for a decade, on most of those trips, climbing in the mountains of Harris, namely Sron Uladail, has been ‘plan A’. On all but one trip, plan A has lasted less than 10 minutes off the Harris ferry and we left the Harris mountains to their lashing by wind and rain and headed for the relative shelter of the Lewis sea cliffs. Although serendipitous, I’ve found many of my favourite places to climb there and the sea cliffs never felt like a plan B once I was there.This time it was the Sron or nothing - I had a job to do. The brief: find a good, preferably hard and unclimbed route on Sron Uladail that myself and Tim Emmett can climb in under 6 hours on live television and get it cleaned. Easier said than done.Having studied my crag shots, I did the big load carry from Ahmunsuidhe and abseiled over the big drop armed with a 600 foot rope, brush and a lot of hardware, just before the rain started. My first choice line was seeping copious drools of water from the back of the roof and was out of the question from the word go. Hmmm, what now? I hauled up the line, fed it all back into the bag, moved 30m left and repeat. Option 2 had no protection and being 35 degrees overhanging for a couple of pitches would be nearly impossible to clean and inspect. By day 3 I was at option 5 and still at square 1. The live TV issue kind of dictates having at least a fighting chance of getting to the top on the chosen route. For me, anything harder than about E9/10 always involves a remote chance of success for any given attempt. Sure, the ultimate chances of success across many days and weeks of attempts rise to something sporting, but on this occasion we have 1 day, 6 hours to make it happen. It wouldn’t be such a big deal if the crag wasn’t so overhanging or so ravaged by the elements. I could absorb more of the potential problems through preparation.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYR7thLg0I/AAAAAAAACUA/T1d4feU1gv4/s320/IMG_0833.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYR7thLg0I/AAAAAAAACUA/T1d4feU1gv4/s1600/IMG_0833.jpg)
I was determined not to leave Harris no further forward, so after two days of torrential rain and wind I jogged in as fast as I could in a brief lull in the storm to check out another potential line, some grossly overhanging blank grooves left of the Scoop. As soon as I’d dropped the ropes and headed off down over the first overhangs I found to my dismay that the brief lull was just as the storm readjusted to a westerly, blowing straight across the crag. Pretty soon I was having a right gripper. The tail ends of 3 or 400 feet of my two static ropes that had been hanging below me were now blowing in great arcs horizontally in space despite being sodden from the rain and very heavy. As the wind rose and rose I realised it could get dangerous to be on the wall quite rapidly switched to ‘escape’ mode. Plan A was to continue back-aiding down through the roofs until I could be sure the ropes would reach the slopes far below and then bail to the cliff base. But it became obvious that even with my weight on them in a free abseil the ropes and me would be blown out away from the slope and If I attempted to go down the rope I’d probably suffer a very spinny-dizzy death being tossed around on the rope ends. So I went back up.I was terrified the wind would get so strong that things would start to get out of hand - being thrown around on ropes running across crystal sharp rock edges. Every time I released a piece of gear I was thrown sideways into space by the wind, with the sickening sound of ropes scraping along overlaps above. I learned to jumar up rope a lot faster! As the pro-golfers over at St-Andrews bailed back to the clubhouse for a beer due to the high winds, I flopped over onto ledges in a waterfall and hauled up the sodden ropes, cursing the Scottish weather as I staggered off along the ridge to Ullaval into the gale.The rest of the week alternated between long hours in the car watching the rain, or long hours of the above dangling in it. The upshot was that I have still to settle on an ideal line to attempt. Here’s to the next trip going a little better!In the meantime, I’ll be trying to gain back the fitness lost on my ‘climbing’ trip...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYR5qGloFI/AAAAAAAACT4/lzeB2nzKTA4/s400/IMG_0819.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYR5qGloFI/AAAAAAAACT4/lzeB2nzKTA4/s1600/IMG_0819.jpg)
The lovely outlook from the Sron on the good day - It’s amazing how transformed the Hebrides are in nice weather. More so than other parts of Scotland I think.
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An ancient wire battered in by aid climbers 40 odd years ago. I removed this relic (it practically turned to dust in my hands). There wasn’t really a placement for in the seam - I think that fear, a strong arm and a good hammer had a lot to do with it!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYSAucP16I/AAAAAAAACUQ/qOs2t_w-Voo/s400/IMG_0847.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYSAucP16I/AAAAAAAACUQ/qOs2t_w-Voo/s1600/IMG_0847.jpg)
4 days of the same view
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYSEVFq1SI/AAAAAAAACUY/bikFPZQLkTI/s400/IMG_0158.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TEYSEVFq1SI/AAAAAAAACUY/bikFPZQLkTI/s1600/IMG_0158.jpg)
I thought I was being paranoid about the sharp overlaps of sheared quartz and gneiss until the slightest glance of my hand along one gave me a 4cm gash.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-936276530398172361?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/J_3734r5ZUc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Week of progress (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TKvAodyEBNo/week-of-progress.html)
1 August 2010, 1:26 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TFV1U0Bb24I/AAAAAAAACU4/jWWTeBDXW2k/s400/IMG_0798.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TFV1U0Bb24I/AAAAAAAACU4/jWWTeBDXW2k/s1600/IMG_0798.jpg)
The past week has been a frantic effort to catch up on everything before I head back to Harris for round two with the Sron and the Atlantic low pressures. I have trained, mostly after midnight. I have amassed large quantities of research material for my injuries book to add to the already large pile. At least the ‘read’ pile is larger than the ‘unread’! Among other things I have visited family, built a bathroom, oh yeah, and trained some more.Right now I’m about 95% of my best bouldering strength, which is good news since I haven't been bouldering for months and generally been wobbling about on big mountain crags or dangling about on Sron Uladail in the rain. I’m feeling close to a wee ‘performance peak’ right now. I have that feeling of of everything in my body working as it should, responding to the training and I’m moving with good confidence and momentum.All that’s needed is an opportunity to unleash this on a Scottish rock project. Always the rate-limiting step. The forecast for next week’s trip to the Sron is dire once again. I’m preying for at least one day of rest from the north-westerlies so I can get the big rope rigged and get a look at the ever-dry lower half of the wall.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7796006710692333870?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/TKvAodyEBNo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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News and new stuff (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PYc5it9Qzd0/news-and-new-stuff.html)
2 August 2010, 11:21 pm
Before I head to Harris in the morning for round 2 with Sron Uladail, here is a wee update from my webshop. (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/CrackoholicDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/crackoholic.html)We’ve just added the Crackoholic DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/crackoholic.html) which is just out from Sweden. You might not know about it until now, but Sweden has some world class granite trad crags I’d heard a lot about but not seen anything of. This DVD shows off the areas best and hardest routes. I’ll put up a full review shortly, but for now let me say it’s a pretty inspiring piece of climbing footage. Put it this way, it was enough to put it firmly on my hitlist as a place I’m going climbing in the near future. Trailer below and the DVD is here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/crackoholic.html)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Scottish-Climbing-Yearbook.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Scottish-Climbing-Yearbook.jpg)
Apart from the Gorilla T-shirts and hoodies mentioned in my other post, I’ve also halved the price of The Scottish Climbing Yearbook to £3.50.(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TFdRKyfQmxI/AAAAAAAACVA/8W_oSONKFYs/s320/gore+logo.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TFdRKyfQmxI/AAAAAAAACVA/8W_oSONKFYs/s1600/gore+logo.jpg)My colleagues at Gore are running a comp right now - They are offering places on some pretty nice trips with the various Gore athletes. First up this month is a trip to the spires of Krgystan with Ines Papert. Not bad for a prize I think! Over the next few months there are trips with Robert Jasper and various others up for grabs. The details are on facebook here (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts?ref=mf) if that sounds good.I need to come up with a plan for what my own prize trip will be. Please help me decide - drop me a comment. So far the ideas on the table are new routing in the Scottish North West/Isles or a training camp at home or abroad somewhere. What do you reckon?It’s been a while since I’ve been on the road lecturing, but two dates in the diary are lectures at the new wall in Milton Keynes (http://bigrockclimbing.blogspot.com/) on Sept 18th and High Sports (http://www.highsports.co.uk/) in Shrewsbury on January 4th.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3117447149968313645?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PYc5it9Qzd0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Gorilla T-shirts are here (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/V5IE9cK3BOk/gorilla-t-shirts-are-here.html)
2 August 2010, 11:35 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/gorillateebig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing)
Ever since my book 9 out of 10 climbers… (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html) came out, many of you emailed or commented asking when we were doing a T-shirt of the now famous fed up Gorilla from the cover. It took us some time, as these things do. But now they are here!We sourced excellent quality and cut T-shirts and hoodies from the American Apparel (http://americanapparel.net/) label. They were a little more expensive, being a quality brand and made in Los Angeles, but worth it we think. The printing was done right here in Lochaber.We’ve done a Gorilla T-shirt (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/gorillatee.html), Gorilla Hoodie (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/gorillahoodie.html) and a Rare Breed T-shirt (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rarebreedtee.html). The T-shirts are £15 and the hoodies are £35. All come in unisex small, medium, large and XL with size charts on their shop pages to make sure you get the correct size, male or female. We produced a fairly limited run, so get them in if you fancy one. If they disappear fast, we might make some more.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/rarebreedteebig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/gorillahoodiebig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing)
They are available in the shop now, here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2542307417407366197?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/V5IE9cK3BOk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Crackoholic & Core DVD review (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/YEcP9_bR6aM/crackoholic-core-dvd-review.html)
8 August 2010, 1:55 pm
Crackoholic(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/CrackoholicDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/crackoholic.html)Thanks to this DVD, I will soon be going to Sweden to climb granite. Wow! I live in a place surrounded by brilliant climbing, so although I love seeing film of new climbing venues, it has to really stand out these days to make me sit up and say “I HAVE to go there!”. Crackoholic sold me instantly on it’s stunning looking granite crags, idyllic setting and even more idyllic climbing scene. A lot of climbing DVD’s tend to focus on the single-minded determination of one climber on their project, or the American style bouldering with Hip Hop and very loud spotters. Great, but there is obviously more to climbing than just this. I don’t like much Hip Hop, or very loud spotters (spotters at the places I boulder generally only say ‘baaaa’ once in a while’). So it was great to see a climbing film that drew us back to all the other great things about climbing - mental control, relationships and inspirations flowing between climbers. And somewhere different!Not limestone, not bolts. A great film about trad climbing. Everything about Crackoholic just made me want to be out cragging. Perhaps it’s something I’ve missed because I’ve spent the last three years dragging myself to remote mountain crags with arduous logistics for long and lonely adventures. This film brought back to me the sheer joy of just going cragging. Stepping out of the car and straight onto the rocks. Maybe it was the idyllic setting, the entertaining characters in the film (the locals of Bohuslan in Sweden, together with footage of Leo Holding on Savage Horse E9 6c, Neil Gresham and other visitors).Every shot seems to be in a golden sunset with crisp orange granite. Are there really so many sunsets like that? No wonder the climbers in the film look so happy! The tour of the area’s best trad routes and history was surprisingly interesting for a non-local and certainly would show off the routes to climbers not going there for the hardest climbs. Not to mention the cottages right under the cliffs, the barbeques between redpoints, and did I mention the sunsets? But I was obviously really interested to see the hard routes. For a start the DVD is a bit of a misnomer, there seems to be more bold face cliimbing and skyhooks in evidence than taped up hands and big cams. Minaret E8 6c looks like one of the finest grit-style aretes anywhere. And the footage of the falls and successes of the two young guys that do it was interesting and dramatic. The ‘main man’ Stefan Wulf looks like he is enjoying Savage Horse E9 for vary different reasons to Leo, who looks in his element of his trademark ‘skin of the teeth’ style, missing edges, falling backwards but staying on. This and various other E8s are all superb stuff and duly noted in my list of ‘must climb that someday soon’.Need I say more - If you are a trad climber and you didn’t enjoy watching Crackholic, I’d be stumped as to why not. Copies are in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/crackoholic.html)Core(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/coredvd.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/core.html)Like ‘Progression’ but with more edge. In recent years when it comes to bouldering/sport climbing movies coming out of America (but showcasing the finest destinations for climbing on the globe), there has been ‘Big Up’, and everything else. Big Up do the most famous climbers, the very hardest routes (even if they are still projects) and whatever creates the strongest desire to get out there and ‘send’ in the viewer. In the ‘everything else category, there is great variability. There are have been some awful bouldering films. And I get the feeling folk will be wary of them and stick to ‘Big Up’ or more recently the Sender Films because they have well earned reputation in this genre.If you like this type of film, but you are one of the ones who might be wary, you would be missing out in not seeing Core. Chuck Fryberger has produced a film with just as high quality shooting, with an edge that Big Up might be getting too ‘mass’ to pull off now. It’s clearly not such a big production as something like Progression and centres around a handful of destinations. But almost all are good. The ‘edge’ goes a bit far for me at times, and it takes a good few minutes into the film to get amongst the action. But the rest of the film was fairly well packed with great climbing.The stars are mostly world class and certainly look it on the rock as well as being interesting characters. The section with Nalle Hukkataival is fun and impressive to watch his display of ‘next generation’ power. He also has a fine ‘elbows out’ moment of pumping, scared and desperately slapping before lobbing off from 8 metres up. Illuminating. But he had just climbed 8 metres of Font 8c to get there! There are several other well known climbers who it was nice to finally see some footage of. Kilian Fischuber looked every inch the great athlete he is and Michele Caminati was a pleasure to watch of the rock. Born to climb is the word. Fred Nicole was the highlight for me - I’d love to see more of his climbing on film, not to mention the man himself. He always seems to draw the sport of climbing back to its simple, pure and satisfying form. A great person to be able to feel you can relate to if you live ‘off the beaten track’ of the climbing scene.The contrasts between the simple movement of Fred’s ungraded but obvious nails roof, and the style of the rest of the film with shades, Ferrari’s, foot off dynos and nice beats could have been plain weird. But it works! Definitely on the pile of rest day DVDs for the next sport climbing trip…Still got some copies left in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/core.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1155874508821283359?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/YEcP9_bR6aM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A turnaround of fortunes on Harris (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SPgJ3AOhFdk/turnaround-of-fortunes-on-harris.html)
8 August 2010, 2:19 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64j_6Ul0I/AAAAAAAACVI/aa4_ul3zBJI/s400/IMG_0918.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64j_6Ul0I/AAAAAAAACVI/aa4_ul3zBJI/s1600/IMG_0918.jpg)
My world for the last 5 days - the overhanging landscape of spiky rock on Sron UladailJust back from another intense week of preparations for The Great Climb on the 28th on Harris. After the Skye Pipe Band gave us an entertaining ride back across the minch on the Calmac, I drove back to Lochaber like a zombie and crawled into bed.I have a route to attempt! The most overhanging section of the entire cliff proved the exception to the rule that I’d encountered so far. Every other line I’d looked at worked apart from short sections that were blank, loose or wet. From a previous abseil from the top of the cliff, looking in from a distance I thought a 12 foot section on theses overhangs also looked devoid of holds. But it was so steep I needed to come back with more gear to back-aid across the roofs to get a closer look.When I did just that on Monday I couldn’t believe my eyes! A line of fingertip flakes and slopers leading out across the big roof to gain the next flake system. The line reminds me of the famous Spanish route Kalea Borroka in Siurana, but even steeper! It’s going to be a mind-boggling adventure climbing this thing. I really can’t wait for the 28th. Pitch 1 looks like the best pitch of E7 I’ve seen anywhere. After a hanging belay, the very first move of pitch 2 is the hardest of the entire route. I could only do the move one out of four tries. But it’s just a very long reach at 50 degrees overhanging. That’s pretty much the same angle as my board (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1bj-cldkOs) so I’ll make a model of the crux section to train on. After that it’s more hard bloc across the roof to get the next flake system and a spectacular climb up these in the most exposed position imaginable. I’m not sure yet but this pitch seems like it will be hard E8 or maybe into E9. After that there are three more E6 and E7 pitches through more spectacular terrain. So it was a turnaround of fortunes compared to the last trip. No doubt it wont be the last. But such is adventure climbing!(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64loOLfCI/AAAAAAAACVQ/VMluhKcvL7U/s400/IMG_0897.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64loOLfCI/AAAAAAAACVQ/VMluhKcvL7U/s1600/IMG_0897.jpg)
Brian Hall begins the highly skilled job of working out logistics to get a sizeable team of climbing cameramen onto the most overhanging cliff in the British Isles.(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64mzaYJpI/AAAAAAAACVY/_pRwaiwPGAk/s400/IMG_0895.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64mzaYJpI/AAAAAAAACVY/_pRwaiwPGAk/s1600/IMG_0895.jpg)
Brian follows me down my lines. This is one of the least steep parts of the route, but you can see from the other rope hanging free why it’s difficult to clean and remove loose rock from 600 feet of cliff this steep. In other climbing meccas around the world, bolts would be considered the only way to do this without a major epic. Being British, we opt for the major epic.(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64o1VBkZI/AAAAAAAACVg/TNsxTsMjWtw/s400/IMG_0890.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64o1VBkZI/AAAAAAAACVg/TNsxTsMjWtw/s1600/IMG_0890.jpg)
My rope snaking through the overhangs gives you an idea of the terrain I hope we can climb on the day. (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64qvgBgQI/AAAAAAAACVo/uC7e1vSJRxs/s400/IMG_0934.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TF64qvgBgQI/AAAAAAAACVo/uC7e1vSJRxs/s1600/IMG_0934.jpg)
Old fixed gear I removed from the cliff last week which marks the battles, successes and failures of climbers past. The owners of this gear would read like a who’s who of adventure trad climbers of the past few decades!...So now I have a week or so to squeeze in more training before the whole team Rendezvous on Harris for the week leading up to the live broadcast. I think it will be a good show.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6343727015133335094?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SPgJ3AOhFdk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Stressed about stress (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Ky5ML8QycBI/stressed-about-stress.html)
11 August 2010, 1:04 am
Being stressed about stress is a modern privilege, but that doesn't mean we shouldn't pay attention. I was just looking at an interesting article on Wired (http://www.wired.com/magazine/2010/07/ff_stress_cure/all/1) about stress and where the research is at right now. The idea in the article about vaccinating against it sometime in the future will certainly raise eyebrows for lots of reasons, but aside from that it’s an interesting toe dip in a field that’s pertinent for just about who wants to live and live long (or indeed for those who don’t!).Interesting to note that the field has moved on from seeing stress as directly causative of many health problems and more as an agent that amplifies their effects. The article is worth reading for the interesting points about linking social conditions to your sensitivity to stress. But I just wanted to highlight the section on the research supported stress reducers that concur quite well with the data coming from the field (see Richard Layard’s great book (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0141016906?ie=UTF8&tag=davemacleod-21&linkCode=as2&camp=1634&creative=6738&creativeASIN=0141016906) for a similar discussion, but focused on happiness).The more general or background stress buffers like having a good social network, getting good quality sleep and not piling on physiological stress with an alcohol habit (thought it was a stress reducer? - it aint!) seem fairly straightforward. But some of the others are less so. The ability to detach from frustration and anger is an important stress reducer, as is confronting particular aspects of your tasks that cause fear.This illuminates the rather complex nature of some of the stress influencing variables. So called ‘high-powered’ executives with full-on jobs complain of a lot of stress from their occupations, but only sometimes show the physiological evidence of it. The feeling of having some control over your task outcomes seems to be one of the crucial elements here. The feeling of the solutions being out of your hands, and worst of all, in someone else's, is one of the biggest stressors. It’s a state of mind that seems to come from our backgrounds, and sadly is very hard to shake.As always I look with an interested eye for applications in sport psychology and behavioural aspects that determine sport success or progress. My own failures in climbing are largely down to a flawed ability to let go of things and also to get some sleep. The sleep thing is fairly simple, a combination of a tendency to feel awake and motivated when my body should be winding down (like now, writing at 2am) and too many interests and a poor ability to sacrifice some for the benefit of others. While I’m good at detaching from anger and frustration when I sense a lost cause, I’m terrible at it when I have a hunch that it’s not. There are lots of paradoxes here. Both attributes are absolutely my key strengths in my various interests. They get things done where it would be easy to run out of steam. This was what the film E11 was about. But in the longer term they are also my key weaknesses and caps to building ability in something such as climbing to a really high level.While these problems have caused me some quite serious issues at times, on the whole I’m talking the more gentle depressive effects of avoidable stressors on maximising response to training, psychological or physical. Just the very fact that you are able to sit at a computer reading these words, on this blog which is often focused on leisure pastimes shows that a lot of us are privileged enough to be concerning ourselves with maximising the fulfillment in life, as opposed to just surviving. In this game we often have a lot of the basics in place. The difference in how far we get in our climbing or whatever endeavor is likely to come down to the cumulative effect over years of small errors made by habit. Another complicating factor is that eustress and distress can exist fairly close together - just being a difference of amplitude on the same axis. Do something a little bit too much or to little and the benefit transforms into a menace.Trying to raise your sporting level above amateur into competent or above is concerned with energetically teasing out these errors which are so hard to stand back and see. Your friends will often know what they are, but they’d never tell you. They are your friends after all. And even if you asked them to hit you with it straight they might give you an insight. But to break habits you need reminding, over and over.A lot of our society is geared up to get us in the habit of following behaviours of surprising diversity that end up stressing us. This area is the battle ground for sports psychology over the coming years.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5102962151573639301?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Ky5ML8QycBI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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See you on the box, next week (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/_pyGKHVzZdc/in-couple-of-hours-im-leaving-for-sron.html)
21 August 2010, 12:37 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TG8evPYArvI/AAAAAAAACVw/LMOV3KLKjyY/s400/Dave+MacLeod+on+Sron+Ulladale.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TG8evPYArvI/AAAAAAAACVw/LMOV3KLKjyY/s1600/Dave+MacLeod+on+Sron+Ulladale.jpg)
In a couple of hours, I’m leaving for Sron Uladail once more to begin the final prep leading up to our live climb. I haven’t been to bed yet, and that is looking a more distant possibility by the minute - too much work to try and finish before I go! I can’t do it all. So it’ll be a sleepy shift on the cliff tomorrow. I do hope the weather gods will provide us with a friendly day and myself and Tim can provide you with an entertaining adventure to watch on Saturday 28th.I have an update on the broadcast times, they are:Saturday 28th August:BBC2 Scotland and Sky channel 990 1.30pm-7pmBBC HD channel 5pm-7pmStreamed live on the BBC websiteAvailable for viewing on BBC iplayerEnjoy!I wouldn’t say my preparation has gone perfectly, the wettest July in Scotland for a decade hasn’t helped get the hours in on rock in recent weeks. But I did have an amazing session on my climbing board last night, managing nearly all my hardest links and completing a long term project with ease. It’s nothing new that a mixed bag of training ends up producing great results. The variety might not be in the schedule, but is often better than a synthetic training plan. I have been bitten by a staggering amount of midges in recent weeks, which could be good training also, perhaps?Trying to keep up work on my injuries book and other work has been a right balancing act as well. To be honest, I think I need a week of hardcore battling with The Big Stone on Harris to stop me from going quite mad!See y’all on the 28th to watch the fight with the roofs of Sron.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2128789383666926201?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/_pyGKHVzZdc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Great Climb team get going (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9PGFRY7ITXY/great-climb-team-get-going.html)
22 August 2010, 5:55 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjjnnmR0I/AAAAAAAACV4/YusN1utR_-s/s400/P1000019.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjjnnmR0I/AAAAAAAACV4/YusN1utR_-s/s1600/P1000019.jpg)
Brian Hall and the team thrash out the rigging logisticsI’m just sitting in the Scaladale Centre on Harris listening to Brian Hall briefing the rigging team on the full horror of their task for the week ahead; rigging a km of rope on grossly overhanging ground on the Sron. They are going to have a mega adventure this week! Today though, is a tea drinking day. Nothing happens on Harris on a Sunday!The forecast, as ever, is diabolical. Yesterday, I was on the line myself. The upper two pitches had waterfalls coming down them and Brian and Rory were almost blown off their feet in the unseasonal storm force wind on the top of the wall. A helicopter is due to take all the outside broadcast equipment into the broadcast base camp. But the chances of the chopper being able to fly in the next two days is about big fat 0%. So it’ll all need to be carried instead. Ouch!(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjr3cPsDI/AAAAAAAACWA/lxtqTjzehlc/s400/P1000012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjr3cPsDI/AAAAAAAACWA/lxtqTjzehlc/s1600/P1000012.jpg)
The plumb line of the rope with haul bag tied to the end illustrate the angle of the route(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjyMhVeUI/AAAAAAAACWI/Gi6HuTktegw/s400/P1000013.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THFjyMhVeUI/AAAAAAAACWI/Gi6HuTktegw/s1600/P1000013.jpg)
Looking out from the foot of our proposed new route. The bag is hanging at least 80 feet out from the base!The team have no option but to rig tomorrow even though they’ll have to do it in a waterfall. All the ropes have to be in place by Wednesday for the 5 climbing cameramen to get on the ropes and start sussing their shots for Saturday.No doubt there will be some sore legs and stressed heads by tomorrow night. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9081682460710218939?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/9PGFRY7ITXY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A load of new shop products added (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/d_aWH8782jM/load-of-new-shop-products-added.html)
22 August 2010, 6:06 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/racingweight.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/racingweight.jpg)We’ve just added several new products to the shop. Most of them are to complete my selection of the best climbing performance skills books you can get hold of anywhere, but with one interesting and slightly different new title just out: Racing weight.‘Racing Weight: How to get lean for peak performance’ is the first book on the market covering weight optimisation for athletes, and hence is of great interest to climbers! It's actually aimed primarily at triathletes and other endurance athletes, but many of the nutritional concepts and tactics are directly applicable to climbing.It was just published last December and summarises the latest research in sports nutritional science relevant to weight dependent sports. However, although it refers directly to the science underpinning the advice, Matt Fitzgerald's experience as a serial author and magazine columnist in several running and triathlon magazines has helped him present the advice in an accessible format. Fascinating reading for any climber who needs to pay attention to weight optimisation (i.e. all of us!). I read it in a sitting - a more detailed review on the OCC blog coming sometime soon(ish).
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/rockclimbingskills.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/rockclimbingskills.jpg)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/winterskills.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/winterskills.jpg)Winter Skills and Rock climbing skills are the two definitive technical reference books for all the fundamental skills for moving safely and effectively on walls, crags and mountains. They were published a few years ago by the Mountain Leader Training Board UK and are pretty much essential reading for anyone who plans on a life of moving above big drops or under potential avalanches etc…(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/extremealpinism.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/extremealpinism.jpg)
In the icy-mixed department, I’ve added two of the most worshipped texts in this area - Will Gadd’s book Ice and Mixed Climbing and Mark Twight’s Extreme Alpinism. I say worshipped because so many budding winter warriors have not just learned the raw skills to hone their winter hardman credentials, but both have sealed the inspiration of many into the bargain.(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/ice&mixedclimbing.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/ice&mixedclimbing.jpg)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/sportclimbingplus.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/sportclimbingplus.jpg)
In the performance rock department I’ve added Adrian Berry and Steve McClure’s Sport Climbing Plus which is a nice accessible walk through all the fundamentals of sport climbing. You may find yourself walking up the odd 8a afterwards?
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-black.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-black.jpg)We also have the hard-to-get Mountain Equipment black beanies back in stock. Get em in before someone else buys them all before winter…In case you're wondering how your orders arrive at your door so soon after ordering despite me being off filming on Harris, it's because Claire dispatches orders each day, apart from Sunday, when the post office is shut. More of you have been using the Euro and US Dollar versions of my shop recently - Thanks, it’s made it worth the effort of constructing it (I’m a much better climber than a coder!). You'll find all of these in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4021177634037702648?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/d_aWH8782jM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Great climb trailer (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hro6cW2pfn0/great-climb-trailer.html)
24 August 2010, 11:59 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THOzY7ksqPI/AAAAAAAACWQ/mLU96I9yBQI/s400/Screen+shot+2010-08-24+at+12.41.48.png) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THOzY7ksqPI/AAAAAAAACWQ/mLU96I9yBQI/s1600/Screen+shot+2010-08-24+at+12.41.48.png)
Trailer for The Great Climb us up on the BBC site here. (http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/scotland/8938527.stm) Mostly shots of me falling off on the Triple 5 film (I fell off a lot on that trip). Thing have been kicking off here at Sron Ulladale, more on that later.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7633723226875902782?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/hro6cW2pfn0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Harris sunshine (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/o7E-yffE0pM/harris-sunshine.html)
25 August 2010, 9:22 am
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Improving conditions here on Harris. Waterfalls on the cliff are drying out a bit, and a bit of sunshine always lifts the spirits. However, there are no shortage of problems to deal with, for every part of the team. (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THTX9wnj0LI/AAAAAAAACWg/T-175fOFjN8/s400/P1000053.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THTX9wnj0LI/AAAAAAAACWg/T-175fOFjN8/s1600/P1000053.jpg)
Old reel of film we found at the foot of the cliff. Presumably belonging to Alun Hughes when he filmed his Strone Ulladale film in 1989 which is now on the 80’s DVD. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/birthofextreme.html)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THTYEv0-qmI/AAAAAAAACWo/Bw983_Jc6fQ/s400/P1000035.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THTYEv0-qmI/AAAAAAAACWo/Bw983_Jc6fQ/s1600/P1000035.jpg)
Sheep with it’s heid stuck in a gate, near Rhenigidale. I helped it out.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5933239048745293358?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/o7E-yffE0pM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Minor surgery (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/uQq8sjFVRTw/minor-surgery.html)
25 August 2010, 4:10 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THU__7ZuvuI/AAAAAAAACWw/PGCVtjF_dvA/s400/P1000032.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THU__7ZuvuI/AAAAAAAACWw/PGCVtjF_dvA/s1600/P1000032.jpg)
On Monday, while descending the lines after a session on the Sron, a breeze block sized flake at the belay 10 feet above me was levered off by an unusual direction of pull. It dropped straight onto my bare ankle, splitting it open in a 3cm gash down to the bone. After making the most of the rare opportunity to inspect my own skeleton, I abseiled down and started to hurt. 5 stitches later, I’m in less than perfect shape for climbing, or indeed anything right now.(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THVAJTd6m6I/AAAAAAAACXA/ClVysleyDVs/s400/P1000024.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THVAJTd6m6I/AAAAAAAACXA/ClVysleyDVs/s1600/P1000024.jpg)
Iain Peter wraps me up for the long walk out to the medical centre.Less than ideal. Nevertheless, it’s just a flesh wound as they say. A few stitches in one’s ankle shouldn’t bother one’s ability to climb a five pitch E8 on live telly, should it? So I’m doing nothing new but storing up energy (and ibuprofens) for the big day on Saturday.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1388513441956273686?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/uQq8sjFVRTw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Relief? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/4X-r2nWg3PQ/relief.html)
26 August 2010, 7:47 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THYcEtzcLdI/AAAAAAAACXI/9IxzWwlofUo/s320/Ibuprofen.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/THYcEtzcLdI/AAAAAAAACXI/9IxzWwlofUo/s1600/Ibuprofen.jpg)It’s day 3 of sitting with my foot propped up, ice pack and pill taking regime. On one hand, it’s quite nice to detach myself from the craziness going on around me as the live outside broadcast machine steps up a gear each day. But it’s kind of weird to say the least when for weeks it’s just been me hanging about alone on the Sron, and now I’m the only one left behind!Excellent to see the whole team of about 55 people all in one room last night. The size of the production really starts to dawn! Whether it works out on the day might, among other things of course, come down to how much I can get my swollen, hurting ankle to calm down in the next 48 hours. Better get another ice pack.Afterwards, I’m off to find some foot-off bouldering...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6840939397734925607?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/4X-r2nWg3PQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What do you do when you can’t climb? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/tSyyKbzB9ys/what-do-you-do-when-you-cant-climb.html)
27 August 2010, 10:31 am
Find another way.Well, I’m partially on my way to full able bodied status again after two days resting up, so I can walk with some pain and stand on footholds no problem so long as the twist doesn’t stretch my stitches too much. And that’s on a half dose of analgesic. Promising.Today I thought it was a good time to start letting my ankle know it’s going to have a long day on Saturday, as well as get some training in to tick over instead of rapid fitness loss sitting on my bum.I did this traverse about 7 times until a hold broke and I got really quite soaking in the resultant bog-splat. I went back for another 5 reps later this evening, after a cup of tea.Even though my ankle was throbbing after this, it’s great progress. Yesterday morning when I got out of bed it was too painful to weight it even for a second.
PS: I wrote the above last night, better again this morning. Check out what the Sun have to say (http://www.thesun.co.uk/scotsol/homepage/scotlandfeatures/3113709/Well-climb-the-worlds-deadliest-rocks-in-TV-cliffhanger.html) about our live climb!Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Great Climb success (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rQ2zZk3BOJA/great-climb-success.html)
31 August 2010, 12:04 am
We pulled off The Great Climb.All 55 of us were just a little ecstatic last night and we partied in Glen Scaladale until we dropped. Every one of the usual suspects on the team of producers, outside broadcast production team, climbers, riggers, runners, presenters, medics, environmental consultants and many more were chosen for this project because they absolutely were THE person to rely on to come up with the goods when everything had to happen.If you watched the program, you saw some of the problems we dealt with as climbers to get to the top - a painful ankle and wet rock. But you won’t have seen all the equally hard work, good judgement calls and quick thinking that made it all happen behind the camera. I’ve got to admit I felt a bit emotional when we got to the top. It was just so great that everyones hard graft, gambles and input paid off in style.
We’re over the moon that so many of you on here, Twitter (#thegreatclimb (http://twitter.com/#search?q=%23thegreatclimb)) and my Facebook (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=761184046) said you enjoyed it. First up, some questions answered:I think there was a blip for a while, but it’s available for download on iplayer until Sept 4th, right here. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00ts470/The_Great_Climb/) It’ll also be on DVD fairly shortly. And when it does, you’ll find it on my shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html) as soon as it’s out. The triple 5 trip (myself and Tim, 5 new routes, 5 islands, in 5 days) which would would have seen in case of disaster on the live day, will be coming to the BBC TV screens shortly and also DVD. I’ll keep you posted on this.Tim climbed amazingly yesterday. He’s an amazing athlete in every way. Not only did he cruise pitch 1 and kept it together when things got ‘a bit spicy’ on pitch 3, but his lead of the soaking wet, slimy overhanging wall at the end was an exemplary display of climbing skill and mental composure.For me it was a tough day. By the sounds of it, it showed on camera too. I took as much analgesic as I could, but my right foot hurt on nearly every move. Adrenaline provided 100% pain relief that lasted through the crucial pitch 2. But after that I was using most or all of my ‘reserve’ to get me through it. It seemed pretty unlikely we’d get to the top without falling off, succumbing to ankle pain, swearing on live TV or generally failing for some other reason. But with 30 seconds to go after 5.5 hours live, I finished seconding the final pitch and the whoops rang back and forth across Glen Uladail.Getting the chance to be involved in a production like this, no matter what role you play in it, is an unmissable experience. You learn so much, from so many different people about how to up your game. So when it comes around to doing your own bit, you somehow magically end up making a 110% effort yourself. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5352118331820771395?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rQ2zZk3BOJA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Irresponsible (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/2S-Oeylgwd0/irresponsible.html)
1 September 2010, 3:34 pm
The trauma of Saturday’s efforts has put my ankle injury back a bit, so it’s no climbing for me for another wee while to give the wound a chance to knit again. Unfortunately, I think it could get in the way of finishing my big trad projects of the summer. But never say die…Who cares? At least I got through Saturday. I didn’t really tell anyone, but the whole of last week passed in a preoccupied state of worry that I wouldn’t be able to climb on the day. On the Wednesday morning I got out of bed and it was too painful to put on the ground for the first half hour. I guess the responsible thing to do would have been to say “I’m injured, so I’m out”. But I was remembering Paul Pritchard’s story about his and Johnny Dawes first ascent of The Scoop on Sron Uladail in 1988. As they faced failure to get past the capping roofs Pritchard said “In this sort of situation Dawes could be counted upon to throw caution to the wind and just be downright irresponsible”. Thanks for the inspiration guys!
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8xHVWbQgUFA/S-XQfHG3x_I/AAAAAAAADZk/p6bO2-ypolk/s400/29PITCH801.jpg) (http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8xHVWbQgUFA/S-XQfHG3x_I/AAAAAAAADZk/p6bO2-ypolk/s1600/29PITCH801.jpg)
Johnny Dawes about to take a rope snapping winger on the Scoop first ascent 1988. Pic: Paul Pritchard (via Mark Mcgowan's flickr (http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/unEfgvo17XqOqTf1nzNhsg?feat=directlink))For now it’s back to reality, an avalanche of work needing done, my bathroom won’t plaster itself and my book won’t finish itself. Here we go...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7391766237606234149?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/2S-Oeylgwd0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Big Rock opening, Milton Keynes Sept 18th (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xOBm_a7H8Ao/big-rock-opening-milton-keynes-sept.html)
1 September 2010, 7:50 pm
On September 18th myself and Tim Emmett will be at the opening day of the new Big Rock climbing centre in Milton Keynes. We’ll be running masterclasses in climbing during the day (my classes start at 10.30am). You’ll have to give the centre a ring (quickly!) to book these. In the evening, starting 7.30 we’ll be both be hosting an evening’s climbing entertainment talking about our respective backgrounds in climbing, BASE jumping and then telling you our stories from The Great Climb. It should be a fun day - see y’all there!Big Rock’s site is here. (http://www.bigrockclimbing.co.uk/) And their facebook is here. (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Milton-Keynes-United-Kingdom/Big-Rock-Climbing-Ltd/111469995570505)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5042647646463462744?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xOBm_a7H8Ao)
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Jodicus direct and clean (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/grAaFOFcLy8/jodicus-direct-and-clean.html)
5 September 2010, 7:46 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPypMi27II/AAAAAAAACYA/zRThoh530-I/s400/P1000136.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPypMi27II/AAAAAAAACYA/zRThoh530-I/s1600/P1000136.jpg)
Starting up Jodicus Direct (without the peg) E7 6cI was a bit bleary-eyed this morning heading out to meet Richard and Steve for an attack on Wave Buttress after yesterday’s good session at Steall. Yesterday, my ankle managed 90 minutes on steep tensiony climbing before tightening up. Today I was keen to get it moving on a sustained slab and work it a little bit harder.Wave Buttress had an obvious challenge. In the early nineties Mark Mcgowan (http://markmcgowan01.blogspot.com/) crimped his way up the honeycombed wall of Jodicus Direct. But with a pre-placed long sling enabling a peg to be clipped right before the crux, it was a bit of a weird proposition and never got popular. A few years ago the peg was removed but the climb was never re-led. An obvious challenge then to make a clean ascent ‘sans fer’, this time running it out on the 6c crux above an RP3.I gave it a quick clean and play on the moves to wake myself up and then worried whether it was a good idea as I still in pain walking in tussocky grass at the base of the cliff. What the hell - suck it up.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyqj3VkvI/AAAAAAAACYI/Udg9grh8Ro0/s400/P1000148.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyqj3VkvI/AAAAAAAACYI/Udg9grh8Ro0/s1600/P1000148.jpg)
I was glad I did. A fine E7 6c. Afterwards all I could do was shuffle off for two dinners and a bath. But who cares.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyreEZvrI/AAAAAAAACYQ/S6PyOFJCpvU/s400/P1000122.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyreEZvrI/AAAAAAAACYQ/S6PyOFJCpvU/s1600/P1000122.jpg)
Richard on Crackattack E3 6a
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyspGWVAI/AAAAAAAACYY/DBcerF6g_k4/s400/P1000153.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIPyspGWVAI/AAAAAAAACYY/DBcerF6g_k4/s1600/P1000153.jpg)
Steve On The Beach E5 6aDave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good fun work (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/BlLk7wky9rM/good-fun-work.html)
9 September 2010, 1:57 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIjlTylHQzI/AAAAAAAACYg/oPGcqmuqgwo/s400/_MG_2484.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIjlTylHQzI/AAAAAAAACYg/oPGcqmuqgwo/s1600/_MG_2484.jpg)
Pic by Steven Gordon (http://theoccasionalphotojournalist.blogspot.com/2010/09/painkiller-photos.html), Kilt by 21st Century, Chalksporran by BD (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/).Photoshoot work last week with Steven Gordon for a Scottish client (obviously!). Good fun day despite me hobbling on a dodgy ankle and Steven dislocating his Patella. We ate a lot of vitamin I, got sunburned and soloed roofs in kilts. Good work…Steven writes and posts more pics on his blog here.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-636667331357114243?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/BlLk7wky9rM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What now? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/F4EaTGqL3yg/what-now.html)
10 September 2010, 12:10 am
After I did Rhapsody at Dumbarton in 2006, I pretty quickly packed up and moved to the Highlands of Scotland. There were lots of reasons for doing this, climbing being just one. The ‘climbing reason’ was largely to find the most adventurous, arduous new routes I could lay my hands on, and try and do them. To Hell and Back, Echo Wall and more recently The Usual Suspects. All climbs where the actual climbing is only a small part of the deal. I’ve spent a ridiculous amount of time walking into Scottish coires in the rain with three ropes and two racks in my bag. I buy cleaning brushes in packs of 24. I’ve given myself three overuse injuries from cleaning new routes. On The Usual Suspects I think I spent 10 days on the rope on Sron Ulladale with my rockshoes just dangling from my harness before I finished finding, rigging and cleaning it and could actually start to move on it.I’ve been doing first ascents for 12 years now and still I love it. Not in a count ‘em up ticking kind of way. It’s the creative expression of every stage of the process that I’ve enjoyed so far. Over the past few years I’ve really revelled in the inaccessibility, the awkwardness and the pure endurance factor of time and effort needed to open new routes on trad gear in the remotest possible places.But climbing never has been about one channel for me. When judging the value of experiences, people often refer to how ‘memorable’ they were. This makes sense. I was reading Steve McClure’s column in Climb today and he was talking about how he found his long redpoint battles most memorable for him. I feel exactly the same. For me also, there is no substitute for the detail, the intricacy of the moves and the tactics and the totally enveloping focus of the redpoint effort, with all extraneous thought and movement distilled out by a thousand rehearsals in body and mind. Every bit of time, effort, sweat and will that goes into it, all add to it’s value.I don’t think my memory of the smell and the summer sun on Echo Wall sessions will ever diminish. Or glissading down Observatory gully at 11pm in the sunset feeling totally at home. Or the roaring wind throwing me about on Sron Uladail, ropes rubbing on sharp edges, soaked to the skin as I looked for lines to climb. Mountains and mountain trad climbing inevitably make a deep stamp in your memory by their power. So is that an argument to forget everything else and go trad climbing all the time? No!Memories are important, but they are not everything. We have to live in the moment too. Everyday needs and pleasures are also important. You might not remember your regular walk to your girlfriend’s or school or work on a particular day several years ago. But the everyday act of walking is something really important to lots of us. To say you’d soon miss it if it was taken away from you is a bit of an understatement. This everyday routine of climbing movement is the other side of climbing for me, and I know it is for lots of people, even if they don’t necessarily think of it that way. Whether it’s the exercise, or the emptying of the mind for a while, or the movement or whatever - it doesn’t matter. If you look at it directly it seems mundane. But the bigger picture shows that it becomes important to you. Especially if, like me, you’ve done it for 17 years.I often feel like this in September. A long ‘summer’ of labour intensive mountain new routing leaves me counting the hours of being wet, walking with large sacks, shivering and hauling about on ropes and realising this comes at the expense of actual metres of hard moves climbed. This season, like all the previous, I have some fine adventures to show for it. If the last warm days, dry mountain crags and partners collide, I may yet have more. Now though, the pendulum needs to swing the other way and I need to climb some hard moves again.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIl2Ptjlg7I/AAAAAAAACYw/fUSOYUJd86o/s320/P1000113.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TIl2Ptjlg7I/AAAAAAAACYw/fUSOYUJd86o/s1600/P1000113.jpg)
Short term plan: time to boulderDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6164090034688739229?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/F4EaTGqL3yg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Risk & Ethics of Adventure: EMFF Oct 24th (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/dXdiELv3L2k/risk-ethics-of-adventure-emff-oct-24th.html)
16 September 2010, 12:57 pm
At this year’s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival I’m speaking at a debate on the Ethics of Adventure. Sunday 24th October, 2pm, details on the EMFF site here. (http://www.edinburghmountainff.com/speaker_sun_aft.htm)Of course there are many ethical aspects to adventure and adventure sport, and which we discuss I’m sure will depend on what you guys want to talk about on the day. I guess the most discussed of all is of course the issue of risk. I’m never sure whether it’s because I’ve studied, written and talked about the subject for years now, or whether I rub noses with it a lot, or whether I’m getting older. But when I observe attitudes to risk in some others or society in general, I get quite riled. I’m a passive sort of chap and that doesn’t happen easily. It strikes me that the general attitudes to risk and which risks are acceptable are not in my society has got progressively more messed up in my lifetime. My sport of climbing has been a welcome sanctuary of sense a lot of the time! It seems that people are content to take huge risks with life, limb or lifestyle without giving much thought (or none at all), yet are aghast at others risk taking that is proportionally far smaller, or balanced against much greater reward.I’m being a little provocative here of course. I know that it’s a question of perception. A lot of our grave errors in risk awareness and management aren’t really our fault. We’re not hardwired to cope with the sorts of risks of modern life, and the corrupting influences of the media compound this to a quite staggering level. So more on this on the 24th… See you there maybe for a lively chat.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4107092068761990032?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/dXdiELv3L2k)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Kilted climbing (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/XztoZppQ5z0/other-week-mentioned-fun-wee-shoot-i.html)
20 September 2010, 6:56 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJeuVmbgmGI/AAAAAAAACZI/ciXR9zE7nzg/s640/kilted+climbingbig.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJeuVmbgmGI/AAAAAAAACZI/ciXR9zE7nzg/s1600/kilted+climbingbig.jpg)
The other week mentioned a fun wee shoot I did with Steven Gordon (http://theoccasionalphotojournalist.blogspot.com/). It was for Visit Scotland, promoting an adventure travel trade summit (http://www.adventuretravel.biz/) happening in Aviemore next month. Visit Scotland just sent over the picture they chose to promote the summit, so I thought I would share it.I thought Steven did a fine job here!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3064502490042422789?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/XztoZppQ5z0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Pre-Great Climb interview (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Erg7_v25kS4/pre-great-climb-interview.html)
21 September 2010, 10:39 am
Here is a wee interview I did for Triple Echo (http://www.tripleecho.co.uk/Triple_Echo_Productions/Great_Climb.html) in prep for the Great Climb, but didn’t end up used on the live broadcast since the climbing action didn’t let up! Thought I would share it. Questions by Lindsay Cannon.As you can see it’s aimed at a non-climbing audience. Both my fears about the weather, and my confidence in Tim turned out to be right! But my fears about my own performance turned out to be the least of my worries on the day...Full Name: Dave MacLeodDate of Birth: 17 July 1978Place of Birth: Glasgow
Nationality: British
Where do you live: Letterfinlay, in Lochaber.Brothers/Sisters: Younger Sister Katy half-brothers Todd and Alan and half-sister Fiona.
Education: Garnethill Primary, Charing Cross, GlasgowWesterton Primary, Bearsden, GlasgowBoclair Academy, Bearsden, GlasgowBSc Sports science & physiology, University of GlasgowMSc Sport & Exercise Science, University of Strathclyde
How would you describe yourself: A fairly passive, quiet and thoughtful sort of guy except when in comes to work or play where an obsessive, die-hard stubborn streak shows itself. I love being in wild places, training, solving problems and trying to do things that seem improbable by finding easy ways to do them.
How would you describe what you do for a living:The short answer is that I climb rocks and mountains and tell stories about my experiences. The longer answer is that I climb routes that haven’t been done yet because of a combination of difficulty, apparent risk, remoteness or logistical awkwardness. I make a living from the interest of the stories of my climbs and the knowledge I’ve gained in how to prepare for them. I write a couple of blogs that a lot of people read and on that I run a shop on the site which sells books, films and clothing related to climbing. I also write the books, make the films and design the clothing, along with my wife, Claire. I also promote several climbing equipment companies, lecture about my climbing and coach it too. There isn’t much time left over.The objective of all this is basically to have great experiences and use them to do creative work that helps others with their experiences in one way or another.
Philosophy: To follow my passions as energetically as possible and use this energy and experience to learn as much as possible and then share it with others.Partner: Married to Claire.Do they climb and if so to what grade: Claire skydives.When did you start climbing and why:I started climbing about 15. I discovered hills by accident by cycling out to the ‘Queen’s View’ just after I moved to the edge of Glasgow. I loved exploring the hills and the highlands and naturally gravitated increasingly towards cliffs rather than paths as the logical next stage. When I found out about the boulders at Dumbarton Rock I was totally hooked on climbing and didn’t look back.First route you climbed and how you felt afterwards:I can’t remember the first climb I succeeded on, but on the first day I went to Dumbarton Rock I soloed to the last moves of a route called ‘Plunge’ about 4 times and downclimbed it, too scared to climb up the castle wall at the end (I’d gone the wrong way, it turned out later). I found the process of dealing with my fear and having another attempt a brilliant experience. There were two climbers hanging around on ropes on a route called Requiem nearby, which was the hardest climb in Scotland at the time (first ascent Dave Cuthberston in 1983). They were laughing at me because I kept reappearing from the bottom of ‘Plunge’ with a sorry look on my face. But it seemed pretty ironic to me because at least I could climb to the last move without a rope, but they could barely make a single move on their climb without pulling up on the rope. On the train home I set a goal to climb Requiem when I was 16. I was 20 when I managed it.Why did you want to continue climbing:There are several big advantages of rock climbing over other sports (which I generally hated as a kid). First, the climb is always there, so if you fail you have another chance to solve the problems and have another go. Second, you can make it whatever you want it to be - completely safe, insanely dangerous, local at the climbing wall, or halfway round the world, hot and sunny in the south of France or bitterly cold on an Alpine north face, solitary free soloing or social bouldering. Total freedom and no rules! Third, it’s indefinable nature tends in most cases to keep the sport at an ethically sound level and closer to the original ideals of sport. It takes place in some of the most beautiful places in the world and the exposure to risk and the ‘no going back’ committing nature of the activity is one of the best feelings you can get. It’s free, and all you really need is your hands and feet to go and climb something.What type of rock do you prefer and why:The mathematical precision of the movement demanded by Dumbarton Basalt, or the elegant climbs and friction moves of Ben Nevis Andesite are my favourites, among many.Which style of climbing do you prefer and why (sport,trad, winter mixed, ice etc)I am a Scot so I tend not to prefer any - Scottish climbing has great climbing in all the disciplines so it’s hard not to love them all equally. But I find it extremely hard to live without the daily activity of bouldering.What is the hardest route you have ever climbed and type:The hardest route I have climbed is my own route Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. It’s very close to my physical limit of climbing difficulty, but in a situation where the consequences of a fall could not be higher.Have you ever been injured and if so how did it happen:Like most athletes I have had many injuries from training, to my fingers and elbows. Apart from minor scrapes, my only spell in hospital from a climbing fall was a badly broken ankle from a free-soloing fall in my late teens. It was an important stage in my development - I learnt a lot!Which climber do you admire most and why:It’s natural to connect more with climbers who have climbed the routes you have seen or attempted. When I started, all the hardest climbs in Scotland were opened by Dave Cuthbertson and the process of repeating many of his hardest routes during my development really taught me how much effort and commitment was needed to climb hard, especially across different disciplines. I was desperate to climb a new route project of his in Glen Nevis that he never quite completed. But it was so hard, it took me years before I could finally do it in 2007 (Ring of Steall 8c+). I knew where Cubby’s highpoint was in 1993 which was a world class climbing performance at the time and if it hadn’t been for discussing the movement details at length with Cubby I don’t think I could have done it.How do you feel about the challenge of The Great Climb:It’s an enormous challenge. In fact I better not think about it too much or I’ll get intimidated. The only thing that helps is to know that it’ll be a big challenge for everyone involved. Doing the hardest climbs these days is very dependent on the conditions being just right. Athletes in sports that have scheduled competitions often manage better performances in training than competition when internal and external conditions are ideal. Climbing isn’t normally scheduled so we keep attempting the climbs until everything works out right and then maybe we succeed. We have to take pot luck on the day for what the weather is like, so it could make our chosen climb impossible if we are unlucky. It’s a six hour climb so it’s comparable to distance running as a physiological challenge in some ways. You can see in marathon (a 2 or 3 hour event) how much conditions of wind and temperature affect the performances. Fast times just aren’t possible on a hot day with a headwind. On Sron Uladail, wind chill is our most likely enemy. If our muscles are very cold it will be much more draining to climb each section and we will tire more quickly and might fall. Or if it’s very wet or humid the holds will be much harder to use. Of course if it’s completely still, the midges might make it impossible for anyone to function and we may all have to run away! On a warm day with a good breeze we will have a fighting chance. In a westerly storm we’ll not even get off the ground. What do you feel are the strengths of your climbing partnership for The Great Climb:Both Tim and myself are very experienced climbers on this type of climb. We know our limits fairly well but also how to operate right on those limits without getting into too much trouble. Tim has a huge amount of energy, an extremely positive attitude and is known for rising to the occasion when circumstances are not going to plan on a climb. He is absolutely dependable to bring the best out in not only himself, but climbing partners as well. My approach is subtly different I suppose in that I tend to really home in on the potential problems and how to make a plan to get round them. I’ve been training strength a lot in preparation for this climb because the start of pitch 2 has a short very intense section of hard, powerful moves. I’ve also spent a lot of time looking at the cliff and figured out exactly where to climb. So between us I think we have a lot to throw at the climb and there is a lot we can help each other with our separate leads on the climb.Weaknesses of the above if any:My biggest worry (apart from the weather on the day) is that I wont be able to reach one hold on the hardest move of the whole route. It’s the second move on the second pitch. It’s a huge reach with the left hand from a good hold to a finger edge. If I time the movement perfectly I can do the move, but I need to use 100% of my strength to reach the last three inches and it’s hard to be accurate to grab the hold directly - a bit like tennis serves; it’s hard to serve at 100% maximum speed without sacrificing accuracy. Even if I can complete the move, if I run out of strength higher up the pitch I think there’s no way I could have enough strength in reserve to have a second attempt. The other problem is that if I fall off that move, I might land directly on Tim who will be hanging on the belay right underneath. Tim’s pitches are also very hard and although I’m confident he can climb them, they are very tiring endurance bouts of climbing and if he slips near the end of a pitch it will be really tough to have another try. This is one of the big difficulties with a climb as long and steep as Sron Uladail - it is very unforgiving of mistakes on the ascent. If either of us takes any falls it will take every bit of fitness we have to succeed after that.
Climbing career highlights – top two:See above Echo Wall and also watch the film! (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall.html)!No.2 - The first winter ascent of Anubis on Ben Nevis. Anubis is a summer rock climb first climbed by myself in 2005 and was the hardest rock climb on the mountain at E8 until I did Echo Wall more recently. I made it a big goal to try to climb it under winter conditions of snow and ice as well. I managed to do it last winter on my fourth attempt. As a winter ascent of a summer rock climb it was a much higher standard than had been done before. The crux pitch took 5 and a half hours to lead and was the hardest test of endurance and composure I’ve had in climbing.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5309242357610814485?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Erg7_v25kS4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lectures in Harris, Lewis and Kendal (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eOAswWvjDiI/lectures-in-harris-lewis-and-kendal.html)
21 September 2010, 4:35 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjdE_LupEI/AAAAAAAACZQ/NEQ0XCOzK4c/s400/Dave+and+Tim+TRIPLE+ECHO+PRODUCTIONS.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjdE_LupEI/AAAAAAAACZQ/NEQ0XCOzK4c/s1600/Dave+and+Tim+TRIPLE+ECHO+PRODUCTIONS.jpg)
I’ve just arranged two lectures in the Western Isles pretty soon - I’m speaking on Harris at the Harris Hotel, Tarbert at 8pm on October 4th. On Oct 5th I’m at the Cala Inn in Stornoway. I’ll talk about how climbing transformed my life, thoughts on climbing Sron Uladail on live telly with an overdose of painkillers and why climbing is load safer than it looks…Well, most of the time anyway.(http://www.hotaches.com/images/Pinnacle_DVD_Small.jpg) (http://www.hotaches.com/images/Pinnacle_DVD_Small.jpg)I’m also speaking at this year’s Kendal Mountain Festival in November. On the Friday night I’m speaking alongside Andy Turner at the Premiere of The Pinnacle (http://www.hotaches.com/films.htm) (The Smith/Marshall ‘week’ on the Ben). On the Saturday it’s ‘Great Climb’ night (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/programme-detail.cfm?programme=31)and I’m co-hosting an evening of talking and film about the making of the BBC live broadcast alongside Richard Else, Brian Hall and Cameron McNeish. Should be fun!See y’all there.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1656356726143899976?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/eOAswWvjDiI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Coaching at Big Rock (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/O2BIJeippJA/some-pics-from-my-technique-coaching.html)
21 September 2010, 4:50 pm
Some pics from my technique coaching sessions at the opening on Big Rock in Milton Keynes. Thanks to Tom George (http://www.throughtheseeyes.co.uk/) for these!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjg-y98q6I/AAAAAAAACZg/bhtI0FbtGVQ/s400/IMG_8150.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjg-y98q6I/AAAAAAAACZg/bhtI0FbtGVQ/s1600/IMG_8150.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjhB93Xu5I/AAAAAAAACZo/R4yT_pf-uBs/s400/IMG_8248.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjhB93Xu5I/AAAAAAAACZo/R4yT_pf-uBs/s1600/IMG_8248.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjg7yxxHyI/AAAAAAAACZY/jg9OlWd_7b0/s400/IMG_8045.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjg7yxxHyI/AAAAAAAACZY/jg9OlWd_7b0/s1600/IMG_8045.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjhD9BZtTI/AAAAAAAACZw/rmaYjSUWLjI/s400/IMG_9070.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TJjhD9BZtTI/AAAAAAAACZw/rmaYjSUWLjI/s1600/IMG_9070.jpg)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-77623545593709866?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/O2BIJeippJA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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ME Slackline sets are here too (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Jp418FalGJM/me-slackline-sets-are-here-too.html)
21 September 2010, 10:46 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/slacklinepro.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#equipment)
I’ve just uploaded the new Slackline sets from Mountain Equipment to our shop right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#equipment) They have been super popular for ME and so they’ve updated them again this year. There are three sets, the Pro, Passion and Chill. We are getting the Chill in shortly when the new stock arrives at ME.Both the Pro and Passion sets have a 25mm wide slackline with 3m padded anchor slings and heavy duty ratchets for racking them up. The Passion is 18 metres long and the Pro is 25m. Enjoy!
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/slacklinepassion.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#equipment)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7228625404815831130?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Jp418FalGJM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New colours in the ME beanies (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KbBjAye4YlY/new-colours-in-me-beanies.html)
21 September 2010, 10:54 pm
We just got in a lot of new colours in our Mountain Equipment beanies ready for the coming winter. They are in the shop now right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentbrandedcranberry.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentbrandedorange.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentbrandedorange.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentbeanieoceandepths.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentbeanieoceandepths.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20beanie%20dark%20ink.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20beanie%20dark%20ink.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20ocean.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20ocean.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20Branded%20Knitted%20Beanie%20black.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20Branded%20Knitted%20Beanie%20black.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-black.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-black.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentknittedink.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainequipmentknittedink.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-citronelle.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain-Equipment-plain-knitted-beanie-citronelle.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountainequipmentknittedred.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountainequipmentknittedred.jpg)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20beanie%20molten%20red.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountain%20Equipment%20branded%20beanie%20molten%20red.jpg)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/maximumclimbing.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/eur/maximumclimbing.html)In the books section I’ve added Eric Horst’s new book on mental skills for climbers - Maximum Climbing (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/eur/maximumclimbing.html) which is just out. It’s a very up to date and comprehensive guide to theory and practice in the psychology of performance in climbing. Horst has drawn on the developments in behavioral and cognitive psychology which has come on a lot in the past few years. Interesting reading (review on the way on OCC soon).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9076175396270659276?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KbBjAye4YlY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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In praise of bouldering (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/w-PJ9DrVd4c/in-praise-of-bouldering.html)
2 October 2010, 10:08 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcESwH-7QI/AAAAAAAACaY/Jxgb5XpwIYc/s400/board+climbing.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcESwH-7QI/AAAAAAAACaY/Jxgb5XpwIYc/s1600/board+climbing.jpg)
I’ve had two and a half intense days at home since returning from work in Milton Keynes and leaving for more work in Wales this morning. Too much driving!Last night, after a marathon office stint, attempting to finally catch up with all my work at home, I enjoyed a session on my board immensely. That might not seem surprising. But to me, the extent of my enjoyment of bouldering surprises me nearly every time I do it.As I was saying in a recent post, I’m looking for lots of things in climbing - adventure, partnerships, big challenges. Seen as ‘higher order’ pleasures compared to the physical enjoyment of climbing. Except ‘higher order’ is totally the wrong way to see it.In actual fact, there is nothing ‘lower order’ about the physical side of climbing. Firstly, because there’s no such thing as a purely physical pleasure. All enjoyment is psychological. Sometimes it’s convenient to separate ‘basic physical’ and more complicated feelings. However, when it comes down to it, there is no difference along these lines and that is not sufficiently recognised in modern discussions of climbing or other types of enjoyment.A complicating factor in how physical and mental pleasures have become separate is our natural tendency to become either arrogant, ignorant or just a bit unimaginative. Lots of climbers got into climbing to have adventures, see nice places, gain respect or acceptance and other things like this. It’s still fairly common that some climbers either simply don’t understand sport climbing and bouldering, or think they do understand it and look down upon it as a ‘lower order’ pleasure.Their loss! And I don’t mean that in a dismissive way. This post is a direct appeal to those people to make another effort to understand it and realise the whole world of deep enjoyment they are missing out on! Sometimes, it’s purely the fear of the status quo changing and their connection with climbing changing that stops people giving it any effort. Maybe your view of what you value in your climbing might change forever and that feels risky. But much more often it’s a purely practical problem - people don’t know how to boulder. They don’t know what to do on a bouldering wall. It feels boring to them. Their mistake is to deduce therefore it is boring. Rather, they just haven’t figured it out yet.It’s a skill in itself and it takes time and application to master. It’s not love at first acquaintance for everyone as I’m sure some of you could testify. Think about a skill you know well such as your favourite branch of climbing, your job or some other activity. Have you ever seen people make some basic mistakes and fail to connect with it? You find yourself thinking “if you just did it this way, you’d get so much more out of it!”. Well maybe you are in the same position with bouldering.I’ll put my money where my mouth is and write a simple guide to how to boulder and enjoy it for those who have tried and don’t. I’ll do this shortly and post on my other blog. But for now here is a quick thought:We call boulder problems ‘problems’ because it is primarily a problem solving activity (that idea of it being all about the physical is dissolving already!). So you have to come to it with the willingness to grapple with the problem - experiment, learn incrementally and then reach the solution. If you do it indoors then you inevitably run out of problems and need to set more yourself. So it’s also a problem setting discipline. A massive area of skill with lots of areas to go wrong. Learn it piece by piece. And what about the physical connection? First, you have to open yourself to the pleasure of movement. Not everyone is. They are too focused on getting to the top - the result, the task completion mentality. There is more to it. If the objective is not just to climb it but to climb it well, with minimum force. The experience has more dimensions this way. The application of strength and momentum is enjoyable too. But not just for the force - for the timing of the force and also the sparing of it.It’s possible to get so much enjoyment from an hour on a plywood board. Crazy thought.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6106110952835428828?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/w-PJ9DrVd4c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Muy Caliente (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ErgBYl0lC3M/muy-caliente.html)
2 October 2010, 10:38 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF7edIpvI/AAAAAAAACao/JlJbZnWmXoA/s400/P1000185.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF7edIpvI/AAAAAAAACao/JlJbZnWmXoA/s1600/P1000185.jpg)
In the ‘no fall zone’ on Muy Caliente E10 6c, PembrokeI’d never been to Pembroke before, so obviously I’ve been a bit of a headless chicken over the past week spent there. There’s a lot to do! First up I met up with Harry and the team to shoot for a couple of days with them for their documentary ‘Mastering the Matrix’. We talked a lot on camera about my perspectives on finding success in sport or tasks in general, the differences between success and happiness and misconceptions about risk taking. I’d been invited to take part in part because I discussed a lot of this in the practical context in my book. The lessons from sport for the wider world are fascinating and it was a good discussion.After talking for ages, it was time to put it into practice. So we went to the cliffs and took some falls. We practised falling, taking 30 footers off ‘Test Case’ E3, in St Govan’s. It totally reminded me how often you have to practice falling. I was actually a little nervous before the first one. A couple of months of no trad falls and the unfamiliarity of falling plays absolute havoc with your leading confidence and climbing efficiency. If you don’t believe me you’re either a nutter, operating way below your potential, or more likely kidding yourself. After this I took the opportunity to have a quick play on Tim Emmett’s E10 ‘Muy Caliente’. Moves done first try, link done first try. Game on.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF5ICN8II/AAAAAAAACak/H7Rn-XDF8oQ/s400/P1000192.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF5ICN8II/AAAAAAAACak/H7Rn-XDF8oQ/s1600/P1000192.jpg)
Setting up for the technical crux, the crucial nut clippedI asked the guys if they wanted to stay an extra day and film me putting my money where my mouth is and blasting up that runout. I must say that my knowledge of Tim’s lead attempts really spurred me on to get on the lead myself. I think Linford Christie would struggle to prevent a boulder splat from 50 feet up if you fell off the end of the runout. Tim’s lead attempts despite not having linked it on a top rope are an exemplar of taking it right to the limit. A fine effort of boldness. I linked it second go and still felt it was a serious proposition, especially while nervously fiddling in the wire at the end of the runout, all too aware of the long stretch of rope below me.Once past the runout it’s just a matter of unleashing every bit of power in your fingers on the technical crux. You don’t want to have to do that runout again! E10? Maybe just, because of that runout. It’s certainly easier than To Hell and Back (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tohellandback.html), but maybe a slightly bigger undertaking than Achemine.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF2vA1LHI/AAAAAAAACag/ANoFmTAIh8w/s400/P1000195.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TKcF2vA1LHI/AAAAAAAACag/ANoFmTAIh8w/s1600/P1000195.jpg)
Mid-technical crux on Muy Caliente
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With that in the bag, I headed to the pub with Pickford and rendezvoused with the gang for the next shoot! Next up our plan was to shoot some nice climbs for a few days for Black Diamond Equipment (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb). Myself and Tim climbing, Diff, Katie and Dave Pickford shooting. The next hardest route to get on was Pickford’s line ‘The Brothers Karamazov’ Originally given E9 but later downgraded to E8. However, Dave pointed out that the line hadn’t been done in one big pitch. The second pitch is E7 and was led on a separate day from the main pitch by Pickford, Birkett and Mawson (as far as I know). Dave reckoned that cleaning up this niggle would make it definitely E9.On day 1 we had a go but sea spray stopped both of us in our tracks. Instead we wandered up some nice E5s which were lovely. Next day we got thoroughly soaked by rain and opted to just to Pleasure Dome E3 and Manzuku E1 in the wet. Once we discovered that climbing soaking limestone in gloves was easier than soggy chalk we got on fine and had a nice day.But ‘The Brothers’ (needs to be said in a Welsh accent for full effect) needed doing to round things off. So next day after the rain stopped we were there again, this time with both of us feeling like going for it. In the end, by the time conditions were right and we were ready, the sun was low in the sky, the waves were getting closer and there was time for only one lead. So we drew straws. I won and Tim graciously let me go for a good scrap on the wall, struggling at first with warm slippy slopers on the crux, and then rope drag just where I didn’t need it on the upper E7 half. But just after sunset, I topped out with a big pitch behind me and a big smile. Video and pics from all this will be on BDs site sometime soon.Great trip!PS: 600 mile drive home, as always, was the most dangerous part of the trip. As I pulled up at a traffic jam I looked in my rear view mirror to see the guy behind driving along looking down (presumably at his iphone) and not braking. So today I have some minor whiplash and a smashed up car to deal with.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3761741902915957338?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ErgBYl0lC3M)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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5 climbs, 5 islands scheduled on BBC2 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/jXZJlxZkcVA/5-climbs-5-islands-scheduled-on-bbc2.html)
2 October 2010, 12:01 pm
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The 5 climbs, 5 islands film has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland! Originally filmed as a back up for the Great Climb programme in case of atrocious weather, injuries etc (we got both but still managed it!), we had a great adventure and I think you’ll like the film.We travelled about the Hebrides on a big boat, attempting some really hard new routes back to back over 5 days. You’ll have to watch the programmes to see the outcome but I can tell you it was the best trip I’ve had new routing in the Hebrides, certainly one of the hardest and definitely with the most falls!The culmination of the trip trying a brilliant 2 pitch line of perfect black Gabbro on St Kilda was unbelievable.It will be shown in two x 1 hour shows, BBC2 Scotland, Sky, iplayer October 19th and 26th at 19.00. Enjoy!
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Some pics from St Kilda on the 5 climbs, 5 islands trip. Photos: Triple Echo (http://www.tripleecho.co.uk/Triple_Echo_Productions/Home.html)
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My previous blog about the trip is here. (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/06/triple-5-challenge.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3161048917741300071?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/jXZJlxZkcVA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hot Aches DVDs offers (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xAnXf8hXows/hot-aches-dvds-offers.html)
8 October 2010, 8:16 pm
We are running a couple of offers in the shop for a while on the Hot Aches DVDs collection:(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hotachesboxlessset.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hotachesboxlessset.jpg)The ‘boxless’ set of all the Hot Aches DVD back catalogue for £50. 5 DVDs, 7 hours of great climbing films and the collection pretty much reads like a history of top end British trad climbing as well as ice, mixed, bouldering and sport and multipitch from all over the world. Contains E11, Committed I and II, Monkey See Monkey Do, All Mixed Up. PAL format only. It’s in the shop now here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hotachesboxlessset.html).(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Committedbundle.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Committedbundle.jpg)Committed I & II bundle for £20 which they would normally cost each. Committed I has 200 E points of hardcore trad action including Divided Years E8, Blind Vision E10, Trauma E8 and stacks of others. Committed 2 has The Walk of Life E9, The Groove E10, Dynamics of Change E9, If Six Was Nine E9, A’ Muerte 9a, The Hurting XI and on and on. In the shop now, here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/committedbundle.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9051852306763316218?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xAnXf8hXows)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Teetering time (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9RYmLwNReYs/teetering-time.html)
17 October 2010, 11:11 pm
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Loch Ailort looking like glass in the October sunshine
Since pulling super hard on the tweaky little sidepull crimp on the crux on Muy Caliente (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/10/muy-caliente.html) the other week, a ligament in my index finger has been complaining. A week or so of doing pretty much no climbing seems to have given it time to calm down a bit, and some careful training has resumed. At least it's been good for making progress on my next book, 'Rock 'til you drop'.It’s quite scary how a week off makes a real dent in your form. Mind you, if there’s anywhere you need to be firing on all cylinders, it’s my board. I’ve never climbed anywhere so unforgiving of lack of form, energy or confidence. So long as you take it the right way, it’s good for you to be slapped so convincingly. As always, when injuries demand a rest for the fingers, slabs are a good idea. I did make one last attempt to climb a nice slab in the mountains. But the unseasonal high temperatures didn’t last long enough to finish the job. Instead I headed to another tip off from Donald King. The latest in the King line series is a lovely compact slab near Glenfinnan, with two hardcore projects. Yesterday, in lovely sunshine and the company of Kev (http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.com/), I had a session on the easier one which will be a bold E9 7a. I brushed, fiddled a lot with tiny microwires and tried some very teetery moves. By 4pm, it was time to either lead or go home.The prospect of the lead meant a very balancy crux, swapping feet on miniscule smears with one hand on an undercut and the other doing not very much at all. Prognosis in case of a fall; two rather dubious microwires that could hold...or not, and a landing on a razor sharp spiky embedded rock 30 feet below.I opted for going home. On my return, I’ll bring some more tools for the job. Ten minutes with a spade will sort out the guillotine landing. A handplaced pecker should add another runner to the rack, and fresh toes and fingertips should bite into those little ‘holds’ a tad better.
Can't wait...
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Kev enjoying the gloaming on the walk out
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6817471550187929669?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/9RYmLwNReYs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 1 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/kkQEhhD-w6s/5-climbs-5-islands-part-1.html)
20 October 2010, 1:02 pm
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Galta Mor, the Shaints - the location of our first ‘5 Islands’ challenge route; The Puffin Diaries E7 6c,6bDid you catch it on TV last night? If you missed it, you’ll get it on iPlayer right here (http://www.bbc.co.uk/i/vg4qt/) and if you are abroad you’ll be able to see it using this website (http://www.viewtvabroad.com/) (or wait for the DVD...). Remember to tune in again next Tuesday (26th) at 7pm to catch the second half of the story. If you don’t want to know how we got on in the first two days of the challenge, best stop reading this post here! All pics: by me courtesy of Triple Echo Productions (http://www.tripleecho.co.uk/)
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Cleaning pitch 2 the day before the start of the challenge. So first up was the Shiants. We didn’t know of any recorded routes on the islands other than some scary stories of attempts on loose basalt chimneys back in the day. The wave washed basalt in the arch was fantastic stuff. The only problem we had was that all the cliffs with good rock were north facing and the rain was coming down good style until about 12 hours before we were due to start. You saw the result of the damp rock under the roofs - a sudden slip and plummet. Thankfully that arete wasn’t too sharp on the rope! The roofs were about 7c+ but with reasonably good gear. Pitch 2 was a stiff E5 6b finger crack. So the whole route went at hard E7 6c,6b - The Puffin Diaries.
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The Shaints have 2% of the worlds Puffin populationThe second day was really going to be the toughest of the challenge. As it turned out it didn’t really work out that way, but that’s for next week’s show... The big horizontal roof on Creag Mo was about 7c+ or 8a before the crucial hold came off and possibly 8a+ afterwards. Or maybe I was just getting tired after throwing myself at it several times? On my recce for the production in May I semi-aided/free climbed out to that slot, removing a LOT of loose rock because the roof marks the line of weakness between the Mica Schist below and the bullet hard Lewissian Gneiss above. I dynoed for the slot and had a desperate time trying to get a cam in it along with my fingers and take a rest to clean it. And yet it broke straight off on the crucial lead day! Weird. Anyhow, the result was a harder route and I suppose more entertaining to watch me failing so many times.
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Arriving in Loch Seaforth to head to Creag Mo, HarrisIt wasn’t too entertaining at the time I can tell you. The pressure of the entire project’s success or failure for Tim, the crew and the BBC production resting on me getting across that roof on my last try was kind of thick in the air. I think the relief on my face was obvious. The Realm, E8 6c, 6b is one of the best mountain E8s in Britain (The best E8 in Britain is still The Great Escape on Arran by the way). Did you spot the ‘Indian Face of the future’ project just right of The Realm?
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Boat lifeIt was funny Tim pointing out in the program that I was psyched to do as hard routes as possible on the challenge. I really should have known that choosing to try and do climbs as hard as E7 and E8 back to back that haven’t been done before so aren’t pre-cleaned and have all the unknowns removed would put the whole project at risk. The reason was that I just got carried away by the quality of the lines! It just seemed like if we were going to climb a new route on a brilliant cliff like Creag Mo, then it was obvious it had to be across the roof. When a lot of people’s time and money is being spent on a big crew of people being there to film us climbing and make a good TV programme, making it work is really high on the priority list. I made a judgement call that super high motivation to take the rare opportunity to nail such remote, good and hard routes would win out against having no margin to absorb setbacks. It worked so far...
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Sometimes naming routes is hard, sometimes not.
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Seconding Tim on day 3 on Lewis… 7pm next Tuesday for episode 2. Pic: Cubby Images/Triple EchoDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-916688278225753591?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/kkQEhhD-w6s)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Learning the error of my ways (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/efnJ82Y--Dg/learning-error-of-my-ways.html)
22 October 2010, 8:51 pm
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Circuits @ Halewood‘sThis week has been a week of solid work on Rock ‘til you drop by day and abuse of various plywood boards by night. Good fun and a nice change from travelling too much. I do think I’ve read just a bit too much this week about posture and it’s impact on people who choose to spend large volumes of time hanging from bits of plywood. It’s a strange thing to spend all day reading about how much damage you can do from your sport, and then heading out to go and do some more all evening long!Seriously though, I’ve learned a LOT about the likely sources of my own elbow problems over the recent years and have sufficiently terrified myself into including an enthusiastic battery of stretches and weird looking calisthenics to sort out my various imbalances. It's brilliant to actually know what the problem was!!!Researching a book that crosses so many scientific and practical fields of expertise is no overnight task, and next week I’ll no doubt repeat this one and many before it: - buy expensive textbooks (the most expensive so far was £200!), spend the wee small hours tweaking searches through journals with nasty pictures of mangled elbows and then try to fit this with my knowledge of climbing and the elbow, finger and shoulder destroying ways of keen climbers.But for two days, I have a break. I’m off with Claire to the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival (http://www.edinburghmountainff.com/EMFF_saturday_aft.htm) for some good events - first up: Diff’s lecture “Climbers I’ve shot, and some I’d like to shoot” which will be a laugh, then the Premiere of the film he shot of our repeat of the famous ‘Pinnacle’ week on Ben Nevis, 50 years to the day since they did it. Then on Sunday it’s the debate on the ethics of adventure. See you there maybe..
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7926751450640949079?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/efnJ82Y--Dg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Thought provoking afternoon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/_l7xhRAbwYA/thought-provoking-afternoon.html)
25 October 2010, 9:48 pm
Just in from a shivery afternoon under black skies and gales in Glenfinnan. Kev couldn’t make it out for sessions on the slab so I took the shunt and worked more on the harder of the two projects there. When I originally looked at it I could see that it was possible but it looked like an E11 slab (!) Can you imagine how nails that would have to be?But after some hours of deciphering I decoded a sequence and with much wild slapping for various tiny things, got it linked on the top rope. Oh dear. There is also one microwire placement. A poor one, but enough to make it seem like it could be the coming down towards the top of the E10 band, and something I would at least think about leading.Most of the hard trad routes I’ve done are much better protected than this, and a LOT easier. The only harder route I’ve done is Echo Wall probably, but that suited my style being steep and technical. I’m a crap slab climber on the whole. Having said that, I’ve tried to climb some harder slabs to get better at them. Comparing this line to other slabs like Indian Face or The Walk of Life in my mind - they are easy warm-ups against this line, and a lot better protected. A lot of much better microwires would have to rip on Indian Face before you’d be in trouble on a fall. This route only has one, shallow, flared and in quite soft rock.Unfortunately there’s no way I could lead this slab with any kind of margin. It’s a full on, all out desperate slap, scream and wobble fest to get through the crux. And that’s on a top rope. The landing looks like it might only dish out broken legs. It’s only a 40 foot route. But the chances of a scary tumble would be high. Thought provoking… I can’t decide if it’s a good thing that the forecast looks rubbish until I go to Spain.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3462131459512049233?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/_l7xhRAbwYA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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5 Climbs, 5 Islands part 2 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xeT-5kxYeBo/5-climbs-5-islands-part-2.html)
26 October 2010, 2:21 pm
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Stac Lee, St Kilda looking amazing
Quick reminder to tune into the second part of our 5 Climbs, 5 Islands adventure tonight, 7pm, BBC2 Scotland, Sky 990, Freesat 970 and iPlayer for streaming or downloading later if you miss it. There seems to have been a wee delay before the download comes online on iplayer after the scheduled showing ends so don’t fret if you can’t get it immediately.Tonight we are on Lewis, Great Bernera and on a mission out to St Kilda.
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Heading into no man’s land on St Kilda
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-169138759362014836?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xeT-5kxYeBo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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More adventures like this... (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/XI0Qd8CnYcc/more-adventures-like-this.html)
30 October 2010, 5:52 pm
Thanks to everyone (there was a LOT) who sent me a message to say you really enjoyed the 5 Climbs, 5 Islands programmes. Episode 2 is still on BBC iPlayer for a few days. If you miss it, it’ll be on DVD soon so don’t worry.Watching it myself reminded me how much this type of adventure is really what I like and hope I can keep doing them as long as I’m still around. A lot of folk commented about how I did like to try as hard routes as possible on this type of thing - that’s totally true. I totally need to feel that I might not be able to do it, or even more that I actually can’t do it, but learn along the way how to figure out how to make it work. That process of focusing in and getting really absorbed in the task in hand seems to be hardwired in me. I don’t know exactly where it comes from. I get very frustrated and wrestless when there is a barrier between me and focusing properly on the task. I find it pretty hard to accept that things upset progress and take that in my stride. I tend to respond by going even deeper into the obsessive zone. Climbing yields really well under this approach, which is pretty much the core reason why I got better at it slowly. Up to a point it works really well in other fields too, but at a big cost.It leads to a funny situation in that as a climbing coach I spend most of my time trying to encourage people to adopt this approach, but a lot of my adult life has been spent trying to blunt it myself. The Triple 5 programmes and The Great Climb I hope gave a decent insight into how these things work out in climbing. On that day my normal focus was totally destroyed every time I put my mashed up ankle on a foothold. Half of me wanted to give up and half of me wanted to shut it out and keep climbing. So ‘machine’ mode won out and I just went a bit quiet and kept grabbing holds til we were on top. It seemed to me that Tim had pretty much the same experience on the soaking wet finishing pitch. It would have been very very easy to admit defeat then.The experiences of this summer made me think again about the big one - my project of freeing the original aid line of the Longhope Route on Orkney. If ever there was a climb that demanded and would reward the obsessive approach it’s that one. Perfect really. After this year’s shortlived trips up there I realised I probably wasn’t good enough to do it last year, or this. But I’m still learning a lot about the tactics and training needed to make it work. Looking forward to standing underneath it again next summer with fresh energy to throw at it.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7601632214105397999?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/XI0Qd8CnYcc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Anti-slabs in Margalef (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MbRXIegHvmw/anti-slabs-in-margalef.html)
12 November 2010, 5:52 pm
After a summer of climbing a lot of slabs, I’ve been climbing for the last two weeks in the giant roofs of Margalef. Here’s a wee clip of climbing and 8b and 8c (might be 8c+ now after I broke a crucial hold) in the roof of Sector Finestra. These are definitely not slabs!Part of the fun of climbing here right now is it’s good therapy for an injury I picked up recently. More on this over on my Online Climbing Coach blog here. (http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/11/injury-therapy-in-margalef.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6105912619162819758?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MbRXIegHvmw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Die by the Drop E10 7a (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mIuY8pbM-KI/die-by-drop-e10-7a.html)
12 November 2010, 6:02 pm
After a a couple of weeks of October deluge in the highlands, the mountains had turned an amazing bright gold colour lit up by a rare morning of sunshine. I took my chance and headed out to Glenfinnan with Kev (http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.com/) for a look at the slab. I was off to Spain that evening, so it was worth going for a look even just for a few hours. On arrival at Lochailort and inspection of the slab through my binoculars, it was still soaking. Over several brews in Arisaig’s caf’, we discussed how precious it was to be have dry days on mountain crag projects in Scotland. It had been over two weeks of waiting since our last day at the slab, and I realised it would over three before I could come back again after a trip away and some work for sponsors. The discussion was ringing in my ears when we arrived at the crag at noon to find my E10 project almost dry. It isn’t a long route so I there were no excuses about needing to work sections of it anymore. I knew exactly what to do and that it would never be any easier to lead than today. So why not? Well, because the knowledge of the moves meant I knew how easy it would be to fall. A desperate snatch for a thumb press and another for a poor smear were definitely low percentage moves, above a sole microwire in dubious rock and a couple of comedy skyhooks in a flake you could pull off with the same force as you’d need to open a fridge door.I guess I was in the right frame of mind, so I led it anyway. Of course the inevitable happened and everything went wrong on the crux. I caught the thumb press but at the same time my toes seemed to buckle on a tiny smear and my body arched backwards. In that breath, I fully expected to fall. But at least I also fully accepted I was committed. So survival instinct could fully kick in and I pressed down into the crimp I’d locked to my knee level with strength you only get above an unprotected drop. That was enough to escape the impending splat and I pressed on, wobbling like jelly, all the way to the top.What a great experience and I must say I felt a lot better after it and that I’d decided to go for it. It’s a slab so who knows what bloody grade to give it? I know there are some hard slabs out there, and I also know I’m an awful slab climber. So all I can really do is compare it to recent slabs and other trad routes I’ve climbed: Harder than Indian Face & Walk of Life? Check. Harder than If Six Was Nine? Check. Harder than Muy Caliente? Check. Etc etc... So maybe it scrapes into E10 7a. PS: Will post up some video stills and pics when I’m home from Spain.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6159457906536163428?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mIuY8pbM-KI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Pinnacle DVD is here (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/8SYpORyMdNw/pinnacle-dvd-is-here.html)
18 November 2010, 11:54 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Pinnacle.jpg)Hot Aches Productions DVD about our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis is ready. Tomorrow (Friday) I’m at the premiere of the film in Kendal and will be picking up our DVD stock from Diff there and dispatching orders when we come home on Monday. It’s up in the shop to order if you want a copy, right here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/pinnacle.html).In case you missed my previous posts (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2010/02/marshall-smith-challenge-success.html) about our week, this is what all the fuss is about: In 1960 Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith, probably the best ice climbers anywhere at the time completed a week of back to back first ascents of cutting edge ice routes on Ben Nevis. The first one-day ascent of Point Five Gully, first ascents of Pigott’s Route, Smith’s Route, The Great Chimney, Minus 3 Gully, Orion Face Direct and a traverse of the Grey Corries as their ‘rest day’. It was a massive step forward and took the generation behind them a good decade and the development of modern ice tools to catch up. Step cutting these routes day after day was a fantastic feat of skill and endurance. It became a bit of a legend in Scottish climbing, to say the least.Hence, 50 years later, to the day, myself and Andy Turner felt it would be great to go and repeat the week of climbs and make a film about it with Hot Aches Productions. We had a great night after our week with Jimmy Marshall himself, talking about the week at the Fort William Mountain Festival (which you’ll find as an extra on the DVD along with an extensive interview with Jimmy who is now 82). Since then, Paul Diffley has been preparing the edit of the film itself.It recounts the story of Jimmy and Robin’s adventure and achievement, shows off the routes and the Ben itself rather beautifully I think. It did help that we had a stunning week of weather on our re-enactment.Hope you enjoy it as much as we enjoyed making it.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S3aTAG93dYI/AAAAAAAACGM/c2-5XCEiV54/s400/DSCF8257.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/S3aTAG93dYI/AAAAAAAACGM/c2-5XCEiV54/s400/DSCF8257.jpg)
About to top out on Point Five Gully during our re-enactment of the Smith-Marshall week on Ben Nevis.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1608413529670557562?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/8SYpORyMdNw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Pinnacle wins at Kendal (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hu6XFwEvWyU/pinnacle-wins-at-kendal.html)
23 November 2010, 1:21 am
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Pinnacle.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Pinnacle.jpg)I’m just home from the Kendal Mountain festival where I had a great couple of nights speaking about The Pinnacle film (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/pinnacle.html) and The Great Climb. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/greatclimb.html) The Pinnacle won the People’s Choice prize for the best film at the festival - thanks for voting for it!It’s great that people liked it so much. It was a great vibe at the premiere and watching the film for the first time I just felt so glad that we were able to make it. I think Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith’s story is as inspiring as ever and the film shows off Ben Nevis at it’s absolute best.Diff gave me a pile of Pinnacle DVDs to take home and Claire has just dispatched all the pre-orders today. I had a watch of the extras this morning, which include our live show with myself and Andy Turner talking with Jimmy at last year’s Fort William Mountain Festival, Diff’s full uncut interview with Jimmy for the film, and also Heatherhat’s film about my first ascent of Don’t Die of Ignorance (XI,11) with Joe French on the Ben. All the info about the DVD is in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/pinnacle.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-216189481091627846?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/hu6XFwEvWyU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Great Climb & Triple 5 DVD’s have arrived (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/OqiPjNfZVIw/great-climb-triple-5-dvds-have-arrived.html)
23 November 2010, 1:28 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TOsXr1uWy8I/AAAAAAAACcA/L2ZnmGkXoJQ/s1600/GREAT-CLIMB-blog.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TOsXr1uWy8I/AAAAAAAACcA/L2ZnmGkXoJQ/s1600/GREAT-CLIMB-blog.jpg)The DVDs of our live BBC Great Climb and also the Triple 5 (5 Climbs, 5 Islands) programmes are ready and Cameron McNeish is dropping them in to me later this morning. I’ve put them up in the shop just now.The Great Climb DVD comes as a 3xDVD set with the full 6 hour programme of the first ascent of The Usual Suspects E9 7a, including an option to listen with or without the television commentary, extra footage from the climb such as the roof section on Pitch 4 of our route and extras about the background and making of the programme. It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/greatclimb.html)(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TOsX0jY95GI/AAAAAAAACcE/uAtFgkgIetM/s1600/Triple-Five-blog.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TOsX0jY95GI/AAAAAAAACcE/uAtFgkgIetM/s1600/Triple-Five-blog.jpg)The Triple 5 DVD comes as a 2xDVD set of a longer cut of the film with extra climbing, interview and background footage. The ‘5 Climbs, 5 Islands’ programmes that went out on the BBC was 2 hour cut. The DVD is a 3.5 hour cut so could go into more depth about the climbs we did during the challenge and our approaches to climbing in general. It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/triple5.html)I noticed at Kendal that a lot of folk wanted their DVD signed. If you would like that when ordering from the shop, just ask! Write in the ‘Special instructions to merchant’ field of the checkout page.Hope you enjoy them.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5964522750437682607?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/OqiPjNfZVIw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Die by the Drop pics + another new E8 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MEUi6j5HSJ8/die-by-drop-pics-another-new-e8.html)
26 November 2010, 12:45 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO7_Xgpbd3I/AAAAAAAACcI/_8GumDmFDoQ/s1600/CreaturesofhabitSuzydevey.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO7_Xgpbd3I/AAAAAAAACcI/_8GumDmFDoQ/s1600/CreaturesofhabitSuzydevey.jpg)
Apophenia E8 7a - Taking each move as it comes on the crux section. Photo: © Suzy Devey
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO7_r0Aq5rI/AAAAAAAACcM/NiKjU6D--xA/s1600/Diebythedrop1SMALL.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO7_r0Aq5rI/AAAAAAAACcM/NiKjU6D--xA/s1600/Diebythedrop1SMALL.jpg)
Above and below: Die By the Drop E10 7a (video stills)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8AazmVlhI/AAAAAAAACcU/o44IPFVAGuw/s1600/diebythedrop2small.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8AazmVlhI/AAAAAAAACcU/o44IPFVAGuw/s1600/diebythedrop2small.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8ADLrw9aI/AAAAAAAACcQ/ZRiVhBLmJm0/s1600/diebythedrop3small.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8ADLrw9aI/AAAAAAAACcQ/ZRiVhBLmJm0/s1600/diebythedrop3small.jpg)
Man it’s great to be home after a week on the road on one stage or another. I’ve come home to a great spell of weather which has halted work on my book but been great for cragging. Yesterday I returned to Donald’s slab in Glenfinnan with Donald himself and the keen gang for a great session in crisp winter sun. Kev (http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.com/) dispatched Donald’s E5 ‘Frustration’ in a smooth lead, if you can call one shaky skyhook a lead rather than a solo.Afterwards I started up the remaining project on lead, with a lump in my throat. It has 2 microwires for gear which is twice as many runners as Die By the Drop just to the left. But the crux is a pure balance move without really anything useful for the hands to apply ‘do or die’ finger strength to if you don’t climb it perfectly on the lead.As it was, although I had a bit of mishap with lead ropes behind heels on ‘the move’, I felt good on it in the superb conditions after the sun had dropped. Still, ‘Apophenia' still felt like a solid E8 7a to me. I suppose it might be a good idea to sharpen some ice axes soon? What do you do when conditions are perfect for bouldering, sport, hard trad and winter all at the same time? It’s a hard life. Some more photos below of the action yesterday. I'm editing some film of these ascents just now too.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BBBtIx_I/AAAAAAAACcY/urwtRpY-k-Q/s1600/P1000325.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BBBtIx_I/AAAAAAAACcY/urwtRpY-k-Q/s1600/P1000325.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BL1AdvwI/AAAAAAAACcc/2Hu_Sv-pzGc/s1600/P1000319.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BL1AdvwI/AAAAAAAACcc/2Hu_Sv-pzGc/s1600/P1000319.jpg)
Suzy enjoying the lovely light for photography
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BYGEoNRI/AAAAAAAACcg/I7i2EShFfik/s1600/P1000341.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BYGEoNRI/AAAAAAAACcg/I7i2EShFfik/s1600/P1000341.jpg)
Kev, solid on the sharp end of ‘Frustration’ E5 6a
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BzPNKBmI/AAAAAAAACco/1Bcitg7wMDs/s1600/P1000310.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8BzPNKBmI/AAAAAAAACco/1Bcitg7wMDs/s1600/P1000310.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8B8UC7nKI/AAAAAAAACcs/ycRrUyz01fo/s1600/P1000309.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TO8B8UC7nKI/AAAAAAAACcs/ycRrUyz01fo/s1600/P1000309.jpg)
Lovely afternoon at Steall the other day
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4860010303794597716?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MEUi6j5HSJ8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New 8b at Steall, Glen Nevis (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PqwdLSk1rSw/since-conditions-got-kinda-frozen-last.html)
28 November 2010, 9:16 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TPLC9YW87QI/AAAAAAAACcw/UyQlLYHak4A/s1600/steal+ice.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TPLC9YW87QI/AAAAAAAACcw/UyQlLYHak4A/s1600/steal+ice.jpg)
Since the conditions got kinda frozen last week I was eager to see if the drips of Steall would freeze at source and allow me to see off an obvious link-up project. A few months ago I did a new 8a+ called The Gurrie, between Leopold and Steall Appeal. So named because I started up it only intending to work out the first 4 moves off the deck and ended up growling and scuffling my way through the crux bulge to the chain.The obvious link was to take in the second crux of Steall Appeal to bump it to soft 8b. Once I’d worked a sequence around the icicles at the top, I stuck my handwarmer ‘teabag’ in the chalkbag and got it done. Video below:
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8976340476449092829?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PqwdLSk1rSw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Couple of videos: Pinnacle Trailer and the cave (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/uOVqCsu56YI/couple-of-videos-pinnacle-trailer-and.html)
3 December 2010, 2:45 pm
Here is the trailer for The Pinnacle DVD, ice climbing on Ben Nevis following in the footsteps of Smith and Marshall. Brilliant for the winter psyche!The DVD is in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/pinnacle.html)
This is an extended clip of Michael making a determined second ascent of my own problem Bone Broke (Font 7c) in the Arisaig Cave last week. The wee fire was great, shame the wind was blowing it into the cave for the full winter cave dwelling experience!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1033330351760949733?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/uOVqCsu56YI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Too steep for dry snow.. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/un4PHyNDEWI/too-steep-for-dry-snow.html)
11 December 2010, 8:04 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TQPYqbyeKoI/AAAAAAAACc8/vY61f59OU8s/s1600/P1000365.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TQPYqbyeKoI/AAAAAAAACc8/vY61f59OU8s/s1600/P1000365.jpg)
Michael on some nice ice, on the way to look at some steepness and then abseil off.It’s been an up and down couple of weeks. I tried training hard but ended up annoying an arm muscle and having to back off just when psyche levels were getting very high. I must admit I got a bit fed up after that and put my energy into various writing tasks I’m working on. A lot of work got done, and now my arms are feeling ready for some training again. So it's worked out well.I went with Michael to look at a winter project, a very steep one. But it’s 45 degree steepness meant it was the only route on the cliff not in condition. ARRRGH! Next time.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8057078747384239230?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/un4PHyNDEWI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Christmas orders (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/P8D19Z5nwDQ/christmas-orders.html)
17 December 2010, 2:19 am
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg)More and more of you are asking each day about our last posting dates for Christmas from our shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html). Claire is dispatching every day as usual, via Royal Mail. If you’re ordering within the UK then you ought to get your order in by last thing Monday night (20th) to make sure it’s there before Christmas. Please be aware things are sometimes taking a little longer as Royal Mail still seem to be delayed in a few places by the snowy weather. We’re expecting new stock of the Mountain Equipment Pro-team T-shirts (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainequipmenttee.html) later today and will put all the sizes up in the shop as soon as they arrive. We've been out of men's sizes in these for ages and I know lots of you asked when they were coming back.(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/GREAT-CLIMB-DVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/GREAT-CLIMB-DVD.jpg)As always, if you want anything signed, just ask, in the special instructions field of the PayPal checkout. Thanks to everyone who’s ordered from us recently. Claire’s been doing a great job in the office getting everything out in double quick time every morning.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8188174344074393157?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/P8D19Z5nwDQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mountain Equipment Ts are here (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/w-8cbLFJuSE/mountain-equipment-ts-are-here.html)
28 December 2010, 6:15 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg)Our fresh stock of Mountain Equipment Pro-Team T-shirts arrived just before Christmas. It’s a short run from ME and we are due to get more sometime in the spring. But just to say the current lot are selling fast, so if you want one get it now. There are 3 male mediums left at the moment!Claire has added chest sizes for them on their page in the shop so you can be sure which size is right. We have been impressed with the quality of the new run of T-shirts, great quality organic cotton and a little ‘heavier’ cotton and crisper print than the previous batches. In the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainequipmenttee.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7005942695580696477?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/w-8cbLFJuSE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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All happening (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/zoZnGDd4Nc0/all-happening.html)
28 December 2010, 6:16 pm
Happy Christmas everyone. It’s been all happening for me - ups and downs. First up I have been in the foundation stages of next years training, putting in four or five hours a day on my board, doing my moves and exercises. My body feels great apart from a core stabiliser muscle in my trunk which is causing some pain and concern. More on this later. As much as this could get in the way of immediate performances on cliffs, it’s letting me get on with the much needed work of preparing my body for next year’s objectives. For the last couple of years I’ve been quite focused on short term objectives, hence not doing any hard routes, just lots of ‘easy’ ones. Not easy of course, just easy enough to do in a couple of days. Two E10s, three E9s and a good few E8s this year. I’m ready for a big one or two routes again. And that means short term sacrifice.I’ve made several changes to my training, which are going great so far. I’m excited for next year. After training I’ve also been doing a ton of reading about training and about injury rehabilitation as I continue to work hard on my book Rock ‘Til You Drop. It’s fascinating. There is so much to learn. But I must admit it’s been hard to sleep. I’ve got the information coming out of my ears by the time I go to bed. Usually 3am at the moment.On our way home from Christmas in Glasgow, we briefly became accident statistics. After sticking below 40mph all the way from Glasgow in sleet and snow in Claire’s 4x4, a ridiculous stretch of black ice took control of the car on Rannoch Moor. I managed about 5 anti-steers back and forth, keeping the car facing ‘forward’ (roughly) for about 200 or more yards. But it was useless and I had time to apologise to Claire and receive her acceptance as we spun a few more times and were finally deposited in the ditch. A winch and a couple of hundred quid later, we drove home, at jogging pace. Thanks to the lads who tried to help us get the car out under our own steam. I have your snow shovel. Drop me a line and I can send it back.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6977970348806282497?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/zoZnGDd4Nc0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Diagnosis, sort of (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/yze9UAXQ6o0/diagnosis-sort-of.html)
2 January 2011, 10:07 pm
Today I got up, drove a few hundred miles, saw the physio, then the doctor, dowloaded about 20 research papers and read various relevant chapters from the textbook tower. Stuff it. After the diagnosis I’m breaking open the Christmas biscuit tin from Marks and Spencers and necking a few cups of tea before I head into the wall for training.
As suspected over the last three weeks it seems likely I have annoyed/torn the aponeurosis of my external oblique. In other words a ‘sportsman’s hernia’. Damnit. Just a little niggling pain on cutting loose which disappears once warmed up. But I don’t want it getting any worse. And if the surgeon confirms it in a couple of weeks time I might need a wee bit of ‘invasive’ treatment involving knives, bits of polypropylene mesh and my abdominal wall. I’m going to bite the bullet and get a private consultation to make sure I get prompt treatment from the right person. They told me dourly on the phone to “bring my credit card” Gulp!
Causes? Who knows… Could have been the roof aiding mission in prep for the Great Climb. Could have been over energetic wood chopping, or heavy rucksacks, or training, or genes or whatever. Lessons for others - don’t let rectus abdominus (six pack) get too strong while neglecting the obliques. Don’t train when you’re knackered. Don’t carry three ropes and three racks up a mountain in one go. Chop wood like a samurai, not a caveman. Actually I’m sure even cavemen would be disgusted at my technical prowess with the splitting axe.
At least it’s still a small problem. I’m set on keeping it that way. I’ll let you know how it goes. In the meantime, I felt stronger on my board than I’ve ever done last night. All I need to do is keep my feet on and all is fine!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8272149772890198494?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/yze9UAXQ6o0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Evidence of improvement (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/DE5hlz0bZXE/evidence-of-improvement.html)
2 January 2011, 10:09 pm
With the crags looking drier I went out rock climbing for the first time in several weeks today, to my project next to Sky Pliot, Glen Nevis. I’ve totally enjoyed the past three weeks of focused training and writing. I feel like I already have a good base of strength for the coming year.
That project was ideal as a wee tester of how I was getting on after this little spell of uninterrupted training. At my strongest ever, in October 2009, I was getting up to the crux with difficulty, and could do the crux move in isolation a few times in a session. I had just done an intense month of training on my board then as well. But right as I was going my best I made a couple of training errors and got injured. I never went back to Sky Pilot, not feeling strong enough really.
I’m pretty sure the project is at least V14 and I know I need to be a few percentage points above that 2009 strength highpoint to be in with a chance. Most of 2010 was taken up with trad, partly because that just what I fancied doing, and partly because I was still struggling a bit with one or two injuries. I normally spent the whole autumn, winter and spring bouldering, but I only started in December this year.
But armed with the knowledge I’ve gained about elbow injuries from the past year of study and all the physio work I’ve done, I’m feeling able to train at full pace for the first time in over two years. I can’t tell you how nice it is to be limited by full body tiredness from training instead of going at the pace of injured tendons. It’s also great to be able to move with confidence too.
So today it was great to feel as strong as I’ve ever felt on the rock. On a few of the moves I maybe felt a little stronger than before. But nothing dramatic. I feel like I’ve just caught up my bouldering strength to where it was. More weeks on the board are needed. Days where you realise some real progress has been made are still the best.
Well excited.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5652501382614032091?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/DE5hlz0bZXE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mega training session (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/h97VIXss7hA/mega-training-session.html)
7 January 2011, 12:11 pm
Yesterday we completed our journey home from my lecture in Shrewsbury and we were both feeling kinda knackered. But after two days enforced rest, mostly spent driving, I was in severe training withdrawal.The rest had certainly allowed my body to bounce back from the previous long stint of daily training. I had my strongest session ever, climbing all my hardest problems on the board in one session. Three weeks ago, I was barely managing any of them. Brilliant. I gouged my finger open from a loss of concentration while going for a sharp hold and bled everywhere. Emerging from the boardroom at 1am half covered in blood seemed a fitting end to a mega training session. Bring on today’s session.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1506357173748517235?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/h97VIXss7hA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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May be spared the knife? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SYGQl8XnHpU/may-be-spared-knife.html)
21 January 2011, 1:47 pm
The consultant reckons I have an internal oblique tear but the damage is in the muscle belly or MT junction, so I may yet be spared surgery. Good news, although I’m not 100% convinced he’s right. For now at least it’s an all clear to try some winter climbing and see how I get on. Meanwhile I still feel good in training, although cabin fever is reaching breaking point. It’s amazing how daily exposure to the outdoors and empty spaces becomes so hardwired it drives you quite nuts in even the most temporary withdrawal from it. I sometimes say in lectures that I love training so much that if I was somehow restricted to only climbing on my board I wouldn’t mind too much. Hmmm, maybe that’s not true after all! It’s nice to know that a balance of both keep mind and body healthy.That said, aside from the finger strength gains, the time at home has been great to get everything in order for the coming year. It’s so true that if you don’t take time to sort stuff out and get organised, it tends to get in the way later on when you need to be in full focus.
I'm an obsessive type and cant stand to leave things unfinished unless it's unavoidable (hence I have a respectable ticklist in redpointing). But that's only half of it. I remember listening to the Forum's 60 second ideas to improve the world while driving down Glenfinnan and one related very strongly with me. It was to abstain from multitasking! I do my fair share of multitasking and occasionally it's totally the thing to do, such as when working with slow computers or mundane tasks. But most of the time, it actually slows everything down rather than adding efficiency. And usually, you end up with crap work into the bargain.
People often roll their eyes, or criticise my all or nothing, drop everything else approach. But I must say that every accomplishment I've made in my life has come via this approach. I'm addicted to it and have yet to find a better substitute for focus.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2336388296227820487?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SYGQl8XnHpU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Seismic shifts in Lochaber (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/YbfRamWnf-A/seismic-shifts-in-lochaber.html)
24 January 2011, 8:54 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TT3mIiU02FI/AAAAAAAACdE/dZ8TwqNKstU/s320/Picture+1.png) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TT3mIiU02FI/AAAAAAAACdE/dZ8TwqNKstU/s1600/Picture+1.png)
My alarm had just gone off at 6am and I was working up to getting myself moving after another late night working till 2 when there was a bump in the night. Well, more of a shaking. As everything around us started to shake more and more, we looked at each other and Claire was the first to come out and say “Is that an earthquake!?”A bit of vibration was all it was and it took the BBC news later on to confirm it was indeed an earthquake of 3.4 magnitude. Their news report said some peoples cats around Lochaber had gone mad. Ours wasn’t fussed at all, but I’m not sure what that says about the cat...(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TT3m5DZyh5I/AAAAAAAACdI/_NRvsTzLdMo/s400/ME+training.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TT3m5DZyh5I/AAAAAAAACdI/_NRvsTzLdMo/s1600/ME+training.jpg)
On Carn Mor Dearg yesterday with the Mountain Equipment winter skills course.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3389636839449550935?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/YbfRamWnf-A)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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First winter route of the season (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/VLflWrPgFvM/first-winter-route-of-season.html)
30 January 2011, 11:04 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtAkB3IDI/AAAAAAAACdM/64kRysNSJAo/s400/P1000482.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtAkB3IDI/AAAAAAAACdM/64kRysNSJAo/s1600/P1000482.jpg)
Fine high pressure weather on Ben Nevis this week
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtCQJhPfI/AAAAAAAACdQ/Wyf1-AtPWDQ/s400/P1000494.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtCQJhPfI/AAAAAAAACdQ/Wyf1-AtPWDQ/s1600/P1000494.jpg)
Snow bunting enjoying the views and climbers sandwiches on the summit
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtEJE9HXI/AAAAAAAACdU/Uw1qABBh3-Y/s400/P1000508.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtEJE9HXI/AAAAAAAACdU/Uw1qABBh3-Y/s1600/P1000508.jpg)
Lovely morning in Observatory Gully
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtH6S0dJI/AAAAAAAACdc/1CCOpFUbhzQ/s400/P1000517.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtH6S0dJI/AAAAAAAACdc/1CCOpFUbhzQ/s1600/P1000517.jpg)
Ines leads off up an excellent thin ice slab on Triple X VIII, 8
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtKs3NcyI/AAAAAAAACdg/TdIm3X8SI84/s400/P1000528.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtKs3NcyI/AAAAAAAACdg/TdIm3X8SI84/s1600/P1000528.jpg)
With physio exercises commenced on my hernia I felt OK to try a day out winter climbing. So I teamed up with Ines Papert and Charly who are visiting Scotland and headed up the Ben. After a brief wander about with me pointing out various new route possibilites, we settled on a look at a new icy mixed line based on the summer route Rolling Stones.Charly set off, getting past a slightly sketchy thin crux bulge and embarked on a long traverse above our heads. It looked tricky. It was kind of bold to second as well as lead after I (being last on the rope) took out the backrope runner at the start of the traverse.Next up it was Ines’ turn and she headed off across a very thinly iced slab which looked great fun. Ines was looking very at home on the ice and we enjoyed following a lot more than the previous pitch.Last up it was my turn and I joined Ian Small and Ian Parnell’s new route from last year, Faith Healer VIII,7 at the start of it’s crux pitch. The steep chimney was great fun and nice to be reacquainted with the absorption of winter leading again after ten months or so since I last wielded my ice tools on a mixed route.Triple X, VIII,8 gave us three nice pitches and satisfied an urge to open a new line on this nice little face that I’d spied while wandering about near Echo Wall in the past.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtNFZpVJI/AAAAAAAACdk/3mFBKA8F-8E/s400/Triple-X-topo1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NCwOS2t65Sw/TUXtNFZpVJI/AAAAAAAACdk/3mFBKA8F-8E/s1600/Triple-X-topo1.jpg)
The line of Triple X
Next day it was back in action on the bouldering front. I managed to do the crux move on my highball project in Glen Nevis again which is getting me excited. I feel like I have a good sequence for most of it now and all I’m needing is a few more kgs worth of raw crimping strength. Next week’s forecast looks good for concentrating on the crimping strength, rather than braving the storms...
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6043385190670239886?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/VLflWrPgFvM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Training diary (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/2g7Vd8s9oGA/training-diary.html)
13 February 2011, 3:48 pm
Training was going damn great until today. A finger is hurting so hence I am writing instead of training today.
In the last week I’ve been starting to experiment with having two sessions a day for the first time in over a year. I’ll need to introduce them gently! My routine at the moment is a good couple of hours of shoulder and hip flexibility and end-range holding work to kick things off, then my usual injury rehab exercises (various), then get on the board. I’ve not managed to reproduce 100% of my best ever form about two months ago, but then I’ve been going at it quite hard with little rest, so I wouldn’t expect to anyway. After a full boulder session it’s onto the circuits but I’m still in the early stages of these and not really had any gains to speak of. In six weeks time it should be different!
I’ve had a couple of days off training here and there, going winter climbing and going to some classes (more on that soon). It’s been interesting last week to try pull-ups again this week. I’ve not really done a complete pull-up in over two years since I injured my elbow. But now they are almost completely better I thought it was safe to see how I was. WEAK! I can still do one complete one-arm on either arm, but well down on my PB of 5 before I got injured. It just shows that it’s not important for rock climbing, but I know I’m certainly weak on ice axes. My short term priority is to improve my full crimp strength for my boulder project in Glen Nevis. My thumbs have always been really weak.
I’ve got another 6 weeks or so until the boulder will be likely to be in condition. Ideally that means 30 sessions of hard crimping on the board between now and then. But things are never ideal as today has proved. I’ve just been writing about the messiness of ‘real life’ training on my training blog here. I’m not expecting success on the boulder when the spring comes. It’s so hard for me that any progress will be brilliant. But although I’m not expecting success, I’m sure aiming for it! After that I’ll try and ramp up the endurance work to try a sport project I have - hard 9a. I’ve done the moves. F8c+ into a Font 8a/8a+. Maybe too hard? Let’s find out. All I know is if I get a good run at these projects, the trad lines for summer will finally fall.
The key to all this is maintaining that good base of uninterrupted training right now. Roll on tomorrows session..
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7137859325558297997?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/2g7Vd8s9oGA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Asgard Jamming review (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/BjldqgX6QCo/asgard-jamming-review.html)
21 February 2011, 1:43 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/asgardjammingdvd.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/asgardjammingdvd.jpg)While on a rest day on a trip recently I watched the Asgard Jamming DVD and liked it so much I’ve been meaning ever since to get some copies in from the Favresse bros for the webshop. I got round to it!
I think even if you have no intention of ever climbing a big wall never mind walking 600km in a single trip just to get to Mount Asgard, you’ll find this film very entertaining. It’s certainly the best piece of big wall filming I’ve seen. It follows Nico and Oliver Favresse, together with Sean Villanueva, Stephane Hanssens and Silvia Vidal on a brilliant adventure to Baffin Island and after their epic approach, 11 days of fine looking climbing on the wall.It totally reminds you why you go climbing, how much fun it can be and how exciting things can get when you really go for it. Nico’s looong whipper that you see the first half of in the trailer is great viewing. When not entertaining us with hardcore granite pitches, the mandolin toting Belgians are showing us how to have a party on a big wall in style and generally make a massive big wall look like 11 days cragging, except with a drop of justice underneath. Great stuff!It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/asgardjamming.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-393255453968430442?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/BjldqgX6QCo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Freida MacLeod arrives (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Kzl75s5Kr3A/freida-macleod-arrives.html)
21 February 2011, 1:48 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5MZr_zrRitQ/TWJsdvlu9VI/AAAAAAAACds/jq4WAXzHYXU/s400/Freida+MacLeod.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5MZr_zrRitQ/TWJsdvlu9VI/AAAAAAAACds/jq4WAXzHYXU/s1600/Freida+MacLeod.jpg)
On Tuesday, our daughter Freida MacLeod was born. Claire and I are over the moon. Last night, we came home from hospital after a rough week for Claire and all MacLeods promptly passed out for a much needed sleep, not that it lasted.A healthy chubster at 8lb, 3 ounces, I wonder what adventures are coming her way in life, with a mum who jumps out of planes for fun and a dad who climbs cliffs and generally lives life in the elemental outdoors and mountains. I’m certainly happy that we’ve been able to get to where we are in time for her arrival - a house that is surrounded by nature to grow up in. It’s really lucky, for all of us. An extra cup of tea was certainly in order before the days training session today. But I don’t think I’ll ever suffer from lack of focus to fire off a bleary eyed training session. The highs of watching a new life arrive certainly reawaken the sense of need to get the most out it. Baby bouncer bolts are placed in the roof of the climbing wall for a bit of bouncing and swinging when Freida is ready for it.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3891603305254891355?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Kzl75s5Kr3A)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bounceback (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/z2szEDl0OQ0/bounceback.html)
26 February 2011, 2:05 am
It’s funny when you are feeling wasted how the little hole you’re in seems much deeper than it actually is.
Since Freida arrived last week, my non-climbing life has been fantastic. The best it’s ever been, despite the adjustments and sleep deprivation. But the importance of my climbing life doesn’t just go away. It doesn’t change at all, in fact. I used to think it was psychologically dangerous to be dependent on my lifelong habits of the outdoors, exercise and training I do through my climbing. As time went on I realised this was silly. I think eventually it becomes a part of of you that is hardwired. And thats fine. It is amazing it takes 30 odd years to realise it’s ok to be yourself!Naturally, I’ve put a lot of thought, work and planning into how to balance my climbing and non-climbing life. I’m certainly not perfect at it let me tell you. But I have been doing this all my adult life and it’s worked out well so far.
Some of this is really practical basic stuff - having a top-notch climbing wall next door to the nursery, living in the heart of the places I want to climb and having a flexible work schedule to take advantage of good conditions. These are the key ingredients for sure, and maybe the hardest to secure - over a decade of hard work for me. The others are more subtle. Yet despite the planning, I did get the fear last week after having several absolutely crap training sessions in a row. Sure, they were performed in a haze of sleepiness, but was tiredness really all it was? And even if so, is that it for the foreseeable? I could see, for about a nano second, while falling off a ridiculously easy circuit the other night, how someone could give in to tiredness and permanently lower their expectations in order to avoid such disappointment. I thought previous experiences might insulate me from this weakness. But it’s amazing how being knackered lowers your guard.
All very gloomy. Until it wasn’t... All that was needed was a little extra sleep. It’s being grabbed an hour here, an hour there. But add it up to a critical level and lo and behold, the performance returns. This week maybe I’m getting to grips with the new routine of snatched naps. And all of a sudden tonight the power returned to my arms like magic and I clawed my way up a couple of my hardest creations on the wall. I forgot how well the body adapts and bounces back to change. What a lift!
Yes Yes I know how silly this post might read to someone who doesn’t share the same addiction to training. And I know the challenges for me are nothing compared to Claire right now. But everyone has to have something to keep them keen. And for me it’s this. I’d rather go without food for a week than training. Since this is primarily a climber’s blog, I’m just going through the little ups and downs that go on while in the bubble of the climbing session. But once it’s done, I take off my rockshoes and go back to the important stuff - Claire and Freida!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5531478366280405354?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/z2szEDl0OQ0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Video: Climbing with Emmett in Pembroke by BD (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fEgc8eIOV9Y/video-climbing-with-emmett-in-pembroke.html)
27 February 2011, 3:14 pm
Nice little video from Black Diamond of myself and Tim Emmett climbing in Pembroke last autumn. I just finished writing a little story about the trip which will be up on BD’s site here (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/journal/climb/all/video-bd-athletes-dave-macleod-and-tim-emmett-climbing-in-pembroke-en-gb) later.
Dave MacLeod & Tim Emmett climbing sea cliffs in Pembroke, UK (http://vimeo.com/20296746) from Black Diamond Equipment (http://vimeo.com/blackdiamond) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5034559210119061000?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fEgc8eIOV9Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review: The Players DVD (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/0WsNtCDG7LA/review-players-dvd.html)
28 February 2011, 5:20 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/players.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/players.jpg)
Been meaning to post this for a while...
The Players is as you might have guessed a classic American sport/bouldering flick - hard climbers, lovely places and lovely climbs. And that’s it. Cool - so what’s it like? Well there aren’t any groundbreaking first ascents on a world scale, but obviously a LOT of impressive climbing from Sharma, Graham, and Woods and Rands. The real highlight is that we get to see a few more characters that we in the UK don’t see much of in climbing DVDs.Alex Puccio and Emily Harrington are two very contrasting but inspirational female climbers. It was great to see them included as there is still not so much footage of the living end of the female climbing elite. It was interesting to see footage of Joe Kinder on his repeats of the Tommy Caldwell 9a testpieces at the Fortress of Solitude. I was always intrigued by these routes as we haven't heard much about them outside the US, except that they sound hard. They looked hard too! Chris Linder deep water soloing in Vietnam and the machine that is Ethan Pringle walking up 5.14 trad headpoints are both entertaining. The shooting is not quite as grand as the Big Up blockbusters it will inevitably be compared to, but I felt I got to know the characters a little better without the larger than life sheen. I enjoyed watching a few times as I stretched out tight muscles before sessions on the board!
If you're keen for a copy, it's in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/players.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8188647751423126639?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/0WsNtCDG7LA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Must get light (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ri-7z8LC9qc/must-get-light.html)
4 March 2011, 9:37 pm
Two frustrating but still good days on my highball Glen Nevis project lately. A persistent split tip is demanding a break from tiny sharp crimps, just when conditions are getting brilliant. Nevertheless, I worked out some more sequence tricks and feel my arms and fingers have reasonable power. There’s only one ingredient left really - must make my body lighter. It’s getting close to time to switch from training to performance mode.Hey, I’m still nowhere near doing the thing. But I can see that I could be. Time to focus. For now, it’s laps on the board with split fingers taped. The moves feel brilliant - I can see they are starting to flow. I know I’m climbing them close to as well as I can, it’s just pure strength-weight ratio on the crux move now.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1240675855750863190?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ri-7z8LC9qc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review: Racing Weight quick start guide (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/E40uNM0PRPQ/review-racing-weight-quick-start-guide.html)
5 March 2011, 10:24 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/racingweightquickstartguide.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/racingweightquickstartguide.jpg)Matt Fitzgerald’s first text on weight optimisation for endurance athletes is a first in it’s field and understandably a best seller- it’s a rather essential book to have if you are a runner, cyclist or triathlete. Because there is so little well written and scientifically based information on weight management in sport generally, it’s also pretty essential reading for climbers too.There was only one snag - climbing is not an aerobic endurance sport. Some of the information in Racing Weight was directly applicable to climbers, but the bulk of it still needs some interpretation to shoehorn the principles onto a completely different activity.
On first glance I thought that Fitzgerald’s sequel - the Racing Weight Quick Start Guide might be not much more than a commercially led follow up with recipes and plans that follow directly from the ideas in the first book. Actually I think it could be better titled, as it’s not just that at all. ‘Quick Start’ actually refers to his ideas for weight loss at the start of a training cycle for endurance athletes. The whole premise of Racing Weight was that endurance athletes who dieted hard to get to their fighting weight would end up offsetting gains by the consequent loss of training intensity. However, even endurance athletes have time in the foundation phase of the new macrocycle where they can afford to absorb this, and they can adopt a more rapid weight loss program. This means a very different strategy. Conveniently, this fits in a lot better with the types of schedules climbers tend to do.
This book answered many (still not all!) of the lingering questions I had on weight management for resistance/anaerobic athletes like ourselves. Taking advantage of some key research findings in the past couple of years, together with his clear and very well constructed writing, Matt has produced another essential piece of digest for everyone whom this subject concerns. Most of the really ‘juicy’ scientific information that it’s in the first book fits into about 30 or 40 pages. But It’s well worth it for that understanding in my opinion. The extensive section on foods and choosing them for different situations is really excellent too, and I’m fairly sure the same information cannot be found anywhere else in such complete form and so well tailored to the intended audience.
I got some copies ordered for the shop straight away! It's right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/racingweightquickstartguide.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1644718374600746529?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/E40uNM0PRPQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Afternoon on Stob Ban (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/VRTRbfdfVvs/afternoon-on-stob-ban.html)
21 March 2011, 10:07 pm
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RYPC77l2OuU/TYfK83TZglI/AAAAAAAACeo/oqmKZsbX2KE/s400/P1000656.jpg) (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RYPC77l2OuU/TYfK83TZglI/AAAAAAAACeo/oqmKZsbX2KE/s1600/P1000656.jpg)
Hours of sleep have been gradually increasing over the past couple of weeks as Freida settles into life in the outside world of day and night. So I was keen to get more than just training done and make it out onto the hills before I missed the snow completely. I headed out by myself as early starts are a little hard work just now and went for a nice afternoon climbing something new on Stob Ban. Sadly my intended route was in the process of falling down due to the warm spring winds, so I headed off up the buttress with no particular aim except to enjoy the movement on snow, rock and turf. I mostly soloed, which I enjoyed a lot. But the rock was quite loose and turf not completely solid, so my rope and the little red belayer came out for a pitch.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bAc-NESx6ZA/TYfK-q_sROI/AAAAAAAACes/vdxdoDIVZMc/s400/P1000658.jpg) (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bAc-NESx6ZA/TYfK-q_sROI/AAAAAAAACes/vdxdoDIVZMc/s1600/P1000658.jpg)
Would be nice, but not today in plus 2!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Vn8WLkEigSE/TYfLANap4dI/AAAAAAAACew/pEQXLD-SdFE/s400/P1000661.jpg) (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Vn8WLkEigSE/TYfLANap4dI/AAAAAAAACew/pEQXLD-SdFE/s1600/P1000661.jpg)
Getting my rope-solo system a little more slick. Long way to go there...
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R3jvVK7E46o/TYfLBcHofVI/AAAAAAAACe0/v5UctD5SUDQ/s400/P1000664.jpg) (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R3jvVK7E46o/TYfLBcHofVI/AAAAAAAACe0/v5UctD5SUDQ/s1600/P1000664.jpg)
Back on the board, things have been going really good. I’ve managed to surpass my previous strength PB by a good margin and feeling highly excited for the coming rock season. The cumulative effect of simply clocking up the hours on the board all winter long seem to have prevailed. Excellent.Too early to test it on projects just yet. I tried today but ended up taking my climbing gear for a nice walk in the rain. I did nearly run over an Otter on the way home which was the highlight of the day (seeing it, that is!).
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3562835919296303514?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/VRTRbfdfVvs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Homing in (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iwbT5m4XO0Y/homing-in.html)
25 March 2011, 12:26 am
Best session yet on my highball project in Glen Nevis today. Wow it felt nice to be able to get up to that crux again, and this time have space to attack the move. Trouble was I think I need a session of getting used to falling from there so I can focus properly on sticking that sloper.
Thankfully I seemed to be missing the boulder in the landing zone and rolling in the grass. It didn’t help that I left a mat stashed at the crag from yesterday but someone had nicked it. I think a backwards fall onto that boulder could be a rib breaker without at least 4 pads. It’s a bit too much of a trek for 2 trips or carrying that many from the road. It sucks that you can’t leave a pad overnight well covered with rocks without someone nicking it. You always hope climbers wouldn’t do it. They even took the foot towel out of it and left that behind.
Tomorrow I’ll have a day of prep for the next session. Come on!! Time to home in and get down to proper battle. Still no idea if it’s realistic for me. I’ll only know once I stick the sloper if the next move isn’t totally impossible on the link. It feels limit for me on the rope, just having pulled on at the crux.
Soloing Sky Pilot next door I realised that falling on the British tech 6b territory above the crux is not an option. I’m not sure how I feel about going for it if I linked through the crux when there by myself. But then, you’d have to, wouldn’t you?
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2675285413038058147?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iwbT5m4XO0Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Within a move (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/149JHHiuYL4/within-move.html)
30 March 2011, 10:47 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u4Qcotm-EpY/TZOxuBFcg-I/AAAAAAAACe4/cFRs_nCaq5w/s640/P1000720.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u4Qcotm-EpY/TZOxuBFcg-I/AAAAAAAACe4/cFRs_nCaq5w/s1600/P1000720.jpg)
Holding the crux. A good feeling. Right now I’m totally locked on with my highball project in the glen. Progress has been superb and it’s gone from a distant prospect to feeling very possible in a short time, thanks to all that training.
It’s really at my limit though, so I have to accept that every good session might be the best before I lose ground. It doesn’t matter - I’m enjoying trying, a lot. It’s only when really committed in a die hard way to a project that the windows open up to learning new things. It surprises me that the learning doesn’t stop even though I’ve been here before - maximally motivated, maximally stretched and close to both success and failure all at the same time.It’s good for me to experience this on a hard boulder line for the first time in a few years - the levers of progress are so different from what I’m used to.
Over the past two years, I’ve not really been able to train as I’d like due to injury, so most of my climbs have been trad. I missed hard bouldering and hard boulder training intensely, and have relished the last four months of it. The past three sessions on the project have been the culmination of it. Last session, I held the crux sloper. Tonight, I touched the next hold. If I hold that, I’m on terrain where I would only fall If I made an stupid error, which is just as well as it’s getting into soloing territory up there!
On a boulder, so much extreme effort and focus is distilled into millisecond adjustments of movement and timing. There is very little room for finding what’s necessary during the climb itself. This is the land of the intuitive. Recording that you’ve made a movement decision only just keeps up with actually making the movement. Conscious thought is way too slow and clunky. But it’s not intuitive adjustment out of thin air. It’s adjustment of a model of how the move should go, and how the effort should be timed and focused that’s been refined hundreds of times in your mind. At the level where the real enjoyment comes, it’s a heuristic process of visualisation; you don’t always know why something is right, you just feel like it will be.
To illustrate this blog post, I scrolled through the video of the attempt, shot on my compact propped on a stone. Looking through it, frame by frame, it hit me that I have a record of several movement decisions in my mind’s recording of the move, for every frame of video. 30 frames/sec is too slow! How great is it that movement on rock is so subtle, and that the mind is so expertly geared up to analyse and refine it. You can see how it gets addictive eh? Hopefully I have the program sussed for that final hard move, and weather, and muscles allow me to get back to it in a few days time.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7689052399411898312?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/149JHHiuYL4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New wall in Oban (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/cXZTZzqraE0/new-wall-in-oban.html)
2 April 2011, 2:30 pm
(http://multimedia.getresponse.com/574/93574/photos/47246.jpg) (http://multimedia.getresponse.com/574/93574/photos/47246.jpg)
Checking the new climbs at Atlantis, Oban
Had a fun day working in Oban setting problems at the new bouldering wall in Oban at the Atlantis centre (http://www.facebook.com/atlantisleisure). The wall was built by the hard work machine that is Scott Muir and his company Dream Climbing Walls (http://www.dreamclimbingwalls.com/). He’s the only man I know that could give Tim Emmett a run for his money in terms of sheer overflow of physical energy. Modern climbing walls still amaze me - they are so good! It’s great how an intricate design of tapering or expanding shapes influence the constraints for setting really interesting moves. I guess the more experience you have as a climber, and especially as a route setter, the more you appreciate this. There is so much room for movement variety in climbing though, and for personal tastes. I’m not sure if it’s because I climb outside a lot and digest a lot of varied, undulating surfaces, but I’m often a fan of large areas of flat panels on climbing walls. I guess it’s just a nice change. The Oban wall is the best designed wall I’ve set on that has a complex shape. It’s weird - sometimes the shapes just don’t seem to work for making aesthetic climbing moves. This one does though! Looking forward to going back for my coaching sessions there soon. Much as the setting day was great fun, it did my head cold caught the day before no good at all. So it’s an extra rest day today before I’m back at Sky Pilot. Cubby reckons it’ll be soaking after the deluge, but I’ll show up anyway, armed with towels and ready for a training session on it..
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5357153453370118283?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/cXZTZzqraE0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New playgrounds (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZRuerK8x8cA/new-playgrounds.html)
4 April 2011, 7:59 pm
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5588577102_12239fb94b_z.jpg) (http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5588577102_12239fb94b_z.jpg)
A nod to the Flick Scotland blog (http://flickr-scotland.blogspot.com/2011/04/caledonia.html) for this aerial shot of the western highlands from the air above Glasgow. I blog it as it was pretty much the view that started me climbing, seen from the Queens View in the Kilpatrick hills in the lower right foreground of the shot. In mid April circa 1993 it looked exactly as it does here, a horizon full of endless snow capped mountains against a blue sky.I’d just cycled out from Glasgow and became aware of an altogether more impressive playground than any I’d seen so far. I got home and got a book out of the library about the Southern Highlands. In the appendix was a section about rock climbs at Dumbarton Rock. It was a few stops along the train line from my house. You know the rest..Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7364686068394984093?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZRuerK8x8cA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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April Showers, Scottish style (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qK6ELmTojTY/april-showers-scottish-style.html)
4 April 2011, 8:40 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mIMKjYg7W2A/TZooWN7ZdrI/AAAAAAAACe8/glZNwfSaTv4/s400/Glen+Nevis.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mIMKjYg7W2A/TZooWN7ZdrI/AAAAAAAACe8/glZNwfSaTv4/s1600/Glen+Nevis.jpg)
Fresh snow on Sgurr a’ Mhaim yesterdayAs predicted the west of Scotland deluge has been pounding Glen Nevis. Cubby and I squinted out of the car window just long enough for an eyeful of rain and sleet and sacked it off. But on the way home the end of the first front arrived, so I hung back and read my book for a bit and then walked in. Unbelievably the severe gales had seemingly blown a lot of the rain over the top of the crag and my project was mostly dry. As the sun came out I felt good and started trying to warm up.Today’s excuse quickly emerged from this. ‘warming up’ was not possible. The snowline was dropping with each shower that went through and the wind tunnel effect through the overhanging crag was doing great for drying it but sucking every bit of body heat out of me. I still had 7 good tries to the crux and feeling strong. But ‘glassy’ skin from the icy wind and numb fingers, together with a glassy crux sloper are not a good mix and I just couldn’t stick it. Rests between goes were spent cowering from wild blizzards of hail and snow passing through and chasing after mats and jackets picked up by the gale.Returning home I felt totally wrecked once again. Once on the couch I couldn’t move. Before the evening was out I noticed a ligament in my knee getting progressively more painful after a bad landing on one attempt. Not sure what’s going on there yet..Such is projecting. I’m close enough to only need one really good attempt. So I should keep the warpaint on. I think the continuing downpours will have the last word for now though. I’m expecting it’ll be wet until at least next week. So the debate is whether to go back to the board to try and top up strength levels. Or should I rest and be ready in case the rain isn’t so bad??Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1131619552412709015?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qK6ELmTojTY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Consistently not good enough (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qiZboCcDEAQ/consistently-not-good-enough.html)
11 April 2011, 11:14 pm
Today was the third session in a row of things just not being quite right for making progress on the project. Well, really I have made progress as a subtle change of beta should help tip the balance in my favour if I can get past the crux again. But the last time I managed that was about 18 attempts ago now! I feel close to doing the move every single time. Consistency is good except when it's consistently not good enough.For a collection of reasons I’ve been a couple of percent less strong. Bad skin, and just not feeling quite as steely as before for whatever reason have been the main problems. Another thing I’ve realised is that I’ve actually started to introduce some new errors unwittingly, by trying to control it too much. I’ve been convinced I need to pull as little as possible on the holds to save all the energy I can for the crux move. But it seems I’ve overdone it and caused myself some problems for getting my body set up in the right position for the big move. The last couple of sessions have been a little frustrating as the easier ground above seemed so close but now seems like it might still be unreachable. I’m hoping now I’ve got over this I’ll be better placed to just concentrate on focusing completely on the moves and nothing else.Man, my arms are a mess after today. Tomorrow; running.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3690499937665615918?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qiZboCcDEAQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Nice run (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/4tukuETUbzw/nice-run.html)
13 April 2011, 1:38 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KpGkX9il-7E/TaWludbRXkI/AAAAAAAACfA/uwQTwDwfjes/s320/P1000786.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KpGkX9il-7E/TaWludbRXkI/AAAAAAAACfA/uwQTwDwfjes/s1600/P1000786.jpg)
Took my camera along for yesterday’s run. I went up the Loch Treig Munros - Stob Coire Scriodan, Meall Garbh and Chno Dearg.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qu_6AyoQ3a0/TaWlwC5sItI/AAAAAAAACfE/pNJSYb9GrMg/s320/P1000788.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qu_6AyoQ3a0/TaWlwC5sItI/AAAAAAAACfE/pNJSYb9GrMg/s1600/P1000788.jpg)
Mega boulder to come back to!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7temG3g1Ep4/TaWlxvKRY5I/AAAAAAAACfI/Xg6cNkyFRUc/s320/P1000796.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7temG3g1Ep4/TaWlxvKRY5I/AAAAAAAACfI/Xg6cNkyFRUc/s1600/P1000796.jpg)
Peculiarly perched boulder. Didn’t understand the physics of this.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tAN8wKEe-O8/TaWly1ufPjI/AAAAAAAACfM/d-e6Q5MacFI/s320/P1000797.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tAN8wKEe-O8/TaWly1ufPjI/AAAAAAAACfM/d-e6Q5MacFI/s1600/P1000797.jpg)
Another snow shower sweeps across Loch Treig
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_AP8kZTECyA/TaWl0BbaijI/AAAAAAAACfQ/uNhatfjWHRY/s320/P1000811.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_AP8kZTECyA/TaWl0BbaijI/AAAAAAAACfQ/uNhatfjWHRY/s1600/P1000811.jpg)
Looking east from Meall Garbh
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pTF3sfBm_HQ/TaWl1cuXcuI/AAAAAAAACfU/mNTOcY_90J4/s320/P1000817.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pTF3sfBm_HQ/TaWl1cuXcuI/AAAAAAAACfU/mNTOcY_90J4/s1600/P1000817.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EP90qFIQWkU/TaWl2qO4zWI/AAAAAAAACfY/ZOdUyDaqF5g/s320/P1000821.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EP90qFIQWkU/TaWl2qO4zWI/AAAAAAAACfY/ZOdUyDaqF5g/s1600/P1000821.jpg)
Binnien Shuas appears out of the clouds. Time to jog down for a bowl of soup..
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2534718348397217445?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/4tukuETUbzw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Highpoint and psyche regained (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/A_0p9SWisdw/highpoint-and-psyche-regained.html)
15 April 2011, 9:41 pm
Another good session on the project. I got past the crux again which totally regained the psyche, which had been suffering after the last four sessions. I was totally unable to execute my beta for the move after, and fell straight off. So that’s cool - I’m pretty sure it’s hard. I’m back to thinking maybe it’s too hard for me. That last hard move on the link feels just nails, even though I feel really strong on all my warm-ups. At least I learned something new about a mistake I was making on the crux. Tomorrow it’s back to running and resting.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7767283341329130056?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/A_0p9SWisdw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New horizons (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/918awB6K5mg/new-horizons.html)
19 April 2011, 9:57 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2w1fvBMadpM/Ta3_TWQCv9I/AAAAAAAACfg/IoNYs4DBpIo/s320/P1000835.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2w1fvBMadpM/Ta3_TWQCv9I/AAAAAAAACfg/IoNYs4DBpIo/s1600/P1000835.jpg)
Anna enjoying Sky Pilot bouldering
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J8bqKc62Zjo/Ta3_UrGnzjI/AAAAAAAACfk/DEduZ1OhFl0/s320/P1000852.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J8bqKc62Zjo/Ta3_UrGnzjI/AAAAAAAACfk/DEduZ1OhFl0/s1600/P1000852.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x1gQ83xpCTM/Ta3_WdRO8dI/AAAAAAAACfo/eRwzmdgDrTs/s320/P1000865.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x1gQ83xpCTM/Ta3_WdRO8dI/AAAAAAAACfo/eRwzmdgDrTs/s1600/P1000865.jpg)
Spooky forest
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I6mWMzgc-7Q/Ta3_X8oweuI/AAAAAAAACfs/itEKYvaOHaQ/s320/P1000919.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I6mWMzgc-7Q/Ta3_X8oweuI/AAAAAAAACfs/itEKYvaOHaQ/s1600/P1000919.jpg)
One of hundreds - no joke
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-imu9Z1Bqi6E/Ta3_ZWSzKrI/AAAAAAAACfw/3JUNXx2tcwM/s320/P1000937.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-imu9Z1Bqi6E/Ta3_ZWSzKrI/AAAAAAAACfw/3JUNXx2tcwM/s1600/P1000937.jpg)
Straight out of Switzerland
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KF-2EjAch1I/Ta3_bTWqRLI/AAAAAAAACf0/LyjQxCAci_o/s320/P1000941.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KF-2EjAch1I/Ta3_bTWqRLI/AAAAAAAACf0/LyjQxCAci_o/s1600/P1000941.jpg)
Cave of granite crimps - yesterday’s prize
Progress on my project has been up and down. I got past the main crux another three times and felt like it was right there, only to fail convincingly on the next move every time. It’s well hard. And sadly, now it’s too hot. Today it was 19 degrees and it felt like I was climbing it with a rucksack on. And that’s despite feeling super fit from daily projecting or running. I’ve not had a rest day in three weeks though, so we’ll see if a day off will fill the tank again. To adjust on the sloper or not, that is the question… On the rope it feels slightly easier but uses a lot of energy that I maybe don’t have on the redpoint. But then I keep failing without the adjustment. A dilemma to ponder on the next run.My runs have been great. On the past two, I’ve found more unclimbed crags and boulders than I could climb in a lifetime. Just endless new lines to do. It’s amazing! All of them are within 30 miles of my house. Only problem is that a good chunk of that is walking in some of the most remote glens in the highlands. Hence they have remained undeveloped by climbers. Could do with a bike/boat/helicopter. I could go on about caves full of flakes and crimps, 50m high overhanging crags lining the glen, perfect gneiss, hard granite, lovely views… Hopefully I can get to climb some of them soon and I’ll show them off.Maybe yesterday’s run was a little overcooked. I had a time limit to be back home for engagements with the girls. My quest for the granite boulders took me 5 minutes over my turn-back time and as I turned to run the 6 miles back the savage headwind hit me. I nearly face planted on rubber legs as I got back to the car.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7676284832757843779?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/918awB6K5mg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mountain Equipment Pro-Team T-shirts back in stock (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Zbi1c3n_c_8/mountain-equipment-pro-team-t-shirts.html)
19 April 2011, 10:04 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/meproteamtshirt.jpg)I know, I know, we only got a short batch last time and ran out pretty much as soon as we got them. As promised, a big box of them dropped into the MacLeod house this morning. The reassuring ‘thunk’ nearly woke Freida! They’ve only been live on the site a few hours and already the box is getting lighter. So get them in…
They are right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainequipmenttee.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2186404060291279799?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Zbi1c3n_c_8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Resting up, Glaswegian style (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eA_06XezRJs/peter-squeezing-life-out-of-auto-roof.html)
25 April 2011, 11:10 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8WR9RK5ZDAI/TbX8n3XlsSI/AAAAAAAACf4/Vn1gfxYwrjE/s400/P1000977.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8WR9RK5ZDAI/TbX8n3XlsSI/AAAAAAAACf4/Vn1gfxYwrjE/s1600/P1000977.jpg)
Peter squeezing the life out of Auto Roof, 6a, Sky Pilot. Moving large rocks around all day long for a living helps with climbing rocks.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWmZCnj3esE/TbX8pYlJ-FI/AAAAAAAACf8/0CUqLaBf26g/s400/P1000983.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWmZCnj3esE/TbX8pYlJ-FI/AAAAAAAACf8/0CUqLaBf26g/s1600/P1000983.jpg)
Cool piece of Schist, Creag Dubh
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGLcHyWKvkw/TbX8q8164WI/AAAAAAAACgA/azZvwv-sMoM/s400/P1000987.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGLcHyWKvkw/TbX8q8164WI/AAAAAAAACgA/azZvwv-sMoM/s1600/P1000987.jpg)
Nice exposure on King Bee, VS, Creag DubhAfter a long stint of working hard on the project and training every day, the time came for a break. After the final session I could feel every muscle hurting. Two days in Glasgow really helped restore energy levels. I ate chips and Irn Bru for tea, slept a lot and soaked up sunshine. A proper Glaswegian break.But coming home in 23 degree sunshine meant that resuming battle was not really on the cards, so another night of relaxing was in order. Two barbecues, some beers and some leisurely days jumping about the crags with Peter helped restore a sense of life outside of the project tunnel.I think it was just what was needed.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7512656658518659509?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/eA_06XezRJs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Three new books and DVDs in the shop today (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/sJAlqJ4ZejA/three-new-books-and-dvds-in-shop-today.html)
27 April 2011, 12:09 am
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/climbingphilosophy.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/climbingphilosophy.jpg)Three new products just added to the shop which provided me with some excellent climbing entertainment of very different types! I hope you like them too:
Climbing philosophy for everyone: A book that has been needing to be written for some time. Stephen Schmid has brought together a series of philosophers who are also involved in climbing to take a head on look at the philosophy of various aspects of climbing. It’s quite a big task, and this book definitely errs on the accessible side. In highly readable and easy going style, it examines in turn aspects of the climbing experience such as freedom, risk/reward, the enjoyment of climbing several aspects of climbing ethics, styles of climbing and climbing culture. Far from being a hardcore academic style book, it’s a fine door opener to the world of attempting to understand climbing on a slightly deeper level. Your next heated post climb debate or forum rant will be less without it under your belt, but in places it is certainly a source of climbing controversy itself! Entertaining stuff. The book is right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/climbingphilosophy.html)(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Reach-climbing-DVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Reach-climbing-DVD.jpg)Reach DVD: The latest in the genre of skate/MTB inspired bouldering flicks coming out of the US. If you enjoyed the likes of Core from last year, you’ll love this one too. A host of talent is squeezed in, cranking out V13 plus boulders with good music and a feel good style. The beasts Dave Graham and Daniel Woods are of course the highlight. Inspiring as usual with their jaw dropping feats of strength. One to make the boulders tremble. Right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/roguestatereach.html)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/FanaticSearch2.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/FanaticSearch2.jpg)The Fanatic Search 2… A girl thing DVD: Yes that’s right, Laurent Triay’s latest film creation is all about the girls. And well impressive they are too! Charlotte Durif (8c onsight), Daila Ojeda, Lynn Hill, Robyn Erbesfield (plus 9 year old 7c+ climbing daughter), Martina Cufar, Berta Martin and others in full flow on the best crags of Spain France. Inspiration aside, it’s an education to watch - whether you are a male or female climber. I was particularly interested to watch Charlotte Durif and see her style on the rock. She is one of the best performing onsight sport climbers in the world but there is very little footage of her around. It was just as interesting as I hoped! Right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/fanaticsearch2.html)
They are all in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7572770519452910998?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/sJAlqJ4ZejA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Seven of Nine (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ApHNvObdrFg/seven-of-nine.html)
27 April 2011, 2:50 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmmXehOZEn4/Tbd4wQQcyfI/AAAAAAAACgE/AMFRCDk0oio/s640/Sevenofninesend.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DmmXehOZEn4/Tbd4wQQcyfI/AAAAAAAACgE/AMFRCDk0oio/s1600/Sevenofninesend.jpg)
Seven of Nine V14I still can’t believe the Sky Pilot project went down last night! I was buzzing so much I was unable to go to bed until 5 am, and lay wide-eyed until Freida burst into life at 7. The crucial difference after all those sessions? Several small but crucial ones.First, I had genuinely detached myself from expectation of success. When it’s at your limit, time and time again this seems to be crucial for realising true focus of energy at the right moment, free of interference from the conscious. I read with interest Chris Sharma’s comments (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38091) about also having to re-learn this lesson over again during his recent project victory at Margalef. I find that in order to achieve this state, it’s impossible to focus on ‘not being attached to success’. I’m not sure you can think in negatives like this easily, if at all. Rather, I found that focusing completely and exclusively on enjoying the effort, movement and routine of each and every attempt, that I could relax and begin to really climb.Second, I went back to the sequence. No matter how well you think you know the holds and the moves, when it’s limit and your a hair’s breadth from success, there is nearly always something new to find after going back to basics with the sequence. In this case a simple change in order of foot movements and a tweak of timing tipped it my way.Lastly, I’d clocked up the necessary hours to be all over it. Daily training for several hours, careful diet, careful rest, careful thinking over time and the destination finally appeared.Nothing new here, but still important.Cubby climbed the original route here ‘Sky Pilot’ (E5 6b or these days a very highball V5) in 1981. He also tried the project a decade or so later, but didn’t do the moves. He was the catalyst for me looking at it, telling me it would be a brilliant short solo and hard compared to other short routes in the UK - harder than Hubble, which he had done the moves on. It’s a funny climb, somewhere between a highball and solo. I certainly wasn’t at all keen on falling off above the crux, and had to go all out to avoid doing just that. Grade wise I don’t have much to compare it to since I haven’t bouldered much for a couple of years, except that it’s definitely harder than any of the V13s I’ve done and seems harder than some V14s I've played on a good while ago now. Or is it? I’m not sure if it’s my style or not. Anyway, what a great feeling to be able to pull hard on holds and do some training again for the first time in a couple of years. A big milestone for me..A little video below from my compact propped on a stone of the first ascent and another new line just right of Sky Pilot:
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5425461849793202193?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ApHNvObdrFg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New cycle begins (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SsPRnOy0dKQ/new-cycle-begins.html)
3 May 2011, 5:01 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WA2tFkUip_4/TcAl9-R32hI/AAAAAAAACgk/Sx3t3E8_Huc/s640/P1010002.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WA2tFkUip_4/TcAl9-R32hI/AAAAAAAACgk/Sx3t3E8_Huc/s1600/P1010002.jpg)
Gaz Marshall on Strongbow V7, Laggan (classic problem!)The sprint to the finish line on Seven of Nine seems to have left me feeling rather burnt out. Or has it? For the past five days I’ve felt unexpectedly lethargic, sleepy and ineffective at more or less anything.Time for a change of scenery. Almost every year I get a few days in both May and September when this happens. Whether it’s down to the change of season, natural cycles of training or something else, who knows. It doesn’t matter. It only lasts a few days and then I usually feel good again. This morning I woke up feeling normal again and psyched to start the routes season after yesterday’s false start.After sessions at Laggan, running laps on Sky Pilot for Cubby’s camera and then a day of failing miserably to climb anything at Tunnel Wall, I can see it’s time to phase out the boulders and start getting pumped on routes. I’ve got 6 weeks to get in shape for the start of the route project period. I’ll start off with a bit of Tunnel Wall and Steall, and then hopefully a bit of tradding. It’ll be interesting to see how quick the transition from strong to fit goes.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2eA_GvUPSeo/TcAmACF_VyI/AAAAAAAACgo/VQqvokOkiyw/s640/P1010006.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2eA_GvUPSeo/TcAmACF_VyI/AAAAAAAACgo/VQqvokOkiyw/s1600/P1010006.jpg)
Nice unclimbed overhang
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d4sR7TNFRK8/TcAl90Suo3I/AAAAAAAACgg/d6PGvYVSXYk/s640/P1010008.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d4sR7TNFRK8/TcAl90Suo3I/AAAAAAAACgg/d6PGvYVSXYk/s1600/P1010008.jpg)
Boulder hunting
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jQV_LO78P7M/TcAmFjKJo6I/AAAAAAAACgw/mvHW7Hw8k5k/s640/P1010010.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jQV_LO78P7M/TcAmFjKJo6I/AAAAAAAACgw/mvHW7Hw8k5k/s1600/P1010010.jpg)
Laggan outlook
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-1i_OeBeKc/TcAmEyWnmEI/AAAAAAAACgs/6QoIL8m-lNw/s640/P1010038.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-1i_OeBeKc/TcAmEyWnmEI/AAAAAAAACgs/6QoIL8m-lNw/s1600/P1010038.jpg)
Tunnel Wall and the Coe
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1669633173167896490?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SsPRnOy0dKQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The turnaround grinding into action (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ERN8qRGBEZI/turnaround-grinding-into-action.html)
10 May 2011, 8:56 pm
I’m in the middle of the two-week hell that always accompanies the transition from boulderer to stamina monster. Stamina monster is definitely the wrong word right now! But the plan is that it will be. All the holds on Tunnel Wall feel so easy to pull on but I am still getting pumped on the laps. I feel like an overloaded plane trying to take off - Once I’m off the bumpy ground I can start going up. Oh well that’s how I like to think of it anyway. I think next week I might be fit enough for Steall...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2364917273463811472?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ERN8qRGBEZI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Gore-Tex Arctic Norway trip competition (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rf-OCzeBxpw/project-thats-been-in-pipeline-for.html)
10 May 2011, 9:03 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OwB3EXLfZh0/TcmmuebjtzI/AAAAAAAACg0/Rk84_IOxkLs/s400/Picture+2.png) (http://apps.facebook.com/gore-experiencetour/?etpage=tour_norway)
A project that’s been in the pipeline for a while has been a trip I’m planning with my sponsors Gore-Tex. It’s just launched so I can finally talk about it. So, would you like to come on a climbing trip to Arctic Norway with me?The lowdown is on the Gore-Tex Experience Tour facebook page here (http://apps.facebook.com/gore-experiencetour/?etpage=tour_norway), but here’s the rough plan: Gore-Tex have been running several competitions to go on some superb trips with their athletes and this year it’s my turn. Some of you might remember I was asking you for ideas for it months ago. We are going to go rock climbing, hopefully new routing, in northern Norway for two weeks in August. And we are looking for two climbers to win a place on the trip, courtesy of Gore-Tex!I see a load of you have already clocked this on the Gore-Tex Experience Tour facebook page and applied! Great stuff and good luck. Looking forward to sharing a fine climbing trip with you. Please do post up on the wall with any more links you have to your climbing stories and pics to make my choice easier when it comes to the casting day!A couple of personal things to say about the trip we have planned - First off please don't be afraid to apply! I know from experience of coaching climbers and doing talks etc that people sometimes get put off by the prospect of going climbing with someone you've 'heard of'. There's no need in this case. Climbing new routes in places where there's tons of rock offers endless possibilities and our objective is just to go climbing and have fun for a couple of weeks. We'll have no problems finding routes to climb that have however hard or easy climbing we are after. We'll choose the objectives when we get there and based on how we are all climbing. So it's flexible - the only hard and fast rules are that we will have an adventure, we will get rained on at some point, we will come home with tired arms and wide eyes. You get the picture..If you make the shortlist and get invited to the casting day in July, basically the plan will be we'll meet up near a cliff somewhere in Europe for the weekend, I'll show a few slides and tell some climbing stories over a beer. The next day we'll climb and find out who is ideal for the trip but I'll also make sure we all have a good session of climbing coaching so everyone has a good and productive time.Why Norway? Well, other than being a climbing paradise with nearly endless potential for adventurous new routing on every type of cliff, it's beautiful, off the beaten track and aside from an unpredictable climate there are no barriers to getting on the rock - it's everywhere! Depending on the team's desires, what grabs our eye when we arrive and whether the sun is out, we could climb sport routes, single pitch trad or some rather bigger walls. I'm sure there will be the odd bit of sessioning on perfect granite boulders too…Can’t wait. You can apply until the 5th of June, here. (http://apps.facebook.com/gore-experiencetour/?etpage=tour_norway)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5867278412413582897?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rf-OCzeBxpw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Steall sessions (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mfpRqvBQb9g/first-ascent-of-fat-groove-8a-steall.html)
18 May 2011, 9:46 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--wQlJypnZSE/TdQ44i1-vlI/AAAAAAAAChA/oEJm0ynF_54/s640/P1010100.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--wQlJypnZSE/TdQ44i1-vlI/AAAAAAAAChA/oEJm0ynF_54/s1600/P1010100.jpg)
First ascent of The Fat Groove 8a, SteallTwo good sessions at Steall with Tweedley and Boswell. On day one I mostly put in bolts and scrubbed and was knackered. Net day, after baby class it was time to get actually climbing. I equipped a big diagonal groove cutting across my route Stolen and Running into the last part of Trick of the Tail (which is now bolted to the niche below the perma-wetness with permission from Mark at great 7b+).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i-vaTE6FsnY/TdQ46eKlcYI/AAAAAAAAChE/D7U4p05hKkI/s640/P1010107.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i-vaTE6FsnY/TdQ46eKlcYI/AAAAAAAAChE/D7U4p05hKkI/s1600/P1010107.jpg)
Being a groove I figured some bridging would be possible, which it was in places. The rest however was some powerful fingery undercutting with some technical dancing about on little smears, if that is the right word?
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h8URozQU4uQ/TdQ49gZ5uFI/AAAAAAAAChM/pivjrRkJEGQ/s1600/P1010121.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h8URozQU4uQ/TdQ49gZ5uFI/AAAAAAAAChM/pivjrRkJEGQ/s1600/P1010121.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t8xbLTxhfIE/TdQ4_NCjFuI/AAAAAAAAChQ/UPIcZaxdWUU/s640/P1010138.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t8xbLTxhfIE/TdQ4_NCjFuI/AAAAAAAAChQ/UPIcZaxdWUU/s1600/P1010138.jpg)
A little bit of grunt and I made it through to the superb upper section, with all sorts of funky groove moves going on. Brilliant. The other line I bolted won’t give up so easily I suspect.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wj53apqvs6Y/TdQ43JGr60I/AAAAAAAACg8/jLHsHWc1-PM/s640/P1010083.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wj53apqvs6Y/TdQ43JGr60I/AAAAAAAACg8/jLHsHWc1-PM/s1600/P1010083.jpg)
Michael scrapping with The Gurrie 8a+
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PkUVhL81lKE/TdQ41IbJTII/AAAAAAAACg4/D8uDHeNpr4Y/s1600/P1010078.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PkUVhL81lKE/TdQ41IbJTII/AAAAAAAACg4/D8uDHeNpr4Y/s1600/P1010078.jpg)
The whole time, it dumped it down with rain and fresh snow fell on Ben Nevis above us. I don't reckon too many other new routes got done in the western highlands today! Nice to see that other are enjoying the routes here recently as much as I have done. Niall (http://deftmoves.blogspot.com/2008/05/stolen-pleasures.html) and Alan (http://alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/05/sun-sea-sand.html) both rating Stolen as possibly the best 8b or even 8 in the UK!!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2958997443394629260?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mfpRqvBQb9g)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The forces of nature (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/_9gOjuFJ0J0/forces-of-nature.html)
26 May 2011, 4:07 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aMaUu_ls1Sc/Td52NohAY7I/AAAAAAAAChU/hMTKgGazYMc/s640/IMG_0387.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aMaUu_ls1Sc/Td52NohAY7I/AAAAAAAAChU/hMTKgGazYMc/s1600/IMG_0387.jpg)
Just when we thought the Scottish spring couldn’t get any worse, going climbing has been even more difficult of late. After a weekend in Glasgow and training indoors to hide from the 100mph winds, 60 odd fallen trees stood between us and home on the A82. The one below landed on the car and tanker, thankfully noone hurt and we proceeded to chainsaw it up and carry on.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVhzTjL_rBc/Td52T4hazeI/AAAAAAAAChY/TAfh5YCrpDg/s640/P1010142.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SVhzTjL_rBc/Td52T4hazeI/AAAAAAAAChY/TAfh5YCrpDg/s1600/P1010142.jpg)
Further up the road, fallen caravans marked the way across Rannoch Moor.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5y1n9JlIcn8/Td52WHAN81I/AAAAAAAAChc/-OLJNwgXKHY/s640/P1010144.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5y1n9JlIcn8/Td52WHAN81I/AAAAAAAAChc/-OLJNwgXKHY/s1600/P1010144.jpg)
Yes, it used to be a caravan, until the Scottish conditions remodelled it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wd5WKqgECDk/Td52YFew1YI/AAAAAAAAChg/JFWkcLq5W18/s640/P1010158.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wd5WKqgECDk/Td52YFew1YI/AAAAAAAAChg/JFWkcLq5W18/s1600/P1010158.jpg)
So the tour of Scotland’s perma-dry sport crags continues. Even Steall an Tunnel Wall were soaking, so I checked out Am Fasgadh in Gruinard Bay for the first time with Gaz and Murdo. I was a fine little crag, and we managed half a session before the wind finally dropped and we received our first beating by the midges of the season. Before they stopped play, I managed an 8a+ second ascent (Stork’s ex project) and ticked some of the excellent 7bs and 7cs. It was so nice just to go climbing on some established routes for a day, and not have to bolt and scrub them first! I forgot how easy it is just to climb other peoples sport routes.Endurance still has a long way to go, but some progress has been made and my appointment with my Orkney project is getting closer in my mind. Time to attack the board again today...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mxm8YHMntug/Td52aIop6II/AAAAAAAAChk/HLS-IW9ocuM/s640/P1010159.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Mxm8YHMntug/Td52aIop6II/AAAAAAAAChk/HLS-IW9ocuM/s1600/P1010159.jpg)
Murdo relaxing on Black Sox 7c, Am FasgadhDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2744619362884438941?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/_9gOjuFJ0J0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hoy on the horizon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7nKTKkjmg3M/hoy-on-horizon.html)
1 June 2011, 2:18 pm
Now after four weeks of thrashing it out on the circuits I’ve gone from zero stamina to nearly-got-stamina. It’s been almost exclusively on my board since the rain has been incessant in Scotland for the whole of May. Hence the lack of new routes to report. However, the focus has been good for me probably. My 60 move circuit is now extended to 100 moves and the rest between bouts are getting shorter every session.
Still much more work to be done, but with that under my belt and a good forecast at last it’s time to head north to Orkney and get on my project for a few days and try and remember how to trad climb.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4184730744073109126?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7nKTKkjmg3M)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lecture next week in Manchester (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/t20LteU9Aig/lecture-next-week-in-manchester.html)
1 June 2011, 2:33 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--a3S_aAgyO0/TeAIhkwA82I/AAAAAAAAADU/AR1qhxeeBgU/s640/lecture+poster.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--a3S_aAgyO0/TeAIhkwA82I/AAAAAAAAADU/AR1qhxeeBgU/s1600/lecture+poster.jpg)
Next Thursday I’m doing a lecture at the Mountain Equipment store in Manchester. All the details are above. It’s been up on ME’s facebook for a couple of days so there are only about 10-15 tickets left I’ve just heard. So get in there quick. Tickets are free - just ring the store on the number on the poster or register on the facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/MTNEQUIPMENT?ref=ts). See you there!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2989010292669405712?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/t20LteU9Aig)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mountain Rescue - how to raise funds? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qWzy-kL5S6c/mountain-rescue-how-to-raise-funds.html)
7 June 2011, 1:56 am
In the last three days I’ve heard a few things about Mountain Rescue teams and how to raise funds for them. First, I was chatting to a friend about raising funds for a rescue team with a shortfall right now. He was trying to think of ideas to raise funds directly by increasing donations or by generating cash by business activities. Second, I was asked (as I often am) to post on my blog and retweet messages pointing at Mountain Rescue sites, or other charitable organisations. Third, I was listening to Stephen Fry on Radio 4 today talking about how he is asked continuously to retweet messages of all types (charitable and corporate) and how doing this just doesn’t work for either party in the long run.Occasionally, it is right to talk about a charitable organisation, when you do some work for them or have a direct personal involvement of some kind. For instance recently when I was at an event for the Linda Norgrove Foundation, a charity I’m hoping to keep a personal involvement with in the future. But Stephen’s point was that the whole idea of a person having a blog or twitter feed is that it’s personal - it’s about you. Distorting that once in a while to promote is OK so long as it has personal meaning for you, but overdo it, and in the long run it’s unsustainable. It just doesn’t work, like spam.I can see why organisations try to harness the established audience of someone well known in the relevant field in order to get promotional mileage. But if it’s purely a spam exercise it’s destined for an extemely poor success rate. Much better to involve those people directly in some meaningful way if you are going to use them at all. However, in my view, there is a better way, at least in the case of a charity seeking to raise funds. Rather than rely heavily on others to carry the promotional torch down a blind alley, it would be better to utilise the intrinsic value of the organisation itself to generate the necessary reach among the desired audience. So the challenge for the organisation is firstly to figure out what they have that could be of value to their target audience, and then to share it with them in a way that raises funds along the way. Things of value can come in all shapes or sizes. Off the top of my head, if I was running a rescue team, here’s a few things I’d work on:1. The first thing rescue teams have of value is general knowledge about how to stay safe and move about on mountains, as well as specific local knowledge about the mountains they pull people off day in day out. Mountain guides and centres use this very effectively to fuel their marketing. Rescue teams could do it too, but add a different perspective. Writing online, training events, lectures on mountain safety are all good fundraisers. I’d love to see an article on why you, like so many novice winter climbers are going to get stuck high on Tower Ridge on the Ben and have to call out a team to bail you out. I’d like to see a good annotated topo of the ridge showing where you can move together instead of pitching your way straight into a benightment, how you can escape from the ridge by abseil or ledges and where climbers commonly end up stuck. The URL for that kind of piece will get the retweets without having to ask, as well as maybe even helping to cut the expenditure?!2. The other obvious aspect of rescue teams’ work that gets people talking is rescue stories. As any new marketer will tell you, marketing revolves around stories, and rescue teams have them in bulk. Whereas many corporate stories are fake and boring, mountain rescue stories are some of the most gripping ever. The ethics and presentation of them are a discussion for another day, but a blog chronicling the activities of a rescue team in the same style (but with more detail) than in the SMC journal would be a very interesting and educational blog. And one which I could envisage getting a lot of incoming links from some highly useful websites (like the BBC!). Some use of Twitter to relate up to date info on hill conditions, especially overnight, would be a very subscribed feed also. And this aspect of a team’s work is exactly the right type of relationship that is needed with potential donors or customers - a regular one with constant reminders. A one off shot, like a piece on the news or a newspaper just pales in comparison in terms of it’s long term value.3. Marketing fear and responsibility (e.g. “support the rescue team, you might need them someday”) has been shown in so many other fields such as health to have a poor success rate (understatement). Hence, marketing to the majority of the audience who have never used the service and probably don’t even want to think about the day they might need to demands the approach above - a positive one. On the other hand, those who have had to use the rescue services will have a very different attitude. Is there any mechanism in place to keep in contact with these people and make it easy for them to exercise their gratitude for the service, both immediately and down the line (when they are CEOs of big companies etc)?4. Donations are important, but sell things too. If there was a good book or stories and pictures from dramatic rescues in the mountains I visit, I’d buy it. I bet those who only go to the visitor centre at the bottom would too. Why let some commercial journalist write it and take the revenue? - write and publish it yourself. 5.Align to bigger business. For certain companies, a badge that says they support, or better still donate a percentage of their profits to mountain rescue is a tool they can use for their own marketing. In other words, it adds value for them, and you. These alliances are there for the taking. Let others sell donations for you. Sponsorship is another way. I saw the ‘Red Devils’ parachute team on the telly tonight, wearing Victorinox logos. I know these ideas aren’t new, complete or detailed and have no idea how much they have been tried or would be suitable. My point is that the status quo is far short of ideal. The folk who are involved directly with the problem will need to iron out the details of solutions, as an outsider looking in it seems to me that a different approach could yield some much bigger results. I hope thinking aloud about this is more useful than retweeting a request for donations?Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7708321538111042126?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qWzy-kL5S6c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fresh visits to Orkney begin (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/a17jBXv-lfI/fresh-visits-to-orkney-begin.html)
7 June 2011, 2:29 am
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St John’s Head, Hoy, Orkney. It’s pretty amazing, isn’t it? I am in the picture, but you'll probably not spot me.I just got back from two days work on my project on Orkney with progress made. Fitness is starting to materialise at last, a finger injury is becoming less and less of a bother, and logistics are ironing out.
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Cleaning a new finishI was keen to see if it was possible to finish the route over a series of roofs right at the top of the wall. So rather than the original finish skirting out right around the roofs for an easy escape, the last pitch is a ~ 70 metre pitch of around 8b+ on the top rope. Although I don’t how it’ll feel with a rack of big camalots for such a long pitch on my harness? I had thought it was going to weigh in around 8c but a miniscule foothold discovery on the crux on this trip might just take the edge off it. It's funny how a foothold about 1mm square will probably determine the overall difficulty of a 500m climb. Pics by John Sutherland.
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A long pitch, and there’s 450m of climbing to get here!
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John feeling the space
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Brushing steeeep rock
It turns out that I should be able to lead this final 15m section through the roofs on three small cams. Since taking a belay instead would have been on two Camalot 4s, I'm actually saving weight on the crux pitch rack by pressing on all the way to the top. Happy days.
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A fine rack
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1945 bomber wreckage, Cuilags
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QsKNd9RciT8/Te2IK9zM3RI/AAAAAAAACiM/T2SAR0G4hRs/s640/P1010228.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QsKNd9RciT8/Te2IK9zM3RI/AAAAAAAACiM/T2SAR0G4hRs/s1600/P1010228.jpg)
Shootin the Stromness breeze
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2572668171857655455?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/a17jBXv-lfI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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More on MRTs (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/t-i2v1Dhos4/more-on-mrts.html)
15 June 2011, 11:52 pm
I’m back home from a couple of good days with the Mountain Equipment team in Manchester. I was speaking in lecture at the ME store talking about trying to arrive at a confident state for heading back up to Orkney again for sessions on my project. To help with that I finally got a nice day to head out with Anna and do some tradding. This is the difficulty in Scotland sometimes - Although I feel quite fit now from Steall and board sessions, there’s no substitute for going out and leading a lot of long routes (if your training for a long trad route). So I made the most of it and did some of the lovely multipitch E5s on Dirc Mhor while watching the Golden Eagle soaring about at the other end of the glen. Wet holds at Steall defeated another new route from happening, but the main thing was that workouts were had...My post on mountain rescue a few days ago attracted some attention as I thought it might. Most seemed to welcome or share my thoughts. I had one long comment that was rejected by blogger because of it’s length (addressed below) suggesting many of my suggestions for raising funds had been adopted, at least by some teams. Thats great. I hope it’s working well. My feeling is that it certainly could be given the strength of the resource. My underlying point with my post was that I hope the temptation to blame the outside world for not offering as much support as they could or noticing the products etc that teams produce for them is resisted. The difference between a campaign to raise funds that either falls short of a good result or does spectacularly well can be so subtle and dependent on countless aspects of how it’s presented, timed and mediated. In the case of mountain rescue the challenge seems clear to me which is to reach the vast majority who despite being very interested in climbing, are not interested in supporting mountain rescue, as harsh as that sounds. That majority are very unlikely to find themselves on an MRT site unless there’s a very interesting article or video taking them there. Some of the comments focused on my idea about books. If the book produced by the MRT isn’t on Amazon and that’s the only place you go to shop for books, then it doesn’t exist. And just being there is not enough, it needs to pop up beside those books you are searching for. Have you seen how popular the dramatic tales of climbing epics are on Amazon? It needs to be a ‘book’ not a ‘booklet’ (I’ve never bought anyone a booklet for Christmas) and the fact that the proceeds go to mountain rescue needs to be more in the background so as not to raise a question in the mind of the buyer about the quality of what they are going to get. And does the cover ‘work’ at 150 pixels high?Here was Judy’s comments below in italics, with some responses to each point from me:"Hi DaveGreat to see you talking about mountain rescue and coming up with some thoughts. Entirely agree with you on the tweeting and retweeting!Just a few points though in response to your points.The safety angle: both at team level and nationally, we spend a great deal of our time spreading the message about what to take with you (map, compass, correct kit etc,) what to do before you go (weather checking, training in appropriate skills etc) and how to stay safe whilst out there. You'll find info like this on any team's website and it's certainly contained on the Mountain Rescue England and Wales site. Team members spend a deal of time, every week, giving talks and slide shows about their work, including the safety aspect.We also write and publish books on the subject. 'Call Out Mountain Rescue?' is available for £9.99 from mountain.rescue.org.uk - all proceeds to MREW.”Its great that MRTs spread the word on safety. If MRTs could act as a catalyst for climbers at large to spread the word about safety, rather than having to shoulder the effort so directly, it might increase the reach greatly. What video or writing do you have or can get that climbers will want to show eachother? “Re the topos idea - although we DO count several MIs in our ranks, we're not instructors. Our job is to pick up the pieces, if you will, not be prescriptive to people about which routes they take or how they rope themselves.”That’s unfortunate. Prescriptive maybe not, but advisory on where and how the accidents happen on specific spots would be most welcome. How else are you going to get that vast majority who aren’t interested in what you do onto your site?“That said, we DO work with both the AMI and the BMC to promote safe practice.Stories: yep we have them in bulk and they're sent to the press/radio and TV by all teams and nationally probably every day of the week. The problem is, we have no control over whether these make it into print.”Yes you do. Present the stories well enough and the press can’t afford not to follow. Besides, you are the press now anyway. The internet leads the press. The variables limiting reach are the strength of the presentation of the stories and the best use of the channels to present them.“Local press DO support their local teams but it's not easy to persuade the bigger fish to run stories. Nationally, it's stuff like floods, missing children or smartphone apps that make the papers and TV. That said, the last couple of years have seen an increase in mags and Sunday supplements, and documentary makers showing an interest in our work. It's a constant work-in-progress.”This gives me two thoughts - are the subset of everyone who you need to reach (the ones who might buy a book about mountain stories, watch a video, read a good article etc) best reached using newspapers or TV? Do those media catch the right people at the right time, and make it easy enough for them to take one of the fund raising clicks you want them to take? I would have my doubts. For example, I’ve never taken my newspaper home and typed in a URL at the end of piece."Re the books, there's 'Mountain Rescue', by myself and Bob Sharp, which contains lots of anecdotes, history and details about mountain rescue in the UK. I look forward to your order via the MREW website!!”I’m never on the MREW website. I didn’t know it was there as I’ve never seen anyone link to it.“Mechanism for contacting those we rescue? You're working with it. The net. Teams will generally keep in touch with those they have rescued, and those rescued are frequently our best advocates and fundraisers. We also keep in touch with people through Basecamp membership, Facebook pages and in our Mountain Rescue magazine.”Great!“Many teams use Twitter, although I believe there are inherent problems with this as a medium as there may be circumstances where it is neither sensitive not advisable to post on-going details of rescues, for example in missing persons searches or fatalities, before these have been officially released.”Sure.“And we're not really in the business of posting weather updates - there are Met Office and mountain weather websites and apps set up specifically for this. Many teams and MREW have links to these sites.”That’s unfortunate. It seems a shame to send users away from your site rather than attract them to it using the one piece of information they need to check every time they go climbing. There’s an emerging massive gap in the web market for carefully aggregated local information for mountain users that’s presented in a useful way. It’s a web design and marketing problem. Someone will take the space, soon. If it’s not you it’ll be a gear retailer, or maybe even just some geek who also likes to climb. That would a shame. It comes back to my original point - MRTs will never be able to raise funds by appealing to fear or responsibility. It will have to deal in something that climbers want to have, do or experience. Chris Anderson’s book has a lot that would be useful for MRT fundraisers I think.“Bigger business: Again, yes we DO have various sponsors in place as you describe. Not QUITE as easy to get big companies on board as you might think but those we have are very supportive of MR. They include Victorinox, btw. Many companies support teams and many clothing manufacturers work closely with teams and MREW in the ongoing development of kit.Finally, we are always looking for ambassadors for mountain rescue who can spread the word and help us raise awareness. Fancy a job? The salary is good - £0 - but the satisfaction level is brilliant. Drop me a line if you do!Judy Whiteside (Mountain Rescue Magazine Editor)”Great comment. Thanks Judy. I understand my point of view might seem ignorant of the problems. That’s true - I am, because I have an outsiders perspective and it’s not my area. My points are two very general ones - that there is a resource there which could be used to greater advantage, and that there are new opportunities emerging right now because of how media is changing that make it a lot easier to raise funds if the right moves are made.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6994563137277835172?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/t-i2v1Dhos4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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North again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/_jzoKMKIgR4/im-off-up-tomorrow-ha-today-actually.html)
16 June 2011, 1:55 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O9V80BaFiV8/TflWTt7wIbI/AAAAAAAACis/Vf3W-j3nJ9c/s200/IMG_0413.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O9V80BaFiV8/TflWTt7wIbI/AAAAAAAACis/Vf3W-j3nJ9c/s1600/IMG_0413.jpg)I’m off up tomorrow (Ha! Today actually - another late night typing…) with Claire, Freida, Andy Turner, Diff, Lukasz and others for a good trip to Orkney. We’ll either be dodging fulmars on the cliffs or dodging showers and eating Stoats bars all day back at basecamp. Fingers crossed for the former.It’s going to be cool to go for a proper trip, so long as we get some weather of course. I’ve mostly been there with Claire or just by myself and for short trips, so I’m interested to see how things go if we can get really involved with the route this time. Claire has been filming all my work on this project for the past two summers. This year we are teaming up with Diff from Hot Aches (http://www.hotaches.com/) to help us keep filming. Mountain Equipment (http://mtnequipment.blogspot.com/)have really helped out a lot with organising this trip too. Lukasz (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/)is coming to take pictures. I think he’ll be impressed with the cliff. As will Andy. He sounds a little apprehensive on his blog (http://andyturnerclimbing.blogspot.com/), which seems funny to me, him being a machine and all. I’m quite sure Andy is a lot stronger than the Hoy sandstone. Oh, hang on, that’s the problem isn’t it!Stoats (http://www.eatstoats.co.uk/) is supporting us on Orkney with Stoats porridge and porridge bars! I’ve been munching Stoats bars on Scottish mountains for some time and thought it would a good time to get in touch with Tony for a chat about some oats. Many a crux pitch has previously fallen to the power of a good breakfast of oats. Let’s keep up the tradition..Right I’m off to bed, to worry.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1179278190769484484?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/_jzoKMKIgR4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Rain, drizzle, mist, clag (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/3ROo1lzLhbs/rain-drizzle-mist-clag.html)
19 June 2011, 12:22 pm
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Lukasz’ mobile wifi service
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The team slog it
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It was nice when we got here
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Freida enjoyed the beachI’m writing this post which means our trip on Orkney is not going according to plan. Just now I should be uncoiling ropes at the foot of my project. Instead we are drinking tea, watching drizzle settle on the road outside and looking at ferry times to Kirkwall. On Hoy it seems very easy for a lot of time to pass. Day 1 was great, I had a session on the crux and felt fit and rigged about 400m of rope for the guys filming (pics on Lukasz’ blog (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/2011/06/18/hoy-update/)). Yesterday I rested tired arms after that and took Freida to see the sea. Today was time to get down to business. Nevermind.I’m not sure whether this type of this should make you highly impatient, or cleanse you of impatience? Actually I don’t mind waiting too much, even though the forecast isn’t exactly great. But a 45 board would come in handy right now.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7995289221603706488?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/3ROo1lzLhbs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Longhope Direct (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Zh4BaNVczBc/longhope-direct.html)
22 June 2011, 3:04 pm
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Approaching the guillotine flake before the crux pitch or the Longhope Direct. Photo: LW Images (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
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Starting into the crux Photo: LW Images (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
Bringing Andy Turner up to the Guillotine belay. Photo: LW Images (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
The Longhope route was first climbed as an aid route by Ed Drummond and Oliver Hill in 1970. After climbing it yesterday I have a doubly renewed respect for the boldness of climbers of that period. To venture up that cliff without cams, taking the steepest line possible was a hardcore effort. They spent 7 days climbing the route, sleeping in hammocks or in the big sandstone breaks with the fulmars. Dawes and Dunne both had a look at freeing it, albeit briefly. It was the adventure trad master John Arran, and sea cliff guru Dave Turnbull who really went for the free ascent. Over two days, they freed the lower pitches with a bivi in between and then bailed off left. A few months later, they returned, abseiling from the summit of the stack to their highpoint and climbing four more pitches to the top across another two days.But they considered Drummond’s A2 crack pitch up the centre of the overhanging headwall too hard for free climbing, which it really was given that they were climbing ground up and the pitch was going to be in the region of E10 in itself. So they climbed the big grooves to the left, traversing back in after a couple of pitches to climb the last 8 metres of the crack, which was the crux of their version which went at E7 6c after lots of tries.Oliver Hill emailed me in 2006 pointing out that the crack pitch of the original line was still there to be freed and would make a super hard trad route that seemed like a logical progression from the single pitch E10s and E11s of the past few years. Most of the world’s hardest multipitch routes with climbing of 8b or above are essentially sport routes, protected by bolts, insitu pegs or trad with bolts wherever there isn’t good gear available. Oliver thought I should bolt the Longhope route, to make it realistic. But I wasn’t really worried about having a drawn out epic trying to climb it. My idea was to have a super hard long route that was bold, loose, birdy, hard to climb in a day - as pure as possible. That’s absolutely what Scottish sea cliff climbing is about.So a drawn out epic was exactly what I had. Lots of driving back and forth to Orkney, many days of cleaning the headwall pitch and trying the moves and a two attempts from the ground, climbing the lower pitches on sight with Michael Tweedley and Donald King.This time, I took the full weight of pressure and organised a proper trip with Andy Turner to climb it with, and a team to help us capture it on film and photos (Claire MacLeod, Paul Diffley (http://hotaches.blogspot.com/), Lukasz Warzecha (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/), Matt Pycroft (http://www.facebook.com/MattPycroftMedia?ref=ts), Guy Heaton and Mariam Pousa). It’s quite scary bringing a team of people to watch you fall off a large rock for two weeks. I’m super appreciative of the help that was offered from Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/home.asp), Black Diamond (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com//), and Stoats (http://www.eatstoats.co.uk/) with the trip.
(http://mattpycroft.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1010337.jpg) (http://mattpycroft.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/p1010337.jpg)
The crawl traverse on pitch 2.Climbing it in a day was the big deal for the difficulty of the route. I knew the crux pitch,65 metres long and around 8b+ish with some long runouts would feel about 90% of my limit. But could I climb the 400 odd metres below without losing 10% of the strength in my arms. When I got to the guillotine belay before the big pitch, the answer felt like most definitely NO! I was knackered. If the pitch was 8a+ or even 8b on trad, it would be fine. But I knew it was hard enough that it just wouldn’t work if I didn’t have the energy to pull down on those wee edges. As I brought Andy up I could feel a sinking sense of failure on the route and the huge waste of opportunity. I started to wonder if the odd missed training session here and there would have made the difference? Should I not have eaten this or that? The chance to be on this route, in good conditions, with a good partner is so special. As I get older I sense more and more strongly all the time that life moves on, opportunities pass - for good. Just to have opportunity is such a gift. Wasting half chances is just not on. With this in mind and swallowing a lot of nerves, I launched up the pitch for an all out fight with no inhibitions or hesitation. On the final crux before joining John Arran’s E7 section, All I could see was the outline of the jug above me. I grabbed it and screamed with utter relief. All that was needed was to use a bit of experience to hold it together and scrap my way through The E7 part, the final roofs and the final fulmars to the summit.Today I’m eating cake in Stromness. Time to take Freida for a walk along the high street.
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Looking down the Vile Crack pitch
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Andy approaching the fulmar puke ledge ledge after pitch 1. Note the vomit splat bottom left, which went via my trousers.
More photos and video to be had on Matt Pycroft (http://www.facebook.com/MattPycroftMedia?ref=ts) and Hot Aches (http://www.facebook.com/hotaches?ref=ts) pages.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5667746686613233067?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Zh4BaNVczBc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Getting them in on Orkney (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/tu343UkEkVA/getting-them-in-on-orkney.html)
26 June 2011, 10:48 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E5v5T5dMjuw/TgcJo4ykGoI/AAAAAAAACkg/IaQRZFXOKAE/s1600/P1010430.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-E5v5T5dMjuw/TgcJo4ykGoI/AAAAAAAACkg/IaQRZFXOKAE/s1600/P1010430.jpg)
The soaring crack pitch of Mucklehouse Wall, E5 6a
Since completing the Longhope Direct, our trip on Orkney has been light of step but heavy of leg. The team are all feeling a tad fatigued from great efforts of rigging, filming and eating a lot of cake to replace all the calories that you seem to burn here. For me it’s been a lovely slow release and realisation that the route is done and I can wake up a little more to the sights and sounds of Hoy without the blinkering weight of focus on the project that tends to eclipse everything else.
So I’ve had a chance to squeeze in a couple of climbs in between filming the nature of the place a little more. I always felt that if I could manage to complete the route it would be really nice to make a film about it because everything about it - the scenery, nature and character of Hoy, not to mention the climb itself leaves quite an impression. Filmmaking is hard work to do well, so now the climb is done, the hard work begins again. Myself and Guy nipped up the Old Man of Hoy the other morning before some rather more arduous filming. Andy and I also had a great evening on the 4 pitch E5 Mucklehouse Wall. You can see in the little clip below from my compact, you have to clean most of the sandy breaks as you go, and the top pitch was rather seepy but the climbing and exposure was just amazing.
Once again the difference between new routing and just going cragging is massive. It’s just so much easier on the head to know that there are holds up there somewhere to go for because someone has passed before.The nature of the movement here, and the approach to climbing generally couldn’t be more different from what I’m used to. On hard rock I’m just so used to pulling super hard on small holds. On a good bit of the sandstone here, if you are really cranking on a small hold, then you’re probably doing it wrong, or about to break the rock. It’s very steep, but you can’t really sprint - go to fast and a sandy hold will catch you off guard. A steady, confident pace yields the most reliable upward progress. I must admit to feeling a little sleepy from a combination of fatigue from the big effort of Tuesday, and the knock on effects of teething. It’s too bad as the coming days are filled to the brim with plans of filming, rigging, derigging, climbing, and walking with heavy equipment through the sponge bogs of of the Hoy hills.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6CXHb2Vjtw/TgcJm5AnRJI/AAAAAAAACkc/KrqJPRNeyxM/s1600/P1010311.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p6CXHb2Vjtw/TgcJm5AnRJI/AAAAAAAACkc/KrqJPRNeyxM/s1600/P1010311.jpg)
Andy Turner, new route, Rora Head
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M1IqTCqWLw/TgcJrAy1tlI/AAAAAAAACkk/wQMQQnh-xnM/s1600/P1010452.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6M1IqTCqWLw/TgcJrAy1tlI/AAAAAAAACkk/wQMQQnh-xnM/s1600/P1010452.jpg)
Airy traverse pitch on Mucklehouse Wall
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oR-xb2nXy0w/TgcJsSUgupI/AAAAAAAACko/oO-7jKUUPDg/s1600/P1010466.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oR-xb2nXy0w/TgcJsSUgupI/AAAAAAAACko/oO-7jKUUPDg/s1600/P1010466.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKjmEw-ZpT8/TgcJtjq367I/AAAAAAAACks/IBJGoL3Q4so/s1600/P1010496.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DKjmEw-ZpT8/TgcJtjq367I/AAAAAAAACks/IBJGoL3Q4so/s1600/P1010496.jpg)
Perfect rock on Mucklehouse pitch 4
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nVo-HtmoeFw/TgcJur86R4I/AAAAAAAACkw/qghL00XwvEI/s1600/P1010503.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nVo-HtmoeFw/TgcJur86R4I/AAAAAAAACkw/qghL00XwvEI/s1600/P1010503.jpg)
Guy Heaton starts up the Old Man of Hoy
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CxOazLVh7A/TgcJwF_RJ9I/AAAAAAAACk0/fBLuNt6E7nc/s1600/P1010536.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8CxOazLVh7A/TgcJwF_RJ9I/AAAAAAAACk0/fBLuNt6E7nc/s1600/P1010536.jpg)
Hungry mouths
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1954704899508059327?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/tu343UkEkVA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Returning from Orkney (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ds1mcAJTLK8/returning-from-orkney.html)
8 July 2011, 8:53 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0QwfPqk1tyw/ThbEyTrNSZI/AAAAAAAACk4/uJpoJcqM4Qk/s1600/P1010551.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0QwfPqk1tyw/ThbEyTrNSZI/AAAAAAAACk4/uJpoJcqM4Qk/s1600/P1010551.jpg)
On Rats Stole my Toothbrush E5/6, Mucklehouse WallI wrote this on the way home from our trip to Orkney, having had a great time. The final days were mostly spent gathering some really cool footage for our film about the Longhope route which we’ll prepare for the autumn.(http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/2011-06-29_hoy-_MG_3006-copy.jpg) (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/2011-06-29_hoy-_MG_3006-copy.jpg)
Ed Drummond revisiting St John’s Head. Photo Lukasz Warzecha (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
For the last few days we also had a nice visit from Ed Drummond who stayed with us and walked back in to St John’s head to see his route again, 41 years after his original ascent. We filmed his return to the climb, his perspectives on it and it’s place in his life, which were very interesting. He felt the reports of my ascent were a little unfair in describing his ascent in 1970 as an old aid route, given that apart from the complete aid pitch on the top headwall, they only used around 10-15 points of aid up to the A2 crack. Of course this was a remarkable climbing feat and in what sounds like the ethic of the day for big wall routes. It’s hard for people to imagine how hardcore it was to venture onto the world’s big walls before anyone else and without cams etc.
Nowdays, I guess things are a categorised a little more cut and dry. There is less room for caveats and details in sport. In my opinion this has it’s good and bad points. Simplicity raises the game. For example - a point of aid makes it an ‘aid route’? Yes or no? It sounds like in 1970 the answer would maybe be no but now maybe yes as the climbing game has evolved. Oliver Hill referred to my ascent of the Longhope as a rehearsed ascent. I’m totally happy with that even though I climbed 4/5 of it onsight. If I rehearsed only one move it’s still a redpoint. It has to be. There is no room to make compromise look like success with redpointing - it has to be in one push with no falls. A side effect is it makes it easier for others to quantify it later when they are not familiar with the details. More importantly, on a personal level it’s good when the finish line between success and failure is absolute, binary. You either succeeded or failed to redpoint. Simplicity can be a bad influence when it obscures or distorts the real picture or just dumbs everything down.
Even words so central to sport like “winner” and “loser” must be applied carefully. If you have been watching tennis recently they keep talking about “great champions”. But there seems to be so many great champions they need a new definition already to stand out from them. It’s not enough even to refer to them as just “champions”, never mind “players” or even “people”. Edi Stark didn’t seem to want to accept my response to her question about how it felt to have done some climbs that are out of reach of some or most others. I said it was ‘nice’ to have found such a good connection with an activity like climbing. “Nice?” she repeated back to me with a mocking sarcasm. ‘Nice’ didn’t seem to cut it. Either that or it cut me out as an awkward personality?
With the exception of an overflow of enthusiasm which is a fine excuse to dispense with caution, I feel there is no need to always attach larger than life language, deeper meanings or metaphors to my experiences in climbing or elsewhere. A climb is the expression of the climber through vision for the line, preparation of the skills and movement. And it is an appreciation inherent beauty of the rock and the place as well. These things are already special in their own right. They do not need sweetening or plumping up.
Having succeeded on my own climbing vision on the Longhope route with Andy, my feeling is not of me, the climber, being at the centre of the story and I do not feel any bigger or more worthy as a result of it. Rather completing my climbing involvement on this particular cliff leaves me with a greater appreciation of the scale, permanence and impermanence of different things in nature and this has been what is awe inspiring about it. I think that climbing and mountains have a great effect on peoples lives when it helps them to appreciate their true insignificance in the world both in scale and time. Paradoxically though this actually adds to the sense of meaning in life because you simply see more clearly how you fit into the world. In the process of appreciating your insignificance, you also get closer to a true sense of your significance.
How then, do you deal with another great paradox of a major effort on a big climb; that of the feeling of invincibility that climbing can give when you are performing well and at your limit. Of course if you step back it’s obvious that the feeling cannot really be invincibility or anything approaching it. So if it’s a misinterpretation, what is the correct one? I have felt happiest in climbing when I’ve seen this feeling not as wielding personal strength or power over my climbing environment, but as aligning to it, understanding it well enough to work in harmony with it. This idea of harmony with the medium, in this case rock, is so well known that it’s a cliche. Where does the difference lie between these two subtly different interpretations of the same raw feeling. The most frustrated, isolated or bored climbers I’ve met have been those who appear to chase after brief flashes of invincibility in themselves over nature instead of seeing brief flashes of the invincibility of nature in themselves.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2086350462909947411?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ds1mcAJTLK8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Team assembled for the Gore-Tex Experience tour trip! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JgIXV5QxajE/team-assembled-for-gore-tex-experience.html)
12 July 2011, 1:30 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fObntjgdEaE/ThxJJuKa5MI/AAAAAAAAClg/vAlC48vktuo/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-032.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fObntjgdEaE/ThxJJuKa5MI/AAAAAAAAClg/vAlC48vktuo/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-032.jpg)
Helena Robinson on Shear Fear, E2 5c, Ratho Quarry
I was nervous about the weekend. From everyone who applied to our competition to win the climbing trip in Norway with us, we had already chosen 4 great climbers, all of whom sounded ideal for the project. How to choose 2 from them? It’s obviously not something I’m used to doing, and I found it hard.
But we had a nice weekend. With mega downpours soaking bits of Scotland at random, we stuck to Ratho Quarry so we could keep climbing indoors if we were unlucky. As it happened, we got to climb trad pretty much all day.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gkRh_qTXpXQ/ThxJIZTbSCI/AAAAAAAAClY/gIterYebkDU/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-041.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gkRh_qTXpXQ/ThxJIZTbSCI/AAAAAAAAClY/gIterYebkDU/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-041.jpg)
James on Sedge Warbler E2 5b
We started off with a team ascent of Shear Fear (E2) and then split into 2 teams to attack the harder routes. I ran back and forth, watching, thinking. I wasn’t so much looking for the strongest or most single minded leader. The ideal place to be to take on new routes on mountain or remote cliffs is just being an all round ‘solid’ climber. In trad climbing that means going for it, but only at the right moment, with safety either in protection or preferably ability to remember and downclimb out of trouble. It also means anticipation of problems, faffs, the sequence ahead and a million other things…
I looked for evidence of all of these skills and found plenty in all 4. There was a range of experience among them. More experience doesn’t necessarily correlate to more skills. Experience sometimes reinforces timidness, overconfidence or bad habits. James made a solid and safe lead of Shear Fear, Jake smoothly dispatched Wally 3 (E4) and both Helena and Julia made gutsy and determined leads on a very damp Gruel Brittania (E3).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUII_pvORLY/ThxJIcFz7XI/AAAAAAAAClc/aBUSULGqNWI/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-047.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUII_pvORLY/ThxJIcFz7XI/AAAAAAAAClc/aBUSULGqNWI/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-047.jpg)
Jake smoothly leading Wally 3, E4 6a
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SR8vgMfpP4c/ThxJGqeHRXI/AAAAAAAAClU/DDxX1AH5f_I/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-038.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SR8vgMfpP4c/ThxJGqeHRXI/AAAAAAAAClU/DDxX1AH5f_I/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-038.jpg)
Julia eyes up the depths of the Shear Fear flakes
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iPqOJgs60lo/ThwpV2cXahI/AAAAAAAAClE/_i3jofDoRf8/s1600/P1010621.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iPqOJgs60lo/ThwpV2cXahI/AAAAAAAAClE/_i3jofDoRf8/s1600/P1010621.jpg)
Julia going for it on Gruel Brittania (E3)
I was impressed all round. But in the end, a choice had to be made. Well done Helena and Julia - I’m looking forward to climbing granite with you in Norway!
Now that the project has taken on a new life beyond a few words and ideas typed on my screen or discussed between Gore-Tex colleagues, it seems a lot more real. I’m really looking forward to visiting a new place with such a strong team assembled. Joining us climbers will be Paul Diffley (http://www.facebook.com/hotaches)and cameras and Donald to help us rig and film. Time to train once again…
Some more great pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page. (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zvrDDQetQQs/ThxJJ5kr1OI/AAAAAAAAClk/tKqtFNIgmAw/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-055.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zvrDDQetQQs/ThxJJ5kr1OI/AAAAAAAAClk/tKqtFNIgmAw/s1600/GORE-TEX-EXPERIENCE-TOUR---MACLEOD-RATHO-055.jpg)
Helena, James, myself, Jake and Julia - it was a pleasure.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6993559352034088995?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JgIXV5QxajE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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some film from the Longhope (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/o2fbDkdItDM/some-film-from-longhope.html)
12 July 2011, 7:53 pm
Little taster from Matt Pycroft (http://www.facebook.com/MattPycroftMedia)of the shooting he did on the Longhope Route. Man that is some airy swing into space Matt! Full article is on Planetfear here. (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/The_Longhope_Route__Exclusive_1117.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3501687150393460755?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/o2fbDkdItDM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Working weak (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/H0srRNpITBo/working-weak.html)
19 July 2011, 7:18 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kSFSWrb8ZWU/TiXYHnkwn_I/AAAAAAAACl4/Cj2Rtute2CU/s400/P1020073.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kSFSWrb8ZWU/TiXYHnkwn_I/AAAAAAAACl4/Cj2Rtute2CU/s1600/P1020073.jpg)
Presenting on the Mountain Equipment stand in Germany(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHieIZUhmTg/TiXYF8jXmqI/AAAAAAAACl0/wQ4MJQ1EJMM/s400/P1020095.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHieIZUhmTg/TiXYF8jXmqI/AAAAAAAACl0/wQ4MJQ1EJMM/s1600/P1020095.jpg)Interviews(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tw_7hOjCX3g/TiXYEFxC1mI/AAAAAAAAClw/8qcNC3iYjv0/s400/P1020120.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tw_7hOjCX3g/TiXYEFxC1mI/AAAAAAAAClw/8qcNC3iYjv0/s1600/P1020120.jpg)
Speaking about our Gore Experience Tour project in Norway.It’s been a manic week of work. Travelling to the Outdoor Trade show presenting and talking to my sponsors, writing and organising a pile of stuff that needs organised. In between times, I’ve been back on my board learning to pull on small holds again after all the trad. Tomorrow, A few days of climbing will begin again. Please don't rain...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3323475336839901767?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/H0srRNpITBo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Nice short film about Ben Nevis (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/YbZeBgsQaa8/ben-from-kate-owen-on-vimeo.html)
1 August 2011, 2:46 pm
Ben (http://vimeo.com/25178734) from Kate Owen (http://vimeo.com/user3646471) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Nice video by Kate Owen about Ben Nevis. The climbing by me is on the Heather Hat boulder and Kev’s section is on Scimitar Ridge. I particularly liked the hill running part. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5856496984065954597?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/YbZeBgsQaa8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Time for small holds again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/j0Dm2ARkmYk/time-for-small-holds-again.html)
1 August 2011, 4:43 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RXV8NqlY580/Tja-TZZaIlI/AAAAAAAACmE/ZZehygttdho/s1600/_F2Z8497.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RXV8NqlY580/Tja-TZZaIlI/AAAAAAAACmE/ZZehygttdho/s1600/_F2Z8497.jpg)
Vector Space 7c+, Tunnel Wall. Pics by Steven Gordon (http://theoccasionalphotojournalist.blogspot.com/).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NVGcL9Hm32U/Tja-VYhsUxI/AAAAAAAACmI/xU3N2DdamXQ/s1600/_MG_7837.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NVGcL9Hm32U/Tja-VYhsUxI/AAAAAAAACmI/xU3N2DdamXQ/s1600/_MG_7837.jpg)The past couple of weeks have flown by, doing work for Mountain Equipment, Gore-Tex and the John Muir Trust among others, and grabbing climbing days in between. First off I nipped up to Tunnel Wall with Steven Gordon after work and climbed an excellent new line I bolted a couple of months ago.
It’s the obvious diagonal overlap running across the wall from Uncertain Emotions to eventually finish up the top half of my own route Axiom (which was upgraded to 8a, although I must say I still think 7c+ is correct). A few people had talked about equipping it and it was well worth it.
The new line ‘Vector Space’ seems to miss out all the tricky Tunnel Wall cruxes of the straight up lines, so it climbs really smoothly and worked out pretty steady even though it’s 40 odd metres long.
Since then I’ve been working out on a couple of projects at Steall which might keep me going for some time, and keep the midges going in food for some time...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7942912436075206109?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/j0Dm2ARkmYk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Running home for tea (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/oFtYigWMmdI/running-home-for-tea.html)
5 August 2011, 12:18 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u69A5BsbRWY/Tjs1g1QaSWI/AAAAAAAACmU/k08plDhA5d8/s1600/Grey+Corries.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u69A5BsbRWY/Tjs1g1QaSWI/AAAAAAAACmU/k08plDhA5d8/s1600/Grey+Corries.jpg)
The Grey Corries
The other day after baby group I went for a wee run. With the Experience Tour trip to Norway just over a week away I am needed to sharpen up and shed a pound or two quickly after having put in a few weeks of training. So after a 12 hour fast Claire dropped me off in Glen Nevis and I headed up over Meall Cumhann, across the empty Coire Giubhsachan and up that savage slope of Aonach Beag (via a wee scope about the crags of course). I was still feeling bouncy of leg after that but as I headed out across the Grey Corries I began to notice the knuckle under my left big toe getting progressively sorer after an awkward landing on a stone. Sgurr Chionnich’s Beag and Mor passed ok although running was kind of off the cards by then as the fuel switched almost exclusively to lipid. On the way up Stob Coire Nan Easain I very quickly felt like a lie down. My body was giving me a message. It emphatically did not want to ascend any more without sugar. It was hard to bail when after Easain it’s a steady cruise without much more ascent, but it’s been a while since I’ve ran so I took the chilled option and stumbled down into the massive and wild Coire nan Eoin. Despite feeling pretty lousy, the solitude of this glen was something else and I tramped quite happily in my own little zone through it’s meanders out into Leanachan Forest. However, once in Leanachan Forest, I was really ready for some dinner let me tell you so it was a fine training exercise to tramp through it’s seemingly endless tracks leading here, there and everywhere and finally back to my car in Spean Bridge.I had a pound coin in my car. It’s been a couple of decades since I’ve done this but I dived straight into the Spar shop and stood carefully in the sweetie isle calculating how I could buy the maximum amount of chocolate for 1 pound. I couldn’t believe chocolate bars are 70 odd pence these days! My prizes lasted well under a minute (1 picnic bar, one fudge, 11p change).Good day out. Might do this again next week. Tomorrow feeding midges as Steall again.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7587975520406536278?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/oFtYigWMmdI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Alan on Metalcore (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/FPCxZupxvas/alan-on-metalcore.html)
6 August 2011, 8:07 pm
Alan Cassidy - Metalcore 8c+ (http://vimeo.com/27315396) from Matt Pycroft (http://vimeo.com/mattpycroft) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Lovely video by Matt Pycroft of Alan Cassidy’s repeat of a route of mine called Metalcore (8c+) at the Anvil. Excellent effort.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1362792283838693570?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/FPCxZupxvas)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Steall and summer highland afternoons out. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KiTzob8Nz8E/steall-and-summer-highland-afternoons.html)
6 August 2011, 9:43 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pW4m4dEZSwc/Tj2g73DqiEI/AAAAAAAACmw/UB5EEyBlAWY/s1600/P1010668.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pW4m4dEZSwc/Tj2g73DqiEI/AAAAAAAACmw/UB5EEyBlAWY/s1600/P1010668.jpg)
Loch Quoich, Knoydart. I took Freida for a walk at Kinlochourn. It was a lovely afternoon.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9kpLFV6PW5Q/Tj2gz8G31oI/AAAAAAAACmk/xJDWSpYIbFo/s1600/P1010684.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9kpLFV6PW5Q/Tj2gz8G31oI/AAAAAAAACmk/xJDWSpYIbFo/s1600/P1010684.jpg)
Ben Nevis from Steall crag
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Michael dispatching the second ascent of my route The Fat Groove (8a)
I had a great but hard couple of days up there with Rich and Michael working hard on projects in fairly rubbish conditions. I now have three nice projects wired and ‘overlapping halves’ on all of them. All we need now is a fresh northwesterly and a couple of rest days for some exciting redpoints. Always love Steall sessions. The moves are super technical, sometimes downright weird, sometimes downright brutal, always pumpy as hell. Anyone fancy a session there next week?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D4j5csHYO0s/Tj2g0-OUCFI/AAAAAAAACms/HU29-o4lJ5E/s1600/P1010658.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D4j5csHYO0s/Tj2g0-OUCFI/AAAAAAAACms/HU29-o4lJ5E/s1600/P1010658.jpg)
Steven attaches big lenses to shoot the Gore-Tex ad in the Coe. Stob Coire behind.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gLl5_6wTao8/Tj2hBjOYYNI/AAAAAAAACm4/aAixvXJzUVc/s1600/P1010654.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gLl5_6wTao8/Tj2hBjOYYNI/AAAAAAAACm4/aAixvXJzUVc/s1600/P1010654.jpg)
Anna Wells suitably chuffed with her ascent of Peel’s Wall (E4), Pass of Ballater
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6pdFEWkU9tk/Tj2g_jWuWNI/AAAAAAAACm0/GeVXIYXBtlw/s1600/P1010674.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6pdFEWkU9tk/Tj2g_jWuWNI/AAAAAAAACm0/GeVXIYXBtlw/s1600/P1010674.jpg)
Unclimbed roadside boulder, Knoydart. The prow looks like a V8 or so.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6809886121719669165?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KiTzob8Nz8E)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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An Teallach with Peter (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rlQNH9Ke3pg/teallach-with-peter.html)
12 August 2011, 2:00 pm
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Yesterday the weirdest thing happened to me. I’d already been to A&E at the Belford for an X-ray of my left foot since it was still feeling extremely painful if I weighted the medial side of my foot on the Sesamoid with my big toe pulled up. It was feeling like something was definitely wrong. It was getting worse every day. The X-ray returned a negative for broken bones but just a comment that I had the weirdest feet they had ever seen. But still no explanation for the very targeted pain, except that it ‘must’ be a bruised bone.I was unconvinced. Movement was fine with great care not to stand on the medial side of my foot, so I kept a date to go for a big run with Peter. In the circumstances scaled it down to a short run and not even really a run and so headed for An Teallach.
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We set off after 3pm and slogging up Sail Mor, my foot was seriously complaining. The whole way I was contemplating a bail request, but just kept my head down for ‘another 50 metres’ all the way to the summit ridge. Once there, I stopped to put on my jacket and started walking again. WHAT???!!! No pain!!! All of a sudden, it stopped hurting and I went from mild hobbling to bounding along the ridge crest in normal hill running stylee. So, the explanation seems to be a dislocated (subluxed) sesamoid that spontaneously popped back into it’s groove. Very strange experience.
With healthy Dave unexpectedly restored, we commenced a fun dash over the An Teallach Ridge, which was most satisfying
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Testing my shiny new Firelite Jacket before Norway
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Peter enjoying speed-scrambling on Sgurr Fiona
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xnSe-KvBiSU/TkUtXUXBJUI/AAAAAAAACng/29GbCruPaK0/s1600/P1010725.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xnSe-KvBiSU/TkUtXUXBJUI/AAAAAAAACng/29GbCruPaK0/s1600/P1010725.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtGvNWqmGCA/TkUtXNCIjwI/AAAAAAAACnc/KcGmA65HQUI/s1600/P1010743.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KtGvNWqmGCA/TkUtXNCIjwI/AAAAAAAACnc/KcGmA65HQUI/s1600/P1010743.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8596598676971481732?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rlQNH9Ke3pg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Two new routes at Steall (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Eai0nb-ek1I/two-new-routes-at-steall.html)
12 August 2011, 6:14 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-neyHzCB957c/TkUt2jKqboI/AAAAAAAACns/4MNIsxEFn3w/s640/Steall+Pics-21.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-neyHzCB957c/TkUt2jKqboI/AAAAAAAACns/4MNIsxEFn3w/s1600/Steall+Pics-21.jpg)
The belay in sight at the end of Maxwell’s Demon 8b+, Steall during the first ascent. Pic by Steven Gordon. Steven has uploaded a nice gallery from the day on his site here. (http://stevengordon.eu/component/gallery/15/one-day-at-the-steall-hut-crag.html)It’s not so often I get to the chain on two sport projects at Steall in one day, never mind two first ascents. Finally a break the humidity allowed me to get some redpoints in. First off, I took an interest in an old project climbing straight through the central cave, taking in the crux of Arcadia and breaking out onto the headwall to join the finish of Ring of Steall. Duncan McCallum had first tried the line in the nineties but abandoned it and it was de-bolted after some unnatural holds briefly appeared (and were filled in very well).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BtIdEgss9Gc/TkUt2edlmdI/AAAAAAAACno/jIpVEtTl5r4/s640/Steall+Pics-14.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BtIdEgss9Gc/TkUt2edlmdI/AAAAAAAACno/jIpVEtTl5r4/s1600/Steall+Pics-14.jpg)
I re-equipped the start and finish (the middle bit takes in a couple of trad placements on the Arcadia crack) but it was always either too cold or seeping or I had a crap sequence. Anyway, the other day I managed to do it and thought it was excellent. I had originally thought it was 8b but after a bit of a scrap for a few attempts even in dry conditions it felt a bit more like 8b+. Next up I went straight onto an excellent link-up possibility that Michael first pointed out to me. Climbing pretty much all of The Fat Groove (8a), across the lip of the roof of Maxwell’s Demon, reversing the crux traverse of Arcadia and finishing up most of Leopold (8a) to give a 40 metre diagonal stamina monster. Michael’s proposed that if it would go it would be a ‘5 star mega classic’. I can confirm that’s pretty much how it climbed. It takes in a lot of cruxes of 8as and harder, but with some good, if body pumping rests. I called this one Steallworker (8b).What a nice way to round off a couple of weeks climbing at home before I leave tomorrow for the Gore-Tex Experience Tour trip to Norway.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnY7iW_4cuc/TkUt2L-s0HI/AAAAAAAACnk/cNCOLgtea-k/s640/Steall+Pics-29.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnY7iW_4cuc/TkUt2L-s0HI/AAAAAAAACnk/cNCOLgtea-k/s1600/Steall+Pics-29.jpg)
Throw in another kneebar and press on! Halfway along the big link-up on Steallworker 8b during the first ascent.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3111880800166754359?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Eai0nb-ek1I)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Day 1 in Norway (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MJSe4-TLu4o/day-1-in-norway.html)
16 August 2011, 9:30 am
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I write quickly before we go back into the mountains for more climbing in Norway. Yesterday, we did our start of trip faff, buying food etc and drove round for an evening session on Blammanen. We managed to choose a line to try and did 2 50 metre pitches of E6 6b. The next pitch looks extremely hard and blank, going through roofs. But if that goes, the rest of the route should too. Time to send Donald out in front with the aid gear! That is the project for the next two days at least.I was feeling a little daunted at the prospect of doing it all again today after finally making dinner at 2am after climbing yesterday. but Helena’s pancakes this morning have squashed this feeling a little.
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZProGzkuzI8/TkoyjVc137I/AAAAAAAACoI/fVGjtQJlbwM/s1600/P1010846.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZProGzkuzI8/TkoyjVc137I/AAAAAAAACoI/fVGjtQJlbwM/s1600/P1010846.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hNfWNlUi0Oo/TkoykMVI9KI/AAAAAAAACoM/ky-1k_AbVwA/s1600/P1010849.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hNfWNlUi0Oo/TkoykMVI9KI/AAAAAAAACoM/ky-1k_AbVwA/s1600/P1010849.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2008658479131437052?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MJSe4-TLu4o)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Norway Day 3 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/4nlG7Si7iQk/norway-day-3.html)
19 August 2011, 11:49 am
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Julia exploring granite boulders, Blammanen. All pics by Paul Diffley/Hot Aches. Paul's uploaded a nice gallery of pics to the Gore-Tex facebook page. (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.235637123138576.55270.131920556843567)
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Helena enjoying warm sunshine and cool shade in Ersfjord
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Julia working Ramadan, 8a, Ersfjord
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Today we are resting sore fingers from the Ersfjord granite in Norway, for a morning at least. Later, I’m off for a proper explore of the faces and boulders above Ersfjord itself. Things have been going up and down here over the past 2 days, as is normal for the business of looking for hard new routes. We were doing well on a route on Blammanen and I was getting most excited. But some logistical problems made us realise it would be difficult to do it safely in the time we have here. So yesterday we went to another venue.Straight away I saw a great line to start working on, and after a couple of hours on it, had done the moves. It’s a 70 metre pitch and a difficult crux after 30 metres. I think it’ll take a little time, and some better conditions. I’ve never been great at climbing granite, since there isn’t much steep granite in Scotland. But I’ve definitely learnt a lot in the past 4 days, and I’m eager to put it to good use. Last night was quite hard work as it was unexpectedly hot and humid. Not what I was expecting from this trip I must say. A lot of skin was lost from the team’s fingertips. Tomorrow, maybe we look at somewhere different again.I think all of us are getting into the flow of the climbing here.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1720700611387223507?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/4nlG7Si7iQk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ersfjord time (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xxryKti1a7A/ersfjord-time.html)
20 August 2011, 7:51 pm
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Julia scoping out new route potential
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A little rain sweeps across Ersfjord. It didn’t last.
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Helena getting ready and climbing Turistklasse - a lovely traverse out above the space below.
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Everyone’s fingertips are really suffering now at the hands of the unforgiving Ersfjord granite. Even after a rest our tips were still pink and small holds feel unpleasant to pull on. However, we went for it anyway. I bolted a superb line on a massive roof after two tries I was ready for a redpoint try, all except my fingers. Down to the last layer before a trip ruining split tip, I had to stop until tomorrow morning.Afterwards I bolted two more new routes and belayed Julia while she bolted another. So between us we have made some progress on quite a few different projects, and the forecast is still nice. Diff has made a lovely video of Julia climbing one of the island’s best 7b+s over on the Gore-Tex experience tour facebook page here. (http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=2108249940228&oid=131920556843567&comments)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3718575770209912182?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xxryKti1a7A)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Norway videos (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/X-zuH1pr9f4/norway-videos.html)
22 August 2011, 1:28 pm
Two nice videos below by Paul Diffley of Helena and Julia climbing in Ersfjord and Gulknausen. Yesterday, Donald and Helena went for a big ridge traverse run over Blamman and the chain of mountains beyond. Meanwhile I spent more time cleaning and trying moves on new routes. Right now we are waiting for the cool of the evening (plus dilligently cultivating fingertip skin) so we have half a chance of holding small holds in the roofs of Ersfjord.
Paul is sitting beside me editing another video, which will be on the Gore-Tex facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts) at some point soon.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3866453243321966680?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/X-zuH1pr9f4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ersfjord new route (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Dh0Bu31XYH0/ersfjord-new-route.html)
23 August 2011, 10:11 am
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Centre Court 8b/+ first ascent, Tunga, Ersfjord. Gore-Tex jacket keeping the finishing hold dry until Donald pulled it away at the last moment. More pics on the Gore-Tex Experience Tour page here. (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.235637123138576.55270.131920556843567)When jumping around the huge boulderfield at Ersfjord, one boulder stood out and had me clambering straight for it and uncoiling my rope. Tunga is a huge leaning fin of granite. Currently home to the route Piercing (8b+ and currently the hardest route in northern Norway). I spotted a nice looking line leading across the wall into the upper half of Piercing and taking in it’s crux, so I got that bolted up straight away. I was hoping it would be a wee bit harder than Piercing, but in the end it’s about the same difficulty. There was only enough fingertip skin for 2 quick tries and then I was worried about split tips. So last night I returned but it was still so hot and humid I initially decided not to climb at all.A whiff of breeze changed my mind, and it was just as well I succeeded first try since my fingers would not have stood another attempt. I can’t decide if its 8b or 8b+ (same goes for Piercing) so it has a split grade. Maybe if it wasn’t so humid it would have felt easier. I spent the rest of the session trying another line I bolted, 8b+/c or 8c+ depending on the chosen finish. I doubt I’ll have time to finish it before we leave, but I’ll have a go!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GlI6LiJM4jg/TlN623gar_I/AAAAAAAACo0/BLASP2RZecg/s640/GoreTex+Exp+Tour+Norway+Day6+068.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GlI6LiJM4jg/TlN623gar_I/AAAAAAAACo0/BLASP2RZecg/s1600/GoreTex+Exp+Tour+Norway+Day6+068.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_7X6mb4Yng/TlN66k4BCEI/AAAAAAAACo4/O7hs0g4s1i0/s640/GoreTex+Exp+Tour+Norway+Day6+066.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_7X6mb4Yng/TlN66k4BCEI/AAAAAAAACo4/O7hs0g4s1i0/s1600/GoreTex+Exp+Tour+Norway+Day6+066.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-124710439841077373?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Dh0Bu31XYH0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Norway feeling Scottish for a day. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/tC40LtmR_bA/norway-feeling-scottish-for-day.html)
24 August 2011, 11:34 am
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One rainy day and autumn doesn’t feel too far away in Kaldfjord
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_QGMihtIyD8/TlTgBOINyHI/AAAAAAAACpA/VeXx1P6nNKM/s640/P1010982.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_QGMihtIyD8/TlTgBOINyHI/AAAAAAAACpA/VeXx1P6nNKM/s1600/P1010982.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oajoHfPeKog/TlTgF0RTrWI/AAAAAAAACpE/yRywZj1bX38/s640/P1010986.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oajoHfPeKog/TlTgF0RTrWI/AAAAAAAACpE/yRywZj1bX38/s1600/P1010986.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBTUEOovwaI/TlTgHtfb87I/AAAAAAAACpM/ftFyxllrbUo/s640/P1010989.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NBTUEOovwaI/TlTgHtfb87I/AAAAAAAACpM/ftFyxllrbUo/s1600/P1010989.jpg)
Yesterday was dreich here, and only one (wet) problem got climbed in great style campusing up wet slopers, muddy boots dangling behind. Great boulder though! To be honest, an enforced rest is exactly what I needed. Skin was seriously lacking on my fingertips and I’m sure I’ll be on good form for a nice route after some muscle rest time too. Today more boulder hopping and exploring while the crags slowly dry out.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8365333757434938550?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/tC40LtmR_bA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Helena's jump (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/nBAPFWgs_U8/helenas-jump.html)
27 August 2011, 9:43 am
My body is still sore from a long day out on Blamman. We are back off up there today to collect ropes and things as our trip is almost over. The past couple of days have been fantastic though. Here is a wee video of Helena doing a victory jump off the Tunga boulder. More vids are on the way. For now, I have to go and pack and head out for another long day climbing. Excellent.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9135580816272420478?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/nBAPFWgs_U8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Boulder hopping (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7zDPnB_na50/boulder-hopping.html)
29 August 2011, 1:12 pm
Paul Diffley and I spent an afternoon boulder hopping around the crags in Ersfjord, making this little film of running and a bit of impromptu soloing. Excellent fun.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-265985580640828551?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7zDPnB_na50)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bongo Bar first free ascent, Blamman (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EROWCYD2Ouw/bongo-bar-first-free-ascent-blamman.html)
29 August 2011, 1:44 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6c5c_41Lf6Y/TluRJSM_EQI/AAAAAAAACpU/tlErGoYxiBc/s640/UnBongo+114.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6c5c_41Lf6Y/TluRJSM_EQI/AAAAAAAACpU/tlErGoYxiBc/s1600/UnBongo+114.jpg)
On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blamman, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions. More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts?ref=ts) shortly, and also on Julia's blog (http://uasunflower.blogspot.com/2011/08/freeing-bongo-bar-on-blamannen-dave-in.html) and Hot Aches blog (http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2011/08/bongo-bar-norway-or-as-i-like-to-call.html).
Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I wanted to do was a new free route on the north face of Blamman. It’s only been in the past few years that the aid routes here have been considered as big wall objectives for free climbers. The visits by the Austrian climbers Auer and Mayr brought the wall to international attention, and it was their pictures (http://hansjoerg-auer.at/norway-2/) that made me first think of coming here, followed closely by Marten Blixt's excellent guidebook. (http://blixt.web.surftown.nu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=28&osCsid=090da62d4887de99565f44608f5b9128)Those pictures were from their attempt to free climb the aid route Bongo Bar. They freed the first two pitches at 7b+, 7c+ (although the second is more like 7b+), but the overhanging pitch 3 through the roofs was wet and they traversed left into the ‘Atlantis’ and abseiled off to create the route ‘Tinkerbell’. Their route was finished to the top of the wall this summer by locals Andreas Klarstrom and Thomas Meling (Pinocchio 400m, 7c).
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wus2Bobrc5I/TluRImLbaZI/AAAAAAAACpQ/SPz3Zm0Tfps/s640/UnBongo+105.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wus2Bobrc5I/TluRImLbaZI/AAAAAAAACpQ/SPz3Zm0Tfps/s1600/UnBongo+105.jpg)
On day one of our trip, we could see Blamman from Tromso airport, standing out from the other peaks on the skyline. When we drove round to the approach and could see the north face, I could hardly get my sack full of ropes on quick enough. But arriving under the wall, it was less clear if Bongo Bar would be possible. It looked really steep and blank through the roofs. But then again, all the other potential new lines looked rather desperate also! Lots of overhanging closed granite seams, with apparently sheer and featureless sidewalls. Andreas and a friend were stationed 60 metres up a new route, and were obviously having an exciting time. He was shouting down, encouraging us to look at Bongo Bar, and so I thought we should at least give it a shot.A 55m E6 6b pitch to start was a rough warm up, and a reminder that we have no steep granite laybacking to speak of in Scotland. The following pitch went rather better. E6 6b again and the best granite pitch I have climbed anywhere. Perfect laybacking with spaced but good protection.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLE_8IOZV0/TluRKTNbtFI/AAAAAAAACpY/pz56fQIJa0s/s640/UnBongo+116.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLE_8IOZV0/TluRKTNbtFI/AAAAAAAACpY/pz56fQIJa0s/s1600/UnBongo+116.jpg)
The next day, I sent Donald onto the crux third pitch (A3) with the aiding gear. It looked hard and scary. ‘Bong, Bong, Bong’ a hollow ringing from his peg hammer came from over the first roof, followed by an exclamation; ‘Jings, Crivens and help me John Boy!’ Donald had just realised that the crack he was aiding up was actually a huge pancake flake, tottering in a groove waiting for an unsuspecting aid climber to release it from it’s perch. He was not a happy man and came down, suggesting it might be better if I delicately free climbed past it. That I did, only to find the next flake made the previous one look solid. My exclamation was less civilised. I did continue, half aiding, half free to the next belay, to find that pitch 4 looked almost as hard. After another day, I’d worked each move on pitch 3 but needed more time for pitch 4. The forecast looked poor, we were unsure how to manage with logistics of a team ascent with many sharp edges about and a prospect of me doing most or all of the leading. We had a discussion on the belay and reluctantly decided to bail.However, my greatest failing is never being able to leave things like this and a few days later, I resurrected the idea of a free ascent - I would put in another day of dangling about to clean pitch 4 and scope out some of the pitches above while Helena and Julia ticked classic routes on Hollendran and then I wouls hopefully go for a redpoint with Julia if the weather held.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jSWUJq2C01w/TluRZQUNkGI/AAAAAAAACpc/IJwTyz2hziQ/s640/P1010071.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jSWUJq2C01w/TluRZQUNkGI/AAAAAAAACpc/IJwTyz2hziQ/s1600/P1010071.jpg)
Moving around the arete, Bongo Bar pitch 7 (E5 6a)Some rain threatened our chances. I walked up with Julia to find the black streaks of pitch 3 still looking dry-ish, so we started with no expectations. The two 7b+ pitches flew past and hanging on the belay 100 metres up the wall, inevitably expectations crept in to our minds. Speaking of expectations, Julia seemed to have no questions that I’d be able to dispatch the 8a (E8 6c) pitch above, and told me so in her direct but ever positive style. I launched up the pitch, climbing smoothly at first but wobbling into the crux and seriously losing my cool. I looked behind me for the crucial thumb press; it was wet, and so was the foothold. There was no time for hesitation and as I began to slip off backwards I threw my right hand across the corner without enough time to look for the hold first. Two fingers caught it and with a grunt I stayed on and continued with ‘Elvis leg’ all the way to the ledge.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fz_EgROpzSE/TluRa-_qTUI/AAAAAAAACpg/7m8r-NVvlZg/s640/P1010109.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fz_EgROpzSE/TluRa-_qTUI/AAAAAAAACpg/7m8r-NVvlZg/s1600/P1010109.jpg)
Julia still smiling, pitch after pitchJulia’s task of seconding the pitch was going to be one of the main hurdles of the route. 8a climbing, not having been on it before, carrying a rucksack and a 45 metre diagonal pitch through roofs with razor sharp edges. Not for the faint hearted really. The rope came in steadily without a sound. Pulling on gear where she could to avoid weighting the rope and sawing it on the edges, Julia was up in 30 minutes, still smiling and directing me to dispatch the balancy 7c pitch above. After that performance, I thought I’d better.I climbed it well and in no time was swimming up layback cracks in the upper pitches. Julia was determined to go out in front and lead pitch 6. We were climbing onsight now and the pitch turned out to be 7a (E5 6a) and 60 metres long. She was obviously tired from carrying our jackets, food and water on the hard pitches below but still went for it. After 20 metres, she shouted that she had decided to make a belay on a slab. A good belay? She shouted yes, and then as I arrived admitted it was two old peckers from an aid ascent plus a poor cam and didn’t want to tell me before. We excavated a welcome backup cam placement and I headed around the corner and up endless cracks, now bathed in the lovely late evening sun. A BASE jumper leaped past us just before we topped out on Blamman, and he touched down safely before we could even finish the last pitch and begin our tired stumble down for 1am pasta. Bongo Bar - the name kept reminding us 30 something brits of this song (http://youtu.be/wYj5o4kQsXs) from our childhood!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cQB6a6A2bws/TluRc5SorzI/AAAAAAAACpk/VRMadMALf_I/s640/P1010995.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cQB6a6A2bws/TluRc5SorzI/AAAAAAAACpk/VRMadMALf_I/s1600/P1010995.jpg)
Blamman north faceI have a feeling that despite the unpredictable Norwegian climate, Blamman will be one of the most famous walls in europe for hard granite big wall climbs in the coming years. It’s a very accessible place and yet really impressive with some of the best granite you’ll find anywhere. Thanks to the Gore-Tex experience tour (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts?ref=ts) for sending myself, Helena, Julia, Donald and Paul on the trip, and to all the locals who helped us with information and encouragement. It was a pleasure. Here is a taster from Paul's film of Bongo Bar.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-189672496842031110?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EROWCYD2Ouw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bongo Bar first free ascent, Blåmann (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EROWCYD2Ouw/bongo-bar-first-free-ascent-blamman.html)
30 August 2011, 5:31 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6c5c_41Lf6Y/TluRJSM_EQI/AAAAAAAACpU/tlErGoYxiBc/s640/UnBongo+114.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6c5c_41Lf6Y/TluRJSM_EQI/AAAAAAAACpU/tlErGoYxiBc/s1600/UnBongo+114.jpg)
On the first free ascent of Bongo Bar, Blåmann, Norway. 400m, 7b+, 7b+, 8a, 7c, 7b, 6c, 7a, 6b. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions. More pictures on the Gore-Tex facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts?ref=ts) shortly, and also on Julia's blog (http://uasunflower.blogspot.com/2011/08/freeing-bongo-bar-on-blamannen-dave-in.html) and Hot Aches blog (http://hotaches.blogspot.com/2011/08/bongo-bar-norway-or-as-i-like-to-call.html).
Between the three of us, we have climbed a ton of superb granite routes during our stay in Kvaloya. Some of the classic established routes, which are as good as anywhere in the world, and a few great new routes. But before coming here, the biggest thing in my mind that I wanted to do was a new free route on the north face of Blåmann. It’s only been in the past few years that the aid routes here have been considered as big wall objectives for free climbers. The visits by the Austrian climbers Auer and Mayr brought the wall to international attention, and it was their pictures (http://hansjoerg-auer.at/norway-2/) that made me first think of coming here, followed closely by Marten Blixt's excellent guidebook. (http://blixt.web.surftown.nu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=28&osCsid=090da62d4887de99565f44608f5b9128)Those pictures were from their attempt to free climb the aid route Bongo Bar. They freed the first two pitches at 7b+, 7c+ (although the second is more like 7b+), but the overhanging pitch 3 through the roofs was wet and they traversed left into the ‘Atlantis’ and abseiled off to create the route 'Tingeling' (Tinkerbell in English). Their route was finished to the top of the wall this summer by locals Andreas Klarstrom and Thomas Meling (Peter Pan 400m, 7b+).
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wus2Bobrc5I/TluRImLbaZI/AAAAAAAACpQ/SPz3Zm0Tfps/s640/UnBongo+105.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wus2Bobrc5I/TluRImLbaZI/AAAAAAAACpQ/SPz3Zm0Tfps/s1600/UnBongo+105.jpg)
On day one of our trip, we could see Blåmann from Tromso airport, standing out from the other peaks on the skyline. When we drove round to the approach and could see the north face, I could hardly get my sack full of ropes on quick enough. But arriving under the wall, it was less clear if Bongo Bar would be possible. It looked really steep and blank through the roofs. But then again, all the other potential new lines looked rather desperate also! Lots of overhanging closed granite seams, with apparently sheer and featureless sidewalls. Andreas and a friend were stationed 60 metres up a new route, and were obviously having an exciting time. He was shouting down, encouraging us to look at Bongo Bar, and so I thought we should at least give it a shot.A 55m E6 6b pitch to start was a rough warm up, and a reminder that we have no steep granite laybacking to speak of in Scotland. The following pitch went rather better. E6 6b again and the best granite pitch I have climbed anywhere. Perfect laybacking with spaced but good protection.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLE_8IOZV0/TluRKTNbtFI/AAAAAAAACpY/pz56fQIJa0s/s640/UnBongo+116.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NvLE_8IOZV0/TluRKTNbtFI/AAAAAAAACpY/pz56fQIJa0s/s1600/UnBongo+116.jpg)
The next day, I sent Donald onto the crux third pitch (A3) with the aiding gear. It looked hard and scary. ‘Bong, Bong, Bong’ a hollow ringing from his peg hammer came from over the first roof, followed by an exclamation; ‘Jings, Crivens and help me John Boy!’ Donald had just realised that the crack he was aiding up was actually a huge pancake flake, tottering in a groove waiting for an unsuspecting aid climber to release it from it’s perch. He was not a happy man and came down, suggesting it might be better if I delicately free climbed past it. That I did, only to find the next flake made the previous one look solid. My exclamation was less civilised. I did continue, half aiding, half free to the next belay, to find that pitch 4 looked almost as hard. After another day, I’d worked each move on pitch 3 but needed more time for pitch 4. The forecast looked poor, we were unsure how to manage with logistics of a team ascent with many sharp edges about and a prospect of me doing most or all of the leading. We had a discussion on the belay and reluctantly decided to bail.However, my greatest failing is never being able to leave things like this and a few days later, I resurrected the idea of a free ascent - I would put in another day of dangling about to clean pitch 4 and scope out some of the pitches above while Helena and Julia ticked classic routes on Hollendran and then I would hopefully go for a redpoint with Julia if the weather held.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jSWUJq2C01w/TluRZQUNkGI/AAAAAAAACpc/IJwTyz2hziQ/s640/P1010071.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jSWUJq2C01w/TluRZQUNkGI/AAAAAAAACpc/IJwTyz2hziQ/s1600/P1010071.jpg)
Moving around the arete, Bongo Bar pitch 7 (E5 6a)Some rain threatened our chances. I walked up with Julia to find the black streaks of pitch 3 still looking dry-ish, so we started with no expectations. The two 7b+ pitches flew past and hanging on the belay 100 metres up the wall, inevitably expectations crept in to our minds. Speaking of expectations, Julia seemed to have no questions that I’d be able to dispatch the 8a (E8 6c) pitch above, and told me so in her direct but ever positive style. I launched up the pitch, climbing smoothly at first but wobbling into the crux and seriously losing my cool. I looked behind me for the crucial thumb press; it was wet, and so was the foothold. There was no time for hesitation and as I began to slip off backwards I threw my right hand across the corner without enough time to look for the hold first. Two fingers caught it and with a grunt I stayed on and continued with ‘Elvis leg’ all the way to the ledge.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fz_EgROpzSE/TluRa-_qTUI/AAAAAAAACpg/7m8r-NVvlZg/s640/P1010109.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fz_EgROpzSE/TluRa-_qTUI/AAAAAAAACpg/7m8r-NVvlZg/s1600/P1010109.jpg)
Julia still smiling, pitch after pitchJulia’s task of seconding the pitch was going to be one of the main hurdles of the route. 8a climbing, not having been on it before, carrying a rucksack and a 45 metre diagonal pitch through roofs with razor sharp edges. Not for the faint hearted really. The rope came in steadily without a sound. Pulling on gear where she could to avoid weighting the rope and sawing it on the edges, Julia was up in 30 minutes, still smiling and directing me to dispatch the balancy 7c pitch above. After that performance, I thought I’d better.I climbed it well and in no time was swimming up layback cracks in the upper pitches. Julia was determined to go out in front and lead pitch 6. We were climbing onsight now and the pitch turned out to be 7a (E5 6a) and 60 metres long. She was obviously tired from carrying our jackets, food and water on the hard pitches below but still went for it. After 20 metres, she shouted that she had decided to make a belay on a slab. A good belay? She shouted yes, and then as I arrived admitted it was two old peckers from an aid ascent plus a poor cam and didn’t want to tell me before. We excavated a welcome backup cam placement and I headed around the corner and up endless cracks, now bathed in the lovely late evening sun. A BASE jumper leaped past us just before we topped out on Blåmann, and he touched down safely before we could even finish the last pitch and begin our tired stumble down for 1am pasta. Bongo Bar - the name kept reminding us 30 something brits of this song (http://youtu.be/wYj5o4kQsXs) from our childhood!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cQB6a6A2bws/TluRc5SorzI/AAAAAAAACpk/VRMadMALf_I/s640/P1010995.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cQB6a6A2bws/TluRc5SorzI/AAAAAAAACpk/VRMadMALf_I/s1600/P1010995.jpg)
Blåmann north faceI have a feeling that despite the unpredictable Norwegian climate, Blåmann will be one of the most famous walls in Europe for hard granite big wall climbs in the coming years. It’s a very accessible place and yet really impressive with some of the best granite you’ll find anywhere. Thanks to the Gore-Tex experience tour (http://www.facebook.com/GORETEX.OutdoorProducts?ref=ts) for sending myself, Helena, Julia, Donald and Paul on the trip, and to all the locals who helped us with information and encouragement. It was a pleasure. Here is a taster from Paul's film of Bongo Bar.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-189672496842031110?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EROWCYD2Ouw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Longhope fine art prints (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/UoXvGLlZME4/longhope-fine-art-prints.html)
3 September 2011, 4:12 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aQXAD41056A/TmJOQBP94YI/AAAAAAAACpo/SD2EWhm8EUI/s640/picture-153.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/longhopeprint.html)
Along with Lukasz Warzecha we are producing a limited edition of 100 fine art prints of his great image above showing the first ascent of The Longhope route, E10/11, Orkney. We thought it really grabs you as an inspiring climbing image of a special route, so it would be nice to make a print available. I have signed and numbered each print. The prints are A3, unframed with a white border and are printed on Ilford Pearl paper and are £75 (shipping worldwide as always). The actual print is not watermarked with the LWimages text. The prints are available in the webshop right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/longhopeprint.html) If you’re into your climbing photography Lukasz is running a weekend photography workshop in North Wales Sept 30th-Oct 2nd. I’m going along to do be in front of the camera (hopefully doing some good climbs!). There a few spaces left. Details on Lukasz’ site. (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/2011/07/31/my-photography-workshops/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6246423212354769083?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/UoXvGLlZME4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Centre Court 8b/+ video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/0TUDlKoI5-8/centre-court-8b-video.html)
3 September 2011, 4:20 pm
The final video clip from the Gore-Tex Experience Tour trip in Norway is now up. My new route at the Tunga boulder, Ersfjord - Centre Court 8b/+. Mega route. I also bolted an extended start to Piercing (8b/+) which shares the same finish as this route, but since we put our time into Bongo Bar on Blamann, I didn’t get a chance to finish it. So it’s there as a project for some keen locals or visitors. Would be around 8c. Go to it! And if you don’t get it, I might just come back sometime soon and do it myself.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2874234840946995124?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/0TUDlKoI5-8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Arnaud's E10 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/aXN-GDrqWmE/arnauds-e10.html)
11 September 2011, 12:15 pm
Excellent video below of Arnaud Petit climbing Black Bean (8b) at Ceuse on trad gear to give an E10 7a. What a lovely looking route. I was wondering if there would ever be a movement towards doing some harder trad on the big famous limestone cliffs in Europe. Toni Arbones always told me that folk told him he was crazy for trying it on Montsant etc. The next level I guess would be to do something like this as a a first ascent of a new line at a high grade without any bolts being in place. I reckon somebody will do it soon.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2147609073239269974?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/aXN-GDrqWmE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review: The Scene DVD (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fxYCcD_QJU8/review-scene-dvd.html)
25 September 2011, 12:33 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/thescene.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thescene.html) Chuck Fryberger has been on a mission to inject some style into climbing and climbing films. I enjoyed some of the mega footage from his last film Core and was eager to see his latest climbing flick ‘The Scene’. Chuck has based himself in various modern centres where the world’s best climbers seem to be gathering right now such as Innsbruck, Catalunya, Boulder and various other areas around the USA. There are some quite nice interviews with the best climbers of the moment talking about what fires them up and why they have chosen their particular path within climbing and settled in their chosen area.
The climbing: We kick off with some nice trad crack climbing around Moab with Steph Davis among others. This was my least favourite part of the film although friends I watched it with thought it was great. A blaze of excellent bouldering sequences around the US follow - very inspiring. Nalle Hukkataival reminds us just how strong the human body can be with a few muscly genes and a life of travelling about between world class boulders. It was also great to see more of Dave Graham, still clearly a powerhouse of enthusiasm. Before we leave the US, there is a nice chapter on trad headpointing and a really nice 8b trad ascent by MAtt Wilder which I enjoyed watching a lot. Then we go to Innsbruck and get a glimpse into the over-caffeinated sugary drink company fulled and funded life of Kilian Fischuber and friends on the boulder comp scene. Lots of flashing lights, cool people, cool music and impressive displays of plastic crushing strength. A branch of climbing that is clearly becoming further and further removed from it’s old-school roots. The leading competition section is led by a profile of the machine that is Ramonet. The climbing sequences make it fairly obvious why he’s exerting his dominance over everyone, even Ondra in the comp world right now. He looks like he’d be a world class athlete in whatever sport he chose. Finally we are back in the ever thriving scene of the Catalunya sport crags with Dani Andrada, Daila Ojeda smoothly dispatching an excellent 8c and Chris Sharma, just as impressive as ever trying and completing a monster 9b pitch at Oliana. A subtle education of the current direction of climbing, and a great pre-training session flick of psyche. Already watched it three times since my stock of DVDs arrived last week. It’s avaible in the webshop right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thescene.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4481335424639593931?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fxYCcD_QJU8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Preparation for the good conditions season (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JmFc7VgwjFo/preparation-for-good-conditions-season.html)
25 September 2011, 1:03 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jmN-HazDWFs/Tn8jKtpbD9I/AAAAAAAACps/Ij5xxkvY2BQ/s640/monsterveggen.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jmN-HazDWFs/Tn8jKtpbD9I/AAAAAAAACps/Ij5xxkvY2BQ/s1600/monsterveggen.jpg)
Alex on ‘Boeing 747’ 7c, Monsterveggen, Stavanger I’ve been quite enjoying a little time without any project focus in particular except training for the season of cold weather and holding onto small holds again. The Scottish autumn deluge has been not frustratingly bad, so no chances to get on my sport project. But at least absence makes the heart more psyched. Last week, an enforced week of no climbing due to a bit of film work helped even more to make me super restless to climb. I’m just home from that and will be hitting my board as soon as this post is written. I had a lovely weekend back in Norway doing a fun day of coaching clinics and a lecture in Stavanger. The day afterwards we took a little drive around and pointed at almost countless new route, nay, new crag possibilities in abundance here. Like Scotland though, good weather was not in abundance and I fought my way up a rather damp 8a+ to clear my hangover.
It's also a great time of year for me to do some work which fits quite nicely (well OK, acceptably) around training. This weekend I'm working on Lukasz Warsecha's climbing photography workshop in Wales (there are 2 spaces left (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/lwimages-autumn-photography-workshops-shoot-with-dave-macleod/) on the course I hear). Later this month I'm doing a lot of lectures around the country so I might see some of you. For the first time in my climbing life I'm starting to think a little more in advance about what I might do next summer, and make some plans son for travelling to some cool projects.
A small trip is getting close now to look at another steep sport project I’ve been told about but not seen in the flesh. We don’t have much time to climb it, but I’m pretty sure when we see it we’ll be keen to pull out the stops and try our level best. Better go train...
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7015356948774955582?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JmFc7VgwjFo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Five new things in our shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MwNeB6tcF0c/five-new-things-in-our-shop.html)
25 September 2011, 1:40 pm
While I was away last week Claire uploaded five new products to the webshop which we think you’ll like. Here’s a quick run through: (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/alpinist35.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/alpinist35.html) Alpinist issue 35 - We have the latest issue of Alpinist, as ever a beautiful publication. Articles in this issue include Sonnie Trotter showing us around Squamish, perspectives on soloing with Alex Honnold and other nice mountaineering feature by Barry Blanchard, Kyle Dempster and others. It’s here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/alpinist35.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/munrosinwinter.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/munrosinwinter.html) The Munros in Winter - Martin Moran’s book telling his story of the first traverse of the Munros in winter in a single season in 1985 was one of the first books I read about climbing when I’d just discovered the Scottish mountains at 15. It inspired me and intrigued me about the locations and awakened a desire to go and do some exploring of my own. It’s been out of print for some time and has just been republished. Whether you go into the mountains to walk, climb fish or whatever, this book will strike a chord with anyone into mountains and mountaineering challenges. It’s here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/munrosinwinter.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainmarathon.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainmarathon.html) The Mountain Marathon Book - speaking of mountain challenges, mountain marathons are more popular than ever and the growth of organised races around the UK and the world has meant that the general standard of hill runners appears to have raised my some measure. To get anywhere, it’s pretty essential to get all of the basic tactics and techniques right, and to know a fair bit about how to plan your training. As always there is tons of information online, but you have to be already fairly expert to be able to spot the wheat from the chaff. This is the first comprehensive instructional book for hill runners covering all aspects of preparation for events - events, tactics, equipment, training, nutrition strategy and more. It’s here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainmarathon.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/thescene.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/thescene.jpg) The Scene DVD - Chuck Fryberger’s latest climbing flick from the hottest climbing destinations around the world. Hard trad, 9b sport from Sharma, hardcore bouldering with Nalle Hukkataival and even more hardcore climbing comp action. New psyche for your own training! I wrote a full review here (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2011/09/review-scene-dvd.html) and it’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thescene.html)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/northernbeats.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/northernbeats.html) Northern Beats DVD - A new school film by Bernd Zangerl combining artistically shot bouldering on a tour around Norway with good music. Full review on the way, meanwhile, it’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/northernbeats.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-117947411682257739?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MwNeB6tcF0c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lukasz' workshop
10 October 2011, 5:47 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bG9kExWzols/TpMtif9GOoI/AAAAAAAACpw/VGjdYc7zJ2I/s640/Richard+Enticknap+Climbing-9+copy.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bG9kExWzols/TpMtif9GOoI/AAAAAAAACpw/VGjdYc7zJ2I/s1600/Richard+Enticknap+Climbing-9+copy.jpg)
’King of Drunks' V6, Llanberis Pass, Wales. Photo: Richard Enticknap (http://www.fantasmastudio.co.uk/)
I’m just home for a couple of weeks after a manic few weeks travelling about working. The bulk of my work has been two fantastic film shoots with Triple Echo Productions. I’ve played the part of a daring 1870’s Hebridean farmer/new router and climbed 4 pitch new sport routes on a huge new crag in the middle of the Peak District! Yes it was an interesting time! More on those when I have some pics to show you through from Triple Echo. Between those shoots, I spent a great weekend with Lukasz Warzecha (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/) and his students on his climbing photography workshop which proved to be a hit. I was really amazed by the standard of Lukasz’ tuition and had a great time jumping onto whatever routes we could find. On the first evening we headed up to some nice boulders above the Llanberis pass. I did about 30 laps on a V6 called ‘King of Drunks’ while flash guns went off from various angles on the hillside. The following morning I did a somewhat bleary eyed ascent of King Wad E4 6a in the pass but felt a bit guilty for declining Lukasz request to jump off the top after my ascent! I reckon if you want to get anywhere in climbing photography, you should get yourself a place on his next workshop.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXsrk4Wnx_Q/TpMtnM3ySFI/AAAAAAAACp4/LyRsJsoLSKU/s640/LukaszCourse_Diff_Sunday+7+copy.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xXsrk4Wnx_Q/TpMtnM3ySFI/AAAAAAAACp4/LyRsJsoLSKU/s1600/LukaszCourse_Diff_Sunday+7+copy.jpg)
King Wad E4 6a, Scimitar Ridge. Photo: Paul Diffley (http://hotaches.blogspot.com/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-461291260326760703?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Karina's machine mode (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/2yBltLi-NhQ/karinas-machine-mode.html)
13 October 2011, 12:24 am
We finished our new route in the Peak District a day early, so I had time after all to make it to the Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival (http://www.edinburghmountainff.com/). That was the 9th EMFF and I was glad I didn’t miss it as it always provides a fresh dose of inspiration and an atmosphere.
As a speaker or climber featured in a good few films, I’ve been to a lot of mountain festivals but I’d have to say Edinburgh is my favourite. A lot of that is down to Stevie Christie managing to strike the right note with the vibe, films, speakers etc. Well done again Stevie.
On the Saturday evening session we listened to Karina Hollekim speak about the ups and downs of her career as a BASE jumper. If you haven’t heard of her, Karina is most famous for the film 20 seconds of joy in which we see her great enjoyment of jumping and then crushing disablement when her parachute didn’t open properly and her legs were broken so badly she was told she would never walk again. One gruelling recovery later, she can walk, and ski. Her talk was very much focused on the self-belief required to do what she did before (jump off cliffs) and the whole other level of self-belief required to get through her recovery.
The message that self belief is the key ingredient to break personal barriers is one that we see a lot from speakers with a motivational story. Sometimes I’ve seen it presented that self belief is all that is necessary. But it’s fair to say that most would place it more as a crucial ingredient, but just one of quite a few more. That is certainly my feeling.
One statement in Karina’s talk stood out a mile for me. She was describing the moment sitting crouched in the dark at the foot of a signal tower waiting for the all clear to climb to do her very first BASE jump. Full of fear, she felt she couldn’t make herself do it. But when the call finally came through on the radio, she “got up, like a machine and started climbing up the ladder”.
Machine mode neatly describes the state of mind needed to make the final decision to do almost anything bold and committing. Thinking as a human fades away, replaced by processing as a machine. I’m here, I’m ready, I want to do this, and I’m doing it now. The time for questions is passed, already processed. All that is left is to turn the decision into action. Simple huh? But this is the hardest thing for people do actually do. There is a block right at the point machine mode is needed. The fearful, doubting human thoughts refuse to be switched off, and nothing happens. Rationalisation follows, and the moment is gone.
I managed to ask Karina about this after her talk. Could anyone master this machine mode? I’ve often asked myself this. For some it seems to come naturally. For others it’s out of reach even if they are actually really trying. Karina’s answer was surprisingly direct. She thought you could either do it or you couldn’t. Reassuring I suppose, as if you can’t do it, at least you know it’s because it’s a genuinely hard thing to do.
I must say, I’m not sure whether I totally agree. I certainly agree that most people will never actually manage to master this mental skill. But that it’s beyond possibility I don’t know. I guess I’m naturally resistant to the idea of untrainable performance variables. My personal view is that there is more to it.
I think a lot of it has to do with how much you actually want to do the thing. Even the most die hard egos crumble doing the most dangerous form of climbing - free soloing. People can do a handful of bold things for ego, attention or status. But it never lasts. To do bold things day in, day out, you need to genuinely love doing the raw activity. If that raw motivation for the activity isn’t there underneath, that might be the real reason for failure. And if you were doing something else that you really did want to do, machine mode would appear. Also, I sometimes feel that even when good motivation is there, it gets clouded by other motives that ultimately get in the way.
Before concluding that you could never, do something like Karina has, I’d say at least try first of all to reconnect with the raw, basic things that make you want to do that thing, and see what happens. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8757544097224674546?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/2yBltLi-NhQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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To those about to rock Scottish climbing - TCA Glasgow (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EbuwXg5fpKk/to-those-about-to-rock-scottish.html)
20 October 2011, 7:51 pm
The biggest and best bouldering wall in the UK, The Climbing Academy opens in Glasgow tomorrow. Brilliant news! Can’t wait to get in there...
The Climbing Academy Glasgow - The UK's Biggest Bouldering Wall (http://vimeo.com/30784648) from Jen Randall (http://vimeo.com/user2681752) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-917971708709711550?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EbuwXg5fpKk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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On lecture tour next week
23 October 2011, 5:52 pm
(http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Dave-with-the-full-rack-of-cams-ready-to-rig-belays-for-filming.jpg) (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Dave-with-the-full-rack-of-cams-ready-to-rig-belays-for-filming.jpg)
Racked up for rigging the Longhope Route - more of Lukasz’ pictures (http://blog.lwimages.co.uk/) of this route in my lectures next week. All of next week I’m travelling around doing talks each evening in a different part of the UK. Maybe I’ll see some of you?! Mostly I’ll be talking about the importance of taking on massive projects like the Long Hope route on Orkney. Big projects like that and a few other hard climbs I’ll show you involve a lot of doubt - you just don’t know if you’ve got enough to finally do them (unless they are too easy!). Dealing with that doubt is a big psychological challenge. My experience has been that there’s more than one successful mindset to adopt. I‘ll explain more at the talks. First up, I’m going round Scotland, speaking at various Tiso stores on a Mountain Equipment tour. Details and tickets are here (http://www.tiso.com/news/lectures/dave-macleod-living-in-longhope/), but the dates are: Monday 24th Inverness Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm Tuesday 25th Aberdeen Tiso 7.30pm Wednesday 26th Perth Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm Thursday 27th Glasgow Tiso GOE 7.30pm Friday 28th Edinburgh Tiso Outdoor experience 7.30pm On Saturday I’m speaking twice at the SAFOS seminar on decision making in avalanche terrain at EICA Ratho. First up I’m speaking about my approaches and ideas to managing risk in my trad climbing. I’ll discuss some of the times I’ve nearly killed myself climbing, and what I did wrong, and some of the times I climbed really dangerous routes safely, like The Indian Face. Details of this here (http://www.sais.gov.uk/conference.asp) - There are some great speakers lined up on risk and decision making. On Sunday I’m at Dart Rock (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=473926) near Exeter doing coaching clinics (Sunday and Monday) and on Sunday evening I’m speaking there. See you out there!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4509473242232182700?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Handa - More dangling above drops for the BBC (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/5IxB-oWzLEM/handa-more-dangling-above-drops-for-bbc.html)
24 October 2011, 2:51 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yYd_t9FHRkI/TqV5PFJKX8I/AAAAAAAACqk/tyLNzxf-rCc/s640/handamed-49.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-yYd_t9FHRkI/TqV5PFJKX8I/AAAAAAAACqk/tyLNzxf-rCc/s1600/handamed-49.jpg)
The Great Stack of Handa. Photo: Triple Echo Productions
Last month I was working on two great film shoots with the Triple Echo (http://www.tripleecho.co.uk/Triple_Echo_Productions/News/News.html) team for the BBC at either ends of the UK. First off it was up north to the Stack of Handa to play the part of Donald McDonald, a Lewis farmer from the 1870s. The reason we ended up here was down to two accounts in the SMC journal by WH Murray and Tom Patey. Handa is a small island off the far north west coast of Scotland near Scourie. It’s a fairly remote and barren place, abandoned since the potato famine in 1848. Probably it’s best natural feature is the great stack of Handa, a 300 foot chunky sea stack of red sandstone sat between two headlands with cavernous vertical cliffs between. (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MJzUAfFcBF4/TqV5Pr6m2qI/AAAAAAAACqc/cFzG_5aXLqI/s640/handamed-42.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MJzUAfFcBF4/TqV5Pr6m2qI/AAAAAAAACqc/cFzG_5aXLqI/s1600/handamed-42.jpg)
Myself, Donald King and Dave Cuthbertson going climbing on Handa. Photo: Triple Echo Productions
Three rather intrepid men from Lewis rode across the Minch in 1870 and made the first crossing onto the stack by rather inventive means. They lugged 600 feet of fishing rope across the island and walked it out across the headlands , pulling it tight until the rope (just) rested over the summit of the stack. McDonald then rather boldly hand-over-handed across the sagging rope without any backup to get onto the stack. The climb up the far side of the rope stack sounded like a fight for his life, the rope basically running almost vertically at that point. With encouragement from his partners, he made it and brought the others over the re-belayed rope in a breeches buoy. (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X5HvQvuWmoI/TqV5O9vTA5I/AAAAAAAACqY/qiPHFVG1Xzc/s640/handamed-52.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X5HvQvuWmoI/TqV5O9vTA5I/AAAAAAAACqY/qiPHFVG1Xzc/s1600/handamed-52.jpg)
Crossing the fishing rope to the stack. Photo: Triple Echo Productions
It’s hard to see any other reason for them taking the considerable trouble and risk to make this expedition for anything other than the sheer challenge of it. There are plenty of birdy cliffs for harvesting that are a lot more accessible nearby. Therefore, according to Murray writing in the journal, it may be the first recorded instance of an ascent like this in the country. (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ze2uuCq-gGo/TqV5Oi8LPTI/AAAAAAAACqM/V3pU7iUXvkI/s640/handamed-68.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ze2uuCq-gGo/TqV5Oi8LPTI/AAAAAAAACqM/V3pU7iUXvkI/s1600/handamed-68.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dWR-E0R1UOE/TqV5NkPlNqI/AAAAAAAACqA/Arc0UZ_1sRw/s640/handamed-61.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dWR-E0R1UOE/TqV5NkPlNqI/AAAAAAAACqA/Arc0UZ_1sRw/s1600/handamed-61.jpg)
Making progress along the rope got a lot harder as you approached the stack. The rope was basically running vertically. Photo: Triple Echo Productions
Tom Patey tried to repeat the same method in 1967 with modern ropes and jumars, but there was so much sag on the rope that Patey found it a desperate challenge and wrote of his incredulity that the Lewismen pulled it off, and without protection. A piece of stomach churning boldness! He invited Murray to research the story further, which he did. Murray tracked down McDonald’s son in Dunoon and got the more detailed story. It sounds like the Lewismen of the era were pretty handy and competitive climbers! (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oRX7ksoMbTw/TqV5Nt_H8YI/AAAAAAAACqE/f3roEEPufcM/s640/handamed-64.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oRX7ksoMbTw/TqV5Nt_H8YI/AAAAAAAACqE/f3roEEPufcM/s1600/handamed-64.jpg)
Cubby following in the breeches buoy. I.e. an oversized nappy! Photo: Triple Echo Productions
Anyway, the full story will be in the film which is on BBC2 Scotland (iPlayer etc) towards the end of November. I’ll let you know the time when it’s published. My comrades in the re-creation were Cubby and Donald King and we had a blast dangling about on fishing ropes above the big drop into the sea. Or should that be we got blasted by the full wrath of the Atlantic squalls every ten minutes for the best part of a week. I started off the week thinking that my costume of a tweed suit, bunnet and old leather boots was quite good outdoor attire. But by the end I must say I couldn’t wait to see the back of soggy tweed and soaking boots and get back into modern kit and ropes that weight less than 40kg. The week was for me an old lesson re-learned. The generations gone by had less to work with, but had no less boldness, courage, or ingenuity. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-576452783290049036?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/5IxB-oWzLEM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Johnny Dawes book in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wqekzaGYnxM/johnny-dawes-book-in-shop.html)
24 October 2011, 2:58 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/fullofmyselfjohnnydawes.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/fullofmyself.html)
Johnny Dawes long awaited autobiography ‘Full of myself’ has finally arrived and I’ve just put it up on our shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/fullofmyself.html). The stock just arrived this morning and after a quick flick through it looks like a superb book with a lot more really interesting pictures than I was expecting. I’ll write a full review soon.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5996990521167338579?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wqekzaGYnxM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New route in Peak Cavern (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eaR1COiUWFA/new-route-in-peak-cavern.html)
3 November 2011, 8:01 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-frHBljObL7U/TrLwdDE31eI/AAAAAAAACrc/4Veygoxmedo/s640/peakcavernmacleod+6.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-frHBljObL7U/TrLwdDE31eI/AAAAAAAACrc/4Veygoxmedo/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+6.jpg)
Pitch 1 (wet 7c+) of Ring of Fire during the first ascent in Peak Cavern. All pics Triple Echo Productions.
The other shoot I just finished with Triple Echo for the BBC was even weirder than the Handa adventure! The director Richard Else managed to get special permission to climb in the show cave Peak Cavern near Castleton right in the middle of the Peak District. The idea was for myself and Alan Cassidy to see if we could find a route out of it! Peak Cavern, otherwise known as 'The Devil's Arse' is one of the biggest and most impressive limestone crags in the Peak. In a region where every other inch of rock has a route on it, it’s pretty amazing that there are no free routes on this crag at all. It comes down to access. The crag has been banned for climbing forever as it’s a tourist attraction on private land - paying public walking around below climbs etc. Of course it’s a massive shame since I’m certain a way round it could be found with the help of the BMC. The cave is only open to the public until 5pm and then it’s locked. Climber’s lock-in? Sadly I don’t think a change is likely any time soon. We appealed as best we could. (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49h_xX2GDRQ/TrLwYVl7ddI/AAAAAAAACq8/MvBSMc0e7H8/s640/peakcavernmacleod+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49h_xX2GDRQ/TrLwYVl7ddI/AAAAAAAACq8/MvBSMc0e7H8/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+1.jpg)
Anyway, we enjoyed our special permission while we had it, in the name of making BBC television. But first we spent two days a bit further north climbing an even sillier cave. The team wanted to see if we could climb our way out of a proper Yorkshire Pot Hole - Jingling Pot. A 60m tubular soaking wet pitch black slimy hole in the ground. Alan and myself didn’t have the faintest idea how to tackle it. I started off climbing in winter boots and gloves which was a mistake and I quickly switched to rockboots even through the water was running down it, over the green slime. I thought back to a day last year climbing Pleasure Done (E3) in Pembroke with Tim Emmett in the rain. That was surprisingly amenable and the limestone had a weird friction even though it was soaking. Jingling might be just like that, but with a headtorch on?! It turned out to be a wee bit harder than that, but we had a great time and emerged squinting in the daylight after one of our stranger days out climbing. After that we headed to the main event at Peak Cavern. Where Jingling Pot felt about E3 in the wet, Peak Cavern looked about 9c! The cave went in for over 100 metres. It also looked like any route there would take a lot of cleaning since the cave roof had hundreds of years worth of soot from the troglodytes who used to live there. With 4 days to do a route, we opted for a nice looking line going up a 45 degree wall then crossing the full length of the side wall and some roofs to gain a crack system in the headwall. It looked like it would go in about 4 pitches!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-3fDYtMbFQ/TrLwY_3on9I/AAAAAAAACrI/Wf_FMVFpKSc/s640/peakcavernmacleod+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-3fDYtMbFQ/TrLwY_3on9I/AAAAAAAACrI/Wf_FMVFpKSc/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+3.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ihg8UHBJ92o/TrLwbNtu5RI/AAAAAAAACrQ/bWTQODVexYQ/s640/peakcavernmacleod+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ihg8UHBJ92o/TrLwbNtu5RI/AAAAAAAACrQ/bWTQODVexYQ/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+4.jpg) Back on dry rock on the superb pitch 3 (7b+)
After a hardcore couple of days with the hilti and wire brush, It looked amazing: 7c+, 7a, 7b+, 7b. Only one problem, the first pitch would be 7c+ if it was dry. But it was completely soaking and all the holds were full of slimy wet mud - proper caving style! At least Keith’s floodlights made it feel slightly more like a crag than a hole in the ground. I had a couple of tries, sliding about all over the place. It was actually better not to use chalk for most of the first pitch, it only made your hands feel slimier.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-39dg-PkGP8c/TrLwc5uizBI/AAAAAAAACrY/KeNErGXaxoU/s640/peakcavernmacleod+5.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-39dg-PkGP8c/TrLwc5uizBI/AAAAAAAACrY/KeNErGXaxoU/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+5.jpg) Alan cruising pitch 2 (7a)
Next morning I set off again. I could see that slipping off could happen on any move, so why worry about any of them? I just kept creeping across the traverse, unexpectedly scrapping my way through to the stance, and we could enjoy the remaining spectacular pitches through the roofs and headwall. What shall we call it? Has to be 'Ring of Fire'! My first new routes in Yorkshire and the Peak -what a weird week!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U3ie2NtNC0c/TrLwX-9zriI/AAAAAAAACq4/tKE2UlIzJCE/s640/peakcavernmacleod+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U3ie2NtNC0c/TrLwX-9zriI/AAAAAAAACq4/tKE2UlIzJCE/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+2.jpg)
Alan enjoying the fantastic headwall on pitch 4 (7b). The programme will be coming to a TV screen near you sometime next year. I'll let you know when it's scheduled. Dave MacLeod
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Perfect day in Torridon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Gtn8-9CLNBk/perfect-day-in-torridon.html)
8 November 2011, 11:04 pm
After coming home from my lecture tour I’ve had a familiar feeling of being a little burnt out. This happens to me every year really, I cram as much work as I can into the west highland monsoon season - lectures, writing, coaching, events, film work etc. By the end of it, I’m always rather impatient for the calmness of just going to an empty highland glen and climbing some nice rock on my own.
I’m not naturally cut out for being on stage every night, and much as enjoy sharing the stories and meeting great people, I need some balance after many weeks of it. So after a week of sorting out so many loose ends at home, the autumn monsoon finally broke to sunny gold coloured mountains, and I got to enjoy two great bouldering sessions. I can’t tell you how much of a lift it is to spend time on real rock in a nice place after so much time indoors.
First off I found some killer new beta on a tough project in Glen Nevis. One that will take a while, even with a clever trick of the foot on the crux. Today, the north west seemed to be the place to be and I scooted up for an afternoon on the simply superb boulders in Glen Torridon. I noticed that visiting Sheffield bouldering specialist Dan Varian, one of the strongest men in our isles at present, had added a few hard problems here in the spring that sounded great.
I went up to check out a lovely arete called Stokes Croft, given about 8A. I enjoyed it a lot. Perfect holds, perfect conditions. The only thing not in perfect condition was me, still feeling decidedly sluggish from one of those nagging colds that seems to keep coming back. But as soon as I arrived at the problem, the sniffles and sighs melted away and I had the moves worked out in twenty minutes and then climbed it first redpoint. It’s probably more like 7C+ but it was still a lovely change to just go and repeat something that was all cleaned up and ready. I’ve spent a lot of time cleaning dirty rock this year!
Wee clip of this above. These last two sessions have fully redoubled keenness for the bouldering season, and for training training TRAINING!!! Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Longhope DVD is not far away (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/i2-lYmlFY0c/longhope-dvd-is-not-far-away.html)
9 November 2011, 12:18 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0bb_T8FmS_A/TrnGjBNgFhI/AAAAAAAACr8/zuKpklQhJFk/s640/longhope+posterblog.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0bb_T8FmS_A/TrnGjBNgFhI/AAAAAAAACr8/zuKpklQhJFk/s1600/longhope+posterblog.jpg)
We’ve just finished arranging the DVD artwork for the Long Hope film which may be finished by the time you read this and off to the DVD manufacturers. Paul Diffley has been doing sterling work editing it and must have earned a beer or three at Kendal after the premiere. Speaking of the premiere at Kendal - it’s already sold out! So if you want to be there, your only chance now is to enter the Mountain Equipment competition to win tickets for it. All you have to do is leave a comment here. (http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150388584542458.379721.156390237457&type=3) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mJP7yZIsG6U/TrnFc8CBJ3I/AAAAAAAACr0/0Hs99a0lJ3s/s400/Screen+Shot+2011-11-09+at+00.11.45.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mJP7yZIsG6U/TrnFc8CBJ3I/AAAAAAAACr0/0Hs99a0lJ3s/s1600/Screen+Shot+2011-11-09+at+00.11.45.png)
For those of you who don’t get tickets, the DVD will be out when it comes back from the manufacturers and we’ll put it up for pre-order in the shop soon so watch this space. The film is looking really great, although I would say that. I reckon it almost makes you want to go and climb a fulmar infested loose big wall sea cliff in the middle of nowhere. Extras on the DVD include the film of my ascent of The Indian Face (E9), Mucklehouse Wall (E5 5c, 5c, 6a) on Hoy and of course our ascent of the Old Man of Hoy. Other things coming up - The Stac of Handa re-enactment I shot the other week with the BBC has a provisional slot on BBC2 Scotland/iPlayer as an Adventure Show special on Nov 22nd at 19.00. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7633589895127849942?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/i2-lYmlFY0c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Tip Juice in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/v6tVPY4qTOY/tip-juice-in-shop.html)
11 November 2011, 11:40 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pb0bhLjY4rs/Tr2wGDiOocI/AAAAAAAACsk/Zexiw9TKm-c/s1600/TipJuice1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pb0bhLjY4rs/Tr2wGDiOocI/AAAAAAAACsk/Zexiw9TKm-c/s1600/TipJuice1.jpg)I’ve just added the new Tip Juice balm (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tipjuice.html) to the webshop. Most keen climbers these days doing a lot of sport climbing or bouldering are using a skin balm to help speed the recovery of fingertip skin for the next session. In the damp climate of western Scotland I don’t find I need to use it every session to keep my finger creases from cracking. But on a trip to somewhere with a dry climate such as sport climbing in Spain I’ll use it every day. It goes without saying that if you have a split tip or a cut from a sharp hold on your fingers you’ll need to use a balm like this daily to help it heal in the quickest possible time and prevent it going to a deep crack that will bother you for ages. Tip Juice is a new balm developed by an Aberdeen team of boulderers. They took a long time to perfect it and I think they’ve done a nice job. You can find it in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tipjuice.html) together with the ingredients list. Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Long Hope DVD available for pre-order
11 November 2011, 11:51 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5TEbNklvOP0/Tr2v6OSA4II/AAAAAAAACsY/uZnr3noQtjk/s200/LonghopeDVDcovermed.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) The Long Hope DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) is now up in the shop for pre-order.
The master disc is off to the DVD manufacturers and DVD stock usually takes a couple of weeks or so to be manufactured. If you did manage to get tickets to the premiere in Kendal before it sold out, we are hoping to have a handful of advance copies there but if you don’t make it to that, pre-ordering it now will mean you’ll get it the fastest way possible. We’ll dispatch orders for it as soon as we get hold of the stock. A lot of folk ask for their DVD signed, which is no problem of course! Just ask in the ‘special instructions’ field of the checkout form. The running time of the film is 60 minutes and there are lots of extra films on the DVD: My ascent of Indian Face, Mucklehouse Wall on Hoy and naturally, The Old Man of Hoy. It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-998182930089397458?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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BAFTA for The Great Climb (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/e4vIb2JGtks/bafta-for-great-climb.html)
14 November 2011, 9:18 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/GREAT-CLIMB-DVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/greatclimb.html) The Great Climb programme just won a Scottish BAFTA for live event coverage (http://www.bafta.org/scotland/awards/british-academy-scotland-awards-2011-nominations-announced,2148,BA.html#jump6) last night. I’m well chuffed that the effort that went into the programme from a lot of people was obviously appreciated and it’s nice to see it have recognition. It was a fine effort from Triple Echo Productions to attempt another live climbing broadcast, and pull it off after the frustrations of previous attempts. Folk were asking on my lecture tour last week if there is still anywhere you can get hold of a copy of the programme. The DVD is right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/greatclimb.html) I’ve also been asked loads if there are any more televised climbing programmes in the pipeline. I mentioned the other week about the Stac of Handa re-enactment that is showing on Nov 22nd (7pm BBC2 Scotland, iPlayer). There is a wee trailer up on the BBC site for this here. (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00lmvzt) Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Long Hope - Kendal people’s choice (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/jZ5L2gV9Ze4/long-hope-kendal-peoples-choice.html)
22 November 2011, 10:47 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rxXoCoT1M1g/TswmKcAoU0I/AAAAAAAACss/kE7LkJMJAvQ/s1600/long+hope.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rxXoCoT1M1g/TswmKcAoU0I/AAAAAAAACss/kE7LkJMJAvQ/s1600/long+hope.jpg)
Andy Turner, myself, Paul Diffley, Ed Drummond and Oilver Hill at the Long Hope premiere, KMF. Photo: Henryiddon.com
It was a nice atmosphere at the premiere of the film about the Longhope Route in Kendal on Friday night. Ed Drummond was on good form to say a few words after the film and it was cool to have 5 of the 6 people who have climbed that route in our various different styles in one place. Thanks to folks who voted for it and gave it the people’s choice award of the Kendal festival. DVD’s are still being made but will be with us soon. Thanks to everyone who has pre-ordered (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) so far.
It’s a strange experience presenting a film of a climb like this. For the audience, it’s the first time they’ve been able to see the story really get a feel for this climb. For me, it’s really the end of the process. I was sitting watching it with everyone else, feeling happy with my memories of that cliff. But they are just that - memories. The only meaning it has for me is contained within the film; that watching it will motivate others to have good adventures of their own.
Since climbing the route in June, I’ve been doing some basic training, and doing a lot of work (as in bill paying work) to set myself up for next years adventures. I have the restlessness to find new things again! Some projects, like those around my home area of Glen Nevis will come down to training and dedication. There are also some fantastic onsight climbs I’d like to try this winter. After last winter’s time out with an impending new baby I’m looking forward to learning to use the ice axe again. I’ll need to start from a low base, which is always great fun to just enjoy repeating others routes for a little bit.
First though, I have one more week of work, coaching abroad, exploring some untouched limestone. I’ll post up some pictures...
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6332917341047277657?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/jZ5L2gV9Ze4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The need to pull hard (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/j3aUfSQr0fo/need-to-pull-hard.html)
3 December 2011, 3:56 pm
A week of coaching abroad last week marked the end of a crazy few months of various work projects. Last week was very strange, going climbing every day and having great days but only on easy routes. I was absolutely stir crazy on the way home to pull hard on some small holds again. The need to take things to extremes seems to be a deep set part of human nature, and not just ego driven need to stand out from a crowd. Climbing at a relaxed pace without battling my way up routes to the last just doesn’t work for me. Although I love all the other aspects of going climbing, they seem to work as part of a whole recipe - and climbing routes that are hard for me is a crucial ingredient. Our return to the UK was met by the inevitable rain and gales, so it was my board who took the brunt of my restlessness. I must have caught it off guard since I managed a personal best session on my hard problems and made some great progress on a couple of projects I couldn’t touch just a few weeks before. Endurance was sadly lacking however. What to do tomorrow??? Freeze my fingers bouldering or freeze my fingers mixed climbing? Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Long Hope DVD is here! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vxPlI8ekQ9w/long-hope-dvd-is-here.html)
3 December 2011, 4:06 pm
We now have our stock of the Long Hope DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) and many of our pre-orders will have them by now. They are in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) and as usual we are dispatching every day in the run up to Christmas. I’ve just been signing a large pile of them for folk and if you’d like a copy signed, just ask on the checkout page. Signed copies are only available from my shop. Thanks for all the messages from those of you who have seen it. It seems it’s become your favourite climbing film very quickly which is good to know that what was appealing to me as a climb and an adventure is also to lots of other folks. Here’s the trailer for the DVD:
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3259657542158265536?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vxPlI8ekQ9w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Meeting the Queen (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AC420-k6RZY/meeting-queen.html)
11 December 2011, 10:52 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jxQVO1qc81k/TuUpd_zpm7I/AAAAAAAACs4/FXmgFR9cUDk/s640/Dec2011_+4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jxQVO1qc81k/TuUpd_zpm7I/AAAAAAAACs4/FXmgFR9cUDk/s1600/Dec2011_+4.jpg)
On Fat Boy Slim VI, 6, Ben Nevis the other day
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8LZPSAZGQw/TuUpfSSaMqI/AAAAAAAACtE/BAWpZC4YcgM/s640/Dec2011_+5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l8LZPSAZGQw/TuUpfSSaMqI/AAAAAAAACtE/BAWpZC4YcgM/s1600/Dec2011_+5.jpg)
How do I winter climb again? After doing Anubis a couple of years ago I took a bit of a break from winter climbing. That route was a really nice piece of climbing and was very satisfying to climb. It was hard to find something good enough to follow it. I was also really missing bouldering and felt I hard to get some strength base together for climbing the Longhope. Last season I tried a couple of new routes that were maybe too hard, and then winter was over for me with imminent arrival of my daughter Freida. It’ll be interesting to see if I can find some good routes this season. I was worried that I would feel very out of touch with winter climbing. So I thought I better start with some basics at VI or VII. It certainly felt strange to be holding tools again and a circuit around my board tonight on them felt desperate. It’s always difficult finding the real stand out new routes in any discipline, but never more so than in winter climbing. I’m really into finding steeper lines but it’s a frustrating business when every climb on the mountain is in condition except yours sometimes. But I do know about two or three lines that might have the makings of great winter routes that I’d like to go at if they come into condition this year. I think a Birnam cave session or two could be in order first though!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kcUaBaV-nGI/TuUpfBfvCVI/AAAAAAAACtA/57iEtkHGbpc/s640/Dec2011_+7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kcUaBaV-nGI/TuUpfBfvCVI/AAAAAAAACtA/57iEtkHGbpc/s1600/Dec2011_+7.jpg)
Blink and you’ll miss it. MacLeod in a suit for the first time, for one night only. It must have been some occasion, you must be thinking, to see me in a suit of an evening. Indeed! I was asked to go to London to meet the Queen, along with many other adventurers from up and down the land and beyond. We gathered at Buckingham Palace, for a glass of champagne and a royal hand shake to mark the centenary of the Scott expedition. I met many accomplished climbers I knew, some I didn’t know and spotted various royals and folks I’d seen a lot on the telly. Messner gave me some good beta about future projects too. It was a nice evening, and the trip was a nice way to spend a couple of rest days after a monster session at the TCA in Glasgow.
Speaking of the TCA, it was my first visit and I was headless chickening as most folk apparently do on their first visit. It’s the best climbing wall I’ve ever been to, worldwide. I’m really chuffed to see climbing walls go to another level. I walked around all after noon repeating inwardly “I wish this was here when I started climbing”. I’m super looking forward to Christmas hols in Glasgow to get a proper feel for the place. It’s just too big to scratch the surface on your first visit. If you haven’t been yet, sort it out!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-liDdhancvUE/TuUuOKeKCoI/AAAAAAAACtU/qZAUrnMye9E/s640/tca-glas-banner-nov11.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-liDdhancvUE/TuUuOKeKCoI/AAAAAAAACtU/qZAUrnMye9E/s1600/tca-glas-banner-nov11.jpg)
As I write I have the satisfied feeling of every upper body muscle aching from a good solid session on my board - hard problems, mileage, circuits and tooling circuits and then my rehabs. With work trips finally over for the year it’s so nice just to get down to the business of uninterrupted training. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2367566509824285285?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AC420-k6RZY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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While the rain falls (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eT2aXHSFD8o/while-rain-falls.html)
13 December 2011, 11:48 pm
My house was still standing after Hurricane Bawbag and all is well as we settle into a long awaited full week at home and not on the road. Despite a million flattened trees in the glen around our house, everything except our TV signal (dodgy aerial down at the loch shore) survived. Our internet connection survived and that has been keeping us busy with Christmas orders from the webshop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html) (thanks for those!!). We are dispatching every day as always by first class post.
While the gales and sleet rage outside, I have been getting seriously into training. My finger joints are complaining about this mildly, but good sleep and food are keeping them keen for leaping between crimps on the board. Tonight I even managed a tweaked version of my model of Seven of Nine (http://youtu.be/Uv2VKd8wgQM), a good notch harder than the original, which I completed once shortly before I did the real thing back in April. From my bouldering apprenticeship in Dumbarton I’ve been left with reasonably good openhanded strength on small positive edges and I’m good at getting weight on my feet when the climbing surface is fairly undulating and angled. My ever growing weakness was flat panel 45 degree angles and big pinches.
I’ve kind of neglected the pinch strength aspect since few of my rock projects rely on this, something I’ve now come to regret. However, It’s never too late to get strong and I’m attacking it now with some fine pinch problems. I reckon I’m still at least 2 full grades weaker on pinches than edges as recent indoor sessions around Scotland have reminded me. Let’s see what we can do about that.
The training part is easy though - It’s like eating pudding, I could just keep going and going. The hard bit is maintaining the discipline to rest properly and do all the supportive stuff to keep the body going (rehab exercises, basic strength work, flexibility and eating well). With Frieda crawling about the house now tracking down anything dangerous she can get her little teeth into, it gets too tempting sometimes to take the opportunity to do some work while she sleeps. Resist! Rest up and train another day.
Following my session tonight I’ve just spent a couple of hours immersing myself in some fine training inspiration such as this:
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-323325820668121869?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/eT2aXHSFD8o)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Training on the job (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/3XY8HK9ECBU/training-on-job.html)
21 December 2011, 11:55 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a0x_AaXGLkU/TvG3wgf1nOI/AAAAAAAACtg/WxR7WoVHiZk/s640/roof2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a0x_AaXGLkU/TvG3wgf1nOI/AAAAAAAACtg/WxR7WoVHiZk/s1600/roof2.jpg)
How on earth? I did have a plan to do a few easy winter routes before trying a couple of harder new lines I have an eye on, but curiosity for the hard routes rapidly got the better of that. I just had three tries on a fantastic new line with a 6 metre horizontal roof. The first attempt was a bit of a poor show to be totally honest. Climbing with tools is definitely feeling a bit alien still, so I did a lot of craning my neck looking up at it and making various excuses. There’s nothing wrong with doing a bit of training on the job though, so I went back up with Kev (http://kevshieldsclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/12/impatient-patient.html) and fully attacked the roof. The rock is so smooth cut and featureless that it seems to be better to cut onto one tool on quite a few of the moves rather than even bother trying to get crampons to stick to overhead and distant smears. I pretty much gave up though as I just couldn’t find a way to do the move around the lip. The gap between the hooks seemed just massive and I couldn’t find anything to get my feet on at all. It’s hard to give up so easy though. That night I dreamed up a method involving throwing a foot overhead into a potential heel-toe and climbing feet first around the lip. When I went back up with Michael, it didn’t work. Not even close. Michael had a shot too and reckoned it’s harder climbing than the Birnam tooling routes - maybe M11+ climbing. Next time up I found a way to stein-pull my axe in a thin hook and do a massive and dynamic move to the first little nick around the lip. However, I didn’t have the strength to complete the route yesterday. I think a couple of weeks of circuits with tools while the mild weather is in could be just what the doctor ordered. Next time it will be really interesting to see if I can get past the lip and into the overhanging groove above. Hopefully I’ll have learnt a bit more about how to use my tools well again and be fully ready for an anaerobic battle! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6920645541375233013?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/3XY8HK9ECBU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Plastic power (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/8HLwYoKuVnM/plastic-power.html)
4 January 2012, 12:57 am
With Scotland being hammered by the usual January gales and rain, I’ve been directing my climbing attentions over Christmas to a sustained attack on the fantastic TCA bouldering centre (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/) in Glasgow. I climbed a mountain of fantastic problems and definitely feel stronger for it, especially on big moves. There’s a lot of climbing space there and there are no shortage of leaps and jumps between the holds (some performance related comments on this over on my other blog (http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/01/through-whole-move.html)). An uninterrupted spell of good quality training doesn’t get much better in climbing, apart of course from an opportunity to use the training on a piece of real rock. But with wall to wall rain and more gales lined up for the next few weeks, it’s time for more of the same. It’s a great chance for me to really attack some long term weaknesses that I seldom get a chance to really attack when I’m doing my usual routine of very little training, just going climbing all the time. My goals have been to work hard on my pinch strength among various aspects of my strength and flexibility. I’ve had a good couple of weeks of good training and another three of serious work should time nicely with the first crisp days of February (fingers crossed) for getting back outside onto rock projects.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-454616172409319142?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/8HLwYoKuVnM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing coaching sessions at Fort William Mountain Festival (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/NPnU_-_0pZ4/climbing-coaching-sessions-at-fort.html)
6 January 2012, 4:55 pm
(http://www.jamesthacker.co.uk/reports/uploaded_images/FWMF-logo-774890.jpg) (http://www.jamesthacker.co.uk/reports/uploaded_images/FWMF-logo-774890.jpg) On Friday 17th of Feb I’m running some daytime climbing technique masterclasses at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven as part of the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/programme/friday-17th-february/). The sessions will be 2 hours long and there will be 6 spaces on each session. I’ll give you a fairly intense couple of hours of climbing technique advice, coaching and inspiration! To take part you have to be a climber and be used to a climbing wall, but it doesn’t matter what level you are at. You’ll learn a lot whether you are climbing at a fairly basic level or a pretty serious climber. The sessions will take place at 10am-12pm, 12.30pm-2.30pm and 3pm- 5pm. It costs £35 per climber (pay on the day) as well as your normal climbing wall entry fee at the Ice Factor. I get a lot of requests to give coaching and these classes will fill up pretty fast so give Claire a ring on 07813 060376 to book your place quick! That evening at the festival is the mountaineering evening (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/programme/friday-17th-february/) with showings of the brilliant film ‘Vertical Sailing’ about big wall exploring in Greenland and also the Longhope film about my own mini-big wall climb on Orkney.
Over on my events page (http://www.davemacleod.com/events.html) you'll see I'm also giving a lecture at Rheged in the Lakes on Jan 28th and at the Royal Geographical Society in London on Feb 8th (more about that in a minute). Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-9186120202033234057?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/NPnU_-_0pZ4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Long Hope night at RGS in London Feb 8th (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/myzipLQehqM/long-hope-night-at-rgs-in-london-feb.html)
6 January 2012, 7:39 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M9-0jrbSSnI/TwdMj5NeqOI/AAAAAAAACvA/Ccan3hJQzNo/s640/longhope+post+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M9-0jrbSSnI/TwdMj5NeqOI/AAAAAAAACvA/Ccan3hJQzNo/s1600/longhope+post+1.jpg)
Paul Diffley captures the action from an airy filming position on the Longhope route. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
On February 8th, myself, Andy Turner and filmmaker Paul Diffley will be speaking at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Longhope route. Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex have helped us arrange an evening of entertainment at the RGS to share with you what was pretty memorable adventure for us, both in terms of the climbers involved in attempting to climb this cliff over 40 years, and in documenting it on film. Myself and Andy will be speaking about our experiences in preparing and attempting the first free ascent of the original Longhope Route as well as some of the history behind climbing on the cliff, and then we’ll present The Long Hope film made by Paul Diffley. In particular I’ll talk about some of the psychology behind taking on a three-year sporting ambition to open a new route at world class difficulty like this, how I’ve learned to be comfortable with the dangers involved, and some of the hurdles that you just couldn’t plan for along the way. Andy will be speaking about how his winter mountaineering adventures in Scotland, the Alps and Norway were about as good preparation as you could get for this type of adventure, yet still not enough to avoid some knee trembling moments on a 1400 foot loose, bird infested sea-cliff. We’ll have a bar and plenty of time to meet up and talk about adventures on cliffs during the evening or ask questions. We’ll also have some signed copies of the Long Hope DVD and various other films and books we’ve made. Doors open at 6pm to start 7pm. It should be a great night! Tickets and full details are available in my shop right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rgslonghopenight.html) It’s going to be a busy show so it would be a very good plan to get your ticket early.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkzKkFKqhcY/TwdMlH9mlZI/AAAAAAAACvI/CwaDWU_9xoM/s640/longhope+post+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qkzKkFKqhcY/TwdMlH9mlZI/AAAAAAAACvI/CwaDWU_9xoM/s1600/longhope+post+2.jpg)
Andy Turner, Dave MacLeod and the Longhope route, St John’s Head, Orkney. One of the three looks hard and intimidating. Photo: Lukasz Warzecha (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2088982869130990286?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/myzipLQehqM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Aberdeen city break (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AeTxK4xZeqg/aberdeen-city-break.html)
11 January 2012, 1:46 pm
I can’t believe 2 months had passed without climbing outdoors on rock in Scotland. I can’t remember the weather being so unhelpful during the winter for several years. Lochaber has just been hammered with rain and gales and it seems my options for getting on projects have been basically nil.
No matter, all the training on plastic has been worth it. But severe withdrawal symptoms from climbing a real piece of rock set in and so I took a gamble and drove over to the Aberdeen sea cliffs in the hope of finding something to climb.
It worked! I dropped Claire and Frieda in Aberdeen and somewhat bleary eyed from the early start and long drive, stumbled into Cammachmore Bay for a look at Devistator 8A. After a couple of tries this went down so I nipped over the hill and just beat the rising tide into Clashfarqhuar Bay and did Delirium 8A.
Next day I missed my tide window for Clashfarqhuar and after a fair bit of faffing about trying to remember where Craigmaroinn was I found it and went for a look at Twilight Princess 8A. It’s a link between the start of Kayla into the finish of Pit Left Hand. But as I was improvising my climbing plans and didn’t have the description to hand I assumed it must traverse all the way into the furthest left straight up problem since that looked like the obvious hardest link to be done. I even went strict and dropped down into the starting holds of this to make sure. But on returning home I found that I’d finished up the wrong problem (The Buzz 7b). Not much difference, maybe a touch harder but yet another variation in the wee cave.
It was a nice reminder the nothing ventured nothing gained rule and that even Scotland in January occasionally throws a psyched climber a lifeline. Little video of these above, in the solitary climber style of camera propped on a rock... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8655512387987713776?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AeTxK4xZeqg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Dry rock - new routes! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/V6pTVxSp3qs/dry-rock-new-routes.html)
18 January 2012, 12:29 am
Catch 22 is a somewhat elusive boulder problem in a couple of ways. Cubby kept telling me about this eliminate but great little problem up at Sky Pilot in Glen Nevis. With some knowledge of the wall I asked him to describe it so I could try and do it. He did, but I got it wrong and climbed the problem in this video (http://youtu.be/FVZSsP7SmeY) thinking this was it (with a sit start added by me, which I shall now call Catch 21!).
Finally Cubby came up to photograph me trying another of his old projects which eventually came to be Seven of Nine 8B+ and showed me Catch 22. He gave it 7C in the classic old school style (stiff at that grade). It revolves around holding a wild swing when you jump off 2 opposing edges to a glassy sloper. Sort of reminiscent of ‘Slap Happy’ at Dumbarton Rock but a lot harder. A sit start was obviously possible but neither of us had done the moves.
While working hard on Seven of Nine (http://youtu.be/Uv2VKd8wgQM) this spring, repeating Catch 22 became part of my warm up rountine every session. And when I became strong and light enough for Seven of Nine, I could do Catch 22 first try, every time. I worked out two hard moves to get into it from the sitter, but the link was going to be hard as you have to have the crucial edges just right to stay tight enough to catch and hold the sloper. I tried it in September after a summer of trad and couldn’t touch it. But after some bouldering recently it would be very interesting to see if that made any difference? It did! It still took a solid hour on it to refine the movement and timing, reminding myself to squeeze apart on the presses while moving my right foot up, and pulling with that foot until the last as I went for the sloper. On the last try of the day before I had to leave for tea at a friend's, it went. Feels like Font 8A+ to me, but perhaps for hardcore ’45’ abusers it might be ok. Eliminate, but great movement. Some performance related observations on this ascent over on my coaching blog.
Next day I decided to go back up to the Skeleton boulder project with Michael. It was COLD as the photo below shows but we still had a nice time. I am still unable to do the crux move of the Skeleton roof line that was in Committed 2 (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/committedbundle.html). But at least I saw some beta that's worth working on some more to see if I can make it work. That roof is definitely the hardest boulder I've ever tried. A new level is always good to focus the motivation.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1hmvvcGwuEE/TxYRfOtYrFI/AAAAAAAACvY/sb-ZYLuE5Ow/s640/michael.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1hmvvcGwuEE/TxYRfOtYrFI/AAAAAAAACvY/sb-ZYLuE5Ow/s1600/michael.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5235375782220298492?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/V6pTVxSp3qs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lectures in February (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/kkLyi5QKHNQ/lectures-in-february.html)
24 January 2012, 11:57 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eH1Ui7gHSjY/Tx6ZAoAwMwI/AAAAAAAACwA/AvcCHzmiqGk/s1600/RGS-A5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eH1Ui7gHSjY/Tx6ZAoAwMwI/AAAAAAAACwA/AvcCHzmiqGk/s1600/RGS-A5.jpg)
The last of my lectures for a while are happening in February - see you at some of these hopefully: This Saturday (Jan 28th) I’m speaking at Rheged in the Lakes. Details and tickets here (http://www.rheged.com/dave-macleod-living-longhope). On February 3rd I’ll be in the audience for a change while Claire gives the lecture! She is speaking at Roy Bridge Memorial Hall, 7.30pm about her mountain film making adventures and jumping out of planes. Tickets on the door - £4 and you’ll also get some food and a cup of tea! On February 8th I’m speaking along with Andy Turner and Paul Diffley at the Royal Geographical Society in London about the Long Hope. After the lecture we’ll show the film too and there will be an opportunity to gather for a good chat at the bar during the evening. Details and tickets here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rgslonghopenight.html) On February 24th I’m speaking in Hoy Kirk, Hoy, Orkney about the Long Hope and showing the film. Looking forward to being back on the island! It’ll be a good chance for me to explain to everyone I saw out and about around Orkney what all the fuss was about that kept me returning to St John’s head trip after trip. Start time 6.30pm. After that I’m away on a long climbing trip. See you there! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2542166131224020052?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/kkLyi5QKHNQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Something Different (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/YU5Kuer7wFI/something-different.html)
3 February 2012, 12:32 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5vsIpgzeuOU/TynF4YZ3yVI/AAAAAAAACwU/QLat_zvokSM/s640/shionnachroof+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5vsIpgzeuOU/TynF4YZ3yVI/AAAAAAAACwU/QLat_zvokSM/s1600/shionnachroof+1.jpg)
Getting pumped and scared at the lip of the roof on Castle in the Sky, Druim Shionnach. Photos: Andy Turner. A few weeks ago I mentioned I’d tried a huge roof in winter. It was up on Druim Shionnach on the Skye Road, about half an hour from my house. Things didn’t go very well with that. I tried it maybe three times and on my last try ripped out a tiny chockstone in the thin crack in the roof that was crucial for the crux lunge in the middle of the roof. After that it was a parallel crack and neither myself, Donald or Michael could work out how this section could go. So for now at least (I never say never), I was a bit stumped. But at the end of the day I had a brief foray on the roof just to it’s left. About 5 metres straight across the smooth horizontal roof with no crack system to follow. I tried to aid across it just to see if there could be any hooks at all. It looked like an outside chance of being possible but at a silly grade. I had another session to aid around the lip and see if it might be possible. Just aiding was scary enough. I was forced to aid mostly on my axes on tiny hooks as there was very little gear in the roof or around the lip. In the end all the protection after the first metre in the roof was one poor downpointing blade and one pecker on the headwall. I was pretty sure a fall would strip them both and would mean a long fall and big smash into the lower wall. But at least I found some hooks and could see that it might go with 2 figure-four moves in a row across the roof. There would be nothing for it but to have an all out go for it and make sure I didn’t fall off onto that gear!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quDKfzLk5kU/TynF3-gye-I/AAAAAAAACwQ/3IIgogIrjuU/s640/shionnachroof+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-quDKfzLk5kU/TynF3-gye-I/AAAAAAAACwQ/3IIgogIrjuU/s1600/shionnachroof+2.jpg)
Andy Turner and Ruth Taylor came up with me and Andy abseiled down to take some pictures and provide some much needed encouragement. The VII wall below the roof was the perfect warm up and I arranged the little cams at the start of the roof, changed gloves and got nervous. Eventually there was nothing for it so spanned out from the undercut hook at the back and launched out. Cutting loose onto the first hook, I swung out to see it wasn’t in the hook at all and hanging off a microscopic nubbin. As I dangled wondering what to do I explained to Ruth in a heated manner that I was about to lose my only point of contact with the roof. Rather than try and get a figure four in, which would surely rip with a head first fall, I attempted the start of a one armer and got as far as pulling my shoulder in a bit! That was enough to just reach into the next undercut hook and I was back in business. All this rather washed away the nerves and I slipped into committed mode and started the figure fours across the roof. The crap peg was still very comforting to clip before turning the lip and pushing on with total commitment turned rapidly to fear on the thinnest hook I’ve used on a trad route. All of a sudden I was at the last move. A big spiky flake just out of reach, fiddling to find a hidden torque in a flange of schist. There was enough time to think “what if that torque rips?! I’m going to fall the full distance!” I held that thought in the back of my mind through a careful cross into the flake and glorious lumps of frozen turf on the ramp beyond. Woohoo! The last 30 metres was much easier at about tech 6 but with non existent gear, so I tried hard not to rush and keep it steady. An amazing little route and definitely one that revives the psyche that there are good mixed projects out there in Scotland. I must admit after I did Anubis a couple of years ago my focus shifted a bit towards bouldering as I wasn’t sure what was the right routes to keep progressing with my winter climbing. I’ve called it Castle in the Sky which seems quite nice and the expression reflects how these super hard winter projects seem sometimes. I don’t have a grade for it except to say that it’s both hard and dangerous. It might be safer if a crack near the lip wasn’t choked with ice and would yield a well positioned cam. Since there aren’t really any routes other than my own to compare it to, I have to compare it to them!! A grade harder at least than Don’t Die maybe (which could be X,10 after Greg’s excellent second ascent recently according to Climb Magazine??) It probably fits within the same ballpark grade as Anubis too, whatever that should get? As you can see from the pictures, it doesn’t look like your average Scottish winter route. That’s because it’s not. It’s not a gully, it’s not a snowy turfy corner. It’s a big square cut cave, so it doesn’t get rime or snow in the roof. It’s good to have something different, otherwise things get boring.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8448754903681968882?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/YU5Kuer7wFI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Skeleton Boulder roof (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/cHGfrzBkjwA/skeleton-boulder-roof.html)
11 February 2012, 10:20 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s1RT8nGQXV0/TzbozwU5XBI/AAAAAAAACxA/I7dUEPrmHmI/s640/nice+day+gln+nevis+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s1RT8nGQXV0/TzbozwU5XBI/AAAAAAAACxA/I7dUEPrmHmI/s1600/nice+day+gln+nevis+1.jpg)
Spectacular view from the Skeleton Boulder, Glen Nevis
I just had a couple of sessions on the Skeleton boulder project without any success to speak of. The rock seems to be particularly unyielding to my attempts to be inventive with the sequence. It’s a classic boulder problem - enough holds that it’s obviously possible, but they are so unhelpfully arranged that it defeats every possible option. For my strength level at least. And there is the rub. I don’t think I can do much more with sequence cleverness. I’ve been trying to because I know that if I’m forced to stick with my current sequence, I don’t just need to be a little bit stronger. It would need a substantial change to my strength/weight ratio. People often ask me, especially at climbing lectures about fear and sense of mortality that climbing risky routes could highlight. I don’t have think (or at least dwell) too much about this on risky routes because I try and do them with a good reserve of control and never really get too scared. Actually, it’s trying super hard physical climbs like in bouldering that most strongly reminds me of the constraints of life. After yesterdays rather miserable performance on the roof, I was acutely aware that I don’t deal very well with the idea that some things might not be feasible for me. I’ve never really had to experience that yet. In that sense I’m a bit spoiled! I usually feel that it’s possible and just a matter of how much effort you are willing to put in. And I’ve realised from personal experience that you can always put in far more effort than you estimate in advance, so long as you start sufficiently down the road and then refuse to give in when progress grinds to halt. I’m also realistic. When I was 19 I was doing Font 7C I’m doing 8B/+ now at a push and that is reasonable progress. Is 8C possible? I’m not sure. So I guess this is where things get interesting in the climbing progress game. 33 years old and chasing a big jump in standard. Time to step up a gear then… Freida is a great daily reminder that progress can happen.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PoWVVbT26Y4/Tzbov2jv6xI/AAAAAAAACw4/PZTALcQFB-c/s640/nice+day+gln+nevis+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PoWVVbT26Y4/Tzbov2jv6xI/AAAAAAAACw4/PZTALcQFB-c/s1600/nice+day+gln+nevis+2.jpg)
Five Finger gully bathed in February sunshine.
Thanks to everyone who came out to our lecture in London the other day. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3030228927200197038?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/cHGfrzBkjwA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Glen Nevis podcasts (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rAtnmNmA9lg/glen-nevis-podcasts.html)
20 February 2012, 7:25 pm
(http://www.c0641424.myzen.co.uk/images/GNW-icon300x300.jpg) (http://www.c0641424.myzen.co.uk/images/GNW-icon300x300.jpg) One of the nice things about living where I do and working in the outdoor field is being involved in creative projects. Over the past few years I’ve made films and written books but recently I was asked to do something new for me - produce a series of podcasts! Claire and I have just finished a series of 6 podcasts about Glen Nevis on behalf of Friends of Nevis. If you haven’t heard of Friends of Nevis, they are the charity that looks after Ben Nevis and Glen Nevis. We were asked to produce and present 6 episodes and interview interesting folk who are connected to the place in some way. They are structured around different low level walks you can do in the glen, but it really doesn’t matter if you walk them, bike them, run them or use them to get to the cliffs! I spend a big chunk of my life training in the glen, hence being asked to produce the podcasts, but although I know a lot about one aspect of the place (the climbing history and landscape), there are many other areas I had much to learn about; the natural and human history, geology and ecology. So we had a great time interviewing many different experts in their different fields and putting together the episodes. The first one is uploaded now and you can stream/download it and of course subscribe to the others on the Friends of Nevis site here (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-podcasts-with-dave-macleod/), or on iTunes here. (http://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/glen-nevis-podcasts-dave-macleod/id503522053?i=110605711) I’ll be uploading the episodes weekly. The first one covers the lower part of the glen and in it I talk to Cubby Cuthbertson about almost falling down Five Finger Gully above this part of the glen, Mick Tighe about the first winter ascent of one of Scotland’s longest gullies - Surgeon’s Gully - and how it got it’s name, archaeologist Jennie Robertson about the remains of ancient clan settlements you can find hereabouts if you know where to look and geologist and climber Noel Williams about the upside down geology of the Mamores range of mountains. By the way if you would like to show your appreciation for this (free) production, the best way would be to make a wee donation to the charity on the Friends of Nevis site here (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/) (button at bottom of page). Every year they build the excellent paths you walk on the Ben and in the Glen, remove and carry literally tons of rubbish from these places and work to improve the facilities and the landscape generally. It’s pretty good work!
(http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/glennevispodcastleadweb1.jpg) (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/glennevispodcastleadweb1.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7197564178726578733?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rAtnmNmA9lg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Boulder moves done! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HFi3aQoQGJA/boulder-moves-done.html)
20 February 2012, 9:19 pm
Since I last spoke about my roof project on the Skeleton boulder, I’ve had another good few sessions on it. On my last blog I was getting a bit dejected, still unable to find a method for the crux move despite trying seemingly everything.
Well, I have surprised myself in managing to find a method to (sort of) do all the moves! How can you sort of do the moves? Technically speaking I have done them, I’ve pulled on each move and climbed the whole thing in three sections actually. But I'm aware that the sections in the crux don’t completely link as my highpoint into the crux move has my body hanging a little lower in a kneebar than where I’ve pulled on and actually done the crux. I won't totally know it will work for me until I can link through the entire section of about 7 hand moves.
So there is much, much progress still to be made before I even have a feeling it’s possible for me. But just finding a method that would clearly work for ‘some’ climber is superb progress.
Plus, each session I’m still making small improvements and learning new details about the sequence. Now that I’m properly starting to link moves together on it, I’m seeing how to make everything more efficient and getting the excitement of envisioning actually climbing right through the sequence.
It still feels very intimidating for me though, until I’m really warmed up the holds just feel terrible. While the Lochaber downpour rules for the next few day, I have some homework; stick to my diet, go for some soggy runs, make a new kneepad and do some much needed antagonist work for my brachioradialis which are not enjoying the repetitive compression moves.
I’m in the long bit in the middle between the excitement of finding a new project and finally seeing it through to an ever uncertain outcome. Let the battle sessions roll on...
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3004412013550949271?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HFi3aQoQGJA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Meeting Adam Watson (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/djv0MAGvGpw/meeting-adam-watson.html)
21 February 2012, 6:39 pm
The Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) asked us to make a short film about Dr Adam Watson to play at the festival, marking his award for excellence in mountain culture (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/mountain-award/) this year. I had of course read some of Adam’s work before when I’d just started climbing and was aware of his huge influence in the conservation of the Cairngorms and in many research fields including ptarmigan, snow distribution, Gaelic and many other areas of mountain culture. Like the other people to have received this award in previous years, it was obvious when I went to meet him that he was still very much full of the same energy and interest in his passions as ever, even as a man in his eighties. I proceeded to record a fascinating interview that could have formed the base for a much longer film, on everything from Speyside Gaelic speaking poachers of the Cairngorm deer forests over the past 100 years, to living with innuit in Baffin Island, to the 1950’s Scottish climbing scene, to the qualities needed to underpin a successful contribution to literature and scientific research. Oh, and a bit of Gaelic song! Driving home after a thought provoking day speaking with Adam, his wife Jenny and friend Derek Pyper, I had a new appreciation for the shared interest in mountains and the people involved in them, and felt pretty inspired by the energy that Adam puts into his lifelong effort to document and share his knowledge in writing so many books. The little film we made with the help of Adam, friends and colleagues of his, and a little music from Croft No. 5 (http://www.myspace.com/croftnofive) is above. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6091815434102070473?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/djv0MAGvGpw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Glen Nevis podcast episode 2 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AOgmxV8dlcE/glen-nevis-podcast-episode-2.html)
22 February 2012, 11:33 pm
(http://www.c0641424.myzen.co.uk/images/GlenNevis2.jpg) (http://www.c0641424.myzen.co.uk/images/GlenNevis2.jpg)
Archaeologist Jennie Robertson surveying in Glen Nevis during her interview for the Glen Nevis podcasts.
I’ve just uploaded the second episode of the Glen Nevis podcast series. It’s on Friends of Nevis here (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-podcast-episode-2/) or iTunes here (http://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/glen-nevis-podcasts-dave-macleod/id503522053?i=110605711). This episode covers the walk to the Iron Age vitrified fort of Dun Deardail which overlooks the glen from a spectacular position opposite Ben Nevis.
In this episode, we hear from Cameron McNeish and Ali Austin on the ancient caledonian pine forest that once covered this glen, archaeologist Jennie Robertson talks us through the history of the fort itself and the mysterious vitrification applied to the stone walls at great temperatures and Gaelic historian Ron Cameron gives us some leads on where the unusual name ‘Deardail’ may originate from. This route is one of my favourite running routes in the Glen, combined with Cow Hill if time or daylight are short for going onto the bigger mountains.
Also in the pipeline from Friends of Nevis right now is an Android phone App for Glen Nevis with lots of details and maps to direct your explorations of the best spots. It's in beta right now but you can download and try it here. (http://here./) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1956544677855659852?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AOgmxV8dlcE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Weather beaten on Hoy (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7S0FwI1lbcc/weather-beaten-on-hoy.html)
27 February 2012, 9:17 pm
The huge swell kicked up by storm force southwesterlies last Friday got the better of my date to speak about the Long Hope route back on Hoy itself. It’s a bit ironic really that the most important lecture of quite a lot I’ve done this winter should be the one that didn’t work out. I was really looking forward to talking to the locals about what all the fuss was about for me visiting the island all those times. It was OK though, at least the great audience that turned out in Hoy Kirk watched the film and apparently had a fun night. Sorry about that, and wish it could have worked out a bit better! I only found out the weather had finally got the better of the ferry schedule when I’d driven all the way up to Thurso. Not so keen to turn around and drive the way I came, I decided to go on a tour across to the west and see what could be seen.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HBPlukx_r1A/T0vuoOOzJEI/AAAAAAAACxg/Cv0hUE5O_Ps/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HBPlukx_r1A/T0vuoOOzJEI/AAAAAAAACxg/Cv0hUE5O_Ps/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+3.jpg) I spotted this fantastic and massive boulder on the beach near Tongue. Apparently called The Keystone. I’d say you’d be hard pushed to find a better looking V5 anywhere than the flakes leading right out through the overhang. (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ve19imSumZU/T0vujeUpXLI/AAAAAAAACxY/QHd5yRkj2jA/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ve19imSumZU/T0vujeUpXLI/AAAAAAAACxY/QHd5yRkj2jA/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg)
Ben Loyal looks like an interesting mountain. I’d love to do a route here sometime. No doubt I’ll get back for a wander about soon. I finished the day on a ridiculously hard boulder project near Sheigra, which after 7 hours driving and a mad dash across the moors in the failing light, 70mph winds and hail squalls didn’t go great. But it raised the psyche for the big drive home. (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mSDWjJMxCms/T0vuf6z-2NI/AAAAAAAACxQ/XXDNnMO0vqY/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mSDWjJMxCms/T0vuf6z-2NI/AAAAAAAACxQ/XXDNnMO0vqY/s1600/thurso%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg)
Nice Broch near Ben Loyal
The failure of my Hoy trip meant I could go to some family events in Glasgow. I had three bottles of beer and tried to climb the next day at TCA. Oh dear, I couldn’t get off the floor without shaking myself of the wall in a gibbering heap. Pathetic. Must do better. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2850314841622261924?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7S0FwI1lbcc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Glen Nevis podcast episode 3 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/skFBpxkfcBg/glen-nevis-podcast-episode-3.html)
29 February 2012, 11:41 pm
(http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/GlenNevispodcastheaders-glennevis-headers-4.jpg) (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/GlenNevispodcastheaders-glennevis-headers-4.jpg)
Episode 3 of the Glen Nevis Podcast series is online now on the Friends of Nevis site (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-podcast-episode-3/) and iTunes (http://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/glen-nevis-walks-dave-macleod/id503522053). This episode covers one of the most accessible walks in the glen from lower falls up to Paddy's Bridge. I've been back and forth across Paddy's Bridge on my way to the Skeleton Boulder most of last month and can't wait to get back up there when the current rubbish weather decides to change later this week There's Geologist Noel Williams talking about why the lovely Glen Nevis rock is all in the volcanic baking, Cubby talking about his favourite photography spots and Archaeologist Jennie Robertson on the many charcoal burners platforms you'll still find the remains of all over this part of the glen. Why were they burning so many trees? Have a listen... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2534966502313167707?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/skFBpxkfcBg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Glen Nevis podcast episode 4: Steall (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/L19qA6xVnEg/glen-nevis-podcast-episode-4-steall.html)
8 March 2012, 1:56 pm
(http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Glennevispodcast4.jpg) (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Glennevispodcast4.jpg)
Episode 4 of the Glen Nevis Walks Podcast is up now on Friends of Nevis here (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-walks-podcast-episode-4-steall/) and on iTunes here (http://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/glen-nevis-podcasts-dave-macleod/id503522053?i=110605711). This episode takes us through to Steall and the most dramatic bit of the glen. As usual there are stacks of good interviews but you climbers might be particularly interested in Kevin Howett’s rather worrying description of taking 60 foot falls onto an RP1 and breaking his ribs during the first ascent of Chairoscuro E7 6b in the gorge. I made the second ascent of Chairoscuro, onsight, in 2010, 23 years after Kev’s ascent. So listening to him describe the lonely upper arete brought back some strong memories for me too!
We’ve also made a couple of videos of the interviews contained in our Glen Nevis Walks podcast series. They’ll give you a taster of some of the interviews in the episodes. The first is geologist and climber Noel Williams describing the fascinating and unusual geology of Ben Nevis and it’s volcanic caldera.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2406019684262214713?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/L19qA6xVnEg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hill running (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Nm-76SDIVcs/hill-running.html)
8 March 2012, 2:17 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk1mOrVJTgo/T1i99PLYnHI/AAAAAAAACx8/pIDQCuzkPDw/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zk1mOrVJTgo/T1i99PLYnHI/AAAAAAAACx8/pIDQCuzkPDw/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+4.jpg)
Glen Ceitlin granite boulder hunting
Hill running was always a discipline I couldn’t get my head round. For the last ten years or so I’ve done a little every year, for one reason alone - to lose weight for hard rock climbing. Left to it’s own, it settles at a stocky build well too heavy for anything harder than 8c. So a couple of times a year, I tend to do a bit of running to get in shape for something hard in sport climbing or bouldering. Although it doesn’t even come close to the enjoyment I get from almost any type of climbing, I still enjoy running for a few different reasons. When I lived in Dumbarton in the mid 2000s and was training to get strong enough to climb Rhapsody, I used to do my fingerboarding and endurance circuits each day and then go running on the streets late at night. I used to use it to switch off and remind myself why I was doing all this training. I wasn’t doing the run in a particularly scenic place, so the enjoyment was purely internal. At that time, I used to think of hill runners as crazy. It just seemed so hard and relentless. How could you ever be fit enough to be able to enjoy it. Only later I understood how slowly hill runners (except the real pros of course) run uphill.
Now I live in the mountains I enjoy running primarily for the scenery and terrain. A great formula for me has been to use my runs to explore potential new bouldering spots in the more remote highland glens. Sometimes there are great boulders, sometimes there is just nice scenery and weather. Either way, it is enjoyable and answers a curiosity.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PACtr3ztIGs/T1i-AMnNI1I/AAAAAAAACyE/AK2_hxJL0PE/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PACtr3ztIGs/T1i-AMnNI1I/AAAAAAAACyE/AK2_hxJL0PE/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg)
Nice big boulder, a few good easier climbs to go on this.
I particularly enjoy these hill runs if the terrain itself is quite technical; rough paths, rocky ridges or slabs and even some scrambling. I don’t think I could ever sustain long runs on open trails, forestry tracks or roads since having experienced the hill running in the Scottish Highlands. Wild mountain areas all over the world have this opportunity to explore really interesting mountain terrain, unfolding I front of you as you move quickly through it.
Running the other day in Glen Ceitlin on my first run of the spring season, I was reminded that the feeling of running on open mountainside (apart from the real uphill parts) is like floating. It takes so much concentration to move at speed between rocks, tussocks, holes and over streams without falling over. Yet it is not thinking - just immediate, subconscious reaction to the movement sequence demanded from split second to second. Despite having to focus hard, your conscious mind has the chance to sit back, relax and enjoy being there. Hill running suddenly makes sense when you think of it in these terms - a feeling of flying over the terrain with little conscious effort. It’s obvious really that it would have to hold an enjoyment that was very strong, to be worth all the hardship that goes with it for those who do it all the time. Proper training for top performance in any sport has it’s fair share of grinding hard work doing boring exercises for the rewards. Hard climbing training, despite it’s hardships (lactate, finger skin destroying circuits and repetitive finger strength exercises) still probably has nothing on endurance running in this respect.
It’s true though that such feelings are fleeting. Just as I was floating along, dreamily pondering these ideas while running back down Glen Ceitlin, I misjudged the consistency of the bog ahead and dropped up to my knees in slurping peat porridge, lunging forwards with my momentum to land on my knee on a granite boulder beyond. After rolling around, clutching my knee and moaning for a few minutes, I limped off down the glen. Brought back down to earth.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RuLOLkSzkeY/T1i94d1r7II/AAAAAAAACxw/UoDXQTTecRQ/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RuLOLkSzkeY/T1i94d1r7II/AAAAAAAACxw/UoDXQTTecRQ/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7_1qU2OteWg/T1i93_hHLTI/AAAAAAAACxs/LS8DyZ1vxeI/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7_1qU2OteWg/T1i93_hHLTI/AAAAAAAACxs/LS8DyZ1vxeI/s1600/Glen+Ceitlin%250Dglennevis+headers+3.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-1406803291980508030?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Nm-76SDIVcs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Important link (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/WCMPZJvVEa8/important-link.html)
9 March 2012, 9:42 am
The other day, I mad a massive breakthrough on the Skeleton Boulder roof with the ‘2 halves’ link. I couldn’t quite believe it happened after seeming so, so far away. It’s quite strange how a few different strands of progress combine to propel you forward such a long way. Although I was pretty sure that a poor kneebar was the right beta for me to get through the crux, I was desperate to sort out something for my left foot to put myself in balance and with a stable base to slap the pinch on the lip without my feet cutting loose. Out of a lot of options, I’ve finally homed in on a sequence that I’m sure works for the whole link. The catalyst was losing a couple of pounds last week and a good stint of sessions on different boards. I has simply improved my strength/weight ratio enough to feel what the solution would be. You might think ‘why didn’t you get light earlier’. I don’t think that would really have worked. Short of a drastic weight loss, which would be seriously counterproductive in the longer run, I wasn’t ready to trim up until now. I needed to put in the hours on the line first, getting stronger on the moves and homing in on the best sequence for most of the moves. Now I feel good and confident on many of the moves, and since I’m starting to round off my fitness state with a pound or two lost, I’m getting closer to thinking about going into link mode and really going for some big attempts. I did actually climb from the start to the crux too, so you could call it overlapping halves. But I wasn’t tight enough on the third move to get my knee pulled right up to the best bit of the kneebar, so it doesn’t count. That can be my immediate goal now. The buzz of the breakthrough link from the second hard move to the top kept me up for most of a night. Pointlessly starting to imagine rest day/redpoint day planning despite the crazy Lochaber weather, which if I may say has been irritatingly crap. The feeling of having made an irrefutably clear breakthrough in strength and climbing ability isn’t something that happens all the time, except in the easy first couple of years of climbing where you just have to show up to get stronger and better. I’m aware of how special it is. So the prospect of trying to build on it and adding three more moves onto the start of my link is a little scary. But I’m sure I’ll get over it. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2311003721400713382?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/WCMPZJvVEa8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Glen Nevis Walks podcast 5 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mHIFCeUF1Jk/glen-nevis-walks-podcast-5.html)
16 March 2012, 11:57 am
(http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/glennevispodcast5.jpg) (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/glennevispodcast5.jpg)
Episode 5 of the Glen Nevis Walks podcast talks about the Gaelic names of the Ben and the Mamores range with Gaelic historian Ron Cameron. Mick Tighe tells about his north face lowers on Ben Nevis, being lowered on a 1000 foot rope to find stuck ice climbers somewhere in the night below. John Muir Trust ranger and climber Ali Austin tells us about some of the wildlife in the Glen which I must say constantly amazes me. Enjoy. It’s right here (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/glen-nevis-walks-podcast-episode-5/). And on iTunes here. (http://itunes.apple.com/gb/podcast/glen-nevis-podcasts-dave-macleod/id503522053?i=110605711) By the way if you are into putting something back, you could join myself and a small group of other folk doing a clear up in the lower part of the Glen around the curling ponds on Friday 23rd March. Details here. (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/events-2/curling-ponds-volunteering/) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3913047160896983055?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mHIFCeUF1Jk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Steall sessions start with a new route (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/j65pekG8USk/steall-sessions-start-with-new-route.html)
16 March 2012, 12:24 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VK-_Sj3l920/T2MsnxFb_tI/AAAAAAAACyQ/CE5h1H5wtTA/s640/Stolen+direct%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VK-_Sj3l920/T2MsnxFb_tI/AAAAAAAACyQ/CE5h1H5wtTA/s1600/Stolen+direct%250Dglennevis+headers+2.jpg)
Bouldery climbing on Stolen Direct 8b/+, Steall
Finally a break in the rain and some decidedly unwintery weather in Scotland and it was time to venture up to Steall for the first time this season. I had a quick session on my project which although obviously still felt sick hard, I could do the moves straight away so it was nice to get a first taste of the effects of the winter’s training. (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lzO7fwPSLKU/T2MsuqdRXyI/AAAAAAAACyY/qc03U12v5qM/s200/Stolen+direct%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lzO7fwPSLKU/T2MsuqdRXyI/AAAAAAAACyY/qc03U12v5qM/s1600/Stolen+direct%250Dglennevis+headers+1.jpg)After that I decided to look again at a direct start to Stolen that I bolted last year. I had thought the first three bolts would be 8b+ in themselves, with the meat of Stolen to do above that. But a small block had fallen off making a slightly better foothold just where you need it. After a couple of tries, I did it! Since I’d only had one quick bolt to bolt up Stolen and hadn’t tied onto a rope for a looooong time, I didn’t think I’d have the endurance to carry on to the top without a couple of sessions learning how to be a route climber again. There was a bit of puffing and panting, but I got there without too much stress. My base level of strength does seem not too bad. A good place to start for the project. The direct start to Stolen might be 8b or 8b+, not sure so we’ll say 8b/8b+. Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Clocking up some training hours (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TSBm4hgC6S4/clocking-up-some-training-hours.html)
22 March 2012, 9:49 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nncGwT4J0Wk/T2uRJGEaLqI/AAAAAAAACyo/e0m7x3tKSSA/s1600/steall+greg+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nncGwT4J0Wk/T2uRJGEaLqI/AAAAAAAACyo/e0m7x3tKSSA/s1600/steall+greg+2.jpg)
Greg Boswell working on Leopold, 8a. A great three days at Steall with Michael and Greg. The first morning started grimly wet after 24 hours of heavy rain. All the streams were in spate, and that was just the ones coming down the crag. Nevertheless we worked our moves and got sequences dialled on our respective projects. Today the sun was out and spring was well and truly in the air for the first time. The crux of my project was still seepy, so it was simply time to put in the reps on the first half. To get steely strong and fit on the moves. This bit is both hard and easy. Sore fingers, pumped arms and tying right back in for another burn right after you lowered off. On the other hand, there’s no stress. Hard work is not scary on it’s own. You can’t lose; just put in the hours in the knowledge that the big progress happens right here, not on the eventual redpoints, which are just the very end of the process. In the last week I’ve gone from bouldering strong with zero endurance to almost getting through the crux of Ring of Steall 8c+. It’s a great start, but just a start. I have some killer beta for the crux, but could do with a bit more. The bit above Ring of Steall gets properly hard. It feels good to be able to rep the easy lower part without getting pumped. But to even get close to redpoints, I’d need to be doing the same on the upper half. I couldn’t even imagine that right now. About a month or maybe six weeks of uninterrupted power-endurance training on the right sort of terrain will be needed. Soon I’m leaving for a long trip with a fair bit of bouldering. So I’ll rack up some more sessions on the crux, and hopefully get a confidence boosting link before I go. While I’m away I can continue to build up some iron crimp strength and the sort of fitness you only get from trips. Exciting stuff.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CWl0oSIWFsY/T2uRIGKUJ3I/AAAAAAAACyg/FYPOqJHPva4/s1600/steall+greg+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CWl0oSIWFsY/T2uRIGKUJ3I/AAAAAAAACyg/FYPOqJHPva4/s1600/steall+greg+1.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3901518907575502445?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/TSBm4hgC6S4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New links (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/BPMKx9lSBOg/new-links.html)
31 March 2012, 10:27 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fA9B6CcAgio/T3eBfu0fZrI/AAAAAAAACy4/mVHtw3ABC20/s1600/P1020738.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fA9B6CcAgio/T3eBfu0fZrI/AAAAAAAACy4/mVHtw3ABC20/s1600/P1020738.jpg)
On the crux of Ring of Steall 8c+, on the way to the actual crux! I have been enjoying good sessions in fine conditions on my project at Steall. My objective was just to get a sequence I was happy with before I leave for Switzerland. But It’s gone better than I expected. On the last session I linked from the block after the Ring of Steall crux to the top. This rather brutal section of climbing revolves around three big moves in a row. Each of them used to feel pretty damn hard in isolation. But on my second link they felt pretty solid. It’s taken a bit of time to re-learn the subtleties of the Ring of Steall crux. But I think I’ve got it again now. But I’m still a good bit away from the pre-requisite of managing to redpoint through it every go! I still think the egyptian move must be one of the best moves on British rock. Easy if you do it perfectly, impossible if you are even slightly out of the right body position. I’m definitely feeling some momentum of a good run of training and can’t believe I’ll be in Switzerland next weekend! First up, more STEEEAAALLL!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3IwJ6p0urx0/T3eBfkSw2SI/AAAAAAAACy0/m9TRuOXxn4A/s1600/P1020724.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3IwJ6p0urx0/T3eBfkSw2SI/AAAAAAAACy0/m9TRuOXxn4A/s1600/P1020724.jpg)
Michael getting the workout on my own route Steallworker, 8b.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7809800827302052910?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/BPMKx9lSBOg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Swiss Gneiss first week (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/nW3XHL_sUvc/swiss-gneiss-first-week.html)
28 April 2012, 8:10 pm
I’m settling well into Switzerland, sharing our flat with various friends and visiting the boulders. The first week of my trip was spent in Chrionico which was unfortunately a little warm for hard stuff, and rainy too, but still good fun. I was speaking in Lecco also which was a great evening, if a little stressful with my words being translated sentence by sentence. I think it worked ok for the 500+ audience who turned out! I spent a couple of sessions trying From the Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C which was excellent. I got the moves but it was far too warm in the sun for the famously slopey top out. I’m sure I’ll come back to this one sometime. Rounded topouts are a huge weakness of mine which although I don’t enjoy them so much I’d like to improve at them. In between trying this I went across the river and made a quick ascent of Conquistador Direct 8B/+ which was recently put up and the video of it looked excellent. I made my own video above. It was just as good as it looked although I did have a grumble to myself about the heat making in hard to squeeze the pinches. It’s really made me realise how lucky we are in Scotland with frequent good conditions thanks to the almost permanent wind! When I was climbing Conquistador Direct it was about 14 degrees and humid after the rain but completely still. It’s often 14-16 degrees in the highland glens right through the summer, but with a good wind it’s much easier to stick to the holds. The rain, however, does present a problem…occasionally. Now we have moved over to Magic Wood which despite the sudden 20 degree increase in temperature, conditions are still surprisingly good and getting some excited about recent links. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8703339054089096889?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/nW3XHL_sUvc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New Base Line (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EmXAgBvIjrc/new-base-line.html)
30 April 2012, 7:42 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C12_hbUWxLU/T57mMveVJ7I/AAAAAAAACzY/jRuW7DBMe_8/s640/Dave_NBL_04.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C12_hbUWxLU/T57mMveVJ7I/AAAAAAAACzY/jRuW7DBMe_8/s1600/Dave_NBL_04.jpg)
Climbing New Base Line 8B+, Magic Wood. Video stills from the Polished Project. Their blog is here (http://polishedproject.tumblr.com/) and has a few more pics. Woohoo! I’m well pleased I did one of my long term dream climbs - New Base Line 8B+ in Magic Wood. It is one of the most iconic hard problems on the planet and I’ve seen so many pictures of the world’s best boulderers on it and thought it looked line an inspiring line. For years I’ve wanted to come and try it, but I expected it would only be to see how hard it was. I didn’t really dare to think I could do it. I was able to climb it a lot faster than I expected, on my third session. When I walked up the first day and saw it, I just thought it looked even more inspiring than the pictures. But after a couple of weeks in Switzerland I’ve finally curbed my tendency to headless chicken, and I carefully worked the individual moves. I got them all done after an hour or two but was getting worried about very thin fingertips.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfY0I3OyAKU/T57mMPfHkzI/AAAAAAAACzQ/8jP_0fkyTjw/s640/Dave_NBL_03.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TfY0I3OyAKU/T57mMPfHkzI/AAAAAAAACzQ/8jP_0fkyTjw/s1600/Dave_NBL_03.jpg) Next day I found an even better foot sequence for the first and last moves and got overlapping halves before my skin totally died. My plan was to have a rest day and come back for some proper attempts. Lukasz and Wojtek were arriving that day for a week of filming me talking about ideas of mine about climbing. Maybe they would have timed their visit well? But next day it snowed like hell I had to take another rest day to sit out the blizzard. The guys couldn’t even make it up the road to Magic Wood film the snowy landscapes. I knew that there would likely be a few days of snow melting down New Base Line. So, never shy to shift some offending snow, I borrowed a yard brush from our flat, floundered up through the forest and cleared great heaps of soft snow from the top of the boulder. It was a good strategy. Next day it was bone dry and in perfect condition. So I warmed up and battled my way all the way to the finishing jug. I wasn’t quite warmed up to full power on the successful go and on the final four moves I was fading fast, swinging out wildly on every move. If it had been a week earlier in the trip I’d have definitely fallen, but I’ve really re-learned the bouldering skill of just not letting go even when your mind tells you you’re falling. I was so happy to complete it. Apart from being so nice to climb, it’s definitely a landmark in my bouldering progress. We finished off the day with a flash of Foxy Lady 8A and had a session on an 8C that seems to suit me. Since then I’ve been back for another session trying hard things, and once my skin and muscles get tired, going off round the forest ticking off classics like Sofa Surfer 8A, Muttertag 8A and Free for All 8A. The weather has gone rather downhill again - warm and wet, which is probably just as well as I’ve seriously pulled a muscle in my trunk and can hardly bend down never mind climb hard!
The footage of New Base Line and all the others will be in the Lukasz and Wojtek's film, although the main part of the film is about ideas of mine, and things I've learned from the last ten years of my climbing life.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hu4o4Iaixk/T57mLWYyBcI/AAAAAAAACzI/iUcsiKFCGR0/s640/Dave_NBL_02.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--hu4o4Iaixk/T57mLWYyBcI/AAAAAAAACzI/iUcsiKFCGR0/s1600/Dave_NBL_02.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-718v4jesA0o/T57mNJwldtI/AAAAAAAACzs/jv65L2qTa8g/s640/Dave_NBL_05.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-718v4jesA0o/T57mNJwldtI/AAAAAAAACzs/jv65L2qTa8g/s1600/Dave_NBL_05.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ki8KxiynnI/T57mNaBZvzI/AAAAAAAACzo/9GtL8c1ew5A/s640/Dave_NBL_06.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Ki8KxiynnI/T57mNaBZvzI/AAAAAAAACzo/9GtL8c1ew5A/s1600/Dave_NBL_06.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7538978662861906303?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EmXAgBvIjrc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hot Hot Hot (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qQzLumy8dZY/hot-hot-hot.html)
12 May 2012, 10:48 am
Scots don’t do well in the heat. We always used to shake our heads when we waited for the Glasgow flight home from sport climbing trips in Spain, watching reams of fellow Scots returning home lobster coloured and happy. Of course, whether we were the exactly the same colour just depended whether our project for the week was south facing or not. Although I struggle with the cold in Scottish winter climbing, I certainly don’t in bouldering. Probably because my work rate at the crag never drops low enough to get cold. My sweaty fingers keep me from climbing harder than about 7C+ indoors most of the time. But with a cold Scottish breeze I can actually use my finger strength.
You can probably tell this blog is a bit of a conditions moan. Well, it’s not really. Yesterday at 3pm my car read 37 degrees driving to Chur. But at 5am that morning I was falling off the last move of my project in 10 degrees. Still waaaay to hot for me but at least I could get on OK. In Scotland it would be totally fine since you’d probably be pinning your mats down with rocks to stop them blowing away in the wind. But here in Switzerland, wind seems like a distant memory. I saw a twig move on a slight breath of breeze at 7am and had a really good attempt next try. But hope is on the way. A cold front ahead of my last couple of sessions in Switzerland might help me climb a little harder problems before I head home. Aside from it being too hot for the really hard stuff now, I'm feeling great in my climbing, strong and enjoying pulling hard without any injury niggles at all. Even the holes in my fingers have healed up well now.
Better get to bed early. Alarm for 4am... drink tea, put on head torch, stumble to the boulders. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6039012667306716804?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qQzLumy8dZY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lecture tour of southern UK (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/W3wWwkjEYOQ/lecture-tour-of-southern-uk.html)
12 May 2012, 10:49 am
In the last part of May I’m doing a little tour around England and Wales, speaking at various places I’ve never lectured at before. The tour was organised by Cotswold Outdoor and the talks will be at their stores. While showing you pictures and videos from various climbing adventures from recent years I’ll discuss thoughts about everything from risk in the mountains to why hard projects are important and how I was lucky to make some great decisions to prepare me for doing hard climbs. The dates are: Reading - May 22nd Southampton May 23rd Cardiff May 24th Chester May 28th Plymouth May 29th Bournemouth May 30th London Islington May 31st Since the talks are in the Cotswold stores it might be a plan to ring and get a ticket, although tickets will be available on the door too. You can find out how to get tickets from this page on the Cotswold site. (http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/pages.events/sub/lectures) See you there, looking forward to it. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3652750615643067189?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/W3wWwkjEYOQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mystic Stylez (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/COH418L-2XI/mystic-stylez.html)
13 May 2012, 8:33 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tml26NQ4jjU/T6-n1CU9YiI/AAAAAAAAC0A/v8XSg1XNzBI/s640/mysticstylez1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Tml26NQ4jjU/T6-n1CU9YiI/AAAAAAAAC0A/v8XSg1XNzBI/s1600/mysticstylez1.jpg)
Holding the swing on the last hard move of Mystic Stylez Font 8C, Magic Wood (video still) The footage will be in the Polished Project (http://polishedproject.com/) film which is on the way.
Today I climbed Mystic Stylez 8C in Magic Wood. As far as I know the second ascent of this Daniel Woods climb from last year. It really has been a big restorer of my confidence after a couple of weeks of questioning my ability to get things done.
Having just succeeded and with the benefit of hindsight, I think it’s probably fair to say I tend to be a bit hard on myself at times. So much so that I know people sometimes mistake me for not taking satisfaction from my climbing. While being hard on yourself makes you hard edged and a bit ‘difficult’, it does have its uses, in moderation. This is how it went:
After I did New Base Line nearly two weeks ago I wandered down to Muttertag (8a) to try that and look at Daniel Woods 8C sit start, Mystic Stylez. With only three moves into the stand start, itself a one hard move 8A, It must have some pretty bad holds? The holds did seem better than you would expect, but it’s not until you try it you realise that they are at such unhelpful angles that moving between them is desperate. It’s a running theme with the steeper problems on Swiss Gneiss. The holds are deceptively good, but the climbing very powerful. The only way to make powerful moves less powerful is to get more weight on your feet.
So after getting the stand start in a few tries, I set about finding all manner of knee ligament shredding contortions to get opposition with my feet for the crux. I found a method to reach the right hand hold of the stand start, but was completely unable to move from that position (except towards the ground). But it was enough of a sequence to warrant some more serious sessions.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m7ITSsgEUvw/T6-n2-Af3mI/AAAAAAAAC0I/M3bZNJDXOVI/s640/mysticstylez2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m7ITSsgEUvw/T6-n2-Af3mI/AAAAAAAAC0I/M3bZNJDXOVI/s1600/mysticstylez2.jpg)
Then the temperature rocketed. 25 degrees in Chur, then 26, then 28. By the second week it hit 37 degrees briefly while driving to the shops. I started climbing by headtorch after dusk, then getting up at 4am and warming up by headtorch. It’s always hard to just blame conditions. I was determined that my movement was getting worse; more errors, less confidence. With hindsight, the big greasy fingerprints on the holds after each attempt should have told me that my lack of confidence that I could make more progress was because I could feel my fingers sliding from the warm holds, unable to apply their strength.
I replaced biscuits at the crag with apples, rested, got up earlier, and carefully refined my movement on each session. Time to leave for Scotland was approaching fast, but each session I did learn at least one small thing about how to climb the moves better. And I got a little further. On my last session before departure day, I touched the finishing finger rail on Muttertag 4 times. Although it is the last hold, touching it and holding it are two different things. It would be expensive, but I could change my travel home and stay another week for the small chance I could keep making progress. It seemed a remote chance of making any difference. Maybe I should just take my medicine and go home to the fingerboard? I joked with a friend that on the other hand, maybe I ought to take my climbing more seriously than that and just stay no matter how remote my chances. He knew what I meant, but still laughed. Although lots of people think I do take climbing unbelievably seriously, a lot of the time I do feel like I’m at constant risk of being a lazy bastard and not fulfilling my potential.
On one hand, the climb represented a target to focus my efforts. It’s just a bit of rock and it doesn’t matter to anyone whether I climb it or not. But completing it does make a difference in the mind of the climber. If you’ve really set yourself the target, and you’ve done enough work to know it’s possible, then giving in when the ‘extra mile’ to completion is there for the taking makes it difficult to move on with confidence to the next challenge. I’ve completed plenty of super hard projects, and have many more incomplete projects that I’m just not ready for yet. So I have been here before. I knew I might not manage it, but I looked forward and visualised driving home to Scotland without the send. The failure on the climb wouldn’t be worth a second thought (because if you never have failures, you can’t be trying anything that’s actually hard). The only regret I’d have would be failing without first giving everything to the fight.
So I rebooked the travel this morning, and studied the forecast. Rain on a cold front was coming through (at last!). By tomorrow, the front would be through and the temperature lower. So I planned to go for a run in the woods and get up at 4am for the next session. On the way I dropped in to see Thomas at Bodhi Climbing and book a room for the final days. He reckoned the rain was coming tomorrow, and I panicked. I walked outside and the temperature was dropping, clouds lowering and wind increasing. Maybe I should just get on it right NOW?!
So I jogged into the woods, and got my mats out under Mystic Stylez. As I did, raindrops started to patter onto the mats. I laughed at how desperate this was getting and just did the stand start twice for a warm up and to see if the rain would come on properly. It started to get heavier. Inwardly I said ‘well maybe I should just do it first try!’, while thinking back to the last 4 sessions of failures.
And then, I pulled on and did it first try. I was strong enough, confident enough and moving well enough all along. All I needed was a cool wind. All in all I probably tried it for 8 sessions. I’m pretty sure I could have done it in 4 if the conditions had stayed cold.
It seems that it doesn’t matter how many times you learn that conditions matter and it’s ok to be confident when you’ve put in the work, it’s hard not to get downbeat when things don't run smoothly. At least this leaves room for nice surprises.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2737619427777258700?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/COH418L-2XI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Using the natural method (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/-mG4awlOQoc/using-natural-method.html)
18 May 2012, 8:53 pm
At the end of March, a week before I left for Switzerland, I completed a long term boulder project in Glen Nevis, the roof on the Skeleton boulder. I was ecstatic to finally finish such a fantastic line, and one which I’d had a good struggle with. I didn’t mention I'd actually completed it until now (here at least) as I thought it would be good to first see how it compared to some boulder testpieces in the famous Swiss venues.
John Watson showed me the boulder not long after I moved to Lochaber in 2007. I first worked on it for a handful of sessions in 2008. One of those sessions you might remember from the movie ‘Committed 2’. All in all, it’s pretty much a perfect boulder climb - it’s a great roof feature with a straightforward but high headwall finish. It’s in one of the most scenic spots in Scotland, but I’ve never once seen another soul there apart from folk I’ve gone up there with. It has obvious holds the whole way, so you can be sure it’s possible. Yet the method that worked for me didn’t show itself until two weeks before I did it, with a eureka moment while lying in bed daydreaming.
After those early sessions in 2008 I had injured elbows for nearly two years and couldn’t really train strength with any sort of commitment. So I knew there was no point going on it. In the meantime, I trained my technique. When my elbows were at their worst, I would probably struggle to do F7a at the climbing wall without pain. At that time, I went and climbed a lot of slabs - The Walk of Life, Indian Face etc. After a while I got back up to about F8c+ standard, but only if I just went climbing. I still couldn’t train. I missed bouldering a lot during this period, hence I’m having my fill now I’m healthy again! I still went bouldering as much as elbows allowed, and I became a little obsessed with finding super technical ways to do hard boulder problems. It was a fun experiment to see how hard you could boulder on fingers that hadn’t seen a fingerboard in two years. Eternity’s Gate was probably my best effort during that time, although it probably doesn’t count as it’s 25 metres long!
Of course it had limitations, but I definitely feel a much better climber for it. I’ve noticed that I can more consistently find sequences that provide that killer advantage on the hard moves. In winter this year, my ‘100%’ twinge free sessions were getting more and more consistent, at the same time as doing more and more hard 45 board sessions. I even managed the odd fingerboard session, although deep lock offs still awake sleeping demons in my elbows.
So I went back to the Skeleton boulder. For a few weeks I wrestled with so many potential sequences, eventually having a bit of brain-crash and losing my focus a little. Then, the right sequence popped into my head while daydreaming. It took a couple of sessions to morph what I had imagined into what actually worked. But one attempt I suddenly found myself holding the swing on the lip after climbing through the crux. I walked down to the car 6 feet off the ground after that session.
The final hurdle to sharpen up the fingers were some foot-off bouldering sessions at the Ice Factor. It turned out that entering the crux was actually slightly easier if you’d done the starting moves rather than pulling on at half way to work the moves. The day I did it, I’d had a really crap morning and was feeling fed up and not fully concentrated. So I had no tension of anticipation of success. I just found myself standing in the warm sunshine on the top and had to double check with myself that I’d actually climbed it from the start!
Like every hard project, It felt really easy when I actually did it. In fact I did it again a few days later when getting a few pictures with Cubby. Because I don’t boulder that much and when I do it’s always first ascents, I have no solid idea about bouldering grades. Before I went to Switzerland I thought I should give it 8B. But now I think maybe 8B+ is fairer. That is on the British-Font scale which I sense is a little (!) different from what I read and the odd Gaskins problem I’ve tried on visits to the south. In Switzerland it would be a harder grade! There are quite a few problems around Scotland now which are a lot harder than both New Base Line and Mystic Stylez which I climbed in Magic Wood recently. The disparity in grading scales isn’t something I’d like to get too involved in, except to acknowledge it’s there.
It’s called ‘Natural Method’ as a nod to George Hebert who was one of the earliest proponents of Parkour as a method to gain specific fitness that was useful for real life tasks, as opposed to relying too much on basic strength work like weights. My experience of bouldering while injured showed me that although my technique wasn’t bad from my Dumbarton apprenticeship, I still was seriously undervaluing it even as a much more experienced climber. That said, although the natural method of trying to climb harder and harder without training was invaluable, the basic strength work was still essential to make it work at the limits of my ability. Like so many things, it wasn’t one or the other, but both in spades.
Feels like it might be time to tie onto a rope again... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-277216482885362075?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/-mG4awlOQoc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Home Soon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iN5F9FHWYdM/home-soon.html)
25 May 2012, 9:30 am
Another clip from the Polished Project (http://polishedproject.com/) film 'Dave' which is on the way. This clip shows off what a nice climb New Base Line is!
I was home from Switzerland for all of one night before driving south to speak at various Cotswold stores around England and Wales. After the first talks I have a couple of days off now and then to Chester, Bouremouth, Islington - details here (http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/pages.events/sub/lectures)). I spent a long time looking forward to the Swiss bouldering trip and enjoyed it a lot. Now I’m going to be heading home soon I’m pretty sure it’s time for some routes again. I’ll need to start from scratch with endurance for tries on my Steall project. I also need to put some time into planning more trips this year. On my last day I finally managed to get a session on Practice of the Wild (8C) before I left Magic Wood. It was dry for the first time since I’ve been here. It’s definitely the most inspiring line I’ve seen in the woods and I’d be keen to return sometime to work on it more. It has definitely reminded me not to be afraid to try the harder stuff in bouldering even though I struggle a lot with indoor climbing. For sure this is partly down to my training diet of mostly climbing outdoors - I can usually get more weight on my feet than most on real rock. But a big part of it is my sweaty fingertips and general inability to perform well even in moderately warm conditions. I’ve resisted this conclusion for a long time, but it’s probably better if I just accept it and start working with rather than against it. My body also feels in good shape to start some basic finger strength training again this year. I’ll have to be careful to build up slowly. That, together with some other changes in my training will hopefully reap some good rewards down the line. In the short term, I’ll see where the mood takes me when I get home and probably go exploring some of the great places I’ve still never been to. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6132553813497192188?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iN5F9FHWYdM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fluid Plans (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/x8gZmOeMDZI/fluid-plans.html)
27 May 2012, 9:52 pm
Sometimes I sense that I’m a bit too keen just to take climbing as it comes. I must admit that when not tied to any particular objective which is forming my focus, I tend to lose my focus a bit. Not in an apathetic way - quite the opposite. I headless chicken. My mind fills with so many possibilities that it does become rather paralysing. Not a bad problem to have.
I’ve just come out of a long period in my climbing where I was quite restricted. 2 years of no proper training due to injury, and a lot of time training my legs and seabird fighting skills on Orkney. With those behind me, I’m keen to step up a gear. To move to another level takes a fair bit of time. I’ve put in a good base over winter with an increasing amount of bouldering indoors and then a good trip bouldering in Switzerland. But it’s really just a foundation block. I’ve still been very careful not to build up too fast. I think now I’m feeling safe to step up another notch to more intense strength and fitness work. It’s an odd feeling to have that sense of resistance to training after so long feeling fragile. So what to train for? Hard multipitch new routes on big mountain cliffs in Scotland and abroad. Some more repeats of others hard trad routes and my super hard project at Steall. All of the above. The bouldering is always there, building a foundation of strength to take to the big routes. I do know about a few boulder projects around Scotland that will demand another level than I’m climbing right now. Some local and some further afield. I must take a look at the line left of Seven of Nine in Glen Nevis. Sky Pilot is after all one of the nicest places to hang out I can think of. As for my sport project, progress on that depends a little on the summer weather, but there is always enough good days to get at least some time on it. I’m quite into the idea of training away from it too. I think a routine of trad climbing 2 or 3 days a week over summer and evening board sessions of anaerobic circuits will work well. I do miss the feeling of being stamina fit. It’s been a while! Bizarrely enough, one of the main issues with using a board to clock up large amounts of daily circuit time comes down to skin rather than motivation. My hands just get so trashed I do struggle to keep going despite telling myself to ‘man up’ constantly. I need to experiment a bit to build up and take care of my fingers better, or get better at ‘detachment’.
In in Wales right now, en route to my lecture in Chester on Monday night. Last night I had a good session at Dinas Rock. I did the second ascent of Liam Fyfe’s monster roof link ‘Wife of Fyfe’ 8A/ F8b+ which I headed for since it was tagged as the hardest line in South Wales (hasty video above). It’s 25 metres long and not having climbed anything longer than about 5 moves in 2 months, I expected to just work on it to get my endurance off the starting rung. But it was interesting to note that the individual moves felt easy enough to get through despite forearms like balloons. So maybe I do have a good base to start from. So now for the next stage of hard work to start. It was nice to run into Liam himself at the crag while I was repeating his line. I'd witnessed his strength on the rock before and despite several months of recent layoff was still looking like a machine on the rock. Thanks for the inspiration Liam!
PS After my lecture in Chester Cotswolds tomorrow night (7.30pm), I'm speaking at the Plymouth store on Tues, Bournemouth on Weds and Islington on Thurs. See you there.. details here. (http://www.cotswoldoutdoor.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/pages.events/sub/lectures) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-967668654555096759?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/x8gZmOeMDZI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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9 de cada 10 escaladores cometen los mismos errores (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/w9Db-yROiQ0/9-de-cada-10-escaladores-cometen-los.html)
27 May 2012, 10:15 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/9decada10escaladores.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9decada10escaladores.html) We arrived home from Switzerland to find our stock of our latest publication; the Spanish edition of 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes! 9 de cada 10 escaladores cometen los mismos errores (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9decada10escaladores.html) is now available in the shop right here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9decada10escaladores.html). It’s €18 and worldwide shipping is €3. We are massively grateful to Alicia Hudelson and Elena Suarez for a huge amount of hard work to make the translation of the book. 9 out of 10 has been out for 2 years now and read by many thousands of climbers all over the English speaking parts of the planet. We are continually amazed not only by it’s popularity but the nice messages from so many of you letting us know that it helped you break real barriers in your climbing. It’s a pleasure to open it up to a Spanish speaking audience. Stay tuned for news of some other translations of the book... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8357992639715778867?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/w9Db-yROiQ0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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I know the perfecto candidate for doing an italian translation...
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Redpoint - a whole book on tactics finally! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/sTh8K7X-7as/redpoint-whole-book-on-tactics-finally.html)
9 June 2012, 10:29 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/redpoint.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/redpoint.jpg) Finally we’ve got hold of some stock of Hague and Hunter’s new book ‘Redpoint’ in the shop (right here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/redpoint.html)). The authors are most famous for their superb book The Self-Coached Climber which is justifiably one of our better selling climbing improvement texts. Like I’m sure most experienced coaches know, tactics are becoming an increasingly important area that forms the difference between progress and stagnation among modern climbers. So they have written a whole book dedicated to perfecting all the tactical tricks and advantages for both onsight and redpoint climbing. It’s a worthy addition to the knowledge base and I’d say there are very few climbers around who are not aware of, or milking all the tactical advantages offered in the book. Whether you read it as a beginner or intermediate level climber to open up a whole new world of tactical awareness and advantage, or as an expert climber reminding yourself of all the tricks you could be using to get that crucial extra edge for your current goal, I’d recommend it. It’s a substantial subject and a substantial book too. There’s even a 30 minute DVD that comes with it to see the tactics in action. They have included some assessment forms and checklists in each section to help you get a clearer idea of where you stand with your use and prowess of different tactics or skills. This sort of thing maybe doesn’t appeal to everyone. But if writing things down isn’t your style, you can just skip them and simply read the advice. Just as with The Self-Coached Climber, the book is thoughtfully laid out, well illustrated with colour photos and thorough without being a mind-number. As a coach visiting ever improving climbing walls with stronger and fitter climbers, I’ve appreciated that tactics are the big deal for climbers these days. More and more often, climbers have the strength and fitness from many hours in the climbing wall. But without even knowing it, lack of tactical awareness has placed the glass ceiling above their head much lower than it ought to be. It’s a shame when that happens. You can get hold of a copy from our shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/redpoint.html). Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5522649678930338892?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/sTh8K7X-7as)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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On the lookout (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/CZEJfyX4SfQ/on-lookout.html)
12 June 2012, 8:21 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h1Mb6dxuAaw/T9edNOjQq5I/AAAAAAAAC0Y/0bNvP55PBto/s640/glenelg+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-h1Mb6dxuAaw/T9edNOjQq5I/AAAAAAAAC0Y/0bNvP55PBto/s1600/glenelg+2.jpg)
The stunning and tranquil lost valley, Glen Coe Since getting home from my travels I’ve been doing all the necessary tasks of settling in and getting out to climb in some new places. With Alicia I checked out the Lost Valley boulders in Glen Coe. There’s definitely some new stuff that I’d come back for another look at here. In fact I cant believe more problems haven’t been recorded in this beautiful but very accessible location.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BnZaOh6tXB4/T9edQJOHjfI/AAAAAAAAC1E/xS0yeOxGigM/s640/glenelg+7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BnZaOh6tXB4/T9edQJOHjfI/AAAAAAAAC1E/xS0yeOxGigM/s1600/glenelg+7.jpg)
Nice Font 4, first ascent, Glen Elg We also looked at some untouched boulders in Glen Elg. There’s room for 50 or 60 porblems here. We did three fantastic ones from Font 4 to 6b+ on excellent crimpy gneiss in about 15 minutes but we got the wind forecast wrong and the midges called an immediate halt to proceedings before they got started. This is primarily a venue for 6s and 7s, although there are a few harder things to do. It was too midgy to brush our problems first so if you go, take a wiry with you. After driving past the famous brochs, park at the road end and walk up the farm track for 10 minutes and you’ll see the boulders over the river.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2RxJeULPeOQ/T9edPnTVsaI/AAAAAAAAC1A/tgzM9lY7E1w/s640/glenelg+6.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2RxJeULPeOQ/T9edPnTVsaI/AAAAAAAAC1A/tgzM9lY7E1w/s1600/glenelg+6.jpg)
Boulders, Glen Elg. Yes, that’s a high deer fence and big trees (and big boulders!) Instead we drive round to Applecross and I ticked Mike’s Problem 7C+ which is a beautiful problem. I’d been to the boulder once before about 6 years ago and had a ten minutes on it while it was still unclimbed. I never quite got round to going back. We rounded off the day with a jog to the top of the Bealach na Ba and back, which after 2400 miles in the car the previous week felt more uphill than it should have.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k6SYqzxk-Nw/T9edPaYdJtI/AAAAAAAAC00/XNAkGbwsssc/s640/glenelg+5.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k6SYqzxk-Nw/T9edPaYdJtI/AAAAAAAAC00/XNAkGbwsssc/s1600/glenelg+5.jpg)
Lovely Font 5, Glen Elg, first ascent.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WDPjsjP8NfU/T9edO2dvrQI/AAAAAAAAC0w/KtPOws6mp7c/s640/glenelg+4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WDPjsjP8NfU/T9edO2dvrQI/AAAAAAAAC0w/KtPOws6mp7c/s1600/glenelg+4.jpg)
Applecross slabs of the best rock on earth
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MAc_t3eBBm8/T9edNiYXGsI/AAAAAAAAC0c/SBfwjY-s8d4/s640/glenelg+3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MAc_t3eBBm8/T9edNiYXGsI/AAAAAAAAC0c/SBfwjY-s8d4/s1600/glenelg+3.jpg)
Mike’s Problem 7C+
As well as enjoying the almost endless new venues (never mind new routes) and repeating other peoples climbs which is a novelty for me sometimes, I'm on the lookout. I know that at some point, in one of the new places, I'll find really amazing lines which are worth getting really obsessed about. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3085130206493533798?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/CZEJfyX4SfQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Slacklines are on sale (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/nJcfkjux68U/slacklines-are-on-sale.html)
13 June 2012, 11:23 am
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/slacklinepro.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/slacklinepro.html) We just halved the price of our slackline sets from £120 to £60. We don’t have many left so if you are keen, best get them in now. Good time of year to have one, I’d say. They are right here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/slacklinepro.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/TipJuice1.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tipjuice.html) We also have Tip Juice back in stock for the worn out skin on your fingers. Although I use this most days myself, I got to give it a real test with daily usage on my hands in the dry alpine climate of Switzerland. For a 2 month bouldering trip I did pretty well to have good enough skin to only use tape once (a serious gouge from the start hold on Mystic Stylez). A tub is £9 and you’ll find it in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tipjuice.html) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5641913107562641170?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/nJcfkjux68U)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Following a good vibe (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/jHBvnGQf2pU/following-good-vibe.html)
13 June 2012, 11:52 am
After returning from my travels I was interested to see how the effects of 2 months bouldering followed by a week and half of sedentary time in the car would affect my fitness on my Steall project. After a couple of sessions, it’s obvious I can pull a few % points harder on the holds. Endurance is pretty poor, but not quite the disaster I expected. After doing Seven of Nine last year (3 months not climbing anything longer than 10 moves) I went to Tunnel Wall and took 3 tries to do Fated Path (a stamina 7c+!). Despite the moves feeling like V-Diff, I just got pumped doing virtually anything. That was a memorably depressing session. Of course it only took four sessions to be able to lap the routes there aerobically and then move back up through the 8s. At the end of my lecture tour I did have just a handful of short but good sessions on endurance. I made a good decision to start on some pretty easy but steep ground and err on the volume side. This seems to have been a good kickstart. After a few of those I managed to get through the crux of Ring of Steall (8c+) again for the first time. Great, but on arriving at the real crux of my project finish, I could only slap uselessly at a tiny crimper I must get static and perfectly. I’ve had two more sessions trying to work on the climb on my own since then. Although there is no dramatic progress to speak of, I know from experience that these sessions do get you closer to making breakthroughs. I’ve learned all sorts of little things about how to do the moves better. Dare I say it, I don’t think my sequence can change a great deal now. So it’s down to 30 move power endurance. Training for the route by trying it sometimes works really well so I’m keen to take advantage of the easterly winds at present and get on it. But It’s not a great route for training on, mainly because the hardest moves are a bit too hard! They only really work if your arms are completely fresh. Ideally a mix of circuits and maybe one session out of three on the route would be right I think. I might even try a bit of power endurance work on the campus board for this. I have a choice really between getting serious about this project and really putting some dedicated work on it, or going to play on other things. Even if I’m on project mode, certain other venues and routes will make good training, and my gut is telling me I’m getting high enough on the route to get serious. I know that my power endurance has never been good, and it would be a great experiment to see what could happen if did train it properly for a spell. It seems pretty clear that the bouldering trip has given me a base of strength that really ought to be enough to make this route possible. It would be crazy not to give it a good shot then. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4693159662003311800?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/jHBvnGQf2pU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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We have a sale on (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/lZ0MrrqQ6ew/we-have-sale-on.html)
13 June 2012, 11:11 pm
Our sale on slacklines has been super popular (we have one set left (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/slacklinepro.html) - be quick), so we decided to run a more general sale in our shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html). It's the first time we've ever done this! We’ll run it for one month and we’ve put some good discounts of 25-50% on roughly half of our products. Worldwide shipping as always and do be on the quick side in case our stock runs out. Here’s what we’ve discounted: (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainheroes.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainheroes.html) Mountain Heroes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainheroes.html) - Lovely and substantial coffee table book of superb and iconic shots of many of the world’s most influential climbers. We sell a lot of these when we run stalls at festivals because as soon as folk pick it up they see it’s a lovely book. We quite often sell them two at a time becuase folk buy it for a gift and then decide to take a personal copy too! Previously £30 (like I said, it’s a big substantial book). On sale at £22.50 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainheroes.html). Folk at lectures often ask me to sign the page with my picture. Just ask in the checkout page if you’d like this. (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/extremealpinism.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/extremealpinism.html) Extreme Alpinism (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/extremealpinism.html) - Mark Twight’s seminal book on techniques and approaches to alpinism. A bit of a bible really. Was £20, now £15 here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/extremealpinism.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Mountainequipmentknittedred.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing) Mountain Equipment Beanies (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing) - Warm, and comfy for anything from bouldering to winter alpinism. On my head about 250 days in the year (OMG!). We have various colours in the branded version and the plain version. Was £15, now £12 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/RockAthlete.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rockathlete.html) Ron Fawcett, Rock Athlete (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rockathlete.html) - Hardback edition of the great man’s autobiography. An interesting time in climbing and always much to learn from characters like Ron. Was £20, now £15 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/rockathlete.html). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hostilehabitats.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hostilehabitats.html) Hostile Habitats (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hostilehabitats.html) - It’s a book that often comes out in conversation with owners of it, since it’s so full of fascinating details about the landscape, flora and fauna of Scotland’s mountain environment. If you are planning to spend your life in these mountains, it is frankly crazy not to make yourself aware of the richness of interest all around you, from geological features to the lichens that colour the rock so beautifully. I first became aware of the book when Tom Prentice appeared above me as I sat on my boulder mat at Dumby, He was taking pictures of the gas pockets in the Basalt I was climbing on. I had no idea they were gas pockets. These days I look at the places I go to in Scotland with a new pair of eyes, and take so much more from being there thanks to the knowledge in the book. Was £17, now £12.75 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hostilehabitats.html). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/players.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/players.html) The Players DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/players.html) - Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Emily Harrington, Daniel Woods, Lisa Rands, Joe Kinder, Alex Puccio, Chris Lindner, and Ethan Pringle. 9as, Font 8cs, E10 trad, Deep water soloing. A ton of great climbing footage and a ton of learning from the best movers on rock. End of. Was £20, now £10 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/players.html). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/northernbeats.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/northernbeats.html) Northern Beats DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/northernbeats.html) - Bernd Zangerl and friends on tour opening new boulders in Norway. Amazing rock, impressive movement, good music. A psyche hit! Was £10, now £5 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/northernbeats.html). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountainmarathon.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainmarathon.html) The Mountain Marathon Book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainmarathon.html) - A hill racer’s bible. If you’re thinking of entering your first hill race, or trying to move up the rankings, it doesn’t make much sense lose out on to make one of the mistakes this book will save you from making. It’s a young sport and this is the first good instructional book on the subject. Was £20, now £15 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/mountainmarathon.html). (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/munrosinwinter.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/munrosinwinter.html) The Munros in Winter (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/munrosinwinter.html) - One way to look at it is ‘it’s a book about hillwalking’. So why is it so inspiring? Well something to note for starters is that it’s author the great North West Highalnds pioneer is now (in his 50s!) one of the best winter climbers in Scotland, regularly hillwalking grade VIII mixed routes and IX if he’s looking for a more serious ‘day on the hill’. This book is about an extra long day on the hill - he got in his van, drove to Scotland and did the first completion of the 277 Munros in a single winter season. I first read it as a 15 year old and was left utterly inspired to explore these mythical corners of the highlands. It’s a much, much better way to learn about these mountains than reading a standard guide book, that’s for sure! A great story about a great effort from the softly spoken man machine. Was £15, now £11.25 here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/munrosinwinter.html).
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-372258401312032631?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/lZ0MrrqQ6ew)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review: Vertical Sailing & Welcome to the Hood (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ALZN1yY4Kl8/review-vertical-sailing-welcome-to-hood.html)
14 June 2012, 9:23 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/betterbouldering.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/betterbouldering.html) We’ve just added three new products in the shop. Vertical Sailing and Welcome to the Hood DVDs, two of my favourite climbing films from the last few months. We also just added the much awaited new edition of John Sherman’s uber book on techniques, tactics and training for bouldering; “Better Bouldering (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/betterbouldering.html)”. I’m definitely bias in being excited to see it since I’m a co-author! I wrote the chapter on training, with some perspectives on gaining strength without turning into the ubiquitous steely youth you see in every bouldering wall who never seems to actually get V-Hard problems done on the real rock. I’ll do a full review shortly but for now let’s just say it’s a five star book and the best dedicated boulderers handbook out there. It’s in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/betterbouldering.html). Vertical Sailing (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/verticalsailing.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/verticalsailing.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/verticalsailing.html) Made by the best adventure big walling partnership on the planet right now’ Nico Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villaneuva & Ben Ditto, this DVD is the most entertaining climbing movie I’ve seen in a good few years. I’ve watched it several times, and in between laughing out loud at the hilarious situations they end up in, I’m awed, inspired and highly jealous of the adventure they take us on. The film starts of in fine style with hilarious team vomiting as Captain Bob Shepton’s tiny yacht sails them through rough waters up the Greenland coast. Over the course of several films, the team have perfected expedition filming like noone else I’ve seen. From the footage you would really think they had a film crew with them. But it’s just that they have it so dialled. Some footage of stunning granite fjords and onsight new routing of 400m E6 6bs follow. But that’s just the warm up for the impossible wall. 1000 metres, great granite, but this isn’t Yosemite. There are grassy cracks that look desperate, fulmars, loose rock days waiting out storms and a ridiculous wet chimney. You would think that footage of a wet greasy overhanging chimney pitch pouring with water would make for a laughable short clip but would be a lot more ‘entertaining’ to climb than to watch. But for me this is probably the highlight of the film. It absolutely captures why we climb routes like this instead of just going on chalked up sport routes all the time. It looks frightening, totally out there, dangerous and apart from all that, unclimbable. So watching Villanueva thrutching his way up it Gore-Texed to the hilt with water everywhere is excellent. Not many films could shoot this sort of terrain and make you wish you were there. There is the usual portaledge partying which the Belgian team have made their trademark. By the end you are left with a feeling that you could go to the most ridiculous corner of the vertical world, climb the most desperate and committing thing you can find and just have nothing but laughs all the way. Most uplifting. And your non-climbing friends could watch and be just as entertained and impressed. It’s in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/verticalsailing.html). Welcome to the Hood (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/welcometothehood.html) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/welcometothehood.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/welcometothehood.html) Fortunately, since bouldering is convenient to film and good cameras like the 5D are so well suited to this sort of filming, we get to see a lot of the worlds best ascents, well filmed often by the climbers themselves. And so it is with this movie of 4 of the strongest in the world just now; Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson, Guntram Joerg and Andy Gullsten. We get to see 8b+s in Font and then over to several Swiss venues. I was particuarly keen to see more from the lesser known venues of Murgtal and Silvretta. I was in Murgtal myself for a session in April and thought it was a lovely place with it’s bouldering potential being rapidly developed right now. The section in Chironico was a great highlight. Interesting as always to watch and learn from the contrast of movement style and strengths of the different guys. Even at their level their styles are quite different. The finale of Woods’ flash of Entlinge 8B+/8C (the hardest bouldering flash in the world to date) is jaw dropping. What a machine. Essential dose of viewing for boulderers. It’s in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/welcometothehood.html). If you didn’t catch my blog post last night we also have just put a good sale on with about half our products discounted by 25-50% for a month. It’s been super popular today and a few things are selling out or getting close to it. So do have a look (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html).
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5232310569517670303?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ALZN1yY4Kl8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Tempting Fate (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ba3azsApQdE/tempting-fate.html)
14 June 2012, 9:54 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b9pXqka1Fyo/T9pcn22dPiI/AAAAAAAAC1U/12P_YclLv5o/s640/P1020743.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-b9pXqka1Fyo/T9pcn22dPiI/AAAAAAAAC1U/12P_YclLv5o/s1600/P1020743.jpg)
Current highpoint on my project at Steall - a horrendous gaston/cross/backhand/fingerlock move to a perfect little edge I have to hit with my fingers and thumb in just the right spot.
In my blog post last night about my recent efforts on my Steall project, I knew that if I said out loud that my sequence wouldn’t couldn’t be improved much, I’d immediately prove myself wrong. And so it was. Today, With fresh body and mind after a seriously needed rest day I found five new bits of of beta which help my sequence. Of course, most of them are small; a change in body position or momentum in the move. But one change in particular might make a significant difference in how consistently I can get to my highpoint. So maybe I can get a little higher sometime soon? I still am two steps (links) away from doing proper redpoints. I have yet to climb from below the Ring of Steall crux to the top. That’s a pretty important link that still feels a good bit away. After that, the next important link is from the ground to two moves higher in the crux than my current best effort. If that ever happens I’ll be on seek and destroy mode immediately. I’m feeling good enough on it to justify keeping on training my endurance on the route, at least for another session. Maybe next week I’ll do some targeted training elsewhere in case I get stale on the route. It’s helping that England is currently getting the chains of rain bearing fronts that we normally get up here right now. Apparently thanks to the Jet stream? In the easterly today it was around 13 degrees at Steall with a 30mph wind. Sticky holds and even the hungriest midge grounded. A good session! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7410197425510035248?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ba3azsApQdE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Confidence materialising? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/E5Otwis3EQ0/confidence-materialising.html)
17 June 2012, 12:28 pm
That’s the fourth session on my project this week, every one with progress to speak of. So I can’t be close to my limit yet. Yesterday I was with Michael instead of alone on my shunt. I made the big step of linking from the start of the Ring of Steall crux to the top of my project. It’s the first time I’ve felt like I was linking on a route instead of doing hard bouldering moves on a rope, if you know what I mean.
I know that to have proper attempts to complete the route, I need to be at a stage where I’m really confident on the moves and don’t feel that they are low percentage. So now I’m getting the Ring of Steall crux static which is good progress. I can’t be fully confident until I’m actually getting highpoints on the headwall above where the route leaves Ring of Steall. Although I’ve got very overlapping halves on the route now, there is still one more big step to make before it’s time to get properly serious. I must get myself through that desperate cross through move.
The other thing is that conditions have been perfect. Yesterday it was 9 degrees on the drive up the glen! Windy too. Warm weather has to come sometime and that might put me back a bit in the coming few weeks. Although I feel strong (for me) and climbing not bad, my power endurance still feels about 50% of what it could be, maybe less. The past week has been great. Totally the right decision to take advantage of relatively midge free windy conditions to get more time and confidence on the route.
Although my more dedicated power endurance training on the circuits has been delayed, it will be all the more useful when I’m finally forced indoors by the weather. If wet or midgy weather comes next week and I have a stint of circuits and runs, I could be in good shape for starting redpoints after that. If conditions stay windy, I have a backup plan of trying a new link up of Fat Groove (8a) into Maxwell’s Demon (8b+) which is pretty much perfect endurance training. It has some good rests so it might be 8b+/8c. I can have two or three good attempts on my project and then get a workout trying the link-up.
Today I can see the midges outside my window as I write (they are after the CO2 from my boiler exhaust!) and the trees are totally still. Board time! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3290803170267029560?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/E5Otwis3EQ0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Old lessons (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AvGmp4jFmDw/old-lessons.html)
20 June 2012, 10:07 am
Yesterdays session at Steall inevitably brought me down to earth a bit with the cold conditions gone it was quite warm and still enough to have a chasing pack of midges on redpoints. So long sleeves and hats were essential even though I was overheating. However, it was still a session of progress. On my project I got through the Ring of Steall again despite it being a little greasy, only to fall again at the crossthrough move. I looked again at it on the rope and with fresh eyes found a completely new way to do the move. I had actually tried the method ages ago but discounted it. I can’t believe I didn’t persevere more with it, because when I found exactly the right position, it took much less power than my old method. Being open about thoroughly exploring different methods on really hard crux moves is a lesson I thought I’d learned a decade ago at Dumbarton. Obviously not. So, feeling like a bit of an idiot, I moved on to getting a workout on the link-up of Fat Groove (8a) into Maxwell’s Demon (8b+). Although it was getting really greasy I got pretty high on the route; to the crux right under the last bolt. Not bad. So my project has thrown me a lifeline to get a little higher. It’s obviously still paying off to train on the route itself since I’m still improving my movement on it. Looks like the forecast after the weekend will dictate some board sessions at last. It will be the right time I think. Time away to work on pure endurance and a change of scenery to refresh the body. This morning it’s time for a rest day jog. The Ben, Carn Mor Dearg and the Aonachs I think. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4930399322581669254?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AvGmp4jFmDw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lack of enzymes (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/D_rHTIih3QQ/lack-of-enzymes.html)
20 June 2012, 8:52 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wBX-xQQCYWk/T-IuLDMtXwI/AAAAAAAAC1k/d2ai4zThV08/s640/glennevis.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wBX-xQQCYWk/T-IuLDMtXwI/AAAAAAAAC1k/d2ai4zThV08/s1600/glennevis.jpg)
Looking down on Glen Nevis from the slope of justice side of Ben Nevis.
Going for a hill run before breakfast has been a fun and not so serious way to get outside on rest days, look at new crags and burn some ‘Jabba’ as they say in Glasgow. However, in order to run on this type of fuel, one needs the right enzymes. Normally it takes a good four or five runs on jelly legs in a cold sweat to build up enough to be able to keep going without liver glycogen eventually getting raided and everything coming crashing to a halt.
But every year I forget that the body needs some time to produce the right biological tools to run without sugar. I didn’t help myself by doing writing work until 4pm either. So I had a sandwich breakfast to ‘prime the pump’ and headed for the slope directly up the side of Ben Nevis above Polldubh. It’s the highest slope in Britain, no path and steep tussocky heather and boulders all the way. So I figured going in a straight line right up it would be a fine way to cancel out a fair number of cakes.
Swimming up through the bracken of the Polldubh crags passed quickly and I go onto the monster slope above, trying to keep a good heart rate. Everything was fine until fairly high on the Ben I got that tell tale all consuming desire to sit down. I’d made another rookie mistake in timing my tunes wrong for dealing with this situation. I was listening to Bridget Kendal’s World of Ideas (http://www.bbc.co.uk/podcasts/series/forum). Great food for the brain but not exactly listening to push you through the lactic barrier. I should have known that this kind of thing is for dancing along ridge tops, and that thrash was made for 1300 metres height gain at near max heart rate.
It’s quite amazing. Without the enzymes to turn fat into ATP, nothing happens. You can keep trying to go up, but when the glycogen tank is empty and the reserve fuel pump is not connected, legs don’t work, simple as that. And so I turned on my heel and slithered down crags and boulders into the mugginess of the Glen far below.
Some calories burned at least, if mostly sugar. And the view and the feeling of being actually hungry for your tea is really nice too.
I also wanted to recce this route for a crazy idea I have. And I answered some questions about it! i.e it's not the way to go! As I ran and felt so unfit, while thinking about how unfit I feel on my Steall project. It became clear to me that endurance is really my nemesis. And since endurance is gone before you can say 'bouldering phase', it's a nemesis that keeps coming back.
It would be easier for sure if Scotland had more steep sustained sport routes to keep me going. But that's not really the issue. The problem is that I've had to spend so much time trying to get stronger fingers to be able to do the moves on the routes I want to do, there isn't much time left over to get fitness. For a few brief moments in my climbing career, I've been faintly stamina fit. But most of the time I grunt my way through on sheer tenacity, pumped solid all the way.
I'm feeling the need to experience that feeling of 'le resistance' again, even if it's only for a a couple of special routes.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6642348058343974650?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/D_rHTIih3QQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Going for a hill run before breakfast has been a fun and not so serious way to get outside on rest days
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It’s the highest slope in Britain, no path and steep tussocky heather and boulders all the way. So I figured going in a straight line right up it
AAAARRGGHHH :sick: :sick: :sick: no surely there cannot be fun in that!!
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Failing higher (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZkoOBRaVvaY/failing-higher.html)
21 June 2012, 8:06 pm
A big jump on my project today. New highpoint three moves higher!!! (yes that does deserve an exclamation for each move). The move I fell from is probably the hardest on the route, but after that one, the climbing eases off to a 12 move sprint of maybe 7c+ to the belay. I’m still just getting fitter on the route and stronger on the moves, increment by increment. This was the last big link to do before it’s time to get serious. And so that’s what I better do. What does that involve? Well, it partly depends on the weather gods, who seem in a grumpy mood. I’ve been blessed with a dry crag and cool conditions for over 2 weeks. Now it’s looking wet. Worst case scenario is I have to take a few weeks of dedicated training on the boards while the route drips. It might be no bad thing. Best case scenario is the the unsettled weather keeps bringing cool winds but not enough rain to start the bogs oozing from above Steall crag. In that case, I could just keep trying and see if the pattern of getting higher continues? I’m not so sure it would. Some circuit time would surely give me an edge, as will more runs, good sleep and rest. So not much has changed except now I know I’m not wasting my time. In good conditions at least, I can now start up the route knowing there is a slim chance I could get through all of those tiny holds and actually get to the top. This is what hard projects are all about. Although I’m partly in the hands of the weather, making that final hurdle from ‘close’ to ‘complete’ is the really difficult and really important step. Anyone can make progress on a project just by showing up with no pressure. But when you know there is a chance it could happen, can you keep making the right moves without feeling the strain and the moment fizzling out. Send me those gale force easterlies please! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3116422149177355528?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZkoOBRaVvaY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Is it just me who feels they already know the outcome to this - the inevitable 'surpising send' when not expected and a new 9a+ which Dave will grade 9a?
Is it just me :shrug:
(apologies this weather could be getting to me)
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Could say the same about most pro-athletes projects and the "journey" they go through (man).
Similarly the video shorts with interviews about how its all about the joy of movement and being in such great places. Yeah, we all know that, thats why we climb ourselves, now get on with the climbing.
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Is it just me who feels they already know the outcome to this - the inevitable 'surpising send' when not expected and a new 9a+ which Dave will grade 9a?
Is it just me :shrug:
(apologies this weather could be getting to me)
I agree, i'd put my last pair of Teams on it. Success is instilled in the man
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Is it just me who feels they already know the outcome to this - the inevitable 'surpising send' when not expected and a new 9a+ which Dave will grade 9a?
Is it just me :shrug:
(apologies this weather could be getting to me)
LOL, spot on!
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Wet season training (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ccFxeOV9YWE/wet-season-training.html)
13 July 2012, 9:51 am
If you’re reading from the UK you don’t need me to tell you the weather has been grim. The rain has been one thing, although you can usually get round that in Scotland given our abundance of steep crags which aren’t seepy limestone. High humidity and light winds (i.e. Midge weather) have been the stopper. Actually, our rain has been very light and although there haven't been too many lovely days, the crags are in general very dry.
I could go cragging I guess, which might be good for the head. But it doesn’t feel like the right thing to do for some reason. Training feels right, or at least did feel right.
I have been doing my circuits night after night. Some strange things are going on though which I can’t put my finger on. I’m definitely getting less pumped per circuit. I’m even getting a reasonable amount done. Yet for some reason, I don’t ‘feel’ fit.
When warming up I’m feeling rough and starting from a low base. And even once I’m going I feel heavy. I’m guessing it’s just one of those periods you have to go through every so often. So I’ll carry right on, until my body decides to wake up to the message that I need it to get fitter and stronger.
To be fair, I do have a hunch that I was actually losing fitness when I was having all those sessions at Steall just on the one route. I’ve had that before and it can be quite marked. So I probably am starting from a low base! It’s quite early days too - 2 or 3 weeks on plastic after a long time away from it. So maybe I shouldn’t be so surprised that it feels like a bit of a shock to the system.
We’ll see how things go for another couple of weeks and if the conditions are still poor for Steall I’ll decide whether it’s best to train more or go out and do some trad new routes. My bias will definitely be to train more. Doing trad new routes is always what I do in summer and although I love it, it might be a nice time to do something different and really make a 100% effort to do the hardest piece of climbing I’ve done.
There’s no doubt that there will be good conditions at some point during July and August. But even if it takes until September, at least I’ll have some endurance to speak of! When deciding like this I guess you have to really weigh up what success on the project would mean for you. For me, it would be the most important climb I’ve ever done (quite apart from being the hardest for me personally since it’s not my style). It would be such a great milestone to move on to something fresh.
Quite a strong argument to train like hell.. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5638810659196631117?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ccFxeOV9YWE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Out jogging (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/gzfKBY4O8Eg/out-jogging.html)
14 July 2012, 11:09 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yzhXmtBsXJg/T__wKv215fI/AAAAAAAAC2I/xHfTRyRsXwE/s640/IMG_0925.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yzhXmtBsXJg/T__wKv215fI/AAAAAAAAC2I/xHfTRyRsXwE/s1600/IMG_0925.jpg)
Looking back down the lower slopes of Leitir Fhionnlaigh, my house near the bottom right and Meall na Teanga across Loch Lochy.
I rounded off yesterday’s rest day with a jog in the hills around my house. Straight out of my back garden I can go straight up with a continuously steep slope to 600m altitude. If I go at high heart rate up this it’s a good primer to burn some glycogen and then go for a cruise along the ridge at the top. Actually it’s not really a cruise at all thanks to the huge peat troughs lining the plateau above the leitir. Every ten metres or so you jump 6 or 8 feet down into a trough and jump and commando roll back up the opposite wall. So it’s a bit of an assault course! All quite good fun, especially in the rain. Getting cold, wet, muddy and burning some energy at a fast pace. Since I’ve not had too many mountain cliff days out so far this summer, I’m keen to do some more runs to keep me in shape. Generally my preference is for fasted long distance hill runs at a gentle pace for 2-6 hours. It is sometimes hard to find time to fit them in though, especially when I’m doing endurance work in my climbing training so I’m doing wall circuits every day and need to be careful to eat lots to fuel the work. I could probably manage to time it well to do both and indeed I might be getting fit enough now to start experimenting with that. Ideally I’d run pretty much all morning, then work, then eat, then climb. My biggest limitation for making it happen is probably disciplining myself to go to bed early. I do find that it’s nice to have some late evening relaxation time after training and family time during the day. Plus, being a night owl it’s all too easy to stay up late. I need a coach to remind me how important it is to get some rest. I’ve spent a lot of the past years on 6 or 7 hours sleep a night which for me just isn’t enough to progress in my sport. The ideal amount would be 10 hours. For that I’d need to be well disciplined! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8762795820199787479?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/gzfKBY4O8Eg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Another Steall milestone. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HvKzBCRJ1mA/another-steall-milestone.html)
14 July 2012, 11:18 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0PqaldQRRaI/T__wKg8fXUI/AAAAAAAAC2E/v1nnoEPzS2U/s640/IMG_3509.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0PqaldQRRaI/T__wKg8fXUI/AAAAAAAAC2E/v1nnoEPzS2U/s1600/IMG_3509.jpg)
Michael gears up for another scrap with Steallworker (8b), a cloud of midges above. Get tied in, whirr your jacket around a few times to disperse the midge pack, rip the bag off your head and go!
The other day I completed a new 8b+/c at Steall. ‘Irn Age’ climbs pretty much all of The Fat Groove (8a) to the roofed groove and then pulls right to climb pretty much all of Maxwell’s Demon (8b+). Although it has two no-hands rests on it low down, it’s still a good test of stamina and a mega trip up the crag with a tough finale. I certainly felt I needed to be quite fresh for the crux of Maxwell’s Demon which is right up near the last bolt after 35 metres of climbing. After I got a nice sequence on the crux I did think Irn Age would be 8b+ and Maxwell’s Demon could actually be 8b. But Michael pointed out that it is way harder than any of the 8b+s or even the 8c’s I’ve done abroad. A classic case of a route feeling easy when you do it. Too many of the routes at Steall are my own and there’s noone repeating the harder ones them despite attempts, so I don’t have much info to go on to figure out what grade everything might be. Moving on... Finally I can feel the effects of my circuits in my arms, climbing The Fat Groove without getting a pump and actually recovering on the better holds high on the route. Although it’s obviously miles easier than my 9a project just to the right, it’s still a confidence booster that these routes can go despite wet holds, bad weather and the odd midge. I’ve put in the hours on my harder project, so I have the moves really smooth. I’m feeling 85% there fitness wise. But I think the real issue might come down to conditions. Last week I had a brief go on it again and just couldn’t even hang the two crux edges. Unless it’s cold and windy the tiny crystals just cut my skin. The northerlies of this week have turned out to be way too weak to be of any use at Steall. So there are still some hurdles, but I’m making enough progress to want to keep at it for now. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6632554669286622156?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HvKzBCRJ1mA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Raasay recce (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fnMYHRQOx6c/raasay-recce.html)
14 July 2012, 11:47 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x37jdFWU1sk/T__wL4IuNuI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/8ukkgtEmCJA/s640/IMG_3546.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x37jdFWU1sk/T__wL4IuNuI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/8ukkgtEmCJA/s1600/IMG_3546.jpg)
100 metres high, the grey stuff is good sandstone, and it goes on for miles along the coast. Running out of new rock in the UK? Aye...
For ages Michael and myself have been keen to go and look at the huge Triassic sandstone cliffs on the east coast of Raasay and scope out what potential there might be. After a hard day at Steall we decided now was a good time for a day trip and sped up there.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WXVbhY0LvCQ/T__wK8mvu5I/AAAAAAAAC2M/pWzDk7xMTqQ/s640/IMG_3523.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WXVbhY0LvCQ/T__wK8mvu5I/AAAAAAAAC2M/pWzDk7xMTqQ/s1600/IMG_3523.jpg)
First up we checked out this huge slot of Sandstone. Beautiful rock formations and good stone. But maybe a little too sheltered to get dry enough very often. I could be wrong though. You’d get some lovely E8 and upwards 25 metre solos in here, or some great sport routes! Then we headed along the lovely coast past Screapadal and the now long abandoned crofting communities that existed in this remote spot. As we expected, there was a TON of rock. Towering sandstone cliffs over 100 metres high with only a handful of the very easiest lines climbed, and the slope below covered in countless boulders. (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iG00JcADYU/T__wMCwAxRI/AAAAAAAAC2g/1Ds0FFEyFYI/s640/IMG_3550.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_iG00JcADYU/T__wMCwAxRI/AAAAAAAAC2g/1Ds0FFEyFYI/s1600/IMG_3550.jpg)
Mega boulder, 20 metres high. Unfortunately made of cheese.
Both the cliff and boulders were a little dissapointing on closer inspection. The main face routes would make one of the best sport cliffs in Scotland, or some death defying barely protected trad which didn’t really inspire me too much (maybe it’s just not St John’s Head?!). We spent ages looking round the boulders finding countless problems in the V0-V3 range that looked great, but not much for ourselves. But finally we stumbled upon one line that changed our psyche - the biggest, baddest Font 7c/+ roof in Scotland! (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yA-xe95Sfo/T__wMs-8_1I/AAAAAAAAC2o/J45GcjQ1jTE/s640/IMG_3572.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5yA-xe95Sfo/T__wMs-8_1I/AAAAAAAAC2o/J45GcjQ1jTE/s1600/IMG_3572.jpg)
It looked simply awesome. But we were now counting down to run for the ferry time. The landing was full of big holes so we moved rocks for an hour and built a mega landing. I got the holds clean and moves done rapidly and then looked at my phone; we should have left 20 minutes ago to catch the last ferry! There was time for one try. (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1id1znm4io/T__wNJIQhZI/AAAAAAAAC2w/sOQxAAYSbB4/s640/IMG_3578.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V1id1znm4io/T__wNJIQhZI/AAAAAAAAC2w/sOQxAAYSbB4/s1600/IMG_3578.jpg)
It was 22 moves long, pretty techy and a little scary at the end. I unfortunately caught a hold wrong near the end and didn’t get it. I cursed, but there was nothing to do but scrabble to get trainers on and spend the next 30 minutes running at 180bpm to catch the ferry, which we did. So there is something to go back for. I’m glad in a way. It’s such a lovely piece of rock, and although I’m pretty sure I can do it in an attempt or two, It’ll be worth the day trip to enjoy it properly...and then try the left hand exit. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7855007624999491176?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fnMYHRQOx6c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Nevis breakfast, again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/dpoEj11ZlYs/nevis-breakfast-again.html)
17 July 2012, 9:30 pm
Finally needing a climbing rest day I went for another fasted run before breakfast. The weather was fine so I opted for Ben Nevis, straight up the slope from the Glen Nevis road end in a brutally steep glycogen burning continuous climb straight to the summit. Going as fast as I could, I could start to feel the glycogen tank emptying after only 45 minutes, motivation to keep slogging dying off and being replaced by a strong desire to lie down and sleep.
Having a few of these runs in the bag recently is meaning I can now keep going a fair bit better once the tank is empty and I’m making glucose out of body fat. The next 45 minutes to the summit felt predictably hard work, but some good tunes got me through it and all of a sudden strolling over the plateau to the observatory.
I sat down in the cool breeze among the crowd of summitteers, for a few minutes. I couldn’t stay though, I was pretty damn hungry and the sound of many sandwiches being munched all around me was deafening. Get moving! My legs felt worked but were still strong to bounce back down the boulderfields in a good run and off into Coire Gubishean and onto to upper Steall. Running through Steall I could really feel I was burning fat and stopping running even for a moment to clamber over rocks on jelly legs gave me an overwhelming urge to lie down. So I cruised on happily down the familiar path back to my car and an egg roll in town.
Today, I’m 34. Birthday itinerary: Swimming with the girls, book writing, feeding midges at Steall.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-798930451082684080?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/dpoEj11ZlYs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mystic Stylez 8C video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/T-700EHdz_o/mystic-stylez-8c-video.html)
24 July 2012, 6:51 pm
Video of me doing the repeat of Daniel Woods problem Mystic Stylez in Switzerland a couple of months ago. The clip comes from the Polished Project’s film about my reflections on climbing which is on the way. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-341805354505678588?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/T-700EHdz_o)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Does anyone else think the canera angle is a bit odd? you can't really see the problem
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Similar comments on the QBV thread when it was posted there.
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I'm amused that he managed to swap shoes and take of his top mid crux 8)
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Similar comments on the QBV thread when it was posted there.
QBV?
just weird as it is a reasonable sized bouldered and the view of it is not restricted by any adjacent rocks
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Quality Bouldering Videos. Sorry, thought it would be obv.
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Quality Bouldering Videos. Sorry, thought it would be obv.
obv. ? :clown:
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Quality Bouldering Videos. Sorry, thought it would be obv.
obv. ? :clown:
Obvious Bouldering Videos
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:lol: very quick. :clap2:
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Quality Bouldering Videos. Sorry, thought it would be obv.
obv. ? :clown:
Well done for spotting the obv. joke there slackers.
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You're just too smart for me Chris. :-*
Personally I can't stand acronyms, they're heavily used here at work and people seem to expect you to just magically know what they stand for, placing an onus on the reader/listener to decipher them on the fly. It also ignores the wonderfully rich and descriptive language(s) that humans have developed to communicate effectively with each other.
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STFU.
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:sorry: you've lost me there. :tease:
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Personally I can't stand acronyms, they're heavily used here at work and people seem to expect you to just magically know what they stand for, placing an onus on the reader/listener to decipher them on the fly. It also ignores the wonderfully rich and descriptive language(s) that humans have developed to communicate effectively with each other.
What a nice story.
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I thought so, thats why I decided to share it with you and the rest of the internet. :tease:
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The only bit of the video that I liked are the close ups on Dave's face, showing him deep into his world made of "I see it, I try it, I crush it".
Must be hard being unable to fail.
I wonder how he keeps his psyche.
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The only bit of the video that I liked are the close ups on Dave's face, showing him deep into his world made of "I see it, I try it, I crush it".
Must be hard being unable to fail.
I wonder how he keeps his psyche.
I wonder which is harder on the psyche, that or this - http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/fa-of-der-mit-dem-fels-tanzt-8c/ (http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/moon-blog/bouldering/fa-of-der-mit-dem-fels-tanzt-8c/).
I'm not sure I could maintain the psyche in either case....
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;D
Martin is a beast.
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Caldera crags (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/b1kr66h1Qes/caldera-crags.html)
25 July 2012, 8:17 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jT-VOmbcdF4/UA52WbOvcfI/AAAAAAAAC3c/S-JVIWx_gf0/s640/P1020947.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jT-VOmbcdF4/UA52WbOvcfI/AAAAAAAAC3c/S-JVIWx_gf0/s1600/P1020947.jpg)
Kev checking out some future very scary granite slab climbs on Ben Nevis On the outer rim of the Ben Nevis volcanic caldera is a ring of granite surrounding it’s andesite centre. The granite is the stuff that gently baked the mica schist of Glen Nevis, giving it it’s honeycomb texture that makes it so great to climb. But not much of the granite is exposed as crags unfortunately. I’ve often passed small outcrops of the stuff on various approaches to the Ben and thought it would be nice to find a good crag or boulder made of this stuff since it’s some of the nicest rough granite I’ve ever seen. One place I kept meaning to look were the obvious slabs high on the slopes of the Ben, directly above the car park for Steall. I say high - they only look high because of the savage slope leading up to them. They are actually only about 6/700m altitude. On last week’s run I went past one of them and found an immaculate 15 metre slab of granite with four routes to do on it and an even bigger slab above. Two lines in particular stood out as the best gritstone style E7/8 slab climbs I’ve seen. A bit like the classic Cairngorm E7 ‘Firestone’ but with even better rock. Kev and myself couldn’t resist checking them out and so we slogged up and had a play on them. As suspected, a pair of fantastic but very bold climbs to be done there. An E7 6b and E8 6c. Something to go back to when feeling rather confident. If I'd remembered my helmet, the E7 line may just have got an ascent. But probably best to have to go back with a strong mind anyway.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5qWZ-pZnhTA/UA53nRh-6TI/AAAAAAAAC3o/cvfs0FBkk9Q/s640/P1020956.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5qWZ-pZnhTA/UA53nRh-6TI/AAAAAAAAC3o/cvfs0FBkk9Q/s1600/P1020956.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4173118744532294646?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/b1kr66h1Qes)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Triassic boulders on Raasay (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TKwuuXtXs6I/triassic-boulders-on-raasay.html)
25 July 2012, 8:17 pm
The most I knew of Raasay was Sorley MacLean’s famous and rather haunting poem ‘Hallaig’ (http://www.sorleymaclean.org/english/poems_list.htm#H) in Martyn Bennett’s album Bothy Culture. It brings alive a sense of the ancient and now abandoned remote communities across the island and how what seems like remote exploring for us today was once home to generations of MacLeods and Macleans until the Highland clearances. I especially liked these lines; Between the Leac and Fearns
the road is under mild moss
and the girls in silent bands
go to Clachan as in the beginning, and return from Clachan,
from Suisnish and the land of the living;
each one young and light-stepping,
without the heartbreak of the tale. (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6H2-AjYhaw/UA72T8CMNXI/AAAAAAAAC34/ttnY60LRIMM/s640/IMG_3582.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6H2-AjYhaw/UA72T8CMNXI/AAAAAAAAC34/ttnY60LRIMM/s1600/IMG_3582.jpg)
Approaching the crux of Screapadal Prow 7C+ After last week’s recce with Michael I returned to finish the giant prow. Both of us were very excited just to climb on it, whether we succeeded or not. It’s a mega piece of climbing and one of the best lines of it’s grade in the country for sure. I cleaned an extended start first of all - a 30 move F8c route to come back to. Then I set about the standard start; still 23 moves with the crux being the last few. After one go I reassessed my initial estimate up to at least Font 7c+. Tired and a bit worn down from a long week of training, I knew I could only have three good goes, which were all lost to various footwork disasters. “What an amateur!” One of these ended painfully in a hole full of razor sharp blocks adjacent to the 5 mats we brought. Sporting my war wounds, I messed up the tired 4th go as well. Oh well, next trip it is then… (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n00ZCSLZfgo/UA72rrOD0hI/AAAAAAAAC4A/hvs8nXN8MuM/s640/IMG_3611.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n00ZCSLZfgo/UA72rrOD0hI/AAAAAAAAC4A/hvs8nXN8MuM/s1600/IMG_3611.jpg)
Michael working the moves The last go was the formality, just to finish me off. I didn’t think I’d even drag my expended arms to the crux. But of course, on this try I managed not to make any mistakes, and leapt for that finishing jug with full commitment. The walk back seemed even more scenic. A classic not to be missed if you climb the grade and you like exploratory Scottish climbing. Doing a new climb here is something special. It’s not the same as a good session at your local crag, or down the wall. For me it’s an order of magnitude different. It’s an experience that really does inspire and last. The distance to go there, and the risk of wasting a day or two in the rain is nothing compared to what you have to gain if you get to walk this coastline past Screapadal and the sandstone towers and find amazing lines hidden between a jungle of rocks, some unclimbably soft, some perfect. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7848217122620816711?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/TKwuuXtXs6I)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A scary lead on the Caldera slabs (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HEYM4VswboA/a-scary-lead-on-caldera-slabs_27.html)
27 July 2012, 10:10 pm
Eyeing up the crux, no going back now. Pallor E7 6b first ascent on the Caldera slabs, Ben Nevis.
Since my elbows finally got healthy last autumn, I’ve been on a mission to get strong and fit after three years unable to really train. I’ve been unleashing my keenness mainly the bouldering and sport climbing disciplines and although I’m still only part way through the process of getting where I want to be, I’ve had some good milestones. Part of a grand plan? Well sort of. Partly I’ve just missed pulling really hard on holds at my limit and now on a year long indulgence! But partly I know that to build my climbing to another level it has to start with bouldering, then sport climbing, then I’ll have a good foundation to do something good on trad.
With all this building a new base line I’ve not really climbed an unprotected trad route for ages. In fact I can’t really remember the last time. Yesterday we went to the Granite slab. I was just going to belay Kev and have a play on the routes. But I still took my helmet and a pair of jeans, in case.
In the end, I decided I might as well lead the first project on the slab. It feels rather hard for E7 given the height and absence of gear, but climbs just a little too easily to be happy to give it E8. So E7. I clipped some cams three moves up to stop my body rolling to the car park if I did decide to fall off and headed upwards.
In the absence of recent trad experience I fluctuated in and out of the right mindset, having conversations with myself and becoming distracted (relatively speaking of course!), then popping back into the flow for a few moves. Thankfully I flowed properly at the crux and watched myself carefully smear through and creep my fingers onto the finishing ledge. It was nice to remember why I do bold trad. It’s a demanding passion but excellent when you make the investment to do it right.
I wondered if the good vibe would help me on my Steall project today. It didn’t. I wasted a fine chance with a belayer and a cold wind by fumbling the same move on two consecutive attempts and failing to get back to my highpoint. I can climb it in overlapping halves every session and nearly every try and even in not so great conditions. I’ve been here before - 95% good enough but exhausted all the easy channels of progress. I think I’ve hit a wall. My patience for acting like an amateur has run out. It’s time I got to grips with addressing the hard components influencing my performance that I’ve been avoiding.
Kev working on the line, Steall gorge behind. Nice place eh? Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-6716097738883037608?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HEYM4VswboA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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More progress on my project (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/QtXD0BbB_WM/more-progress-on-my-project.html)
5 August 2012, 1:05 pm
Conditions have been dry enough for another 2 sessions on my Steall project albeit in the heat and more than a few midges. Objectively, they were pretty good and still showing progress. Diminishing progress, but still progress and as good as I could expect. On the first session overlapping halves more consistently than before, and then overlapping halves for my warm-up once. I ought to be happy with the progress but it’s hard not to balance this against restlessness that such good links and feeling strong on the moves doesn’t translate to getting any higher from the ground yet.
All of this renews my respect for the route. On some attempts I did notice a ‘head problem’ creeping in that I was feeling the inevitability of how I was likely to get on in the attempt. That usually means it’s time to take another tack. I’m 95% there. I can see I don’t have much to do, but not much more to give either. My endurance training has worked well and I’m not really feeling pumped when I fall, just ‘powered out’. It seems maybe my strength to weight ratio is just not quite there.
So I’m stepping up the attack on both sides of the ratio with a beefed up fingerboarding routine, using a 10kg weight belt to up the intensity and decrease volume on my circuits and a very organised diet which isn’t something I do often. I tend to ‘train heavy’ most of the time since my somatotype is heavy, and only get slim when It’s totally clear it will be worth it. The main reason is that it’s logistically difficult to balance a routine of hard climbing and training without running into various problems of underfuelled training, injuries, illness etc. But in the short term it works really well.
Fingers crossed for the route be dry enough to get a try or two next week. I definitely feel that working on it and feeling strong in bad conditions might still set me up to be in a really great position if we get some cold and windy weather sometime.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-116726476038107273?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/QtXD0BbB_WM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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I tend to ‘train heavy’ most of the time since my somatotype is heavy, and only get slim
Balls. By any normal standards you're as slim as a slim thing.
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Beastmakers in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vqPnOa04ajM/beastmakers-in-shop.html)
5 August 2012, 11:31 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bm2XfRyFxys/UB5t-B5ZCbI/AAAAAAAAC5I/4RAnl-BNxaA/s640/IMG_3815.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bm2XfRyFxys/UB5t-B5ZCbI/AAAAAAAAC5I/4RAnl-BNxaA/s1600/IMG_3815.jpg)
Since this site is one of the main places on the web to get information about training for climbing and our shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html) sells all the best books on the matter, it was about time we started selling some of the best training equipment too. So priority number one was to get hold of the best fingerboards on the market right now; the Beastmakers.
Designed by Font 8b+ boulderers and made out of rather lovely skin friendly wood, their design is clearly a labour of love and that is why they have become so popular in the UK. Oh, and they make your fingers strong. Well, owning one isn’t enough on it’s own. It’s the numbers of hangs clocked up that get makes the jumps in grades we all want. But having a well designed and skin friendly hangboard is a good first step. I started fingerboarding in summer 2005 just after I first tried Rhapsody. At the time I was climbing F8b and the odd 8b+ and about 8A on boulders. After a solid summer doing my deadhangs most days I got back on the sport climbs in the autumn and was blown away to discover I could now climb 8c. The following year I did Rhapsody and the year after that my first 9a.
That raw finger strength was obviously the ingredient that propelled me forward to grades I never thought I’d get to. There are of course many young strong lads I’ve seen and coached in walls up and down the UK who would wipe the floor with me on a hangboard yet can’t climb nearly as hard outside, since power is nothing without technique. And technique is just as hard won as finger strength.
So every climber needs to have a balance between learning technique and learning to pull hard. However, every climber who spends any time training or aspiring to harder grades should have and use a fingerboard. And if they are going to own any one, a Beastmaker is a pretty good choice.
We are stocking both the 1000 (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/beastmaker1000.html) and 2000 (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/beastmaker2000.html) models. The 1000 is designed with those new to training in mind (Font 5-7C) and the 2000 is a better choice for those already used to bouldering walls and basic strength equipment (7C-8C). They cost £75 with our normal £1.50 shipping. Shipping to Europe and the rest of the world are at normal Royal Mail rates. Get hanging and get strong. The 1000 is here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/beastmaker1000.html) and the 2000 is here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/beastmaker2000.html).
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5ctN9BAjl0/UB5t-2Jxa3I/AAAAAAAAC5Q/G825u2yiqB4/s640/IMG_3820.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q5ctN9BAjl0/UB5t-2Jxa3I/AAAAAAAAC5Q/G825u2yiqB4/s1600/IMG_3820.jpg)
The Milo of Croton (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milo_of_Croton) school of training with Freida MacLeod. I wonder how long I can still manage this?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RcI-9BJ3Jkc/UB5t-Te0hVI/AAAAAAAAC5M/CYtSVYMm_bM/s640/IMG_3816.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RcI-9BJ3Jkc/UB5t-Te0hVI/AAAAAAAAC5M/CYtSVYMm_bM/s1600/IMG_3816.jpg)
Freida getting started with some assisted hangs
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2819641624525300875?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vqPnOa04ajM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Getting out of a hole (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Z__E9f4Imvc/getting-out-of-hole.html)
7 August 2012, 9:28 pm
So, I’m close to my project, but close is nowhere. If I had a run of cold windy days, I could see it happening. But It’s August, the wind is set in coming from the humid south, and so it’s not happening. The Steall midges are very well fed on my blood and I’m only getting the same highpoint and more and more frustrated and restless.
What to do? Sure I could just keep at it. Motivation is not a problem. Call me a mad man, but I don’t really care how many midge bites I get or how long it takes. My will is much stronger than a few thousand tiny midges. Another day of overheated redpoints in long sleeve top and midge hood might wont send me over the edge, but there are other issues. I don’t want to get too used to having bad sessions and forget to try really hard when good conditions come along. Also, climbing on the same route too much isn’t so good for the body. I’m waking up stiff and sore when I ought to be fine.
So the coaches prescription is to go and do something else for a bit. Keeping going in the current crap weather might be too risky for injury and the negative mental aspects might overtake physical strength gains.
Tomorrow I’ll see where the mood takes me and try something new.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8547114105186045313?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Z__E9f4Imvc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Steall path appeal (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9TJyzyrhoKo/steall-path-appeal.html)
24 August 2012, 10:24 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8RvZtGxN61M/UDdVbJd7FHI/AAAAAAAAC5s/ignzLBJH66M/s640/Steall+gorge.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8RvZtGxN61M/UDdVbJd7FHI/AAAAAAAAC5s/ignzLBJH66M/s1600/Steall+gorge.jpg)
A while ago on Twitter I mentioned that the Steall Gorge path in Glen Nevis had been entered into a vote based competition to win £25,000 of funding for restoration and upgrading. I asked you guys to make a couple of mouse clicks and vote. Thanks for that - it won and was awarded the money!
However, making a proper upgrade to a path like that (cutting through a very steep rocky gorge) does take a fair bit of money to undertake the full scale of work the John Muir Trust (the landowner) wants to make. So they are trying to raise a further £60,000 to do the job properly and fully upgrade the path. I’m sure many of you guys have been through the Steall Gorge and know that it deserves a well constructed path (it gets a lot of use!) and that folk do have bad accidents there from time to time. The good news is £42K of the shortfall has already been raised.
If you want to help them secure the remaining £18K, donate here (http://www.jmt.org/appeal.asp). It’s an easy process. I completed it in about two minutes. If everyone of you who regularly reads my blog over a a few days donated £1, it would be in the bag. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3776214282013291065?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/9TJyzyrhoKo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Higher highpoint, out of time (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/QALqUC0uykE/higher-highpoint-out-of-time.html)
24 August 2012, 10:37 am
After the frustrations of not feeling good enough to get through the crux of my Steall project, I took a small break from it which consisted of some diligent training, family time and writing some more of my book. I could probably have taken more time doing those things, but the prospect of some better conditions and a trip away getting imminent demanded going back up for another couple of sessions.
On one session, when it was still feeling a bit hot and windless, I couldn’t even do one of the moves in isolation. I lowered off and felt pretty dejected. I was practically ready to leave it until next season. When it was my turn to climb again, I went for another go as a formality. A small breeze started up at the same time as I did. The holds instantly felt stickier and next thing I knew I landed the last of the crux moves.
I soldiered on in extremis for a few more moves before falling, completely pumped, from the last really difficult move at the last bolt. That was a real eye opener. For one, I learned that conditions matter even more than I would ever have given credit. To go from unable to do single moves, to almost succeeding on linking the whole thing in the same session, because of a few gusts of wind is a massive effect.
Second, I learned for the first time that the route is definitely possible for me. I think If I could replicate that effort a few more times, I’d struggle through to the belay one time. After that session, I must admit that a wave of utter determination to try my best to finish it came over me.
However, maybe that was my best effort, and I’ll not be able to match it before the autumn monsoon? I’ll find out. It doesn’t matter really. I’m just pleased to know I’m not wasting my time trying the project. Next session, I held the last crux move again but sadly my foot slipped straight afterwards. A good sign of consistency.
I battled on for a couple more sessions in crap conditions, hot, humid, still and midgy. I still got really close even in those conditions. I had a sick feeling in my stomach that the temperature would drop and and wind would arrive just after I ran out of time before leaving, and that’s exactly what happened. So I am a coiled spring, and will somehow have to try and keep my powder dry for a while. I must admit I'm struggling with that more than I ever have right now. I suppose that's inevitable since it's biggest project I've ever tried. The likelihood is that I’ll be back again next spring for another scrap, unless I’m lucky and late September is dry enough to keep the seeps at bay.
Of course I’m well pleased to have got as high on it as I have. I’ve certainly put in a lot of work, both at the crag and in training and really feel stronger for it. On my last attempt of one session, I climbed the lower section in full knowledge I was too tired to have a serious shot at the upper crux. As I climbed through the first crux (Ring of Steall 8c+) I took my hand off to reach for the hold, felt tired and hesitantly went to grab the quickdraw and end the attempt and then changed my mind and carried on reaching, statically. When I did the first ascent of Ring of Steall in 2007 getting through that move was the hardest link I’d ever done and now I can do it nearly every attempt in decent conditions. At that time I couldn’t have imagined doing the move statically. I’ve really realised that I have so much room to step up my training and effort level yet. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7725487166987675272?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/QALqUC0uykE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A good run (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eyCCyfYYa1Q/a-good-run.html)
13 September 2012, 7:43 pm
While in Magic Wood, waiting for boulders to dry out, I decided to go for a couple of jogs to keep trim. I found a nice track that led up into the mountains in steep zig zags from 1300m to over 1900m, above the tree line and into a lovely open mountain corrie. On the first outing, it was super humid and felt like hard work. I walked a few sections, but I sensed that the uphill running was beginning to feel close to ‘steady state’. So a few days later I did it again on a much nicer day and got on much better.
I ran over 600m altitude gain in 36 minutes without stopping to walk which is the first time I think I’ve ever run so far uphill in one push. The interesting thing was that I did the run after eating lunch (I’d had 4 hours bouldering in the morning). Normally if I ever run I do it after the overnight fast to get into fat oxidation quicker. The difference was quite amazing! I know that’s rather obvious but it was still quite something to experience it. Instead of feeling like a motivational mission, it felt pretty easy. Moreover, after the harder steep sections I could feel my legs wanting to run faster as soon as the angle decreased again. I guess habitual runners must be used to that feeling but it’s nice for an amateur to feel it even once.
I remember reading when I started climbing that Messner, in training for the first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978, 'claimed' to be able to run 1000m uphill in 35 minutes. So I’m officially 3/5ths as fit as Messner. Im not sure whether to laugh or cry.
Perhaps I put in some training for my enchainment idea after all?
I wrote some ideas about mental strategies for motivating yourself to run uphill on the training blog here. (http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/running-uphill-3-mental-strategies.html)
In conversation with... Reinhold Messner (http://vimeo.com/28348952) from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT (http://vimeo.com/mountainequipment) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/). Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-974943782242102634?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/eyCCyfYYa1Q)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Waiting for Autumn (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HGN8jKw3RXE/waiting-for-autumn.html)
13 September 2012, 8:00 pm
While I have been waiting for the summer to come to an end and the season for climbing on small holds to begin, I’ve been trying to sort some things out. To be honest, I’ve been feeling a bit fed up with how the summer has gone. Having said that, the battles have been enjoyable. I could so easily have had very different results on a couple of hard projects had conditions been right at the right moment. But it didn’t happen. I particularly thought on quite a few attempts that I was going to get my Steall project. On reflection though, I don’t feel I really did enough to deserve it just yet. Also I went to look at a couple of cliffs I hoped would have another great hard trad new route for me, but they were a bit disappointing. Outside of climbing, I have written a lot of book which is good although much work remains and progress has been rather slow.
I signed another three year contract with Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/home.asp) which is really great and gives me an opportunity to keep pushing myself in my climbing. I have been thinking a lot about my training going into the colder months and what moves to make next. This summer has been the first that I haven’t felt my fingers getting stronger. I know that it’s down to just going climbing on physically ‘easy’ trad routes for a long time and not doing any training since my elbows weren’t up to it. Already I’m noticing some small gains since I’ve been healthy and able to start basic strength work again. But my body is feeling like it will take some time to get used to strength training again.
After speaking at the St Anton festival in Austria last week I had a few days in Magic Wood. The objective was just to pull hard on powerful crimpy moves as much as possible before going back to Scottish projects. It’s just as well, since the conditions were pretty bad. After a few days moping about looking at wet projects and climbing damp boulders, there was one day of decent conditions. I could do Darkness to Sunshine (8A/+) quickly and then worked on some harder things without success. I spent an hour or so trying Remembrance of Things Past (8B+) which is exactly the opposite of my climbing strengths. There’s not a lot of opportunity to lean on technique and get weight on your feet, but raw finger strength is the order of the day. It was still quite wet but I could see I probably would struggle to do it even in good conditions. On the other hand, the moves didn’t feel impossible so I don’t think a huge gain in strength to weight ratio would be needed to manage this level. I’d love to try this again sometime after a winter back on the fingerboard.
I super motivated for this season to get back into basic strength training and see what possibilities it opens up. I’ve also spent a lot of time recently reading to expanding my knowledge of sports nutrition and feel like I’ve learned a lot there with much potential to do the hardest stage - putting new knowledge into practice. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5676448261648484071?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HGN8jKw3RXE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fight the Feeling (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7GEPqRQqPXQ/fight-feeling.html)
24 September 2012, 1:01 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-73dIloy2G_Y/UF-eaJP854I/AAAAAAAAC6I/zLLFIEk4jSo/s1600/2012-09-21_Dave_Macleod_Steall-_MG_2660.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-73dIloy2G_Y/UF-eaJP854I/AAAAAAAAC6I/zLLFIEk4jSo/s1600/2012-09-21_Dave_Macleod_Steall-_MG_2660.jpg)
Fight the Feeling, 8c+/9a, Steall, Glen Nevis. Picture by Lukasz Warzecha. (http://www.lwimages.co.uk/)
I finally nailed my Steall project. All I can say is I had a fantastic and heart stopping 20 seconds when I got through the crux and nervously continued, completely pumped to the belay. I was totally unsure if I’d make it until I had the finishing jug firmly in my hand. I think I was too nervous and full anticipation to even breathe or make a sound.
I’m so, so happy with this new route. The cliff carries a lot of personal history for me and completing it is a culmination of a big part of my climbing inspiration. It’s also one of the most stunningly nice rock climbs I’ve ever seen and the quality of the rock is just fantastic. Apart from all that, it’s also the hardest sport route I’ve climbed by a good margin.
It ‘went’ it straight away after I took a break to go bouldering in the alps for a week and then returning to find the long awaited perfect conditions (about 10 degrees with a breeze). Sure you could say (and some have said) I was crazy to try it through the summer heat, humidity and midges. That could be correct. Maybe I just tried it because I wanted to be trying it rather than it being the best thing to be doing? But maybe if I hadn’t had regular sessions on it I wouldn’t have got stronger on the moves and learned all the little things that get you higher on the climb.
I first visited Steall as an unfit 17 year old around 1995. I still remember being really inspired by the place, and by the hard climbs. They were just so far above what I could ever imagine. I’d seen the pictures of Malcolm Smith on Steall Appeal (8b) and Cubby on his Ring of Steall project which I’d heard could be one of the first 8c+s if he could finish it. When we went, Cubby’s draws were in place on Ring of Steall and we made it our day’s entertainment just to abseil down the crag. I was totally fascinated by how hard it must be to climb that smooth overhanging sheet of rock, and a seed was definitely sown to see how much of the huge leap from my level to being able to climb this I could jump.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pG3FUZuAVzo/UF-eZ0OulKI/AAAAAAAAC6M/ZVwrwConLvA/s1600/2012-09-21_Dave_Macleod_Steall-_MG_2653.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pG3FUZuAVzo/UF-eZ0OulKI/AAAAAAAAC6M/ZVwrwConLvA/s1600/2012-09-21_Dave_Macleod_Steall-_MG_2653.jpg)
Starting the crux section. Lukasz and Wojtek (The Polished Project (http://polishedproject.com/)) also shot some nice film of the route which hopefully will show off what a nice route and cliff this is. I always felt it was a shame that so few people know about Steall and how great the climbing is here. Yes I know there are a couple of midges about in summer. But right now (Sept) and right through the spring it’s a fantastic place to climb. Fight the Feeling takes in most of Ring of Steall (8c+) until past it's crux and then has a bouldery main crux on the headwall above. I gave it a split grade in the end and I'll wait for the opinion of repeaters. If Ring of Steall holds it's 8c+ grade then maybe it will end up as 9a. If not then it would be 8c+. It's certainly much harder for me personally than A' Muerte (9a) that I did a few years ago, but it's always hard to tell if one route just suits you more than another.
It was several years later before I returned and actually tried Cubby’s Ring of Steall project. Despite getting close, Cubby never quite finished it off, which I know was frustrating for him. I hope he can see that the vision for the line and the effort he did make carried a great inspiration for me and other climbers, which has got to be important and worthwhile. For me, the unfinished project it seemed like an obvious target to feel like I could make some sort of contribution to climbing in the highlands. I thought about it a lot and it eventually became a dream route for me. But when I tried the crux, it just seemed impossible. I wasn’t anywhere near strong or technically aware enough to do even the moves. More years later, with lots more climbing experience under my belt, I climbed the Ring of Steall project (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2007/08/ring-of-steall-project-sent.html) in 2007 which was a very memorable moment for me.
Despite it feeling so hard during the preparation of many days working on it, I did it effortlessly on my first serious redpoint attempt, much to my surprise. This of course opened my eyes that there was more space to improve. So the blank looking headwall above where Ring of Steall heads left to finish up a diagonal crack seemed like the obvious progression.
I placed the bolts and had great fun unlocking a sequence to connect a few distant tiny crimps on this. Initially, just linking the section where it left Ring of Steall to the top felt absolutely nails. In actual fact, I was stupidly missing a few obviously better methods to do the moves and eventually could link the headwall quite steadily. Eventually I redpointed through the Ring of Steall crux over 30 times but hit a wall by the time I got to the main crux on the headwall. I was lucky to have an up for it partner in redpointing during July and August, Dan, who nailed his summer project (Trick of the Tail 7b+) right 10 minutes after my top out.
Linking the whole route was desperate for me. I’ve learned a lot about my climbing limitations during trying it, because I’ve tried everything to get stronger and fitter to manage it. However, just like on Ring of Steall, when I finally did it, it felt easy. So the door for further improvement is still wide open it seems!
And that was my biggest problem - I had become convinced during trying it that not only was I struggling to make the improvements I needed to, but I was somehow losing my ability to climb, train, recover and have good days. Almost every attempt became a constant fight against this feeling. I don’t really know why I’ve turned into a sport psychologist’s nightmare, but I do seem to have lost a lot of confidence for some reason. The routine of preparing myself for a redpoint effort got progressively more difficult as last month wore on. I wasn’t nervous or scared of it, I’ve got enough experience to be able to swallow those feelings in a climbing situation at least. It was more that I stopped believing I had room to improve on my previous best efforts.
I wondered what I could do about this feeling at the time. It was really strange - one part of my mind was telling me that just keeping going with the training and work I was doing on the route would pay off sooner or later, while the other just didn’t believe it was making any difference. The only option really was just to keep going to find out which scenario would come to pass. In the end, several small things got me there. I kept going back and changing little things in the sequence that needed changing, simplifying the footwork and using a crucial intermediate hold on the crux. I alternated periods of working the route with a little time away to train, and I did a few sessions of deadhangs replicating the specific grips I needed on the route. Finally, I went a did some nice runs during which I tried to regain confidence while hopefully burning some fat.
I felt I really needed to finish the project to move on to another stage in my climbing and life. It’s taken the guts of a whole summer season, but well worth it. So I’m slightly less unfit than when I first visited Steall 17 years ago and it’s time to move on again. I have a few more wee climbs to finish off here yet before I’m completely done, but I’ll certainly miss climbing here almost as much as I’ll enjoy starting another adventure on some other steep bit of rock. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8448192656549569670?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7GEPqRQqPXQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good choice of shoe. Makes you wonder why Scarpa ever stopped making them. Or the Boosters. Or the Styx, or...
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Good choice of shoe. Makes you wonder why Scarpa ever stopped making them. Or the Boosters. Or the Styx, or...
:agree:
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Good choice of shoe. Makes you wonder why Scarpa ever stopped making them. Or the Boosters. Or the Styx, or...
:agree:
I don't think Scarpa stopped making them, they're listed on the Italian website and continental shop sites. Distribution appears to have stopped in UK for those models. Moral: if you find a shoe which suits and is cheapish, buy several pairs.
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End of the line, for a short while (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EA5_WewWiIw/end-of-line-for-short-while.html)
1 October 2012, 12:41 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KeKDS39I8GY/UGja_lTGnmI/AAAAAAAAC7A/QEH5gNpK6l4/s1600/steallsep12+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KeKDS39I8GY/UGja_lTGnmI/AAAAAAAAC7A/QEH5gNpK6l4/s1600/steallsep12+4.jpg)
Oops! Time for a little phase of finger strength training
In my last blog post I mentioned that I had a few wee routes to finish off before I was completely done with Steall. I do like finishing things before moving on, so I was eager to get them done. I’d bolted 5 new routes on the left side of the crag, two on the left arete of the main crag and three on either side of the big slab to it’s left. All needed a good brush since they are a bit slow to dry compared to the other lines, but the rock is great with lovely little pockets and every so often these weird letterbox jugs that are just the most satisfying holds ever!
End of the Line 6b+, first ascent, Steall.
I’d bolted the routes and partially done the hard work of cleaning them on previous visits. With three dry days gone, three of us went up to try and get them cleaned and climbed before they got wet again. All was going well, a new 7b, 6c and 6b+ were in the bag. But then it went a bit pear shaped.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5oMldYq0UjE/UGjbAAJ4BgI/AAAAAAAAC7M/OyaVK_foUqA/s1600/steallsep12+5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5oMldYq0UjE/UGjbAAJ4BgI/AAAAAAAAC7M/OyaVK_foUqA/s1600/steallsep12+5.jpg)
Kev took these pics and had a fine view of my tumble down the bottom bit of the slab into the birch trees
It turned out, the 6b+ slab was quite long and the rope I was using which wasn’t mine was a little short. As I got lowered off, the rope ran out about 6-8 feet above the small ledge at the start of the route proper. Neither of us noticed in time and so I plummeted, clipping the ledge with my foot and somersaulting down the turfy scrambling ground below, eventually coming to a violent stop wrapped around a birch tree on the slope below.
As I was flying head over heels I was wondering what the hell was going on! Normally I always take a long rope to the crag so rope length issues don’t arise and it hit me that the borrowed rope I was using must’ve been too short and the end had gone through the belay device. For a minute or two I thought I might have got away with it but very quickly my right foot started to get bigger and severely object to being weighted.
A rather nauseous hop/clamber/crawl down to the wire bridge followed. The bridge was fine thanks to my practice on the Stac of Handa. After that, the machine that is Kev Shields carried me most of the way back through Steall gorge to the car and a trip to the Belford. A good man to have around when things go wrong! It appears my ankle is not broken but it looks likely I have a grade II tear of my plantar fascia (foot arch) and will be on crutches for a few weeks. It’s still early days to get a close idea of exactly what’s been mashed and bashed inside my foot.
On the bright side, I was about to start the yearly retreat to the fingerboard to avoid the autumn deluge and begin my foundation of strength training for the season anyway. So now I’ll have a even more focused start to that. I might even finish writing my book too. A few weeks out of immediate performance goals to really build a base of finger strength is something I should have been doing much more of in previous years. It will be really interesting to see if it yields a positive effect. I know where I’d place my bets!
I took day 1 post-injury off since I felt pretty damn sore all over and sorry for myself. But yesterday (day 2) I started gently with an hour and a half session of deadhangs, pull ups, antagonist work and flexibility training. My neck still felt a bit sore from the somersaulting down a crag, so I felt pretty weak and tentative. But that will give me good motivation to climb out from the hole.
I feel awful I’ve had to cancel a coaching trip I was due to go on next week, and a trip right afterwards to the trad area of Bohuslan in Sweden that I was greatly looking forward to. But both can be done when I’m stronger, healthier and have the book finished.
So no there is no time to waste! I’ll be back on the cliffs in 4-6 weeks and have a lot of deadhangs and writing to fit in before then. Best get stuck in!
[UPDATE] I wrote the above on day 3 post accident. It’s now day 6 and I’ve already made a bit of progress. I started early mobilisation on day 4 and have got 80% ankle range of movement back from about 20% on day 1. I can rest the weight of my leg on the ground now and even get 10kgs of force through my forefoot pain free. Looking good!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pQv9ExlQgV0/UGja-NiY4XI/AAAAAAAAC6w/oD-YDuNd6WQ/s1600/steallsep12+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pQv9ExlQgV0/UGja-NiY4XI/AAAAAAAAC6w/oD-YDuNd6WQ/s1600/steallsep12+2.jpg)
Dam That River 7b, first ascent, Steall
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5064565116197986095?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EA5_WewWiIw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Foot-notes day 17 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bY9tBpCVP_4/foot-notes-day-17.html)
12 October 2012, 11:58 am
I’m at day 17 post accident and had the expected ups and downs. A lot of folk (including many who are recovering from nasty injuries themselves) from got in touch after my last blog post saying they were heartened to see me sounding so optimistic so soon after my little tumble. Thanks!
I must admit that the novelty somewhat wore off on Monday morning, waking up after week 2 of recovery and looking forward to week 3… of much the same. On the whole, it’s true what I said that a bit of time uninterrupted by trying to perform would be great to have a proper phase of foundation strength training. That part has been going great. When I go into my wall and start doing my workouts, I sort of forget about the injury for a while and feel normal.
The biggest pain in the ass is not being able to chase my 19 month old wee girl about and generally being a useless lump at home. I’ve only thrown my crutches away in anger once. In the grand scheme of things it’s obviously nothing to moan about. However, trying not to moan doesn't get rid of the feeling underneath. It seems the biggest psychological challenge is not right after the injury, but a few weeks on. What can you do but hang on the the positives of the training that can be done. Since I have a lower limb injury, thats a lot!
My plan to return to climbing with a Gullich upper half and Ondra lower half is working nicely. While my legs are visibly atrophied, my arms get bigger. On the fingerboard, as well as having time to get thorough workouts completed daily, I’ve had time to do all the peripheral stuff too. I have basically avoided basic strength training since 2008 because of golfers elbow. Even last winter, when I got symptom free and could train freely on the bouldering wall again, I still avoided campusing and fingerboard for the time being. Although I’ve been able to manage to keep a decent climbing standard, I could definitely feel my basic power suffering this year.
So with this break I’m determined to get fully back into strength training. So I’ve matched a rather intense program of deadhangs and pull-ups with an intense program of wrist flexor eccentrics for the elbows. It’s definitely working. I was always too scared to really push into elbow pain at VAS 5 just because it felt so wrong. But having bitten the bullet, it’s feeling line the right thing to do. I’ve also started a new method of doing eccentrics to mimic the most aggravating position and so far I think it’s increasing the response.
As expected, walking is still feeling pretty distant. I still cant get near a full weight bear on the bad foot although it can handle sharing the weight for standing now. I had a good meeting with Jaqui at Lochaber Physiotherapy (http://www.lochaberphysiotherapy.co.uk/) and got a stronger idea of what is going on in my foot. My ankle joint seems to be on good form at the moment. I also still have a foot arch which elicits very localised pain at the attachment to my heel bone. The heel bone and fat pad seems to have been very badly bruised and bashed and will no doubt cause me a world of pain in the weeks to come once I start walking again. I think I’ll have a fine excuse to treat myself to a nice new pair of shoes. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5675307268464541880?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bY9tBpCVP_4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Foot notes day 21 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SVBFD7YDiKE/foot-notes-day-21.html)
16 October 2012, 10:04 am
The strength of my torn plantar fascia (foot arch) is definitely improving rapidly at the moment. I’m imagining it’s still mid way through forming the immature collagen scar, but the earliest new fibres could already be starting to remodel now. Over the weekend I was able to briefly stand on the bad foot alone, though lent on the lateral side and I can stand up on my toes too, but again only if I lean my foot on it’s lateral side, so it doesn't really count.
The medial side is still too weak to walk without pain, and my heel must be well and truly bashed up as it formed fresh swelling and bad pain from yesterday’s weight bearing experiments. Normal walking is still some way off for me. I have to accept that. I still managed to limp across my kitchen though. So making tea continues to get easier.
On the fingerboard, I have also had great progress which I’m sure must start levelling off soon. I got 6 pull-ups on the Beastmaker monos, 3 on the 45 degree slopers (no cheats of course) and back up to 2.5 one-arms on the big hold. My best ever one arm performance was 4 complete pull-ups on a bar, about 6 or 7 years ago. I’m chuffed to get so much strength back so quickly after so many years avoiding pull-ups. My ultimate goal strength levels are still miles off though, so hopefully I can keep having sessions like they are going just now - noticeably stronger every day. It’s just so nice to finally pick up where I left off with a bit of real strength training that was out of the question for so long.
I think my weight has risen by a kilo or 2 which I’m counting as an achievement considering I’ve been sat on my ass or doing isometric hangs. I’m going to try and get myself a bike shortly. I think I might be able to cycle even in another week or so, and I sure as hell want to start burning some calories, getting outside and clawing back some VO2 max as soon as my foot lets me. Even if I only need to do that for a week or two before walking and climbing gradually take over, it’ll still be worth it to get conditioned again, both in terms of VO2 and body composition. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-530313648831092042?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SVBFD7YDiKE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Doh. Surgery on the cards (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/oaGUajl5cks/doh-surgery-on-cards.html)
28 October 2012, 1:30 pm
Well that was an up and down week. At the start of week 4 of since my accident I attempted some normal steps across a room. I yelped and fell over. My ankle joint, which had seemed relatively unaffected, was immediately extremely painful on the anterior aspect. Pretty much my worst fears then.
In the absence of much ligament damage in that area, pain inside my ankle joint looked likely to mean damage to the articular (cartilage) surface inside the joint. Since cartilage, strictly speaking, doesn’t heal, it wasn’t the best. I was straight back for another x-ray that afternoon, which as expected was inconclusive. At least there wasn’t obvious damage to my talus. There was the faint echo suggesting there might be a bone spur in there, but it was hard to tell, and my doctor felt it would be treated conservatively anyway. I talked to my doctor in detail about what to do next. An MRI scan was really in order, but this and a consultation with an expert ankle orthopedic surgeon would add up into months of wait. Without really knowing what was wrong in my ankle, walking around on potentially damaged cartilage wasn’t really an option given my occupation.
So I decided to find out how much it would be to see the consultant on private time. Even if I just paid for the diagnosis and scanning, I’d be able to jump a lot of the waiting without extreme cost. One week later I was in the MRI machine and the following morning on the consultant’s table. I’m glad I did. The scan showed bruising in my Talus and Tibia but no damage visible on the articular surface. However, I had a large bone spur on the front of my tibia which had broken off. Although I do have the option of leaving it there and seeing if it gives me problems down the line, removing it might be the safer option to protect myself against future problems. There is also the additional benefit of a close inspection of the joint cartilage and any defects can be treated at the same time.
I didn’t feel like I had much option but to get it done, and get it done quickly. Although it’s going to be seriously expensive, it protects my ability to work in the short and long term. So I’m booked for the surgeons table in two weeks time. Depending on exactly what the surgeon finds in there, I’ll either be back to climbing in a few short weeks, or a bit longer. The way it feels, I think it’ll be on the short side. But I’m not thinking about it. All I can do right now is keep training and count down the days until then. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-970840325570267414?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/oaGUajl5cks)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good luck Dave. I'm sure with your diligence and medical nouse you will recover well for climbing fitness, even if it requires more time than you like.
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Something reliable (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/f4fnatAI-BI/something-reliable.html)
30 October 2012, 9:06 pm
The past few weeks have been a bit tiresome at times. Two separate but related things have been going on with me. The first is obviously my struggle to recover from my recent climbing accident. The second is the thing I’ve been filling a lot of my time with for the past month while I cannot climb properly - working on my injuries book.
I’ve spent weeks and weeks of just reading, wading through scientific papers, medical texts, blogs and case studies. Sports medicine crosses so many specific fields of knowledge. It’s a huge picture. One of the most striking things about the science and art of treating sports injuries is the lack of hard unequivocal evidence in so many corners of sports medicine practice. You could spend your whole life reading the conflicting viewpoints and interpretations of the weak and limited scientific evidence available. The deeper you read into the detail of each field, the less seems reliable.
Of course, a bit of time to step back, digest and put into perspective what you have read makes things clearer. But while reading through the thick of the information, it’s hard not to get disheartened by the lack of hard rules and structure on which to build an approach to staying free of injury and solving existing ones.
One theme that does keep coming up is that humans do seem to be able in a lot of situations to find ways to overcome problems where the available evidence is not much help. When it’s not obvious what to do to either improve performance or recover from an injury, the single most valuable thing we can hold onto is that we have the capacity to literally try everything, to not give up and to work through problems and last the distance until either a resolution or a workaround is reached.
Lack of good scientific evidence to base our decisions is frustrating, but it’s crucial not to let this erode the one thing you can rely on to make progress - strong motivation. Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Recovery day 1, again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/M-Ad6fwWifk/recovery-day-1-again.html)
10 November 2012, 12:12 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VVf8VywmVB0/UJ5Doj4LZ5I/AAAAAAAAC70/9t3jhoY2HVw/s400/postopdavemed.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VVf8VywmVB0/UJ5Doj4LZ5I/AAAAAAAAC70/9t3jhoY2HVw/s1600/postopdavemed.JPG)
Wakey Wakey Mr MacLeod. Feeling rather spaced shortly after coming round.
Yesterday I had my ankle surgery, which went quite well. Quote of the day from the surgeon was ‘articular surface intact’. Thank goodness for that. However, I did have a small flap of torn cartilage in the medial gutter of my ankle. It was very small and right on the edge of the cartilage, so it may not give me any trouble in the long term, or it might. We’ll have to see. I’m also still sore at the back of my ankle which couldn’t be properly seen but the surgeon’s opinion is that this is not a big deal and will settle. Again, we’ll just have to see. The large tibial bone spur which was creaking around in my ankle was chewed up and pulled out and I’m pretty sure that will help matters a lot!
I’ve got instructions to proceed to full weight bearing as pain allows. Obviously, 24 hours post operation I certainly don’t feel like putting my foot anywhere near a floor. On Monday I have to be in Wales for a big Gore-Tex event, but then I’ll just go home and work on my book for a week or two and then if everything feels ok, I will try to begin some gentle climbing. I do have a lingering worry about the back of my ankle. But there’s not much I can do except see how things pan out. I’m trying not to base my feelings on how it feels one day after being under the knife.
I do have a rehab plan in mind, but it’ll have to stay in my mind for a few more days until everything settles and I know exactly what the starting place is.
I feel lucky to the point of feeling guilty about having got away without more serious damage and disability. Much as I’m aware that we have a lot of power to get ourselves out of all manner of holes, there are some things that cannot be changed, and others have far more serious misfortune to deal with. What can you do except take the luck you’ve been given and run as far as you can with it?
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8507926276448097989?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/M-Ad6fwWifk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Much as I’m aware that we have a lot of power to get ourselves out of all manner of holes, there are some things that cannot be changed, and others have far more serious misfortune to deal with. What can you do except take the luck you’ve been given and run as far as you can with it?
Or not run, as the case may be :whatever:
Wise words though, and good luck with the recovery.
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Post surgery day 6 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bk0WA-XVtwI/post-surgery-day-6.html)
16 November 2012, 5:55 pm
I’m finally home after surgery. Until today, I felt pretty rubbish. Particularly yesterday morning which was a real low point of feeling pretty fed up indeed. I got a bit of a fright after three days when I took my dressing off to find my foot was a fair bit bigger and more purple than I expected it to be. I guess in my mind I’d already gone through the ‘ankle like a purple football’ phase once already. It’s a slightly more normal shape after much time under an ice pack and I can move it a little more than, well, not at all.
So I’m happier today and feeling like it’s a bit more ‘on track’. I’ll just let the next few days roll with some gentle movement and more ice until next week it’s more established in the proliferation phase and hopefully ready for some slightly less gentle stretching.
Up til today I must admit I just couldn’t face training at all. I’m not sure if this was a physical thing or whether I was just feeling a bit low. But tonight I’ll try a few hangs and see how I get on. Even if it’s just a warm-up and then stop, doing something might be really good for morale. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3325881679612563093?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bk0WA-XVtwI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery day 12 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hyEF0s9T6Js/post-surgery-day-12.html)
22 November 2012, 12:04 am
Two days ago my foot started to show some signs of fairly rapid improvement. In those two days I’ve gone from prohibitive pain just trying to put weight through it without moving, to todays crutch free hobbling about the house. It’s still a hobble and will have to be for a while yet since the drilled area underneath my medial malleolus is still feeling raw and preventing a full stride. However, the feeling of bipedal movement even if it’s only slow and from room to room feels good. Little Freida keeps bringing me my crutches and it was especially nice to leave them sitting by the couch for once and follow her on foot. The boost was momentary however, since she proceeded to burn me off on my own board, swinging around on the holds.
Today, hanging about on my board and putting my feet on, I’m actually thinking that moderate climbing may well be easier than walking. So I think it’s almost time to get moving on some very easy routes. Scarpa are sending me a bigger pair of rock shoes for my swollen foot. Even then I reckon the first week or two of climbing will need to be in one approach shoe. Caution is probably well advised though - I’ll wait a few days yet, and start off on 6s.
Meanwhile I have plenty of training tasks, rehab tasks and working tasks to complete each day and have recommenced these in earnest. I even needed a rest day from fingerboard work today! Some of my pre-surgery gain in pure finger strength have been lost from the week off, which is expected and temporary of course.
One thing I have on my side is experience of having gone through this sort of thing before. It certainly hasn’t helped me deal with the fear of permanent loss of function. But it has helped me manage the maintenance training much better. The last time I broke my ankle I was 3 months in plaster and when it came out I had one leg like a stick insect. I was pretty lazy then (it was 15 years ago) and didn’t do anything like the levels of physiotherapy and training I ought to have done. So it took a lot longer than it could have to return to fitness. I totally missed the opportunity to get a good ‘foundation’ phase done. So when the time came around, I had to learn to climb well again at the same time as start from being ridiculously weak.
This time round, I’ve tried to give myself some slack where it makes sense, and worked hard where it makes sense. For instance, I’ve eaten a ton and then had cake afterwards. Funnily enough my weight is the same although body composition might need some miles on the bike to correct. But I’ve done more fingerboard, rotator cuff, flexibility and push ups in the last 7 weeks than the previous year. It might be into next spring before I can sort everything else out enough to reap rewards from that, but they will hopefully be there.
Carrying lunch slowly through to another room under my own steam felt like a wee milestone today, but the stiffness tonight reminded me there will be plenty more ups and downs to come. I might get a fright when I try and climb! Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery day 21 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/zBNLQwBCGFQ/post-surgery-day-21.html)
1 December 2012, 8:45 pm
A few days ago I tried a little gentle climbing at Glasgow Climbing Centre. As I kind of expected, I wasn’t really ready just yet. Well, I’m not really too sure to be honest. The climbing felt really quite gentle. It might have been trying to walk from the car that was the bigger problem.
I kept a walking boot on my right foot and just did about 15 routes between 6a and 7a. I did try one 7a+ but it had some drop-knees so I just backed off. The feeling of climbing reminded me of one time the morning after a friend’s stag do, trying to climb when totally hungover! Balance, control and fitness all felt predictably novice-like. It was an odd sensation - simultaneously feeling great just to be moving up some holds, while also feeling like throwing a strop at the state of my form. The enjoyable part won out.
The swelling around my ankle has decreased maybe 50% now and my drilled up medial talus feels a little less raw. However, now I’ve started to attempt progressive weightbearing, yet another new pain has emerged. I’m getting a severe shot of pain in my midfoot while trying to heel raise out of a dorsiflexed position. It’s painless with even slight support from my crutches, so I’ll need to keep using them yet. Who knows what’s going on there. Perhaps it’s just all part of the recovering process, or perhaps there’s some other damage in there that has not yet been seen. I’m a bit terrified there’s something going on with my navicular or even a lisfranc injury. Next week it's back to looking at MRIs and visits to hospitals all over again.
Such are the ups and downs I’m going to have to keep working through. In the meantime, It’s back to writing and exercises. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-2316245765522011916?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/zBNLQwBCGFQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lecture at TCA Glasgow soon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/gc8X4SzzGG4/lecture-at-tca-glasgow-soon.html)
1 December 2012, 8:58 pm
(http://www.tca-glasgow.com/storage/121112%20DMac%20Poster.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1352756588907) (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/storage/121112%20DMac%20Poster.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1352756588907) In couple of weeks time (Sat 15th) I’m heading to TCA in Glasgow (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/) to speak. I’ve just been putting together some stories and ideas for my talk. I guess because the talk is in Glasgow, my home city and in a climbing wall it got me going over thoughts of the path my climbing has taken since I discovered climbing. I viewed my participation in climbing really quite differently in every stage of my life as a climber. In the talk I want to share some of the important moments both of climbing and in thought that opened the next chapter of climbing adventures and challenges, which are of course still unfolding to this day.
Come along, it starts at 6.30pm. It’s a bit cheaper if you get a ticket in advance - details in the poster above.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-4811106002564035355?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/gc8X4SzzGG4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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3 weeks post surgery: climbing begins! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9cNgiTjc_eE/3-weeks-post-surgery-climbing-begins.html)
7 December 2012, 5:42 pm
Just over three weeks post surgery, I had a much more convincing start to climbing activity. Thanks goodness for that. The pain in my midfoot got quite worrying over the course of a few days, but then the process reversed and I was able to walk progressively better. I’m not as worried about this now. I had been trying on my right rockshoe every few days and it just felt ‘wrong’. But then it crossed a line and felt ok, so I went climbing.
I just went to the bouldering wall and did some very controlled circuits and carefully executed boulder problems. As you can imagine that felt pretty damn good! So now I do feel like I’m on a route back into climbing. Of course I’ll have to build up slowly. There’s no way I could walk up a mountain just yet. Even on the wall, my movement is quite limited and I can't go high, jump off my foot or rock over aggressively onto it. But at least I can do something.
In the coming week or two I’ll just work back up through the progression of problems on my own board, go for a few short walks if I can, and do some bike sessions to remind my body it needs to start getting fit again soon. Work has increased to a fever pitch as I’m trying to complete lots of work tasks ahead of being able to get climbing outdoors again. When that happens I’ll inevitably go mental and want to do quite a lot.
I’ve been back for a second session after a day’s rest and will have another tonight. Here’s to that. Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Davemacleod.com shop new stuff (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/H3y9GQS8yk8/davemacleodcom-shop-new-stuff.html)
7 December 2012, 6:10 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/vertical.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/vertical.jpg)Over the past few weeks we have added quite a few new titles to the shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html). Of course as usual we are dispatching right up to and over the Christmas period. Early winter is of course the season for thinking about (and hopefully doing) training. As well as the full complement of the best climbing training titles on the market, our Beastmaker fingerboards (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#equipment)are ever popular and we’ve just got another large pile of them in.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/echoes.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/echoes.jpg)First up we have Ines Papert’s rather lovely new book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/vertical.html). It’s really an inspiration book full of great photography of her globetrotting adventures on steep ice, rock, mixed and big mountains, together with stories of her experiences.
Nick Bullock is a somewhat controversial chap who has a habit of provoking and polarising opinion on all things climbing and mountaineering. He caused a bit of a storm recently for making some pretty strong assumptions about the folk he passes in the street; “their lives are grey”. So you can imagine his new book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echoes.html) is not short of colourful thoughts and stories of mountaineering experiences all over the planet. He’ll be the first to tell you that he’s not elitist in his climbing philosophy, certainly not trying to be anyway… Essential reading really.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/boundless.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/boundless.jpg)Next up we have Karen Darke’s second book ‘Boundless’. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/boundless.html) It’s one thing to decide to take on a life of adventure following a life changing accident that leaves you paralysed. But what is the reality of living that life like? She shows us that fear and uncertainty do not go away, even if you decide to take life by the horns…
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/autana.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/autana.jpg)Finally we have Autana, Leo Houlding’s latest climbing adventure film (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/autana.html) to climb the great sandstone big wall on Cerro Autana in the Amazon jungle. It really is a fine adventure, full of some quite unexpected challenges that are both funny and renew your respect for Leo’s attitude to erm, trying new things (you’ll see what I mean). The cave systems high on the wall they visit are quite extraordinary and the whole thing is very well filmed as you would expect from an Alastair Lee DVD.
We still have a bit to go before last posting days before Christmas, so get them in. Te shop is here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5045726698785699194?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/H3y9GQS8yk8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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1 month post surgery (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/U7RLXUhF-VU/1-month-post-surgery.html)
11 December 2012, 10:19 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CaA2pOXkWtI/UMeVluKlwfI/AAAAAAAAC8g/WnKJUZHmuu4/s640/Dec2012+10.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CaA2pOXkWtI/UMeVluKlwfI/AAAAAAAAC8g/WnKJUZHmuu4/s1600/Dec2012+10.jpg)
My house this evening.
It’s now a month since my surgery. My ankle is getting ever closer to a normal size. However, it’s still stiff as hell and I feel a good way off getting into the mountains. There should hopefully now be some fibrocartilage cells growing over the defect that was drilled in my surgery. I experimented with a 5 mile cycle the other day, and it felt a little raw after that. The following day I walked the best part of a Km on the flat and it was fine with that. Early days? Hopefully. In another couple of weeks the fibrocartilage should be a little more mature and I should get a better idea how I’ll be fixed for proceeding to longer walks and climbs into mountains.
In the meantime, I’ve progressed from easier moves on near vertical terrain to a proper session of bouldering on my own board. The first session was shaky but OK and I managed one medium and one quite hard problem, although the hard one had a foot-off crux so it doesn’t really count. On the second session I could make some quite difficult moves, but some moves that I normally find easy were not possible just yet. Strength, stability and confidence will need many sessions over the coming weeks to build up. Great to be doing the whole routine of climbing though.
It’s quite a nice reminder of how much power you apply through your lower body on hard moves, even when the footholds are very poor. Being able to test this on board problems I’ve done before is an eye opener. Where my foot normally maintains body tension and pulls really hard to stay on, right now it just lifts off without me being able to do anything about it. The priority is to get mileage on problems and routes I can onsight or do in two tries for the time being to reeducate the motor patterns as well as gain the strength right through the chain to my toes.
On Thursday I’m travelling to Glasgow for a coaching session with the youth squad at TCA and then my lecture there on Saturday at 6.30pm. Do come along to that. For a slightly cheaper advance ticket, give TCA a ring on 0141 429 6331.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5334315093320011807?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/U7RLXUhF-VU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bongo Bar film from Norway is up (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Td1TJexqAuc/bongo-bar-film-from-norway-is-up.html)
11 December 2012, 11:54 pm
The full film of our first free ascent of Bongo Bar on Blamman in arctic Norway is now online. A lovely reminder of a great route and trip and somewhere I'm definitely going back to! In the last week I’ve just been talking with Gore-Tex about the next Gore-Tex experience tour (http://www.experience-tour.com/) I’m planning.
By the way, not all the tours are rock climbing based - there are opportunities to win places (http://www.experience-tour.com/) on trips in all sorts of mountain sports. Right now there are two comps with closing dates in the next month. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-3598157636819211474?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Td1TJexqAuc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery week 5 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/E7OwJ5XjaIQ/post-surgery-week-5.html)
17 December 2012, 5:28 pm
Every day is feeling like a little milestone right now. On Saturday, before my lecture at TCA, I tried a little bouldering. It was inspiring and demoralising in equal measure. It was great to complete some easy problems and feel like I was really climbing again. However, I couldn’t do any remotely difficult moves and was using mainly upper body strength to try to control my way through moves and take pressure off my feet. Even the things I could carefully climb, I had to jump off from head height, or climb up as if I was soloing and reverse back down.
After a post lecture drink, I walked back from the pub, a total of 5 miles, which was fantastic. So today (Monday) I decided to make a small venture into the hills, walking up to the Iron Age fort of Dun Deardail above Glen Nevis which is a few miles and 350m of ascent. Although my foot was quite achey, it was more that both feet and legs felt equally stiff and out of shape. Plus, there was no pain from the joint itself, only the plantar fascia was complaining.
A good day or progress and I’m looking forward to the next little step forward. In the meantime, back to roof climbing on my board and then the wobble board. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-8072499781850973074?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/E7OwJ5XjaIQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fort William Mountain Film Festival masterclasses (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/GW_vW6xxby4/fort-william-mountain-film-festival.html)
18 December 2012, 12:53 pm
Since I’ve been working on a book, I’ve not been able to do personal coaching. I still get asked a lot, so I run a few days a year of group masterclasses, which are always very popular. I’m doing a day of classes during the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) in February, at the Ice Factor.
The classes are on Saturday Feb 23rd, 10-12noon, and 3pm-5pm. (the lunchtime session lasted one night on my events page before filling up). Places are £40 plus your normal wall entry. Give Claire a phone on 07813 060376 to get a place.
Later that evening I’m introducing the climbing night at the festival with film and a Scottish winter climbing theme for Andy Cave’s lecture.
See you there! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-7647520718012039510?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/GW_vW6xxby4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Christmas orders from our shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/jS2Q1twO8To/christmas-orders-from-our-shop.html)
18 December 2012, 1:27 pm
We are dispatching every day via Royal Mail first class. Last posting day for Christmas delivery is Thursday 20th. So get your order in. If you don’t make it in time for Thursday, will be dispatching orders right through the Christmas period.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/wideboyzDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/wideboyzDVD.jpg)I have just added two new climbing DVDs from Hot Aches Productions to the shop. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)
Wideboyz (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/wideboyz.html) tells the story of Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall’s crack climbing adventure from training in their ridiculous but effective home climbing wall to making the first ascent of the world’s hardest offwidth under the noses of the Americans. Good story! It's also available for download.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/odysseyDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/odysseyDVD.jpg)Odyssey (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/odyssey.html) follows a hardcore team of James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini, Hazel Findlay and Hansjorg Auer on a trad road trip around England and Wales onsighting and redpointing many hard and famous trad routes. Also available for download. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/29070294-5043594500258162014?l=davemacleod.blogspot.com)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/jS2Q1twO8To)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ploughing on with the recovery road (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/H-NMEzJKHzI/ploughing-on-with-recovery-road.html)
31 December 2012, 1:39 pm
I’m continuing to plough on with the work of building back up to climbing fitness. Before Christmas, I had some weird sessions. On the boulder wall I could do certain moves that would have been hard for me before my accident, especially if they were close to the ground and didn’t need much work from the foot. As soon as I got above head height, my standard inevitably crashed since I’m not yet safe to jump down from the boulder wall. Over Christmas I spend a few sessions climbing halfway up most things and just downclimbing again as if I was on a trad route! That was quite demoralising. It’s just totally against the grain not to be able to try hard.
However, on the circuits and routes I have been back up to doing a few 7c+s and I can feel my movement and confidence improving with every session. I’m also beginning to increase the load. I’m currently back up to 2 on/1 off, 2 on/2 off. It would be so easy to keep adding more, but I’m so anxious not to overdo it. Running is still painful and out of the question at present, which is disappointing. So it’s a long road and I’m only part way down it. Despite more ups and downs it definitely feels like I’m going somewhere.
I’ve been trying to think of every way I can to improve how far I can go with my gradual return to climbing. Some of that is dealing with small but important details like completing physiotherapy exercises. It’s also the wider approach. I think the best way I can view what I’m doing is serving a new apprenticeship in climbing. It’s a change to re-learn the whole game of climbing from the ground up. I’ve got a strong feeling that this mindset will work pretty well. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/H-NMEzJKHzI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New film downloads in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/o1VdsDVR6xo/new-film-downloads-in-shop.html)
7 January 2013, 11:06 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/LonghopeDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#dvds) I have just added HD downloads of the Hot Aches Productions films to the shop. So now you have a cheaper and more instantaneous way to watch the classic climbing films: The Long Hope, The Pinnacle, Committed 1, Committed 2, Wideboyz, Odyssey and Monkey See Monkey Do. You’ll find them all here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#dvds)
The DVD options are still there too of course... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/o1VdsDVR6xo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Outdoor climbing begins! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JpJOo-r6zZQ/outdoor-climbing-begins.html)
7 January 2013, 11:33 pm
I spent the final couple of hours of 2012 fixing my boiler and packing to go outdoor rock climbing for the first time since my accident. I was so excited about this I failed to sleep all night and had a bleary eyed drive across the highlands on empty roads first thing on new year’s day. I spent a bit of time working on an 8c sport project I’d wanted to try since before the accident and made some nice progress for my first session on it. I linked all the bits that were dry on my first go and got all the moves done despite some wet holds.
On another session it was too wet to even bother getting on it so I did a couple of 7c+s that were really quite wet. I wasn’t scared of falling off at all, but with wet hands I was more anxious about my hands or feet slipping suddenly and loading the ankle. I absolutely loved doing the whole routine of being able to try hard on a rock climb, being outside feeling the cold air and dealing with ropes and and real rock again. It definitely put a spring in my step.
On the other hand, I’ve still got the weird feeling of making rapid progress versus feeling very weak in certain muscles and positions at the same time. As I (hopefully) progress with this return to climbing harder on my second apprenticeship, I’ll try and share with you the lessons I’m re-learning, or indeed learning for the first time. Here is the first:
Apprenticeship 2.0, lesson 1.0
Trying hard underlies all improvement. And underlying trying hard is loving what you do. On my first day out, I was really struck by how much I missed outdoor climbing, and just how much I loved doing it even though it was about 2 degrees with a freezing wind and seeping wet routes. All I could think about was how lucky I was to be back at it.
On the second day, I was totally whacked. I fell on my ass coming down the stairs from bed in the morning. Driving to the crag I just wanted to stop and sleep. The feeling hung around all day when I was belaying or resting between climbs. It would have been so easy to sack it off, not least because the routes were soaking. Having been deprived of climbing for so long, I was able to easily push this straight out of my mind and the feeling in my body disappeared the minute I had my rockshoes on and started to battle up the routes. I was really aware that volume (of moves climbed) is going to be critical as a foundation of my apprenticeship. Thus, a wet day was a fine opportunity to climb lots of volume at an easier intensity instead of battling on the same moves on the 8c. By the end of the day I could definitely feel my movement was getting better, and I’d had a much needed workout.
Sometimes loving what you do just comes completely naturally. Sometimes you definitely need to think carefully about it to override temporary fatigue that tries to convince you you’d rather just head home for a cup of tea. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JpJOo-r6zZQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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First time wielding tools again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/DZd1bjMIAKo/first-time-wielding-tools-again.html)
20 January 2013, 8:56 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7X-hd8jDaPA/UPiVKPnumwI/AAAAAAAAC9Q/DgHxvkl0XG8/s640/toolingfrance+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7X-hd8jDaPA/UPiVKPnumwI/AAAAAAAAC9Q/DgHxvkl0XG8/s1600/toolingfrance+1.jpg)
Manu on the local training route in the Ecrin, France
Last week I was in France, to speak at the Ecrin Ice Festival. On one of the days, I had the opportunity to go and climb with some good climbers. Although I was still uncertain about going winter climbing, it would have been crazy to turn it down. So I turned up and heard from my climbing partners that the plan was to do a very overhanging 6 pitch M9 dry tooling route. This was kind of perfect. The bit I was most worried about was walking in for 30 minutes on snow. But that went fine and my arms proceeded to have a fine wake up call to climbing with tools again. The next morning we did a short ice route with a very rapid retreat due to everything melting around us and making scary cracking noises. I was amazed that my foot was not sore the next day as I expected, and nice to add another first on my list of climbing comeback milestones (or perhaps metrestones).
Obviously I felt quite rusty on the tools. It was quite heartening to see that I could still pull hard, but I’d forgotten so much of the subtlety of the movement in tooling, if I ever knew about it in the first place. I climbed the first pitch in ‘pull up contest’ style with not much weight on my feet. But watching Luca in action reminded me of a lot and by the final pitch I had improved a little.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHY1hEEGqc8/UPiVR9P88KI/AAAAAAAAC9k/5SQwGhmTGxY/s640/toolingfrance+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DHY1hEEGqc8/UPiVR9P88KI/AAAAAAAAC9k/5SQwGhmTGxY/s1600/toolingfrance+2.jpg)
Luca relaxing on another M9 pitch!
Since then I have stepped up the volume of training a little more, with a 5 days on, one off schedule. This was perhaps a little premature as I can feel my ankle a bit after that. However, it hurts in the context of everything else hurting from the work, so it’s not too bad. I’m still feeling fitter with every session and back up to doing 8a routes indoors. That is pretty much as hard as I’ve climbed indoors ever anyway. Quite soon I may well get the chance to try some hard sport routes outdoors too.
Since it’s rest day time now, I’m back to full on writing of my book..
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_RywT6OV2g/UPiVb0ERMuI/AAAAAAAAC9w/jlUAPNLfXIs/s640/toolingfrance+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K_RywT6OV2g/UPiVb0ERMuI/AAAAAAAAC9w/jlUAPNLfXIs/s1600/toolingfrance+3.jpg) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/DZd1bjMIAKo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbers against cancer (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/tN0CPED55OE/climbers-against-cancer.html)
22 January 2013, 10:41 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u040zjOmOVU/UPkuken01WI/AAAAAAAAC-E/_MSgGPisjuY/s640/Dec2012+9.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u040zjOmOVU/UPkuken01WI/AAAAAAAAC-E/_MSgGPisjuY/s1600/Dec2012+9.jpg)
Climbers Against Cancer is a new organisation started by John Ellison. It’s a good story, and seems to have a lot of momentum in climbing. Check it out here. (http://www.facebook.com/CacClimbersAgainstCancer?fref=ts) And when they are ready, do buy a T-shirt.
Thanks Shauna for the heads up. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/tN0CPED55OE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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First winter climb… (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Dwr9ASJwlFg/first-winter-climb.html)
22 January 2013, 10:42 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0rU80OWf8sQ/UPlfkXe3OxI/AAAAAAAAC-c/nSOpYSjBCGM/s640/P1170005.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0rU80OWf8sQ/UPlfkXe3OxI/AAAAAAAAC-c/nSOpYSjBCGM/s1600/P1170005.JPG)
This is great, it really does feel like I’m doing things for the first time all over again, and not just because I’ve lost so much ability to my surgery layoff. During the week, I decided to see if my ankle would be ready to handle a day of winter climbing. It’s quite a big step up from what I’ve done on it up to now (mostly very overhanging circuits indoors). I was rightly worried. I managed it, but only just.
I went out with Kev to Aonach Mor. Kev had been wanting to do Stirling Bridge (VI,7) for years and so we headed for that on a nice morning which was a fine reminder what I’d been missing due to the injury. Kev jumped on it and got to the difficult part but eventually came down so I went up it. The climbing felt quite straightforward. The main problem was cold hands which gave me the most nauseating hot aches I’ve had in a long time. Or perhaps I am softened by my indoor time. All too soon the fun was over and it was time to hobble off down the hill. Just as we were reaching the Gondola I could feel my ankle hurting more and more and was thinking ‘thank goodness the walking is nearly over’. 5 minutes before we got to it, the Gondola was closed early due to the strengthening wind.
The walk back down the line of the Gondola was horrible. A real teeth gritter. I felt bad for putting my ankle through such trauma and braced myself for the next day being even worse. However, to my surprise, by lunchtime the next day it felt quite good and was able to complete another 8a circuit in TCA with no problems.
So there are more ups than downs right now. Net progress.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAAP8vqxJIM/UPlfkgf1KJI/AAAAAAAAC-g/XQnQE4S8Ibw/s640/P1170006.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TAAP8vqxJIM/UPlfkgf1KJI/AAAAAAAAC-g/XQnQE4S8Ibw/s1600/P1170006.JPG)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CbdLcPDQpZo/UPlfin0L_eI/AAAAAAAAC-U/nnEQMVYHu6E/s640/P1170002.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CbdLcPDQpZo/UPlfin0L_eI/AAAAAAAAC-U/nnEQMVYHu6E/s1600/P1170002.JPG)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Dwr9ASJwlFg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Competition (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/pZmMuprmIlE/competition.html)
23 January 2013, 10:47 pm
Although I’ve spent my whole adult life involved in sport, I still have big reservations about large parts of it. I’ve read a lot of work on the history and philosophy of sport, and to be perfectly honest, a good chunk of it makes for depressing reading. I wish more of it could be more like the way it’s supposed to be.
The fact that climbing on mountains and cliffs is hard to pin down, hard to reduce to numbers and results and competition was quite an important aspect of what drew me into it. It’s hard to say ‘I had a better adventure than you’. Even as a climbing coach, I’ve sometimes been uneasy seeing young climbers come up against some of these negatives. Sometimes I wonder if I should say ‘skip the comp this time’. Go and explore somewhere new with some friends and come back for the next comp. As well as providing the essential ability to see outside the bubble of the scene, the perspective might well make a better competitor in the long run.
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/578595_458211407566782_26020101_n.jpg) (http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/578595_458211407566782_26020101_n.jpg)
Kev pointed to this picture on Facebook, of a Basque athlete helping a Kenyan who’d stopped running a few metres short of the finish line in a cross country event, thinking he’d already passed it. The Basque runner could have run right past and won the race. But he stopped to direct the Kenyan over the line, staying behind and keeping the place he would have got if the Kenyan hadn’t made a simple human error. The surprising thing for me was that the attention this story got was as a ‘rare’ piece of sportsmanship. Why shouldn’t it be the norm?
After getting my ankle surgery in November, I decided to enter a running race for the first time, and see how it went. I thought it would be good as a goal to help get me back on my feet and moving fast in the mountains again. I entered the West Highland Way Race for next June. Although I have done quite a lot of hill running at different times over the past year or two, like anyone getting involved in a new scene I was a bit nervous about how welcoming it would be to someone who is known as ‘a climber’. Yesterday a friend told me about this thread (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=531112) started about my entry, which was a bit of a downer. When I experienced this sort of thing as a teenager doing sport at school, I hated it, avoided it and eventually found it’s antidote in going climbing. This time round I don’t need to react like that. But if I am able to recover from my injury enough to do it, it will be weird to stand on the start line knowing I’m standing with others who feel I don’t deserve to be there. My slowly healing ankle joint is the only thing that would stop me earning a place. As I said on the thread, if anyone feels I really don’t deserve the chance as much as them, drop me a line and I’ll offer to withdraw and donate my place. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/pZmMuprmIlE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The fact that climbing on mountains and cliffs is hard to pin down, hard to reduce to numbers and results and competition was quite an important aspect of what drew me into it. It’s hard to say ‘I had a better adventure than you’.
In theory and in spirit, but in reality there is plenty enough grade-chasing, number-obsession, ego-driven ticking and comparing to make it as potentially competitive as any other sport (even to the point where the grade-chasers can't comprehend it otherwise).
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First run (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/GY2GFppTreU/first-run.html)
27 January 2013, 9:39 am
I just arrived in Spain for a little sport climbing to learn to move on rock again. The first day was pretty brutal. I really understood how much confidence I need to get back. I wasn’t scared of falling off, just of moving dynamically as I still get some bad pain if I move in a particular way. I did the moves on a hard route (badly) and then onsighted a 7c (badly). However, getting from bad to, well, somewhere better is what I am here for. So I shall get on with it.
The fatigue in may arms felt really strange, I can’t really explain it but, lets just say I really need the next few days to try and get into some sort of flow.
The highlight of the day though was going for a run. I ran just over 5 miles. Although the damaged part of my ankle joint did give me some twinges unless I start to heel raise before my foot goes too far into dorsiflexion, it felt pretty good and a good bit better than the last time I attempted a run about two weeks ago. However, the real test was not the first, but the second run.
A couple of days later I went 8 miles. Sods law, the first 5 felt ok and then it started to hurt a fair bit. Not so good. I experimented a bit with trying to alter my stride it seemed to be no use. It just hurt and I felt pretty depressed when I finished. Again though, I readied myself for the ankle to be even more annoyed after having a nights sleep to think about it. But it actually felt fine. Dare I say it, even better.
I had an idea that a heel lift orthotic in my shoes might make a difference. The repaired part of the joint is at the very front of my ankle and is only about 3mm. In normal walking gait it's outside of the articular surface and therefore no problem now. It's only the last few degrees of Dorsiflexion during running that seems to cause the problem. So I made a hasty orthotic to try and went out for another 8 miles.
Much better. I still had to concentrate on my stride form like hell the whole way. The slightest drop in concentration or letting my stride get lazy and I could feel a few nociceptors firing. However, at the end of the run I felt like I could have kept going and the ankle was only mildly more tender and that settled within 30 minutes. Very early days, it could be totally different running on uneven surfaces, but it's a huge leap from where I was a few weeks ago. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/GY2GFppTreU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Stepping it up a bit now (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/LFv3JG6sHBM/stepping-it-up-bit-now.html)
28 January 2013, 6:31 pm
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/v/69655_10151204744677133_305593200_n.jpg?oh=485f1316320939fd038d4cd09a4b1dd2&oe=51089C6B&__gda__=1359582602_7350f4baf51a7461363f9360d6dc7aec) (http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/v/69655_10151204744677133_305593200_n.jpg?oh=485f1316320939fd038d4cd09a4b1dd2&oe=51089C6B&__gda__=1359582602_7350f4baf51a7461363f9360d6dc7aec)
Climbing 'Malsonando', Gandia.
During the week in Spain I have been doing some 7b and 7cs onsight just to get into the flow of climbing again, but I was also keen to see just how far away from recovering my form on harder routes. So I tried an 8c called Malsonando at Gandia.
I had no idea how I’d get on. Before coming out, since starting climbing again I’ve had 6 weeks or so of some indoor climbing and started from a very low base of fitness and very gentle climbing on easy ground at first. I did manage to climb the 8a endurance circuits in TCA Glasgow and in the past I’ve found that if I can do 8a indoors I can usually do 8c or even 8c+ outdoors. Folk sometimes find that weird and don’t understand it. Partly it’s because my hands sweat quite a lot and so climbing outside in cold conditions allows me to climb a lot harder. However, the main reason is I’m not that strong and so struggle more indoors where I can rely on technique more outdoors.
Anyway, the rule held true and yesterday I was able to climb Malsonando in pretty bad conditions which I was very happy with. My endurance is still barely off the baseline level and I got quite pumped well before the crux, but it’s definitely a good place to be 2.5 months after the surgeon was drilling into my Talus.
Today was good too, an 8b first redpoint, another 8a and a 7c+ onsight.
On the way home from the crag, I began to think that I could start to set some firmer climbing ambitions for the coming year now. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/LFv3JG6sHBM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Snotter and other recent adventures (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JjeXI3-H8Ek/the-snotter-and-other-recent-adventures.html)
26 February 2013, 1:22 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aoSwLyJsgM4/USvGHBoWLWI/AAAAAAAADAI/l7khdXl2328/s640/snotter+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aoSwLyJsgM4/USvGHBoWLWI/AAAAAAAADAI/l7khdXl2328/s1600/snotter+1.jpg)
Enjoying the ice and sunshine and the feeling of being back in the mountains on The Snotter, VIII,8 Ben Nevis.
During the past three weeks, life has been progressively more manic, as is normal in Lochaber at this time of year. Usually in February, the weather gets amazing for almost all types of climbing, and this season has been especially good. Trying to get anything else done apart from new routes is quite a challenge and usually involves late nights and early starts. Maybe the rain will return by March and I’ll take a rest day?!
When I got home from Spain, I was pretty keen to get into the hills. I started off with a day on the Ben with Kev and could hardly walk the next morning. However, my ankle seemed to continue to adapt and I went back up a couple more times. Since both of us were only really able to walk short distances with big packs, we opted for the CIC hut cascades. Kev cruised the icefall and then I took a look at the 40 degree overhanging wall/roof to the left.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpKizACzo3o/USvHsJ6McpI/AAAAAAAADBo/acv40UGta68/s640/12.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QpKizACzo3o/USvHsJ6McpI/AAAAAAAADBo/acv40UGta68/s1600/12.jpg)
Getting close to success on the first ascent of White Noise, Cascades, Ben Nevis. Photos: Jamie Hageman (http://www.jamiehageman.com/)
I’d seen the thin cracks in the otherwise blank wall years ago and thought about what the best style to climb them was, given that they never ever get white being such a big, steep and smooth roof. I wondered if a big ‘dry’ roof climb would be accepted. Things have moved on a bit in recent years though, with most folk realising that the biggest roofs in certain places in the Scottish mountains just do not get rimed up and so must be climbed in the prevailing conditions, or left. After years of passing those cracks it suddenly seemed totally stupid to leave such good routes unclimbed, so I went back up and did the right hand crack.
It was amazing! I abseiled down it and sussed out the gear and investigated whether it would be possible or not. It was, but only just. The thin seam occasionally opened enough to get the last tooth of a pick in every so often and had the occasional nut and cam slot. It was as if it was made for ice tools. After the abseil, I took a few falls on the lead when super thin hooks ripped, one while holding an arm full of slack above my head to clip the next cam. On my fourth try, I picked all the right hooks and grunted my way to the top. What an ace route. It’s a great choice if the routes in the main corrie are too dangerous to approach on avalanche days, or if it’s super stormy. It went at about M10+, maybe even M11. I’m not too sure since I haven’t done that style of climbing for a while. Certainly it’s as long and steep as Fast & Furious (M10/+) but with much thinner climbing and a bit of faffing with wires and cams to give the arms an extra workout. As a Scottish grade? Pffh, no idea. Greg recently confirmed the Cathedral at X,11 and it's got to be at least a grade harder than that. Regardless of the difficulty, it's something different to climb from the normal routine. It's not a turfy corner, it's not a gully. We've got plenty of those, but not many roof climbs in winter.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bSKjvZf6aqg/USvHbxOCA0I/AAAAAAAADBc/1xDuUtpEUAk/s640/5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bSKjvZf6aqg/USvHbxOCA0I/AAAAAAAADBc/1xDuUtpEUAk/s1600/5.jpg)
Photo: Jamie Hageman. BTW if you are not familiar with Jamie's work as an artist, you really should check out his site (http://www.jamiehageman.com/)and see his Scottish mountain paintings, they are something special.
Next up I went to a ridiculous boulder roof in the glen. It’s quite low to the ground and fully horizontal. An acquired taste maybe - a bit like a darker version of the darkness cave in Magic Wood. There’s 25 feet of horizontal climbing on brutal crimps in there, with three logical starts. The shortest link will be Font 8aish and the full trip looks like solid Font 8b+. I couldn’t imagine doing it at the moment, but I did do about half the moves on my first session.
I’ve also been trying a bit of running with mixed results. I did some trail and hill runs up to 12 miles and was getting on fine. Then one evening I did some short fast sections since it was already getting dark after the climbing. I misjudged the angle of a boulder on the trail and hit the ‘no go zone’ in my ankle hard and let out a yelp. It’s been worse ever since, which is rather depressing. I can’t really do much except hope I’ve not done more damage. Not good.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbtN9gIE24U/USv9DQTs6wI/AAAAAAAADB8/_v7QbbSU9ZA/s640/ardverikie.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbtN9gIE24U/USv9DQTs6wI/AAAAAAAADB8/_v7QbbSU9ZA/s1600/ardverikie.jpg)
Ardverikie deer forest. Here be boulders...
The next day I was getting pain even walking which put a downer on an otherwise great day out in Ardverikie Forest returning to a boulder I’d found on a run two years ago. I went to look at a roof that I’d estimated about Font 8b. But to actually try, it felt way harder. I pretty much gave up, although to be fair I wasn't in the most positive frame of mind, and the easterly was biting cold. It was a series of savage first joint undercuts in a roof with microscopic granite crystals level with your head for feet. A bit like doing harder versions of the Hubble undercuts crux about 5 times in a row. Maybe I’ll make a model on my board and try it once more in the spring.
Next up I headed up the Ben with Michael to look at a hanging icicle on the Breneva Face in Coire Leis. It’s a well known line universally known as “The Snotter” because of the double icicles that are always hanging there in winter but hardly ever touch down. Actually I have seen the left one touching down, but it was 5pm after doing another new route and my partner had to get a flight that night, otherwise I would have gone for a night ascent there and then. I’ve heard various stories of good climbers trying it, even falling off it! But as far as I know, it’s never been done and has been referred to by others as ‘the last great unclimbed icefall on Ben Nevis’.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vfH-qwjhm8k/USvGQp_TdbI/AAAAAAAADBI/89vU2rBHC54/s640/snotter+9.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vfH-qwjhm8k/USvGQp_TdbI/AAAAAAAADBI/89vU2rBHC54/s1600/snotter+9.jpg)
The Breneva Face of North East Buttress. Spot the line!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7KTkaWOkZ8/USvGJgHqb4I/AAAAAAAADAY/N3RLeNc3tFY/s640/snotter+4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7KTkaWOkZ8/USvGJgHqb4I/AAAAAAAADAY/N3RLeNc3tFY/s1600/snotter+4.jpg)
Burling up the overhanging wall to reach the final ice fangs.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vpzOYSP9j0s/USvGN5BYwII/AAAAAAAADAw/g4Z6W4vp1Vc/s640/snotter+7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vpzOYSP9j0s/USvGN5BYwII/AAAAAAAADAw/g4Z6W4vp1Vc/s1600/snotter+7.jpg)
Unfortunately, the day with Michael was rather abortive. For some reason, when I started to climb up the lower icy slabs, I could feel both my arms and leg muscles wanting to cramp up. I very rarely get cramp and hoped it would go away, but it got worse. In hindsight, I think that spending three hours scrubbing an unclimbed boulder the day before, and sweating my way up the approach with an oncoming virus may both have been the reasons. Anyway, we faffed about on the grooves below the ice for a bit and then abseiled off. I was eager to come back and try the route and thankfully Andy Nelson was up for heading up a couple of days later. After a rest day doing my coaching classes at the Ice Factor for the Fort William mountain festival, we headed up early to go for it. The weather was perfectly still and sunny and I felt much better.
And so it went. The main pitch started with 20 metres of technical groove climbing on thin ice and the odd good hook. From here, a ramp led out left underneath the left hand fang of ice which does occasionally touch down. If you catch it touching down and the ice fills the groove too, it would be a mega VI,6 similar to The Shroud on Carn Dearg. But without the ice touching down, overhanging cracks leading towards the right hand icicle were the only way to go up. I tussled up these, struggling a wee bit to see which way to go and getting pumped. Because I don't have my usual base of route fitness, I'm in a strange no mans land of not being unfit enough to fall off, but not fit enough to be totally 'on top' of the climbing. That made for a good experience.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hoAGKRc-T_0/USvGG_aQ6FI/AAAAAAAADAM/2UZyt1YBrMo/s640/snotter+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hoAGKRc-T_0/USvGG_aQ6FI/AAAAAAAADAM/2UZyt1YBrMo/s1600/snotter+2.jpg)
When I finally did get within touching distance of the icicle, I subconsciously based a lot about my commitment to the ice on how it felt on the first swing of the tool onto it. The ice 'boomed' a little but seemed OK so I quickly swung onto it and raced for the top, stopping to de-pump halfway up so I could really enjoy the position. It could have been quite different as when Andy followed, his first swing into the icicle broke off a large chunk of it. I think I'd have been less relaxed if that had happened with me. As far as we know, it's a first ascent. It felt about VIII,8 although it could be at the higher end of that grade? It's also one of the best winter climbs I've done on the Ben.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPwFh0q-1o8/USvGM0Oze2I/AAAAAAAADAo/DSPoRKc_lis/s640/snotter+5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPwFh0q-1o8/USvGM0Oze2I/AAAAAAAADAo/DSPoRKc_lis/s1600/snotter+5.jpg)
The solid river Nevis today, near Steall.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UwJCjyb8wPI/USvGK0OPIVI/AAAAAAAADAg/6y6Qx_1TGcA/s640/snotter+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UwJCjyb8wPI/USvGK0OPIVI/AAAAAAAADAg/6y6Qx_1TGcA/s1600/snotter+3.jpg)
Dan cleaning new problems, new boulder in Glen Nevis today.
Today saw some great new problems get done after a monster cleaning. I'll take some pictures of them next time. I did the problems almost in the dark since we were brushing for a lot of the afternoon. The boulder has probably 15 problems to do from Font 5 to 8A+ on the usual lovely honeycomb Glen Nevis schist. I hope my arms aren't too tired for tomorrows session back on the Ben. Off to sleep!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JjeXI3-H8Ek)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Recent adventures on rock (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JjeXI3-H8Ek/the-snotter-and-other-recent-adventures.html)
4 March 2013, 1:31 am
During the past three weeks, life has been progressively more manic, as is normal in Lochaber at this time of year. Usually in February, the weather gets amazing for almost all types of climbing, and this season has been especially good. Trying to get anything else done apart from new routes is quite a challenge and usually involves late nights and early starts. Maybe the rain will return by March and I’ll take a rest day?!
When I got home from Spain, I was pretty keen to get into the hills. I started off with a day on the Ben with Kev and could hardly walk the next morning. However, my ankle seemed to continue to adapt and I went back up a couple more times. Since both of us were only really able to walk short distances with big packs, we opted for the CIC hut cascades. Kev cruised the icefall.
Next up I went to a ridiculous boulder roof in the glen. It’s quite low to the ground and fully horizontal. An acquired taste maybe - a bit like a darker version of the darkness cave in Magic Wood. There’s 25 feet of horizontal climbing on brutal crimps in there, with three logical starts. The shortest link will be Font 8aish and the full trip looks like solid Font 8b+. I couldn’t imagine doing it at the moment, but I did do about half the moves on my first session.
I’ve also been trying a bit of running with mixed results. I did some trail and hill runs up to 12 miles and was getting on fine. Then one evening I did some short fast sections since it was already getting dark after the climbing. I misjudged the angle of a boulder on the trail and hit the ‘no go zone’ in my ankle hard and let out a yelp. It’s been worse ever since, which is rather depressing. I can’t really do much except hope I’ve not done more damage. Not good.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbtN9gIE24U/USv9DQTs6wI/AAAAAAAADB8/_v7QbbSU9ZA/s640/ardverikie.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbtN9gIE24U/USv9DQTs6wI/AAAAAAAADB8/_v7QbbSU9ZA/s1600/ardverikie.jpg)
Ardverikie deer forest. Here be boulders...
The next day I was getting pain even walking which put a downer on an otherwise great day out in Ardverikie Forest returning to a boulder I’d found on a run two years ago. I went to look at a roof that I’d estimated about Font 8b. But to actually try, it felt way harder. I pretty much gave up, although to be fair I wasn't in the most positive frame of mind, and the easterly was biting cold. It was a series of savage first joint undercuts in a roof with microscopic granite crystals level with your head for feet. A bit like doing harder versions of the Hubble undercuts crux about 5 times in a row. Maybe I’ll make a model on my board and try it once more in the spring.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPwFh0q-1o8/USvGM0Oze2I/AAAAAAAADAo/DSPoRKc_lis/s640/snotter+5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPwFh0q-1o8/USvGM0Oze2I/AAAAAAAADAo/DSPoRKc_lis/s1600/snotter+5.jpg)
The solid river Nevis today, near Steall.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UwJCjyb8wPI/USvGK0OPIVI/AAAAAAAADAg/6y6Qx_1TGcA/s640/snotter+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UwJCjyb8wPI/USvGK0OPIVI/AAAAAAAADAg/6y6Qx_1TGcA/s1600/snotter+3.jpg)
Dan cleaning new problems, new boulder in Glen Nevis today.
Today saw some great new problems get done after a monster cleaning. I'll take some pictures of them next time. I did the problems almost in the dark since we were brushing for a lot of the afternoon. The boulder has probably 15 problems to do from Font 5 to 8A+ on the usual lovely honeycomb Glen Nevis schist. I hope my arms aren't too tired for tomorrows session back on the Ben. Off to sleep!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JjeXI3-H8Ek)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Winter, dry, both or none? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mCyABx3G3gM/winter-dry-both-or-none.html)
4 March 2013, 2:08 am
Obviously, the dry tooling route I did on the CIC cascades under the Ben Nevis north face last week was going to provoke a bit of debate. In my mind it’s perfectly suited to climbing in this style and it’s no threat to the traditional Scottish winter routes because it’s so clearly different from them. It did make me wince when I saw UKclimbing.com include a Scottish winter grade in their headline reporting the route. I didn’t give it a Scottish grade for a good reason! I should have seen that coming I guess, although it was hard to foresee that a casual comment by me comparing it to a similar piece of climbing terrain with a winter grade would mean folk would then take this one as a winter route. A bit like saying an E8 trad route has 7c+ climbing - it’s still different from a bolted 7c+! This seemed to fuel a bit of debate about how it related to the traditional winter climbing game. To me, it’s totally clear the route is a tooling route, not a Scottish winter route. Clear and simple.
Some folk argued that maybe it should be left alone in case it dilutes the Scottish winter conditions ethic. I personally don’t agree with this. My feeling is that a one size fits all ethic for anything climbed is unnecessarily simplistic. It’s a shame not to climb that crack just because it doesn’t get rimed up. It’s an excellent climb.
More so than any other climbing discipline, Scottish winter climbing seems to be awful scared of losing what we have. Of course it’s special and worth defending. Perhaps because I like going for the steepest routes I’ve spent more than my fair share of days walking in and turning on my heel because the project is not white enough. It’s natural to resist any changes (even if they are only additions) to the status quo, but not always good. Balanced against the fear of losing what we have must be a fear of losing what we could have. To me, the diversity of British climbing has always been it’s greatest asset. A strict and narrow focus on what can be climbed with tools is a strength in upholding a strong ethic, but a weakness in undermining the diversity of climbs that can be done. I just don’t see that the threat to the Scottish conditions ethic is real. Rather than diminished over the years I have been a climber, I feel it has strengthened. The ethic is so strong, it has room to accept some ‘outliers’. However, that is of course just an opinion of one and may be outweighed by those of others, which is no problem. If other folk thought the tooling route was a good idea, very few have come out and said so.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-StjzIdQ62cA/UTP-53iiA5I/AAAAAAAADDA/pMCUEJcRDqc/s640/snotterice.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-StjzIdQ62cA/UTP-53iiA5I/AAAAAAAADDA/pMCUEJcRDqc/s1600/snotterice.jpg)
Winter condition or not? What do you think?
A further interesting twist came when the other new route I wrote about (The Snotter) was questioned for not being in winter condition. I must say that took me seriously by surprise. I’ve done plenty of mixed routes that were on the borderline, but it didn’t enter my head that this one wasn’t in good condition. Simon Richardson wrote a particularly below the belt post on his blog which is here (http://www.scottishwinter.com/?p=3599). For some reason he didn’t mention my name in it, and is was a little weird that he wrote such strong words and then reported another new route of mine in the very next post. Anyway, the reason it took me so by surprise was the focus on the section of overhanging wall to get between the ice grooves below and the hanging icicle above. I deliberately went on the route because the recent sunny conditions has been good for helping the grooves below the icicles to become iced. In the 55 metre crux pitch, around 47 metres was climbed on water ice, with 6 metres crossing a grossly overhanging wall underneath the roof to get to the icicle. The 30 metres of grooves below the roof were climbed on ice, initially stepped iced slabby ledges, then a thin ice smeared rib and groove, apart from a few hooks on the right of the ice. Once on the icicle, there was a long section (15 metres at least) before the angle even started to lie back.The downside of this mix of conditions was that the overhanging wall itself was pretty dry. My thinking was that this is par for the course for this type of route. The sun helps more ice form, but at the expense of the rime. My interpretation (which may be ‘wrong’ if such a judgement can truly be made) of Scottish winter conditions is that basically the route must be wintery in appearance. If it was nearly all dry mixed with a little ice, it would be outside that definition and I would have come back another time. But the reality was the pitch was nearly all ice with a short section of dry rock.
A central view in my own new route climbing has always been that I don’t want it to be at the expense of anyone else, even if I don’t agree with their position or motives. Clearly, some folk feel that way. So I have taken away my blog post about the routes and recommend that folk forget about them, if that is what they want to do. They still exist of course, in my memory as great days out and two of the most fun climbs I’ve done in a while. Nothing more ultimately matters. Anyone else is welcome to climb them as first ascents if they feel those ascents are more worthy.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mCyABx3G3gM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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More great weather and new routes (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/FJKoqyCzVbc/more-great-weather-and-new-routes.html)
4 March 2013, 2:10 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJLaKIlpNtM/UTP-53LgBrI/AAAAAAAADDE/cUMvBBnTykE/s1600/with+Helen.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CJLaKIlpNtM/UTP-53LgBrI/AAAAAAAADDE/cUMvBBnTykE/s1600/with+Helen.jpg)
Nice new route on Ben Nevis, climbed with Helen last week. Once again I was feeling a bit jaded after cleaning new boulder problems the day before, so it was nice to give the legs a workout instead. My ankle seemed to handle the strenuous bridging ok. However, there were some positions it just didn’t like, so I ended up using the old knees a fair bit!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/FJKoqyCzVbc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Perfect bouldering day (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZxBrhEefuH8/perfect-bouldering-day.html)
4 March 2013, 2:17 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lb7B5FGI5no/UTP-5YW-1uI/AAAAAAAADC8/43IASi1S98M/s640/gorge+boulder.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Lb7B5FGI5no/UTP-5YW-1uI/AAAAAAAADC8/43IASi1S98M/s1600/gorge+boulder.jpg)
Mega new boulder in Glen Nevis which I’ve given a good clean and opened 6 new problems in the easy to mid grades so far. ten minutes walk from the road, yet in complete solitude. I filmed some of them too and will make a wee video and topo shortly. Now the easy ones are done, time to work on the harder ones. This really was a perfect climbing day, great temperatures, great sights and sounds of nature all around, and great climbing. Bouldering above uneven landings was still feeling more like soloing for me right now though. But I am getting slightly more confident. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZxBrhEefuH8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Gorge boulder video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qKA37DaGJ8I/gorge-boulder-video.html)
6 March 2013, 11:08 am
As promised, here is a wee video to show you the problems I did on the Gorge Boulder in Glen Nevis the other day. These were just filmed by myself with the camera on tripod, but hopefully they serve to show you what’s on offer up the glen that’s off the beaten track from the established boulders.
To get to the boulder, park at the Steall car park at the road end. Walk up the Steall path for a few hundred metres to where it starts to steepen a bit. If you look directly across the river, you’ll see the boulder in the trees at the same level on the other side. The river is best crossed quite high up, not far below where it bends round into the gorge where it widens with plenty of boulders to hop. If the river is really high after rain, you might have to walk from Paddy's Bridge (the wooden bridge a km short of the car park). Approach takes 10-15 mins. Get there before the midges do.
There’s more to be done on the boulder. Feel free to bring a rope and wire brush and put in a few hours. Oh, and take the grades as very rough guides - I've been out of the loop of repeating boulder for a long time so I have no clue if they are even close. BTW after being closed for ages, Cafe Beag in the glen is open every day this year from 8-6. Pretty good place for fuelling up or waiting for rain to stop etc. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qKA37DaGJ8I)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Left Edge Route on the Ben (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/4jqcitD8R_c/left-edge-route-on-ben.html)
6 March 2013, 11:32 am
(http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/426461_10151494917181418_2013627312_n.jpg) (http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/426461_10151494917181418_2013627312_n.jpg)
Helen, Harry and I headed back up Observatory Gully to find something nice to climb, with no particular plan. We kept going higher and higher in the hope of finding something mixed in good condition, until we found ourselves standing underneath Gardyloo Buttress. Funnily enough, there was a roof up that way I wanted to look at, but it had no ice on until the lip. So we opted for something more slabby and had a chilled ascent of Left Edge Route (VI,5). The ice was a bit unreliable, and protection pretty bad, so it was a good idea to keep the weight on the feet. Thankfully, once over the steepness there was solid ice and a cruise to the top. On the way down there was talk of rock climbing.. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/4jqcitD8R_c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering with Flo (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MWs5AcukT_o/bouldering-with-flo.html)
7 May 2013, 12:26 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2FGgP5a0ze0/UYbJ8gt1QoI/AAAAAAAADD0/J4dAk1OSHdU/s640/flo+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2FGgP5a0ze0/UYbJ8gt1QoI/AAAAAAAADD0/J4dAk1OSHdU/s1600/flo+2.jpg)
The Mission 7B, Torridon
Flo from the Mountain Equipment team was over for a few days. The weather was perfect and we had our pick of disciplines (providing we didn’t mind getting cold). Flo was keen to boulder, so we headed to Torridon, the Arisaig Cave and Glen Nevis. It was quite strange for me to visit some of these favourite old haunts of mine with someone else. Normally you won't see another soul at most highland bouldering venues.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K1NR3mY1Xco/UYbJ7waIebI/AAAAAAAADDo/xqGZpYR44og/s640/flo+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K1NR3mY1Xco/UYbJ7waIebI/AAAAAAAADDo/xqGZpYR44og/s1600/flo+%25281%2529.jpg)
Flo enjoying Inward Bound 7B, the classic of the Arisaig Cave.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRvKqQpJRkg/UYbJ8OLbNfI/AAAAAAAADDs/Cc5H9wZyS3c/s640/flo+1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qRvKqQpJRkg/UYbJ8OLbNfI/AAAAAAAADDs/Cc5H9wZyS3c/s1600/flo+1.jpg)
Flo begins the crux swing on Under the Hat 7C, Heather Hat Boulder, Glen Nevis
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I1IUAec-52Q/UYbKFpGhXJI/AAAAAAAADEU/tWQVLtJgulM/s640/flo+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I1IUAec-52Q/UYbKFpGhXJI/AAAAAAAADEU/tWQVLtJgulM/s1600/flo+3.jpg)
Flo clinging to the ship boulder (The Mission 7B), Torridon.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TopG62PwHtY/UYbKCq1PFsI/AAAAAAAADEM/dsw8IhKsq0E/s640/flo.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TopG62PwHtY/UYbKCq1PFsI/AAAAAAAADEM/dsw8IhKsq0E/s1600/flo.jpg)
Eyeing up the next edge on A Bridge too far 8A, Torridon.
I hadn't visited the Arisaig Cave for 2 years because I'd basically run out of projects. The one great line still to do there just seemed too hard last time I was there. But having a look at it (As in standing on the ground, just looking, as I still had only one functional leg) I decided that I really ought to return for another scrap with it. Likewise in Torridon I discovered a couple of great lines to go back for soon.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MWs5AcukT_o)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Work has been done (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mkg9IpEHzwM/work-has-been-done.html)
7 May 2013, 12:33 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-V-gCaqaMs/UYbJ_wVTT_I/AAAAAAAADEE/TikW6mj5_TE/s640/flo+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9-V-gCaqaMs/UYbJ_wVTT_I/AAAAAAAADEE/TikW6mj5_TE/s1600/flo+4.jpg)
Work has been done. Everything looks better, apart from my work gloves.
About 4 years ago I had a similar break in blogging for two or three months. The common reason was primarily moving house. I am moving house shortly, and with it comes the need to do shed loads of work. After work, climbing and family time, there is little time left over. However, the physical work tasks that need done are only half the story.
Usually, it coincides with a larger transition in life, moving on to a new chapter. So in all aspects of life, there are old things and ideas to let go of and new things to grapple with. Such has been the last three months for me.
I’ve done this a few times now. So although it’s a scary process, I tend to grab it with both hands since it’s important. Since completing a lot of huge climbing goals over the past few years, I enjoyed a good bit of just going with the flow, choosing what to climb based purely on what the weather is doing or what friends suggest.
I visited some new climbing areas. After spending last spring in Switzerland I chose to stay at home this year which was a good choice since it didn’t rain for two months! I put good few days into preparing for a cool climbing enchainment idea I’ve had. I was in good shape for it and really psyched, but sadly the weather just didn’t play the game. Either the winter routes were white but the rock routes wet or vice versa. Such is the gamble. It was worthwhile to do the prep since I now know that I can do it. I might try another enchainment with only rock routes which will be a bit less weather dependent in the short term.
I went to some new boulders, climbed new problems and went on some sick hard projects I knew about. 2 of them I have sacked off because they are nasty with horrible moves on sharp holds. One of them is getting me more psyched. It’s a bit weird as it’s a horizontal roof which is low to the ground. But it’s really hard and all the moves go. I’ll keep trying that until the midge arrives. There’s another few really good boulder projects I know about but have yet to visit. It's been a lot of pure climbing, just going out on my own, in nice places
I tried to go trad climbing, but it was freezing. Every time I take a rope to go climbing lately it seems to start snowing. Winter is taking a long time to give in in Scotland. Yesterday (May 2nd) it was still snowing on Rannoch Moor and I see yet more fresh snow on the hills this morning. The other day I sat for the whole evening making a new list of mountain crag projects to try when the May sunshine finally arrives. I can’t wait until I get the chance to start afresh on some mountains and islands I’ve never been to. But for now, the trad season is still a list on my notepad.
Sport climbing has also commenced, with a lot of hanging on the rope warming numb hands. I went back to Malc's 9a at the Anvil and seem to have finally figured out some beta that works for me after Malc turned the crux hold I used to dust, breaking it off when we were trying it 6 years ago now.
I also did some running. Not a lot really, but some. And I was enjoying it a lot. My troublesome ankle hurt, as expected. So I might have to take a break from that again. This made me somewhat depressed for a while. Speaking of injuries, A little setback came when I was doing a deep drop knee on my board at home. I’d just had a brilliant session and felt strong for the first time in months and ‘crack’ went my MCL and hamstrings tendon in my knee. Partial tears. It could have been a lot worse. For ten minutes I thought I was in ACL and meniscus hell. 10 days off running and 14 off climbing were all that was necessary, although I still can’t quite burl down on a heelhook just yet. The lesson? Dropknees are still my favourite move, but they are dangerous. Be careful.
I spent the time off building steps, walls, paths, sheds, floors etc at my house to get it ready to sell. Mixing cement gives you big shoulders and helps you sleep at night. Well, unless you are still mixing another mix at 3am.
During all these adventures, I went through a bit of a low. I realised that some things in my routine have to change. It’s not to say that what I was doing was bad - I’ve just completed that stage. I badly need some new badass projects to work on. My friend Nick Dixon used to say he needed a big project every 5 years. I don’t last so long! I have some good trips planned for later this year, but I’m rubbish at training for distant trips. So now that I have sorted out some goal routes, I can prepare for them much better.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mkg9IpEHzwM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Nevis Landscape (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/CzmXee9LexU/nevis-landscape.html)
8 May 2013, 10:18 pm
Nevis Landscape Partnership film with Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/63811824) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Who looks after and somewhere as special as Ben Nevis and Glen Nevis? It’s not something that we’re always constantly aware of. Whatever special mountain areas you visit, you might only see the mountains and not all the work that keeps them as they are.
But you’d soon notice if all the tons of litter dropped on Ben Nevis every year was allowed to accumulate, or if the paths were allowed to disintegrate into sprawling scarred muddy bogs. Or if poor planning allowed some rather ill advised developments to permanently change the shape and look of the area. And then there's all the things you might not immediately notice, but are just as important, such as the changes in which plant and animal species thrive as the environment changes. Although the untrained eye might not see that sort of thing, it's obvious to everyone that the place is full of life and that is what makes it great. If that was threatened it would be pretty important.
For many years, the Nevis Partnership took on the role of looking after the Nevis area. For various reasons, the organisation has evolved into the Nevis Landscape Partnership who will be doing lots of good projects in the coming years to help us all enjoy the place and keep it as good as it is.
We made a short film for them through the lens of my involvement with the place. It’s just meant to let you know that the NLP are there and that there are many fields of interest which you might want to get involved in, if you like. Their Facebok page is here. (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Friends-of-Nevis/190762160951747)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/CzmXee9LexU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Dave film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/g4DaZ69nRGc/dave-film.html)
9 May 2013, 10:28 pm
DAVE (with Dave MacLeod) (http://vimeo.com/59741570) from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT (http://vimeo.com/mountainequipment) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/).
Since I’ve been out of the blogging loop for a bit, this is a bit late and you might already have seen it. Anyway, below is a film that Polished Project made about me. It’s not so much about a specific climb or anything, although there is some footage of me climbing some classic hard problems at Magic Wood. It’s really about ideas of mine and quite important things I’ve learned over almost 20 years of climbing.
I suppose the central idea underlying everything Im saying in the film is that I learned the things I did through not being naturally suited to climbing as youngster, but very naturally suited to spotting the patterns behind others apparent talents and trying to copy them.
Thanks to Mountain Equipment who supported the film. I’ve been working with ME for ten years - about half the time I’ve been a climber. So they have been quite a big part of my life as a climber.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/g4DaZ69nRGc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New stuff in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xmzU1g1-8XU/new-stuff-in-shop.html)
13 May 2013, 2:00 pm
We’ve just added three new books to the shop, all very different.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/theboulder.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/theboulder.html) First up is The Boulder by Francis Sanzaro, published by the Stone Country Press. What does it mean for us to be involved in bouldering? How does it’s movement and sporting challenges relate to other activities like Parkour, dance, gymnastics, martial arts, or even art disciplines like painting. Are you doing it to engage in a sport? Simply play on rocks? Compete with others? Enjoy movement. Possibly all of these and many more reasons besides.
The boulder explores the philosophy of bouldering, what it can mean for boulderers and how we can use and examination of this to improve both our bouldering and what we take from it. For many readers, discovering bouldering will no doubt have changed your life. But surely starting out in a new found activity isn’t the end of the story? There are many life changes to be found as you learn more and more about what bouldering is doing for you. I would expect most readers to be helped along this path. It’s in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/theboulder.html).
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/fiva.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/fiva.html) Next is Fiva by Gordon Stainforth, which is only recently out but fast accumulating a big reputation for a brilliant read. Gordon was previously more famous for his excellent photography books. Eyes to the Hills was one of the first mountain books I borrowed from my library as a 15 year old novice climber. We don’t tend to get many mountaineering stories in the shop, but Gordon’s big win with this book at the Banff Mountain festival in November prompted us to check it out and we were impressed. I won’t say too much about it other than it describes a death-on-a-stick epic on Troll Wall in Norway. If you know anything about how serious the Troll Wall is, the Fiva route sounds particularly toe-curling just to read about. Much recommended by us if you like reading about proper adventures. It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/fiva.html)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/scottishsportclimbs.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/scottishsportclimbs.html) Finally, and with some satisfaction I can finally report that we have the first stock of the new Scottish Sport Climbs guidebook by the SMC. I wrote a reasonable chunk of the text myself, and since I first had a draft of ‘my’ crags completed in November 2004, I can appreciate as much as anyone how long it’s been in coming. A more substantial introduction to the book is coming in another post in a minute, but for now the book is in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/scottishsportclimbs.html) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xmzU1g1-8XU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Scottish Sport Climbs guide is here (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/RxYqyepOeuw/scottish-sport-climbs-guide-is-here.html)
13 May 2013, 3:05 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/scottishsportclimbs.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/scottishsportclimbs.html) Finally, we have the first stock of the new Scottish Sport Climbs guidebook by the SMC. It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/scottishsportclimbs.html) It has certainly been a long time coming. I first submitted a draft of the sections I wrote in November 2004! A lot of bolts have appeared across the lowlands, highlands and islands since then, so the book is a lot fatter than it would’ve been if it had been released at that time. So the wait has an upside.
Flicking through the guide as I took it out of the box, I was struck by the great selection of sport crags all over the country now. There are 1300 routes in the guide, on 100 crags. Who out of the slightly older generation of Scottish climbers would’ve thought we would have 1300 sport climbs in Scotland. That’s great! As you’d expect from an SMC guidebook it’s a nicely produced book with careful descriptions, good maps and plenty of nice pictures to inspire. So many of Scotland’s new routing activists have been very energetic over the past decade and the options now available for routes to enjoy has basically exploded. Now, there are sport crags for us to visit no matter what corner of Scotland you find yourself in or fancy travelling to. Also, the diversity of locations mean that I can’t see many days of the year where there won’t be some dry rock on which to clip bolts somewhere in the land.
Kudos to all who made the effort to open new sport routes, as well as all the authors and producers of the guide. It is so badly needed. Talking to the new generation of young sport climbers coming into climbing through Scotland’s climbing walls, it frequently nagged at me that so many are unaware of the lovely crags that are out there. Some of them in stunning, wild and far flung locations like Gruinard in the north west. Some of them just up the road from our major towns and cities.
The guidebook pictures brought back some nice memories for me of places like Dunglas just outside Glasgow, where I did my first 6b (Negotiations With Isaac)and 6c+ (The Beef Monster). I remember being very excited when Andy Gallagher asked me to give him a belay on the first ascent of Persistence of Vision (7a+) after watching him bolt it. A year after my first 6c+, my first 7c+ (Dum Dum Boys) was a liberating experience and straight away I wanted to get to the ‘happening crags’ of the day.
I found myself at Steall for the first time shortly afterwards, abseiling down Cubby’s project (Ring of Steall 8c+) and being totally inspired by how poor the holds were. The whole ambience of hard physical climbing in beautiful highland surroundings was where it was at for me. So in the following years, we made after school/uni/work hits from Glasgow to Glen Ogle, Dunkeld and Loch Lomondside sport crags, with weekend trips to Tunnel Wall, Steall, Weem and the Angus Quarries.
Once I got involved in exploring new routes, under the influence of Dave Redpath and Michael Tweedley, I immensely enjoyed tearing about bendy roads in Argyll developing crags like Tighnabruaich and eventually the Anvil.
One thing that I like about Scottish sport climbing particularly is that the easier graded routes in the 6s and 7s are often so much better to climb than those on the continent. In Spain or suchlike, the majority of the time, the hard routes on big overhanging sweeps of limestone are the most inspiring lines, while the easier lines can sometimes be either a bit scrappy or, dare I say it, a little boring. As with our trad, the variety of rock types we have in Scotland often make for much nicer routes in the lower and mid grades too. However, if you are into hard stuff, the two hardest routes in the book (Hunger, 9a and Fight The Feeling, 9a) give as good climbing as you’ll get anywhere. Both were climbed in good conditions in the summer and you wont find any queues or some barky dog wondering about eating your lunch at the base of the crag. The only negative on offer from Scottish sport climbing is, of course, the midge. Just remember that the wind direction is as important as the rain when you look at the forecast. Choose a crag exposed to a breeze on the day, and you’re sorted.
Enjoy the guide, enjoy the climbing. It’s here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/scottishsportclimbs.html) Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/RxYqyepOeuw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Arisaig Cave revisited (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wg_f-ePAiGY/arisaig-cave-revisited.html)
15 May 2013, 7:08 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kaDtlkW93IY/UZPb5znYT_I/AAAAAAAADIo/rQWCPecEW5Q/s640/arisaigcave+6.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kaDtlkW93IY/UZPb5znYT_I/AAAAAAAADIo/rQWCPecEW5Q/s1600/arisaigcave+6.jpg)
Getting a full body workout on the project, Arisaig Cave
In 2011 I last visited the Arisaig Cave and kind of felt I’d run out of things to do there. There was one big line left for me to do, a fantastic line following undercuts up a big diagonal flange in the middle of the cave. However, after a play I just couldn’t figure out how to make the feature work as a hold and gave up. It was just too hard for me.
It was only when I showed the palce to Flo last month I had another look and had an idea for a sequence that could work. I’m glad I gave it another chance. On that day I couldn’t try it as I’d just injured my knee , but yesterday, I had a good session on it and did all the individual moves. There are no ‘low percentage’ move on it for me, but about 9 or 10 in a row that are all powerful on burly undercuts and pinches. So I have a feeling that trying to link them together will be a good workout.
The nice thing is, the normal start should go at something between 8A and 8B, but climbing into it from the cave entrance (about 30 moves of 8A+) will make a very fine climbing challenge indeed to keep me busy, and fit.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rp-hoItzyHc/UZPbubvZejI/AAAAAAAADIg/av4sCwW3_4M/s640/arisaigcave+5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rp-hoItzyHc/UZPbubvZejI/AAAAAAAADIg/av4sCwW3_4M/s1600/arisaigcave+5.jpg)
Short Side Traverse, low version F8a
Today, I feel like I’ve been dragged along a cobbled street on my back. But looking forward to getting back on it. While I was there I also did a great variation to the short side traverse. The original version (about F7c+ since it’s 15m long) goes quite high along a slopey break near the start. There was an obvious low version on fantastically shaped edges, rounded by the sea washing in winter storms of aeons ago. It sussed it out pretty quickly for my warm-up at about F8a. I’ll make up a proper topo for the place shortly. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wg_f-ePAiGY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Black Diamond video of Fight the Feeling (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/IpXwzSSVGTE/the-video-of-my-8c9a-from-last-autumn.html)
15 May 2013, 7:16 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TuefRSknLms/UZPddGzWibI/AAAAAAAADI4/Z_prvmtTUnQ/s640/Screen+Shot+2013-05-15+at+20.04.08.png) (http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/climbing2013/en_us/index.html)
The video of my 8c+/9a from last autumn ‘Fight the Feeling at Steall is now up on the Black Diamond digital catalogue here. (http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/climbing2013/en_us/index.html) It’s on page 9. While you are there you should check out some of the other videos and articles from fellow BD climbers. There are pretty damn good. My favourite has to be The Wheel of Life footage of James Kassay. Would LOVE to go there sometime soon. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/IpXwzSSVGTE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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More training ups and downs (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/CLwi1Li0rgU/more-training-ups-and-downs.html)
2 June 2013, 10:09 pm
My fortune over the past wee while hasn’t been great. I’m just back to being human after losing just short of 2 weeks in bed with a virus which floored me. Normally with most bugs I just reduce my training a bit and get some work done while I’m ill. This time I couldn’t do anything except lie in bed and shiver.
Not to dwell on the details. But it obviously meant no training was done apart from ab-busting cough workouts. After I finally exited the other side, I was overflowing with eagerness to get going again, so jumped straight back on my board and onto the trails. After three days straight of bouldering and running, I could feel every muscle in my body.
Unfortunately, on the 4th day I was booked to jog up Ben Nevis with Michael for the end of his city to summit race (swim the Forth at Edinburgh, cycle 110m to Glen Coe and then marathon finishing up and down Ben Nevis). On one hand, if it hadn’t been Michael’s race day, I would’ve probably moaned about just going to the kitchen to put the kettle on, never mind putting my running shoes on. On the other, if you can’t run up the Ben with a man who’s just come from Edinburgh under his own steam, it doesn’t look great, even if he is a machine.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/964314_10151716230559047_1747396036_o.jpg) (https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/964314_10151716230559047_1747396036_o.jpg)
So we had a nice jog up and it wasn’t so bad after all. Just inspiring. Over the past few months I have at various points given up on running due to continued ankle pain, only to start again a couple of weeks later. Changing my running gait to account for the ankle damage had caused knock on effects - an annoyed tibialis posterior tendon. It’s a bit of a tale of woe, but I’m beginning to think I could start a little gentle regular running again. Tomorrow I’ll maybe try something a little longer and see how it goes.
At the tail end of my virus I put in some productive days on my book, which inches ever closer to a finished first draft. Just a bit on shoulders and we’re done. Then on Friday I was at the opening of the new ice wall in the Snow Factor in Glasgow. It was pretty weird moving on ice and dry tooling boards. By the end of the day I was quite sad that winter is finally over. (http://www.heraldscotland.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/400xY/2013/5/21224480.JPG) (http://www.heraldscotland.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/400xY/2013/5/21224480.JPG)
In the coming week, I shall be climbing, running, route setting, book writing and then off for the first climbing trip of the summer. Exciting times! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/CLwi1Li0rgU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Coooold rock climbing (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/HNkTXMqkl44/coooold-rock-climbing.html)
2 June 2013, 10:11 pm
Little video by Hotaches and Epic TV with me climbing on a somewhat chilly day on some Glen Nevis classics and talking about British climbing. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/HNkTXMqkl44)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Great Arch, Pabbay, finally free (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/UwqbLEuvd24/the-great-arch-pabbay-finally-free.html)
2 July 2013, 1:00 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kffbXHzA8KI/UdFo4lOVzoI/AAAAAAAADLU/Gi3fEU8XYlc/s640/greatarch+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kffbXHzA8KI/UdFo4lOVzoI/AAAAAAAADLU/Gi3fEU8XYlc/s640/greatarch+2.jpg)
Donald King and myself, enjoying the boat ride back from Pabbay. The mugs were the boatman’s by the way.
June is often a time to get on a boat and go and find some amazing new sea cliff climbs to be done in the Hebrides. I’ve been lucky to have done more than my fair share over the past ten years. Yet they just keep coming! One place I’d never yet been was Pabbay. The obvious target was the Great Arch project.
The arch is of course the most striking and obvious challenge on the island. And like other lines of similar calibre such as the Longhope Route, it’s also going to be the hardest. Great! It was first tried by Cubby Cuthbertson and Lynn Hill while they were being filmed for a BBC TV programme in 1997. On that trip, the route didn’t go free although they did record it with a rest/aid point. With better weather and a bit more time, I’m sure they’d have done it. You don’t get a much stronger team that those two! Talking of strong teams, the next party to attempt it was Steve Mclure and Lucy Creamer a few years ago. Steve inspected the line on abseil (http://www.flickr.com/photos/dave_aberdeen_rock/4655740624/) and then made a great attempt to flash it (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55296), getting through the first crux. He fell in the roof, pulled back up to his highpoint on the rope and carried on to the end. He opted not to come back and make the free ascent. So, after all these years, it still needed doing. The projected grade I'd heard for the free ascent was E9 7a, but in the end E8 6c was more like it.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D3sFK8G_A2c/UdFlgwdukQI/AAAAAAAADJc/3oZedZ_NFP8/s640/Pabbay+2013+067.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D3sFK8G_A2c/UdFlgwdukQI/AAAAAAAADJc/3oZedZ_NFP8/s1600/Pabbay+2013+067.JPG)
That is a roof that needs climbing.
I headed over with Donald King to see if we could do it. We had a good window of time to cope with the usual sea cliff problems of sea spray dampness and bad weather. So I was quite relaxed and excited about getting on it. On our first day I abseiled down the crux top pitch through the huge horizontal roof. It was totally damp with sea spray so all I could do that day was pull on and try a few individual moves in the roof on the GriGri and then do the first couple of wet pitches for something to do, abseiling off into the sea around midnight in fading light.
Next day I waited until the evening to even go on it in the hope the sea spray might dry out a bit more. It was fortunately drier when I arrived. I went down and played about a bit more on the abseil rope for an hour or so and had that feeling that maybe I ought to stop there and have a good go at the whole route the next day (and last before a big rainy front arrived).
On day three we were disappointed to find the dreaded sea spray hanging like a mist under the great arch. It was a roasting hot sunny day, but the route was dripping. All we could do was lie and sleep in the sun on the hot boulders at the base for four hours. Hard life eh?
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-emyKy2OeZaI/UdFmEJxhs5I/AAAAAAAADJ8/7cgzcs3EoVM/s640/Pabbay+2013+114.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-emyKy2OeZaI/UdFmEJxhs5I/AAAAAAAADJ8/7cgzcs3EoVM/s1600/Pabbay+2013+114.JPG)
Pitch 2.
However, sunbathing was not what I traveled all that way for. So at around tea time, almost without speaking, we got ourselves together and just started going upwards. Pitches 1 and 2 round the first pitch flew by in minutes. The big third pitch was a grunt with still wet holds lurking in the big roof, but it also went fairly smoothly for both Donald and myself. The infamous offwidth slot of pitch 4 was only a few metres in length, but my first experience of ‘scapular walking’. I have no idea if that is a climbing technique, but it worked. Pitch 5 was the most gloriously exposed and finely positioned 5a pitch I’ve ever climbed. It was so relaxing. A cool breeze began to blow as I started it, and became more and more noticeable as I shuffled across the brilliant incut flakes of gneiss, a huge roof below my feet, another looming directly overhead.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ITapi8v-KFA/UdFlkuFw2YI/AAAAAAAADJs/Jo7chFYSAig/s640/Pabbay+2013+084.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ITapi8v-KFA/UdFlkuFw2YI/AAAAAAAADJs/Jo7chFYSAig/s1600/Pabbay+2013+084.JPG)
The roof of pitch 3 looming overhead. This pitch was about E5.
By the time I reached the belay below the crux 6th pitch through the great arch, the breeze was chilling me, and I could see the colour of the gniess turning before my eyes from a that familiar flat grey of dampness to the crisp white of dryness; and friction. It’s been a wee while since I’ve had that great feeling of ‘now is the time to go for it’. Simultaneously feeling a little queasy in the stomach, and anxious to release the physical energy and adrenaline which is bursting to get out.
The next thing I knew I was 10 metres up the pitch, leaning back with my hands off with double knee bars behind a huge undercut in the most outrageous position. The first crux was right above. A full stretch reach from the undercut to a tiny crimp and then a boulder problem to get to the break at the back of the arch itself. In the space of ten minutes I’d gone from a bag of nerves with a stomach full of butterflies, to feeling totally relaxed and just eager to go for it. So the first crux felt easy.
Unsurprisingly, the transition to completely horizontal roof climbing felt a bit of a shock to the system, and I fumbled with two cams, and then decided not to even bother with the third. I was getting too pumped. I got really excited about the next seconds as I’d find out whether I had enough power to do the crux, or fling myself into the huge space below and test the cams and wires in the creaky roof flake. So I realised I better move it before excitement turned to nerves. What followed was a classic climbing moment of a blur of slapping hands, quickly made up sequences on the hop when I did it all wrong, and a bit of aggression. In no time I found myself stood above the lip, panting to catch my breath.
The great thing about roof climbs is once you get over the lip, it’s usually over and you know it. All that was left was to fully soak up the spacey atmosphere as I abseiled back down to strip the roof and dangle around on the rope waxing about the route just climbed as the sun finally sunk into the sea.
After a 1am dinner of curry, rice pudding and cups of tea at the tents, the rain started. 36 hours or storm later, the back of the great arch had become a waterfall which would have taken days to dry out, and we got on an early boat home. On the ferry back from Barra, we were suitably inspired to seek out some more obvious great lines to point ourselves at in the Hebrides in the not too distant future. A good start to the summer, which has come seriously late in the highlands this year.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sDWiFJmQlgY/UdFmDytjHrI/AAAAAAAADJ4/-YWbr0jS18c/s640/Pabbay+2013+118.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sDWiFJmQlgY/UdFmDytjHrI/AAAAAAAADJ4/-YWbr0jS18c/s1600/Pabbay+2013+118.JPG)
Well happy abseiling back down to strip the runners from the roof.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jAHm1599rwU/UdFmpaclGRI/AAAAAAAADKc/vF2LFF5n4WA/s640/Pabbay+2013+121.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jAHm1599rwU/UdFmpaclGRI/AAAAAAAADKc/vF2LFF5n4WA/s1600/Pabbay+2013+121.JPG)
A happy rock climber
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cWFjELD9b2k/UdFnAXVoEcI/AAAAAAAADKk/FjxIv9Oc5PU/s640/Pabbay+2013+126.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cWFjELD9b2k/UdFnAXVoEcI/AAAAAAAADKk/FjxIv9Oc5PU/s1600/Pabbay+2013+126.JPG)
A still happy rock climber abbing in to do Prophesy of Drowning, E2, just before getting the boat home. If you climb E2, you must do this route.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_znUjPXxcQ/UdFnCgpgS-I/AAAAAAAADKs/CpmQbNNTCsU/s640/Pabbay+2013+127.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q_znUjPXxcQ/UdFnCgpgS-I/AAAAAAAADKs/CpmQbNNTCsU/s1600/Pabbay+2013+127.JPG)
Smiles are a running theme for rock climbers on Pabbay. It’s pretty good!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LGeMrcPUFpQ/UdFo5aLXl9I/AAAAAAAADLo/b3LsM70NKy0/s640/greatarch+4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LGeMrcPUFpQ/UdFo5aLXl9I/AAAAAAAADLo/b3LsM70NKy0/s640/greatarch+4.jpg)
Do you need any more convincing that Prophesy of Drowning is a very very good E2?
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FH0fy4EqEaw/UdFo4AntPUI/AAAAAAAADLs/c3GReg95-RQ/s640/greatarch+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FH0fy4EqEaw/UdFo4AntPUI/AAAAAAAADLs/c3GReg95-RQ/s640/greatarch+1.jpg)
Hebridean sunsets on the ferry home. A good moment to dream up new climbing plans.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/UwqbLEuvd24)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What ever happened to the west highland way race?
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Fucked knee.
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Still running, but not that much (ankle as well as knee IIRC), presuming he logs everything:
http://app.strava.com/athletes/1429933 (http://app.strava.com/athletes/1429933)
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Looks like he started, but only completed the first leg - http://www.westhighlandwayrace.org/downloads/2013splits.xls (http://www.westhighlandwayrace.org/downloads/2013splits.xls)
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Summer adventures (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EHDtMEr6bDc/summer-adventures.html)
24 July 2013, 2:48 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VF4sHKrSaNk/UdFo65aiQ6I/AAAAAAAADMI/waI9oiMnJxo/s640/torridon+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VF4sHKrSaNk/UdFo65aiQ6I/AAAAAAAADMI/waI9oiMnJxo/s1600/torridon+1.jpg)
Sticking to warm slopers on Pallet Knife, Font 7b+, Torridon
After I got back from Pabbay, there was only a few days before the West Highland Way race I had entered. I had spent most of the spring thinking there was no possibility whatsoever thatI’d be able to do it. My ankle had progressed a bit, then got worse, then much worse, then a bit better again. I’d get a few runs in for a couple of weeks, then have to stop for a few weeks, then attempt to start again.
My total mileage from January to the start of June was only just double the length of the race. Oh dear. However, during June I did manage a couple of weeks running 60 miles a week, so that was better than nothing. I mostly did shorter runs because that’s all my foot would allow me to. The longest was only 25 miles. But I could do 10K in under 40 minutes so I was definitely better than couch potato standard. I figured that even if I could only run 40 or 50 miles, I’d walk in the rest and call it a success under the circumstances.
However, on my last run before the race, I realised I was about to pay for trying to go from zero to fit in a few short weeks. The plantar fascia I tore in last year’s accident started to burn sharply and I knew it was over. Nevertheless, I showed up at the start line and ran the first 20 miles before limping into Balmaha, not leaving any doubt in my mind. I was upset. The experience has left a bigger scar in my mind than in my foot. Perhaps after another year, my foot will be in better form for running. At least I can give it a break and start from scratch again.
The trouble with these sorts of experiences is that they are a storm in a tea cup. In one part of your mind, it's really pretty upsetting. End of a little dream and all that. But to everyone else, it's no big deal. Life goes on. Lucky to be alive after the accident anyway etc.. All true. I guess I just haven't grown up enough to deal with such little frustrations. The scary thing is, I don't always feel like I want to.
So with that, my little diversion was consigned to the past, and two days later I was tied in at the foot of Conquistador E7 7a at the Loch Tollaidh crags. After a quick abseil brush and check of the gear, I decided to go for a flash attempt. I got through the initial boulder problem without any trouble. I felt pretty relaxed, and so I didn’t really notice the pump creeping in as I worked my way towards the second crux high on the route. This also went by without much trouble, but a sense of urgency suddenly hit me as I hung from a sloper trying to fiddle in a small RP. There were no footholds and so a bit of a grunt was required to pull over the final bulge into a face full of drizzle. The buzz was enough to clear some cobwebs and remind body and mind that it’s built for climbing steep rock.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JJPxFK2-K7A/UdFo7s-7rRI/AAAAAAAADMA/CuzqqqDEihQ/s640/torridon+3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JJPxFK2-K7A/UdFo7s-7rRI/AAAAAAAADMA/CuzqqqDEihQ/s1600/torridon+3.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q26PZQJrDJc/UdFo8lSSrTI/AAAAAAAADMU/j-lxzzv2veM/s640/torridon+4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q26PZQJrDJc/UdFo8lSSrTI/AAAAAAAADMU/j-lxzzv2veM/s1600/torridon+4.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bQ4Gf9jeOtU/UdFo9BGmoLI/AAAAAAAADMM/KICTzKy2Dvw/s640/torridon+5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bQ4Gf9jeOtU/UdFo9BGmoLI/AAAAAAAADMM/KICTzKy2Dvw/s1600/torridon+5.jpg)
Alicia enjoying some perfect sandstone in Glen Torridon
The following day myself and Alicia toured the lovely sandstone of Torridon and worked projects in the Arisaig Cave. I went back just afterwards and found a kneebar which changed a Font 8a project into another classic 7Cish (it was pretty damp when I did it so maybe it’s be easier in fresh weather).
After that, A period of three difficult weeks began. More about that in a separate post.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EHDtMEr6bDc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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First Alpine route - Paciencia 8a, Eiger nordwand (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/y4Y_xFxa_FE/first-alpine-route-paciencia-8a-eiger.html)
18 August 2013, 12:03 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FytsRXb-HgA/UhCxyAm0AwI/AAAAAAAADOI/VTGpC3okuHo/s640/20130815-paciencia-wide-882.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FytsRXb-HgA/UhCxyAm0AwI/AAAAAAAADOI/VTGpC3okuHo/s1600/20130815-paciencia-wide-882.jpg)
On the crux of Paciencia, Eiger north face. All photos thanks to the talented Alexandre Buisse (http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/)
June and July were some of the most busy and challenging days of my life, none of which involved any climbing. The death of my father Norman was not a good time. Not wishing to talk about it much more on this, my climbing blog, all I should say is that at least I was able time to spend time with him first.
There wasn’t much time before other life events called for action. Claire, Freida and I moved house. Just ‘round the corner’ to Roybridge. We now have a great base for Freida growing up and it was a pleasure to put my back into working on it and preparing it for my family. Each day, I got up early, worked until the wee small hours and repeat…
So my planned trip to the alps with Calum Muskett (http://muskettmountaineering.co.uk/blog/blog-list.aspx) crept up on me. I’d done next to no climbing for several weeks with everything that had gone on. A few fingerboard sessions, a couple of TCA sessions, that’s it. I could still one arm a first joint edge. But endurance was nil.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3dTlEU0F0E/UhCxu2MhBnI/AAAAAAAADNo/dn6x--WSvtg/s640/20130814-paciencia-wide-568.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J3dTlEU0F0E/UhCxu2MhBnI/AAAAAAAADNo/dn6x--WSvtg/s1600/20130814-paciencia-wide-568.jpg)
Here mate, is that the Eiger?
When I started to drive south from the highlands, the extent of the problem with this started to dawn on me, since our discussed objectives were basically a list of the hardest routes in the alps. Top of the list was Paciencia, the hardest route on the north face of the Eiger. First freed in 2008 by Ueli Steck and then repeated just once by David Lama in 2011. Reading Lama’s blog (http://www.david-lama.com/en/news.html?tx_coonews_newsdetail%5Bnewsitem%5D=249&tx_coonews_newsdetail%5Baction%5D=detail&tx_coonews_newsdetail%5Bcontroller%5D=News&cHash=704c426f428125d4820eb9cac4d8f5cc) made me wince. He rated it one of the hardest routes in the alps and said he was utterly exhausted by the time he reached the top. Although the pitch grades don’t too bad; 6b, 6a, 6a+, 7c, 7c, 7a, 8a, 7a+, 6b+, 6a+, 6a+, 7c, 7c+, 7b, 7a, 6a, 7a+, 7c, 7a, 6c+, 6b, 6b, 6c+ Many of the pitches are tad on the sandbag side. For instance, one of the 6b+s we thought translated to E4 6b.
On paper it was completely ridiculous for me to go near it. However, predictably, after meeting Calum in Chamonix we decided in about 2 minutes we’d head straight to the Eiger for the first route. It would also be my first alpine route.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FFYYNhBW1vI/UhCxuTn47-I/AAAAAAAADNg/sjtcManGxkc/s640/20130814-paciencia-wide-744.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FFYYNhBW1vI/UhCxuTn47-I/AAAAAAAADNg/sjtcManGxkc/s1600/20130814-paciencia-wide-744.jpg)
Another great 7c pitch, full of north face atmosphere
A day later we were scrambling up the classic 1938 route to the foot of Paciencia. It was misty, damp and cold and after a drippy bivi I woke up ready to fail. Thankfully, our intention was just to have a recce and get our bearings on the Eiger. That day we hung about on the first few 7c and 8a pitches and I tried to give myself as big a workout as possible. I achieved that goal with ease.
I wasn’t sure about going back up. Perhaps it would be better to do a few easier routes first? I couldn’t think of a good way to even suggest that to Calum, who is already an accomplished alpinist, just a couple of years younger than me at 19. So we went back up, taking the photographer Alexandre Buisse with us for the first day. After soloing back up the 38 route in the afternoon we bagged the first few 7c pitches before dark and settled into our bivi, ready to go for the 8a in the morning. The morning however, was mostly spent melting snow to fuel some serious tea drinking on our ledge. Once we got started, we both dispatched the brilliant 8a pitch with much enjoyment. What an amazing pitch in spectacular surroundings.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwCxHFQBJjg/UhCxuRuKtsI/AAAAAAAADNk/IKWOKxSHbvg/s640/20130814-paciencia-wide-673.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fwCxHFQBJjg/UhCxuRuKtsI/AAAAAAAADNk/IKWOKxSHbvg/s1600/20130814-paciencia-wide-673.jpg)
Calum on the rather thin first 7c pitch
Our clear objective was for both of us to free the entire route with no falls, whether leading or seconding. All of the many 7b and 7c pitches were very hard to onsight, as we already knew from reading David Lama’s account. So we decided to give ourselves three full days to climb to the top since we would need the extra time for both of us to succeed on each of the 23 pitches. When we reached the second bivi below the Czech Pillar, we spent the following day both climbing the hard pitches that followed, before descending for one more night on the ledge. Both of us were tired that day, and I almost fell right at the end of a 7c+ pitch, where I knew Lama had also fallen. I knew I didn’t have the energy for another go within the hour, so I just held on like my life depended on it when a foothold broke 4 moves from the belay ledge. While Calum worked on the pitch, a helicopter appeared, hovering close by. The door opened and a long lens popped out and took some pictures of us. I thought to myself, that doesn’t happen in Scotland.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UiquPtcyhFQ/UhCxv4n6koI/AAAAAAAADN0/Sphh__HHpGU/s640/20130814-paciencia-wide-797.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UiquPtcyhFQ/UhCxv4n6koI/AAAAAAAADN0/Sphh__HHpGU/s1600/20130814-paciencia-wide-797.jpg)
8a, or more tea?
We rose at 6am the next morning both feeling rather better than anticipated. Just as well, since the first task was to jung and haul the bag back to our highpoint before commencing the final 8 pitches, including one more of those nasty 7cs right near the top. We both climbed strongly on that pitch and we carried on that momentum all the way to the end, pulling into sunshine at 6pm on the top. The crux was yet to come for me however. I’d had blisters on my toes from wearing boots that didn’t fit my feet on the recce day. Nearly 4 days in my rockshoes had made them considerably worse. The walk back down to Grindelwald was a teeth gritter. Of course, now I’m sitting in a cafe the next day, everything feels better.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1g9dBXiBLzY/UhCxxAmfOyI/AAAAAAAADOA/xjRqvc6Iw8c/s640/20130815-paciencia-wide-854.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1g9dBXiBLzY/UhCxxAmfOyI/AAAAAAAADOA/xjRqvc6Iw8c/s1600/20130815-paciencia-wide-854.jpg)
I learned a lot some new beta on big walling tactics from Calum, and was certainly inspired by his confidence, backed up with skill and problem solving ability. He took the route very much in his stride, as I’m sure he will many more harder routes. Thanks to Ueli Steck and Stefan Siegrist for opening the route. It must’ve taken a lot of effort.
So, where’s my boulder mat... Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/y4Y_xFxa_FE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Testing Gore-Tex Pro ME jackets on the Ben (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/EaThejpvOSk/testing-gore-tex-pro-me-jackets-on-ben.html)
1 September 2013, 2:38 pm
Why we use GORE-TEX® Pro (http://vimeo.com/72320856) from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT (http://vimeo.com/mountainequipment) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Some filming we did on Ben Nevis on the spring talking about why Mountain Equipment use Gore-Tex Pro for it’s shell jackets and how we dream up, design and test the jackets. Interesting to hear a bit more detail about the tech that goes into fabrics and jackets. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/EaThejpvOSk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Waiting to actually try on Bellavista (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/B1tqOR56bCk/waiting-to-actually-try-on-bellavista.html)
17 September 2013, 12:23 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XI3X-gHqxBc/UjhEkAm8SXI/AAAAAAAADPU/nfAvwuBfaEM/s640/bellavista+7.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XI3X-gHqxBc/UjhEkAm8SXI/AAAAAAAADPU/nfAvwuBfaEM/s1600/bellavista+7.jpg)
Last month after the Eiger I came to the Dolomites with Calum to have a go at Bellavista, Alex Huber’s famous 8c on the north face of Cima Ovest. We had one day on it when it was wet and then had to leave when faced with a forecast of a week of thunderstorms.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4on09e05pM/UjhEl9DAnjI/AAAAAAAADPg/Xmz7_In0iMM/s640/bellavista+8.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4on09e05pM/UjhEl9DAnjI/AAAAAAAADPg/Xmz7_In0iMM/s1600/bellavista+8.jpg)
Not liking being defeated, I hastily arranged a return in September for a long shot week on it with Alan Cassidy. A long shot because it might be getting a little cold by then for alpine north face 8c. The roof pitches on Bellavista suffer from dampness a lot. Sometimes, it’s just damp, and it’s ok for getting on it, if a little slippery. But this time it’s been just wet, soaking bloody wet. And when it's not wet, it's full on winter.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zqUHNzzcHzY/UjhEftb3z8I/AAAAAAAADO0/TfuM0Hql-EU/s640/bellavista+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zqUHNzzcHzY/UjhEftb3z8I/AAAAAAAADO0/TfuM0Hql-EU/s1600/bellavista+1.jpg)
On our first day it was actually a bit drier, but about minus 2 with a strong gusty wind bringing in some snow flurries. I went for a session in the roof and made a bit of progress even though I was shivering quite amusingly by the time I got back to the belay. Alan took one look at me from the comfort of the belay jacket and opted to go down. Sensible.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s-X94WtFDKA/UjhEfj7xlXI/AAAAAAAADOs/Jv5I86l7M6o/s640/bellavista+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s-X94WtFDKA/UjhEfj7xlXI/AAAAAAAADOs/Jv5I86l7M6o/s1600/bellavista+2.jpg)
After that it did warm up to around 3 or 4 degrees on the wall, but the warm humid air on freezing rock made it soaking. We opted to go up and do the 8a pitch above the 8c which we both could do pretty easily despite the wetness.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QgalH2lpgVs/UjhEgBfDtVI/AAAAAAAADO4/jSGx9v5wvFw/s640/bellavista+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QgalH2lpgVs/UjhEgBfDtVI/AAAAAAAADO4/jSGx9v5wvFw/s1600/bellavista+3.jpg)
Overnight and this morning the conditions have turned back to full on blizzards and so once again we are sitting it out. We have a couple more days but It’s looking almost certain that if it warms up again it’ll take longer than that for the slime to dry off that roof.
Nevermind, at least we have tried. And I have done a lot of writing...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YASMcsU2ldg/UjhEhskKbCI/AAAAAAAADPA/GM3kEIOF_6g/s640/bellavista+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YASMcsU2ldg/UjhEhskKbCI/AAAAAAAADPA/GM3kEIOF_6g/s1600/bellavista+4.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mqySCsQfkic/UjhEkEfcBdI/AAAAAAAADPM/RMm9-CnLRIw/s640/bellavista+5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mqySCsQfkic/UjhEkEfcBdI/AAAAAAAADPM/RMm9-CnLRIw/s1600/bellavista+5.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--gYzupKY_sE/UjhEk_tQChI/AAAAAAAADPY/ATBn4v_OPXI/s640/bellavista+6.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--gYzupKY_sE/UjhEk_tQChI/AAAAAAAADPY/ATBn4v_OPXI/s1600/bellavista+6.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/B1tqOR56bCk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bellavista on 3.5 limbs (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/V61n1ntouQY/bellavista-on-35-limbs.html)
22 September 2013, 10:27 pm
(http://alancassidyclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/2013-09-21-18-01-53-1.jpg) (http://alancassidyclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/2013-09-21-18-01-53-1.jpg)
Cold but happy climbers after Bellavista. Photo: Alan Cassidy (you should read his blog (https://alancassidyclimbing.wordpress.com/), it’s really good)
Before my ‘long shot’ trip to Bellavista with Alan Cassidy, I had a small hiccup. I was leading Hold Fast, Hold True (E9) in Glen Nevis a week before we were leaving and didn’t quite catch a hold right after the crux, slipping off and decking out from rather higher than one would like. I got away lightly, with quite nasty whiplash and a sprained left ankle. I was able to walk, well, between the kettle and the couch anyway. So I felt it wouldn’t be a problem for the upcoming trip.
I left it 5 days and then tried to get a couple of pre-trip training sessions in TCA before we left. To my dismay, I discovered that I couldn’t even nearly get a rockshoe on my fat, bruised foot. I had a session of one-footed traversing anyway and then went for an X-ray since things seemed to be getting more, not less painful. Sure enough, a couple of bone spurs that have restricted my left ankle dorsiflexion ever since I broke it in 1997 had broken off and are irritating my ankle joint. Some day surgery awaits. I’m quite looking forward to a couple of weeks of Beastmaker (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/beastmaker2000.html) abuse during the Lochaber monsoon next month.
By the day we left for Cima Ovest, I’d managed to walk round Morrison’s, take Freida to toddler group and lie on my side in bed without taking Tramadol first. Things were looking up!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RJ4OkwMNKEI/Uj8xVgcw1rI/AAAAAAAADQM/X_iWyqSCCQU/s640/bellavista+1+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RJ4OkwMNKEI/Uj8xVgcw1rI/AAAAAAAADQM/X_iWyqSCCQU/s1600/bellavista+1+%25281%2529.jpg)
Alan trying to get the psyche to rock climb in winter climbing conditions
As I wrote in my last blog, we then proceeded to spend most of the trip being hammered by crap weather. The route was soaking, it rained, snowed, snowed a lot more and then got windy and freezing. We tried to climb on the 8c pitch anyway, but both of us knew we were getting absolutely nowhere. We became totally set in the viewpoint that having been soaking all week, the chances of it drying out a bit in our remaining three days were zilch.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tkfy937Ypso/Uj8xWGbaJ4I/AAAAAAAADQQ/d-cjnLEUBAU/s640/bellavista+4+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Tkfy937Ypso/Uj8xWGbaJ4I/AAAAAAAADQQ/d-cjnLEUBAU/s1600/bellavista+4+%25281%2529.jpg)
Being practical, or venting wet weather frustration? You decide.
But it didn’t quite work out like that. On the third last day, I went out for a look on the 8c pitch first. The first half was still wet, but the second half was nearly dry, and I could link it to the belay straight away. Quite good. Alan went for his go and was also feeling like he could get to grips with the pitch a bit more. But then, as he was out of sight near the end of the pitch, I heard an “AAAAAGGHHH!”. The rope jerked momentarily tight, then suddenly slack again. Another loud scream and Alan appeared into view, dropping through space. He stopped, dangling at least 15 metres down in the void, with quickdraws sporting ripped pegs spinning down the rope towards him.
He was just sitting on a peg, brushing another damp hold when it ripped and the previous one ripped too. It must have been an exciting journey into space! After having a good laugh about Alan’s trip, we had a think about where this left us. There was now a big section near the end of the pitch with no gear in it. We were on budget flight mode and hadn’t been able to bring any pegs or aid gear in case we needed to re-equip.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3uzN_AwsT8/Uj8xVaxpymI/AAAAAAAADQE/O8IbN23WGZ4/s640/bellavista+2+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3uzN_AwsT8/Uj8xVaxpymI/AAAAAAAADQE/O8IbN23WGZ4/s1600/bellavista+2+%25281%2529.jpg)
In the end, we managed to borrow a hammer from the lovely folk at Rifugio Auronzo and I set up a tension traverse to back-aid and free climb back along from the next belay to the bit that needed re-equipping. I managed to get a sketchy cam in a pocket and gingerly sat on it and proceeded to fail to get the two ill fitting pegs to go in somewhere other than where they’d been before. After an hour, I had it sorted and the route was back online.
However, we had one day left. I just wanted to get the gear back and get home. Everything was wrong and I felt a bit fed up to be honest. My ankle hurt on the walk-in, I couldn’t do certain movements with it on the rock, I’d had my fill of climbing wet rock or frozen rock, we’d not had even one good day to try it properly. Worst of all, it was baltic.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZafQUVNVXQE/Uj9sV2JWy5I/AAAAAAAADQo/hQelms3MNJs/s640/bellavista9.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZafQUVNVXQE/Uj9sV2JWy5I/AAAAAAAADQo/hQelms3MNJs/s1600/bellavista9.jpg)
Shall we go climb an 8c north face route today?
We’d not seen a single other party climbing on the north faces all trip. I’m not surprised. On the last day we wandered up, both of us ready to strip it and get on our plane home. Alan climbed the first three pitches (7b, 6c+, 6a+) in one big pitch again. He was clearly struggling to get any feeling from fingers and toes. It was well below zero and blowing a bitter wind. Seconding him, I felt like a frozen robot, clawing up the rock with zero feedback from my digits. Leading the next two pitches (7a, 7a+) I still couldn’t even get my core warm despite climbing in my Arete jacket (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/the_gear/clothing/insulation/arete_jacket---572/). However, by the time a freezing Alan joined me, the wind had dropped a bit and I was feeling more myself with the full belay jacket and trousers armoury on.
I went out along the start of the 8c and was most surprised to find a special scenario of feelings come over me that doesn’t happen every day. The pitch was the driest it had been all trip. First, there was the sudden rushing feeling of being confident flowing through the moves rather than constantly expecting to ‘ping’ off wet holds. ‘I can still climb!’ Second, the ‘last day’ go for broke mentality clicked into place. When all the preparation has gone so badly, what do you have left except to see what can happen if you just don’t care anymore and go for a good fight with the pitch? Finally, I knew I was going to have one link attempt, so I might as well get it over with as quickly as possible and get home to see my family.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uNz3FHeU_GM/Uj8xVUpgwuI/AAAAAAAADP8/AMpx8B0FOHM/s640/bellavista+3+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uNz3FHeU_GM/Uj8xVUpgwuI/AAAAAAAADP8/AMpx8B0FOHM/s1600/bellavista+3+%25281%2529.jpg)
Alan drying holds on one of the 'warm' days
So after the five minute warm up burn, I blasted off at full tilt, through the crux and onto the weird back-and-foot rest at the block above. I wasn’t that pumped. So get going! Up through the mono move and onto the big traverse. I was breathing hard but forearms were absorbing the hit so far. At the undercut move I decided to start really trying and grunted through. But I was able to rest each hand on every hold. I got down to the move before a rest at a huge ‘Hueco’ pocket. My sequence is to fling my feet up into the hole first, have a rest in the bat hang and then flip round and throw my whole arm into it. My ankle was so weak I couldn’t pull up on the toehooks and nearly fell off. I took a few seconds more to figure out what to do, before resting my left foot once and then trying again. It worked and I hung from the arm-bar for five minutes, breathing slowly calming down. The final ten metres was a pure exercise in relaxation. I knew I could get to the belay if I didn’t make a mistake. The only way I’d make a mistake would be if I started to anticipate success. So I just switched off and pneumatic-ed through the holds with no emotion until the belay suddenly appeared in front of me.
Switching off completely means that when you do wake up and realise it’s done, it’s quite a shocker and the emotion comes flooding back. Alan wasted no time in gathering every down garment we had assembled at the belay and jugged up to join me, already shivering. I thawed out a little in the duvet while Alan cruised the 8a pitch above. I still had to jug up the rope and be lowered back down to do it myself, just to get the blood moving. The wind just kept cutting through me and in the next two pitches (6c+, 7a) I got really pumped on what should be easy ground. There just seemed to be no blood going through my forearms. We both had to second the remaining pitches to the Cassin ledge in the big jackets and duvet trousers! Never done that before, even in mixed climbing. There was just time to strip our gear out of the roof as it was getting dark and made it down to the base to find everything was frozen solid. We packed, rushed back to the car, then Venice for three hours sleep before boarding our flights back to Scotland.
It was really interesting for me to share the experience with Alan, who hasn’t done a great deal of mountain big wall climbs. Failing when the route is hard is something most climbers can deal with pretty well - why else do we try such hard climbs except to feel pushed and feel uncertainty? But failing through not being able to properly try can get under your skin. I certainly still find that creates a lot of restlessness in me. Last week I channelled it into finishing a draft of my book while the blizzards raged outside. Alan took it all really well and was able to keep turning on 'mission mode' all the way on the last day redpoint, despite the scary fall the previous day. His blogs (https://alancassidyclimbing.wordpress.com/) through the week are a nice illumination of an adventure unfolding, the final twist coming right at the last hours before the flight home.
Even now I can’t believe that came together.
(http://alancassidyclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/2013-09-21-18-01-44-1.jpg) (http://alancassidyclimbing.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/2013-09-21-18-01-44-1.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/V61n1ntouQY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Esoteric Gems (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ehxw-GkJa-E/esoteric-gems.html)
8 October 2013, 1:38 pm
Gordon Bombay, Font 7c+ (http://vimeo.com/76426388) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Esoteric gems are gems nonetheless. Yesterday I had to be in Edinburgh for a meeting with my Gore-Tex colleagues. On the way back I decided to swing past for a look at a couple of newly developed boulders near Lennoxtown.
Alex Gorham found and developed a handful of problems on lovely sandstone in the woods near the old Lennox Castle mental hospital. He waxed lyrical about the problems to me in TCA recently and had me keen for a look, even before I’d seen the excellent video on Alex and Jen's blog (http://alandjen.com/2013/06/17/new-area/) of his first ascent of Gordon Bombay (Font 7c+).
I went and repeated the problem after about an hour of finding the sequence. I thought I was going to get it on my second try, but the wrong sequence of toe hooks near the end seemed to get even more wrong before I figured out a better way. Toe hooks are one of my favourite moves, so I enjoyed it immensely and will be back to explore the area a bit more soon.
The place is only 20 minutes from my mums house, right near my earliest climbing haunts of Dunglas and Craigmore, where I climbed before I even got my first pair of rockshoes. Back then I would have been totally over the moon to come across that roof (and the other excellent problems). I regret not having a stronger exploratory zeal at the time. But as a youngster I just looked in the guidebook for what others had done and didn’t think so independently. It took a few years before I realised there was nothing stopping me from just going out and searching for great new routes that were obviously out there, hiding in the local hills and forests.
Fortunately, as a 35 year old, I still get over the moon to go and seek out and climb such a great problem. Even now it looks like the area will lend at least one more project to give me an excuse to return.
It's well worth checking out the video below of Alex doing it. It's pretty obvious our different shapes (me being a short chap) means we climb it quite differently in places. The other problems, especially Wow Jen (V5) are great too!
Lennoxtown Boulders (http://vimeo.com/68532212) from Alex Gorham (http://vimeo.com/user17613886) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/). Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ehxw-GkJa-E)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lectures and masterclasses coming up (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AXsko5JdxYQ/lectures-and-masterclasses-coming-up.html)
12 October 2013, 11:12 am
(http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/galleries/paciencia/content/images/large/20130815-paciencia-wide-942.jpg) (http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/galleries/paciencia/content/images/large/20130815-paciencia-wide-942.jpg)
I’ll be talking about the Eiger among other adventures in various lectures this autumn. Photo: Alexandre Buisse (http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/)
If you fancy coming to hear about my climbing adventures and how I do the climbs I do, come along to some of the lectures I’m doing this autumn. Maybe see you at one of these places:
Oct 26th Dundee: I’m speaking for Tiso and the Dundee Rucksack Club for their 90 anniversary celebration. Tickets and more details on that coming shortly on Tiso’s site.
Nov 3rd: I’m speaking at the Ice Factor’s Festival of Ice (http://www.ice-factor.co.uk/festivalofice/) and running climbing masterclasses in both rock and mixed climbing. The Festival will be a mega event. You should check out all the things that are going on there. The technique classes will fill up quickly so you should call Claire on 07813060376 to book a place. I’ll be running the rock technique classes 10-noon and 4-6pm, the mixed/dry tooling class 2-4pm and giving a talk at lunchtime. Cost is £40 for a place on one of my classes. The event is to raise money for Climber’s against cancer.
Nov 4th Aberdeen: I’m speaking at the Aberdeen Tiso store. Tickets available at the store, £5, although you can enquire online about tickets from here (http://www.tiso.com/news/lectures/a198f900-929f-e914-c953-fa824b3232b3/) by clicking on the start time at the bottom.
Nov 28th London: I’m speaking at the Royal Geographical Society for their annual Porter’s Progress lecture. Tickets here. (https://portersprogressuk.eventbrite.co.uk/)
Dec 13th Bozeman Ice Festival (http://www.bozemanicefest.com/), USA. I’m speaking at the festival and running ice/mixed technique clinics on Dec 14th.
See you there! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AXsko5JdxYQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Supporting Scottish mountain rescue (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/i5FT2Wk4JEM/supporting-scottish-mountain-rescue.html)
12 October 2013, 11:52 am
A good while ago I wrote some posts about Mountain Rescue and ideas on how they might improve their funding. It’s good to see some new developments there: Scottish Mountain Rescue, who represent and co-ordinate the individual rescue teams across the country have secured some corporate sponsorship from Isle of Skye Whisky.
At the moment, rescue gets some funding from the Scottish government, but it’s not nearly enough to keep the teams going in the ever increasing costs of rescuing folk in the Scottish mountains. For those of us who live around Ben Nevis for example, the seemingly nightly buzz of the rescue helicopter through the winter is a reminder of just how hard they have to work and how much the service is pushed these days.
Donating when and where you can really ought to be something all folk who go into the hills should do. So many of us have a friend or relative who has needed a rescue, or will do one day. Odds are it will save that person’s life. So it’s important. You can do it easily here, by the way.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDP_b_NuyRQ/UlkwlOWCxcI/AAAAAAAADRE/aWpHZv9DR-0/s640/MountainRescueBenNevis_4.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gDP_b_NuyRQ/UlkwlOWCxcI/AAAAAAAADRE/aWpHZv9DR-0/s1600/MountainRescueBenNevis_4.JPG)
I was asked to go along to the launch day of the campaign that Scottish Mountain Rescue and Isle of Skye Whisky are starting in Glen Nevis to take pictures to publicise the campaign in the papers and speak to Reporting Scotland. The amazing SARDA rescue dog sat stock still for 20 minutes for these pictures.
As well as encouraging direct donations through their ability to attract a lot of attention as a big company, they are donating 15p per bottle of whisky sold to Scottish Mountain Rescue. I hope it raises enough to keep the teams equipped and able to keep doing such an amazing job. I hope I never need them myself, but I certainly am thankful that they are there. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/i5FT2Wk4JEM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Damn cool dog!
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Surgery's eve (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fmyF_hOaZcM/surgerys-eve.html)
15 October 2013, 2:45 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCKFvhkBW6Y/Ul1QFhLJByI/AAAAAAAADRw/xp-ahQW2vX4/s640/surgery+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lCKFvhkBW6Y/Ul1QFhLJByI/AAAAAAAADRw/xp-ahQW2vX4/s1600/surgery+1.jpg)
Alan Cassidy on the big Dumbarton project
I was lucky enough to be able to climb recently despite my pending ankle surgery yesterday. For my last day before the appointment with the knife collection, I decided to team up with Alan Cassidy (https://alancassidyclimbing.wordpress.com/) to go on a very inspiring project.
The wall right of Rhapsody at Dumbarton was bolted in the early nineties by the ever optimistic Andy Gallagher. Various very strong people had tried it and noone had made much impression on it. That’s a shame since it’s one of the best lines at an amazing crag, with superb rock and moves. I had a brief play one cold day around 8 years ago. I felt it was just possible but might be upwards of 9a+ minimum. I was getting kind of ‘full’ of climbing at Dumbarton at the time and left it for a life in the highlands.
Just as well Alan took an interest and looked at it again, giving it a proper clean for the first time. A couple of tiny, but useful holds appeared from under the lichen, that maybe tip it in the direction of possible, although the grade might still start with 9…
I had a play and was most heartened to be able to do most of the individual moves. It’s clear that it goes and it’s pretty inspiring. I found it kind of ridiculous to be back there after several years, working on the line I’d left behind, thinking that some youth will come along and do it. That will probably still happen, but it’s surprising to me that it hasn't already. There are plenty of folk with the finger strength. All it would take is the attitude. Anyway, it left me with a nice feeling of inspiration with which to enter surgery rehab mode the next day.
I didn’t have to be in hospital until 2.30pm, so at the last minute I jumped out the door first thing and was at Lennoxtown for 8am to look at the other arete project Alex (http://alandjen.com/) had told me about. I found it (at least I presume it’s the same line?) and it looked amazing! I settled into figuring out it’s exquisite moves for around 30 minutes and realised I was quite close to getting it. Unfortunately it was raining heavily and the sloping topout was running water. I linked it from the start to the topout three times but wasn’t able to pull over on the soggy slopers. Unfortunate, but I’ll still enjoy it when I next get the chance to get on it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PPQ4Hp-8Rew/Ul1QFbBEBwI/AAAAAAAADRs/oXR384X_fnY/s320/surgery+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PPQ4Hp-8Rew/Ul1QFbBEBwI/AAAAAAAADRs/oXR384X_fnY/s1600/surgery+2.jpg)
Lennox Castle arete project
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3gvxBSWZCw/Ul1QFRXL7-I/AAAAAAAADRo/PH0mDOg22tQ/s320/surgery+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q3gvxBSWZCw/Ul1QFRXL7-I/AAAAAAAADRo/PH0mDOg22tQ/s1600/surgery+3.jpg)
After that it was back to reality and a sober drive to hospital to get cut up. The surgeon and staff did a great job and everything went well for me. I was quite terrified of what the surgeon would find in my ankle joint. But it ended up not being as bad as I feared. He pulled several large osteophytes (i.e. Loose chunks of bone) out of the joint and gave a couple of them to me afterwards. I’m not totally sure if they all broke off when I fell off Hold True the other week, or some time before that. Either way, I’m glad to see them out.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6cYULgweEI/Ul1QIhbCfpI/AAAAAAAADR4/tz1EpWhYrfU/s640/surgery+4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x6cYULgweEI/Ul1QIhbCfpI/AAAAAAAADR4/tz1EpWhYrfU/s1600/surgery+4.jpg)
No wonder my ankle hurt
Right now, on day one of recovery, I’m totally psyched to get started on a return to fitness. It’s always refreshing to start with a clean slate and reassess all aspects of your game - What climbs do I want to do? What physical weaknesses should I take time to address? There’s plenty to be getting on with.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fmyF_hOaZcM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ruthven Traverses (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/V9fLZcOdVjc/ruthven-traverses.html)
18 October 2013, 3:02 pm
Ivory Coast Font 7c+ (http://vimeo.com/77212498) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
On the way home from the Dolomites the other week, I stopped by at the Ruthven Boulder near Inverness for a session. Blair Fyffe had just added a long traverse at Font 7c (or route 8b - it’s 20 or 30 metres long!). Blair wrote a nice blog about it here (http://blairfyffe.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/ebony-face-beyond-communication.html). There was an obvious extended start to make it a bit more complete and I thought I’d have a look at that. I repeated the traverse from Blair’s start after a suss of the moves (I’d say it’s more like route 8a+) and then did it from the extended start which adds a great section across the roof on the left side of the boulder. This definitely knocks it up a grade to route 8b or Font 7c/+ish. It’s a classic endurance workout and dries very quickly, so I’m sure it will be keeping local climbers fit in the coming years. If you want the beta, check out the video above. Blair's trav starts from the big jug I bat-hang off.
Thankfully, it isn’t over there. Where the traverse goes up a level at the crux of ‘The Big Lebowski’, there is an obvious low variation dropping down a bit and continuing on tiny crimpers. After two or three sessions, just before I headed to Glasgow for surgery, I almost got it. So I have something to go back to as soon as I can climb again. The crux is quite a lot harder than the high traverse and it’s going to go at around route 8c I think. Can’t wait to return.. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/V9fLZcOdVjc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery; 1 week (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TzqglbPkH8c/post-surgery-1-week.html)
22 October 2013, 11:44 am
Things have gone well for me. Much better than I expected. 48 hours after surgery, I was on the campus board in TCA and doing easy problems foot-off. After my surgery last year, I couldn’t face this for nearly two weeks. By day 4 I was hobbling a little in the house and at day 7 walking quite normally, if still for very short distances.
Of course I’ve had a couple of ‘sore’ days. Yesterday I didn’t feel like doing anything too far from a sofa until it was time for my physio session in the evening. I’ve still not ventured out for anything more than a few minutes walk. But I’m well happy with the progress so far. Now I have my big fat bandage off, I can see that my foot is not so far from a shape that would accept a rockshoe.
The huge difference between this and my much slower progress in last year’s operation on the other ankle might be accounted for because the joint was much less ‘hot’ at the time of surgery. I.e. I was walking around on a partially functioning foot rather than on crutches on a swollen, angry ankle.
Roll on the progress! Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/TzqglbPkH8c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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BBC climbs; Handa and the caves DVD available (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/GeAOUe7g1CA/bbc-climbs-handa-and-caves-dvd-available.html)
24 October 2013, 10:30 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Extraordinary-Climbsbigbig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/extraordinaryclimbs.html)
I’ve just added a new climbing DVD to the webshop. It’s the double DVD of two BBC programmes I shot last year. The first is a re-enactment of one of the first recorded climbs in the UK; a crossing by three men from the Western Isles onto the Great Stac of Handa in 1867. It was quite an experience to recreate their feat of daring and a window into a way of life now long gone. The inspiration to make a film about it came from an essay by Tom Patey in an old SMC journal, where he expressed his amazement at the strength and ingenuity of the Lewismen for rigging up a rope successfully and climbing across the huge gap to the stac. Patey himself had found the crossing desperate. To film it we had to get a 400m rope that was really thick (it weighed 45kgs) and cart it across Handa and then set it up spanning between the headlands on either side of the Stac. It was quite amazing the Lewismen thought to do it that way.
The second film couldn't be more different. The huge networks of limestone caves underneath the dales of Yorkshire and the Peak District obviously have some fantastic rock features, but they aren’t normally visited by rock climbers! Myself and Alan Cassidy went on a wee mission to see if there was good rock climbing to be had in the caves. What we found was pretty adventurous and definitely out of the ordinary. First off we climbed the a big circular chamber of Jingling Pot in Yorkshire. It went at about E3 although that obviously doesn’t do it much justice since it was running with water and totally dark. But that was just a warm up for the 4-pitch monster 7c+ we climbed in Peak Cavern - the biggest cave opening in the peak, and our route was the first free climb In the whole cave. It was quite a lucky and special experience. Both programmes are 1 hour long.
It’s in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/extraordinaryclimbs.html)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-frHBljObL7U/TrLwdDE31eI/AAAAAAAACrc/4Veygoxmedo/s640/peakcavernmacleod+6.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-frHBljObL7U/TrLwdDE31eI/AAAAAAAACrc/4Veygoxmedo/s1600/peakcavernmacleod+6.jpg)
Our new 4 pitch 7c+ in Peak Cavern on the Extraordinary Climbs film
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/GeAOUe7g1CA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ruthven Traverses (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/V9fLZcOdVjc/ruthven-traverses.html)
18 October 2013, 3:02 pm
Ivory Coast Font 7c+ (http://vimeo.com/77212498) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
On the way home from the Dolomites the other week, I stopped by at the Ruthven Boulder near Inverness for a session. Blair Fyffe had just added a long traverse at Font 7c (or route 8b - it’s 20 or 30 metres long!). Blair wrote a nice blog about it here (http://blairfyffe.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/ebony-face-beyond-communication.html). There was an obvious extended start to make it a bit more complete and I thought I’d have a look at that. I repeated the traverse from Blair’s start after a suss of the moves (I’d say it’s more like route 8a+) and then did it from the extended start which adds a great section across the roof on the left side of the boulder. This definitely knocks it up a grade to route 8b or Font 7c/+ish. It’s a classic endurance workout and dries very quickly, so I’m sure it will be keeping local climbers fit in the coming years. If you want the beta, check out the video above. Blair's trav starts from the big jug I bat-hang off.
Thankfully, it isn’t over there. Where the traverse goes up a level at the crux of ‘The Big Lebowski’, there is an obvious low variation dropping down a bit and continuing on tiny crimpers. After two or three sessions, just before I headed to Glasgow for surgery, I almost got it. So I have something to go back to as soon as I can climb again. The crux is quite a lot harder than the high traverse and it’s going to go at around route 8c I think. Can’t wait to return.. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/V9fLZcOdVjc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
Good work. I did the traverse rightwards from the ramp of the Big Lebowski in the 90s. I've even got a couple of photos somewhere I think. It was Kev Howett who first told me about the Ruthven Boulder, although at that time I don't think he'd been there.
All the best
Tim Carruthers
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The huge networks of limestone caves underneath the dales of Yorkshire and the Peak District obviously have some fantastic rock features, but they aren’t normally visited by rock climbers ........ But that was just a warm up for the 4-pitch monster 7c+ we climbed in Peak Cavern - the biggest cave opening in the peak, and our route was the first free climb In the whole cave. It was quite a lucky and special experience. Both programmes are 1 hour long.
Bit unfair as to all other climbers of recent times this place is banned, would love to know the logistics of how it went down? both climbing wise and how much cash it took for the cavern folk to let it happen.
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He did write about it at the time:
http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/new-route-in-peak-cavern.html (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/new-route-in-peak-cavern.html)
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New titles in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/it7kCNZDdng/new-titles-in-shop.html)
10 November 2013, 6:08 pm
I’ve just added a couple of new books in the shop. Both are must reads for anyone keen for inspiration and information on climbing, but both are very different. The last book is a long awaited guide to some of the finest lumps of rock in the UK.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/tearsofthedawn.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tearsofthedawn.html) First up is Julian Lines autobiography ‘Tears of the Dawn’ (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tearsofthedawn.html). I imagine most of you will not need introduced to Jules, who has been the ‘dark horse’ of the bold trad and free soloing scene in the UK for the past 15 years or so. I’ve done a couple of his routes myself such as Firestone E7 6c in Hell’s Lum which is archetypal of his climbs - no gear, not really any holds either. Just a deep breath and a lot of trust in the frictional properties of thin granite smears. Many of the nailbiting adventures he’s had over the years involve free soloing, by himself on the quiet mountain crags of the highlands. But he’s also well known for his deep water soloing exploits, not to mention jumping off cliffs and paragliding. He’s hit the ground from a long way up too many times to mention, but is either a very lucky man or has bendy bones. It’s a great window into the mind of an solo adventurer, but very much the opposite of an Alex Honhold type of character.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/artoficeclimbing.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/theartoficeclimbing.html) Next is The Art of Ice Climbing (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/theartoficeclimbing.html), a lovely book which is part coffee table inspiration book, part technical manual. It’s a great production with interesting historical and new photography throughout. It has excellent advice sections on sharpening ice tools, screws, ropework and techniques for ice climbing. I think just about any ice climber would learn something new here. In the past there have been some great books on ice climbing that every climber should have on their shelf. I reckon this is the latest in that line.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/torridon-bouldering-small.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/torridonbouldering.html) Lastly, I’ve added the new Torridon bouldering guide (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/torridonbouldering.html) which is finally out by local activists Ian Taylor and Richie Betts. It’s great to see this guide finally out. The rock at Torridon is the best I’ve climbed on in the UK. It’s truly amazing stuff, and many of the problems are amazing natural lines too. The guys have done a great job producing this guide which contains around 250 problems to go at, and of course many first ascents still waiting to be explored.
You’ll find all of these, along with the rest of the best climbing books, films and gear out there in the shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html). Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/it7kCNZDdng)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery: 4 weeks (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/5JJ2xdXf-Tw/post-surgery-4-weeks.html)
10 November 2013, 6:11 pm
Tomorrow is 4 weeks since my ankle surgery. I’ve had just as many ups and downs as I expected. At first, I was going great guns, ditching my crutches quite early on and starting to walk quite freely around the house. In the second week, I even had a 15 minute climbing session on easy problems at the Ice Factor.
Then the ankle became infected, I got antibiotics, they made me get really sick, then it got super swollen and exquisitely painful. All of this coincided with a family trip to Fontainbleau, the first day of which I spent lying as still as possible in bed with a fever. After that, I was of course desperate to climb. The next day I did one 7B+, and paid for it for the rest of the week, limping around generally feeling pretty rough. Back home and I managed to get through a couple of days coaching and lectures in Scotland before getting on another plane to Margalef which I’d arranged long before I’d even had the ankle problem.
When I woke up on the first morning, I wished I’d just cancelled the trip. I’d been hopeful I could begin climbing by now, but the ankle was still really swollen and angry. A 200 metre walk to the crag nearly had me in tears. More antibiotics, rest days and lying down with my foot in the air seems to have brought a breakthrough at last.
Yesterday, I made another tentative start. A 7a+, a 7b and a laughable attempt at an 8c. I know that my confidence won’t take too long to get back, but yesterday felt like I was 16 and weak again. I’ve lost a lot of confidence to be aggressive with my feet and get body tension. To be expected of course.
Today felt slightly better again, with 7b+ onsight and an 8a redpoint, and the crag was about 10 minutes walk from the car (the crux of the day!). Tomorrow I will rest and then we’ll see if I can make another little step in an upward direction. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/5JJ2xdXf-Tw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Post surgery: 4.5 weeks (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KvVgMd32VmM/post-surgery-45-weeks.html)
17 November 2013, 8:34 pm
In my last two days in Margalef, I managed to keep up the progress with my surgery rehab. I had a quick try on another 8c and although I got it in two halves, I still wasn’t able to get much power through my left foot or move with any confidence. However, even the next day I could feel it getting better and actually got fairly close to doing the route. My body movements are still feeling pretty foreign. That might sound a bit silly, but it’s a difficult sensation to explain. Because I climb a lot and have climbed for years, my brain has such a strong expectation of how my body ought to move. So when it doesn’t function that way, it feels like it’s someone else climbing.
On my last day, after a couple of quick tries on the 8c, I got a bouldery 8a+ redpointed in half an hour or so, and a 7c+ onsight. On both of those, although I’m still far off fitness, I felt a bit more myself during the climbing. I can’t tell you what a satisfying feeling that is.
So now I’ve had a handful of climbing days to get me started, I’m heading back to Scotland and can try and build a base of fitness and confidence again. The next stage is to be able to walk up a hill again. After this trip I’ve consolidated walking for 10 minutes or so on uneven paths. So if my upward progress continues I’ll hopefully manage to walk a mile or so, and then I’ll shoot for walking up a Munro and climbing 8c again. My goal (if it’s not to cold now) will be to complete my 8c project at Ruthven as soon as I can. The rest before the crux has a left foot toe hook though, so I might have to try powering on through instead!
[Update] Since writing the post above I managed to miss the last tube train back from a gig in Glasgow and walked at least a mile through Govan in the wee small hours to find some transport home. It might not count since it was under the influence of a few analgesics. I'll take it as further progress anyway.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KvVgMd32VmM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fresh eyes (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/NOl5M1zjZpo/fresh-eyes.html)
25 November 2013, 11:02 am
I came back to my big traverse project, which unfortunately was quite wet. However, good progress can still be made even though I can’t try all of it. With fresh eyes, I spotted quite a few changes to my sequence that seem so obvious now, but didn’t before. It always makes me smile when that happens. Why don’t you see an obviously easier way to do a move before, but having had a wee bit of time away, it’s obvious? Who knows, but it’s nice anyway. I felt like I almost did the project just before I went in for surgery. So I'm gunning for a dry day where I can get a chance to see where I'm at on it now.
My ankle continues to have up and down progress. I can now do some rather shaky one-leg calf raises, which were completely impossible 1 week ago. I can also bat hang again. However, although I can hang upside down from holds by my toes, walking up mountains is still challenging.
I tried a longish walk over classic tussocky Scottish bog, in search of some new crags. I found a great deep water soloing venue 5 miles from my house! However, after 45 minutes, it hurt.
So at least another week of bouldering, training, physio, book editing etc. Maybe I’ll see some of you on Thursday night in London for my talk at the Royal Geographical Society (http://www.portersprogressuk.org/event/committed-the-story-of-a-glaswegian-rock-star/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/NOl5M1zjZpo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Two new films for winter (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/6nWYjmpWIYo/two-new-films-for-winter.html)
26 November 2013, 5:29 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Distilled.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/distilled.html)I’ve just added two new climbing films to the shop. First up is Distilled (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/distilled.html), Hot Aches Productions new film about Scottish winter climbing with Andy Cave. There are still only a handful of films out there about Scottish winter, and of these, one one or two really good ones. So it’s great to see another. Andy explores what is so special about this ‘distilled’ form of alpinism by going climbing on all types of routes from the classic mountaineering routes like Tower Ridge to proper hard mixed in proper wild conditions. Inspiring and timely stuff. You’ll find Distilled in the shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/distilled.html) for HD download and the DVDs will be with us in a few days.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/The-Last-Great-Climb-sml.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/lastgreatclimb.html)Next is The Last Great Climb (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/lastgreatclimb.html) DVD, Alastair Lee’s latest film with Leo Houlding. Leo increasingly these days is going on some pretty badass expeditions to far flung places. Ulvetanna in Antarctica is just about as far flung as you can get. It’s a jaw dropping mountain to look at and the line they managed to climb on it just looks sensational. As you might expect with Alastair, although it’s heavy on the cheese factor at times it is very well filmed and a great adventure. One to make you think twice about just going down the local wall and booking a ticket to the other side of the world instead.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/6nWYjmpWIYo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Venezuela Jungle Jam film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vo-LvUdrsBs/venezuela-jungle-jam-film.html)
3 December 2013, 12:15 am
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/venezuela-jungle-jam-big.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/venezuelajunglejam.html)Finally, we just got our copies of the new film from the crazy Belgians in the shop: Venezuela Jungle Jam (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/venezuelajunglejam.html). Nico Favresse, Sean Villanueva and their climbing partners are the undisputed kings of making expedition climbing movies. They are also pretty much the kings of making badass climbing expeditions. It’s a killer combination.
Their previous films Asgard Jamming (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/asgardjamming.html) and Vertical Sailing (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/verticalsailing.html) have been very popular with you and for good reason. They are two of the most fun climbing films you’ll ever see and full of all the ingredients of great adventure - big characters, thrills and spills and unexpected funny moments. Venezuela Jungle Jam is the latest in the line! It’s already picking up a string of awards on the film festival circuit. In this film they are off to the amazing 500m sandstone Tepuy of Venezuela to deal with sweaty jungles, wild animals, loose rock, falls, overhanging big walls and, always, jamming on the portaledge.
The climbing looks challenging, in just about all the ways it could (apart from being cold). The scenery is gob smacking and as you’ll just about see in the teaser (it really is a tease) Sean’s superb sideways plummet off a ledge is another one of those ‘oh my god’ moments we almost come to expect from these guys. Brilliant stuff. The DVD is 58 mins plus extras, Subtitles in English, Spanish, Dutch, Italian, Polish and German.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/Distilled.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/distilled.html)I’ve also just added the Distilled DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/distilled.html) now we have our DVD stock, so you can either download it, or get it for your winter partner for Christmas!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vo-LvUdrsBs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The bit in between (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/I61phO00h3Q/the-bit-in-between.html)
12 December 2013, 12:26 am
Right now, I’m still progressing quite well with my return to climbing from surgery. The weather in Scotland has been rubbish, so much of my climbing has been indoors. Every night, I’ve been working away on my basic balance, ankle and and body strength exercises. It's not very glamourous stuff; just standing on one leg with my eyes shut and making shapes, over and over again. I had some alarming losses in strength to regain. But the nightly work is paying off and I can notice that I can get a lot more weight through my foot on steep ground since I was Spain a few weeks ago. The surgeon is happy with my progress, although he did say there was a fair bit of trauma (osteophytes trimmed back from both my talus and tibia) to recover from.
On a rope, I feel reasonably confident now, but in bouldering, I’m still very timid to land for good reason. I went to TCA last night and still have to climb everything as if I’m soloing and climb back down rather than jump or fall. It will probably be good for my climbing to do this for a little while.
So I’m in the bit in between being a surgical patient and recovered climber. There is still work to do, but I’m enjoying the progress. As I write, I’m en route to speak at the Bozeman Ice Festival this weekend. Hopefully, when I return at the end of next week there will be some winter conditions for me to get into back home. Then it’s only a short time until I go on a rather exciting climbing trip!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/I61phO00h3Q)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Commencing the wait (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PXgwWYggyUo/commencing-wait.html)
5 January 2014, 1:56 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5DDlXOhFAO0/Usiztv_nBJI/AAAAAAAADS0/h9Mo4_Ul7PI/s640/pata+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5DDlXOhFAO0/Usiztv_nBJI/AAAAAAAADS0/h9Mo4_Ul7PI/s1600/pata+1.jpg)
Calum, Ben, Ally and myself have just arrived in El Chalten, Patagonia. We are here with the plan to climb on Cerro Torre, if we can. Any of you who have been to Patagonia already know that any firm plans here are, shall we say, subject to some adjustment. We want to climb rock, so we will have to wait until the liberal coating of snow and ice currently covering Cerro Torre melts back a bit.
I’ve never been here before. Back in 2001 I was considering it when my friend Alan Mullin was going there. He pretty much put me off it with tales of two consecutive two-month trips which consisted of sitting in the hut waiting for a weather window that never came. But then, one might be lucky, and Patagonia is somewhere you really ought to visit at some point. So since Calum and I both had eyed up the same projects here, I thought now was as good a time as any.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gyYbRIjoek/UsizosqN7RI/AAAAAAAADSs/WDNuiEZiUOQ/s640/pata+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3gyYbRIjoek/UsizosqN7RI/AAAAAAAADSs/WDNuiEZiUOQ/s1600/pata+2.jpg)
I was fully braced for a month of editing my book and getting fat, and on arrival in El Chalten, the forecast duly delivered. No weather windows in sight so far. However, I didn’t really appreciate that the bouldering here is so good. So while we wait, we are bouldering, a lot. I’ve had two great days climbing so far. I’ve done some nice granite sport climbs and got some good links on Iker Pou’s famous power endurance problem V12 ‘Wasabi’. I’ll be back on that again soon. It’s great to be on a climbing trip after so long on the couch after surgery. Here’s to the next month, whether it brings chilly adventures in the mountains, or ‘waiting’ amongst the granite boulders and adventures on small crimpers.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-46QUV_phMpU/UsizjCY4UQI/AAAAAAAADSk/f73u_mW6Eh4/s640/pata.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-46QUV_phMpU/UsizjCY4UQI/AAAAAAAADSk/f73u_mW6Eh4/s1600/pata.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PXgwWYggyUo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Patagonia first days (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/WtqWG040O4M/patagonia-first-days.html)
7 January 2014, 4:27 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2CZWUWHwEqw/UsuBP4IiuaI/AAAAAAAADTA/BNVxPSwJGZ8/s1600/wasabi+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2CZWUWHwEqw/UsuBP4IiuaI/AAAAAAAADTA/BNVxPSwJGZ8/s1600/wasabi+1.jpg)
Repeating Wasabi, V12, near El Chalten (video still: Calum Muskett)
We have now been in Patagonia for 4 days, and our expectations for getting some free climbing done in the mountains soon are coming down to reality. We’ve met lots of familiar faces around El Chalten, and many new ones. Everyone wants to be up high doing long rock routes, but everyone is waiting for the wind, snow and rain to stop. At least two climbers who’ve spent a few seasons here have informed us that there is no chance of our primary objective on Cerro Torre coming into condition. So we have some plan Bs, Cs and Ds.
Most of those still require it not to be snowing and blowing a hoolie on the granite towers. So for now it’s time to crack on with the excellent bouldering. Straight away I’d got stuck into trying Wasabi on the superb boulders near El Chalten. It gets Font 8b although I think it’s a bit easier than that. Today it dawned rainy but cold. I worked on my book until lunchtime and then wandered up for another session on it. My first try saw me right up at the lip of the boulder but scared to carry on in a pumped state with no mats. Thankfully David Lama turned up with a mat and I got it done next try. I have a little video of this, but the internet connection is far to slow to bring it to you.
I’m told there is a hotel in town with something resembling a real connection. Given the forecast, it shouldn’t be too long before it’s time to go for a cup of tea there, so I’ll send it then. Tomorrow’s forecast is stormy, then stormy again the next day, and the next. Patagonia: hardcore bouldering destination and writer’s retreat! If I could run, I'd be doing plenty of that too.
I had a great time today at the boulders and certainly looking forward to getting stuck into more hard problems while we wait.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/WtqWG040O4M)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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At last some mountaineering (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/08gHsJyGwAg/at-last-some-mountaineering.html)
11 January 2014, 9:39 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3lz7jTSwCc/UtGvVs0eY-I/AAAAAAAADUI/MKO79sP3v1U/s1600/guillaumet+5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z3lz7jTSwCc/UtGvVs0eY-I/AAAAAAAADUI/MKO79sP3v1U/s1600/guillaumet+5.jpg)
Seconding a brilliant VII,8 pitch on the Aguja Guillaumet, Patagonia. Photo: Calum Muskett
With a one day weather window forecast for Friday, we packed our things and wondered what objective to point ourselves at. The options were a bit limited. So just going up and being there was all we realistically hoped for. It had snowed very heavily the day before and many of the approaches would be dangerous. The rock routes would be in winter condition, and the window was too short to go on a really big wall.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iy4OkaXHF9Q/UtGvPmbEdBI/AAAAAAAADT8/kgwDpPpoB0U/s1600/guillaumet+3.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iy4OkaXHF9Q/UtGvPmbEdBI/AAAAAAAADT8/kgwDpPpoB0U/s1600/guillaumet+3.jpg)
Me leading a nice ice runnel on pitch 2. Photo: Calum Muskett
So we decided to go to the Guillaumet and see if we could safely get to a mixed route on its east face. On Thursday’s walk in, it was still windy, snowing and clagged in. My ankle hurt like hell with a heavy pack on and for the first hour I was unsure if I was going to make it. But after a while it became tolerable and I could think about something else. Near the snow line, we made a small bivi with rocks under a boulder and settled in for the evening.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qaZBB83UR9k/UtGvl4heQ9I/AAAAAAAADUQ/IbtqYdAxwVc/s1600/guillaumet+4.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qaZBB83UR9k/UtGvl4heQ9I/AAAAAAAADUQ/IbtqYdAxwVc/s1600/guillaumet+4.jpg)
Calum setting off on steep cracks on pitch 3
The dawn slog up onto the glacier brought a sunny morning and the greatest surprise of the trip so far - no wind. After hearing so much about the wind in these mountains it was a little surreal to be standing in the morning sun looking at the granite walls. Our plan A, a route on the Mermoz, was immediately ruled out after a block test in the snow revealed an easy shear. Later, we met some Austrians who did venture across the glacier, but gave up before they even got to the foot of the Mermoz, in chest deep fresh snow.
We weren’t about to waste the chance to climb something, so we headed right to the Guillaumet and eyed up a 6 pitch steep wall with some snow and ice clinging to various cracks and corners. A short route by Patagonian standards, but as we found out, it packed it in, with one pitch of Scottish tech 6, one of 7 and three of tech 8.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vmd5DNK06es/UtG2j9gJnAI/AAAAAAAADUo/yCgq70J1JcQ/s1600/guillaumet+6.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vmd5DNK06es/UtG2j9gJnAI/AAAAAAAADUo/yCgq70J1JcQ/s1600/guillaumet+6.jpg)
Calum starting up a big tech 8 corner on pitch 5.
Calum got two great pitches in the middle of the route. First a smooth wall with thin cracks and good hooks at VII,8 and a long steep corner which was around VIII,8. I had another VII,7 pitch with lots of great steinpull moves on rounded flakes. But the highlight for me was the final pitch which I got to lead; an improbable looking ramp leading into a smooth overhanging corner above. Both features didn’t give anything away until the last minute. The ramp went with a series of undercut placements in a row, with feet on a delicate smear of thin ice. The top corner went with lock-offs, feet not able to help much at all!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Mr2fmYkM-U/UtG2ffaC8LI/AAAAAAAADUg/Id_FUHRBtdg/s1600/guillaumet+7.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1Mr2fmYkM-U/UtG2ffaC8LI/AAAAAAAADUg/Id_FUHRBtdg/s1600/guillaumet+7.jpg)
Eyeing up a thin ice smear on pitch 6. Photo: Calum Muskett.
Counting an hour back at our bivi boulder to have some Clif Bars and tea, we walked out in 6 hours. Calum had the march on. He was gunning to get back to El Chalten that night. I scurried along behind him, trying to keep up through the forest as the darkness crept up. Just before midnight, Calum suddenly flung down the haulsac in frustration that we hadn’t got back to the road yet, pulled out his bivi bag and within seconds he’d retired for the night. I crawled into my bivi bag and settled in, only to hear a truck go over the bridge in the road, about 200 yards away round the next bend in the path. In the morning we only had a short stagger and a quick hitch back to El Chalten.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EDGOcW2Zdpc/UtGtpl93LHI/AAAAAAAADTU/PZAHQxnB6s0/s1600/guillaumet+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EDGOcW2Zdpc/UtGtpl93LHI/AAAAAAAADTU/PZAHQxnB6s0/s1600/guillaumet+2.jpg)
Lovely clouds above the Poincenot.
Even if that turns out to be our only weather window (which it might, the way the season has gone so far), It was great experience to get some climbing done on the Patagonian towers. As far as we know, it’s a new route too. I certainly felt like we made the most of the tricky conditions to get a good route done. So now, it’s back to bouldering, sport climbing, eating steaks and watching the forecast.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1-CL2eFyQhA/UtGtyjI0WEI/AAAAAAAADTk/9fr9BoEqHi0/s1600/guillaumet+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1-CL2eFyQhA/UtGtyjI0WEI/AAAAAAAADTk/9fr9BoEqHi0/s1600/guillaumet+%25281%2529.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2ELVBITVBSY/UtGtsQdvFqI/AAAAAAAADTc/L6EXgnrXngw/s1600/guillaumet+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2ELVBITVBSY/UtGtsQdvFqI/AAAAAAAADTc/L6EXgnrXngw/s1600/guillaumet+1.jpg)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/08gHsJyGwAg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Plan B (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KCvTrgS0dUE/plan-b.html)
20 January 2014, 3:15 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VuXi5pDBxIU/UtxKlcAhUfI/AAAAAAAADVg/CJIfxwD_2c8/s1600/mermoz+6.jpg)
Sunrise on the glacier below the Mermoz. Whatever happens today, it’s going to be a good one.
We are recovering after our second venture into the mountains in Patagonia. Everyone in El Chalten seems to be talking about which bits of their tired bodies are hurting the most and how many hours they spent on the go yesterday. The weather, for one day, was pretty good. But still not enough for rock climbing.
We had our eyes set on a rock climbing objective on the Aguja Poincenot and packed our rock rack, shoes and chalk bags. We still took pairs of ice tools, just in case, and trekked in to a high loch to camp for the night. We were unable to make it up to our intended bivi spot at Paso Superior since some climbers coming down had triggered a small slide with the snow softened by the afternoon sun. We weren't about to go up and risk doing the same for the sake of a longer walk in the morning. So we got into our sleeping bags around 6pm and failed to sleep.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5NhtX1rpeC0/UtxMKowpM1I/AAAAAAAADV4/2QfkGmq8bds/s1600/mermoz+8.jpg)
Fitzroy bathed in the early morning sun.
At 3am we put on our crampons and slogged up onto the glacier, with sweat dripping from my helmet. We were rewarded with a stellar sunrise, bathing the Fitzroy range in lovely morning sunlight. There were some clouds blowing in though, and it was freezing as soon as you stopped moving. A quick discussion established the obvious; we would have no chance of having enough hours of warm sunshine in the day to free climb a hard 16 pitch rock route. Plan B? Get the ice tools out.
I had already spied a stunning looking new mixed line to attempt on the nearby Mermoz, a huge steep groove feature with thin runnels of ice that looked no more than a foot or so wide in places, flanked by blank vertical granite on each side. So we headed for that, even though I must admit I thought it looked far too hard for us to actually succeed on. But that’s new routing - you just have to go and try. Lots of folk say they would rather go for routes they think they can do, and I understand this; it’s nice to get to the top of things, at least once in a while. As a personal choice I’ve always erred on the side of trying a harder line, and never been too bothered about having poor or very poor odds of success. I’d rather fail on a hard route than succeed on an easier one, or to use a bit of aid to ensure success (as some of the routes here have done). We could have been certain of success on one of the easier lines on the day. But I would only have been walking down, wandering if that groove which had caught my eye would have been possible, or not.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6q8E3afEiWk/UtxLb7gzXSI/AAAAAAAADVw/7rDbeNWH6CI/s1600/mermoz+5.jpg)
Steinpull moves and thin ice on the hard pitch.
After a pleasant first pitch on ice, I belayed below a desperate looking corner containing an ice choked off-width crack. In my mind I thought we would be abseiling off shortly. Calum led through and had a go. He took a short fall after 20 feet and came down saying he thought it was too hard. I had a go and grunted my way up it. The pitch was about VIII,9 and took a lot of energy. So I was happy to soak up the morning sun on my belay and try not to fall asleep hanging in my harness!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3lRRkTtQ024/UtxI7hpJTbI/AAAAAAAADVE/0P5iAeIRCrY/s1600/mermoz+2.jpg)
Calum sets off up another amazing runnel of steep ice.
The next three pitches were amazing. They were all primarily on steep, narrow ice runnels with hard cruxes getting over bulges or dealing with cruddy ice. On one pitch I swung my tool, breaking a large chunk of dense ice off the runnel. I was in too much of a precarious position to get out of the way and it hit me square in the jaw. Once I was happy I still had all my teeth in my head, and that the bleeding both outside and inside my mouth was only minor, I carried on.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P6GJ1P_Idqw/UtyKB77LURI/AAAAAAAADWc/ajjIqIkIZFE/s1600/mermoz+(1).jpg)
About to break a big blob of ice off, which nearly got me back by trying to break my teeth off. This was an amazing pitch. The granite on either side was totally smooth. My whole world was a foot wide sliver of ice for about 30 minutes.
On the 6th pitch I climbed through a hard and precarious bulge back onto an ice runnel with an improbable looking overhanging corner above, which was dripping with thin blobs of ice. Until then, the route had been quite well protected, so we had both been happy to push hard with the climbing. But here, there was no rock gear to be had. Everything was verglassed. Because another mixed route was strictly our backup, we hadn’t taken any spectres or ice screws, which would have been the only protection for the next 60 feet or so. It was pretty frustrating. I could see it looked about tech 9 and would probably go. But there was no way I could justify trying with my last good protection already 40 feet below. So I made the only decision available; to go down. Even though there was no way I was going to risk my neck to carry on, it’s still a tough choice to reverse from a route in such a special place.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LIFyh3ONvqs/UtxIbz9N0bI/AAAAAAAADU8/u9LIZC7ehJw/s1600/mermoz+1.jpg)
Setting off into overhangingness, only to retreat from 60 feet higher.
After the abseils off, walking back to camp and then El Chalten was ankle hell. Today I’m barely able to walk at all. But I’d love to go back to the route for another go with the right gear, if the weather gives us a chance before we leave. After studying my photos of the face, it looks like only another 60 to 80 feet of hard climbing before the wall leans back and starts to become more featured again.
I’m also learning a lot about the logistics here, and in the process making a few mistakes. We carried a little too much gear, and should have walked in from Chalten earlier in the day so the snow was in better condition to get to our intended bivi spot. There wasn’t much we could do about having the wrong gear for the mixed route, since that wasn’t our planned objective. I was amazed that we got as far as we did. Unfinished business is unfinished business. It's not in my nature to completely forget about that. However, in this case, the climbing to our highpoint was just so good that my mind was filled with the great moments we had up to there, and how nice it was going to be to finally take off my boots after walking and climbing for 30 out of the last 37 hours.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J5yY7KOoyWk/UtyKBxtUqoI/AAAAAAAADWg/jvkCvNb1UmE/s1600/mermoz.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JZ8eeqi1rLs/UtxKn2VGhdI/AAAAAAAADVo/rxW5rn1s0R4/s1600/mermoz+7.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ICqoTMztins/UtxMTx1RMfI/AAAAAAAADWA/cdPH4LNTo0A/s1600/mermoz+9.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rktp-Bb5F1g/UtxJEaCt7FI/AAAAAAAADVU/RVCISPZOsOI/s1600/mermoz+4.jpg)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KCvTrgS0dUE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Orient Express FWA (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/XW7ZWiqkBoI/orient-express-fwa.html)
19 February 2014, 1:04 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0RhV-drAI3k/UwSlTbDnewI/AAAAAAAADW8/arVWJUHFrSA/s1600/Orient+Express+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0RhV-drAI3k/UwSlTbDnewI/AAAAAAAADW8/arVWJUHFrSA/s1600/Orient+Express+2.jpg)
Adam Hughes seconding the crux pitch of Orient Express IX,8, Ben Nevis
I’ve been back from Patagonia for a week or two and every waking hour has been filled with family time, travelling to lectures, a bit of filmmaking and continuing to work flat out on my injuries book. Oh and a bit of mixed climbing.
Given the ridiculous volumes of snow on Ben Nevis this season, I had a mind to return to a route I’d had an abortive attempt on a few years ago. Orient Express is a summer E2 5c on the first platform of North East Buttress. After I did the first winter ascent of Steam Train (HVS) just to the right in 2006, I decided to see if it would go in winter. I had my doubts, since it was a slabby and bold looking E2. I guessed it might be too slopey and too bold to be climbable with ice tools.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1s5HHxfXpEc/UwSlOB0Up0I/AAAAAAAADW0/gu9kw6EYt5w/s1600/Orient+Express+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1s5HHxfXpEc/UwSlOB0Up0I/AAAAAAAADW0/gu9kw6EYt5w/s1600/Orient+Express+1.jpg)
Good winter line for an E2!
I had a go with Michael Tweedley in a pretty bad blizzard and got to the technical crux, where I could find no hooks at all. It felt like a total dead end, with only rounded smears leading up a steepening in the slabby ramp. But Nevis new lines tend to simmer in my mind, and I felt that if it ever got any real build up on the ramp, there might be some useful neve to make progress.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iCs030tIDpc/UwSlZ8ODxgI/AAAAAAAADXU/EY9z9W5FhjM/s1600/IMG_0567.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iCs030tIDpc/UwSlZ8ODxgI/AAAAAAAADXU/EY9z9W5FhjM/s1600/IMG_0567.jpg)In early Feb I returned with Calum Muskett and subjected him to a long, cold belay while I probed around back at the blank looking crux for ages. There was some cruddy snow sticking to the ramps, but it was useless for the tools. Eventually, I found the tiniest flat hooks, a few mms wide to teeter upwards and onto a good flake and some gear. But above was a long section with only a couple of very poor peckers for protection, followed by another crux to gain access to the upper ramp system. I teetered about for ages, but finally couldn’t find any hooks to get over the bulge and decided to downclimb to the last gear I was happy to weight, apologising to Calum for inflicting such a cold belay on him.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sRgGqvGSpcc/UwSlXOwhWBI/AAAAAAAADXI/Ztf8aYx96lQ/s1600/IMG_0566.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sRgGqvGSpcc/UwSlXOwhWBI/AAAAAAAADXI/Ztf8aYx96lQ/s1600/IMG_0566.jpg)
The ramps were well covered in snow, and I thought the recent freeze-thaws at this altitude might turn them into some useful ice. So yesterday I returned with Adam Hughes to see if I could get any higher. I regained my highpoint after an hour or so and could see a couple of blobs of cruddy neve well out left of the top bulge. Over the course of a good number of forays, I stretched up and tried to reach the ice blob, but it was just too far. The best I could get was a highly dubious stick just below it. After a bit of working up to it, I committed to swapping hands on the bad stick and reached the ice blob above, which did rip through a bit as I rocked over onto the bulge. Too late, I was either going up, or off!
Thankfully the peckers weren’t tested today and we continued up lovely ice on the ramps to the top.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XiYP7QLjyGI/UwSlXJPYvaI/AAAAAAAADXE/6AQ9x8chaU0/s1600/Orient+Express+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XiYP7QLjyGI/UwSlXJPYvaI/AAAAAAAADXE/6AQ9x8chaU0/s1600/Orient+Express+3.jpg)
Adam getting stuck into great, if poorly protected ice on pitch 2.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/XW7ZWiqkBoI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review of 2013 climbing (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/QSDlYXex5Oc/review-of-2013-climbing.html)
14 March 2014, 11:10 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ak5M_R9hrrg/UyLjNPhmkwI/AAAAAAAADXk/2Z7ugfUDg_I/s1600/march14+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ak5M_R9hrrg/UyLjNPhmkwI/AAAAAAAADXk/2Z7ugfUDg_I/s1600/march14+1.jpg)
Eiger north face. One of the best bits of 2013 climbing for me.
I wrote the post below a while ago, but just posting it now. It's mainly for my own benefit to see what I did in 2013 and get an idea of what direction to head in 2014.
2012 which was a year of intense projecting for me (to climb Font 8b+ in Switzerland and redpoint my long term 9a project at Steall). So in 2013 I made a casual decision to swing the other way and go to some new places and do some disciplines (multipitch climbing and dry tooling) which I haven’t done much of for ages.
In January 2013 I was just learning to climb again after surgery on my right ankle. I kicked the year off with a nice week in Spain where I was able to start gaining some confidence and claw some fitness back on Malsonando (8c).
In February I started to be able to move around cautiously on crampons and in the mountains, and after a couple of short winter routes, I inadvertently got involved with the huge overhanging walls near the CIC cascades on Ben Nevis. I had gone up with Kev Shields to have a day of ice pitches starting with the cascade itself, but I ended up deciding to give the big seam across the roof a look and this became the best dry tooling route I’ve ever done. It was a fantastic piece of climbing. Unfortunately it proved a bit too controversial for the Scottish winter scene, so I ended up not even claiming it as a route. I say it was a bit too controversial, but any time it comes up in conversation with climbers, they have universally told me they couldn't see the problem a few folk had with it. It's just that they didn't say so on the public discussion at the time.
In March I put a bit of work into my linkup idea, but it didn’t come together this year. There were about 4 days when it looked like I might get lucky and all the climbs would be in condition. But it was always going to be a tall order, and so it’ll have to wait. It’s such an amazing project though, so I am super keen for my next opportunity to try it.
For the rest of the spring, I did some important work to set me and my family up for the long term. We moved house in the summer to Roybridge and now have a great base for all our MacLeod needs. Settling into a good house is something I feel is very important to be able to sustain a good lifestyle over the decades to come. It takes a huge amount of work and some sacrifices in the short term. But I’m certain it’s worth it. So during April and May I worked as hard as I could to prepare my house for sale. Houses in the highlands often take north of 2 years to sell, and that would have made life quite difficult for us. I was determined to give ourselves the best chance to complete the sale and move more quickly. The work paid off. We sold our old place in Letterfinlay to the first couple who viewed it.
During this period I was also doing a bit of running. Right after my surgery in Nov 2012, I entered the West Highland Way footrace (95 miles) as a little goal to help me with my recovery, and because It’s something I’ve always wanted to try. Unfortunately, the injuries to my foot and ankle were just too bad to allow it. I could only run intermittently during the spring and although I did manage some not bad runs, my plantar fascia which was nearly ruptured in the accident started to hurt more and more in the couple of weeks leading up to the race. I still lined up at the start line, knowing full well I wouldn’t be going far. I ran 20 miles to Balmaha. Although the rest of me was not even warmed up, my right foot was screaming in pain and I got in the car. It was a bitter moment for me. I doubt that I’ll ever be able to run again due to the damage in my ankle joint, although I continue to keep an open mind about this.
My trip to Pabbay with Donald King was a nice contrast to the running. We went with the objective of making the first free ascent of the Pabbay Arch project, tried by Cubby and later Steve McClure. I redpointed it very quickly and it is one of the most spectacular trad climbs I’ve ever seen. I’d love to go back to that roof sometime.
It was around this time that I had a call to say my father had been taken into hospital with pneumonia. What followed was a difficult three weeks where his condition looked initially not too bad, then deteriorated steadily until he died. Needless to say this had quite an effect on me and the process of dealing with it is not really over.
I hadn’t climbed for around 6 weeks when the date came around to meet Calum in the alps for a few weeks of trying hard alpine faces. I was unfit, but not really in a caring sort of mood, so I was happy to go straight for the hardest route on the list (Paciencia on the Eiger north face) and just see what happened. I was able to climb it by leaning on skills other than fitness. It was a fun experience, but in hindsight I still was not really in a good place.
After the Eiger we headed to the Dolomites to repeat Bellavista on Cima Ovest, but we were met by a week of thunderstorms. So I went home and hastily arranged a last chance return trip with Alan Cassidy two weeks later.
Unfortunately, during that two weeks, while climbing with Natalie, I made a little mistake while leading Hold Fast, Hold True (E9 6c) in Glen Nevis and decked out, badly spraining my left ankle and breaking off several bone spurs around the rim of the joint. They had been growing since I last broke that ankle, 16 years ago, when a hold snapped during a solo of a grit E8. I knew I would need surgery, but couldn’t get it until after the dolomites trip. The day before I was due to leave for the dolomites, the swelling went down enough to get a rock shoe on my foot, so we went out, again with a ‘don’t give a ….’ attitude on my part.
I had to walk on the scree as if I was walking on broken glass, but once climbing I felt like I could go up the rock, if a little like a robot. Nothing was working anyway, it was raining, snowing and then really snowing. So on the last day when we went up to strip our fixed rope from the crux roof, I really didn’t care. That, combined with the training effect of trying to climb it when it was soaking wet for the preceding week, was a perfect scenario. It was winter conditions, but finally dry, and I was in the mood for a good fight with the pitch. So I climbed it. On the place home I remember not quite believing I’d managed to get two great alpine ticks like those two routes despite such poor preparation before the trips.
Once home, I was just on surgery countdown, and afterwards, taking the long walk through the valley of rehab, every night, doing my strange exercises standing on one leg. It’s not a whole lot of fun, but there’s no choice. Rehab exercises make you better. Finally after 6 weeks, I’m able to do winter walk-ins and even managed to jump down from about head height onto my feet at TCA.
Just now I’m flying to Patagonia for a month of whatever the Patagonian weather throws at us. I’m a little apprehensive about my lack of recent climbing, to say the least. However, I am never the type to rate my chances. What I need to remember is how much good climbing I got done in 2013 despite 2 surgeries, 2 months of DIY and dealing with the loss of my father. I also found time to write another 40,000 words or so of my injuries book which gets ever closer to being ready. I’m halfway through a redraft now and the ingredients are one by one falling into place. Working on this book has taken a huge amount of my energy and I think it will be a massive weight of my shoulders when it is complete, not to mention freeing up a lot more hours in the week for everything from climbing to spending time with my family.
In 2014 my goals are to be a bit more organised about trying the projects I want to try. Instead of just taking things as they come I want to focus on one thing until it’s done. I always work better in this mode and I need to get back to it. I also have realised I want to make some major changes in the way I train. Some of these are practical things which will mean I can get more training done and keep better control over it’s content. But I also want to change my approach to performing a bit too. I think it will make a big difference. You never know what life brings, but I would like it if the next year had less big upsets than last year. After a lot of travelling in 2013 I’m really excited about spending more time based at home in my new house and raiding projects from there. I'm also looking forward to be neither awaiting or recovering from surgery, after the year of being held back by injuries.
After Patagonia I’ve got some great Scottish projects lined up in all the climbing disciplines for the spring and early summer and then I’d like to go to the alps to try a mind blowing new route I’ve seen. I’m also going to build the most badass training board ever in my new garage!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/QSDlYXex5Oc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Clif Bar (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/sCo2wBmIlVk/clif-bar.html)
14 March 2014, 11:28 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ocN9ZucOMm4/UyLmHAvpDeI/AAAAAAAADXw/B-WfuOySHkQ/s1600/CLIF-Bar.jpg) (http://www.clifbar.co.uk/)
I have a new sponsor! During our arrangements to head to Patagonia I spoke to Clif Bar (http://www.clifbar.co.uk/) and will be now be eating a lot of Clif Bars in the hills. I’ve always been buying Clif bars by the box load online and had thought about speaking to them directly for some time. So it was a nice surprise that we got in touch with each other through our Patagonia trip.
Their Energy Bars (oat, raisin and walnut bars are my favourite) have long been a staple for me for mountain days. But I also often eat the Builder’s Bars (http://www.clifbar.co.uk/products/clif-builders) after training sessions or when I’m trying to be careful about weight. I used to get boxes of them from Amazon if they were hard to find in the retail stores, but they are much easier to find in outdoor retailers now, such as Cotswolds. Finding energy/recovery bars that are actually nice to eat and made of good ingredients can be a lot harder than you’d think it ought to be. For running back in the spring I was using a lot of their Clif-shot blocs as an alternative to gels. I still use gels when the time is right but the blocs are pleasant to eat on training runs and a good way of pacing your CHO intake.
I'm off to munch one now..
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/sCo2wBmIlVk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Sorting my life out (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/DNRDVGbXxxw/sorting-my-life-out.html)
14 March 2014, 12:16 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RfQXFMpN5c/UyLwEY6ce9I/AAAAAAAADYI/Inaq0SAgaDM/s1600/march14+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0RfQXFMpN5c/UyLwEY6ce9I/AAAAAAAADYI/Inaq0SAgaDM/s1600/march14+4.jpg)
Walking out from the Mermoz in Patagonia, frustrated by yet more crap weather and conditions. With a bit of time to think about our trip there, the memory of the waiting is fading and the fire to return growing. Photo: Calum Muskett
During February Ive had a lot of sorting out of my life to do since getting home from Patagonia. These sorts of periods are never very good for your health. It’s not good for you to get less than 8 hours of sleep for long periods. So I have to be careful. However, I have got a lot of important stuff done or in progress.
First of all, I have been continuing to tie up my injuries book. I’ve been editing the text and collating feedback from other I’ve shown it too. I’m most grateful for the feedback which has been excellent. John at Croft Eleven is preparing the illustrations and I have finalised the list of photos I need to take. It’s really taken a huge step forward over the past three months and I’m excited to see the last bits fall into place. I’ve read a huge amount of research over the past months and most eager to share the developments in the different fields of sports medicine that are relevant to climbers.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZHmcZOZE9w/UyLwMNi0pBI/AAAAAAAADYo/Vl7k6rYbkEo/s1600/wall+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qZHmcZOZE9w/UyLwMNi0pBI/AAAAAAAADYo/Vl7k6rYbkEo/s1600/wall+1.jpg)
A little help from friends. Kev and Michael helping place a lot of T-nuts in my new climbing wall.
Second, I’ve been preparing to build my uber, badass, kick ass, stormer of a climbing wall at my new place in Roy Bridge. I have a large double garage which is shortly to be the best private bouldering centre in Scotland. Hopefully, some of you will be climbing at it too as I might run some technique coaching courses here at some point in the future. Scott at Dream Climbing Walls is designing and building the wall with me. To say I’m excited to see it done is a bit of an understatement. The garage is emptied, prepared and painted and the panels are T-nutted ready for us to start building in a couple of weeks time.
With various lectures and bits of work during Feb out of the way I was hoping to get out winter climbing, but there is a bit of a blip just now with some warm weather, which was needed anyway to consolidate the snow on the hills. Yesterday I was out on rock in Scotland for the first time this year. I was feeling not bad for a start to the season. I did a bit of bouldering and trad with Calum, showing him around the Polldubh crags.
Finally, I've been starting to plan my trips for the summer. I have at least three big trips to new place in Scotland in mind, and one big one to the alps. Most definitely motivation for training as the rain falls outside.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PNvYmFLBpaw/UyLwLPwvYAI/AAAAAAAADYg/4KSgoBtTmdA/s1600/march14+7.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PNvYmFLBpaw/UyLwLPwvYAI/AAAAAAAADYg/4KSgoBtTmdA/s1600/march14+7.jpg)
Calum on the less than well protected Centrepiece, E6 6b, Glen Nevis yesterday.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRurbU2JWHM/UyLwJWOW_VI/AAAAAAAADYY/-guAky8BN7g/s1600/march14+8.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZRurbU2JWHM/UyLwJWOW_VI/AAAAAAAADYY/-guAky8BN7g/s1600/march14+8.jpg)
Calum enjoying Jahu, E6 6a, Glen Nevis
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o-tK7SoS0OI/UyLwEGaPLNI/AAAAAAAADYE/BKS_zFXo_GA/s1600/march14+5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o-tK7SoS0OI/UyLwEGaPLNI/AAAAAAAADYE/BKS_zFXo_GA/s1600/march14+5.jpg)
Two nutters walking straight up towards number 5 gully on the Ben on a Cat 4 day with tons of snow being blown around. Surprise surprise, they got avalanched a few minutes later. Some folk are so casual with their own chances of survival.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bmp3i1GjKNA/UyLwDmFxAbI/AAAAAAAADYA/NEeVvSJh11c/s1600/march14+6.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Bmp3i1GjKNA/UyLwDmFxAbI/AAAAAAAADYA/NEeVvSJh11c/s1600/march14+6.jpg)
Trying a new route on Ben Nevis with Donald. The storm got worse and worse and Donald eventually lowered off a pecker hand placed over a flake. We had to crawl in a whiteout back to the CIC hut. Good to be out in weather like that.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMqdFQvX60c/UyLwSBSTJWI/AAAAAAAADYw/gB9rP9bJVvk/s1600/wall+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMqdFQvX60c/UyLwSBSTJWI/AAAAAAAADYw/gB9rP9bJVvk/s1600/wall+2.jpg)
Two huge avalanches in the Grey Corries, taken from my living room window last week. Cant imagine how much snow moved in these two monsters.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/DNRDVGbXxxw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Two videos from Patagonia (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/t5ZS8JkHPHw/two-videos-from-patagonia.html)
17 March 2014, 12:57 pm
Above is a video of a super problem I did in Patagonia called Wasabi (V12). I made the video while I was out there but the connection was too bad to upload it. I’d seen video of it before I went out and was determined to climb it while I was there. In the end it only took a few sessions.
The next video was put together by Calum Muskett of an attempt on a hard new mixed route on the east face of the Mermoz. Unfortunately we didn't have the right gear to protect a pitch high up and just didn't get another weather window to try again, this time.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/t5ZS8JkHPHw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Andy Nisbet film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/BmLxl6GsKi8/andy-nisbet-film.html)
18 March 2014, 9:20 am
Here is a little film that myself and Claire made about Andy Nisbet. Every year the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) make an award for excellence in Mountain Culture. Andy was this year’s recipient and this film talks about his contribution which is huge. I went out filming with Andy and climbing partners, attempting a new route on Beinn Fhada and captured some pretty scary footage of them going for it and falling off! Enjoy!
It's great to see Andy recognised for being an inspiration to so many climbers and a huge direct help to them through his exhaustive and diligent guidebook work over the decades. Thanks Andy.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/BmLxl6GsKi8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Choosing carefully on the Ben (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/-Ddr3HinALY/choosing-carefully-on-ben.html)
27 March 2014, 10:04 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-huHQ7dWHlFE/UzPvxSZCQKI/AAAAAAAADZ4/wMwIlpbDhhI/s1600/cw1+5.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-huHQ7dWHlFE/UzPvxSZCQKI/AAAAAAAADZ4/wMwIlpbDhhI/s1600/cw1+5.jpg)
On the steep corner of Rutless, VII,8 Ben Nevis. My camera misted up a bit in the west coast air!
After a huge dump of fresh snow, a lot of folk, including myself, were desperate to get back up the Ben and get some winter routes in. I walked in on a rather wet morning with Helen and Harry to see what we could safely get to. Not much. In the CIC hut, we went round in circles trying to figure out what would be frozen, but not going to avalanche us. In the end, we walked out of the door with no plan, and just went upwards, expecting nothing.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9aWc1vjaoTo/UzPvvLtYdrI/AAAAAAAADZk/wVZxPYFQ5kA/s1600/cw1+1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9aWc1vjaoTo/UzPvvLtYdrI/AAAAAAAADZk/wVZxPYFQ5kA/s1600/cw1+1.jpg)
Ice damage
Harry had mentioned a steep wall on the Douglas Boulder. Going beyond this looked dangerous, and it looked a bit more frozen than expected, so we tied in and started going up. After Helen’s tunneling pitch (in snow) and my tunneling pitch (the Gutless chimney), we arrived below the wall. Harry passed me back the lead and I set off, at first trying to go rightwards, before getting pumped trying to get any protection in an ice choked overhanging crack. Eventually, I settled for going left which was a god bit easier, although I was already quite tired from the direct venture.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKdtaARRUHQ/UzPvvcgSVoI/AAAAAAAADZs/ojNIX0eAVu0/s1600/cw1+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pKdtaARRUHQ/UzPvvcgSVoI/AAAAAAAADZs/ojNIX0eAVu0/s1600/cw1+2.jpg)
Helen moving a lot of snow to make upward progress.
Our late start and chilled out pace meant it was actually getting dark as we were abseiling off the top of the Douglas boulder. With bottomless windslab in the gully below, we continued abseiling down the slopes all the way back to our sacks for safety. We later found out that the route I took had been climbed a few years before by Nick Bullock and Matt Helicker (Rutless VII,8). It’s a good choice for a stormy or dangerous day on the Ben.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YPyPgl8dnDI/UzPvuf5qKuI/AAAAAAAADZg/xM6gys3rvgQ/s1600/cw1+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YPyPgl8dnDI/UzPvuf5qKuI/AAAAAAAADZg/xM6gys3rvgQ/s1600/cw1+3.jpg)
Harry and Helen enjoying the belay ledge.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHrAXVpCOf4/UzP3W2EK33I/AAAAAAAADac/_cc3uZflrVM/s1600/cw1+4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KHrAXVpCOf4/UzP3W2EK33I/AAAAAAAADac/_cc3uZflrVM/s1600/cw1+4.jpg)
A lot of folk walking out in the morning owing to the tricky conditions for accessing the classic routes.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/-Ddr3HinALY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing wall build, Day 1 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/u6yBV4tgyG8/climbing-wall-build-day-1.html)
27 March 2014, 10:10 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ukZGw16Jlz8/UzP3zr04ruI/AAAAAAAADak/ZyKuMMzPXiw/s1600/cw1+6.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ukZGw16Jlz8/UzP3zr04ruI/AAAAAAAADak/ZyKuMMzPXiw/s1600/cw1+6.jpg)
Day 1 of building my wall! Moving trusses, sawing, grinding, drilling and generally trying to keep up with Scott Muir from Dream Climbing Walls.
So excited.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/u6yBV4tgyG8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing wall, Day 3 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/avAPqeQB0aE/climbing-wall-day-3.html)
31 March 2014, 7:59 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H-QQ-SQzlsk/UzkTzySU3VI/AAAAAAAADa0/pepoSQ1SmvM/s1600/cw3+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H-QQ-SQzlsk/UzkTzySU3VI/AAAAAAAADa0/pepoSQ1SmvM/s1600/cw3+1.jpg)
By day 2 of building my climbing wall, we’d moved the horizontal trusses up, giving four metres of height. Then it was time to start cutting and drilling the timber frame.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbSnYzkhwd4/UzkT3NkgIjI/AAAAAAAADbM/vo487NGWzD4/s1600/cw3+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZbSnYzkhwd4/UzkT3NkgIjI/AAAAAAAADbM/vo487NGWzD4/s1600/cw3+2.jpg)
By the end of day three, we’d build most of the frame and I could start to see what the wall space will be like for the first time. It looks soooo good!
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0WlkD_iMuY/UzkT1fOAqwI/AAAAAAAADa8/fMS7o0_IDqc/s1600/cw3+3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x0WlkD_iMuY/UzkT1fOAqwI/AAAAAAAADa8/fMS7o0_IDqc/s1600/cw3+3.jpg)
Scott from Dream Climbing Walls would be back on Monday, so I had the weekend off. I was feeling a bit fatigued after the building mission. But I was too excited and carried on over the weekend, doing more building and making holds out of hardwood. With any luck, within a week or a bit more, I'll be training on it and getting fit for the rock season.
A nice break came in the form of taking Freida camping since the Lochaber monsoon has finally broken at last. We had a great wee adventure. I woke to the sound of heavy breathing outside the tent in the wee small hours. I peeked outside to see around 15 highland cows surrounding the tent. I’m very much looking forward to taking Frieda on more adventures like this in the hills over the summer.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ELkRJ0bim2Q/UzkT2UtwzNI/AAAAAAAADbE/RjY2YA7j3S0/s1600/cw3+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ELkRJ0bim2Q/UzkT2UtwzNI/AAAAAAAADbE/RjY2YA7j3S0/s1600/cw3+4.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/avAPqeQB0aE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing wall, week 3. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/E70E1zVMK8w/climbing-wall-week-3.html)
8 April 2014, 3:05 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QM__keF7-pQ/U0QMTVLEX0I/AAAAAAAADb4/-JdmiN32IJY/s1600/cw7+4.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QM__keF7-pQ/U0QMTVLEX0I/AAAAAAAADb4/-JdmiN32IJY/s1600/cw7+4.jpg)
I was hoping to keep posting some daily, or at least frequent climbing wall progress updates. But the chain 16+ hour days working on it kept me rather busy. It has come on a lot over the past week.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ibDh8ilyaHI/U0QMSbYQCBI/AAAAAAAADb0/bDqAnNU7bi8/s1600/cw7+5.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ibDh8ilyaHI/U0QMSbYQCBI/AAAAAAAADb0/bDqAnNU7bi8/s1600/cw7+5.jpg)
All the ply is now on and tidied up with a mission of long hours and going for it with Scott Muir from Dream Climbing Walls (http://www.dreamclimbingwalls.com/). Now the structure is built, it’s up to me to get it all finished. Last night was a bit ridiculous, still washing sanding dust off it at 4am. But today the first coat of paint has been going on and it’s looking great.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jhikW_s_wR8/U0QMTZp5_MI/AAAAAAAADb8/6W06IUpBu8w/s1600/cw7+6.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jhikW_s_wR8/U0QMTZp5_MI/AAAAAAAADb8/6W06IUpBu8w/s1600/cw7+6.jpg)
I took a couple of days off after Scott left and went to Glasgow. I managed to get my hands on some of Malcolm Smith’s new resin holds which are launching in a couple of weeks under the brand Stonesmith (https://www.facebook.com/stonesmithholds). They are pretty cool and I’ll post up some pics as soon as the paint dries on the wall and I can get them on.
I’ve also been making some of my own holds from hardwood. I’ve never had the tools for working with wood before, but have accumulated some better tools over the past year and I’m really keen to get better at making nice holds. Well made wooden holds are something a bit special.
Not too long now before I can get rockshoes on and start training on this beast!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCdOjpoUZHM/U0QMPSyMEtI/AAAAAAAADbc/klQ4W4ucWAw/s1600/cw7+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCdOjpoUZHM/U0QMPSyMEtI/AAAAAAAADbc/klQ4W4ucWAw/s1600/cw7+1.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V88nls6EHXE/U0QMPuzY-MI/AAAAAAAADbg/Z5SvwVDHsmk/s1600/cw7+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V88nls6EHXE/U0QMPuzY-MI/AAAAAAAADbg/Z5SvwVDHsmk/s1600/cw7+2.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rpIh0VVoMLI/U0QMP3O6XLI/AAAAAAAADbs/j_s153DRtMw/s1600/cw7+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rpIh0VVoMLI/U0QMP3O6XLI/AAAAAAAADbs/j_s153DRtMw/s1600/cw7+3.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/E70E1zVMK8w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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4 new titles in the shop. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/NWiawCNsr4Y/4-new-titles-in-shop.html)
26 April 2014, 3:02 pm
We’ve just added four great new books and DVDs to the shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html). The first three books are all major contributions to the literature on improving at climbing and I’d recommend getting hold of all three. Well done to the authors of all of them who have made a great contribution here and no doubt these books will be the first step to many hard ascents and goals realised in the future.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/gimmekraftbig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/gimmekraft.html)Gimme Kraft: (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/gimmekraft.html) The Cafe Kraft gym (Kraft = strength btw) in Nurnberg, Germany has gained a great reputation for coaching a string of fantastic climbing talents over the past few years, most notably, Alex Megos who became the first climber to onsight 9a. Their coaches have put together a new book and DVD detailing the principles and exercises they have used to help their talented young climbers become super strong and fit beasts.
So the book is very focused on physical strength and endurance training, both on and off the climbing wall. It provides a great and easy to follow manual for sharpening up weak areas in your strength. This is particularly useful since it can be hard to choose or adapt core strength routines from other sports for climbing.
Both the book and DVD show clearly how to do the basic strength and endurance exercises and the DVD contains many interesting interviews with climbing legends about training and climbing performance.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/newalpinismbig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/newalpinism.html)Training for the new Alpinism: (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/newalpinism.html)Steve House and Scott Johnston’s new book on training for alpinism is a much awaited and weighty addition to the available literature on training for climbing. It is the first book to focus solely on alpinism and brings the field right up to date. It is very much training focused (as opposed to skills focused), which is both it’s greatest strength and weakness.
It contains clear and extensive sections on the basic principles of sports physiology, but with the discussion relating directly to climbing in an alpine setting. So you no longer have to learn and then adapt the principles used in other endurance sports to effectively plan your training regime. It also has great and focused sections on strength, mental skills, nutrition, altitude, schedule planning and choosing your training goals. It also contains some fantastic contributions from other world class alpinists, sharing what they have learned about the most effective ways yo improve your alpine climbing.
Its focus on physical rather than technical skills training means there should probably be more than just this book in your training library. However, it joins a collection of titles that are essential reading for climbers who are serious about improving.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/tradclimbersbiblebig.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tradclimbersbible.html)The Trad Climber’s Bible: (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/tradclimbersbible.html)The skills for trad climbing are about as broad as in any sport. This is especially true if you wish to climb in many different settings - hard, technical single pitch climbs, big walls and and alpine faces. The Trad Climber’s Bible comes at the challenge of passing on these skills from a different angle from most instructional manuals.
I jumped at the chance to order it in for the davemacleod.com shop simply because it was authored by the American trad legends John Long and Peter Croft. I was fascinated by how they had approached the challenge of writing about trad skills. They have written the book in a narrative style, with many stories and anecdotes from their combined 70 year experience of pushing their limits on trad all over the world.
Some of the sections, such as those on ‘fiddling’ and ‘embracing the weird’ made me smile as they highlighted the sheer range of unusual skills that are nonetheless essential to be a successful trad climber. It’s a big, thorough, entertaining and inspiring book which will provide much food for thought and arm you with many more skills to throw at your next big lead. Excellent photography throughout and great value for what has clearly been a huge project for the authors.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/wideboyz2_big.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/wideboyz2.html)Wideboyz II: (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/wideboyz2.html) The Wideboyz, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, have decided to turn their hand to finger cracks, with the goal of repeating the hardest and most famous of all finger cracks - Cobra Crack (8c) in Squamish. In their own Wideboyz style, they convert their offwidth training den into a finger sqaushing setup and proceed to train, hard. Still, Cobra Crack put up a good fight! Entertaining as ever, and a reminder that focusing and trying damn hard goes a long, long way.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/NWiawCNsr4Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Holds going on my wall, and new routing on Harris (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/MdwkWRdGjhc/holds-going-on-my-wall-and-new-routing.html)
26 April 2014, 3:21 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vEaBP9JOcM/U1vLI6Zu1hI/AAAAAAAADcU/LY_eglyyFvY/s1600/cw8.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4vEaBP9JOcM/U1vLI6Zu1hI/AAAAAAAADcU/LY_eglyyFvY/s1600/cw8.jpg)Some holds going on the climbing wall at last!
After a month straight of 16 hour days on average, my climbing wall is finished. Well, apart from getting all the holds on. I must admit that after completing the build and various other jobs that needed doing at my place, I was a bit too broken to even climb on it. I just wanted to sleep! But now there are some holds going on it I’m getting more and more excited as it turns from a building project into what I had originally envisioned - a brilliant place to train.
However, rather than jump straight on it, I opted to take advantage of the dry weather and head to the Outer Hebrides for a couple of days new routing and prospecting with Calum Muskett. We did a handful of new lines from E3 to E5 and I worked on this immaculate 40m wall of perfect Gneiss that has been on my projects to look at list for a few years. It was just as good as I hoped, if maybe a little hard.
There were a couple of different ways you could go. The best, and hardest looks upwards of 8b+ climbing with adequate gear. But the crux is super hard. On the first day I was climbing all day in a Citadel jacket (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/citadel-jacket) and still had numb hands in the wind. In those conditions I could get some purchase on the crux crimps, but couldn’t see how to use them. The next day it was much warmer and I needed a bit of help from the rope to stay on, but did get a sequence that may work. So now I have something great to direct my training, and an excuse to get the ferry back to Harris pretty soon.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-huD3CeZIh_c/U1vLKV6Ox6I/AAAAAAAADcg/lMTfd0ns2PU/s1600/7awall.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-huD3CeZIh_c/U1vLKV6Ox6I/AAAAAAAADcg/lMTfd0ns2PU/s1600/7awall.jpg)
A very very hard project to go back to.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/MdwkWRdGjhc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Hebrides with Natalie (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/2rqzNeIbiFo/hebrides-with-natalie.html)
12 May 2014, 12:17 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QR813tjAsDk/U3CvAkG7PHI/AAAAAAAADc8/pUGLsYwbDm8/s1600/Nat+link+003.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QR813tjAsDk/U3CvAkG7PHI/AAAAAAAADc8/pUGLsYwbDm8/s1600/Nat+link+003.jpg)
Natalie Berry enjoying The Prozac Link, E4, Screaming Geo, Lewis.
Natalie Berry has been a very successful youth competition and sport climber for several years. Now in her early twenties, with podium places and 8b red points under her belt, she is motivated to move into adventure climbing and has just started trad climbing. We had a few days booked in to head north and get some routes in, taking the Hot Aches Productions crew with us. Although I’ve known Natalie for many years from our days living in Glasgow, we’ve never climbed outdoors together until last year. These days we are colleagues on the Scarpa (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/) and Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/) teams too!
The poor forecast told us to get the ferry to the Western Isles for the best possible chance of dry rock. With a wealth of mountain and sea cliffs of all different shapes and sizes, and plenty of new routes still to explore, Lewis and Harris are always still high on my list of places to hit when the warm weather arrives, despite the fact I’ve climbed there a lot over the years. To be honest, I like to go there for the general vibe of the place even more than the climbing. Stress tends to disappear here. After 5 days here I feel like I have more energy than I have for many months.(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ykMsT7K9r3U/U3C1ot9Wb9I/AAAAAAAADds/HCrTegO9pUM/s1600/top+out.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ykMsT7K9r3U/U3C1ot9Wb9I/AAAAAAAADds/HCrTegO9pUM/s1600/top+out.jpg)
Sunshine at the Aird Uig sea cliffs, Lewis. Photo: Hot Aches Productions (http://hotaches.com/)
On our first day, the mountain crags were looking a bit windy, wet and cold so we ended up at the Uig sea cliffs, where Nat dispatched her first E1 with ease. She was still looking a little uncertain how to approach trad pitches; arranging the protection, breaking the pitch down into chunks, and dealing with ‘trad’ type features of wet jamming cracks loose rock and the odd bird.
I got a nice E6 done, initially thinking it was new but later finding out it had been done by Jacob Cook recently. Good to see some other folk visiting the islands and putting routes up.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RTWWVpZAgaM/U3C1lFfEJzI/AAAAAAAADdo/Htm5emZKwII/s1600/kilnseyE6.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RTWWVpZAgaM/U3C1lFfEJzI/AAAAAAAADdo/Htm5emZKwII/s1600/kilnseyE6.jpg)
Repeating a nice E6 at the Flannan area. Photo: Hot Aches Productions.
The next day we went to Aird Feinis with Cubby’s excellent Top Tackle Tips (E6) in mind. But big waves battering the base of it prevented us. So we had a top rope play on two new routes, one hard E7 and the other hard E8. Nat also had a play on the E7, and obviously had no trouble doing the moves.
On day 3 we visited the Boardwalk where Nat onsighted an E2, again without any bother at all. I climbed one E4, then backed off another soggy one. At the end of the day, Nat went for an E4 with a bouldery crux right off the ground. After some deliberation about where to start, she pulled off the ground, only for the very first hold to break off a nanosecond later. Nat plonked down on her bum on the wave platform, and we laughed that she survived her first trad groundfall. I tied in and tried another hold that stayed on the wall.
An obvious good objective for the trip was the super classic Prozac Link (4 pitch E4) in Screaming Geo. It’s widely regarded as among the finest E4s in Britain, and it’s a mega trip across the great arch; guaranteed to provide an adventure. We started up it in glorious hot sun, but cracks still damp from the sea spray, so I led. The next two pitches had a couple of wet holds or unobvious gear so I led those too, and both of us were enjoying the increasing exposure.
Hanging on the belay before the final and crux pitch, I thought it would be interesting to see what Nat decided about this pitch. Would she lead? On such a classic route, on a great day, it seemed like a good moment to take a step up. Would she feel ready? When she arrived at the belay, it was obvious she was determined to go for it. Once she set off, her movements across the wall made it even more obvious. She was going up this pitch no matter what. It was great to watch.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wwozd7jpyHA/U3CvEQXe0yI/AAAAAAAADdE/dyKeP1uh-2Q/s1600/Nat+link+004.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Wwozd7jpyHA/U3CvEQXe0yI/AAAAAAAADdE/dyKeP1uh-2Q/s1600/Nat+link+004.jpg)
Natalie setting off on pitch 4 of The Prozac Link, E4, Screaming Geo.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xh6pXI2PsgM/U3Cu60SB0CI/AAAAAAAADcs/1J-5xNUMvAs/s1600/Nat+link+001.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xh6pXI2PsgM/U3Cu60SB0CI/AAAAAAAADcs/1J-5xNUMvAs/s1600/Nat+link+001.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zilZU8lF2_c/U3C1oificnI/AAAAAAAADd4/Dzf6MReWmL0/s1600/prozactoppitch.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zilZU8lF2_c/U3C1oificnI/AAAAAAAADd4/Dzf6MReWmL0/s1600/prozactoppitch.jpg)
View from the Hot Aches Productions camera of Natalie leading the Prozac Link, E4.
The next day we returned to Ard Feinis with the E7 wall in our sights. It was damp and already raining. But I was totally psyched to do it if at all possible. Natalie linked it on the top rope with ease but still opted to pass me the lead until she had more experience placing the few crucial small cams that only just protect it.
The rain got heavier and heavier, so there wasn’t time to lose. I kept my chalkbag dry by tucking under my top until I was under the crux roof before flinging it off, drying my hands and feet and launching up the wall. Apart from a few seconds off faff drying my hands after fiddling with rainsoaked cams, I enjoyed every second of the wall, especially grabbing the monster bucket wet jug at the top and throwing on my pre-stashed Gore-Tex (http://www.gore-tex.co.uk/remote/Satellite/home) jacket. A first E7 since coming back from surgery and a good milestone in regaining my confidence. Nat seconded into a faceful of drips from the top of the wall, and we scurried back to the car to thaw out, happy.I don’t know whether it’s because I’ve had a nice rest this week with lots of sleep after all those 16 hour building days at home, because I’ve been back to climbing, or because I’ve been climbing in inspiring surroundings all week, but I feel a burst of energy right now. I’ll have to use it for something good.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lQqOqN42gUU/U3C1k_YEBCI/AAAAAAAADdk/VBt8iLAuv2E/s1600/flannans.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lQqOqN42gUU/U3C1k_YEBCI/AAAAAAAADdk/VBt8iLAuv2E/s1600/flannans.jpg)
Looking across to the Flannan isles from Screaming Geo, Lewis. Photo: Hot Aches Productions (http://hotaches.com/)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/2rqzNeIbiFo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The last photo of the E4 is brilliant, need to be there
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Get there. It's brilliant. Take trad gear, boulder pad, MTB, fishing gear, surfing kit and loads of camera batteries. And wellies and a raincoat!
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I went there years ago having spent a week at Strone Ulladale and it looked a bit small and uninspiring! It looks great in those photos though and I was probably being snobby :-[ A great trip would be to Strone, Creag Dubh Dibadale (we walked in and it rained) and Uig.
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Our consensus was that if the Screaming Geo was at Gogarth it'd be the best bit, and by some margin. Can't imagine how you'd think it uninspiring (we'd been at Strone too), unless you misperceived the scale. The rock is better than Strone too. And there's a bothy built into the crag. And no midges. And a short walk to a beach. I could go on.
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Can't imagine how you'd think it uninspiring (we'd been at Strone too), unless you misperceived the scale. .
Probably. I do have an 'issue' with spatial awareness ;)
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Screaming Geo is just as good as it looks I thought, Prozac Link is fantastic. Worth the trip. I haven't been to Strone yet so can't make the comparison, but its not like for like anyway I suppose. Tom, Creag Dubh Dibadale is great, shame it rained. Probably the least developed crag I've seen in the UK relative to potential. Overall a fantastic area, get it sorted Guy. Really good to see Dave Mac keeping the fire burning after his ankle injury.
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Foot training (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/0TLeTUMtCcE/foot-training.html)
13 May 2014, 10:02 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLRMFXs8pl8/U3KVc2jQT2I/AAAAAAAADe8/hx9z7nwtn2Q/s1600/RomancingstoneE5.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PLRMFXs8pl8/U3KVc2jQT2I/AAAAAAAADe8/hx9z7nwtn2Q/s1600/RomancingstoneE5.jpg)
Climbing Romancing The Stone E5 6a today at Wave Buttress, Glen Nevis. Photo: Steve Holmes (http://verticalfever.co.uk/)
May is often a month of sore feet for me. After a winter of climbing short and very steep things, when I start trad climbing my weak and unfit feet get kind of sore. I remember having this problem particularly badly a few years ago on my first visit to Cloggy one june after a month of climbing upside down in the Anvil.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7a1OeNQk6K0/U3KOFuBRgXI/AAAAAAAADeE/C33iyJY4v50/s1600/may14+001.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7a1OeNQk6K0/U3KOFuBRgXI/AAAAAAAADeE/C33iyJY4v50/s1600/may14+001.jpg)
Kev Shields making good progress on his project.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZdjrFyOcta8/U3KOG0VhzdI/AAAAAAAADeQ/5ZSqN0mZeE0/s1600/may14+003.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZdjrFyOcta8/U3KOG0VhzdI/AAAAAAAADeQ/5ZSqN0mZeE0/s1600/may14+003.jpg)
So today I joined Kev, Steve, Joe, Dot and Ewan at Wave Buttress for some slabby wall climbing and toe endurance training. Kev has been working away on a project up there which will be a nice E7 6c. He toproped it with apparent ease today and was looking strong on it. I had some laps on it too and enjoyed myself in the May sunshine. It has a very thin thumb press move with just enough gear to entice you on, followed by a sustained E6 6a to the top.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hF2eN9pAe1w/U3KOGzxBe_I/AAAAAAAADeM/glnV1PsDB3Y/s1600/may14+002.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hF2eN9pAe1w/U3KOGzxBe_I/AAAAAAAADeM/glnV1PsDB3Y/s1600/may14+002.jpg)
Joe and his shadow leading Edgehog E3 6a.
Afterwards I went round and did Romancing The Stone E5 6a with Joe. It was a little dirty in places and I took my wire brush with me to clean the odd hold as I went. As predicted, my feet felt worked. I enjoyed the route finding, although another decent runner on the lower part would’ve been nice. The other guys were giving On The Beach (E5) some traffic.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c7D5583vX1g/U3KOLWO4bII/AAAAAAAADec/7a1J-I2c8ms/s1600/may14+004.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c7D5583vX1g/U3KOLWO4bII/AAAAAAAADec/7a1J-I2c8ms/s1600/may14+004.jpg)
Natalie on a thin groove problem on Harris on our pre-ferry boulder session the other day.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RUr02vU8CLo/U3KONxpia0I/AAAAAAAADeo/2auru9ZnW1Y/s1600/may14+005.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RUr02vU8CLo/U3KONxpia0I/AAAAAAAADeo/2auru9ZnW1Y/s1600/may14+005.jpg)
It was a little hot for crimping this hard. That's my excuse anyway.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/0TLeTUMtCcE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Supercrag (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/6wAghZUmm4w/the-supercrag.html)
2 June 2014, 11:23 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jQwMrldH4-k/U4xWD5xWrdI/AAAAAAAADfY/NjUDtrLIFAE/s1600/locations+001.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jQwMrldH4-k/U4xWD5xWrdI/AAAAAAAADfY/NjUDtrLIFAE/s1600/locations+001.jpg)
View from the walk in to Creag Rodha Mor
The past couple of weeks have been filled with a couple of exciting film jobs, one involving taking some air time. More on that later. I had a weekend booked in with Steve to head to a good sounding Gneiss crag near Lochinver in the north west called Creag Rodha Mor, or more commonly known as the supercrag.
It’s the sort of terrain you’d normally have to travel to the islands for; big steep pitches on positive holds and generally good gear. On our first day we sped up from Roy Bridge, abbed in by 2pm and got cracking on ‘My own personal Mingulay’ (E4 5c, 5c). The morning dampness was still hanging about the crag a little, but with such huge holds and sinker gear, it didn’t matter. Steve was going well despite little opportunity to get out climbing for some time. I wouldn’t say I was going well, but at least I was going up.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M3q5r0PPXpA/U4xWBm6vj3I/AAAAAAAADfM/XcgN8TAiAw0/s1600/locations+002.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M3q5r0PPXpA/U4xWBm6vj3I/AAAAAAAADfM/XcgN8TAiAw0/s1600/locations+002.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-st4LtJCgnDc/U4xWD8j2GGI/AAAAAAAADfU/usYsABgZZBw/s1600/locations+003.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-st4LtJCgnDc/U4xWD8j2GGI/AAAAAAAADfU/usYsABgZZBw/s1600/locations+003.jpg)
Steve on pitch 2 of My Own Personal Mingulay (E4 5c).
Once the blazing sun hit the wall, it went from damp to roasting and greasy, so I bumbled up Ruddy Glow Corner (E4 6b) feeling a little hot. We rounded the evening off with The Shiner (E5 6a) and Rhubarb Champagne (E2) and wandered off to meet Stuart and Erick who were joining us.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uaipXJgV5c8/U4xWG4oPrjI/AAAAAAAADfk/hTLhOiWh4Pw/s1600/locations+004.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uaipXJgV5c8/U4xWG4oPrjI/AAAAAAAADfk/hTLhOiWh4Pw/s1600/locations+004.jpg)
Me eyeing up the crux of Ruddy Glow Corner (E4 6b)
Next day, I kicked off with Read My Lips (E4 6a), again feeling a little unacclimatised to the blazing summer sun. Steve had a whale of a time on the big pitch of Ramp it Up (E3 5c) - a mega line on huge bucket jugs all the way. Afterwards, I got a chance to get on The Cuilinan (E6 6b), which again proved to be a mega trip up the wall. At first the holds were fantastic and the gear bomber. Then after a good tricky section I arrived at a wee footledge where I could cool down a bit. I slipped my boots off for a moment as my feet were cooking, arranged a spiders web of gear and proceeded waste a lot of energy trying to climb the wrong way up the headwall above. After repositioning a metre or so to the right, things went rather better and I even persuaded the in situ fulmar on the belay ledge to fly off straight away using a well crafted grunt. I think I have the knack now.
Sadly, Sunday dawned wet so we opted for active rest cruising about on some 6s and 7s at the lovely Moy sport crag. Summer is definitely here.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ML3xHCNvZR0/U4xWI709IuI/AAAAAAAADfs/blg5PWQzAk4/s1600/locations+005.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ML3xHCNvZR0/U4xWI709IuI/AAAAAAAADfs/blg5PWQzAk4/s1600/locations+005.jpg)
Steve in a sea of jugs on Ramp it up (E3 5c)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNpPSB4sWbI/U4xWKV9gO3I/AAAAAAAADf0/r3KSZKJSuG4/s1600/locations+006.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DNpPSB4sWbI/U4xWKV9gO3I/AAAAAAAADf0/r3KSZKJSuG4/s1600/locations+006.jpg)
Locals around Creag Rodha Mor.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/6wAghZUmm4w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Daddy jump! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Amadi8kemhE/daddy-jump.html)
12 June 2014, 6:05 pm
Freida like to tire me out at the swings.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Amadi8kemhE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The message and the story (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SwTIDvD_pvY/the-message-and-story.html)
12 June 2014, 7:29 pm
I mentioned before I’d been doing some filming in front of camera. I was on the sea cliffs of Lewis and some footage of me throwing myself off Screaming Geo is now in a Land Rover ad which reached the TV screens of the UK last night. You can see it above.
I was aware I needed a bit of falling practice after the last proper trad fall I had ended in surgery. There is a short film about one of the other guys in the ad called Mike Goody (the blade runner) below, which is a really nice and honest film. Worth watching. It’s amazing how feeling a bit powerless can really creep in and affect you after an accident or injury. I must admit I’ve let that happen quite a lot at times over the past year and been in need of a bit of support (understatement) from friends to help me get through.
It’s not as black and white as just finding the will to be positive, as some sources of advice would suggest. You have to have something to be positive about. I.e. there has to be a plan, and knowing what that should be can be next to impossible when you are very injured. I reckon most folk can deal with adversity pretty well, and many can even take it in their stride. It’s the uncertainty that really hauls you over the coals. You aren’t sure if you are still going to be able to be the person you are and want to be any more.
Even the old Churchill saying about 'when you're going through hell, keep going' is a bit simplistic. Sometimes you just don't know where to go to leave your present predicament. I've definitely learned over the past year or two that good help and advice are critical. Without it you are vulnerable. Good friends and very very good doctors who share, or at the very least, truly understand your goals, are precious.
In the ad, everyone was saying 'I can'. It's true that 'I can' is the message it boils down to. But the wider story is 'with your help, I can'.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SwTIDvD_pvY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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One project done. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/6gpmONr34mY/one-project-done.html)
12 June 2014, 9:48 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFxNIX7tBaw/U5nsRI7zsQI/AAAAAAAADgY/0rqnU6QXYuk/s1600/MacLeod+wall+010.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rFxNIX7tBaw/U5nsRI7zsQI/AAAAAAAADgY/0rqnU6QXYuk/s1600/MacLeod+wall+010.jpg)
The MacLeod wall. Done. Let's get climbing!
The past few weeks have been varied; film work in front of camera, behind camera, voiceovers in studios, training for summer in the alps, researching for my injuries book and finishing getting all the holds on my wall.
It sounds a bit stupid, but I underestimated how long it would take to actually get all my holds on the wall. And I was grateful to be gifted lots more from friends. Being the slightly maladjusted character I am, I was anxious to finish the project completely before starting to climb on it. I just didn’t want to be climbing on it when it still felt like a building project. So it was really nice to get it all perfect and then start to climb. The only pieces of the puzzle left are the mats which are being made right now. It feels just great to be training. It’s just over a year since I dismantled my wall in my old house, and it’s only after starting to climb on the new one that I’ve truly realised how much I’ve missed it.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qcan5Y1zIJg/U5nsR5tRJaI/AAAAAAAADgc/UIp-YIwUrSY/s1600/MacLeod+wall+011.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qcan5Y1zIJg/U5nsR5tRJaI/AAAAAAAADgc/UIp-YIwUrSY/s1600/MacLeod+wall+011.jpg)
Ahhhh. I do like to see projects, of all kinds, complete. Now, what shall I do now? Oh yeah, I was writing a book on injuries wasn’t I...
Between days of setting, training, and book work, we have been making a film for a Glasgow based Geology company called Midland Valley (http://www.mve.com/). They make software for structural analysis of geology and have produced a smartphone app for digital mapping in the field. We had a nice couple of days running around the north face of the Ben shooting with them and me abbing down cliffs and getting my phone out instead of doing what I normally do!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJzQhC7BbZY/U5nw9_DF3zI/AAAAAAAADg8/6nldg3s73VU/s1600/IMG_0349.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJzQhC7BbZY/U5nw9_DF3zI/AAAAAAAADg8/6nldg3s73VU/s1600/IMG_0349.JPG)
Readying the crane above the CIC hut. Photo: Jenny Ellis
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dj3bETLNbvU/U5nsb26m3II/AAAAAAAADgo/SlaeXmd5kJ8/s1600/app+on+rope.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dj3bETLNbvU/U5nsb26m3II/AAAAAAAADgo/SlaeXmd5kJ8/s1600/app+on+rope.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XVgSiDvTVkA/U5nseMpa19I/AAAAAAAADgw/2Qf1MA-ySZw/s1600/app+on+rope1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XVgSiDvTVkA/U5nseMpa19I/AAAAAAAADgw/2Qf1MA-ySZw/s1600/app+on+rope1.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1DybD4ZSJI/U5nw-9wP88I/AAAAAAAADhE/H0qAF9NYZfY/s1600/P5260026.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J1DybD4ZSJI/U5nw-9wP88I/AAAAAAAADhE/H0qAF9NYZfY/s1600/P5260026.JPG)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/6gpmONr34mY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Come climbing for a day in the Dolomites (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Xa5CLqWaxwA/come-climbing-for-day-in-dolomites.html)
13 June 2014, 10:26 am
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UG8AM3l5Nvk/U5rPmOTIJcI/AAAAAAAADhU/p8DLKc9pCvk/s1600/ATT00246.gif) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UG8AM3l5Nvk/U5rPmOTIJcI/AAAAAAAADhU/p8DLKc9pCvk/s1600/ATT00246.gif)On October 19th I am at the International Mountain Summit (http://www.ims.bz/)in Bressasone/Brixen in the Dolomites. Gore-Tex are running a competition as part of their long running experience tour for myself and David Lama to take some of you guys climbing for the day on Oct 19th. Gore-Tex are paying the expenses to get to the Dolomites too!
If you like the sound of that, all you have to do is enter the competition here (http://www.experience-tour.com/tour/climbing-ims-2014/applicants/) with a few clicks and a note about why you would like to come climbing with us, and then get yourself some votes on Facebook. See you in the Dolomites then...Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Xa5CLqWaxwA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Wicked (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/v7OcwZMBWms/the-wicked.html)
20 June 2014, 6:11 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a-Ke2F5CWSI/U6RwAuPiQaI/AAAAAAAADiI/Hm5_CZlHsA0/s1600/wicked+4-4818.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-a-Ke2F5CWSI/U6RwAuPiQaI/AAAAAAAADiI/Hm5_CZlHsA0/s1600/wicked+4-4818.jpg)
Leading pitch 3 of The Wicked, E6 5b, 6b, 6b, 6b, 6b, Ben Nevis. Photo: Dave Cuthbertson/Cubby Images. (https://www.facebook.com/pages/Cubby-Images/181356675383219)
In 2000 and 2001, Gary Latter and Rick Campbell worked on a major new line on Carn Dearg Buttress of Ben Nevis. It took the obvious challenge of stepped grossly overhanging wall pitches, followed by the attractive wall left of the Bat corner pitch high on the buttress. At the time it was by far the hardest rock climb on Ben Nevis, before much harder routes such as Anubis and then Echo Wall were put up in the years following.
They approached the climb ground up, cleaning the route on aid and then redpointing the pitches. However, they did not climb it in a single push, but rather climbed various pitches on different days (and years) by accessing them from the easier routes, eventually grading the route E6 and calling it The Wicked.
This left the obvious challenge of a first continuous ascent. It was a great challenge too, as the climb has four consecutive hard pitches. I had stood at the foot of it once before with Niall McNair several years ago, but it was wet. In fact, frequent wetness on the first two pitches seems to have helped maintain its unrepeated status for all this time. As far as I know noone else has climbed it.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0EdirEaXogM/U6RvqA8_CVI/AAAAAAAADh4/PjPKaObwsfg/s1600/wicked+007.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0EdirEaXogM/U6RvqA8_CVI/AAAAAAAADh4/PjPKaObwsfg/s1600/wicked+007.jpg)
I went up to the buttress with Donald King the other day with no particular plan. Since a period of fine weather had not long started, I expected to find The Wicked wet and we might go for the other mega E6 on the buttress, Trajan’s Column. But on arrival, the wet streaks didn’t look too bad, so we decided to go up for a look. Donald studiously avoided a few wet holds on the first pitch which was ok. But on closer acquaintance, the slab leading up to the first hard pitch looked pretty wet, and the start of the crux itself even worse.
I went up, expecting to quickly come back. At the overhangs, the holds above looked quite big so I wondered if I could just climb on through the wetness. I knew it would end up in a scrap, but who cares? It’s training. And, who likes starting up a route and not finishing it, ready excuses or not?
I picked my way through the wet and sharp jugs in the roof and eventually managed to grab a flat jug over the lip. Looking down, there were no dry options for feet whatsoever. Hanging with my feet off, I felt under pressure to make a decision so opted for an overhead toe-hook behind a loose looking flake. This worked nicely to get a runner in and dry wet hands. But with one hand in my chalk bag, the block suddenly flew out, sending me swinging wildly with one point of contact. Instinct kept me on and there was no option but to go up, quickly. Below, Donald tried hard not to laugh. The holds beyond were manky, covered in thick lichen and the odd bit of wet moss. I pressed on trying to clean as I went, but totally pumped, I slid off onto the rope at the last move.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3abE1uMKtF0/U6RvuqPIQZI/AAAAAAAADiA/r5rQxQqy6sg/s1600/wicked+010.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3abE1uMKtF0/U6RvuqPIQZI/AAAAAAAADiA/r5rQxQqy6sg/s1600/wicked+010.jpg)
Eyeing up the final pitch of the lovely wall left of the Bat corner.
Why on earth didn’t I put the brush in my bag? A quick clean by rubbing the slopers with my hands sort of worked, and on the next attempt the pitch went down no problem. The next pitch was almost as bad, cleaning thick lichen off most of the holds while pumped, but at least I got up it onsight. The next was even worse and I slid out of licheny jams twice before giving it a good rub with my T-shirt and getting it done next go. The final 6b pitch up the lovely Bat corner wall looked immense. It looked a little less dirty too and I was determined to clean it on lead without resting on the rope. However, as I reached for the crucial crux crimp, my finger tips sank into a fluffy pile of moss which was saturated with water. Damn! Even that one needed a quick garden before releading it from the start.
All in all we got quite a workout. But we got to the top!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N9simijh3Ec/U6Rvpn6yNFI/AAAAAAAADhs/PYw8wHVC68g/s1600/wicked+009.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N9simijh3Ec/U6Rvpn6yNFI/AAAAAAAADhs/PYw8wHVC68g/s1600/wicked+009.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xwEVhKjBSxw/U6RvpD9E3xI/AAAAAAAADho/lKS-KuZSABk/s1600/wicked+008.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xwEVhKjBSxw/U6RvpD9E3xI/AAAAAAAADho/lKS-KuZSABk/s1600/wicked+008.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/v7OcwZMBWms)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Going round Ruthven (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/m7eYlHeTaag/going-round-ruthven.html)
24 June 2014, 12:16 am
Last autumn I extended Blair’s traverse of the Ruthven boulder, making a mega 40 metre F8b. But the challenge remained not to go up at the crux to the good line of holds, but to take on the full challenge of the tiny crimps and slopers below. I tried it for a few sessions last October, and two days before my ankle surgery, I got reasonably close to it. It was looking like an F8c or Font 8a+ standard piece of climbing.
I intended to go back this spring, but I built a climbing wall instead. So I just got round to it last weekend with Alicia, reworking the sequence and having a quick burn. I didn’t quite have the flow required to stay nice and fresh for the crux after 30m of F8b climbing.
But after another focused visit of getting it wired and having good training burns, the other night I managed to do it. You can see the video below - It’s a great trip with an intense crux after a lot of climbing.
It was a little bittersweet leaving the boulder after the successful redpoint, knowing I have no projects here to come back for. I have done all of the problems here now and really enjoyed the location for it’s tranquility. Even the drive through the hills east of Loch Ness is very relaxing, especially on a Sunday listening to Crunluath on the radio after lunch at the caf. It’s also a handy place to dodge the Lochaber monsoon, and the midges.
Thankfully, the world is full of rocks to climb on. Pastures new!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/m7eYlHeTaag)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Cu Sith video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wsg4Qbw52Qg/cu-sith-video.html)
24 June 2014, 11:43 am
Kev came round to my place so I could help him capture the footage from his tape of his recent new E7 at Wave Buttress, Cù Sìth (pronounced Ku Shee, it’s Gaelic). I ended up cutting it into a wee clip which you can see below. Well done to Dot for filming with one hand and taking pictures with the other!
As you can see from the film, the climb has a lot of personal meaning for Kev. You can’t help but feel cheered by his obvious genuine ecstasy on topping out. It’s quite a big moment to realise you can still make good things happen after so much trouble with injury, and several years regaining fitness and confidence. Apart from that, simply completing a hard and dangerous route you’ve put a lot of work into is a fantastic and highly addictive feeling.
If you’ve never tried projecting something really hard, this is a great advert for it. It has to be properly hard though - if you know it will go, eventually, it probably isn’t hard enough to take you on a real adventure of doubt. This film is about a guy with one hand and a fused ankle taking on an E7 first ascent. What would you have to take on to give an equivalent challenge? That would be quite something!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wsg4Qbw52Qg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New E7 at Wave Buttress (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hU66CagHxxc/new-e7-at-wave-buttress.html)
24 June 2014, 1:03 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BhZsAtD2pRE/U6l2hg2R-MI/AAAAAAAADic/LsLI_p1qlzk/s1600/waveE7.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BhZsAtD2pRE/U6l2hg2R-MI/AAAAAAAADic/LsLI_p1qlzk/s1600/waveE7.jpg)
Starting up what was to become Final Wave E7/8 6b. Photos: Dorota Bankowska
Yesterday, after a rather damp day, a good dry breeze picked up. So I called Kev and half an hour later we were walking in to Wave Buttress. I had my pick of either trying to repeat his E7 Cu Sith, or trying a new one that I’d cleaned last time I was there.
With the breeze strongest on the new route, I chose that and finished cleaning it. I’d forgotten to bring a top with me and I actually got rather chilled as I cleaned the route in a good strong wind. Once I lowered down for a think about leading it, I started a comedy wobbly shivering fit. Right then, two of the world’s best trad mixed climbers, Guy Robertson and Greg Boswell came past. I tried not to look freezing cold on a June evening.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bcOpXzpvdk4/U6l2hapzJOI/AAAAAAAADiY/ECrICIJtLNI/s1600/waveE7-2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bcOpXzpvdk4/U6l2hapzJOI/AAAAAAAADiY/ECrICIJtLNI/s1600/waveE7-2.jpg)
The route started up a gnarly old E5 called Frantic Across the Atlantic, put up in 1987 by Mark McGowan. Mark is a pretty bold trad climber and even with the in-situ nut and peg (long since fallen out), the route is a full value old school E5. Near the top of the big slab it runs into a vertical arrier headwall and escapes left into the famous Crackattack (E3), leaving the obvious finish direct through the headwall unclimbed. I could see why. Where the peg was, there is now a collection of appauling gear I probably wouldn’t even lower off on, followed by a very thin, teetery move right that would be very easy to fall from. I wouldn’t like to think what would happen.
I knew I could do it if I was feeling confident. So my strategy was just to climb up the E5 part and see if everything was good inside my mind on arrival at the headwall and make a decision from there. At the last gear, I sort of laughed to myself. I didn’t feel any less apprehensive about committing to the crux. So the usual process took over - I just don’t like passing the opportunity to get the climb climbed. So without saying anything, I just swallowed hard and did it. What else can you do?Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/hU66CagHxxc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bit of a bottleneck (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/pDs0j25ZRD4/bit-of-bottleneck.html)
4 September 2014, 6:06 pm
Bit of a bottleneck
“People ask me if I’m busy, I tell them, ‘I’m so busy I had two heart attacks’. They congratulate me on this achievement.”
Ruby Wax
Over the last ten years or so I have been fantastically lucky to have one great opportunity after another. Sometimes, they’ve come all at once and I’m ashamed to admit, I’ve made a real mess of dealing with that. I’ve been awful at choosing between good things, like a toddler in a toy shop. My general approach has just been to try and have it all. Understandable I hope, but still stupid.
I’m even more ashamed to admit that going at full pelt with no off button for so long has, at times, made me unhappy, although I mostly didn’t realise it. This is because life is not black and white. I love virtually all of the activities I do in my life. In fact I can’t get enough of them. So on one hand I’ve had numerous influences helping me to enjoy and make the most of life. However, two things have pulled in the other direction - injury, and over-working myself.
From day to day, doses of things such as training sessions are such a pleasure and a boost, and are enough to counter the negative effects of another night working until 2am. In the short term at least. But sooner or later, the cost of this is evident. And I’ve realised that sometimes this way of working has starved the golden goose. I ought to know better.
I could go into more detail on the problems I’ve created for myself, but they are not unusual to me, so there isn’t any need. The question is what am I going to do about it?
Just because you wake up and see the problem doesn’t make it go away. I don’t write to do lists on paper any more but they are still there in my head and I still want to do them. My first plan is to stop beating myself up about failure to achieve unachievable goals, or goals only achievable at huge costs elsewhere. I have proven to myself that I have the dubious ability to work myself to death for years on end. Sure this approach gets projects sent tomorrow. But I have also proved, as so many others do in the western world, that it soon kills you.
I’m determined to make a better job of focusing on the priorities, saying no, or later to the rest, and deciding not to beat myself up for not managing everything.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/pDs0j25ZRD4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lots of films (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rSrpn0m7Vho/lots-of-films.html)
4 September 2014, 6:24 pm
This summer I have been involved in many films, both in front, and behind the camera. Here is the first of them. Land Rover made this little film about me which I guess focuses on how the decision not to leave any unspent effort on the table tends to help you go home with the route in the bag. It’s a difficult concept to explain in simple soundbites. But ultimately, you need to be in a place where desire to complete the climb simply overwhelms fear of failure, falling, and any other excuses to miss your opportunities.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rSrpn0m7Vho)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Scotland - what to decide? A starting place in the decision making process (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/kbqXeKVT86c/scotland-what-to-decide-starting-place.html)
4 September 2014, 6:44 pm
Although this blog is primarily about my thoughts on climbing, I’m aware that the huge decision on Scottish independence is getting close, and I need to think about whether to keep my thoughts to myself, or share them with others. It doesn’t seem to make sense for interested parties to make their decision in a bubble of isolation. Why not discuss it openly? Moreover, why not make clear where the gaps in the arguments aired in the media lie, so that we may have more of the information we need to come to the best possible decision.
Unlike the way the decision is presented by politicians, I don’t feel that anyone can truly come to the right or wrong decision, where right or wrong implies prosperity of the country in the future. Either path carries considerable uncertainty. In my mind, the right decision is the one that people are happy to have made, given the information and feelings we have at the time. Even if it did turn out to make us a tiny bit worse off in the pocket, that won’t make it the wrong decision because either path could have led to that outcome.
Because of these uncertainties, I was undecided for a long time, but as I’ve thought it over repeatedly, I have now decided that a Yes vote is definitely the choice I wish to make. Part of the reason it took me a long time to reach a firm conclusion was the the disappointing level of coverage of the issue in the mass media. In the political field, each side is obliged to try to strengthen it’s case. Realistically, what else could we expect? I hoped to hear more from respected intellectuals who were prepared to offer their thoughts. Thankfully, these have appeared on the internet over the past few months.
If ever there was an issue that is not black and white, it is this. Here are some questions and ideas that have come to my mind to guide me through this decision, which I am so happy to have made. It’s the first time in my life where I’ve been truly excited to receive my ballot paper through the letterbox.
These ideas span several different concepts and issues, and all of them seem relevant to me. I hope they are at least interesting to some of you who may be going through the same difficult process.
Part 1: Power
They say that the one lesson from history is that no one learns anything from history. However, right now we have a future in front of us of being able to make decisions for ourselves. I cannot find a good reason to take a huge gamble in handing this power over to a distant government. The idea that power is never given, only taken comes to mind here. Although I do think there are some major problems with politicians, political system, and the way the media handle it in the UK, on the whole I do think that many politicians are trying to do good work under difficult constraints. However, I have a basic worry that the distance breeds complacency. I am unsure about others worries that Scotland may lose influence internationally. If we replace the ability to interfere in the middle east with a focus on the advancement of education of our own people, we will end up being able to exert global influence in much more effective ways (such as in solving many of the problems that cause wars in the first place).
I just mentioned that I felt Westminster politicians are generally speaking trying to do good work. The British political system is a somewhat archaic arrangement, which creates some undesirable consequences and sometimes appears to reward the wrong behaviour among politicians. There have been repeated opportunities to change it, but these haven’t been taken. I fear that this will simply continue if we vote to hand our power over to a government in London.
Peoples across the ages right up to the present day have given their lives in a struggle to take their power back from distant government. All those people didn’t fight for nothing. In general, it’s because distant government just doesn’t act in their best interests. It is interested in the resources of the territory, rather than taking care of the people living on it. It’s almost unbelievable that we are being given the opportunity to take the decision without a single bullet fired.
So why are the polls predicting that we will vote to reject home rule? Surely, it must be down to psychology?
Part 2: Psychology
Consider the scenario that we were voting for or against a union with a government in London if we had been an independent country for the past 300 years. Do you think we would vote for it? Surely, the very idea would be laughed at. Therefore, the psychology of the status quo must play a huge part in our decision making.
The current government is in severe danger from UKIP simply because of the very modest effects of European influence on our government. There is an irony that that they argue that the UK union should stay together. I also wonder how the English would vote in a referendum to move the seat of government to Belfast, Cardiff or Edinburgh.
Is the future status quo not an illusion? Obviously, it’s a leap of faith to vote for setting up a new government (not a country - we are already a country!). But surely it’s also obvious that it’s a huge leap of faith to enter a union with a country which has some frightening looming problems. I’m thinking here about us leaving Europe, spending vast quantities of money and lives on wars that don’t seem to have helped, killing off the NHS, failing to properly address the many issues that contribute to wellbeing of the population.
The status quo in our country is that the leading cause of death among male adults between 21-50 is suicide. I can’t see any reason to vote for a status quo where our children are more likely to wish to end their own lives in their prime than in years gone by. The status quo is not making us happy. I don’t feel that there is much to lose by letting go of risk aversion and voting to take another path.
Part 3: Wealth
Despite the fact that our current wealth (in a world perspective) has not made us happy, the data shows that the short term effects on our financial situation are most likely to swing voters decisions. There are two critical points about this.
Firstly, the predictions about whether we may be slightly better or slightly worse off are totally unreliable. On both sides, they are assumptions, based on assumptions. Economists are famous for being unable to agree on anything. And recent history certainly underlines the lack of ability to predict avoidable economic disasters. To vote based on predicted numbers truly is to take a gamble.
Secondly, what is wealth? The most exciting piece of discussion I’ve heard in the mass media relating to the independence debate was back in May and wasn’t even being discussed in the context of independence. It’s well known that above a basic level, more money doesn’t mean more happiness and wellbeing. I’m simplifying and recommend some good reading that explores the complex picture. The media constantly encourages us to worry about GDP, despite the ever greater understanding that it doesn’t relate to quality of life. Back in 1968 Bobby Kennedy said GDP “measures everything except that which makes life worthwhile”. Although it doesn’t make such an easy headline for mass media, the social progress index (http://www.socialprogressimperative.org/data/spi#data_table/countries/spi/dim1,dim2,dim3) has over recent years shed much more light on what is important. It puts GDP in it’s place as one among many factors we should be concerned about. The findings, and the league table of countries makes interesting reading. Note that the UK is a lot lower on the list than some other countries that have much in common with Scotland.
I’m not saying money isn’t important. But since the numbers war averages out at a few hundred quid either side of the recent past and it’s clear that this sort of difference has only limited effects on wellbeing (that may well be countered in other ways), it doesn’t seem right to take the gamble along these lines. Moreover, an Independent Scotland, even in tough times is likely to be more left leaning than the current government and pay closer attention to those with least opportunity. For these reasons, surely the best lines across which to thrash out a decision are cultural.
Part 4: Culture
Niall Ferguson (a conservative) described in 2012’s (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/DvZX2l78SrbXltcxJkD39H/niall-ferguson-the-human-hive) BBC Reith* lectures why countries prosper first and foremost from their institutions rather than simply their industries. He was referring to legal and educational institutions. In both of these fields, Scotland has institutions which are looked up to around the world. He also pointed out that the accumulation of national debt is now undermining democracy since successive generations inherit the debt without having voted to accumulate it. Whether you choose to love or hate the SNP, they have been clear about their intention and proposed methods to reverse the current direction of the UK of accumulating vast quantities of debt. Although our current austerity programme is reducing our national deficit, the debt is still rising.
Very few Scots seriously question whether we ‘could’ be independent. I would urge the few that do to have more confidence! So to decide whether we should, surely we should think about what would give us a greater sense of being part of a community, greater sense of purpose and a feeling that our voice as individuals or may be heard.
This aspect has been my strongest lever towards voting yes. We are already a country, in all but government. Completing that missing piece by deciding to govern ourselves would allow us to shape our circumstances to better reflect our needs. Sure, we have absorbed so much of culture from the rest of the UK and the rest of the world. There is a McDonalds in every town. We eat full Scottish breakfasts, which are basically full English breakfasts plus Irn Bru. Etc. But it seems pretty clear to me that we are different from the rest of the UK. Suitably different to benefit from having a sovereign government. That was also the view of the UK's outgoing permanent representative to NATO (http://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-scotland-politics-29045528), expressed while she was pointing out that NATO would have no reason to interrupt Scotland's membership.
Where England is one of the most densely populated countries in Europe, Scotland is one of the least. Rather than worrying about the influx of foreign talent, we realise that we need it. Where England repeatedly votes for a Tory government with a far right chaser, we have always leaned a little more to the left.
I just don’t feel the government represents us. In fact, I don’t think we are even on their radar. The independence referendum neatly illustrates this. So many in England are barely even aware that the UK is a few points away from breaking up.
It ought to go without saying that I have no axe to grind against the UK. None whatsoever. I feel that the situation we are in is just human nature. We are a tiny part of the UK, population wise, with quite different needs and ideals. And so it has come about that we have been given the chance to represent ourselves, but remain connected in the wider European Union. At a very basic level, it makes sense. I still want to do business with, travel to and consume culture from the rest of the UK, just as I do from the the rest of Europe which I regularly spend time in and have friends in.
I do feel that taking the step to independence will do Scotland a massive amount of good. If there is one piece of Scottish culture that I feel still exists and is not our best asset, it’s lack of confidence. I think that it will make it more focused, more flexible, and especially more confident.
So I’m voting Yes.
*Footnote: John Reith (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Reith,_1st_Baron_Reith), of Stonehaven, developed the concept of public service broadcasting for the education of the people and created the modern BBC as its first director general. I doubt he would have any confidence issues with the idea of establishing a Scottish broadcasting service. He admitted that he felt he had the skills to “manage any company”. He put his money where his mouth was.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/kbqXeKVT86c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good post, some very interesting points.
A minor quibble, 'So many in England are barely even aware that the UK is a few points away from breaking up.'
I'm not sure about this: that fact we aren't voting dictates that our 'awareness' is irrelevant.
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Geological mapping, on your iPhone (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/kVW-Rwtbni4/geological-mapping-on-your-iphone.html)
5 September 2014, 7:15 pm
Here is the second film we were involved with this summer. Glasgow based geological mapping company Midland Valley asked us to shoot and produce a film on Ben Nevis detailing the new app (http://www.mve.com/software/fieldmoveclino) they have released for geologists to do digital field mapping. We had a great time on the north face of the Ben and learned a lot from the guys.
FieldMove Clino - Digital Field Mapping (http://vimeo.com/99742565) from Midland Valley (http://vimeo.com/midlandvalley) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/kVW-Rwtbni4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Now that is a courageous statement (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZmoyE7Au9oY/now-that-is-courageous-statement.html)
17 September 2014, 10:48 pm
My friend Craig posted this up tonight. I think it‘s brilliant that he had the courage to stand in front of a camera and put his thoughts across so honestly and directly. Well done to him and everyone else who has done similar, no matter how they feel about the decision Scotland makes tomorrow.
Not only do I agree with what Craig says, and the way he looks at the whole argument, but I really felt happy to watch it - that we have people around willing to stand up and put such a clear case for something as uncool as politics. Perhaps it's partly because I know Craig from School and so the conviction of his delivery underlines how smart but weird teenagers can turn into really smart adults. He looked even sillier than me with long hair, but was pretty damn handy at playing Metallica guitar solos. I last bumped into him on his way to a MENSA meeting in Glasgow.
Tomorrow is an opportunity to do something amazing, not just for us, but for the whole world actually. To make a really huge step to change ourselves. And to do it without going to war, which will be a great example for the world. I'll jump for joy if we have the courage to go ahead and do it.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZmoyE7Au9oY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A Scottish route on Cima Ovest! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/M9_BugmWdVY/a-scottish-route-on-cima-ovest.html)
18 September 2014, 2:21 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dEwTtokIBA4/VBroKCereoI/AAAAAAAADow/rlUgnzfJG3E/s1600/5Z6A6120.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dEwTtokIBA4/VBroKCereoI/AAAAAAAADow/rlUgnzfJG3E/s1600/5Z6A6120.jpg)
A new route through this roof? Yes, let's do it!!! Photo: Matt Pycroft/Coldhouse Collective. (http://coldhousecollective.com/)
I wrote the first few paragraphs below about a week ago in the Dolomites, but didn't post it up. Thankfully, I put them right out of date in the days that followed:
Sep 6th. I am in the Dolomites for the second time this summer, trying to do a new route. I’ve spent over three weeks here and had less than ten days on the wall. The locals tell me it’s been the worst summer in decades. Since there’s not much I can do about that, I’m trying to focus on the good stuff I’ve already done.
First, I came out for a week with Karl and started to try and aid climb through the immensely steep line I wanted to climb. That was a lot of fun, most of the time anyway. After a run of body weight placements on one section, I finally got a big bong fully into a pocket and shouted down to Karl that I finally had a good placement to settle my nerves and potentially retreat from. A few minutes later while sitting on a skyhook above the good peg, it came right out in my hand with the slightest touch.
I pressed on but eventually arrived at a blank roof with no holds for free climbing and realised it wasn’t going to happen. I resigned myself that the new route idea was finished and I’d try Alex Huber’s famous route Panaroma instead. On the last day I went up for a look at Panaroma’s top 8c pitch. From the vantage point of the big loops of static rope in space under the roofs, I spotted a potential other way for the new route. This continued to simmer in my mind while I was back home in Scotland for two weeks of film work.
I arrived back in the Dolomites on Aug 24th and got stuck straight into investigating the line on my own, while Alan Cassidy and Rob Sutton worked on Bellavista. I got a great start and managed to get the pegs in across the roofs and get a fixed rope in place in a couple of days. In the following week, we lost time to bad weather, but I still managed to complete the intense process of cleaning the spectacularly loose rock and figuring out which holds were solid enough.
The route looks utterly amazing. And now it’s ready for me to start working it. But it won’t stop raining and we only have 4 days left. Since I have decided to stop putting so much pressure on myself, I have already accepted that I will have to come back next summer to climb it. It’s just not been the summer for getting stuff done in the Dolomites. We saw Jacopo Larcher going through the same process on Panaroma, slipping off the damp crux repeatedly after hanging out here for the summer.
I’m still happy with the way things have gone. The route is well worth a return trip next summer.
4 days later...
Well it didn’t quite work out like that. Two days among an endless stream of thunderstorm days turned out to be ok. I tried my absolute best to make both of them count. On the first day I shunted up the lower pitches (6b+, 6c+, 7a, 6c+) to warm up, then quickly saw off the first roof pitch which was only 7b+. The next pitch, around 8a+ and the best pitch I’ve ever seen in the Dolomites was great fun to work on. First go up I worked out the moves, which were just brilliant. The pitch kicks off with a huge span across the roof to a flake and wild cut loose, followed by powerful, positive climbing in the most mind blowing situation. On my second go, I nearly linked the whole pitch, but had to give in 15 feet from the belay with terminal rope drag (just needed double ropes). At the belay I was so pumped I couldn’t imagine climbing anything else and was desperate to go down.
At this point the route joins Alex Huber’s Panaroma just before its 8c pitch through the final roofs. I forced myself to go out and try the moves, since I knew there would be only one more day in the trip to try the project.The next day I felt like I’d been given a good kicking. I belayed Alan while he destroyed an 8b+ in the valley sport crags, saw off yet another amazing pizza in seconds and then hit the sack. The forecast for the next day was good, and everyone knew it would be the last day for climbing on the project. They asked ‘What time are we getting up?’ Since my best effort on the top 8c was still basically a bolt to bolt, albeit while feeling very tired and shivering in the cold, I told them I would have a 5% chance to succeed so there was no point getting up early. An extra few hours of sleep would do more for my chances. So we rose at 8 and drunk a lot of tea.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Ab5pVmOIyw/VBroO1MEDCI/AAAAAAAADpA/LJKQzoAaiW4/s1600/5Z6A8746.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Ab5pVmOIyw/VBroO1MEDCI/AAAAAAAADpA/LJKQzoAaiW4/s1600/5Z6A8746.jpg)
The awesome big 8a+ pitch leading up into Panaroma. They don't come much more out there than this pitch. Photo: Matt Pycroft/Coldhouse Collective (http://coldhousecollective.com/). Incidentally, Coldhouse filmed our ascent for Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/). I'll post up the footage when it's released.
At 11am I started leading the lower wall pitches with Alan Cassidy, which floated by without any dramas. The roof was its usual damp and slippery self, so the 7b+ around the nose felt like a wake up call and I arrived at the diving board perch belay quite pumped. I shared with Alan that I was unsure even to bother continuing since the rock was so damp. But I was just letting of steam - of course there’s no way I would waste an opportunity to try, especially as I noticed some fitness in my arms from the previous session. So, for my damp 8a+ burn, I did the only thing I could do, took out my brain and went for it at full pelt. Where the fall is scary but basically safe, I find the best mindset is to almost invite the fall by removing all inhibitions and climb with total commitment. And so, after some nervous waits at each shakeout along the way, I arrived at the Panaroma belay with a deep burning pump in my arms and stared across at the 8c. 150 metres climbed, 12 metres between me and 6c+ maximum to the top.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s4ygzh1qK_k/VBroL9kSwCI/AAAAAAAADo4/SO2CdEE5iSQ/s1600/5Z6A6779.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s4ygzh1qK_k/VBroL9kSwCI/AAAAAAAADo4/SO2CdEE5iSQ/s1600/5Z6A6779.jpg)
Staring out a wet flake on the Panaroma 8c pitch. Photo: Matt Pycroft/Coldhouse Collective. (http://coldhousecollective.com/)
I knew it would be wet and slippery, and I’d have to engage full on terrier mode to even have a chance. But again, what else would I do? No prizes for not giving it everything. So I shut my mind up, sat for a quiet moment in my harness, and then departed. The next three minutes were not particularly pretty. Feet pinged off wet footholds, brute force kept me on the rock and I don’t think I’ve ever had a higher breathing rate. Then I found myself hanging from a huge jug on the vertical expanse above the final roof, unable to get a word out between gasps for oxygen. After a minute or two, I’d calmed down enough to flop onto the belay ledge and grin.
So. Just two 6c+ pitches and then 400 metres of the Cassin route to go. I looked around at the sky and saw rain showers in all directions. Please don’t rain on us! It didn’t. With fantastic luck, the showers melted away into the evening as we raced higher and higher up the Cassin route, switching rapidly at the belays and speed climbing upwards. at 11pm, we strolled without our headtorches on to the summit of Cima Ovest in glorious full moonlight and a perfectly warm and still night. After taking in the incredible moonlit vista for a while and chatting to Helen and Claire on the phone, we ambled down for beer at 1am.
It was both the hardest and definitely the finest route I've climbed in my 5 or so trips to the Dolomites over the past 13 years. The lower wall free climbs the first 90 metres of the old Baur aid route (don't trust those old drilled pegs, they break!). But the best thing about it is that it climbs more or less straight up through the roof amphitheatre. As I write on September 18th, I'm hoping and waiting eagerly to find out if my country will take it's opportunity to complete it's new route and eclipse this climb as the highlight of my summer so far.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_rjlOIuSDs/VBroVHNg_VI/AAAAAAAADpI/Ox3zyhsLTok/s1600/IMG_0087.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--_rjlOIuSDs/VBroVHNg_VI/AAAAAAAADpI/Ox3zyhsLTok/s1600/IMG_0087.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/M9_BugmWdVY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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What have we done? (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fAxX8QwSUuw/what-have-we-done.html)
20 September 2014, 1:18 pm
What country voluntarily votes to hand over its own independence? Mine did. Yesterday I felt completely empty and devastated by what happened in Scotland. It was a moment when you suddenly realise how easily the chance for something really special can be obscured by the fear of losing what we already have.
Lots of folk have tried to point out positives in what has happened, and I admire them for that. They’ve said it’s got the Scots engaged in politics and that it’s a wake up call for the UK political system. I’m normally first to look for a positive way to look at things, but in this case I think we have to face up to the size and uniqueness of the opportunity we’ve just wasted. Sure, we got engaged in politics. But despite all the discussion, people somehow didn’t see that this movement towards independence wasn’t about nationalism, wasn’t about isolation of ourselves. Despite all the discussion, people still focused on the character of individuals like Alex Salmond, they thought that big corporates warning us that prices would go up was them speaking for our best interests, not theirs.
And what about that wake up call for the UK’s political system? I don’t think I can bear to watch as month by month, they slowly hit the snooze button and roll over. Just as they have done for the climate change wake up call, the banking crisis wake up call, The ever increasing mountain of debt, the food industry that is making us fat and ill, the slow failure of antibiotics and all these other problems that don’t win votes to address.
For a few weeks, I almost dared to feel that just once in my lifetime, a country could be smart and courageous enough to see past all this, and that country would be my country. It was too good to be true. I tried all day to digest it and in the end, wandered outside into a warm night, sat down in the grass and cried. Not for my own selfish interests, but for what this means for us as people all across the world.
Of course I respect the decision even though I thought it was an awful one. I certainly don’t blame some people for feeling that we don’t need independence. This may turn out to be true, in a way. Sure, we can settle for what we have right now. We are one of the luckiest countries in the world already. However, this only deepens the irony that we should pass up the opportunity for life in the country to have become much more meaningful, exciting and rewarding.
I have to admit that there is not a lot I can take from this experience to improve my own life and contribution. I will remember it for my remaining years as among the most hopeless days of my life. What I will take, is the biggest reminder I think I’ll ever have that our human minds are far too full of fear. Rather than changing for the better, it seems like modern life is making this even worse. So my lesson from this is that life is too short and shit not to be utterly fearless in grabbing the good opportunities that do come your way. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fAxX8QwSUuw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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:boohoo:
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Bouldering, media and Messner's castle (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/LK_vwiIL3N0/bouldering-media-and-messners-castle.html)
26 October 2014, 1:17 pm
A damp day in Magic Wood (http://vimeo.com/110059470) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
A wee vid of one damp day in Magic Wood (Pirhana 7C and Left hand of Darkness 8a) and a quick hour on the way home at Kyloe in Northumberland (Hitchhiker's Sit Start 7C+). I last visited Kyloe maybe 12 or 13 years ago I think. And couldn't do this problem!
After the rather down few weeks following the no vote, I was fortunate enough to have a trip to look forward to. I’m now on my way home from a Gore-Tex event at the International Mountain Summit in the Dolomites. En route, Claire, Freida and I decided to make three stops of several days each. First we took on Disneyland Paris. Quite an experience.
Then we met up with friends in Fontainbleau. Much of our days here were spent finding things to do while rain poured down. We managed to get two or three sessions in on the boulders. Conditions were awful and so nothing hard was done. The hardest thing I could get to the top of was Salle Gosse (7C). There was a brief window of wind and although conditions were still pretty bad, I almost got the 8a sit start. I’d love to come back here in decent conditions.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nr3sFOk7gac/VEzsdOP_yKI/AAAAAAAADpg/53wNJaRjXx8/s1600/Freida+in+font.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nr3sFOk7gac/VEzsdOP_yKI/AAAAAAAADpg/53wNJaRjXx8/s1600/Freida+in+font.jpg)
The most important thing I did here was climb with Freida. She learned a lot from the brief opportunities for clambering up little boulders. Claire’s face was a picture when Freida started screaming ‘boulders!!!” and sprinted off in the direction of the rocks.
Next, we moved on to Magic Wood. And again, we spent most of the days waiting for it to stop raining. I did get one good session at the start and did the moves on an excellent long problem called ‘From Shallow Water to Riverbed’ (8B+). There’s no way I could do it in bad conditions. I get a bit annoyed with myself for never learning, and accepting how badly I climb it warm/damp conditions. My goal for this trip was simply to learn to pull hard on holds again after a summer of alpine north wall action and general multipitch big hold action. So I shouldn’t be worrying myself about this. But inevitably once presented with a forest full of hard and amazing boulders, I still want to climb them just as much. Bouldering trips teach me over and over again that I’m simply not strong enough to climb hard stuff when it’s greasy. I just have to suss out the sequence, and take my opportunity when the cold breeze finally comes. Easier said than done, for my fiery head anyway.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R4B7UuqWq-A/VEzsXeU2_DI/AAAAAAAADpY/zzvbeU75-aQ/s1600/Freida+in+font+(1).jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R4B7UuqWq-A/VEzsXeU2_DI/AAAAAAAADpY/zzvbeU75-aQ/s1600/Freida+in+font+(1).jpg)
Freida inspecting the very wet Riverbed boulder, Magic Wood.
I reminded myself of my experience here last time, after over two weeks of failing and failing on Mystic Stylez (8B+), I needed literally one try to do it easily, the one time I turned up and there was a cold breeze. Keep that in mind, MacLeod.
After playing in the sand with Freida under a still soaking Riverbed boulder, I did get two nice problems climbed in semi-dry conditions Piranha (7C) and Left Hand of Darkness (8A/8A+). They are in the wee vid above. I do really like Magic Wood and am still totally inspired to train and come back here for a long trip in good conditions. Hopefully in the spring...
And then it was on to the IMS festival in Brixen. The folks at the IMS and Gore-Tex took great care of us. I was especially impressed on the climbing day to turn up at the crag at 9am to find catering staff already set up with tables spread with cakes, sausages, potatoes, apples and even beer!
On the last day I was due to take part in a panel discussion about climbing and the media at Reinhold Messner’s castle in Bolzano. There was a panel of rather esteemed climbers, journalists from near and far, and me. Generally speaking, there was were quite a few voices feeling that mainstream journalism was going rather downhill. Messner himself seemed worried about both the direction of journalism, and alpinism itself.
While I totally agree that the newspapers spew out daily rubbish on everything from the usual propaganda to rubbish about climbers and climbing, I’m not sure how much of a problem this is for climbers. Messner and others expressed concern that kudos would be dished out unfairly to pretender alpinists, using their bottled oxygen to rattle out tweets while being dragged up Everest. Meanwhile, the real feats of alpinism go unnoticed. For some, seeking sponsorship to achieve some ‘real’ climbing feats, this must be an issue. But it balanced out in some ways. Sometimes, I feel that it’s convenient that much of the BS in climbing is kept contained within Everest instead of infecting the whole of climbing. In other words, leave them to it. We can still achieve plenty in the media, if not far more these days with social media.
When I say ‘achieve’, I’m not thinking of maximum dissemination of our boasts about our hardcore ascents. In my mind, the primary purpose of dealing with the media at all as climbers is to inspire and inform an audience, sharing our ideas about what climbing gives us and what we learn from our escapades in the mountains. However, some playing the media at it’s own game can help us with this goal.
Just as we love to hate climbers who use things like an oxygen and guide supported ascent of Everest to launch a narcissistic career in anything from motivational speaking to politics, we can use our ascents to spread a different message.
Guys like Tim Emmett and Will Gadd are great exemplars at this. They can both be showmen when it is the right time. This takes the attention. Then once they have the attention, they use it to show their audience some really great ideas and ways of living.
Social media has made this even easier than before. In days gone by, in order to sustain any profile, you had to keep doing things that got you mainstream media attention. Now, you can use just one appearance to gain an audience for your feed and off you go.
Now, I understand that only a very few can achieve the same reach in social media as you can in mainstream media, even today. However, I don’t think that mainstream media attention is always all it’s cracked up to be. It is often consumed at a passive level, and of course, often written up badly by journalists with selling more dead trees or eyeballs in mind, instead of exerting a positive influence on people.
Coming out of the discussion at Messner’s, I was left with the conclusion that complaining about other alpinists and journalists does little to help things. However, there is a lot we can do by focusing on our own responsibilities and resources. Where we do get a chance to speak through a mainstream media outlet, let’s use the opportunity to speak clearly about the good things in climbing. Otherwise, the stories will only ever be about deaths in the mountains and Everest shenanigans. As climbers I feel we are sometimes awkward in presenting our messages to a non-climbing audience. This may be partly or largely out of fear of oversimplifying or dumbing our ideas down. I think we have to get better at communicating to this audience, as well as accepting that we have to speak a little differently to an audience that has yet to learn that climbing is not all about death, risk and who is the fastest or first. Remaining aloof, prickly, or simply opting out of the discussion isn’t a great solution.
The good news is that even if some some profit driven journalist drives our climbing down to a level of ‘world record’ this or ‘adrenaline junkie’ that, as long as he points at our blog or twitter feed, we may have a second chance to speak to that audience and tell them a different story.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/LK_vwiIL3N0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lectures coming up (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/f7SigY_hHK4/lectures-coming-up.html)
31 October 2014, 5:59 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g6btp93fPY4/VFPM4l9RA_I/AAAAAAAADpw/4TEhYIeSbOU/s1600/MacLeod+Cima+Ovest.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g6btp93fPY4/VFPM4l9RA_I/AAAAAAAADpw/4TEhYIeSbOU/s1600/MacLeod+Cima+Ovest.jpg)
Project Fear 8a+, Cima Ovest north face, Dolomites. Something I'll speak about in my talks coming up in the next month. Photo: Matt Pycroft/Coldhouse Collective (http://coldhousecollective.com/)
In the coming weeks I’m speaking in quite a few places around Scotland and England. I’ll be talking about some of the big wall expeditions I’ve been on recently; the big roof on Cima Ovest, The Mermoz in Patagonia and other very big lumps of rock. As always I’ll also try and make sense of the thoughts that run through my head that motivate me for climbing, training and getting back out on the lead after some rather nasty ground falls.
I’m in:
Inverness, Tiso Outdoor Experience on Nov 10th. Tickets here. (http://www.tiso.com/news/lectures/5bd0d747-b21c-aee4-5dc9-d35deb541f77/)
Edinburgh, Tiso Outdoor Experience on Nov 11th. Tickets here (http://www.tiso.com/news/lectures/5bd0d747-b21c-aee4-5dc9-d35deb541f77/).
Aberdeen Transition Extreme, Scottish student's climbing festival Nov 12th. Tickets here. (http://www.scottishstudentsport.com/events.asp?s=2&id=SUS-V11965)
Hathersage, Outside. Dec 6th. Tickets here. (http://www.outside.co.uk/latest/news/Winterfest-2014)
See you there!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/f7SigY_hHK4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland and other new books in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/JVm7fW7srRk/the-great-mountain-crags-of-scotland.html)
31 October 2014, 6:34 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountaincrags.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/GreatMountainCrags.html)The long awaited book The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/GreatMountainCrags.html), collated by Guy Robertson and Adrian Crofton is about to be released. Our stock is on the way and it’s up in the shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/GreatMountainCrags.html) for pre-order. We are expecting the stock in the next few days.
Having written a section of the book myself, on the Cobbler, I have been able to get a sneak preview of some of the other content. It’s going to be a brilliant book, and of course a must for anyone who climbs, or aspires to climb on the mountain crags. It’s great to see that in the internet age that big, chunky books of climbing inspiration, comparable, if not better than, the old extreme rock books can still come out. In my section I described my earliest days of climbing, jumping on the train after school and soloing some of the mountain's best mixed routes using whatever gear I could find or borrow. I had so much fun there.
With so much content, and so many contributing authors, this has of course been a long time coming. I think climbers will feel it has been worth the wait and will treasure their copy. I was both surprised and honoured to see that I have made the front cover!
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hangingon.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/images/hangingon.jpg)We have also just added the new book by Martin Boysen (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hangingon.html) on his life of exploratory and adventurous climbing all over the world from our own mountains to the likes of Cerro Torre and Annapurna. It's in the shop here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/hangingon.html)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/JVm7fW7srRk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Anatomist, Glen Torridon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KbMuRCuD9-s/the-anatomist-glen-torridon.html)
6 November 2014, 12:05 am
The Anatomist, Torridon (http://vimeo.com/111056244) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Bouldering in Glen Torridon at this time of year does make me feel pretty lucky. The best rock in the British Isles, amazing scenery, solitude, good conditions, easy approaches and even some superb cafes. It doesn’t get much better. I’m pleased to say I’ve still got most of it to explore as well. I really ought to bend the ears of Ian Taylor, Dan Varian and a few other folk who’ve scouted about a bit more for good projects to try. I know of a couple of great ones, but they might be too hard for me, in the Font 8C region. Not that this will stop me trying.
In the meantime I wanted to just tick off some of the existing stuff. Last week I went to Dan Varians ‘The Anatomist’ (7C+) behind the new house in Annat. After 10.4 inches of rain in a couple of days in the west highalnds, it was dripping. Today I went back, armed with a towel, which was just as well. The landing is a bit on the poor side and I hauled up 5 mats since I was on my own.
I still managed to slip off and somersault backwards down the boulder gully, off my mats and onto some rather nasty rocks which took a fair chunk out of my elbow and added various other good bragging scars. At least I still did it. Check out the video above and see what you think of my falling technique. Classic problem.
This is always a busy time of year for me, finishing writing and filming projects and travelling around doing lectures and coaching events. In between all that, I’ve loved getting a bit of time in my climbing wall and starting on the ladder of finger strength and agility again. After the last two years of ups and downs, I feel I have am starting from half a rung lower. But my motivation is maybe that wee notch higher than ever. Hopefully soon I’ll be back in Torridon when the sun next shines and the slopers are even colder.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KbMuRCuD9-s)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The Ben Nevis North Face survey (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/127W62GzUEk/the-ben-nevis-north-face-survey.html)
17 November 2014, 2:21 pm
Ben Nevis - The Hidden Side (TEASER!) (http://vimeo.com/111841291) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (http://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
In August, we shot a film about a survey. It was the most fascinating fortnight I’ve had in a long time. The newly emerging Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://www.facebook.com/nevislandscape) has numerous impressive projects lined up for the Ben Nevis area, and this was one of them. A large team of climbers, botanists and geologists teamed up to explore the length and breadth of the north face over two weeks and try to get a better understanding of how the mountain was formed and which rare plants were hiding in the depths of the gullies as yet unrecorded.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sZgk7uYxB28/VGn90mqKLlI/AAAAAAAADqk/7bob2WMwM4Q/s1600/survey+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sZgk7uYxB28/VGn90mqKLlI/AAAAAAAADqk/7bob2WMwM4Q/s1600/survey+1.jpg)
We were asked to film the project. I’m editing the story that emerged at the moment and it certainly wasn’t what I expected. Generally speaking, I find most aspects of science interesting. But I have never spent any time learning about botany before and have only limited knowledge of geology. One overarching theme I wanted to explore while filming was what made these scientists tick. Climbers wax lyrical about the lines on Ben Nevis, the character of the ice, the weather and all the other ingredients for adventure. I bluntly asked the botanical and geological experts on the survey what the point of their work was.
One of Scotland’s leading botanists, Gordon Rothero’s reply was equally blunt. “Because it’s fun”. As I asked more and more of the scientists why they spent their lives studying the details of mountain environments, the same theme came back. Their studies made them happy. More specifically, It made them feel connected to the places they studied. This is something I felt the whole team, climbers and scientists of various disciplines had absolutely in common. By knowing the details of the mountains, they felt connected, and happy.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mgiiKOwuj7A/VGn9YnHHCmI/AAAAAAAADqc/sNxpf25oaeo/s1600/survey+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mgiiKOwuj7A/VGn9YnHHCmI/AAAAAAAADqc/sNxpf25oaeo/s1600/survey+2.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x7HqyoMj1Y4/VGn-F5CknAI/AAAAAAAADqs/Jw6Mb2_VWBo/s1600/survey+3.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x7HqyoMj1Y4/VGn-F5CknAI/AAAAAAAADqs/Jw6Mb2_VWBo/s1600/survey+3.jpg)
As for the survey findings, one story that emerged kind of took everyone by surprise. The geologists Jenny and Roddy had already told me when we shot the film for their FieldMove Clino app on the Ben in June that the available geological mapping that had been done 60 odd years ago was not matching what they had seen on the mountain. After a full two weeks gathering huge amounts of geological readings (using the app meant taking readings ten fold faster that traditional methods) it seemed like the old model of how Ben Nevis was formed was looking all but dead.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHTrLk5bk-M/VGn-7KCPTxI/AAAAAAAADq4/3gkFLT-tGeU/s1600/survey+4.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHTrLk5bk-M/VGn-7KCPTxI/AAAAAAAADq4/3gkFLT-tGeU/s1600/survey+4.jpg)
Roddy and Donald abseiling down the line of my own route Don't Die of Ignorance on the Comb. This part of the mountain is made of volcanic breccias; the result of violent volcanic eruption. I was kind of strange for me going back here after having climbed hard through this part in winter several years ago.
The traditional model of the formation of the Ben is that it was a ring fault where the centre of the ring collapsed into the earth’s magma below, with violent eruptions around the periphery. It now looks like the real picture may be very different. Their attention focused on the straight line of the Allt a’ Mhuillin itself and it may be that this was the fault in the earth’s crust that let granites come to the surface. It’s still unclear whether the rocks on the Ben Nevis side of the Allt a’ Mhuillin collapsed down, or the rocks on the other side rose up. It will take some time for them to analyse the data and they may need to collect more in order to obtain a clearer picture.
The problem with the traditional caldera subsidence model is space. What happens to the vast quantities of viscous magmas displaced by a sinking lump of the earth’s crust? There are subsequent surveys planned for the next few summers, and it may be that we cannot make a firm conclusion about Ben Nevis until after these have been completed.
Along the way I captured huge amounts of great interviews with interesting folk and footage of the deep dark gullies on the Ben. I also had a great night along with my mum up on Carn Mor Dearg bivvying out and shooting nice timelapses of the stars and sunrise on the north face.
If you want to see the film it’ll be showing at the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://mountainfestival.co.uk/) in February, and then released online afterwards. In the meantime, enjoy the teaser above.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/127W62GzUEk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Drag Race (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/pcPGa3oG-Ro/drag-race.html)
24 November 2014, 2:44 pm
Drag Race 8A Rannoch Moor (http://vimeo.com/112704613) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
On the vast, beautiful expanse of Rannoch Moor, a handful of granite erratics dotted around are kind of distracting for boulderers trying to drive in a straight line on the A82 into Glen Coe. In the low, crisp winter light, you’re always looking to see if you somehow missed a hidden boulder out there somewhere. I knew that the one big boulder close to the road had a few problems on perfect rough granite, but they were all easy.
But last year Alan Cassidy told me that a large flake had broken off the steep side, leaving a smooth sloping shelf and an excellent project he thought might be 8A or 8A+. I had a quick look in May and realised I had to come back as soon as it was cold enough to drag those perfect slopers.
Last week I had a quick try in poor conditions and worked out the moves. On the first day of proper snow in the mountains, I was straight back there and managed it. What a gem of a problem. As good quality as you’ll find anywhere. You can’t miss the boulder, easily seen from the road, five minutes walk from the first layby south of the Rannoch Moor summit.
Boulder season is ON!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/pcPGa3oG-Ro)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The fire (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mafHVjrePoQ/the-fire.html)
25 November 2014, 2:38 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZluOSeFVRUo/VHSScz7ziQI/AAAAAAAADrI/F_GWD51KAKY/s1600/IMG_5655.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZluOSeFVRUo/VHSScz7ziQI/AAAAAAAADrI/F_GWD51KAKY/s1600/IMG_5655.JPG)
At this time of year, I often get manic. Im not really sure why. I know it’s not related to the season, because I’ve had the effects at other times in the year also. In a gradual process that takes many weeks to build up, I notice a string of quite striking mental and physical changes.
My mind tends to race all day long. When it gets to 2am and I’m still working or training, I’m exhausted and can barely conjure a rational thought. But I don’t want to stop. Going to bed and sleeping is so obviously required, but the other part of my mind resists it to the last. I find that I have amazing daydreams while driving or walking and find that these yield some strong ideas about whatever I’m working on, and all sorts of other things.
Because I’ve noticed this happening to me before in most years over the past decade of my life, I don’t mind it. It’s a kind of polariser of everything. It can cause me some serious problems, chiefly insomnia and being quite unreasonable. But I also find that I have the kind of fire of motivation that can drive a lot of things forward. The challenge is to tame it to harness the great benefits and try not to let it turn me into a sleep deprived zealot.
The first time I really became aware that this was not normal was in 2006. I was living in Dumbarton. I’d just done the first ascent of Rhapsody and after having pulled my climbing up from the odd 8b sport redpoint to 8c+ in a little over a year, I hadn’t done any work and was completely broke. I was counting out 2 pence pieces from a jar in my flat to by tins of beans and realised that I needed to change my life if I wanted to move forward onto new horizons in my climbing. The fire at that time was directed (outside of my climbing of course) onto starting to write this blog and trying to learn how to communicate what I’d learned from my life as a climber and student of sports science to coach other climbers. My accepted cut off for going to bed got later and later and I used to forcefully press the off button on the computer when I saw the sun start to rise out of my window.
My best effort at harnessing it was while I was writing my book 9 out of 10 (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html) in 2009. I found that I had so much mental energy that I was able to focus for up to 12 hours a day on writing with only trips to the kettle as breaks. When I don’t have the fire, I find it desperately hard to concentrate for long, uninterrupted periods. After I’d read, thought and written furiously for my shift, I’d attack my board at 10 or 11 at night, for a couple of hours. In less than two months, I got to the end of the book, and left for a sport trip in Spain.
The fire hadn’t gone, but I was physically exhausted. On the first day of the trip, I let my partners climb as a pair while I set up a rope to work on A’ Muerte (9a) by myself. After I’d set up the rope, I sat down at the base, put on my rock-shoes and paused for a moment, realising I felt pretty tired. I sat back against the rock to take a moment’s rest. Four hours later I woke up, and stumbled off to my sleeping bag. Despite being deprived of real rock for the previous two months, I started the trip with three days in bed before I felt recovered enough to begin climbing. But two weeks later I climbed the route for my first 9a, and felt in really great shape.
Right now, every night I feel like I’d need to hit myself over the head with a frying pan to stop my mind racing into the wee small hours. It’s really good being at home for a little while after spending most of this year out of the country on climbing trips. I wonder if it’s that opportunity to focus on climbing, training and work projects for a spell has brought on my current state of agitation. One minute I’m falling asleep over my dinner, the next I feel really good climbing on my board. One thing I have learned is that trying to work against what your mind and body want to do doesn’t really work. Not working, when I want to work, makes me depressed really quickly. Yet a mind that doesn’t have a diurnal ‘off switch’ is trying to square a circle. Like many problems in productivity, it may come down to an issue of habit replacement and self-discipline. I’m not really strict in following the simple rules of overcoming insomnia. I ought to be. An extreme problem requires an extreme intervention. I probably need some formal coaching in the field.
Complaints aside, I don’t really want this period to end. I know that I’m pretty lucky to have the feeling of burning motivation for the work I do, and I do enjoy it.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mafHVjrePoQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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West Highland Adventure Trail (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/_qSvG2rlSh0/west-highland-adventure-trail.html)
1 December 2014, 3:35 pm
West Highland Adventure Trail (http://vimeo.com/104149032) from Dave MacLeod (http://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The School of Adventure Studies at West Highland College (http://www.whc.uhi.ac.uk/) asked us to edit together some footage they shot on the West Highland Adventure Trail they ran in the spring. It’s a pretty cool place to study, don’t you think?Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/_qSvG2rlSh0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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A pile of fresh titles for December (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/k8k1OBflZjs/a-pile-of-fresh-titles-for-december.html)
7 December 2014, 1:35 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/OneMoveTooManysmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/OneMoveTooMany.html)We’ve just added a pile of fresh products to the shop of essential reading and viewing for climbers. First off is Volker Schoffl and Thomas Hochholzer’s climbing injury book One Move Too Many (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/OneMoveTooMany.html). Reliable information on dealing with climbing injuries is still hard to come by in 2014 and climbers really have to make themselves experts in this field in order to minimise the disruption that injury will inevitably cause them in a life of climbing. As many of you will know, I am just finishing a book on this subject myself. However, climbers really cannot read enough on this subject and advice from such prolific researchers as these authors will reap huge benefits on your climbing. One Move Too Many has been around for a while, but this is a revised second edition (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/OneMoveTooMany.html), just out.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/BeyondLimitssmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/BeyondLimits.html)I was excited to see Steve McClure’s story (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/BeyondLimits.html) finally out. Steve is a rare thing in climbing, or in sport in general. He is a brilliant athlete and has shown amazing commitment and vision in how he has achieved his world class routes which are still giving the likes of Adam Ondra something to chew on today. Yet almost everyone can relate to him as he has pursued that tricky balance of trying to make these achievements happen while still leading a ‘normal’ life of family, work and a generally well-rounded perspective on life. In other words, he is one of the best role models we have in climbing, and every climber ought to listen to what he has to say. Since he is also an excellent writer who has an ability to get to the core of why it’s worth talking about all of the themes explored in his book. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/BeyondLimits.html)
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/BritRocksmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/britrock.html)Next up is Alastair Lee’s Brit Rock 2014 DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/britrock.html) which is a collection of climbing and other outdoor sports films. As a climber, this DVD is a must have because of the first film on the disc; Stone Free, following the free solo exploits of Julian Lines. Although he is one of the world’s best solo climbers (if it’s a good idea to even say that out loud?!), he is the polar opposite of some of the other famous solo climbers around at the moment. And this is why we should watch it. It’s not just a jaw dropping, nerve tingling scare fest (although there is plenty of that). We get to see a very honest look into Jules mind and way of life. It is a way of life that is largely forgotten even by plenty of climbers these days. Listening to what Jules has to say about what his experiences on the mountain cliffs mean to him is a deeply inspiring watch. And then there is Project Mina, which shares the inspiring content, albeit in a very different environment of competition climbing. The running and biking films were bonuses for me, but they were both fantastic films and ones that I may not have seen unless I’d bought the DVD.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/AvalanchePocketGuidesmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/AvalanchePocketGuide.html)We have also added the Avalanche Pocket Guide (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/AvalanchePocketGuide.html) to the shop. Now this is something it might be tempting to skip. It’s not the coolest (no pun intended) reading material to part with £7 of your hard earned cash for. However, think for just a moment about the scores of young folk just like you and me who die every winter under tons of snow. They are not different from you, they are not idiots, and they travel on the same terrain as you will be in the coming months. And they are dead. In many cases, their only mistake is ignorance. Having watched with my own eyes three climbers walk straight into an inevitable avalanche on Ben Nevis last winter (they survived, this time) it really reminded me how little we can afford to be ignorant on this subject. It’s up to you - you could either make sure you are fully briefed on the skills and lessons for making sound judgements in avalanche terrain, or you could take the risk and just hope for the best. If you can’t bear to read something so uncool yourself, at least fill your climbing partner’s Christmas stocking with it.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/mountaincragssmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/GreatMountainCrags.html)Finally, we have The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/GreatMountainCrags.html) in stock now and in a world where climbing media is increasingly cheap and cheerful, this book is a treat - well written by a who’s who of the activists on the crags, filled with great photography from the likes of Dave Cuthbertson and other talented folk and a wonderful reference to plan your adventures of future seasons in our mountains. Something to treasure.
As ever, we are dispatching daily to worldwide destinations via Royal Mail right up to and over Christmas. The main shop page is here. (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/k8k1OBflZjs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mid-winter lockdown (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AdeNU_emcqo/mid-winter-lockdown.html)
14 January 2015, 1:55 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GI10mozueIs/VLZ1BarNwgI/AAAAAAAADs0/l1Ja6mUBq4k/s1600/boardtime.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GI10mozueIs/VLZ1BarNwgI/AAAAAAAADs0/l1Ja6mUBq4k/s1600/boardtime.jpg)
Apart from a brief break with my family over Christmas, I have been on something of a lockdown to get my climbing injuries book ready to send to the printers. No distractions, no messing about, just getting down to serious work. Such is the way with big projects, both on the rock and off. It can be relatively easy to get to the nearly there stage. But exponentially harder to see off all those hurdles that jump up between ‘close’ and ‘done’.
So long as you don’t look at your email inbox, living in the highlands does make it easier to pile drive through work tasks of this nature. I’m desperate to finish them all, stone dead, and then move on and go back to the rock and ice in time for the good conditions arriving.
I spent Hogmanay in PDF print settings hell, and since then have tidied up countless other loose ends that need to be sorted to get it there. Although the little things keep coming, it will be off to the printers imminently, and I will post up more information about it then.
I’ve also just finished three climbing related films, all of a very different nature which will be online soon to show you. As the January gales and rain have raged outside here, I’ve been dashing between the house and the board for training.
Two or three little mid-winter tasks remain on my list, most of which ought to be crushed by some time next week. And then it will be time to climb.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AdeNU_emcqo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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My climbing injuries book is up for pre-order (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/gN_gyIxxFSI/my-climbing-injuries-book-is-up-for-pre.html)
19 January 2015, 12:30 pm
(http://davemacleod.com/images/make-or-break-800px.jpg) (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html)
Readers of this blog will of course know that I have been working on a book on climbing injuries for some years. It has turned out to be a much bigger book than I originally envisaged. It has been a huge project, but in a few weeks I will reach the finish line. The book is currently with the printers and some time in the next few weeks, many boxes of copies will arrive at my house. The final stages were a rather exhausting process, but I’m excited to release it and potentially help healthy climbers stay healthy and injured climbers to get back to the fray.
I’ll write a more detailed post about the content of the book when the stock arrives in early February. If you want to make sure you get a copy as soon as you can, we’ve put it up for pre-order in the shop here (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html), and it’ll be in the post to you as soon as it arrives. I’ve also added the table of contents below so you have an idea of the breadth of the areas covered.
My aim was to write the manual on how to stay healthy as a climbing athlete that I wished I’d had when I was 16. The first priority was to base my writing on the cutting edge of sports medicine research, wherever it was available. The second was to include all the diverse aspects of injury prevention and recovery, and then present them in a way that allows you to see them in the whole context of your efforts to stay injury free. As with the world of training, too many injury texts focus on or overplay the importance of just one aspect of sports medicine.
Having spent around 4 years researching, thinking and writing the book, I do feel that if I’d had access to the information contained in it when I was a teenager, my health and climbing achievements over the past 20 years would have been significantly better. I hope the book can make this difference both for both youngsters who have yet to experience injury, and battle scarred climbers like myself.
Below is the table of contents, so you can get idea of the scope of the book. You’ll find the book in the shop here. (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html)
Section 1: Make or break
Why the treatments you have tried aren’t working, and what to do about it.How to use this bookThe real reasons you are injuredStress and injuryThe reason you are still injuredThe language problemThe practitioner problemThe sports medicine problemThe missing linkExceptional use: the luxury of doing your sport badlyPreventionYour visit to the doctor’sSummary
Section 2: Know pain, or no gain
Pain and how to read itSeeing the patterns in your painWhat is healthy soreness?Understanding your painGoing beyond reading only painSummary
Section 3: Removing the causes of injury for prevention and treatment
Are you only treating symptoms?What was the real cause?The big four: technique, posture, activity, restCorrecting techniqueCorrecting postureActivityHow to restWarm-up and injuryLifestyleNutrition
Section 4: Rehabilitation of climbing injuries - treating both causes and symptoms
Acute rehabilitationWhen to move beyond acute careGoals of mid-late rehabilitationModern understanding of tendon injuries and recoveryTherapeutic activity - basic exercisesTherapeutic activity - climbingProprioceptive trainingWalking the line of rehab ups and downsTherapeutic modalitiesSurgeryDrug and other emerging treatmentsWhen to stop rehab?Summary
Section 5: Psychology of injuries: dealing with the anguish of injuryFace it: it really is that bad!Take heartFinding motivation
Section 6: Young climbersWhat young climbers should knowToo much, too young: a warningWhat parents and coaches should do
Section 7: The elbowGolfer’s and tennis elbowBrachioradialis/brachialis strainOther elbow injuries
Section 8: The fingersDifferent grips in climbing and consequences for injuryPulley injuriesWhen and how to tape the fingersPainful finger jointsFlexor unit strainsDupuytren’s contractureGanglionsOther finger injuries
Section 9: The wristTriangular fibrocartilage injuryCarpal tunnel syndromeDe Quervain’s tenosynovitisOther wrist injuries
Section 10: The shoulderShoulder impingement/rotator cuff tearsBiceps tendon insertion tearsLabral tearsShoulder dislocationFrozen shoulderThoracic outlet syndrome Shoulder and neck trigger points
Section 11: Lower body injuriesFoot pain in climbersPlantar fasciitisHeel pad bruisingIngrown toenailsSesamoid injuriesHallux valgusMorton’s neuromaAnkle injuries in climbersCartilage/joint injuriesAnkle impingement syndromeAchilles tendon painKnee injuries in climbersMeniscus tearsAnterior cruciate ligament tearsMedial collateral ligament tearsHamstrings tearHernia
Section 12: Further readingFurther reading and referencesGetting access to good care
The author’s tale of woe and hope
Glossary of key terms
Thanks
ReferencesDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/gN_gyIxxFSI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Some mixed with Natalie (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/zJiB00uijgI/some-mixed-with-natalie.html)
4 February 2015, 10:20 pm
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ic6GHdMovtA/VNKXdnfAZOI/AAAAAAAADt0/4SQiHgH8JNw/s1600/promised+land+007.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ic6GHdMovtA/VNKXdnfAZOI/AAAAAAAADt0/4SQiHgH8JNw/s1600/promised+land+007.jpg)
A quick hot aches break before the crux of Promised Land VI,6 Ben Dorain. All photos thanks to Chris Prescott & Paul Diffley
Over the past week I have been coming out from the shadow of book work and starting to regain some strength on my board. I went out with Kev and tried a hard winter project, but I was not fit enough to do it yet. So there are no shortcuts, I have some work to do to get into shape for my projects. But things are easy when you have had some time off - I feel stronger on my board every successive session. On one hand you want this feeling to last because it’s always nice to feel stronger than before. But It’s also kind of bad because for this to happen I must be really unfit!
Yesterday I had a fun day out with Natalie on Ben Dorain. We climbed a varied VI,6 called The Promised Land. It was one of Nat’s first winter climbs, so I got to lead all the pitches which were varied and interesting, with some nice easier sections on which to get into a better rhythm of moving on turf, ice and rock. I have always been pretty bad at winter climbing compared to summer trad. But yesterday’s climb reminded me how nice it is to move about on tools in well frozen turf and good hooks.
Today I was working for Mountain Equipment and tomorrow myself and Nat are heading down to Beinn Udlaidh for some nice ice.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mMcFkMJn5h8/VNKXcTEcE8I/AAAAAAAADts/3Hzf0GJoT1o/s1600/promised+land+008.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mMcFkMJn5h8/VNKXcTEcE8I/AAAAAAAADts/3Hzf0GJoT1o/s1600/promised+land+008.jpg)
Natalie Berry following the excellent ice pitch on Promised Land. Paul Diffley took the shot while filming us.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WdK67phHA0g/VNKXamD8JoI/AAAAAAAADtk/wApOD0KL9g4/s1600/promised+land+009.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WdK67phHA0g/VNKXamD8JoI/AAAAAAAADtk/wApOD0KL9g4/s1600/promised+land+009.jpg)
The southern highlands have always been my favourite place for mixed climbing.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/zJiB00uijgI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Make or Break: Don’t let climbing injuries dictate your success (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/LwPKBhhiibM/make-or-break-dont-let-climbing.html)
6 February 2015, 12:15 am
(http://davemacleod.com/images/Make-or-Break-250px.jpg) (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html)
For the past 4 years or so, I have been working on a book about climbing injuries. It spells out in detail how to treat them once you have them, based on the evidence from high quality scientific research and practice. More importantly, it discusses all the things we do in our climbing routine that cause our future injuries and prolong those we have already caused.
I have titled the book ‘Make or Break’ (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html). This is because becoming an expert in understanding the causes and treatments of climbing injuries will be make or break for your climbing career. As Wolfgang Gullich said, “getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard”. In my first book, 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html), I suggested that many aspects of training for climbing are not rocket science. Keep showing up, pulling on small holds, pushing the limits of your motivation and learning from others and you will get stronger fingers and get better at climbing.
It will be injuries that will get in the way of your progress, and if you let them, they will dictate how far you get in climbing. The research suggests that nearly all climbers get injured at some point. Finger injuries are most likely, followed by elbows and shoulders. Of course there are countless bits of our anatomy that can break if suitably mistreated. When you get one of these injuries, you need to be the expert, because unfortunately you cannot rely on anyone else to make sure you recover. This is not because doctors and therapists fail to do a good job (although they sometimes do). It is because there is no single source of advice on the vast array of things you must do to make sure you recover well and prevent future injuries. The climbing coaches, physiotherapists, otrhopaedic surgeons etc. that you will see will all give you pieces of the jigsaw puzzle, but it is you who must put them together.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eJ_JEL-Oej4/VNP1TYGkygI/AAAAAAAADuE/LNU7ssdKUHY/s1600/IMG_7710.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eJ_JEL-Oej4/VNP1TYGkygI/AAAAAAAADuE/LNU7ssdKUHY/s1600/IMG_7710.jpg)
Claire MacLeod dispatching our pre-orders the other night.
During the process of writing the book, I have discovered many pieces of hard scientific information and subtle concepts I wish I’d known when I was 16. They would have saved me so much of the pain and psychological torment of injuries that climbers everywhere share at some point in their career. There are many strands of information in the book. It is a handbook on how to take care of yourself as a lifelong climbing athlete. In this blog post, I will briefly outline three messages that will give you a flavour of what you will find in the book:
1. Tendons don’t like rest, or change.
Surprisingly, sports medicine research still has a lot to learn about tendons and how they heal and respond to training. However, there have been several big steps forward in the research over the past decade or two. The only problem is, new knowledge in sports medicine takes years or even decades to filter through to the advice you receive. Consider the following quote (http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/early/2013/04/11/bjsports-2013-092329.full.html):
“In general, it takes approximately 17 years to get 14% of research findings adopted into practice. Moreover, only 30–50% of patients receive recommended care, 20–30% receive care that is not needed or that is potentially harmful and 96% may receive care with the absence of evidence of effectiveness.”
I was shocked too when I read that. I was aware through my own experience that the advice I’d been given to recover from my own climbing injuries was often at odds with research I’d read. But to discover the extent of the lag between research findings and advice given to sportspeople is depressing. We only have one life and we cannot afford to receive outdated advice. Unfortunately, the internet hasn’t made the task of unearthing reliable advice any easier. Scientific journals remain hidden to most behind a paywall, while the same poor quality, outdated and non-specific advice drowns out the few reliable sources.
One of the shifts in understanding from the past decade is that slow-onset tendon injuries such as golfer’s elbow do not respond well to complete rest. In fact, it often makes the condition worse. Moreover, many of the adjunct treatments often offered - stretching, massage, ibuprofen may do little to contribute to healing, and only affect pain. Instead, the most promising treatment has been large volumes of exercise of a specific mode (eccentric) and at a level which causes some pain. Much of this seems counterintuitive at first sight, which is why a detailed understanding of what happens in injured tendons is so important.
Some practitioners in sports medicine are still working to a pre-1990s concept of tendon healing and will advise you to heal your injured tendons by resting them completely. In contrast, modern research has found that the best way to heal injured tendons is to use them, but only in a way that is specific to the nature of the injury. Tendons do not like rest or change. The successful formula is to provide constant stimulus to tendons to maintain their health. But if you want to change that stimulus, such as by training harder, you must do so very carefully, using all the cues from the body that you can listen to.
Section 1 of the book discusses in detail the limitations of the sports medicine industry and how to get the most out of it, and section 4 details the modern understanding of tendon injuries and how to successfully treat them.
2. Know pain, or no gain
Above I hinted at the difference between the pain level and the healing status of an injury - a crucial concept for any sportsperson to understand. Understanding of the nature of pain has been another area of science that has advanced hugely in sports medicine. It is not enough to be able to listen to your body. You need to be able to decode the messages and see the patterns in them. This is both a science and an art.
Climbers need to be able to differentiate between healthy soreness from training and activity, and damage that demands action. They need to be able to take understand how various treatments affect pain from their injuries and what this means for their daily decisions on how much activity to expose them to. They need to understand how many aspects of their environment and psychological state amplify or suppress pain sensations from their daily activities. Pain sensations are an essential measure for climbers to monitor, but without detailed knowledge of how it works, it is very easy to interpret those messages from pain wrongly.
Section 2 of the book is entirely devoted to understanding pain.
3. The luxury of doing sport badly will not last
A young body can withstand a surprising amount of abuse. But the relentlessness of sport and training amplifies the effect of small imbalances or errors, and it doesn’t take long before these accumulate to the point of injury. Balance is the key word here. One area of sports medicine that has come on a fair bit in recent years has been the recognition that athletes need to develop strength in a balanced way, taking care to strengthen muscles on both sides of joints. That is a good development, but it is not enough.
Balancing of the stress imposed by training for climbing needs to come in several other ways too. Matching increases in training intensity with improvements in the quality of rest is one way. Improving technique and the design of the training progression to spread that stress is another.
Sections 1, 3 and 4 deal with these concepts and the specific details that climbers should be aware of which commonly result in climbing injuries.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6khbtuIlDA/VNQD_8FwAMI/AAAAAAAADvc/tl8jo4kpVho/s1600/IMG_4690+-+Version+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6khbtuIlDA/VNQD_8FwAMI/AAAAAAAADvc/tl8jo4kpVho/s1600/IMG_4690+-+Version+2.jpg)
Repeated forceful internal rotation of the arm (the right arm on this move) is a big part of climbing. So it is no surprise that the internal rotators of the arm at the shoulder become dominant. You may well get years out of a healthy young shoulder without feeling a thing. But the resulting impingement syndrome affects so many climbers. If you'd rather prevent it, it's not hard to do a little work to keep the shoulder joint working well. And if you are already suffering, you may be able to reverse it quite quickly, unless you've really tried to ignore it for too long!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbysBRk3TFc/VNQD8ZE_NWI/AAAAAAAADvU/jokrDavCiKw/s1600/IMG_4711+-+Version+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbysBRk3TFc/VNQD8ZE_NWI/AAAAAAAADvU/jokrDavCiKw/s1600/IMG_4711+-+Version+2.jpg)
Maintaining awareness of the foot during hand movements is a core skill in climbing injury awareness. Slipping feet are a important cause of many finger and shoulder injuries. Do your feet slip too often? Do you know what to do when they do slip? Correct your climbing technique and you can push your body a lot harder before it starts to complain.
Finally, there is the psychological challenge of injuries which is hugely underestimated by both climbers and their friends and families. In sections 1 and 5 of the book, I present the idea that we should see the injuries we suffer as a crucial message that something must change in our way of approaching climbing. By seeing the injury as an opportunity to go back to basics, to understand what must change and make that change, we can not only improve our climbing, but enjoy the process rather than endure it.
I hope the book will help many climbers prevent their future injuries or overcome existing ones. You'll find the book in our shop here (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html), dispatching worldwide.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/LwPKBhhiibM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Let's get a climbing centre in Fort William! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZGZBabWp35Y/lets-get-climbing-centre-in-fort-william.html)
11 February 2015, 8:23 pm
Three Wise Monkeys Climbing crowd funding film (http://vimeo.com/116595769) from Three Wise Monkeys Climbing (http://vimeo.com/user32387818) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Check out the video we made above for Three Wise Monkeys Climbing (https://www.facebook.com/threewisemonkeysclimbing), who have just launched a crowdfunding campaign (http://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/three-wise-monkeys-climbing/) to open a climbing centre in Fort William.
The video says it all really, but it’s a simple pitch - all of use who live in the area or visit it for climbing would love a high quality climbing facility in Fort William. They need to raise £40,000 in 28 days. The climbing scene here is pretty small, so don’t leave it to someone else. Go and make your pledge here (http://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/three-wise-monkeys-climbing/), and I’ll see you in the wall in the summer.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZGZBabWp35Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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All go (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PIjlkYyyldo/all-go.html)
19 February 2015, 2:24 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jXre8K45COA/VOXcF8X5tSI/AAAAAAAADv0/NOvW2nMbZdM/s1600/IMG_0468.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jXre8K45COA/VOXcF8X5tSI/AAAAAAAADv0/NOvW2nMbZdM/s1600/IMG_0468.jpg)
Starting up Feeding Frenzy VI,7 on Ben Nevis last week
February is always all go in Lochaber. First of all, we have been sending out a lot of copies of Make or Break (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html). Thanks to everyone who’s ordered it and I hope it is starting to help you with your climbing and injury rehab decisions already. We’ve had a few recurring questions about it:
‘Is it better [for us] to order it directly from our site, or Amazon?’
Yes it’s better to get it direct from us (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html) than the mighty Amazon. We are shipping them all over the world, every day. Plus, you get a signed copy this way!
‘Are we releasing an ebook/kindle version?’
No plans to at the moment, although we might do it sometime.
Thanks for everyone’s great feedback on the book so far. It means a lot.
In between dealing with book related things, I’ve been in my wall training a lot and rebuilding fitness. I love my wall! It’s so great to finally be in there regularly, just pulling on holds and enjoying it. I’ve also been out on the ice which has been in present in large quantities on the Scottish mountains recently.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dphoYdyQIaI/VOXjoWZMhpI/AAAAAAAADwM/ZImeZ0_Cmcs/s1600/transition1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dphoYdyQIaI/VOXjoWZMhpI/AAAAAAAADwM/ZImeZ0_Cmcs/s1600/transition1.jpg)
On the first ascent of Transition VI,7 Ben Udlaidh. Photo: Chris Prescott/Hot Aches Productions
Firstly I visited Ben Udlaidh with Natalie. It’s somewhere I used to go a lot as a youngster and have done several new routes there, most of which are still kind of unknown since the guidebook is so out of date. The day we visited it was just starting to warm up and some pieces of ice were starting to fall off. So we had to grab some of the action quickly before it got a little dangerous. We climbed a lovely unclimbed steep icicle on the lower tier, with some steep mixed pulls at the bottom to gain the ice. Most folk go to Udlaidh for the pure ice lines, but the routes with a little mixed ground are really good fun and rather underrated.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lelc0QEdUKQ/VOXjnXg7GXI/AAAAAAAADwE/80VR6ii3cuI/s1600/transition2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lelc0QEdUKQ/VOXjnXg7GXI/AAAAAAAADwE/80VR6ii3cuI/s1600/transition2.jpg)
Natalie enjoying an ice cave rest mid way up Transition VI,7 Ben Udlaidh
Then I had a few days on the Ben. A couple of these were abortive. One day we rocked up at the foot of a Neil Gresham route Feeding Frenzy (VI,7) which takes a wild hanging icicle left of Mega Route X. It was in great condition and the most attractive piece of ice in the coire. I climbed a nice entry pitch and belayed below the icicle. I was just bringing Kev up when we heard a long series of blood-curdling screams in the distance, possibly across on Tower Ridge. They were horrible to listen to and carried on for several minutes. We felt something extremely bad must have happened and felt the best thing to do would be to go and see if we could help. I see online that at least two other teams on other routes did the same. But noone yet found the source of the screams. It was still the right thing to do to bail off our route, just in case we could have assisted. But it left us with unfinished business.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3rs87Xb8dE/VOXb-amcpcI/AAAAAAAADvs/KSYfmSBPnhg/s1600/IMG_0491.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3rs87Xb8dE/VOXb-amcpcI/AAAAAAAADvs/KSYfmSBPnhg/s1600/IMG_0491.jpg)
Approaching the icicle on Feeding Frenzy, VI,7 Ben Nevis
So we returned a couple of days later. I climbed up behind the icicle and at first tried to break a hole through the curtain to access the front face. It seemed pretty solid so I stepped onto it and climbed right around the whole thing and up the right edge of it. It was a fantastic trip and I see it got at least one further ascent from Nick Bullock and Tim Neill some days later. Kev wasn’t able to manage some of the cross through moves on the traverse to the ice with his prosthetic ice tool, so I had an exciting abseil down it to retrieve my gear from the back of the curtain.
Over the last day or two the weather has been poor, so it’s back to training. I’m also at the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) each night over the next few nights. We went to the opening night last night which was brilliant. We premiered our film about the geological and botanical investigations on the north face of the Ben last summer and listened to several great speakers and musicians in a packed hall. There are still some tickets for the remaining nights, so do snap one up if you can make it. We will be in the exhibition hall each night with climbing books and films, and I’m speaking about Make or Break in the Book Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/book/) line up on Saturday afternoon. See you there! Below is the showreel we put together for the festival to give you an idea of the footage in some of this year’s films.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PIjlkYyyldo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Body heat (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vBrjGF_Oyuc/body-heat.html)
25 February 2015, 10:48 pm
Sunday boarding (https://vimeo.com/120416572) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Having come out of the other side of my massive book project and starting to climb regularly again, I have been thinking a lot about the nature of my need to climb and what I take from the activity. I’m aware that for some readers these comments may sound ridiculous, but they are my feelings and so you can take them or leave them - they simply are what they are.
My deprivation from climbing over the past months and years during this project has been relative. I have still climbed more metres of rock and ice than many people have the chance to and I am grateful for that. I’m also aware that the book project has had still greater disruption for my family. This post is not a moan. I understand that everyone has choices to make in their life which have a big mix of positive and negative consequences and then live with them. Nonetheless, whether it seems self-indulgent or not, the relative lack of climbing over the period had a huge effect on me. A negative effect.
Wanting to make the most of each and every possible opportunity in life can be both an advantage and a big problem. Being drawn in several different directions at once is destructive for success at most things that require work and application. I could write posts about all these directions, but in this I’m just writing about the climbing aspect.
Several years ago a climbing journalist interviewed me soon after I climbed Rhapsody at Dumbarton Rock. I remember him commenting after the interview that he still wasn’t really clear why I liked climbing so much. I think he was not seeing the wood for the trees. I don’t climb to notch up first ascents, to complete hard projects, or to be better than anyone else. Spending my time doing these things is the means, not the end. The end is simply the climbing. The hard projects, training and the pushing yourself simply intensifies the experience. If I’ve pushed myself harder than someone else, it’s simply because I enjoy the climbing that much.
So this need to climb is not something that has to be linked to achievements or grades etc. They merely assist in getting the most out of the climbing. In trying to find an analogy for this basic need to climb, I felt it was similar to the need to have the correct body heat. Imagine you were deprived of the heating or clothing to stay warm. You can still function in your activities of daily life, even enjoy good things. But it is just harder to enjoy them while you shiver. If exposed to this over time, you might even adapt to this state to an extent. The discomfort may fade to a dull hue, no longer at the front of your mind. But it is far from eliminated. At the extremes of deprivation, the discomfort would be strong enough to cancel out satisfaction from meeting any other basic needs or comforts.
Over the past three weeks I have been building back up my basic strength and fitness in my climbing wall. I have found that even when feeling rusty in my movements and weak on the small holds, climbing makes me feel that I can deal with the all the other problems in life. But as I’ve got stronger and fitter, I’ve noticed the effect is stronger. This is more than it being nice to be able to climb things I couldn’t before. The actual climbing feels better. More agility, control and confidence, as well as strength.
The book project has been a reminder that since I’m lucky enough to have opportunities to climb, I should take them wherever possible, not just for the direct enjoyment, but for the effects in all parts of life. It's also reminded me to take the time to train and build up to a good performance.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vBrjGF_Oyuc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The "blood curdling screams" mentioned by Dave have caused quite a stir!
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-31550374 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-31550374)
http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?n=609268 (http://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?n=609268)
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Red Dragon (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bwmFlEhqxRU/red-dragon.html)
3 March 2015, 1:45 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HeC_6WuJGPo/VPW04iX5tqI/AAAAAAAADxY/FTKk-CSodwY/s1600/P1020818.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HeC_6WuJGPo/VPW04iX5tqI/AAAAAAAADxY/FTKk-CSodwY/s1600/P1020818.JPG)
Approaching the crux on the first ascent of Red Dragon VIII,9, Ben Nevis. Photo: Helen Rennard
Helen Rennard and myself were getting a bit fed up with waiting for a break in the stormy weather on the mountains, so we went up Ben Nevis on a blustery morning. There had been a very brief overnight thaw which we hoped would firm up the dangerous approach slopes. But as it got light it appeared to have stripped our possible new route objective. I also fell through a snowbridge on the path and went up to my knees in water. So we sat in the CIC hut for a while drying my boots and figuring out where to go.
We opted for the steep walls right of Echo Wall which have few routes and we thought it might be relatively sheltered from the heavy snow shower rattling in from the west. On the way up Observatory Gully we passed a string of goggled-up climbers descending from their route objectives in the blizzard. They optimistically wished us luck as we hid in our hoods and pressed on.
(http://lochaberblog.sais.gov.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMGP1613.jpg) (http://lochaberblog.sais.gov.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/IMGP1613.jpg)
Helen and myself heading up Observatory Gully towards Echo Wall (in cloud). Photo: Blair Fyffe
At the foot of the wall there was relative shelter and and we uncoiled the ropes below an overhanging crack feature soaring up the walls above. Helen had been here previously, but her partner had got very pumped and fallen from the first few metres, with a projected grade of 9 for this section.
I managed to get over this first overhanging section without taking too much time, mainly because I didn’t want to hang about with poor gear in the extremely verglassed crack. On the following section I carried on with care, in the hope I’d get at least one solid runner, but I couldn't seem to get that. Eventually I arrived at an uncomfortable overhung slot below a very steep bulge in the crack above. I spent a very long time here.
I fiddled for ages, going up and down with some fear, trying in vain to get a good runner. Eventually, two very good hooks in the overhang persuaded me to move higher and I got a Spectre in. After a retreat to the slot, this runner provided the security to push a bit higher. A second Spectre went in and I now had enough protection to probe upwards with more commitment. Unfortunately I was by now getting pretty tired and was aware that Helen had been suffering the blizzard for some time without moving. She must have been freezing. On the other hand, I’d put in a fair bit of work and seemed to be only a few moves away from unlocking the pitch. So I committed upwards with a few heart pumping moments and burning forearms to an uncomfortable rest standing on one foot on the lip of the overhang.
I limped onwards to the belay, rather mentally exhausted and went through some savage hot aches before constructing a belay. Helen did a fine job of following the pitch from what must have been a very cold start. Understandably, she asked if I would lead on. The main problem on the final pitch was warming my freezing hands. It seems to me that your brain must shut out the memory of how bad hot aches can be. After descending Tower Ridge, we still had to don the goggles to walk down the Allt a Mhuillin!
We thought it would only be VIII,9 if the crack wasn't verglassed and would accept cams. It was a fine winter adventure - it does sometime pay off nicely if you press on through all the hurdles that Ben Nevis throws at you. But only with your wits about you at all times.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bwmFlEhqxRU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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High Pressure Crack (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/jzGhcgRFNDU/high-pressure-crack.html)
6 March 2015, 11:00 am
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Starting up pitch 3 of High Pressure Crack VIII,9 Ben Nevis. Photo: Masa Sakano
Returning from a trip to Manchester to speak and coach climbers at the climbing centre, it seemed there were not many breaks in the constant snow storms. But a ridge of high pressure was forecast for Wednesday and Masa Sakano agreed to venture onto the Ben with me. The avalanche forecast was ‘high’ and we’d heard of avalanche incidents the day before. So I thought of an unclimbed overhanging wall on the Douglas Boulder, which can be accessed safely in avalanche conditions so long as you make the descent by abseil.
Last year myself, Helen Rennard and Harry Holmes repeated Nick Bullock and Matt Heliker’s VII,8 ‘Rutless’ here. The crux pitch climbs the first few metres of a soaring overhanging crack and headwall, but quickly scuttles left along ledges and escapes via a corner. Something going right up that wall would be mega!
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Approaching the hardest climbing on pitch 3, and starting to feel the pump. Photo: Masa Sakano
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Masa led up the icy chimney of Gutless to the ledge below the wall. Watching him, I could see the headwall on the overhanging 3rd pitch. It looked like the crack went diagonally left across a smooth wall covered in a layer of ice and I worried a bit about how I might protect it if I could get there, although I figured the ice might be useful.
When I followed to the ledge, I launched up the overhanging wall without any hesitation so as to get worried. Although the crack was too icy to take more than a couple of cams, good wires spurred on my progress and I pressed on, getting gradually more pumped. Above the lip of the overhang I made a couple of committing pulls to a rest. I was struggling a bit to get gear. Everything was choked in ice. I dug out a big hex placement behind a couple of loose blocks. It was wobbly, so I packed the loose blocks back on top of it with lots of snow to keep it where it was.
The final part of the pitch up the headwall was fantastic on steep cracks on the exposed headwall. The best bit however, was remembering that I’d packed some sweets in the pocket of my Gore-Tex jacket for the belay. Masa led a 62 metre pitch on easier terrain to the top of the Douglas boulder and we headed down into gathering black clouds and eventually rain - it looks like winter is gone for a little while in Scotland.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X0kXJtYV4uQ/VPhG8jFMBAI/AAAAAAAADxs/3-3-lUhU04U/s1600/IMG_0503.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X0kXJtYV4uQ/VPhG8jFMBAI/AAAAAAAADxs/3-3-lUhU04U/s1600/IMG_0503.jpg)
Masa following pitch 1
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q7SOptFIG-M/VPhHb3vubMI/AAAAAAAADyM/3J7U7ujSGmE/s1600/IMG_0506.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q7SOptFIG-M/VPhHb3vubMI/AAAAAAAADyM/3J7U7ujSGmE/s1600/IMG_0506.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRa5iYdSfZQ/VPhHVfDIwLI/AAAAAAAADyE/Bk-uMG-IaLY/s1600/IMG_0511.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PRa5iYdSfZQ/VPhHVfDIwLI/AAAAAAAADyE/Bk-uMG-IaLY/s1600/IMG_0511.jpg)
Masa in the fun chimney of Gutless.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MejYSsRjZuo/VPhHrTKVZBI/AAAAAAAADyc/kyDlFUnRaWM/s1600/IMG_0531.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MejYSsRjZuo/VPhHrTKVZBI/AAAAAAAADyc/kyDlFUnRaWM/s1600/IMG_0531.jpg)
Masa heading off on the long final pitch
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/jzGhcgRFNDU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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After the rain (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/lsEZzSlgELc/after-rain.html)
8 March 2015, 9:45 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eg-hovmQn94/VPzBGSibhjI/AAAAAAAADzE/lGMqmtSWPX0/s1600/IMG_0542.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eg-hovmQn94/VPzBGSibhjI/AAAAAAAADzE/lGMqmtSWPX0/s1600/IMG_0542.jpg)
Never tire of this outlook back towards the Glenfinnan hills
Today I had a great day in the Arisaig Cave which was completely bone dry despite the 20cm of rain which has doused Lochaber over the past three days. What a great venue it is. Last year I didn’t do much bouldering really, I spent most of the time on Dolomitic big walls and lately I’ve been getting back into mixed climbing a bit.
Today was a nice reminder just how great it is - so relaxing to head off late morning and feel warm March sunshine in your face as you stroll across a deserted beach to the cave to work on a nice project.
I haven’t been to the cave for not far off two years. Last time I was there I managed, just, to do all the moves on the last remaining big straight up project. It might be as hard as 8B and a great piece of technical and burly climbing up a big diagonal flange. Today I re-worked it and did the moves again. Crucially, I got a good sequence dialled for the upper half of the problem and linked the last 5 moves to the top. I noticed myself getting tired on it quite quickly because of the very physical moves with compression and undercutting. I’ll definitely be back on this soon.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zdnoYUwnUrY/VPzA43-UpaI/AAAAAAAADy0/P2WUxVnUA00/s1600/IMG_0540.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zdnoYUwnUrY/VPzA43-UpaI/AAAAAAAADy0/P2WUxVnUA00/s1600/IMG_0540.jpg)
The flange project. training motivation. It’s definitely possible for me!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ciky7ClogZw/VPzBAntw-7I/AAAAAAAADy8/SyksBmYkgMc/s1600/IMG_0539.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ciky7ClogZw/VPzBAntw-7I/AAAAAAAADy8/SyksBmYkgMc/s1600/IMG_0539.jpg)
My tick marks from two years ago still there like it was yesterday. Can’t believe how rainproof the cave is. The ultimate boulder venue really!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/lsEZzSlgELc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Tripod (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/GluvqwE4B5g/tripod.html)
17 March 2015, 9:52 pm
(https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10916311_10153109538648818_3284545442581719044_o.jpg) (https://scontent-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/10916311_10153109538648818_3284545442581719044_o.jpg)
Leading the steep crack at the start of Tripod VII,7 on Ben Nevis. Photo Helen Rennard.
The walls on the left side of Tower Ridge is a part of Ben Nevis I’ve visited quite a lot over the years and really like. Obviously, my interest in this area started with Echo Wall some years ago. Since then I’ve done a couple of winter routes around here too. In winter it can provide good shelter from a westerly storm and also remains in condition for mixed quite late in the season. The other week Helen and myself climbed Red Dragon on the wall right of Echo Wall. On Saturday we needed to go higher to find good conditions and walked up to the wall up and left of Echo Wall, near Tower Scoop.
The other year we did a good new VII,8 here which I called Angry Chair. The name came from a huge detached block which I sat and belayed on, looking for a way to finish the route with overhanging blankness above. It reminded me of the song Angry Chair by a band I grew up listening to called Alice in Chains. The song starts:
“Sitting on the Angry Chair. Angry Walls that steal the air...”
Angry Chair followed the first pitch of Clefthanger (summer HVS, winter VI,6) before heading up a groove on the right. On Saturday I started up a steep crack just left of this which would lead into the iced up upper section of Clefthanger. The crack looked VI,6 from below, but turned out to be a good VII,7 with fiddly gear and poor footholds for quite a long way. It was excellent though and I continued all the way to the top in one 68m pitch.
I thought it might be nice to keep going with the Alice in Chains theme for names. I have always liked the grim lyrics and style and so we could call this one Tripod, after their rather darkly illustrated album. It kind of feels relevant to how I'm going to be climbing for the coming couple of months! The area right of Tower Scoop now has 4 good mixed routes between VI and VIII. Tripod starts up the short flow of ice at the base, into the cracks and then the big left leaning ice ramps.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf3oKZIkRGk/VQh1PCufAEI/AAAAAAAADzc/ZuGhauJD3BM/s1600/IMG_0713.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Rf3oKZIkRGk/VQh1PCufAEI/AAAAAAAADzc/ZuGhauJD3BM/s1600/IMG_0713.jpg)
Helen finishing the pitch on great ice.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QynLqFJNdB0/VQh1RBP9tVI/AAAAAAAADzk/eCDdreUeMEs/s1600/IMG_0707.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QynLqFJNdB0/VQh1RBP9tVI/AAAAAAAADzk/eCDdreUeMEs/s1600/IMG_0707.jpg)
Tripod starts up the short flow of ice at the base, into the cracks and then the big left leaning ice ramps.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/GluvqwE4B5g)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Pink Panther (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/XnMmeUJHnq8/pink-panther.html)
19 March 2015, 11:02 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NUtJEPD8d0k/VQqqqS3gh2I/AAAAAAAAD0A/HJwyKFn4_Gk/s1600/cp5d.Dave_PinkPanther(9313).jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NUtJEPD8d0k/VQqqqS3gh2I/AAAAAAAAD0A/HJwyKFn4_Gk/s1600/cp5d.Dave_PinkPanther(9313).jpg)
On Pink Panther VI,6 Ben Nevis. Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches
The day after doing Tripod I was heading back up the Allt a Mhuillin with Natalie Berry, intent on making the most of the fine ice conditions. We knew most folk would head for the Indicator Wall area, so instead we headed to the much quieter but almost as high up area above Raeburn’s Easy Route, just right of the Great Tower. We could see that the steep ice pillar of Pink Panther was looking fat and slogged up the neve to a spacious belay spot in the cave behind the icicle. Meanwhile, Paul Diffley abseiled in from the top to film us. The weather was beautiful and it was quite social chatting to Paul as I led up the crux pitch, which was actually quite easy in the current conditions.
Natalie led through up the easy snow to the top and we were rewarded with lovely sunshine and views on top. This was Ben Nevis at its most friendly and it was a nice relaxing day in contrast to the challenging new routing the day before.
That great weekend will be my last of the winter season. It’s all change for me now, with 6 weeks of solid training for the rock season. More on that shortly.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2zvWlMq4eFA/VQqqqBwFrbI/AAAAAAAADz8/YexXH5sObPQ/s1600/cp6d.PinkPanther_Dave(8262).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2zvWlMq4eFA/VQqqqBwFrbI/AAAAAAAADz8/YexXH5sObPQ/s1600/cp6d.PinkPanther_Dave(8262).jpg)
We were accompanied by Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott from Hot Aches, who took some of these nice photos.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-StU8k6YGB0E/VQqqps2O73I/AAAAAAAADz4/7Eg5jhY0pqA/s1600/cp6d.Nat_CoireNaCiste(8205).jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-StU8k6YGB0E/VQqqps2O73I/AAAAAAAADz4/7Eg5jhY0pqA/s1600/cp6d.Nat_CoireNaCiste(8205).jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4WKzMHGmSss/VQqqzf2i1zI/AAAAAAAAD0Y/YbTRx705zv8/s1600/IMG_0727.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4WKzMHGmSss/VQqqzf2i1zI/AAAAAAAAD0Y/YbTRx705zv8/s1600/IMG_0727.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nrJdOomO-1E/VQqq1CdKMAI/AAAAAAAAD0g/Z7NmJBFkAmc/s1600/IMG_0754.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nrJdOomO-1E/VQqq1CdKMAI/AAAAAAAAD0g/Z7NmJBFkAmc/s1600/IMG_0754.jpg)
Aye it wasn’t a bad afternoon on the plateau
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PhVc_NzmQuU/VQqqwwi4kgI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/EhMs_d_cM_I/s1600/IMG_0758.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PhVc_NzmQuU/VQqqwwi4kgI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/EhMs_d_cM_I/s1600/IMG_0758.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yThIx4phtFo/VQqq2sNyv8I/AAAAAAAAD0o/fmHSceVF8fU/s1600/IMG_0763.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yThIx4phtFo/VQqq2sNyv8I/AAAAAAAAD0o/fmHSceVF8fU/s1600/IMG_0763.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/XnMmeUJHnq8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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It's foot-off time (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/mkCkzvAWdZk/its-foot-off-time.html)
20 March 2015, 6:33 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72RPjBmCZcQ/VQxl09pqyZI/AAAAAAAAD08/YatP2j0vtgo/s1600/rehab1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-72RPjBmCZcQ/VQxl09pqyZI/AAAAAAAAD08/YatP2j0vtgo/s1600/rehab1.jpg)
Post surgery day 2. Anaesthetic drip disconnected, time for the training to start again.
I’ve been getting really motivated for training lately. Which is just as well, because I’m about to have a 6 week solid block of it during the spring. The reason? Ankle surgery.
Yes, more ankle surgery. Readers of this blog will know that I’ve had surgery on both ankles in the past two years. In both cases this was for damage to the edge of the cartilage surface of my ankle joints. By far the worst injury was happened in this accident when I was lowered off the end of a rope. The microfracture surgery I had did work to an extent, but the nature of doing tons of walking on mountains has meant the lesion, although small, has not remained stable and has got a little worse. Knowing what I know now, I also suspect that some of the advice I was given for the post operative period was, well, sub standard and could well have contributed to it not working as well as it could have.
So I’ve tried to put my money where my mouth is and follow my own advice in my book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html), seeking the opinion of the best ankle surgeons in the world to see if there was anything else that could be done to protect my ankles from getting any worse. And there is. After speaking to surgeons based in Cambridge, Malaysia, Newcastle and then Munich, I’ve established that a newly developed procedure has a good probability of making the ankle feel better and protecting its health in the longer term.
All of this has taken 6 months to organise and considerable research and legwork on my part, not to mention working to meet the costs of the treatment. But now I approach the start line and I am in Munich and had my surgery yesterday. It all seemed to go fine and I feel ready to hit the fingerboard today. Nothing is certain in sports medicine and I know there is always a chance it won’t make much difference. But I still feel I ought to do the best I can now to keep myself well serviced so I am still in good form in the years and decades to come.
The sacrifice in the short term is that I have to do foot-off bouldering only for 6 weeks. Not too much of a sacrifice really. Foot off bouldering has always helped me feel really strong. So now I have a chance to have a good uninterrupted spell of it. During the recovery from my last surgeries, I thought it was good to place my focus onto writing my book. This time, I will have ample time to complete organised daily training as well as draw dinosaurs with Freida. It is kind of ridiculous that it takes leg surgery to make me train properly, but I just like going climbing too much. So let's see what I can do with this opportunity.
As I’m sure you can tell, I’ve set out a plan to make this a positive step in both the short and long term. There is really no reason why I shouldn’t be stronger and fitter for my rock projects by the start of May than I would otherwise be if I’d just been going out winter and rock climbing based on the weather.
The process of organising this treatment was at times demoralising. Having actually arrived at the treatment stage feels like I’ve already come through a tough challenge in many areas. Just trying to get my MRI scans from the NHS was a bureaucratic shambles. Then even in the private sector things although good, were still frustratingly slow. The hardest part however has been finding sources of encouragement.
While I’m recovering I’ll be training 7 days a week on my board, fingerboard, campus board, rings, floor exercises, One foot cycling, swimming, general flexibility work, oh and the surgery rehab work itself! Not sure how I’ll fit it all in. But I’m pretty sure I’ll be in good shape after it. At least I start from a reasonable base of built up fitness. It will be interesting to see if the problems in the video below are no longer hard for me in a couple of months time. One way to find out...
Training 24 Feb 2015 (https://vimeo.com/121533897) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/mkCkzvAWdZk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Edited.
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Zeki Basan (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/FIeruAXZep4/zeki-basan.html)
29 March 2015, 10:23 pm
Zeki Basan (https://vimeo.com/122981201) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a short film we made about Zeki Basan, a great young character from over in the Gorms. Zeki won the Scottish youth award for mountain culture at this year’s Fort William Mountain Festival. He is the inaugural winner of the youth award and joins a formidable list of winners of the 'adult' award; Hamish McInnes, Jimmy Marshall, Richard Else, Myrtle Simpson, Ian 'Spike' Sykes, Andy Nisbet and Robin Campbell. We also made the film about Robin Campbell for his award this year and I'll post that up as soon as it's live.
I’m certainly used to meeting enthusiastic and smart young folk involved in all manner of mountain sports, but it was great to learn more about Zeki’s passion for bushcraft when we travelled over to speak to him for this film.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/FIeruAXZep4)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Project Fear film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AY_1xWlAJI8/project-fear-film.html)
30 March 2015, 8:29 pm
Here is the Project Fear film about my new route on Cima Ovest last September. Truth be told, I was incredibly lucky that myself and Alan Cassidy were able to get the route climbed given the very poor weather in the Dolomites last season. Of course, to a certain extent we made our own luck as you see in the film, my cleaning and preparing the route through the poor weather rather than just sitting waiting.
However, the two sunny days we had were a crucial ingredient and I was desperate to make them count. I’m sure you’ll understand that my favourite part of the film are the parts playing with Freida at home in Glen Nevis. But this it is also a great memory of the adventures on that massive roof. It gets me psyched for summer's big wall expedition will be rather bigger in scale.
A special thanks to Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/) for supporting our trip and the film idea, Karl for exploring the roof with me and dodging the blocks I knocked off, Alan for coming with me on the route and the Coldhouse (http://coldhousecollective.com/) guys for being great craic and teaching me a lot.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AY_1xWlAJI8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Speaking in Ambleside on Friday (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9_SDdP7gZxc/speaking-in-ambleside-on-friday.html)
14 April 2015, 10:45 am
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqnO2bjBRhk/VSzhf3aRf5I/AAAAAAAAD1Q/VL-PGkLrQSo/s1600/davem.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qqnO2bjBRhk/VSzhf3aRf5I/AAAAAAAAD1Q/VL-PGkLrQSo/s1600/davem.jpg)
Photo: Paul Diffley/Hot Aches Productions
I'm speaking in Ambleside on Friday with The Climber's Shop (http://www.climbers-shop.com/10904525/products/lecture-ticket---dave-macleod.aspx) and Mountain Equipment (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/), 7.30pm at the University of Cumbria Ambleside campus. All the details and tickets are here (http://www.climbers-shop.com/10904525/products/lecture-ticket---dave-macleod.aspx). Do come along - they mention refreshments on the climber shop page and the proceeds are being split between Langdale/Ambleside mountain rescue and Community Action Nepal. I'll be around at the Climber's Shop in Ambleside during the afternoon from around 2pm if you fancy dropping in for a chat.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/9_SDdP7gZxc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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6 weeks later (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xrQ_SY5P_2k/6-weeks-later.html)
25 May 2015, 10:11 am
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ABPPBcLEFlE/VWLirxk02MI/AAAAAAAAD2A/xEHCYRHiCkE/s640/camping+meagaidh.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ABPPBcLEFlE/VWLirxk02MI/AAAAAAAAD2A/xEHCYRHiCkE/s1600/camping+meagaidh.jpg)
Camping at Creag Meagaidh with Freida a couple of weeks ago. One of the highlights of the last couple of months.
When I last wrote on my blog I was not long out of ankle surgery and feeling decidedly delicate. But I felt ok - I had experience on my side and was well prepared with a plan of action for the recovery period, mostly consisting of hanging from small holds without my feet.
6 weeks later some things have changed and some have not. I am still feeling rather delicate, although my ankle has made steady progress. I am beginning to use it gently on my steep board and very close to walking without my crutches. But not quite there. My fingers have definitely become a little stronger and will hopefully get stronger still by the time I am able to climb a piece of real rock again.
There are still various things on my ‘stuff to do while out of action’ list that are undone. But I suppose I have done the most important ones.
Despite the preparedness, I have felt the process mentally tough as ever. Perhaps some readers might be curious as to how I would live out my own advice in part 5 of my book Make or Break (http://davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html), where I propose a mindset and tactics to turn the mental challenge of a rehabilitation period into a positive experience. In that chapter I begin by reiterating that noone should underestimate how hard an injury rehab will hit them, if they are truly dependent on sport and exercise for their well being. Then I go on to lay out how to use the period to increase that well being, at least in the long term. These two messages go hand in hand. Yes it can be positive if you do everything right, but that doesn’t make it easier. You still have to go through it, not around it.
And so to be plain, I have felt the fear and the depression, just as I did after my previous surgeries. Fear that I won’t recover and depression from withdrawal from the places and experiences that I love so much. My approach to dealing with this is very much in The Stoics (http://99u.com/articles/24401/a-makers-guidebook-9-stoic-principles-to-nurture-your-life-and-work) school of dealing with challenges: to face them head on rather than ignore them with positive thinking. In my view, this is the only effective way to deal with significant worries or problems. Aside from that, I find that if I think too much about what I plan to do after I can walk and climb again, it gets harder to remain patient and go through my daily routine.
Pulling on small holds on my wall has or course been a brilliant catalyst for getting through the period. I have thoroughly attacked the campus board, fingerboard and foot-off problems. I wouldn't say I’m the strongest I’ve ever been. But not far off it. Such a short time isn’t even nearly enough to make such an impact anyway. I’ve found that doing one foot circuits have been the most challenging simply because they are kind of unpleasant to do. But it’s all relative - They are not pretty compared to normal climbing, but I still love doing them compared to doing nothing! I also spent about a week resetting the whole board and making and adding more holds.
I still have a week before I check in with my surgeon and talk about dropping the crutches and putting my rock shoes on again. And even once I do, I still need to make time to ease into climbing. So there is still time to work a bit more on my full crimp strength and build a little more endurance before I return to the ROCK!
One of the things I've done over the past three weeks is learn to fly our new drone, or try to at least. I'm still pretty bad at it, but it's good to learn something new. It has also allowed me to go outside while I'm on crutches, if not so far from the car. Below you can see some of my practice, filming my brother Alan MacLeod practising his pipes in Glen Roy and Glen Nevis before my sister's wedding last weekend.
Alan MacLeod piping (https://vimeo.com/128740811) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xrQ_SY5P_2k)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Robin Campbell film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hE59pHDODgE/robin-campbell-film.html)
29 May 2015, 1:37 pm
Here is a wee film we put together about Robin Campbell for this year’s Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/). As well as Robin himself, it also features Jimmy Marshall, Paul Brian and Ken Crocket (thanks for joining in the singing Ken!).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/hE59pHDODgE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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davemacleod.com shop summer sale (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Qp8iQeLZNBk/davemacleodcom-shop-summer-sale.html)
4 June 2015, 12:55 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/LonghopeDVD.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)In a first for the davemacleod.com shop (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html), we are doing a summer sale with healthy discounts of 50-75% on lots of our climbing DVDs and clothing. Some examples:
Echo Wall (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall.html) and Longhope (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/thelonghope.html) DVDs now £5. The BBC Great Climb (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/greatclimb.html) on Sron Ulladale (first ascent of The Usual Suspects E9 7a with Tim Emmett) now £10. The Triple 5 DVD (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/triple5.html) (5 first ascents between E5 and E8 on 5 Hebridean Islands in 5 days) now £10. Plus 50% discounts on some of our Mountain Equipment clothing (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html#clothing).
Dispatching worldwide as always.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Qp8iQeLZNBk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Campus notes (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7AQhJgzaE9c/campus-notes.html)
4 June 2015, 8:00 pm
Dave MacLeod systemise campusing and 1-4-7 campus board (https://vimeo.com/129800234) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
During my surgery rehab I have done a LOT of climbing without my feet. Unsurprisingly I have got a little stronger. I have been training more or less every day for 2-4 hours. Around half the work has been fingerboard and campusboard workouts. I’ve also done some foot-off bouldering on both small and big holds.
Another big chunk of the time has been endurance circuits of around 30 moves, performed with one foot. I started off trying to do these foot-off, but the intensity was a bit high, so I’ve settled for one foot on but keeping my trainers on. I find that if I put on the rockshoe it feels too much like normal climbing and it torments me that I can't use the other foot. It will be interesting to see the effects of this training. On one hand, it’s still fairly ‘ugly’ climbing on one foot and therefore not great for improving your efficiency. On the other hand, sustained endurance terrain on powerful juggy terrain is a weakness for me, so it may have been useful. I’ll find out in due course.
The final big chunk of my time has been taken up with all the peripheral stuff that is A) not actually that peripheral, and B) normally gets missed. I’ve really improved many aspects of my core strength and arm strength and completed what rehab exercises I was able to do before getting to the full weightbearing stage.
I’ve been starting to use my foot progressively more on the board over the past few weeks now and getting pretty close to my resumption of outdoor climbing. I want to make a solid start to normal climbing, so I'm leaving it until I'm sure I can do that. As this gets close, yesterday I had a nice little milestone of getting 1-4-7 on my campusboard (small Metolius wood grips rungs, 22cm spaced).
I have done almost no campusing for years now, Partly because the climbing walls I had access to when I moved away from Glasgow in 2007 didn’t have any, and then from 2008 after my elbows started to complain and I just stuck to climbing only.
When I built my new climbing wall last spring I included a campus board and used the small Metolius rungs which are a fair bit harder than the old S7 small rungs in the Glasgow Climbing Centre board I used to train on. I could do 1-5-8 on that one and 1-4-7 pretty easily. I stayed away from the new campus board last year while I built a level of resistance back up after the previous year without a board to train on while I was in the process of moving house.
Right after my surgery, at the end of March, I started to play on it gently at first, and progressively doing a little more each week. A couple of times I felt I’d overdone it and left it again for at least 5 days. In those early weeks, I couldn’t get near 1-4-7. So to be able to do it now is a clear strength gain. You don’t get too many of those after 20 years climbing!
My experience of really dedicated spells of fingerboard or similar organised strength training is that apart from the initial few weeks of rapid gains, the gains you make are so small they can be hard to notice, especially if you are fit enough to train every day and so not coming to the board in a fully rested state. The time you notice it is generally months down the line, when you have had time to go and integrate those new strength gains into your technique on the rock.
So bring on the projects, the time is just around the corner!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7AQhJgzaE9c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing begins (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Ghm10AJ1U60/climbing-begins.html)
21 June 2015, 12:46 pm
(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/t31.0-8/11537268_10152505235852168_6301796644173027817_o.jpg) (https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/t31.0-8/11537268_10152505235852168_6301796644173027817_o.jpg)
Enjoying the chilled out finish of Austerity Lite (E6 6b) on the first ascent, Financial Sector, Neist Point, Isle of Skye. Photo: Chris Prescott/Hot Aches Productions
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tErINKvrtTY/VYaelVAxc-I/AAAAAAAAD2s/IbesKUEzowE/s640/neist+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tErINKvrtTY/VYaelVAxc-I/AAAAAAAAD2s/IbesKUEzowE/s1600/neist+2.jpg)
First post surgery route. Just a 6b at Brin Rock. It was raining, it was midgy, but it still felt great.
After a spell of climbing on my recovering foot on big footholds (and trainers) on my board, I graduated to putting my rock shoes on again. At first I just stuck to the board but I’ve now been on the rock as well.
Naturally it feels great to be climbing again. I have been noticing the extra strength from all the foot-off training too. There are some challenges still ahead though. My foot is weak and still a little sore on the odd move. Smearing on slabs is still requiring a bit of care, and I’m quite timid on jumps.
My outdoor sessions have only been the last week and so far I’ve been just doing mileage on easier bouldering up to 7B. Yesterday I went to Neist Point on Skye with Natalie. Nat made a fine lead of Piggy Bank (E3 5c), starting off in drizzle, finishing in full on rain. Just as we were packing up to leave, the clouds suddenly cleared and so I gave the arete left of Piggy bank a quick clean and led a new E6 6b, Austerity Lite. I wondered if it would feel kind of weird being on a trad sharp end, pulling on tiny crimps. But it was totally fine.
It is still difficult to hold back and be very gentle in my climbing, especially as I've been training myself to be explosive with the upper body with foot-off climbing for three months. During the next week I'm hoping I'll feel good enough to try something a little harder.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g33O9Fo1HZ0/VYafT61S70I/AAAAAAAAD28/6vv3HxdVZfA/s640/neist+1.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g33O9Fo1HZ0/VYafT61S70I/AAAAAAAAD28/6vv3HxdVZfA/s1600/neist+1.jpg)
Alicia on the Ruthven Boulder
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DEPsqAvFZdc/VYaevq63aoI/AAAAAAAAD20/tJ1x2jKQtFo/s640/neist+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DEPsqAvFZdc/VYaevq63aoI/AAAAAAAAD20/tJ1x2jKQtFo/s1600/neist+3.jpg)
Nat starting off on a damp Piggy Bank E3 5c, Neist Point.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sv3YmQgWWYU/VYafwClYjsI/AAAAAAAAD3E/9P3xGh9vG2Q/s640/potential7.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Sv3YmQgWWYU/VYafwClYjsI/AAAAAAAAD3E/9P3xGh9vG2Q/s1600/potential7.jpg)
Going for the finishing jug on Potential 7, 7B, Torridon Boulders.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Ghm10AJ1U60)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Warming up the climbing a bit more (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/u1Kit-aciwU/warming-up-climbing-bit-more.html)
2 July 2015, 8:24 pm
Transition Film Preview - Toast E7 6c 1st Ascent (https://vimeo.com/132250584) from Hot Aches Productions (https://vimeo.com/hotaches) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Last week I visited Suidhe Biorach on Skye for the first time, on a cold and windy day with Natalie. There are still plenty of great cliffs around the highlands that I’ve never visited, and I always have the hope of discovering good hard new routes to climb on them.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LbakbgojmgU/VZWOHyg6TZI/AAAAAAAAD3w/yHvAbKY4OJU/s640/11334128_10152522353307168_771431313999578191_o.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LbakbgojmgU/VZWOHyg6TZI/AAAAAAAAD3w/yHvAbKY4OJU/s1600/11334128_10152522353307168_771431313999578191_o.jpg)
Climbing the excellent Mother's Pride, E4, Suidhe Biorach. Photos: Chris Prescott/Hot Aches Productions (https://www.facebook.com/hotaches?fref=ts)
That day we climbed Mother’s Pride, the big classic E4. Mega steep, mega jugs. At mid height I couldn’t help noticing the massive horizontal roof to it’s right. At the right end of this, Hovis (E6) crosses the roof at a narrower section with good flakes. But I could also see the odd ripple in the expanse of roof in between.
At the end of the day I abbed down to have a look. At first it looked like there weren’t enough holds, but then I found one section of roof with just enough holds. I had to come straight back for this amazing line!
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p0GHrLRto6w/VZWOFhyQkGI/AAAAAAAAD3k/nPdZ5FCnwc0/s640/11143562_10152522353207168_806591363002676433_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p0GHrLRto6w/VZWOFhyQkGI/AAAAAAAAD3k/nPdZ5FCnwc0/s1600/11143562_10152522353207168_806591363002676433_o.jpg)
A couple of days later we were back. I abbed down again, giving the pitch a clean and checking out the gear and holds. It looked like it would go, but one move to spin round and toe hook the lip while holding a slopey press in the roof looked tough and was hard to try off the rope since the roof was totally horizontal.
It was gently raining although none of it was really bothering the route. So after a bit of hanging around we just abbed down and got on with it. You can see how we got on in the video above. The line was one of the best I’ve done in a long time. A great boulder problem in the roof, followed by a chilled out dangle about on the lip on big jugs and then a fun pumpy headwall with bomber gear. It’s obviously going to take me a little while to build up trad stamina after so long doing pure strength work while I was off my feet. This pitch was basically perfect for me right now.
After we had finished it was mid evening and had been raining most of the day and getting steadily wetter. I asked the team what we should do now. There was a suggestion of going for some food. I was keen as mustard to be out climbing and suggested we go down for another E6. After a brief pause I said “Only joking”. Diff said “Oh good” and we headed off. I wasn’t really joking, I wanted to CLIMB!
This week I’ve been staying in Blair Atholl with my family and trying to get out and run as many laps on Silk Purse down at Dunkeld as I can. That is definitely having some effect on the endurance. Hopefully enough to take another wee step up next week.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-38zkMGl12Yc/VZWOFo7_-6I/AAAAAAAAD3o/edVYZEYeVqQ/s640/10658774_10152515377292168_395162061665278422_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-38zkMGl12Yc/VZWOFo7_-6I/AAAAAAAAD3o/edVYZEYeVqQ/s1600/10658774_10152515377292168_395162061665278422_o.jpg)
The fantastic pumpy headwall on Toast, E7, Suidhe Biorach.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/u1Kit-aciwU)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Another little milestone (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/FMrtm63Mq94/another-little-milestone.html)
7 July 2015, 11:38 am
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c6yOPMEvWJY/VZujPdnRsAI/AAAAAAAAD4k/uKm04_EYoQg/s640/19291580889_f213c1b9f8_k.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c6yOPMEvWJY/VZujPdnRsAI/AAAAAAAAD4k/uKm04_EYoQg/s1600/19291580889_f213c1b9f8_k.jpg)
Waiting for the breeze to come back at the base of Bark at the Moon E8 6c, Glen Clova. Photos by Masa Sakano.
Last week I went for a wee wander about Glen Clova. I hadn’t been there before and checked out a couple of routes I’d heard about. One was Tim Rankin’s E8 6c Bark at the Moon, a great looking line up a big steep prow. I felt it would be a good milestone to build a bit of confidence in my trad climbing. I worked out the moves quickly and was desperate to get back with a partner and give it a try.
So yesterday I returned with Masa to try and do it. Masa started with an impressive tussle with Empire of the Sun and it was great to watch him top out after really going for it. I seconded and didn’t feel I was moving very well. But it was just the strong sunshine I think. We abbed into the start of Bark at the Moon and conditions felt much better.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jhrFUXutOA/VZui82SX4NI/AAAAAAAAD4c/b-ci60fCLYA/s640/19290051028_12769b45b8_k.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jhrFUXutOA/VZui82SX4NI/AAAAAAAAD4c/b-ci60fCLYA/s1600/19290051028_12769b45b8_k.jpg)
On the headwall of Bark at the Moon.
After a quick wait for the sun to go behind a cloud, I headed upwards. The route is pretty bouldery so you have to move quickly. Before I knew it I’d moved solidly through the crux and noticed myself letting out a deep breath to relax a bit and enjoy the pumpy upper headwall.
Although I felt strong and solid on the crux, I’m aware that I am still feeling rather self-conscious in my movement - I am still climbing up the rock thinking about my ankle rather than about nothing. I can see it will take a little while yet to lose this feeling and be able to enter a decent state of concentration on the rock.
Although I wasn’t totally relaxed, I was still very pleased overall to have made another little milestone of progress. I feel I should probably do another few E8s before progressing back to E9 again.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GE7EIq1L0Q4/VZuiwj0XztI/AAAAAAAAD4U/8HQ-dF7cLHA/s640/18856582503_219418b004_k.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GE7EIq1L0Q4/VZuiwj0XztI/AAAAAAAAD4U/8HQ-dF7cLHA/s1600/18856582503_219418b004_k.jpg)
Finishing off with Sunset Song E5 6b
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PEeo513Cp-E/VZuj8ZeDw3I/AAAAAAAAD4w/aupyYa4PMRA/s640/Empireofthesun+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PEeo513Cp-E/VZuj8ZeDw3I/AAAAAAAAD4w/aupyYa4PMRA/s1600/Empireofthesun+3.jpg)
Masa going for it on Empire of the Sun E4 6a
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sCulVk6fGd4/VZuig1ff0wI/AAAAAAAAD4E/u5iYfPDBL6M/s640/18856725023_9cb283cd8e_k.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sCulVk6fGd4/VZuig1ff0wI/AAAAAAAAD4E/u5iYfPDBL6M/s1600/18856725023_9cb283cd8e_k.jpg)
Ab rope stuck in a crack. Got there eventually.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TiBwlV8fqO8/VZuinYocy-I/AAAAAAAAD4M/cdFwiWPXJk4/s640/19289572500_52625e7161_k.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TiBwlV8fqO8/VZuinYocy-I/AAAAAAAAD4M/cdFwiWPXJk4/s1600/19289572500_52625e7161_k.jpg)
The midges we waiting for us to decide to do one more route. We thought better of it.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/FMrtm63Mq94)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Blamman 1 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/CXUlxvi9qJc/blamman-1.html)
8 August 2015, 7:04 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AAtMFEGC0Fc/VcZAUQt-6EI/AAAAAAAAD5g/uuappKcdet4/s640/Blammansmall.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AAtMFEGC0Fc/VcZAUQt-6EI/AAAAAAAAD5g/uuappKcdet4/s1600/Blammansmall.jpg)
Myself and Jacob Cook enjoying another night shift on Blamman’s north face.
Right now I am in arctic Norway with Jacob Cook and Calum Muskett, climbing on Blamman’s north face. I was here 4 years ago on a Gore-Tex Experience Tour trip and made the first free ascent of Bongo Bar (400m, 8a). While I was dangling around on Bongo Bar I remember looking to the right and seeing the aid line of Disco 2000, going through roof after roof of rather blank looking granite. I remember seeing a bolt belay, seemingly in the middle of nowhere on a smooth face between roofs. At that moment, spark of curiosity was opened in my mind to see if this could make an obviously really hard free route.
And so now we are here, trying it.
The first few days have been a little slow in progress. We have aided through the crux pitches in the first half of the route and done some cleaning and investigating if there are enough holds to make a free ascent possible.
We have done nearly all the moves on the three hardest pitches now, all F8s. But we have also spent a lot of time sitting in the tent, listening to the rain falling. So it’s looking like our time will be too short to free climb so many hard pitches. One of the hard pitches is still dripping wet with seepage too. But we’ll see.
Whether we can or not, so long as we find dry rock, I'm sure we will have a good time and a good workout.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-ndQv2QKs4/VcZARMnIxXI/AAAAAAAAD5M/6SvorHeKYtk/s640/Blammansmall2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-ndQv2QKs4/VcZARMnIxXI/AAAAAAAAD5M/6SvorHeKYtk/s1600/Blammansmall2.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gd9EevPRx1Q/VcZAUQsOnQI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/I2A-fnvA_0k/s640/Blammansmall3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gd9EevPRx1Q/VcZAUQsOnQI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/I2A-fnvA_0k/s1600/Blammansmall3.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8RLL7EjMEM/VcZAU4qeqkI/AAAAAAAAD5k/VGfZfZOM0sE/s640/Blammansmall4+2.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8RLL7EjMEM/VcZAU4qeqkI/AAAAAAAAD5k/VGfZfZOM0sE/s1600/Blammansmall4+2.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/CXUlxvi9qJc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Disco 2000 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qKjew6z-XEc/disco-2000.html)
21 August 2015, 7:50 pm
Disco 2000, 8a+ Blåmman (https://vimeo.com/136796442) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The video above takes in some of the great climbing on Disco 2000. The pitches went at 7b, 8a+, 7a, 8a+, 7c, 7c, 7b+, 7a, 7a, 6a, 6c, 6b+, 5+.
It was while freeing Bongo Bar on the north face of Blåmman, 4 years ago that I got the spark of curiosity to try to free Disco 2000. Looking across at the maze of roofs to my right, I saw a bolt belay looking lonely in the middle of nowhere on a blank looking granite wall. Huge roofs above and below. I could picture Marten Blixt hand drilling them by headtorch in some blizzard during their winter aid ascent in 2000.
After 4 days of sitting in the rain in our tent below the wall, Jacob and myself were desperate to make more progress in aiding up to that belay and finding out if the line was even possible to free. We continued aiding through the ‘night’ (the midnight sun period had just passed) and made it up to bolts. There were definitely enough holds on the crux pitch. However, the next roof, which was split by a soaring finger crack, was completely soaking.
Returning to our tents to sit through some more days of rain, we began to realise that wetness was going to be a major problem for us in trying to free this line. Calum Muskett arrived, bringing a couple of dry days with him. Jacob and I were so impatient as the wall started to dry out again that we raced back up to try the Arctandria corner at around 11pm.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oz5awC6dpVY/Vdcw-aa2_XI/AAAAAAAAD6E/PSiGqHlJ15o/s640/discoblog+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oz5awC6dpVY/Vdcw-aa2_XI/AAAAAAAAD6E/PSiGqHlJ15o/s1600/discoblog+1.jpg)
On the crux of pitch 2; the Arctandria corner (8a+).
Disco 2000 shares the first two (and crux) pitches of Arctandria before breaking out left through the roofs. Arctandria was first freed in 2005 by Didier Berthod and Giovanni Quirci. The immaculate 50 metre open groove on the second pitch went at 8a+. We were both rather intimidated by it.
It turned out to be a bit easier than we had worried. Perhaps a combination of mutual keenness to climb it, and cool conditions of the middle of the night helped. After working out the moves and gear placements, Jacob went first and dispatched it. His telescopic arms spidered through the whole crux section in two moves. I went straight afterwards. It was after midnight and a little hard to see the odd foothold, so a few smears were improvised in a hurry.
After going down for a rest as it got light, we climbed back up the fixed line later the same afternoon and I finished cleaning the crux pitch while Calum worked on the Arctandria corner. Later on it started to rain again. Calum descended the fixed rope first, and as myself and Jacob descended, I noticed the temperature dropping. I stopped and asked Jacob if I could try the crux pitch now. As it turned out, while I led this, Jacob was getting steadily soaked by the rain on the hanging belay below me. On the roofs above, I didn’t even notice. I was in my own bubble, absorbed by this brilliant varied pitch.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q03nNycU--w/VdcxH6Re_RI/AAAAAAAAD6M/4NOFeAcF6zk/s640/discoblog+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q03nNycU--w/VdcxH6Re_RI/AAAAAAAAD6M/4NOFeAcF6zk/s1600/discoblog+3.jpg)
On thin crimps where the aid line pendulums on pitch 4 (8a+)
The load carrying involved in remote big walling has been a little hard on my still recovering ankle, so just now I feel such pleasure to step into rockshoes and move freely without pain, or having to concentrate on every step to avoid it. Still, I was anxious not to take a long fall from the delicate final groove to the belay, the result of which would have been a nasty slam into the wall. We also took turns to free an unbelievable finger crack through the next roof. Even though the fingerlocks were wet, it was still one of the best pitches anywhere. Jacob joked that there ‘might be some crimp on the lip’ to help us pull over where the crack thinned. I agreed outwardly. Inwardly, I thought ‘there’s no crimp up there!’ As it happened, there was the most badass jug exactly where you’d want it. Swinging footless from this proves a spectacular finale to the roof pitches.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ujrv_n56WpI/VdcxP7ULw-I/AAAAAAAAD6U/LKQyxZMpY1Q/s640/discoblog+4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ujrv_n56WpI/VdcxP7ULw-I/AAAAAAAAD6U/LKQyxZMpY1Q/s1600/discoblog+4.jpg)
Calum approaching another roof on pitch 6 (7c)
The rain prevented us from doing any more, so we went down. But the next morning the sun was shining and the air seemed really dry. The upper pitches had had seeps of around 100m in length after all the wet weather, but today they looked much shorter and more broken. So we blasted back up the ropes to start trying the upper pitches. Jacob and Calum had a good tussle with another E7 pitch of laybacking and slippery undercutting. The next E7 above had a worrying gap between holds where the aid line pendulums. It needed cleaning which I did as quickly as possible and then Jacob asked to jump on the lead. He wanted to try and dyno sideways across the gap. He clearly likes and is good at dynos. But when he flung himself at the hold, slid off it and hurtled down to join me on the belay stance, I suggested he look at the crimps just above.
He wasn’t having any of it. Instead, shaking with a wee dose of adrenaline, he scuttled back up the flake and took off sideways again. This time he stuck it. I knew there was no way he’d let himself fall off the sustained E6 climbing that followed. So I relaxed and waited for my turn. I found a technical traverse on sidepulls just above and next thing we were all hanging awkwardly from the next belay.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-muRUcGM85AY/VdcxcaWlWAI/AAAAAAAAD6k/L6zLQJwwtgQ/s640/discoblog+5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-muRUcGM85AY/VdcxcaWlWAI/AAAAAAAAD6k/L6zLQJwwtgQ/s1600/discoblog+5.jpg)
Nice camp site below the wall
At this point it was nearly midnight, it was clearly raining to the north and south of us and we knew the next 4 day spell of rain was due to hit in a couple of hours. It seemed like continuing would almost certainly mean a cold and wet retreat from near the top of the wall. On the other hand, if those pitches were easier, we could just make it. They still looked wet and we knew that this moment was likely our only realistic chance to complete the free ascent. So we carried on, first with a soaking wet E4 groove. I slithered and power screamed my way up it. It wasn’t pretty, but I got to the next ledge. The following two pitches went a little quicker in the gloom of the night and landed us on a ledge with two pitches to go. The rain clouds looked like they were just a few minutes away. To be honest, the rain wouldn’t have made much difference to the next pitch.
I climbed it by pasting the back of my Gore-Tex jacket on the wettest, moss ridden side of the groove, while leaning both feet out to the driest footholds out left. A ridiculous technique to look at, and to do, but I got higher. Every so often I lobbed dripping lumps of turf over my shoulder to reveal soggy handjams beneath. I slithered across a bulge that would be easy in the dry, getting really pumped. I shouted to Jacob that I couldn’t hold on to the wet holds any longer. He didn’t believe me. If it wasn’t for a wee kneebar on the lip, I would have been right. In the end, the rain started just as I pulled over the last pitch of proper climbing. Within 5 minutes we were completely soaked and water was pouring down the rock, but we scrambled to the summit, happy.
With the all the route now freed, we would have returned to make a single day redpoint which is definitely possible. But after more days of rain, the face was soaking again, so we didn’t get to even try. I was still really happy that we managed to take every moment of dry weather to get all the pitches freed in the 50 hour, rain interrupted sessions we did get. The locals we met in between the solitude of our camp below the wall were extremely friendly and kind to us. Both the climbers and the various people we hitched lifts from. It made it such a nice experience on top of all the great climbing, and this left us very impressed by the community in this part of Norway.(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjpjPAjnMa4/VdcxohUU8iI/AAAAAAAAD6s/1cuUJ57d7r0/s640/kalkgummi1.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RjpjPAjnMa4/VdcxohUU8iI/AAAAAAAAD6s/1cuUJ57d7r0/s1600/kalkgummi1.jpg)
A rather finely placed jug on the lip of pitch 5 (7c)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qKjew6z-XEc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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He's wearing whites here, did he get dropped by Scarpa or something?
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What? Who cares what he's got on his feet? Good pics good write up. Looks superb! Excellent stuff. :icon_beerchug:
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should someone pop round to Dense's house to check he's not overdone it on the love 'n' hugs pills?
2 goods, an excellent and a superb all in one post without a trace of irony or smirk
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What? Who cares what he's got on his feet? Good pics good write up. Looks superb! Excellent stuff. :icon_beerchug:
I assume he probably does since that's how he makes his living, at least in part. Just seems odd, he was a pretty prominent guy for Scarpa.
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Waiting for autumn (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/z1n1tx23Hm8/waiting-for-autumn.html)
5 October 2015, 11:55 pm
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lNSEVlaJJAc/VhL6NItDOtI/AAAAAAAAD7g/1vsYiowdKJI/s640/12141120_973413786051359_6702156090414508754_o.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lNSEVlaJJAc/VhL6NItDOtI/AAAAAAAAD7g/1vsYiowdKJI/s1600/12141120_973413786051359_6702156090414508754_o.jpg)
Finishing the hard section on The Force, 8b at Brin Rock. I'm just in from bolting a potential 8b+ or 8c there which looks excellent. Photo: Chris Prescott (https://www.facebook.com/chrisprescottadventure?fref=photo)
The weather in Scotland over the past six weeks has been too damn good! My plan for the autumn was to start trying a couple of hard bouldering projects early, so that I would hopefully be well placed to maximise my chances of success from the start of the autumn good conditions.
I had about 5 sessions on my project in the Arisaig Cave it super hot conditions in early Sept. Although I made much progress and have a good sequence, I started going backwards on the problem. It was getting hotter! The other problem was a common one with projecting - I was actually losing strength because I wasn’t training, just trying the project with rest days in between. After a couple of weeks the weather was showing no signs of cooling, so it was better to go back to some training and wait for the cold winds.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5N5HZbv8y7Q/VhL6KN6OvtI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/lCadg4pvxwI/s640/12094892_973205566072181_8748838018105939721_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5N5HZbv8y7Q/VhL6KN6OvtI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/lCadg4pvxwI/s1600/12094892_973205566072181_8748838018105939721_o.jpg)
Repeating The Fury 8a+ at Brin. Most of September has been like this. Hence not a lot of time for blogging! Photo: Chris Prescott (https://www.facebook.com/chrisprescottadventure?fref=photo)
I did 10 days or so of good training on my board, interspersed with some trad days on Creag Dubh. Among other things I repeated Gary Latter’s ‘Aye’ E7 6b, in 25 degree full sun. Gary has been doing a good job of tidying up the crag and adding new routes lately. I also have made a couple of visits to Brin Rock’s new sport routes. I’d heard there was a new 8b there called The Force. I went on it after a week of daily board training, feeling pretty exhausted. I nearly got it on my first redpoint and kicked myself because I felt I had no energy left.
Four goes later I got up it. It’s definitely good to trash yourself like this once in a while. After two days rest jumping about with Freida, I felt a bit fitter. I was back at Brin yesterday and repeated ‘The Fury’ 8a+ and another excellent 8a+ up a great flake crack. Still the sun was roasting hot.
So the unseasonably hot autumn has somewhat messed with my plan, but I am a bit fitter and hopefully ready to try the boulder and sport projects this week.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJXDlZ8mf7I/VhL9ycRQ73I/AAAAAAAAD7s/zaTdXssbnUo/s640/CreagDubh+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJXDlZ8mf7I/VhL9ycRQ73I/AAAAAAAAD7s/zaTdXssbnUo/s1600/CreagDubh+1.jpg)
Masa finds a welcome rest on Ruff Licks E3 at Creag Dubh in 25 degree October heat.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KzojvxhYPlY/VhL95NwekVI/AAAAAAAAD70/qymY37nwne0/s640/CreagDubh+2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KzojvxhYPlY/VhL95NwekVI/AAAAAAAAD70/qymY37nwne0/s1600/CreagDubh+2.jpg)
Dan starting up the 6b at Brin. Where are my sunglasses? On the way to Brin, Dan filled me in on the exciting progress of Fort William's imminent climbing centre. Work is underway!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/z1n1tx23Hm8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Bouldering Season gets going (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/2RxysBkIias/bouldering-season-gets-going.html)
12 October 2015, 11:26 pm
Cameron Stone Arete 8A+ (https://vimeo.com/142189513) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
After an abortive September start in the warm weather, bouldering season felt like it kicked off a bit today with a chill breeze and a notable absence of the midge. Here is my starter for ten - a repeat of the Cameron Stone Arete (8A+) put up by Dan Varian (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/27752580-busy-month) in the spring. I should really have done this years ago, but it gave a nice excuse to return to the boulder.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/2RxysBkIias)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Claire in Outlandia (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Q_C1BYWv0d8/claire-in-outlandia.html)
30 October 2015, 6:09 pm
Claire MacLeod - Outlandia Artist in Residence (https://vimeo.com/141642153) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a short video I made of Claire’s week up in the fantastic Outlandia in Glen Nevis. Claire used her artist’s residency week hand stitching text that was written by residents of the Glen a few hundred years ago onto clothing.
If people are interested in a residency, Outlandia is run by the Nevis Landscape Partnership (http://www.nevislandscape.co.uk/index.php) and take applications.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Q_C1BYWv0d8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Another Magic trip (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Kd2vjzuaod0/another-magic-trip.html)
8 November 2015, 1:11 am
Magic night in the Wood (https://vimeo.com/145013170) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The last two weeks have been my third time in Magic Wood in Switzerland. The place is packed with some of the hardest and most iconic boulder problems in the world and for that reason it’s a great testing ground of your level in bouldering.
It’s still a long term ambition of mine to climb a Font 8C, but fit this into my normal all-round climbing life of trad new routing, winter climbing etc. I’ve always admired the Chris Sharma creation ‘Practice of the Wild’ and have this as a lifetime climbing goal.
It’s a little tough as a goal, not just because it is 8C but also because sometimes one particular boulder problem that’s above your current limit might not match your strengths. However, it’s not just about the grade - I’d just love to one day climb that line. For to happen I know I’d need to be doing a lot more bouldering than I do now. Coming from a summer of big wall climbing and a bit of trad, I felt totally weak on it when I arrived two weeks ago. Just nowhere near even doing the moves.
So I tried some other projects. First I went into the Darkness Cave and spent a couple of sessions on Dark Sakai 8B. I almost got it about 5 times and felt quite confident that I might manage it after a rest day. Unfortunately I woke the next morning to realised quite badly tweaked my finger (strained lumbrical) on the nasty pocket at the start. I went back to it but immediately realised I’d have to leave it for this trip - my finger was not happy.
I sat out some wet days and then started from scratch on another dream line I’ve been wanting to do for a few years - One summer in Paradise (8B). I worked out the moves over a couple of quick sessions when it was still really damp. Although I could do the moves, I wasn’t feeling very confident about my power level.
Yet on the third session and around two weeks into my trip, I finally started to feel some strength returning to my fingers and after a warm-up in the encroaching darkness, I climbed it pretty easily first try. I was absolutely delighted to feel like I was moving well on the rock and feeling like I could actually do something.
I was expecting to be trying the line all evening so I headed down to the famous Riverbed 8B which I’d played on a little previously. I was enjoying just working out the moves in a kind of relaxed fashion and started thinking I would probably return to it. But when I started from the start I found myself climbing the whole thing. As I climbed through the crux I realised I better really concentrate and try and do it, but relax at the same time. There were some exciting moments as I hadn’t placed my torch to shine on the upper headwall and ended up groping around in the dark trying to find the finishing jugs.
Brilliant! I was over the moon to climb two dream 8Bs in a night. Like so many climbers I watched Dave Graham doing the first ascent of Riverbed in the Dosage films and was inspired to visit Switzerland for bouldering.
I had one session left and decided to return to Practice of the Wild. It was still really damp (it’s in a deep cave and seems rarely totally dry) and on warming up I almost just left it because the holds were quite slippery. But curiosity basically drove me to keep trying and after an hour I finally managed to do all the moves. I couldn’t do any more than that, but I was ecstatic. For me that feels like a real breakthrough and a tentative thumbs up for some changes in my training picture recently.
It’s definitely put some extra fire into my motivation to train specifically for bouldering and return to Magic Wood with the confidence that this climb is actually a possibility for me.
For now we are off to Spain for a week or so to go back to the sport climbing. Hopefully at least I will be able to pull on the holds, although no doubt I will be pumped by the third bolt.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Kd2vjzuaod0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Natalie's Transition (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/j0ab8xuDvLg/natalies-transition.html)
8 November 2015, 8:07 pm
A couple of years ago Natalie Berry asked if I’d be keen to show her some trad climbing places around Scotland as she was making a move from competition climbing into trying out trad and general mountain adventures. Of course I was delighted to climb with her and along the way, the Hot Aches crew of Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott followed her progress and the fun times we had along the way. The trailer above is for the film which is now finished and premiering at the Kendal festival shortly. We’ll see you there if you are coming.
The process nearly fell at the first hurdle thanks to my ineptitude at catching a tiny crimp properly on Hold Fast Hold True (E9) in Glen Nevis. It was the very first day Nat and I climbed together. Nat did her first trad lead and then we climbed another few pitches before I decided to go for Hold True. I was actually climbing it really well and was almost distracted by the fact that I’d just dispatched the crux totally static. Then I just caught a crimp one finger-width to the right of where I should. A tiny error. My left ankle was already in a sub-optimal state after a fall 15 odd years before. Landing on it again from a great height didn’t help it much at all. I was seriously not happy with myself for making an error at one of the worst possible moments, not least because of how the experience of watching someone fall earthward might affect Natalie. It’s not really in the ‘mentor’ job description.
However, she still wanted to climb with me (once I’d had surgery) and so we went on to have quite a few nice trips to some amazing corners of our islands. We did quite a few mega classics, got freezing cold on ice routes, got too warm on melting ice routes, took falls, went for long runouts, opened new routes and stood on top of the Ben on a perfect day after a fine ice climb. It kind of led up to Natalie’s ascent of Dalriada on the Cobbler just a few weeks ago, a fantastic effort in very cold late season conditions.
The film is great because you don’t normally get to see someone as they progress right through from fumbling wires on a hard severe, to calmly running it out on mountain E7 in the mist, while shivering away from the cold.
It was a pleasure to watch Nat’s progress unfold. It’s always a pleasure to watch great climbers progress - when they have talent and a determination to see through what they started, you know they will get there in the end. Watching the film back also made me want to have more trips like those, if Nat will tie on the the rope with me again. I promise I wont fall off and hit the deck, and will leave the crag before it’s totally dark!
If you are at Kendal, I'm speaking there at 10am on Sat 21st. Transition is premiering at 7.30pm on Friday 20th. All the details are on the Kendal site here. (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/speaker/detail/dave-macleod)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/j0ab8xuDvLg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing Coaching workshops at the MacLeod wall, FWMF 2016 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7CdoW8Nsrvw/climbing-coaching-workshops-at-macleod.html)
9 November 2015, 6:50 pm
Sunday boarding (https://vimeo.com/120416572) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
When I designed and built my climbing wall last year, I had two purposes in mind:
1. To get ridiculously strong.
2. To coach other climbers there, in a nice environment with everything I’d want to be able to give good coaching.
I was too busy writing Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html) last year to start offering coaching again, and this year has been rather taken up with recovering from surgery and then going on climbing trips to make up for the lost time.
But finally I’m excited to say I have my first MacLeod wall climbing coaching sessions arranged. I’ll be running them over three days of the Fort William Mountain Festival in February 2016. I’ll run two days of sessions on rock climbing technique and one day focused on dry tooling/winter climbing technique. The content is aimed at any climbing ability level and there will be up to 6 climbers in each session so you can come with friends and partners as folk often do. In the video and pics you can get a taste of the wall.
Afterwards I hope you’ll join me at the excellent Fort William Mountain Festival for speakers and films which are always totally inspiring. All the workshop (and festival) details are on the festival site here (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/dave.html). Best book a place soon, they do tend to sell out.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5ZlSztckos/VkDodiL35EI/AAAAAAAAD8M/0CAIasz6bHE/s640/MacLeodwall.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5ZlSztckos/VkDodiL35EI/AAAAAAAAD8M/0CAIasz6bHE/s1600/MacLeodwall.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7CdoW8Nsrvw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Earning my Santa hat immunity (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/AqUpRa7KzCc/earning-my-santa-hat-immunity.html)
13 November 2015, 12:00 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QrNNjsKMXyM/VkXP0ZE1hTI/AAAAAAAAD8o/x2zj7UuYxnk/s640/IMG_1516.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QrNNjsKMXyM/VkXP0ZE1hTI/AAAAAAAAD8o/x2zj7UuYxnk/s1600/IMG_1516.jpg)
Pleased to redpoint Aitzol 8c. Definitely my first 8c warm-up!
After a long drive from Magic Wood we arrived in Catalunya feeling a bit tired. I had a bit of realisation that going from pulling on for a couple of seconds on a Font 8C to trying to do stamina routes in Margalef was maybe not going to be easy, especially as I still couldn’t pull on pockets properly after straining a lumbrical in Magic Wood.
My goal for the week was not too ambitious. All I wanted to get was revenge on Aitzol (soft 8c). In late 2013 I was here for a week with Alicia. We’d had the trip booked for ages and in the interim period I needed to get my second ankle surgery and the date for that fell just over two weeks before the trip. Not ideal. I said I would still go and just do what I could - probably just belay and feel sorry for myself.
I arrived in Margalef still barely able to walk 100 yards and still taking antibiotics for a painful wound infection. On the first day I was almost in tears just walking from the car 100 metres to buy the guidebook. I limped up a 200m approach and just belayed Alicia and popped painkillers.
After that the tide turned on that particular recovery. And quickly. The next day I did one 6c. The next a 7a+. The next an 8a redpoint. Then on the final day I got 7c+ onsight, 8a+ redpoint and almost managed to redpoint Aitzol 8c.
I fell just after the crux but couldn’t really make the most of the heel hook rest and couldn’t do any drop knees. It was fantastic to leap back trough the grades day after day and switch from delicate surgical patient to rock climber again. I knew that my next time in Margalef I would be straight back to try and finish Aitzol.
I had a couple of tries in awful conditions and although the moves were no problem, I was getting pumped after ten seconds on the rock. But after a rest day the rock was drier and I returned and started up it straight away, opting to just work the moves a bit for my warm-up. I arrived at the heel hook rest feeling quite good, so decided to continue. Next thing I was through the crux. I was definitely feeling quite warmed up by then.
I climbed all the way to the anchor without really getting that pumped. At the start of the trip I bought a silly Santa hat in Barcelona in prep for Christmas family silliness. We a pact that if I fell off a 6c or failed to get overlapping halves on Aitzol, or if Alicia said ‘take’ on lead, we’d have to wear the Santa hat for the next three routes.
After my 8c ‘warm-up’ I was chuffed when Alicia announced that I’d earned full immunity from the Santa hat for the rest of the trip. With my project done in the first ten minutes of the session, we headed off for a brew and then got on Llamps i Trons (8c+/9a post hold break). I certainly wont be climbing that in our last couple of days here. But I think I have a new project to return to Margalef for.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qb6AlKO8Rbc/VkXPmX3n2dI/AAAAAAAAD8g/cDuxhSqIEjg/s640/DJI_0063.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qb6AlKO8Rbc/VkXPmX3n2dI/AAAAAAAAD8g/cDuxhSqIEjg/s1600/DJI_0063.jpg)
A lovely day filming Alicia with the drone on her favourite run in Serra de Montsant.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bi_5r1efHOo/VkXP7Be6WAI/AAAAAAAAD80/xMklPlJlMbw/s640/P1000796.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bi_5r1efHOo/VkXP7Be6WAI/AAAAAAAAD80/xMklPlJlMbw/s1600/P1000796.jpg)
Alicia enjoying the last morning in Magic Wood before the monster drive to Catalunya.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/AqUpRa7KzCc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Yep. Spotted him leering about in the laboratory area. Dodgy Brit in a down jacket on a hot day.
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The 4th Wave - Arisaig project done. (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/7SRHVRfOJaE/the-4th-wave-arisaig-project-done.html)
17 December 2015, 12:14 am
4th Wave, 8B first ascent (https://vimeo.com/149216716) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I had a strong feeling I was going to be able to climb my project in the Arisaig Cave imminently. I have been climbing rather better than of late and could feel the moves getting easier and easier. Since returning from my great trip in Europe in October, I’d had a bit of a crap period with a few things not really going well. When feeling a bit fed up with things not going well, I tend to stutter in my energy levels, with periods of intense motivation and energy and other periods where the motivation is there but the energy is not.
Yesterday started out as one of those low days. I sat in the car for twenty minutes just doing nothing before walking in. I wasn’t really thinking about anything. I think perhaps I needed to do that for a few minutes. I strolled in to the Rhu Peninsula and began my warm-up routine in the cave. I was definitely feeling strong, but not sharp and a little sluggish. Experience tells me to keep going with the routine even in this state. At worst, you have another workout, another chance to learn more about the project. At best, the non-plussed state of mind can defend you from nerves when you are very close to a hard project. As I’ve written about before, despite what many sport psychology textbooks tell you, there’s no need to be feeling positive before producing a good performance. People are just way more complicated than that.
On my first try I finally broke through the crux and fell at the last hard move, powered out. After two more rubbish tries, I cruised through the crux, feeling the strongest I’ve ever felt on the line. Arriving back at the final slap to the apex of the cave, I felt my power draining. But I slapped, and I didn’t fall. It’s hard for me to explain this or to accurately describe my state of mind in this move. Although focusing during a 100% effort is totally automatic for me, I wouldn’t say I felt particularly concentrated. It just seemed to happen without me really feeling like I was making it. And so I found myself at the finishing holds, project (on and off) of three years, done.
All a bit surreal really. I celebrated my moving directly on to the big yin - a link of my earlier monster line right through the cave into my now ex-project. 25 moves of Font 8a to an awkward kneebar rest and then into a tough 8B. You can see the video I made of Eternity’s Gate a few years back below. It’s an amazing piece of climbing. And it’s dry almost all of the year. That should give me something to chew on for a few seasons!
The above musing on psychological states may well be rather peripheral to this project getting climbed. The bottom line is I felt really strong on it. Why? Well take a look at the graph below of my weight over the past 6 months. It doesn’t take a genius to spot the pattern. The ‘how’ of this process is complex and a subject for another blog post. But the ‘why’ is an important part of my current improved form.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7dXOPeQpqv4/VnH8QhqqEJI/AAAAAAAAD9s/ZGIowAF08aY/s640/Screen+Shot+2015-12-15+at+10.17.57+pm.png) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7dXOPeQpqv4/VnH8QhqqEJI/AAAAAAAAD9s/ZGIowAF08aY/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-12-15+at+10.17.57+pm.png)I was rather heavier than I am now when I was a teenager but lost a fair amount of fat since getting keen to push my climbing about 18 years ago. Of the numerous ways that can be used to lower your weight temporarily, large amounts of running, often in a fasted state, was probably most effective for me to maintain a fighting weight for projects. However, since my accident at Steall in 2012, I haven’t been able to run. I also found that the other tactics I used were now frustratingly ineffective. My weight has slowly crept up over the past three years as a result, despite intermittent efforts by me to settle on a strategy to counter this. The low point of this was the peak of the graph above in early October, when I took 5 tries to climb an 8b (The Force at Brin Rock) I was not happy with this performance!
After reaching a stage where I was finally able to let go of pre-established ideas and come to the subject a-new, I started to read piles of books, 100s of research papers and countless online discussions in order to get a better grasp of the subject. Although this only scratches the surface of the understanding required (hence my reluctance to share more than the results at the moment), I do feel like I have finally got somewhere.
On one hand, I cannot emphasise enough the importance of knowing what you are doing before making an effort to manipulate your diet or weight. For a start, being lighter may not be an advantage at all for a large proportion of climbers. For example, some climbers cannot influence their weight much no matter what they do. I have noticed that these climbers sometimes struggle to understand why it seems to make such a huge difference to some others. The health consequences of getting all this wrong are about as big as they get. I have spent countless long nights reading on this subject. Unfortunately, due to the poor quality of much of the available research, and unbelievably poor quality of a good deal of the popular press articles and books on the subject, it’s a complete big fat minefield. On the other hand, one cannot opt out of eating a diet and maintaining choices in how we live - what if the choices we are making that form our baseline are the bad ones? Doing nothing for fear of making an error could be the worst possible scenario. Yet the barrier of being able to read and process enough raw science to be able to distinguish good personalised advice from bad is not realistic for a lot of people. It’s an impossible situation.
All I can say is that I am lucky to have the opportunity to be able to plough through all of these papers and run my ‘experiment of one’ from a position of being slightly less in the dark than I might be. It’s an ongoing experiment and I have so much to learn - it’s a bit daunting and I am determined to maintain a dispassionate approach. But the first step was to try it for a couple of months and see if there was a positive impact on my climbing. At this point, that is an emphatic yes!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/7SRHVRfOJaE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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My first drone film 'Miles Away' (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/bBn6q_0e6q8/my-first-drone-film-miles-away.html)
18 December 2015, 3:22 pm
Miles Away (https://vimeo.com/149214499) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I’ve had my drone for several months now and been gathering some footage for various projects in Scotland, but I’ve just finished my first drone film. It’s just a short fly about the Swiss alps, and Catalunyan hills, following Alicia Hudelson as she explains what mountain running means to her. It was great fun to make on my rest days from climbing. Thanks Alicia (http://aliciasrunningandracing.blogspot.lu/) for being describing your thoughts about running so well and taking us to such nice places.
I just heard its been shortlisted for the Drone Fest (http://www.dronefestival.co.uk/) film festival in London next month. Nice! I think it's the first time I've entered a film competition since my first film Echo Wall (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/echowall.html) seven years ago!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/bBn6q_0e6q8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fort William Mountain Festival reel (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vswuj69s1ao/fort-william-mountain-festival-reel.html)
7 January 2016, 9:31 pm
Fort William Mountain Festival 2016 showreel (https://vimeo.com/149759596) from Fort William Mountain Festival (https://vimeo.com/fwmf) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I just put together the reel for the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) which is coming up in mid February. The showreel has just a fraction of the films and speakers involved in this year’s festival
I’ve been to the FWMF every year for a decade and I know I’m highly biased, but it is the best mountain festival I’ve ever been to. Why? The combination of location, great shows and especially great vibe.
I remember being blown away at a previous festival when during a hill running night the MC asked the audience how many people in the room were active hill runners and I reckon over 250 people raised a hand. I don’t know anywhere else where you get such energy of like minded people coming together and sharing their keenness. The great thing about FWMF is that folk are always out on the hill or in a workshop during the day enjoying some climbing or other activity. So everyone shares the ‘glow’ as they head back to the Fort for the evening film and lecture sessions.
As always I’m doing quite a lot at this year’s festival. as well as putting together the showreel, mountain culture award films and various sponsors films, I’ve also entered my own film ‘Miles Away’ and will be premiering the film I’m making this year for the Nevis Landscape Partnership (http://www.nevislandscape.co.uk/local/projects/index.php?projectID=2), which will feature characters old and new from the Nevis area.
I’m also running my climbing technique masterclasses. In previous years I’ve run them at the Ice Factor, but this year, I’m pleased to say I’m running them at my own climbing wall!! It will be the first time my wall will be open to the climbing world beyond my friends. The Saturday and Sunday sessions are sold out but there are a couple of spaces left on the rock climbing and also dry tooling/winter sessions on Friday 19th Feb.
Tickets for the festival nights are here (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/). If you want to grab those remaining spaces on my climbing sessions, check out the details here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/masterclasses.html). See you there in a handful of weeks.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vswuj69s1ao)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New years resolutions (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/q3XYs912qvs/new-years-resolutions.html)
8 January 2016, 1:17 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/9outof10climberssmall.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html)Judging by the number of books we’ve been stuffing into the wee postbox in Inverroy since January 1st, there are a lot of climbers out there with new year’s resolutions to change your habits and up your level. Great! Let me know how you get on. I would say ‘good luck’, but that would be irrelevant. You’ll make your own luck, or you won’t.
Both 9 out of 10 climbers (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html) and Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html) are in part behavioural science books. They explain how having willpower is not really the centre of behaviour change that leads youth better climbing performance, or getting back to full form after an injury. Rather, changing the environment helps you to make the changes you need without having to constantly force it by willing yourself to do something against your natural tendencies.
My own new year’s resolution is pretty simple - to get more sleep. 8 hours minimum and 10 hours after a heavy training day. I think it has been the missing link in my own training for a long time. I’m ashamed to say I’ve probably squandered the effort of many a training session by not giving my body the chance to benefit from it in recovery, simply by not sleeping enough.
As not-so-subtly hinted in 9/10’s title, this training error might be something you should think about too. I dare say there are tons of climbers out there who spend ages researching and doing different training regimes, only to waste all of that time and effort by under-sleeping and missing out on the gains from that training.
Depending on what mood and mindset you apply to the problem, you could see it as a super simple thing to change. Just go to f**kin bed early! Simple. But of course real life is not so simple. You have to be organised. Being organised requires stepping back from the actual schedule and taking a dispassionate look at what activities there are in your life that are unnecessary. Stepping out of your own bubble is essential to do this. For instance, a lot of folk would have more time for all sorts of things simply by deleting the Facebook app from their phone.
Is Facebook undermining your performance in sport? is commuting time? Is the fact you haven’t build your training board at home yet? Is your commute, or your phone (or whatever it is in your life) really more important to you than your climbing dreams? It’s your choice.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/q3XYs912qvs)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Southern Freeze (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/vpqgUe2QR_U/southern-freeze.html)
19 January 2016, 10:40 pm
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nQzTHOBNVTA/Vp63yPokpRI/AAAAAAAAD-o/XJkj63V_p4s/s640/Southern+Freeze+5.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nQzTHOBNVTA/Vp63yPokpRI/AAAAAAAAD-o/XJkj63V_p4s/s1600/Southern+Freeze+5.jpg)
Enjoying the fine position on the second pitch of Southern Freeze IX,9 Photo Helen Rennard
The Arrochar Alps are not just my favourite winter playground because I’m from Glasgow. I still love going there in winter even though I live under the Ben these days. Just before I moved to the highlands in 2007 I visited the south peak of the Cobbler to attempt Ken Johnstone’s summer E2 ‘Southern Freeze’. It was an obvious winter line, being festooned with luminous lumps of moss and turf. That day I discovered that the route was pretty hard and sustained. It took me around two hours of being continually pumped to climb the first 25 metres to the crux bulge. When I got there, I just didn’t have any more juice in the tank. I scraped about uselessly at the bulge, then lowered off.
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The Cobbler south peak in fine condition. Southern Freeze takes the left skyline through the bulges.
It was always on my mind and I made a couple of abortive tries to go back, mostly finding it out of condition or poor weather. On Friday we knew the Cobbler would be in excellent condition and Helen Rennard and I made a difficult journey down from Lochaber in heavy snow. The walk was similarly slow and I started up the wall at noon. The same delicate, pumpy and at times scary two hours later, I arrived back at my highpoint. But this time, either with recent training paying off, or the benefit of experience, I had power left in my arms. After a short rest I climbed quickly and confidently across the bulge, finding the hooks more quickly than I expected. I didn’t take more than a split second to take in the exhilarating position on the lip. I was far too busy grunting and eyeing up the tufts above. Once Helen had warmed up and joined me at the belay, I swung around an easy bulge and cruised up the much easier corner above, taking in the spectacular afternoon light looking down the Clyde and across to Ben Lomond.
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On the crux of Southern Freeze, IX,9 Photo: Helen Rennard
After a very busy (18 hour) work day the next day, I picked Helen up at 5am, two hours after I’d got to bed and was feeling decidedly unmotivated as we drove back south to go for Mammoth (IX,9) on The Brack. I was even less psyched meeting Stuart the Postie in the car park, who confidently predicted the turf would not be frozen on such a low mountain. I still thought the steep open walls would be frozen even if the grade Vs with deep corners would be insulated by the snow.
I had been so busy with work the day before, I hadn’t got time to look at Mammoth’s description. I just knew it took steep cracks right of the big arete on the crag. What the hell, it probably wouldn’t be white/frozen anyway. Well it turned out to be both white and frozen! I climbed a 10 metre corner to the first steep crack and launched up this. It looked desperate and under the liberal plastering it took me ages hanging right on the steepest bit trying to find the hooks to pull over. Eventually I spotted a wee flake and the move was easy! If only I hadn’t had the 30 minute workout to find it.
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Mammoth looking in great condition.
At the next belay I could see this was a logical place to climb the crack on the left as Guy had mentioned in his blog. But that was the third pitch? I suddenly realised I must have missed out the initial 10m pitch which is rather indirect off to the left of the main line of cracks. Idiot. Oh well, there wasn’t much I could do about it now! So I just got stuck into the next tech 9 pitch. Guy had mentioned perfect protection but the crack today was choked with ice and not accepting gear readily. On the overhanging part, I got a killer no-hands kneebar which helped a lot to buy me enough time to fiddle wires into the icy crack. Later Helen said she just touched them and they fell out. I managed to complete the pitch without getting too pumped and still felt like I had plenty of energy. I think my recent training changes have another thumbs up. The last pitch was thankfully a bit more chilled tech 7 which I enjoyed despite getting cold hands. We abseiled back down the wall and with my head torch beam I sussed out where we went wrong on the first pitch. I suggested to Helen that I just tie in and do the pitch for completeness, but she was shivering and not making keen noises, so we kept going down. Next time I’ll make a point of reading the guidebook.
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Startring up the crux pitch of Mammoth IX, 9 on the Brack. Photo: Helen Rennard
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Heading out left to the turfier crack o the net tech 9 pitch.
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I got a handy kneebar right at the hardest bit. Handy because I fumbled my wires and nearly dropped all of them.
Both routes were a brilliant reminder of how good Southern Highlands mixed climbing is. Mammoth is a fantastic pumpy line and quite low stress since it’s well protected. Although we annoyingly missed out on the first bit, the climbing on Southern Freeze was a good bit harder overall so I think I’ll suggest IX,9 for that as well. I’m also beginning to wonder if two of my new routes on the Ben back in March (High Pressure Crack and Red Dragon) could potentially be IX as they had harder climbing. A fun start to the mixed season, even though I’m about to leave for Catalunya.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W4xnj0iTkCc/Vp62x6izb9I/AAAAAAAAD-g/_hbqhkvTZEo/s640/Southern+Freeze+1+%25281%2529.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W4xnj0iTkCc/Vp62x6izb9I/AAAAAAAAD-g/_hbqhkvTZEo/s1600/Southern+Freeze+1+%25281%2529.jpg)
Helen dispatching another pitch on Mammoth
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/vpqgUe2QR_U)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Scottish Winter Kit list and Ellis Brigham ice event (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/h_UveWf6FqI/scottish-winter-kit-list-and-ellis.html)
22 January 2016, 8:32 pm
Scottish Winter Kit list (https://vimeo.com/149167538) from Ellis Brigham (https://vimeo.com/ellisbrigham) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a video I made going through the kit I take for Scottish winter climbing - sack, clothing, climbing equipment, food etc. It’s something people quite rightly obsess over since it makes a huge difference to your day on the face.
Thanks to Ellis Brigham, Mountain Equipment and Gore-Tex for arranging the video. Speaking of Brighams. I’m speaking and running ice climbing technique masterclasses at their stores in London Covent Garden on Feb 3rd and Manchester on Feb 10th.
If you’d like to win a free ice climbing masterclass at the indoor ice walls in both locations, head here (http://www.ellis-brigham.com/advice-inspiration/blogs/competitions/win-an-ice-climbing-masterclass-with-dave-macleod) to enter (and best be quick). The classes are during the afternoon. In the evening lectures, I’ll be speaking about various adventures on Scottish hard bits of climbing and other adventures on big faces around the world. Look forward to seeing y’all there. You can get your tickets for the evening lectures from here (http://www.ellis-brigham.com/advice-inspiration/blogs/events/what-are-you-afraid-of), and it may be a plan to get them in advance.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/h_UveWf6FqI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Working Week (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/n1vRtQrSI8I/working-week.html)
27 January 2016, 1:59 pm
This week, I am in Margalef, getting fit for projects, getting fit on projects, and editing video in every spare moment in between. We just arrived and after failing on some hard routes, I did a quick 10 min redpoint of La Bombi, 8b with the head torch. The following day I got a 1st redpoint of Zona 30 8b before moving onto my main course of failing on hard routes. There is some beta for Zona 30 in the video above.
I am suffering from slight lack of focus. I still can’t really pull on two-finger pockets because of a torn lumbrical although I’m fine on crimps. Anyone who has climbed in Margalef will understand why this presents a bit of a problem. What I really need a good project to get stuck into. But the two hard routes I’ve tried so far are either not very nice climbing or pretty reliant on being able to pull with that ring finger. I’m trying to decide whether to try an 9a that I know I’ll just be able to play on until my finger gets better, or get on some other classic 8cs. Problems problems eh?
Today is a rest day and I’m editing some great footage of articulate people and inspiring athletes from back home in Lochaber.
I got some news today that my wee short film of Alicia running ‘Miles Away (https://vimeo.com/149214499)’ has won best short film at the Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/fwmf-film-competition.html) which is in three short weeks time! Delighted. Miles Away is also showing at this year’s Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival (http://www.edinburghmountainff.com/) which I’m speaking at as well. It’s also showing at the Dronefest (http://www.dronefestival.co.uk/) film festival in London tonight (I think) if you happen to be there.
Miles Away (https://vimeo.com/149214499) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/n1vRtQrSI8I)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Wake up MacLeod, it's redpoint time (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/rNQGPscfxDg/wake-up-macleod-its-redpoint-time.html)
28 January 2016, 5:42 pm
Last night I worked till around midnight (editing Mick Tighe's voice) which is kind of early for me normally. But I didn’t get to sleep and so was a complete mess when the alarm went off at 7 to belay Alicia at Laboratori. I belayed until noon and felt so sleepy I decided not to even climb.
As we packed the car I changed my mind and decided to have a play on Photo-Shot 8b. After a couple of ridiculous tries where I first fell off the hardest move by fumbling the hold, and then fell off the easiest move by completely missing the jug, I got it done in full roasting hot sun. This was not a very professional performance. But it was a good fight nonetheless.
Lesson. Get your work done early, go to bed. Wake up with a functioning brain.
Video above.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/rNQGPscfxDg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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BMC Women in Adventure film comp (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/6Gdzwt2bXXk/bmc-women-in-adventure-film-comp.html)
31 January 2016, 11:05 am
Miles Away (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/miles-away/)
I’ve entered my wee film Miles Away into the BMC women in adventure film competition. I noticed that they rank and shortlist the films based on the number of views on BMC TV. So even if you already saw it please do take a couple of minutes to enjoy Alicia Hudleson’s articulate thoughts on running in the mountains, and the lovely Swiss and Catalunyan hills.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/6Gdzwt2bXXk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Sundance on Beinn Eighe (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/xNeQgHGuUzg/sundance-on-beinn-eighe.html)
4 March 2016, 12:11 am
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hJP8BrYECZI/VtjOS0o26sI/AAAAAAAAEAk/yWM5SALjY2k/s640/sundance+7.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hJP8BrYECZI/VtjOS0o26sI/AAAAAAAAEAk/yWM5SALjY2k/s1600/sundance+7.jpg)
Mixed climbing doesn’t always need to be a sufferfest - enjoying solid hooks and gear on the crux of Sundance VIII,8 on Beinn Eighe
I’m more torn than ever about how to focus my climbing time at the moment. With various factors coming together I feel like I’ve made some real progress in my bouldering and very keen to capitalise on it and keep training as hard as I have been over the past couple of weeks.
But winter action is here too. I was away last week and missed the excellent looking weekend in Scotland. Since I got home the other night, I was desperate to get back out and swing my ice tools on something. I arranged to climb with Steve Perry and he mentioned he had wanted to climb ‘Sundance’ VIII,8 on Beinn Eighe for a long time.
On a good forecast I rolled out of bed at 2.45 still stiff from my boulder training and jumped in the car with a monster cup of tea. We met Murdo, Uisdean and Ian Parnell in the car park and walked in with them having a good chat before they headed off for their project of the day. After an 8am breakfast on the summit ridge, we headed round to the cliff which was in fine rimed condition and sporting some good looking bits of ice on Sundance.
The crux 2nd pitch was excellent, solid hooks and bomber gear all the way. After the first few moves, the hooks were massive ‘hero hooks’ (as Ian put it) that were so secure, so I could enjoy the surroundings as I climbed as well as on the belay. The next pitch was just more of the same, pulling over small roofs onto icicles with sinker placements and good gear.
So do I choose boulder training, and climb something pretty hard in another month or so, or do my usual all-rounder attempt to be a Jack of all trades but master of none…?
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-euxun7WZedA/VtjN37JgTBI/AAAAAAAAEAY/nBRw8Uu0MPs/s640/sundance+1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-euxun7WZedA/VtjN37JgTBI/AAAAAAAAEAY/nBRw8Uu0MPs/s1600/sundance+1.jpg)
Lovely still morning walking round to Far East Wall
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Good conditions - a rare moment when I find myself being in the right place at the right time in winter.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Cbnuw_MQ-U/VtjN9w7EO8I/AAAAAAAAEAc/oqRMMO3U0Tc/s640/sundance+3.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Cbnuw_MQ-U/VtjN9w7EO8I/AAAAAAAAEAc/oqRMMO3U0Tc/s1600/sundance+3.jpg)
Some gnarlies eyeing up todays action.
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Testing out my new Prohpet jacket - If you like the Fitzroy, you may get still more excited about this one. Well I do, anyway.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVVzXAQrJpw/VtjOcGQyL_I/AAAAAAAAEAw/gLS1vGDyWOo/s640/sundance+8.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qVVzXAQrJpw/VtjOcGQyL_I/AAAAAAAAEAw/gLS1vGDyWOo/s1600/sundance+8.jpg)
Walking out with a nice view over to LiathachDave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/xNeQgHGuUzg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Get them in (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iGFP9q-hkjc/get-them-in.html)
7 March 2016, 9:27 pm
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Getting ready to get extremely pumped and scared all over again on the second pitch of Night Fury IX, 9, Ben Nevis.
The late winter/early spring period is an absolutely amazing time in Scotland. Everything is in great condition. I usually have to do a lot of work in the earlier part of the winter to pay the bills, but I use the time to do a lot of training as well. Ideally, when late Feb arrives and the weather turns perfect in Lochaber, I’m fit and keen.
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Liam Fyfe enjoying Fàilte gu clach Cameron Font 7c in Glen Nevis.
It always goes past in a blur. You are either climbing, or at home in a stupor of exhaustion trying to eat, sleep and get ready for tomorrow’s adventure. The day after I was on Beinn Eighe, I showed Liam and Rhiannon the Arisaig Cave.
At first I thought I was too tired to climb at all, but once I got started I decided to have a training session and repeat some of the cave’s classic problems and show Liam the beta in the process. I was fine up to about Font 7c+ but didn’t quite have the strength to repeat 4th wave. Returning there got me inspired to plan a campaign on the remaining project, the link of Eternity’s Gate into 4th Wave. This would work out at 25 moves of Font 8a+ into a hard 8B. The link would very likely be a Font 8C. It’s in condition to work and try 6 or 7 months of the year and nearly always dry. Next winter, you’ll mostly find me in there.
The following morning we were at the Cameron Stone in Glen Nevis. I didn’t think anyone had ever climbed the obvious crimps coming in from the left to finish up ‘The News in Pidgin Gaelic’. If it has indeed not been done, then I call this problem ‘Failte gu clach Cameron’ Font 7c. I headed down to Glasgow afterwards to speak at TCA at a fundraising event for refugees. Good to see this kind of event being organised among climbers - we clearly need to show our governments the way when it comes to doing what we can to take care of the vulnerable.
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About to get scared on pitch 2 of Night Fury, IX,9 Ben Nevis. The hanging hexes give an idea of the steepness! Photo: Helen Rennard
The next morning I walked into the Ben with Helen Rennard to try a new route on the walls right of Echo Wall, where we had already added a hard new route here last season. After getting through the initial hard section, I found myself at the foot of a smooth corner choked with ice. I knew it was going to be hard to protect and moved up gingerly, working hard to try and find a crucial runner. I got three psychological-only runners and continued, telling myself I would not go another move higher without finding a solid piece of protection. 6 metres higher, I was still in the same position, having ignored my own ultimatum for about 15 moves in a row. I was gripped, with legs shaking and looking at a 60 foot ground fall if a tool ripped, so I was very careful and kept a cool head.
After about 25 minutes of excavating verglas, shaking and gibbering, I got a hex in and could relax again. From a hanging belay above I could see that the next pitch had a desperate looking overhang, again looking hard to protect as well as climb. Typical Ben Nevis. I told Helen I’d go up and arrange what gear I could and then make a decision if I should commit to the overhang.
The gear was mostly rubbish, but one sort of okay cam convinced me not to rig an abseil straight away. I hung in for ages, totally pumped trying to place a small ice hook. After countless attempts I finally got it to at least not fall out, but it was clearly rubbish. I was unsure what to do. A fall from over the lip would end up on the slab below the belay and it looked hard, if only for a short way.
Eventually I switched my brain off and committed, arms on the last of their reserves. I am still here to write this, so I didn’t make any mistakes.
To follow the dragon naming theme from our route Red Dragon just to the left, we called the route Night Fury, IX, 9. My arms were so tired, it was an effort to hold the pen and write the description in the CIC hut new routes book.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zMAOwjWg14/Vt3wne7jibI/AAAAAAAAEBo/N_ia_UUlX1s/s640/March2016+6.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--zMAOwjWg14/Vt3wne7jibI/AAAAAAAAEBo/N_ia_UUlX1s/s1600/March2016+6.jpg)
Descending back into Observatory Gully with very tired arms.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iGFP9q-hkjc)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Review: Spike's book (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/6IcH-pNokS8/review-spikes-book.html)
9 March 2016, 8:34 pm
(http://www.davemacleod.com/images/ShadowOfBenNevis.jpg) (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/ShadowOfBenNevis.html)Ian Sykes (Spike) gave me a copy of his new book ‘In the shadow of Ben Nevis (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/ShadowOfBenNevis.html)’ which is just out. Spike is a household name in the Lochaber area due to his founding of Nevisport, the Nevis Range ski resort as well as his involvement in the climbing and mountain rescue scene over many decades. So this, his life story is pretty essential reading for Lochaber locals to understand the cultural history of the development of outdoor sports in the area. But it’s also well worth reading for everyone else, for a few reasons.
First, his stories of epic mountain rescues before the age of helicopter assistance, good communications, organised rescue teams and enforced drink driving laws are riveting. Somehow rescues always seemed to come on Hogmanay when every mountaineer in Scotland seemed to be legless. In Spike’s defence, the call to rescue stricken fellow climbers also came when Spike had just returned from epic climbs of his own, or other rescues. Despite these problems, they achieved daring and spectacular rescues, feats of endurance with or without a hangover. I was impressed and enthralled by the struggles they had to save lives. Particularly impressive was the ethos of taking personal responsibility to give as much as you can to help those in danger, and that rescue was part and parcel of mountaineering adventures rather than a ‘problem’ in our sport.
His stories of starting and developing his primary businesses of Nevisport and Nevis Range were also fantastic as stories in their own right, as well as vehicles to explore Spike’s approach to life and business which is to be much admired in my opinion. Through local knowledge, I’d heard snippets of many of the stories already, but it was great to read the full narratives. Even his stories of his many seasons exploring Antarctica and various remote big walls around the world taught me much about a spirit of adventure in a different age.
Like any autobiography, the best of it is the exploration into the person and their approach to their life’s challenges. I don’t know if was Spike’s approach, his style of describing it, or both, but I enjoyed this a lot and reflected on my own view of how to approach challenges. Spikes challenges (losing fingers, big business disasters or near disasters, and failures to save fallen climbers among them) seemed to be something that Spike found his own way of dealing with, even though they clearly affected him a lot. I liked that he was not a robot personality of ego and bulletproof drive— he spoke of lingering upset about events and thoughts of how they could have panned out differently. Yet his approach led him to many successes. By the end I felt a renewed sense of the possibilities for what can be done with a brave approach and an acceptance that life will bring renewed rewards even after some dark moments.
I decided to buy some copies in for my webshop. You can find In the Shadow of Ben Nevis here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/ShadowOfBenNevis.html).
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/6IcH-pNokS8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Mick Tighe's film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/K2s8a-9B5x0/mick-tighes-film.html)
12 March 2016, 1:55 pm
Mick Tighe, recipient of the 2016 Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture (https://vimeo.com/155683704) from Fort William Mountain Festival (https://vimeo.com/fwmf) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a wee film I made about Mick Tighe, this year’s recipient of the Scottish Award fro Excellence in Mountain Culture at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Hope you like it as much as I did making it.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/K2s8a-9B5x0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Spring arrives early in Scotland (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/0puvCshFBOw/spring-arrives-early-in-scotland.html)
17 March 2016, 9:38 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkFQ3dIA5KA/VurQ30Lj4AI/AAAAAAAAECM/xMoSPP2QogAPBOAy6yv6p-ZUEwxfiGx6g/s640/kintra+selfie+1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkFQ3dIA5KA/VurQ30Lj4AI/AAAAAAAAECM/xMoSPP2QogAPBOAy6yv6p-ZUEwxfiGx6g/s1600/kintra+selfie+1.jpg)
With the good forecast we made a snap decision that winter was over and just arrived on Mull to try a mega crack project that Michael told me about. Yesterday I had a full day on it and managed to link the moves once. But couldn’t repeat it. Feels like the top end of 8a+ without placing the cams. Tomorrow I’ll get on the lead if it’s dry and start taking some airtime no doubt!
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XvI1NspAQPs/VurQo6bJc3I/AAAAAAAAECE/6CKuuq7gt7o9aitH-ByFkrCiiBpC6KxNg/s640/kintra+selfie+2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XvI1NspAQPs/VurQo6bJc3I/AAAAAAAAECE/6CKuuq7gt7o9aitH-ByFkrCiiBpC6KxNg/s1600/kintra+selfie+2.jpg)
Lovely granite walls, sunshine and cool temperatures.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zjYOBPpyaUU/VurQhNoBLQI/AAAAAAAAECA/bXYy2h6_FPwNmQCM1gWCMlxZ53ve2C9Tw/s640/scoorbeach1.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zjYOBPpyaUU/VurQhNoBLQI/AAAAAAAAECA/bXYy2h6_FPwNmQCM1gWCMlxZ53ve2C9Tw/s1600/scoorbeach1.jpg)
Claire checking out Scoor beach (video still from my drone of course)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AjUDoONxCJE/VurQ3IxK4WI/AAAAAAAAECI/7g6Fl1LHIVovcPt2RyEwjs8h3pYlbNLKg/s640/scoorbeach2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AjUDoONxCJE/VurQ3IxK4WI/AAAAAAAAECI/7g6Fl1LHIVovcPt2RyEwjs8h3pYlbNLKg/s1600/scoorbeach2.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/0puvCshFBOw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Natalie Berry's film (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/1m-65e11aPQ/natalie-berrys-film.html)
19 March 2016, 12:41 pm
Natalie Berry, recipient of the 2016 Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture (https://vimeo.com/155681750) from Fort William Mountain Festival (https://vimeo.com/fwmf) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a film I made about Natalie Berry, this year’s recipient of the Scottish Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture at the Fort William Mountain Festival. Special thanks to Paul Diffley at Hot Aches Productions for the additional footage from the film Transition. If you haven’t seen it, it’s a great film and you can download it from here (http://www.hotaches.com/transition).
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/1m-65e11aPQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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First great trad route of the season (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/fkBnvfaus-o/first-great-trad-route-of-season.html)
21 March 2016, 12:31 am
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w-aY4heiSNg/Vu8_zw53HII/AAAAAAAAECg/24-qclSi-fAMSU4Y8ffEmwSbStyF3qejQ/s640/iceburn.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w-aY4heiSNg/Vu8_zw53HII/AAAAAAAAECg/24-qclSi-fAMSU4Y8ffEmwSbStyF3qejQ/s1600/iceburn.jpg)
First ascent of Ice Burn E8 6c, on the Ice Wall, Kintra, Isle of Mull. Photo Chris Prescott
I was all geared up for some winter projects when the Scottish weather, as always, changed the plan. I’m certainly not complaining. The weather turned amazing for all things rock climbing. Bouldering, sport, trad - all in top condition, no rain, no midge. I tried to keep calm and not go headless chicken.
I settled on a plan of heading to Mull to look at a granite crack project Michael Tweedley had told me about for years. The whole coastline at Kintra has many unexplored trad and bouldering possibilities. I jumped in the car with Claire, Freida and Michael and was later joined by Chris Prescott, Natalie Berry and some more family for a right old gathering on the coast.
I started trying the crack which was amazing. I’m not really a crack person, so it felt like 8a+ to me and would definitely be a good sustained fight. None of the individual moves were that hard but I could just tell the last few metres would be exciting after very sustained climbing and placing all those cams.
Although I had several days in hand, I was anxious as always to get my chance to try it. The perfect week of weather had unfortunately proved not quite perfect - under the thin layer of inversion cloud, some drizzle was forecast. And one stubbornly seeping hold in the crack looked like it could scupper the whole thing unless it got sun and wind on it.
So on the first day Chris and Nat joined us, the hold was too wet and we explored the bouldering. Both Natalie and I flashed Greg Chapman’s Roughcut Reality 7C+, feeling it was a bit easier than the given grade. Next door I started looking at the project sit start Greg had mentioned on a big prow. It looked a perfect line, but surely at least 8a+. But once the beta was unlocked I got it in about 15 minutes or so. High Heidyin, 7C. A bit too good a line to be considered a salvage of the day!
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7gAkp7WAlNc/Vu9AmJ63nLI/AAAAAAAAECo/ab0QFMwohokODbwChSGDV4UsXf-2pPZrQ/s640/highheidyin.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7gAkp7WAlNc/Vu9AmJ63nLI/AAAAAAAAECo/ab0QFMwohokODbwChSGDV4UsXf-2pPZrQ/s1600/highheidyin.jpg)
First ascent of High Heinyin 7C, Kintra, Isle of Mull. Photo Chris Prescott
The next day I scrutinised the wind forecast. A burst of strong northerlies was due to reach it’s peak at 6pm. So I waited until 4 and walked out. A bit of frantic hold drying and I realised it was a great opportunity to do the project.
So I tied right in and got started. It was freezing and the granite was definitely grippy. I told myself two things before starting - the cams will inevitably take that couple of seconds longer than you’d like to place and clip them, and that no matter how well it goes, I’ll need to be ready for a fight at the last five metres. I think it was good advice.
I did indeed arrive at the last few metres a bit more pumped than I would like from the extra effort of arranging the cams. At the last cam, my right arm was burning. But I actually felt like I had enough strength to deal with it and was able to step up a gear and bear down on the final crimps. With a shout I leapt for the top of the crag and there was no way I was letting go.
First trad route of the year, and a belter it was too. Ice Burn, E8 6c. Tomorrow I have one more day to look at another hard sounding trad project before it’s back to bouldering mode. I have three Scottish bouldering projects I want to try in the next two weeks. One 8A+ and two 8Bs, and then it will be time for me to drive to CH.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/fkBnvfaus-o)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Pinks and Whites?
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Pinks and Whites?
Probably straight out of the cupboard he stored them in when he got the Scarpa deal.
Wonder whether he just can't fit into Scarpas since his foot & ankle problems and had to walk hobble away from the deal or whether they finished it.
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Pinks and Whites?
He's been in a mix of shoe's since last summer, Scarpa no longer down as sponsor on his site etc.....
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Pinks and Whites?
He's been in a mix of shoe's since last summer, Scarpa no longer down as sponsor on his site etc.....
No wonder Scarpa is no more his sponsor, guess who's taken his place?
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1671/25863840331_867a42826c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FpuWDz)this could be false (https://flic.kr/p/FpuWDz) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
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Is that your "send" shirt Nibs? ;)
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Oh it's Nibs, looked like Scarpa were sponsoring Robbie Williams. Thought that was an odd choice ahead of DMC
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Barechest and beanie is so early 2000. Now it's all about shirt and suspenders.
;D
LOL both of you!
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Barechest and beanie is so early 2000. Now it's all about shirt and suspenders.
;D
LOL both of you!
Shirts and suspenders? You sound like Dr Nibsnfurter.
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Gimme That Swing, 8B (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/RrJ6SWPZtsk/gimme-that-swing-8b.html)
24 March 2016, 11:28 am
Gimme That Swing 8B, Glen Nevis (https://vimeo.com/160221796) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Returning home from Mull I could see the incredible spell of weather was about to break. I dived out to my project on The Cameron Stone in Glen Nevis, which I was very close to completing before I left. It was starting to rain as I got there and the top rapidly got soaked.
The project is super crimpy and I’ve split my fingertips on it twice already. Basically, you only get a handful of tries at the crux match and jump before it splits. On each try, you gamble with ‘one more try’ until your finger splits and you lose two days training.
The project starts up Dan Varian’s problem up the arete, completed last spring at 8A+ and repeated by me last September. I could see there was an obvious harder link to go leftwards on the tiny crimps and jump to the good block on the neighbouring 7C+ ‘The news in Pidgin Gaelic’. I’m never too sure about the grade, especially with super crimpy lines, but if the arete is 8A+ then it’s got to be a grade harder.
As usual I didn’t think I had all that much chance of success, but though I better hang my Prohpet Jacket off the baby Scot’s Pine growing out of the top-out crack, just in case I got there and needed dry(er) holds.
About 4th try, I finally held the jump and braced myself for sliding off the soaking wet top-out and into the bog below. With a careful approach, the top was actually fine and I strolled off down the hill, delighted to have finished a great project in such unlikely conditions. Check out the video above.
Before I go to Switzerland, I have two more boulder projects I would like to try, but going by the forecast for the next week, I might be training instead. Actually that will do me good. I feel like I’m getting a bit weak from all this outdoor climbing! A good problem to have.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/RrJ6SWPZtsk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Barechest and beanie is so early 2000. Now it's all about shirt and suspenders.
;D
LOL both of you!
In the uk suspenders are what ladies use to hold up their stockings, you are wearing braces. Unless of course lower down in the picture you have on your suspenders and fishnet stockings.
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Barechest and beanie is so early 2000. Now it's all about shirt and suspenders.
;D
LOL both of you!
In the uk suspenders are what ladies use to hold up their stockings, you are wearing braces. Unless of course lower down in the picture you have on your suspenders and fishnet stockings.
Jesuschrist.
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By the way...
Failing in Scarpas and succeeding in Five Tens...
Subtle.
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Well spotted - subliminal advertising?
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By the way...
Failing in Scarpas and succeeding in Five Tens...
Subtle.
Must have made all the difference to holding that tricky swing when his feet cut loose.
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Maybe Scarpas are so heavier so the swing is harder to arrest
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Curtain solo video (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Ff7LbQZTl0c/curtain-solo-video.html)
27 March 2016, 11:13 pm
The Curtain - Solo (https://vimeo.com/160418439) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a wee video shot on my GoPro of my solo of The Curtain on Ben Nevis the other week. I was up in the north face to do something else but because of conditions eded up going for a wee solo. I’d never done the Curtain and wanted to solo it for ages but never got round to it.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Ff7LbQZTl0c)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Ben Nevis - Wild Times (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ZJwxVLyCJ84/ben-nevis-wild-times.html)
5 April 2016, 10:48 am
Ben Nevis · Wild Times (https://vimeo.com/159920070) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I’m delighted to finally be able to share this film that I’ve been gathering footage for since last summer. The Nevis Landscape Partnership asked us to make a series of films for them related to the Ben Nevis/Glen Nevis area over a few years. Last year we focused on the huge survey of the Ben Nevis north face.
This year I wanted to focus more on Glen Nevis, and great people who are connected to it, both in the past and today. One place that I have always found one of the most special places on the earth is Steall in upper Glen Nevis. In the film I featured a little of the history of the folk who lived there, just a couple of generations ago.
One of the things I find fascinating is the idea of the similarities and differences between the people of the past who lived and worked in these places, and those who use it today. Often, today people are using the mountains for sport, although many are also lucky enough to work in the mountains too.
I decided to do a bit of filming with local Fort William GP and British fell running champion Finlay Wild. Finlay is well known among the locals for winning the Ben Nevis Race every year and breaking various running records around the Scottish mountains, such as the Cuillin Ridge record.
I wanted to ask him about his relationship with The Ben and the Glen - whether the mountains seemed less wild or intimidating when you are fit enough run up Ben Nevis in less than an hour? What went through his mind while he was running? And for someone who could live anywhere, why he chose to stay among the mountains he grew up in. His thoughts on these issues were great, all with the backdrop of his amazing running.
I was particularly keen to capture his winter ridge runs with my drone and naturally it took a bit of time and organising to get a day when it might be possible to fly in full winter conditions. We waited in falling snow and mist until we were all freezing and finally the clouds just started to clear. At first I didn’t think the drone batteries would handle the cold, but I got one warmed up enough to fly and got some nice footage that to my mind captures something about why you would want to go to such effort to get fit and deal with all the hardships of the winter mountains and training. I was so exited to see the ‘drone’s eye view’ of Finlay charging along a snow-clad ridge, it was hard to concentrate on flying the drone.
After all the work of putting this together, I had a short break and start filming the next one tomorrow!
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ZJwxVLyCJ84)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Really nice footage and great words from Finlay :2thumbsup:
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Magic times (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/RqiVuWrRaaI/magic-times.html)
21 April 2016, 10:48 pm
Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+ (https://vimeo.com/163236472) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Right now I am back in Magic Wood, Switzerland, waiting for the rain and snow to stop. I’ve been here for a week, with a mix of great climbing sessions and the usual wet days. I’m always full of anticipation and excitement for any climbing trip. But this one maybe that bit more than ever as I felt some signs that I feel in maybe the best climbing shape I have been.
In some ways I find this amazing since I worked ~16 hour days more or less non-stop between last October and the Fort William Mountain Festival in February. Some of this work included training and climbing. But the point is, I had a heavy workload with a lot or pressure on my ability to rest and thus sustain a training schedule. I have adapted some good strategies to squeeze maximum benefit from less resting time that I would like.
So what about the training? The minor factor in this has been a solid uninterrupted period of training through the winter on my board and not recovering from surgeries as I have been pretty much non-stop since late 2012! There is nothing ‘rocket science’ about the training really - just turning up, working my weaknesses, completing my workouts and then resting as well as I can between them. Because I have my own board, I have to take extra care not to become too set in my ways with the movements I set for myself. Part of this is having a good range of hold shapes, making sure to record and climb other climbers problems and set informal models of hard moves my projects. Part of it is just setting new problems often. But my big weakness remains ‘old school’ pure finger strength and body power. So I have many basic fingery problems and still spend plenty of time doing my deadhangs. When I do get the opportunity to go to large commercial walls (TCA in Glasgow is my favourite!), I forget the basic stuff and use the opportunity to get more variety of movement styles that expose and work my weaknesses. Obviously, this situation is quite specific to me.
The wall-based training factor is only the minor aspect of my recent improvement because it is overshadowed by the other factor has had such a dramatic effect on my climbing. This factor was radically changing my diet back in October. Many readers have asked me to write about this, and I will. However, it is an ongoing experiment and still a little early to draw any conclusions about exactly what has made the difference. I am also reluctant to potentially influence anyone before completing a broad base of reading on the scientific literature on the subject. This is something I have spent a lot of my spare moments doing and find it a mixture of fascinating, shocking, disturbing, exciting and depressing all at the same time. I have more stages of my ‘experiment of one’ yet to complete. No doubt I have much still to learn. However, so far I have experienced a range of quite dramatic health improvements, quite apart from the original goal - to increase my climbing level.
I did a bit of mixed climbing this season which did rather get in the way of rock training, but was certainly worth it with four IX’s onsight. I finished off just a couple of weeks ago with a repeat of Ines Papert’s Bavarinthia IX,9 in the Gorms. I kind of felt ready to get on something harder, but the season didn’t quite work out for me - the conditions disappeared just as I had my window to go mixed climbing more. Hence I went to Mull and did the crack project instead. Just before I left, I squeezed in two sessions on a nice boulder project on Skye. I was sooooo close on the second session. But it didn’t happen, so I’m hoping for some strong northerlies in mid May when I get my next chance to go there.
In Magic Wood one of my main trip goals was to work on the sit start to Riverbed (8B+). Although I did Riverbed (an 8B in itself) on my last trip very quickly, I got totally stumped by the sit start. I couldn’t do it at all!
At the end of a session last week I surprised myself by linking this part in about 30 minutes work, and excitedly reacquainted myself with the Riverbed section beyond. Next session I arrived rested but in slightly humid conditions. After a warm-up I shocked myself by completing the whole thing on my first try. I didn’t expect that! It’s only the third 8B+ repeat I’ve done, and it was great to feel it was not at my limit at the moment. Check out the video above - it’s a nice boulder!
So obviously I’m excited to see that some of my training decisions are paying off (at least for now) in quite dramatic style, but also what else I could climb while I’m here. Unfortunately, it’s now heaving it down with rain and snow. So I am sitting drinking tea and climbing nothing. Perhaps I will see some of you for my talk at the Aviemore Mountain Film Festival on Friday night (22nd) where I will discuss some of the ideas that have improved my climbing of late. After that I will return to Magic Wood and wait for the rain to stop again.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/RqiVuWrRaaI)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Practice of the Wild (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/dprpx-MYh-w/practice-of-wild.html)
2 May 2016, 1:30 pm
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X_PVG94E-8/VydClS1F-kI/AAAAAAAAED0/HKeyqiYTC8oUGK4666UMycgRSkGoL9v9ACLcB/s640/Practicestill2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--X_PVG94E-8/VydClS1F-kI/AAAAAAAAED0/HKeyqiYTC8oUGK4666UMycgRSkGoL9v9ACLcB/s1600/Practicestill2.jpg)
Video still of climbing Practice of the Wild (Font 8C) in Magic Wood last week.
The footage (https://vimeo.com/2601379) of Tyler Landman doing the second ascent of Practice of the Wild was what first inspired me to visit Magic Wood in 2012. Obviously I’d already heard about it, as ‘Chris Sharma’s hardest boulder problem’. I’d heard about Chris’s method for the last move - a wild all points off dyno across the roof. Landman looked so dynamic and strong on it and the climbing looked so good. It it was an exemplary piece of hard climbing. I had to go there.
But not for Practice of the Wild - at Font 8c and one the hardest problems in the world according to Daniel Woods (http://www.mydigitalpublication.com/publication/?i=161897&p=38) who also repeated it, it was too hard for me. Although I do boulder for quite a few months in the year, sometimes as much as 6, I’ve never got much beyond a handful of Font 8Bs. On my 2012 visit, feeling in good shape for me, I did manage two 8B+s (New Base Line and Mystic Stylez (https://vimeo.com/59741570)) which I was very surprised and delighted with.
Of course bouldering grades do tend to be a bit stiffer in the UK and neither of these felt as hard as some of my own problems in Glen Nevis such as Seven of Nine (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uv2VKd8wgQM). But operating pretty much on your own, it’s easy to get lost with grades, and I frequently do. I’ll give myself the excuse of not doing one climbing discipline for long enough to get an idea, and stick to it.
In 2012 I did try Practice of the Wild for a session, and confirmed that it was indeed far too hard for me. I couldn’t do any of the crux moves. None. But that was sort of irrelevant. Because I was inspired by it, which is all that really matters. I’m fully accepting that when you try something hard, you might never succeed. If that wasn’t true, it wouldn’t be hard, would it? So who cares whether it’s too hard, so long as it drives your motivation.
I visited Magic Wood again in 2013 for a week (of warm and wet weather). The hardest thing I climbed was 8A. Ridiculous as it is to say, the best thing about the trip was just to stand and look at Practice of the Wild again, and think.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EviXwJuUZ28/VydDD6NQi9I/AAAAAAAAED4/iDL83ho5Y4MlqIy7XSAjbrW7-3z_EP0UACLcB/s640/darksakaismall.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EviXwJuUZ28/VydDD6NQi9I/AAAAAAAAED4/iDL83ho5Y4MlqIy7XSAjbrW7-3z_EP0UACLcB/s1600/darksakaismall.jpg)
Climbing Dark Sakai (8B) last week. I'd tried it before in October but tweaked my finger on a nasty pocket at the start. This time I could do it first try after a quick reacquaintance.
In the past year or so, I’d gone through two ankle surgery rehabs, a big chunk of the year on crutches and was looking at another surgery. I was 36 and after so much time just trying to be able to walk and climb anything, the idea of reaching a new level of Font 8C seemed laughable. A joke. I looked at the problem and even in my dreamy inner thoughts I felt there was no chance, ever. Don’t kid yourself on MacLeod.
For quite a while I accepted this. Actually it was part of a wider shift in my thinking at the time. I was really trying to come to terms with my loss of form after the surgeries. I wasn’t really prepared to deal with it and was trying to find the best way forward. For a time it seemed like I should accept that upward progress in sport climbing or bouldering was just over for me. As I wrote in Make or Break, I do feel that almost every serious battle scar you pick up in life changes your constraints. It changes the rules of the game for you, sometimes tipping the scales against you. If you are unprepared to push back against this and still fail, it may be better to leave the game. Eventually I realised this was not me. I do still enjoy trying to improve at climbing so much, that playing against poor odds is still worth it for me.
Given some time to recover from the surgeries, I naturally felt this black and white way of thinking melt away a bit. The reasons why I couldn’t keep improving seemed less important when I could get on with a daily routine of actually training and going climbing, ticking routes again, even if they were not hard ones.
Some footage of me climbing my model of Practice on my board in March
So with some positive feelings returning I made a statement of intent by building a model of Practice of the Wild on my board. It was a pretty good one! At first, I couldn’t do any of the moves. After several sessions, I could do two of them individually, then another, then another. But that’s where the progress basically ended. By last September, at my strongest I could string two moves together (of seven). At this rate, I’d maybe climb the model when I was 45?! I’d have to hope it was harder than the real thing. Actually I knew it wasn’t.
And so I knew I needed another ingredient, not an edge, but a supercharger on my climbing standard. You don’t get many of them at 37 (without crossing boundaries of legality and sporting fairness). But you do if you are not thin. I’ve never been a thin climber, and always struggled to keep my body fat % below about 15% (putting me firmly in the outlier category at the high fat end of the Font 8B+ or harder cohort). For reasons I couldn’t fully understand (even now I still only have fluid hypotheses) it was getting harder and harder for me to even tread water in this battle. I still had a hunch that somewhere beneath my tyre was a potential Font 8C climber.
So although this aspect of my preparation clearly would be the linchpin, the trouble with it was that I’d already thrown every single piece of advice coming from sports nutrition at it already, and failed. I’d slowly, depressingly failed for two decades. So how might I suddenly succeed? I’m sorry to break the narrative and potentially spoil the read at this point, but the ‘how’ what came next I’m going to save for a dedicated blog post (well, actually massive essay). Please forgive me for this, but it’s such a controversial topic that I am very concerned that I might be taken out of context, or seen as being flippant or glossing over important details in such an important issue. Also, and not least because the approach I took was precisely the one that many nutritionists warn is a path to outright failure in sport performance. So if you are interested in the ‘how’, it’s coming. For now, here’s what happened:
Phase one of me intervention was reading around 20 books and many hundreds of scientific papers and hundreds more webpages, so I had a handle on what I was doing. In phase two, I easily lost 3.5kgs in less than one month and my climbing standard took an immediate jump. I didn’t really get to test this other than on my board since it was the start of the winter. In phase 2, I maintained my new lower weight and felt great in training with much better energy and much to my surprise a few other long term health issues cleared up as well. During this time I managed to climb my model of Practice of the Wild. So I made it harder so I couldn’t do one of the first moves again and built up to being able to just climb it once at my limit.
In phase three of my dietary changes I dropped another 2.5Kgs, still feeling great and just before my trip to Magic Wood in April I could run laps on the model! When I arrived in Magic Wood I headed straight for Practice. I was somewhat bleary eyed after the long drive across Germany, but I could immediately feel I was much stronger on the moves. But it was on the second session, after a night’s sleep that reality hit - I could link it straight away to the last move! A huge leap in progress, and more than that a realisation that this was not a joke project. I could do this.
Since the start holds were still quite wet I spent time practicing the finishing big dyno a few times. On the third time I felt a sharp pain in my shoulder while holding the swing. “Oh no! Surely I’m not going to get injured now. Not now!!!” It didn’t feel that bad, but not good either. In hindsight I think I just scraped a rotator cuff tendon a bit. But I was worried it might be a SLAP tear. Either way I was terrified of doing the move that way again.
So one night while it snowed about a foot, I broke trail into the wood, set up my lights and worked out another method. A huge cross through stab to a crimp, and then I could get the jug statically. It was maybe a tiny bit harder, but I could do the move several times in isolation.
I had one more session of redpoints to the last move every time. One time I held it and my lower hand pinged off. I knew it could happen next session. But I also knew this could get harder psychologically - playing defensively creates pressure. When all you have to do is not blow your chance, somehow this becomes much harder to avoid!
Sure enough, next session I felt inexplicably a few % weaker. Two mistake riddled brawls to the last move, falling weakly. One fall from lower down. Then a hole opened in my finger. It was unravelling! I’d surely need two days to let the hole heal up, then the rain was coming. Practice of the Wild can stay wet for weeks at a time. I spent half and hour repeatedly doing the last move, systematically trying every tweak in the movement I could think of. I came upon a small improvement. If I pulled up a little higher and went for the move without dropping down so much (more of a snatch than a lunge), it felt a tiny bit more solid. I went for a walk. Looking at my shredded fingers, I figured I wanted one more try that day from the start. If I was going to take two days off and potentially more after the rain, what did it matter if my fingers were totally trashed?
Whatever happened in that moment, the pressure of anticipation for that session dissipating, the walk warming me up a bit, my skin hitting that sweet spot of friction just before it gets too thin, whatever, everything clicked. As soon as I pulled on I felt good. The moves flowed by and I arrived and the last move not feeling anything. It wasn’t until I felt my fingers bite into the crimp that I woke up and realised it was on. I breathed to force me to take my time setting my feet, and then grabbed the massive jug.
Done.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0-OzdaKfHRk/VydDJKKiAFI/AAAAAAAAEEA/Sr0Pcz3WRc0-_qIw5Zh4o2ZWvc7cZs7UQCLcB/s640/Practicestill4.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0-OzdaKfHRk/VydDJKKiAFI/AAAAAAAAEEA/Sr0Pcz3WRc0-_qIw5Zh4o2ZWvc7cZs7UQCLcB/s1600/Practicestill4.jpg)
Video still of going for the jug on the last move on the successful attempt. I'll post up a video of it when it's ready.
None of this matters to anyone except me. And only two things about it really matter to me. Firstly, Practice of the Wild is a brilliant piece of climbing, and by being hard enough to give me a good battle, I was able to enjoy it all the more. Secondly, I had to make real progress in my climbing to do it. Well okay one more thing matters, I had to use my brain to figure out how to make the progress. The battle was won while sitting on my ass at 2am with square eyes reading obscure papers on cellular metabolism. There is more to climbing than just pulling on holds.
Footnote: I’m always a bit sensitive writing about weight and climbing. Personally, I think writing about it and being open is much better and healthier than being secretive. But I know disordered eating and inappropriate food restriction happens in climbing and it’s a problem. In my view we’ve got to be open about when it’s appropriate to look at weight as a priority for training for climbing. As I said above, I have a post coming on the ‘how’ of my training intervention. It’s a highly controversial and polarised topic that needs handling with care. So even in that post I’ll be urging you to listen to the whole body of research out there, not just one voice. But from this post if you take anything away from it regarding weight in climbing, let it be these three simple points:
1. I spent months and probably 1000s of hours studying vast quantities of scientific research and discussion before doing anything.
2. I used a strategy for weight loss which does not involve being hungry, or anything other than eating high quality real food.
3. I am a 37 year old male who had a tyre around my waist. My individual story is relevant to me, not you. Fat loss tends to be effective in climbers with excessive amounts of fat. It can be seriously performance negative (at the very least) in those who do not carry excess fat, or people who are growing or have other health conditions. This leads back to point one - start from an informed position.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D_X0oLpimaI/VydEHJUGuiI/AAAAAAAAEEM/-vnlr-wmrRQQW550PYCS9Ld0mABUnfcKwCLcB/s640/steppenwolf2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D_X0oLpimaI/VydEHJUGuiI/AAAAAAAAEEM/-vnlr-wmrRQQW550PYCS9Ld0mABUnfcKwCLcB/s1600/steppenwolf2.jpg)
Climbing Steppenwolf (8B) in three tries.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/dprpx-MYh-w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good blog post
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had a tyre around my waist
I call horseshit on that. Kinda annoying when already skinny climbers go on about this shit when they don't know what real weight issues are like.
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I call horseshit on that. Kinda annoying when already skinny climbers go on about this shit when they don't know what real weight issues are like.
I remember seeing Dave at TCA once, 4+ years ago. I was pretty disappointed as in his videos he looked quite tall and stocky but in person he was built like a pre-pubescent male (read as very, very slim) and quite short.
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had a tyre around my waist
I call horseshit on that. Kinda annoying when already skinny climbers go on about this shit when they don't know what real weight issues are like.
This isn't 'obese: a year to save my life' this is a guy climbing 8C. I don't think he is claiming he had a 'real weight issue', he is claiming he lost some weight and managed to go from 8B+ to 8C which seems pretty likely.
I made huge gains by losing weight and I was not overweight before. I was able to lose weight in a healthy way, but there is obviously a fine line. Athletes in general are notorious for sometimes stepping over that line, not just climbers, but I don't doubt the Dave has some idea about what he is doing and is being pretty honest here.
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I'm with Fiend on this one.
His words are quite clear. I've been following MacLeod since his Dumbarton cameo in - what was that? Stick it? And I can't remember him with a tyre around his belly. I could go on with lots of puns here but I won't.
The tyre was probably more in his mind than on his belly, in the meaning that he felt that the extra weight was hindering him a lot. He's always played with weight, the thing that pisses me off is that he complains about being heavy, when in fact he's not.
In any case if the price to pay for 8C bouldering is to look like him, well I for sure won't pay it.
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Good to see that fat cunt kept off the battered mars bars long enough to pull himself up an 8c.
In all seriousness though, he's fairly clear there that he talking about being at "the high fat end of the Font 8B+ or harder cohort", not the high fat end of the average UK highstreet. It's a blog about performance climbing. We could also get the violins out about his trip to magic wood where he "only" got up an 8a, but it's a blog about performance climbing, the baseline is different. This is a far cry from the days of jerry eating only a lettuce all week and microwaving his chalk to get up the Dominator.
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WOAH wait a minute.....does microwaving chalk actually work?? :o :w00t:
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In any case if the price to pay for 8C bouldering is to look like him, well I for sure won't pay it.
He can diet all he likes Nibs but only genetics will grow a moustache you can be proud of.
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In any case if the price to pay for 8C bouldering is to look like him, well I for sure won't pay it.
It's not. Jimmy Webb has climbed 8C, Sharma put the problem up in he first place. Maybe you like their bodies more?
What Dave was saying (it seemed to me) it that he felt he had to do something different to make the step up as he's was training hard, training well and still wasn't where he wanted to be so FOR HIM, he decided to focus on changing his body composition and, FOR HIM, it worked.
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It's pretty obvious what he's saying, why are some people getting ate up about it?
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Because its a forum and people like avoiding work by getting hung up on minutiae and over-analysing the obvious.
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Dave used an extreme but carefully considered and methodically researched diet to take his bouldering a step further, no-one is arguing with nor criticising that.
However his phrasing of "wasn't a thin climber" and "beneath my tyre" is pure cobblers and not a fair way to phrase things.
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Could have been a road bike tyre?
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However his phrasing of "wasn't a thin climber" and "beneath my tyre" is pure cobblers and not a fair way to phrase things.
He'd already framed the whole discussion in terms of being relative to 8b+ climbers physiques, so those turns of phrase seem fine given the context of the whole thing.
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Fiend is pissed as he really does have a weight issue, and Nibs has had an issue with Dave Mac for ages.
don't think there's anything else going on here?
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However his phrasing of "wasn't a thin climber" and "beneath my tyre" is pure cobblers and not a fair way to phrase things.
His way of saying he felt he had some unnecessary fat he could afford to loose without getting to an unhealthily low weight, i.e. without loss of protein.
Maybe he could have done something else to get up 8C, but what he did do is loose 6kg. I imagine lugging 6kg up an 8C is pretty hard. If he is honest about the numbers, and no reason to say he isn't, then that isn't just in his mind.
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However his phrasing of "wasn't a thin climber" and "beneath my tyre" is pure cobblers and not a fair way to phrase things.
He'd already framed the whole discussion in terms of being relative to 8b+ climbers physiques, so those turns of phrase seem fine given the context of the whole thing.
Aye he was a right fat cunt compared to Dave Graham
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Exactly ::) ::) ::)
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I have no special issue with Dave Mac, that I don't have with any other people in the world. I've only pointed out, over time, that some times, in my opinion, he had "pissed out of the wc", to use an Italian saying.
I have no problem with him dieting. I simply would not have done it, even to climb 8c.
I am very interested into knowing how much he weighed before dieting.
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I have no problem with him dieting. I simply would not have done it, even to climb 8c.
I am very interested into knowing how much he weighed before dieting.
Strange given that you just posted this:
Power Club
STG - one board project, go and try the route at least once before Summer.
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Sun - more rest after a night on the wc... Lost three kilos. Let's jump on the project!
Just out of interest what is the difference between Dave Mac losing weight to get better and you losing weight and then deciding its time to try your project? Presumably Dave started lighter than you but also presumably Dave climbs harder than you?
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"pissed out of the wc", to use an Italian saying.
What does this mean?
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I am very interested into knowing how much he weighed before dieting.
He showed a graph of his weight on a previous blog about his 4th Wave 8B first ascent
http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/the-4th-wave-arisaig-project-done.html
Looks like he was around 66 kg in June 2015 and then between September and November dropped to around 62-63 kg. I'm assuming this is what "In phase two, I easily lost 3.5kgs in less than one month and my climbing standard took an immediate jump." is referring to in his recent post.
If that is the case, he would have been around the 60 kg mark when he sent Practice of the Wild.
edit: typo
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Out of interest does anyone know how tall Dave is?
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5th link on Google
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/athlete-bio-macleod-dave.html
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I have no problem with him dieting. I simply would not have done it, even to climb 8c.
I am very interested into knowing how much he weighed before dieting.
Strange given that you just posted this:
Power Club
STG - one board project, go and try the route at least once before Summer.
...
Sun - more rest after a night on the wc... Lost three kilos. Let's jump on the project!
Just out of interest what is the difference between Dave Mac losing weight to get better and you losing weight and then deciding its time to try your project? Presumably Dave started lighter than you but also presumably Dave climbs harder than you?
The difference is that I was joking!
I can't believe you took me seriously!
I also posted in the YYFY thread that I feel as weak as a malnourished kitten!
There's no way I can do anything on my board at the moment! :-)
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5th link on Google
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_GB/athlete-bio-macleod-dave.html
cheers :) I gave up after 4
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The difference is that I was joking!
I can't believe you took me seriously!
I also posted in the YYFY thread that I feel as weak as a malnourished kitten!
There's no way I can do anything on my board at the moment! :-)
Ah... my mistake
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"pissed out of the wc", to use an Italian saying.
What does this mean?
Saying or doing something wrong or out of place.
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English equivalent - "Shat on his own doorstep?"
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Nothing tastes as good as 8C feels
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English equivalent - "Shat on his own doorstep?"
No - that means if you're going to do dirty business, don't do it nearby: keep some distance.
Nibs - out of place how? Like being a bit weird, offensively so?
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English equivalent to piss out of the pot. You don't say things like this?
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Edited. Needless.
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My last post was a little unclear. I meant there is an English expression which is exactly the same, except use pot instead of wc.
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So Dave Mac was 5'8" and 66kg, so a BMI of 22, and dropped to 60kg or a BMI of 20. Still very much in the "normal" range. Daniel woods is 5'8" and i think he is about 130-135 as well. BFD
A few years ago I did an extract of climber data from 8a.nu for the top 100 ranked boulderers and the average BMI was about 20, route climbers was about 19. I think the highest BMI for boulderers in the top 100 was about 24, lowest was about 18.
By the way, I only use BMI because it creates a useful comparison of height to weight.
On a personal note, that means I only need to drop 44lbs to get to 8C :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Isn't BMI commonly regarded as an equal amount of horseshit for well muscled athletes.
Bear in mind that this is a man who used to run up Ben Nevis for a "rest day". I doubt his tyre compares to John Dunne or me or Fatneck or JackAus2014version or JamieG (is he the poster who is like 100kg and 7'8")....
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Useless as marker of health, useful in context of relative weight comparison.
What should he have said? We all know what he meant.
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Wow, that's strange to me! 172 x 66 kg pre diet, is basically my height and weight now, I'm 170 x 67 at the moment. But he already looked very small and thin! I'd have thought he was around 62, nothing more. :shrug:
He either had very big legs or really I don't know.
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You'd have to lose 2.5kg to be comparable Nibs. pretty significant I reckon.
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You'd have to lose 2.5kg to be comparable Nibs. pretty significant I reckon.
Yes of course, in terms of fighting weight for sure. But I was just referring to his look. He looked so thin that I would have never imagined he was 66!
Incidentally, until one year ago, before starting my lifting cure, I was exactly 2 kilos lighter than now, at 65, the same weight I've had for ages. But I don't think I looked as slim as Dave. Maybe he's made of very dense stuff.
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Maybe he's made of very dense stuff.
Or theres some optical distortion going on from whatever lense is being used to film.
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Not sure I was clear, you said he was (pre diet) basically the same weight and height as you, but the differences are significant. You're both shorter and heavier than he was. To have the same bmi (worthwhile comparative measure here, given you're both athletic), at your height you'd need to weigh 64.5 kg, a significant drop, and I guess would make a noticeable difference to how you look.
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English equivalent to piss out of the pot. You don't say things like this?
My last post was a little unclear. I meant there is an English expression which is exactly the same, except use pot instead of wc.
I've never heard the expression. Are you confusing it with "not having a pot to piss in?"
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Not sure I was clear, you said he was (pre diet) basically the same weight and height as you, but the differences are significant. You're both shorter and heavier than he was. To have the same bmi (worthwhile comparative measure here, given you're both athletic), at your height you'd need to weigh 64.5 kg, a significant drop, and I guess would make a noticeable difference to how you look.
Ah, ok. Anyway I've been steady at 65 for ages, as I wrote just before you posted, but I still looked beefier.
It was just a curiosity though, nothing important.
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Best blog post ever? What a story. Recovery from injury to do one of the World's hardest and lots of insights.
Having seen him in the flesh its hard to imagine where he lost the weight from and how so cant wait for the follow on post.
I knew it could happen next session. But I also knew this could get harder psychologically - playing defensively creates pressure. When all you have to do is not blow your chance, somehow this becomes much harder to avoid!
Ain't that the truth
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No shark I'm not, there's any myriad of expressions with the same premise. On another note Dave and Daniel may be 5'8 if stood on a step. The only way they've seen 5'8 is by looking up
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Not everybody is as light/heavy as they look.
When I complain about being a bit too heavy, most people (including other climbers) consistently underestimate my weight- they would say something less than my "performance weight" and in some occasions even less than my post-puberty lightest.
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"pissed out of the wc", to use an Italian saying.
What does this mean?
Saying or doing something wrong or out of place.
English equivalent to piss out of the pot. You don't say things like this?
My last post was a little unclear. I meant there is an English expression which is exactly the same, except use pot instead of wc.
I've never heard the expression. Are you confusing it with "not having a pot to piss in?"
No shark I'm not, there's any myriad of expressions with the same premise.
It is now vital that I get this idiomatic earworm straight (for my own sanity). For both expressions are we talking about someone standing in a wc and pissing out of it which would be a totally weird and inappropriate thing to do. Or are we talking about someone standing in a conventional place and pissing out(side) of the pot ie missing the target / point?.
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or are we talking about someone urinating on something that they value, rather than getting it all in the urinal?
eg, their own chips or a nice pair of shoes
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Excellent news. All I have to do to lose weight is to make sure I piss anywhere but in the toilet. Glad that's clear.
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No change then.
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So Dave Mac was 5'8" and 66kg, so a BMI of 22, and dropped to 60kg or a BMI of 20. Still very much in the "normal" range. Daniel woods is 5'8" and i think he is about 130-135 as well. BFD
A few years ago I did an extract of climber data from 8a.nu for the top 100 ranked boulderers and the average BMI was about 20, route climbers was about 19. I think the highest BMI for boulderers in the top 100 was about 24, lowest was about 18.
By the way, I only use BMI because it creates a useful comparison of height to weight.
On a personal note, that means I only need to drop 44lbs to get to 8C :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
That's a pretty interesting way of looking at it.
If you go with the 10 global boulders on 8a.spray, their average BMI is 21.6 (or their abouts), they have all climbed 8C except Matt Fultz who ironically has one of the highest BMI @ 23.2.
I guess it would be interesting to figure out what is more important, body fat % or body composition (i.e. you could have someone with very low body fat but massive muscles and therefore has a relatively high BMI)
Food for thought!
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Did someone say food? :doubt:
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No change then.
Adjust your aim. Or spray...
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No shark I'm not, there's any myriad of expressions with the same premise. On another note Dave and Daniel may be 5'8 if stood on a step. The only way they've seen 5'8 is by looking up
Correct, 172cm isn't 5'8" its more like 5'6" which at 60kgs still makes him heavier than the likes of Mclure.
(I haven't met Mclod in person I'm just going by google.)
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172cm= 5 foot 7.7 inches......
Correct, 172cm isn't 5'8" its more like 5'6" which at 60kgs still makes him heavier than the likes of Mclure.
(I haven't met Mclod in person I'm just going by google.)
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Excellent news. All I have to do to lose weight is to make sure I piss anywhere but in the toilet. Glad that's clear.
would climbing 8c be sufficient compensation for having a piss-covered bathroom?
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Excellent news. All I have to do to lose weight is to make sure I piss anywhere but in the toilet. Glad that's clear.
On the contrary, you need to get off the pot or piss in it and providing you do piss in it and not out of it then everything will be piss.
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Did we ever get any example of when Dave pissed outside the pot, defining the idiom aside?
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Climbing 8c would never compensate me for missing out on being a dad, but 8c isn't even a pipe dream for me :)
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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is the pot for pregnancy testing? pissing outside of it being an attempt to dodge the issue?
that would be the equivalent of "pissing past the stick"
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Not everybody is as light/heavy as they look.
When I complain about being a bit too heavy, most people (including other climbers) consistently underestimate my weight- they would say something less than my "performance weight" and in some occasions even less than my post-puberty lightest.
Same here
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People assume I'm heavier than I am, when I complain about being a bit on the heavy side, even though 63kg is really heavy for me. 63kg is considered light for someone 5'6" north of the border though :)
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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Very interesting blog, amazing ascent.
I wonder what's made the biggest difference, if it's training on a replica on the board for a long period of time, the loss of body fat and weight or the change in main energy source which id imagine is fat judging by the diet. It could maybe be physiological too? Weight loss/fat loss must give confidence.
All I know is I'm 5,8 and weight 72.5kg which makes me a tubby git
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I don't know much about this topic but is there such a thing as non-visible weight which can be lost? Like people with layers of fat underneath their muscles etc.?
I recently lost 9kg over a week or two mostly due to an illness similar to what Nibs must have had. I don't look all that different, maybe slightly smaller.
Only difference I feel is pull-ups feel slightly easier. Weird given I've been off climbing for almost a month.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yes. Visceral fat. My scales give a reading for it.
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I seriously doubt that any relevant amount of visceral fat can be lost unless you're in a coffin or seriously overweight.. Fast weight losses during illnesses are usually mostly due to dehidration.
I still have to recover completely on this side, but yesterday after training I looked like a walking anatomy chart. I looked juiced. But didn't like the experience that led to this...
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No shark I'm not, there's any myriad of expressions with the same premise. On another note Dave and Daniel may be 5'8 if stood on a step. The only way they've seen 5'8 is by looking up
Correct, 172cm isn't 5'8" its more like 5'6" which at 60kgs still makes him heavier than the likes of Mclure.
(I haven't met Mclod in person I'm just going by google.)
Careful. Cowboyhat has carefully recalibrated the height chart to make his 181cm clearly over 6ft. He's very particular about it.
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dehydration
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172cm= 5 foot 7.7 inches......
Correct, 172cm isn't 5'8" its more like 5'6" which at 60kgs still makes him heavier than the likes of Mclure.
(I haven't met Mclod in person I'm just going by google.)
I'm big enough (182, LEGIT!), to admit that I made a mistake. I read '5.6' feet as '5'6"' which clearly it is not.
Dave Mclod might be a strong 5'7", similar height to notable short arse Tom Cruise.
I can't stop thinking about his fatty tyre though. What a little fatty. Sitting on his lawn crying about the Scottish referendum comfort eating.
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lol, noshing down on skirlie, haggis with neaps and tatties, cullen skink and for afters tablet and deep fried mars bars, washed down with irn bru.
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Lard arse would be more accurate given his new diet of fat and protein.
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I appear to have somehow linked into the Driffield weight watchers Facebook page.
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I appear to have somehow linked into the Driffield weight watchers Facebook page.
Said the actress to the Bishop...
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Risk taking (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TSw-8eNaYo0/risk-taking.html)
24 May 2016, 11:29 pm
Risk taking is something that continually fascinates me. It used to occupy my mind mainly in the context of running it out on scary trad routes. These days, more and more, I think of my risk taking in this environment as being quite simple most of the time. I either want to do the climb enough and feel able and willing to commit to it, or I don’t. Risk taking decisions in climbing are often quite formulaic. You put the pieces of information you have through the algorithm, and then churn out the decision. The spaces between the information get filled with intuition borne from experience (of past mistakes). Where you know you are relying on intuition, you must accept its limitations and be ready to escape as best you can if the adventure goes bad. If there is no intuition, no spaces between the data, there isn’t much excitement. Sport becomes robotic and dull.
More interesting are the more complex risks of life. Where the proportion of fragments of useful signal in the noise of unknowns are much scarcer. If I eat this, am I getting slightly more dead, or slightly closer to 8C? Will my life be better if I stay in the European Union? Given that the world is still turning after George W, will the end befall us under Donald Trump?
Still more tricky are parental decisions. My daughter balances along a wall. My head tells me there is only one way to learn about height: landing from a height. Better learning from a 3 foot drop than 30 foot. But learning carries the risk of things not working out well. There is no way around this. Avoiding short term risk during learning creates bigger risks later on. It’s why the rates of kids fractures go up, not down, when they replace the concrete with rubber flooring in play parks. Risky play is a serious business, of learning.
It was a year and a half ago now, but readers of this blog will remember that my take-home message (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/what-have-we-done.html) from the referendum campaign for independence here in Scotland was that I resolved to be as fearless as possible in as many areas of my life as I could. I was left with a strong desire to rail against bias for the status quo until you have a path of solid data laid before you (data which can never be got without taking the leap and running the experiment). It colours my approach to many things, in my view in a good way. But I’ll not be offended if you read this and think differently. My perspective is that our norms are way too skewed in the direction of reluctance to experiment and take risks, and by pushing back against this, we get closer to an optimum balance. In other words, the tide of societal norms and especially media economics is constantly dragging us towards fearfulness. While the tide moves in this direction, we have to swim in the other direction, even just to stand still. I’m writing this post as much as anything to remind myself to keep up that resolve. I try every day, sometimes succeeding, sometimes badly failing. Failing is allowed. Failing to try is inexcusable.
As I get older I understand more and more that I have an appetite for taking risks in certain situations, even if the odds are not great. I don’t take stupid risks. You’ll never catch me in a bookmakers, for example. I’m also not that attached to the thrill of taking risks. I still get a wee bit scared to phone people I don’t know and things like that. I get no kick out of random risks, purely taken for the thrill. But if I’m curious about an outcome, I’ll gladly take a calculated risk to find out what will happen. In fact, I’ll find it harder not to take the risk. I find the status-quo an uncomfortable, stressful place. But pure indulgence of curiosity is not the only strand of motivation for risk taking for me. The need for change is another.
I heard an interesting quote the other day that there are only two things that drive significant change in a persons life; abject misery or profound inspiration.
If this is indeed true, then it is interesting because either will do. If you don’t have the inspiration, misery in its various forms will do just fine in its place. Maybe it’s just me but I feel myself getting gradually less tolerant of a part of our culture that is tyrannised by the need for data. I’m all for evidence, and the use of useful data. But life is full of unknowns - incomplete or absent data. Quite often the only way to get data is to go ahead and try, and learn the hard way. This is the rub for me - aversion to exploring areas with little data only succeeds in getting less data. If you are a data fiend, then the places where data does not exist are those that will feed your habit for more data.
If someone says “lets not try this until we have evidence”. The next question should be “can we get the evidence without trying it?” Life is far to short to get stuck in this dilemma all the time.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/TSw-8eNaYo0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Weirdly, climbers almost never manage to talk cogently about risk - that post is a real exception.
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Although it is written from the perspective of someone at the very, very extreme edge of climbing attitude in terms of a rigourous and scientific approach - and also someone who seems, from previous scenarious, to do a vast amount of research (and hence data) before committing to a path of action.
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Risk taking (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TSw-8eNaYo0/risk-taking.html)
24 May 2016, 11:29 pm
If you are a data fiend, then the places where data does not exist are those that will feed your habit for more data.
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
Fiend, I can't believe Dave is now writing his blogs personally for you!
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Although it is written from the perspective of someone at the very, very extreme edge of climbing attitude in terms of a rigourous and scientific approach - and also someone who seems, from previous scenarious, to do a vast amount of research (and hence data) before committing to a path of action.
You aren't suggesting a degree of cognitive dissonance in dave's writing are you?
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I find it helps to read Dave's posts in a Glaswegian ascent...
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Risk taking (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/TSw-8eNaYo0/risk-taking.html)
24 May 2016, 11:29 pm
If you are a data fiend, then the places where data does not exist are those that will feed your habit for more data.
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
Fiend, I can't believe Dave is now writing his blogs personally for you!
he's using "fiend" as a derogatory term for someone who is a bit of a twunt - you know like people used to use "gay" or "faggot"
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I find it helps to read Dave's posts in a Glaswegian ascent...
Maybe he could get Irvine Welsh to ghost write it
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Good post, resonates with my outlook.
Although it's interesting to me to note that in the genre of climbing- trad onsighting - where success is the most heavily relient on what Dave's talking about i.e. calculated risk, optimistic mindset and not being the personality type prone to succumbing to the need for ever more data, isn't Dave Mc's trad onsighting not particularly strong relative to his other strengths? I seem to remember reading he onsights E7 (? someone correct me) which isn't at all extraordinary these days especially compared to his rehearsed level...
Completely agree with his overall point though. The world I inhabit seems to me full to the brim with academics (ukb being no exception) who can convincingly argue a theoretical point to death, back it up with endless data, and give you 101 reasons why what you think may not be entirely 100% correct... all seemingly in pursuit of simply displaying knowledge for no other reason than displaying it. Which is nice as far as it goes but I find myself thinking these people probably won't ever do much extraordinary, progressive, creative, out of the box etc. because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
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Fiend, I can't believe Dave is now writing his blogs personally for you!
No - he is writing it for me and I now feel vindicated about my intention to vote for Brexit despite everyone else I know (it seems) taking the opposite view
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because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
Ha! You mean they disagree with you.
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because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
Ha! You mean they disagree with you.
It happens a lot :-\
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No it doesn't
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because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
Ha! You mean they disagree with you.
Ha! No. I know what I meant but perhaps didn't say it very well. As long as Shark's disagreeing with me I know I'm on the right path.
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Good post, resonates with my outlook.
Although it's interesting to me to note that in the genre of climbing- trad onsighting - where success is the most heavily relient on what Dave's talking about i.e. calculated risk, optimistic mindset and not being the personality type prone to succumbing to the need for ever more data, isn't Dave Mc's trad onsighting not particularly strong relative to his other strengths? I seem to remember reading he onsights E7 (? someone correct me) which isn't at all extraordinary these days especially compared to his rehearsed level...
I thought the exact same thing. I'm pretty sure you are correct in saying he has onsighted E7 but I don't feel like it is a regular occurence as it is for people like Caff. Maybe in Scotland they are a bit more gnarly/unknown...
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And that wasn't meant as any sort of slight toward D.M. in case anyone wondered. It's just one of the obvious things that stands out from that post. It looks as if Dave is happiest in his own comfort zones of rehearsed summer and winter ascents - 'comfort zone' being relative obv and way outside most peoples! Where he seems to apply the theory is more it seems to me in lifestyle choices and less in his climbing - choosing to spend his life earning a living from climbing for e.g. Choosing to write and self-publish books for a living is another.
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Completely agree with his overall point though. The world I inhabit seems to me full to the brim with academics (ukb being no exception) who can convincingly argue a theoretical point to death, back it up with endless data, and give you 101 reasons why what you think may not be entirely 100% correct... all seemingly in pursuit of simply displaying knowledge for no other reason than displaying it. Which is nice as far as it goes but I find myself thinking these people probably won't ever do much extraordinary, progressive, creative, out of the box etc. because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
Whilst that may be what you feel, it wasn't Dave's overall point. Dave is musing over what the correct course of action is when there's little evidence either way. You seem to be ranting against people who have an opinion and "back it up with endless data".
I get desperately sick in the real world of people who choose to ignore strong evidence and argument because it doesn't fit with their world view. Adjusting your world view in the face of compelling argument is not reverting to the mean. And it hardly inhibits creativity it just stops you wasting your time on dead ends.
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Weirdly, climbers almost never manage to talk cogently about risk - that post is a real exception.
I've noticed this as well but I've always thought it natural. An inability to think coherently about risk is either a vital asset (or a crippling impediment) for a climber.
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You might have a point Stu. I used to take pretty large amounts of risk but was very good at thinking I wasn't taking much at all - all reinforced by experience (for as long as nothing went wrong).
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It's always struck me that there aren't that many serious incidents (say breaks with long term consequences and deaths) involving climbers at the higher end of trad climbing (or any kind of rock climbing). Taking an empirical approach, aggregating experience, perhaps most rock climbers become very good at controlling risk and aren't in fact therefore taking as big a risk as some think they are?
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I get desperately sick in the real world of people who choose to ignore strong evidence and argument because it doesn't fit with their world view. Adjusting your world view in the face of compelling argument is not reverting to the mean. And it hardly inhibits creativity it just stops you wasting your time on dead ends.
I agree whole-heartedly with this: when the data is there to demonstrate that what people assume with their gut instinct is wrong, and people argue against using the data because they'd rather not have their assumptions challenged, it's incredibly frustrating.
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Completely agree with his overall point though. The world I inhabit seems to me full to the brim with academics (ukb being no exception) who can convincingly argue a theoretical point to death, back it up with endless data, and give you 101 reasons why what you think may not be entirely 100% correct... all seemingly in pursuit of simply displaying knowledge for no other reason than displaying it. Which is nice as far as it goes but I find myself thinking these people probably won't ever do much extraordinary, progressive, creative, out of the box etc. because they've been immunised by knowledge to revert to the mean (the status quo) and against following their gut.
While that may be what you feel, it wasn't Dave's overall point. Dave is musing over what the correct course of action is when there's little evidence either way. You seem to be ranting against people who have an opinion and "back it up with endless data".
I get desperately sick in the real world of people who choose to ignore strong evidence and argument because it doesn't fit with their world view. Adjusting your world view in the face of compelling argument is not reverting to the mean. And it hardly inhibits creativity it just stops you wasting your time on dead ends.
A strong argument and compelling evidence is great and I don't disagree with you. But you're mistaking what I wrote as a rant against this. I'm not. I'm talking about there being too much data in general. Today there is so much data, much of it 'compelling' backing up competing viewpoints that it's common for arguments to get mired in trading competing data. The Eu referendum, Scottish referendum, NHS contracts are three recent examples of there being a distinct lack of clear strong arguments, but lots of seemingly compelling data from either side - sounds great in theory but as has been discovered in various studies (see...) people in general aren't wired to intuitively understand data where lots of figures/stats are involved - why the term 'follow your gut' still has meaning in this tech age.
It's been mentioned a lot recently by various commentators - the sense of information overload in recent debates. There's too much conflicting data. Hence my 'full to the brim with people eager to explain via 101 reasons why you aren't correct' comment.
You search for planets so obviously data is king. Most of life isn't that clear cut. And where studies in social sciences show something, what about the view that so much research is being published for the wrong reasons. You must be aware of that?
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I've noticed this as well but I've always thought it natural. An inability to think coherently about risk is either a vital asset (or a crippling impediment) for a climber.
I've always assumed that's because very good and experienced climbers are better at, well... climbing, and almost never fall on iffy gear. In Elbsandstein e.g. there are lots of routes where if you fall you probably die. People die from leader falls all the time there (see http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gipfel.php?sektorid=131 for just one sector in Elbsandsteingebirge [a cross for every death, a nurse for every hospitalisation]), but rarely very good climbers.
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It's always struck me that there aren't that many serious incidents (say breaks with long term consequences and deaths) involving climbers at the higher end of trad climbing (or any kind of rock climbing). Taking an empirical approach, aggregating experience, perhaps most rock climbers become very good at controlling risk and aren't in fact therefore taking as big a risk as some think they are?
:agree:
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People die from leader falls all the time there (see http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gipfel.php?sektorid=131 for just one sector in Elbsandsteingebirge [a cross for every death, a nurse for every hospitalisation]), but rarely very good climbers.
Blimey, that's a bit grim!
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It's always struck me that there aren't that many serious incidents (say breaks with long term consequences and deaths) involving climbers at the higher end of trad climbing (or any kind of rock climbing). Taking an empirical approach, aggregating experience, perhaps most rock climbers become very good at controlling risk and aren't in fact therefore taking as big a risk as some think they are?
This.
And without linking to the stats here (easy to find), climbing is remarkably safe compared to many more "mainstream" sports like cycling and Horseriding.
Possibly the control remains with the participants more in our world?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I spoke to all of my climbing friends and none of them had been killed climbing, so I conclude it is extremely safe.
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Glad to hear. Five of my climbing friends cannot be reached any longer after fatal accidents.
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I think it's very different in the mountaineering community. I remember reading a book by Messner or someone similar saying that about half of their climbing friends were dead by the stage in their life when they were writing about it.
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I spoke to all of my climbing friends and none of them had been killed climbing, so I conclude it is extremely safe.
Are they sure?
I think it's very different in the mountaineering community. I remember reading a book by Messner or someone similar saying that about half of their climbing friends were dead by the stage in their life when they were writing about it.
I don't know, but would guess, this is more likely to be avalanche / altitude / weather related (external factors) than falls? Whereas Rock Climbers are less susceptible to such things?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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I think it's very different in the mountaineering community. I remember reading a book by Messner or someone similar saying that about half of their climbing friends were dead by the stage in their life when they were writing about it.
I don't know, but would guess, this is more likely to be avalanche / altitude / weather related (external factors) than falls? Whereas Rock Climbers are less susceptible to such things?
Yes, absolutely. Also, a lot of those risks are more out of a climber's control, apart from choosing whether to go out in a particular forecast etc. But, those may be comparable to risks to rock climbers such as rockfall
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I've lost a few friends through climbing related accidents but none were doing anything hard / "dangerous".
I was talking to Smythe about just this thing the other week and the only conclusion we could come to was that you're more likely to fuck up when you're not totally focused. Confirmed by him then telling me about almost dying at the Virgin gym recently by climbing an entire route on the steeper bit without clipping in and having to reverse to the ground....... grim.
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I've lost a few friends through climbing related accidents but none were doing anything hard / "dangerous".
I was talking to Smythe about just this thing the other week and the only conclusion we could come to was that you're more likely to fuck up when you're not totally focused. Confirmed by him then telling me about almost dying at the Virgin gym recently by climbing an entire route on the steeper bit without clipping in and having to reverse to the ground....... grim.
That made my palms sweat.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Yes why would anyone climb at virgin? Savage
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middle class problems
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AAAAARRGGH! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/UXXyUcDT5Vg/aaaaarrggh.html)
27 May 2016, 11:54 pm
Practice of the Wild (https://vimeo.com/168060878) from MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT (https://vimeo.com/mountainequipment) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Above is the film of me climbing Practice of the Wild 8C in Switzerland the other week. The whole experience of that trip went pretty well. I had a good focus, good training and ended up doing not just the big goal, but almost everything else on my wishlist as well. I normally make pretty ambitious wish lists for trips and so if I manage even one of them I’m doing well. So I came home quite inspired to try and repeat the process.
However, your focus has to fall into line with what the conditions of the moment dictate. I wanted to climb one more boulder problem project back in Scotland, before the summer heat arrived. With many things to catch up on since I arrived home, I only got two chances to get on it. Last week I went up in not great conditions and almost did it. Yesterday I had another chance but couldn’t get away till late in the evening. My plan was to drive up, walk in and have a night session on it with the lights. But when I arrived in the car park at 10pm I felt too tired and decided just to sleep and go up early in the morning.
Next morning I walked in to find the project roasting hot, in full sun with no wind. No chance. I deluded myself for ten minutes and tried to warm up for it but quickly confirmed that bouldering season, at least for something as hard as this project, is now over.
So I packed up, turned around, and walked out, cursing myself for not managing to make this project happen while I had the form to actually climb it. I’ll just have to hope I still feel strong in the autumn, although by then I’ll be preparing for a 9a endurance route. I drove home rather frustrated, behind caravans.
Much as the failure is unpleasant in the short term, a kick in the ass is what I need now, to force me to move on, re-focus and prepare for what I want to climb next. One of the many lessons I learn about my climbing over and over again is that I do best with a clear focus rather than trying whatever. For the summer trad season, I have various ideas for hard projects to look at, but nothing I’ve actually been on yet. Next week I should have a chance to go and look at the first one or two of these potential new routes.
So for now I can only have a very short term focus - to start to claw back some endurance. I've been on the circuits, to try and turn myself into a route climber again. 3 sessions in, I already feel some progress and it’s actually really nice to climb more than 10 moves in a row.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/UXXyUcDT5Vg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Excellent vid
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Excellent vid
Agreed, the training and climbing overlays were spot on
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North By North West, direct (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/eNl0P150IGk/north-by-north-west-direct.html)
9 June 2016, 3:01 pm
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nlpDCKLR_jA/V1lyuadCYkI/AAAAAAAAEE0/Z4gZAMmWN_4qL29BdO-Z398vKHGcHZGFQCLcB/s640/NNW+2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nlpDCKLR_jA/V1lyuadCYkI/AAAAAAAAEE0/Z4gZAMmWN_4qL29BdO-Z398vKHGcHZGFQCLcB/s1600/NNW+2.jpg)
Racing ahead of my chasing pack of midges to arrive at the roof on North by North West direct (E7 6b). From here you swing wildly left along the lip and get cracking on the big wall above.
Last week I decided to teach myself the lesson for a third time that boulder project season is over. I know, I’m a slow learner. However, to be fair I still almost pulled off my project. Since then I have been trying to get my endurance off the floor. One place on my project list was The Bonaidh Donn near Torridon, not an often visited crag I don’t think. Which is a shame because although it’s quite far from the road it’s really good.
There is one hard route there - an excellent sounding E7 of Stork’s called North by North West. It does a 5c first pitch and then traverses out above a roof to enter this wild finger crack soaring up an overhanging wall. I guessed a direct entry through the roof could be a good project. I went up and abseiled down for a look. Unfortunately the roof was blank. But there was obvious potential to come into the line along the lip of the roof from the right making a more direct single pitch version of the climb, probably at the same grade.
I went up on a super hot day with Alicia to have a go. After doing some other routes the midge appeared and the conditions were ridiculously bad. We sat with our hoods on and I contemplated the futility of trying it in full midge and heat. But I just don’t like going home without the route in the bag. So we went down and I tied in. In order that I didn’t melt, I was forced to take my midge hood and long sleeve top off to start up the initial wall. This provided about E7 6c midge factor scraping tons of midges off my arms while trying to get a first runner in. Things thankfully got more breezy by the roof and I was able to immensely enjoy the rest of the route, which didn’t feel too hard.
Great start to the trad season.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G9AAvjuAgMo/V1lyWj6cVjI/AAAAAAAAEEk/9D8qAP2paUkZHlPJRfoSIdWeQ6GrX4CFQCLcB/s640/NNW+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G9AAvjuAgMo/V1lyWj6cVjI/AAAAAAAAEEk/9D8qAP2paUkZHlPJRfoSIdWeQ6GrX4CFQCLcB/s1600/NNW+1.jpg)
Alicia following 'Stoater' (Severe). The wall of North by North West can be seen in the background.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HNSCUIVKccY/V1ly0gyGi9I/AAAAAAAAEE8/CcZXd57KUCwulTiO69pprCCZYg1zb3LpQCLcB/s640/NNW+4.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HNSCUIVKccY/V1ly0gyGi9I/AAAAAAAAEE8/CcZXd57KUCwulTiO69pprCCZYg1zb3LpQCLcB/s1600/NNW+4.jpg)
Alicia trying not to feed the midges
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mV2nJEAZHGw/V1ly5jAN44I/AAAAAAAAEFE/GEZlYV3-f_Y3Al59iIv2N6S98sI6ZgbQQCLcB/s640/NNW+5.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mV2nJEAZHGw/V1ly5jAN44I/AAAAAAAAEFE/GEZlYV3-f_Y3Al59iIv2N6S98sI6ZgbQQCLcB/s1600/NNW+5.jpg)
High on North by North West. Great line.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvITBWBoVQQ/V1lyXPIVzNI/AAAAAAAAEEo/oZlnnM_PVbsbefyFFsAlBJSiO3u8GKjYACLcB/s640/NNW+3.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BvITBWBoVQQ/V1lyXPIVzNI/AAAAAAAAEEo/oZlnnM_PVbsbefyFFsAlBJSiO3u8GKjYACLcB/s1600/NNW+3.jpg)
Good sunset beyond Loch Maree and the Minch
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/eNl0P150IGk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New sponsor - La Sportiva! (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iQNEZrgnbZg/new-sponsor-la-sportiva.html)
19 June 2016, 11:41 pm
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_SB2nQvN6M/V2cc3uGrPGI/AAAAAAAAEFs/d3-t9W-yb7MacjnO4r42TJOfiJVyI-tWwCLcB/s640/Davesportivaboots+1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0_SB2nQvN6M/V2cc3uGrPGI/AAAAAAAAEFs/d3-t9W-yb7MacjnO4r42TJOfiJVyI-tWwCLcB/s1600/Davesportivaboots+1.jpg)
Training in my new La Sportiva Otakis earlier today
I’m delighted to say I have joined the athlete team of La Sportiva (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/val-di-fiemme-italy/) after meeting the guys at Lyon Equipment last week. I don’t think it is news to any readers of this blog that I am pretty obsessive about the details in pushing my climbing and in optimising every aspect of it. So if I’m obsessive about climbing gear in general, when it comes to footwear, especially rock shoes, I take it to another level.
And why wouldn’t you? In rock climbing, the shoe on your foot becomes part of the machine. Your climbing style changes to match it. Anyone who's read 9 out of 10 (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/9outof10climbers.html) and Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html) knows my views on how important it is to get this right. But even if you follow good practice with choosing your rock shoes (trying on many pairs until you find something that fits your feet well) there is still the issue that individual models sometimes change, and your favoured model is no longer around. However, one lasting rule is that expert shoe manufacturers, with a long track record of designing and constructing high quality shoes can be relied upon to keep producing great designs.
I’d been deliberating about linking up with a footwear sponsor for some time. La Sportiva was the manufacturer in my mind to speak to. I got a great delivery of La Sportiva shoes earlier this week and obviously couldn’t wait to try them out. Over the past few days I’ve been climbing on very steep ground, first on a boulder project and then some sport climbing. I tend to prefer stiffer shoes than most, but I also like a good downturn. My favourite shoe so far for this type of climbing has been the new Otaki (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/climbing/climbing-details/products/otaki/#.V2cds2NkjdQ) (I’m wearing in the pics) which is just out. They are brilliant for applying huge amounts of tension through a tiny foothold on steep ground and feel very compact and responsive on my feet. The overall ‘feel’ of a rock shoe definitely influences how you move on the rock and these feel secure, precise and just incredibly powerful on the vertical to 45 degree terrain I’ve climbed on them so far.
Although I still didn’t quite manage the boulder project I tried on my first outing with them (it is super hard for me!), they did feel fantastic and I could nearly do the project with some different foot beta I’d previously dismissed because I couldn’t get enough weight on my feet. The next day I did Remember to Roll (8b at Creag nan Luch) first redpoint in them and it felt pretty easy! Pretty good start.
Today I did a big training session on my board in them and they felt top notch on my entire cadre of hard problems and circuits on the 45 board. I’m always hesitant with hyperbole, but they did feel like I was getting a bit more body tension on these problems I know well than any other boot I’ve tried. You can take that with a pinch of salt since it’s a subjective comparison. But on the other hand, I know my board well, and I’m pretty sensitive to the differences between my many different rock shoes I’ve trained in over the years.
Obviously I’m also looking forward to climbing in La Sportiva’s winter boots this year, especially the Batura (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/mountaineering/mountaineering-man/mens/details/products/batura-20-gore-tex-2/?tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=3915&cHash=93c4bbbc18bdf6a3c7125d83f897d06c#.V2ceUmNkjdQ) and Ice Cube (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/mountaineering/mountaineering-man/mens/details/products/trango-ice-cube-tex/?tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=3915&cHash=27047d8cf3cfb12d56cbcd1a952e55f7#.V2ceNGNkjdQ). And I also feel a little coy about getting excited about new hillwalking boots. As a Scottish climber, my hill boots live in my car and I pretty much spend my waking life in either those or my rock shoes. If they are not super light, super comfortable and keep my feet nice and dry, my life would be a lot worse. I walked into my project on Skye in my new Trangos (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/mountaineering/mountaineering-man/mens/details/products/trango-s-evo-gore-tex/?tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=3915&cHash=706fda01165ddea1939e1a599dd5eb98#.V2cesWNkjdQ) and know I will be a happy man pounding the Scottish hills in these.
The athlete team I have joined is rather humbling for me. It's quite a list. (http://www.lasportiva.com/en/magazine/nuova-sezione-ambassador/ambassador/climbing-mountain/) I better step up!
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCS4YSYHIVo/V2cc2h6fRCI/AAAAAAAAEFk/NcdZbvYSQ5gtfvyimOe6nZip1mSFFH8wwCLcB/s640/Davesportivaboots+2.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xCS4YSYHIVo/V2cc2h6fRCI/AAAAAAAAEFk/NcdZbvYSQ5gtfvyimOe6nZip1mSFFH8wwCLcB/s1600/Davesportivaboots+2.jpg)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iQNEZrgnbZg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Great to read Garth's impartial views on the new Reebok shoes there.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11330680_1610054092568208_2029079795_n.jpg)
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Must be a brilliant climber to have done all those hard routes before in inferior footwear.
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He seems to be able to wear any shoe going... During his little spell experimenting between sponsors he wore whites, dragons, stix and instinct vs. I personally can't even get whites on my feet in a performance fit because they are so narrow and the stix are fairly high volume and wide. I tried on the Otaki and thought they were a bit clumpy but they're obviously well made, like all la sportiva shoes.
It will be interesting to see which la sportiva model Dave settles with over time and he's posted various articles over the years stating how good every scarpa model is when it's newly released but seemed to exclusively wear the stix. Therefore, I'd say that you could take this review with a pinch of salt! I'd expect to see him wearing the wider ones as time goes on like the solutions and muiras.
Shoe geek out.
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I'd expect him to do and say whatever will keep his robot overlords happy.
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Lets face it he could probably crush font 8b+ with dogturds strapped to his feet. And by that I mean Boreals.
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Great to read Garth's impartial views on the new Reebok shoes there.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11330680_1610054092568208_2029079795_n.jpg)
Brilliant davE. Do you think he wrote that himself? It does come across like it was written by a mediabot(tm).
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He seems to be able to wear any shoe going... During his little spell experimenting between sponsors he wore whites, dragons, stix and instinct vs. I personally can't even get whites on my feet in a performance fit because they are so narrow and the stix are fairly high volume and wide. I tried on the Otaki and thought they were a bit clumpy but they're obviously well made, like all la sportiva shoes.
It will be interesting to see which la sportiva model Dave settles with over time and he's posted various articles over the years stating how good every scarpa model is when it's newly released but seemed to exclusively wear the stix. Therefore, I'd say that you could take this review with a pinch of salt! I'd expect to see him wearing the wider ones as time goes on like the solutions and muiras.
Shoe geek out.
Finally. Finally.
The true identity of "weakdave" is revealed!
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We need more weakdaves in the market place to provide me with a steady supply of nearly new shoes... ;)
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Great to read Garth's impartial views on the new Reebok shoes there.
(https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/hphotos-xaf1/t51.2885-15/s320x320/e15/11330680_1610054092568208_2029079795_n.jpg)
Brilliant davE. Do you think he wrote that himself? It does come across like it was written by a mediabot(tm).
Could be worse:
http://www.elleuk.com/life-and-culture/culture/news/a30876/naomi-campbell/#! (http://www.elleuk.com/life-and-culture/culture/news/a30876/naomi-campbell/#!)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsiuxim8vsM
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That's sage advice that I'll keep in a safe place for the next time I'm asked to write a sponsored email/post...
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It will be interesting to see which la sportiva model Dave settles with over time... .
I can't think of anything less interesting
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It will be interesting to see which la sportiva model Dave settles with over time... .
I can't think of anything less interesting
will he get a new tee shirt to match his shoes? That green clashes with the orange flashing, it'd look terrible in promotional pics and wouldn't sell either product.
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Ahh... found it...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjB6r-HDDI0
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Return of the King (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wq5Gh8wyaKA/return-of-king.html)
28 June 2016, 10:36 pm
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8xsep7rkYsE/V3FeRym8WcI/AAAAAAAAEF8/lX762MBTCZACA3O3XcTLZDk8kSDy6KRWQCLcB/s640/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-13-2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8xsep7rkYsE/V3FeRym8WcI/AAAAAAAAEF8/lX762MBTCZACA3O3XcTLZDk8kSDy6KRWQCLcB/s1600/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-13-2.jpg)
High on Return of the King, E9 6c, Scafell. Photo: Steve Ashworth/Lake District Images (http://lakesphoto.photoshelter.com/index)
Over the years I’ve repeated several of Dave Birkett’s excellent hard trad routes in the Lake District - If Six Was Nine (E9), Caution (E8), Impact Day (E8) Dawes Rides a Shovelhead (E8) and John Dunne’s route Breathless (E9). But I’d never got myself up to Scafell where Birkett left a trio of E9s that looked fantastic.
To me, Return of the King looked the most appealing line to try first. Last Tuesday I headed down and drove round to Wasdale for the first time. Lovely place! Having observed lots of ‘Vote Leave’ and UKIP banners in many of the Cumbrian villages on the drive round from Keswick, and having overheard several conversations in cafes and shops en route, I walked in with a head full of contemplation about the UK and its future, which at the time I still hoped would be to choose to stay in Europe. With the realisation that the bubble of ‘remain’ support I came from in Scotland was evidently not widely shared in the north of England, the enormity of the week and the prospects for my daughter’s life began to dawn on me.
So my first session on Return of the King was a little distracted. Nevertheless, I enjoyed myself. I sussed out the line, give it a quick clean and top roped it first try after trying the moves once. I was aware that both the previous ascents used preplaced gear and I could see why! The crucial small wire placements were right in the middle of the crux sections. So placing them on lead would basically be the crux of the route.
I had a bit of a cold so decided to take a rest the next day and go up on the Thursday to lead the route. On my rest day I bumped into Steve Ashworth who decided to pop up with his camera, hence the nice pictures!
Next day I dropped Alicia off north of Ambleside for a long run on her Bob Graham round preparation and drove round to Wasdale, with the agreement that we would rendezvous at Scafell and I would do Return of the King. Alicia arrived just as I was having a quick warm-up shunt on the route and I got on the lead straight afterwards.
I’ve only been bouldering and some winter climbing for some time now. It’s been a while since I’ve been on the sharp end on an E9. So I did feel that my normal routine of getting into a very psyched-up mindset for blasting off up a hard route with only a couple of RPs clipped to your harness. It did definitely help that I still had a bit of strength in my arms from the bouldering season. The moves of the route were feeling fine.
The crux was placing the first crucial RP. I had found a heel hook that allowed me to hang the crimp long enough to get the gear in and clipped before my right arm started to melt. I have a low volume heel and found my left Muira was slightly more secure than my favourite boots (the Otaki). I only have one size of Otaki at the moment but a tighter pair would have worked just fine.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N51uvZmLkw0/V3FeStjZ5AI/AAAAAAAAEGE/mOQw7DDLsXgtDG4eYsfnDuAHeUklhid9ACLcB/s640/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-13.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N51uvZmLkw0/V3FeStjZ5AI/AAAAAAAAEGE/mOQw7DDLsXgtDG4eYsfnDuAHeUklhid9ACLcB/s1600/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-13.jpg)
Placing the crucial wire on Return of the King (E9 6c), Scafell. Photo: Steve Ashworth/Lake District Images (http://lakesphoto.photoshelter.com/index)
The wire went in just fine although in my bubble of psyche I managed to clip the wrong rope into it which meant I had to reverse back down a move or two and sort ropes out. The rest of the pitch went really smoothly and I had plenty in the tank. Placing the second wire on the traverse left wasn’t as hard as I expected. Nice feeling to have some results from my training once again.
I did write a conclusion to this blog post referring to my inevitable linking of this climbing experience to the EU leave. But since I feel rather depressed right now with things outside of climbing, I deleted it. Right now, I will just get on with being alive.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5l09Qy9-rY/V3FeSUuQLUI/AAAAAAAAEGA/6ep2dHopOOs8jmVMBcmVAdaR_CngYZ4EwCLcB/s640/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-19.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c5l09Qy9-rY/V3FeSUuQLUI/AAAAAAAAEGA/6ep2dHopOOs8jmVMBcmVAdaR_CngYZ4EwCLcB/s1600/Return+of+the+King+-+Copyright+Steve+Ashworth-19.jpg)
Mid move on the second tricky section of Return of the King (E9 6c), Scafell. Again, the hardest bit was stopping mid moves to place the fiddly wires! Photo: Steve Ashworth/Lake District Images (http://lakesphoto.photoshelter.com/index)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wq5Gh8wyaKA)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Awesome news, anyone know who did the other repeat?
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Adam Hocking
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Does that make this the first repeat with gear placed on lead?
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Does that make this the first repeat with gear placed on lead?
First ascent without it according to his post
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Does that make this the first repeat with gear placed on lead?
First ascent without it according to his post
Not what I read...
I was aware that both the previous ascents used preplaced gear and I could see why! The crucial small wire placements were right in the middle of the crux sections. So placing them on lead would basically be the crux of the route.
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Does that make this the first repeat with gear placed on lead?
First ascent without it according to his post
Not what I read...
I was aware that both the previous ascents used preplaced gear and I could see why! The crucial small wire placements were right in the middle of the crux sections. So placing them on lead would basically be the crux of the route.
His was the first ascent without it rather than the first repeat.
My poor posting
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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:lol: sorry.
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New white circuit for July in Three Wise Monkeys (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/sxho2LD2b9A/new-white-circuit-for-july-in-three.html)
1 July 2016, 3:03 pm
3WM June 2016 White circuit (https://vimeo.com/173051713) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Yesterday I set a new white circuit (the hardest in the range of boulder circuits) in Three Wise Monkeys (http://threewisemonkeysclimbing.com/) in Fort William. Most of them are pretty steady in the V6/7 range. The easiest are roughly V5 and the hardest one maybe V8+ (the left hand death star one).
If you would like the beta, is some GoPro footage of all of them. Enjoy them Lochaber climbers and visitors! Great to be in there setting new boulders while the rain falls outside.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/sxho2LD2b9A)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Return of the King GoPro (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/tiQ-6XiL-MQ/return-of-king-gopro.html)
1 July 2016, 3:17 pm
GoPro of Return of the King E9 6c (https://vimeo.com/173051918) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is some GoPro footage of my ascent of Return of the King E9 in the Lakes last week. You can hear Steve Ashworth’s camera snapping away just behind the camera. But I didn’t notice any of that where I was, not that I would anyway in a bubble of climbing psyche.
Actually when I was practising the route right before the lead, I did notice a lady on the path below look up and notice be dangling about on the wall and shout ‘Oh my god’ in a very loud voice. It reminded me a bit of climbing at Dumbarton back in the day. I’m not used to climbing in such busy places!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/tiQ-6XiL-MQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New film of Michael on Tower Ridge (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/nQl6Mn-Trc0/new-film-of-michael-on-tower-ridge.html)
5 July 2016, 11:22 pm
A Fine Line (https://vimeo.com/173452960) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a wee film I made recently with Michael Tweedley and my DJI Inspire 1 drone, running the always fantastic Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis and the excellent paths around the mountain.
I made the film to help draw attention to the great work of the Nevis Landscape Partnership (http://www.nevislandscape.co.uk/) and Friends of Nevis (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/) in building and maintaining the paths in the Nevis area, alongside other organisations such as the John Muir Trust (https://www.johnmuirtrust.org/).
When I think back to the Allt a Mhuillin path as just one example, it’s in so much better shape that it used to be. Most grateful to the teams, especially the volunteers who build them. Please do volunteer (http://www.friendsofnevis.co.uk/volunteer.html) and help - the days out are always good craic.
HELP WANTED! (https://vimeo.com/169509874) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/nQl6Mn-Trc0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Summer monsoon training (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qFTvbEXDNkg/summer-monsoon-training.html)
9 August 2016, 7:42 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EpM6s6ykbbs/V6nw30iLbHI/AAAAAAAAEHE/fAyGFYeEZGsx8HRDDvIGT-3e8SNcw5MuwCLcB/s640/circuit+time+%25281%2529.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EpM6s6ykbbs/V6nw30iLbHI/AAAAAAAAEHE/fAyGFYeEZGsx8HRDDvIGT-3e8SNcw5MuwCLcB/s1600/circuit+time+%25281%2529.jpg)
During July I was mostly to be found here in my wall, running many a lap.
After a successful couple of days in Early June visiting the lake and climbing Return of the King (E9), I returned for another quick trip of three days. On the first day I made the most of the uninspiring weather and repeated The Keswickian (E8 7a) in a couple of hours work. Unfortunately I was rained off the other two days.
I decided not to go on an alpine big wall trip this summer and instead stay in Scotland to try and climb some of the great mountain trad projects I have here, especially on Ben Nevis, where I have not climbed on in summer since I did Echo Wall way back in 2008!
Unfortunately, I have picked the wrong summer, and my gamble has not paid off. The last part of June and all of July has been very wet and poor and I’ve not been able to get on the projects in the west. Never mind - I’m used to being adaptable and trying to make the best of the situation to get ahead for the next goal.
On my horizon is the sport climbing season in the late autumn. I always like to set myself various all-rounds challenges that are fun to try and focus my energies. After last winter’s successful focus on bouldering, I wondered if I could climb an 8C boulder, 9a sport route and a really hard Scottish mixed route in one year. I’m not at all confident I can do it (no climber ever has, to my knowledge), which is the point - I want to push well out of my comfort zone. With the 8C boulder ticked, next up I would like to climb a long endurance 9a, probably in Spain, if I can turn myself into an endurance climber quickly enough.
I know I’ll have to train in a very organised way to manage this, so I have written myself a very detailed training program. Although I’ve done this many times for other climbers, I’ve generally trained myself on a flexible basis because I’ve focused on going outside climbing whenever the weather is good as my first priority, and just fitted in training whenever it rains. This can work well up to a certain level and is a good option if you are able to keep a good working record of your training load and priorities. Not many people can/do.
Perhaps the awful weather in July has galvanised me to take a more long term view focused on the trip. Not to mention the success I had with doing my winter goal of climbing an 8C boulder with this approach. During July itself, I trained most days on my board, building a base of endurance and general conditioning, on which to build upon during September and October.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a2-8QZ3VlXY/V6nw8ypEy2I/AAAAAAAAEHI/9tm1mIASskU3603GTZUzOppVL6H0GE17ACLcB/s640/Nuclear+Nightmarestill.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a2-8QZ3VlXY/V6nw8ypEy2I/AAAAAAAAEHI/9tm1mIASskU3603GTZUzOppVL6H0GE17ACLcB/s1600/Nuclear+Nightmarestill.jpg)
Full stretch on the reach crux of Nuclear Nightmare 8a+ on Creag Nan Cadhag near Gairloch.
I’ve snatched the rare dry days in the west of Scotland to tick off some of the harder sport routes in the north west. First, Remember to Roll (8b) and Stalks 8a+ Creag nan Luch. In the past week I had a couple of days at Creag nan Cadhag and ticked off Game Over (8a+) and Nuclear Nightmare (8a+) as well as flashes of the other 7cs on the wall. All great routes and great to be able to just turn up and climb sport routes in Scotland without having to equip and clean them first! Kudos to the equippers.
I can definitely feel my month of base training has done something and I have made some progress already. Looking at my training program is slightly terrifying though. I’ll just have to see if I have judged the training and recovery correctly. Already I am running into some issues; my right brachioradialis is complaining a little. I do get some aches here on and off, maybe every couple of years, and usually it passes if I take my recovery seriously and make sure I complete my antagonist workouts. Ongoing monitoring and adjustment is essential for any training program, since life never works out as planned.
I’ve planned the training as far as my sport climbing trip in November, and have a first crack at some hard routes then. If I get on well, I’ll switch straight onto tool training for the mixed season. It seems so far away, but it’s not. On with the training!
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mlpLJ3ewVBM/V6nw-etxWTI/AAAAAAAAEHM/36Pp6q53CxgtzJ_0flChxO41P9iXv5zOQCLcB/s640/Stalksstill2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mlpLJ3ewVBM/V6nw-etxWTI/AAAAAAAAEHM/36Pp6q53CxgtzJ_0flChxO41P9iXv5zOQCLcB/s1600/Stalksstill2.jpg)
Climbing Stalks 8a+ on Creag nan Luch. I also climbed Remember to Roll 8b just to the right, back in June. Both fantastic routes which can be climbed in the rain.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KWe35rerzlA/V6nxBW_LsMI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/3M-1666GraUxGBWcUIxn-F1wcb-C1FUoACLcB/s640/whipandride.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KWe35rerzlA/V6nxBW_LsMI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/3M-1666GraUxGBWcUIxn-F1wcb-C1FUoACLcB/s1600/whipandride.jpg)
Blair Fyffe on Whip and Ride, 7c, on Creag Nan Luch. I managed to get the flash of this great route shortly afterwards.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qFTvbEXDNkg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Rapid Learning Curve (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/IqVNHnwCV7Y/rapid-learning-curve.html)
15 August 2016, 12:34 am
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kVMoSQrFWvk/V7D9kA9yCvI/AAAAAAAAEHs/Q2AnzEv9MSgR1HKwRP5qDLAOwnOAKdMzACLcB/s640/campus45+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kVMoSQrFWvk/V7D9kA9yCvI/AAAAAAAAEHs/Q2AnzEv9MSgR1HKwRP5qDLAOwnOAKdMzACLcB/s1600/campus45+1.jpg)
Calum Muskett entering the crux of Rapid Learning Curve E6 6b, Elgol, Isle of Skye.
In my last post I mentioned that I’d spent a fair bit of time on my board in the past few (wet) weeks and had prepared myself a detailed training program to prepare for the autumn’s sport climbing challenges. With a break in the weather forecast, I met up with Calum and Gabby and we headed for Skye to try and climb something in the Cuillin.
As is the theme for this summer we were met with drizzle and mist on the drive over Glen Shiel and onto the island. What a surprise. After tea and regroup in Broadford we diverted to Elgol and saw off the two E6s there, Rapid Learning Curve and Hovis. After doing these the midge defeated us. It was good to climb some actual rock but after driving home to Roy Bridge I couldn’t wait to try out my new campus rungs I’d spent the previous day making.
I had needed to take a couple of rest days from training as my Brachioradialis was complaining from rather relentless dead hanging routines. So as well as the usual ton of work to be done I took a bit of time to make a proper system/campus setup on my 45 and 15 degree boards. Foot-on campus style anaerobic intervals is never something I’ve really tried, probably because I’ve never properly trained endurance before! That might sound silly but it’s actually true. I’ve nearly always spent 60-80% of my time just going climbing outside year round, and in the periods where I’ve done more sustained stints of climbing indoors, it’s normally just basic strength and bouldering, with a bit of normal board endurance circuits of 30 moves upward.
Even the start I’ve made in the past couple of weeks of doing more regular endurance work has made a bit of an impact. It’s a nice feeling and its definitely spurred me on to enjoy the program I’ve set through to the end of October. I’ll keep the blog updated with progress and lessons learned along the way.
I did have some resin system blocks on my board already, but I did find them a bit harsh on the skin and didn’t end up using them that much, except for tooling at the start of last winter for a few weeks. It was on my to do list to replace the whole setup with quite positive but still fingery campus rungs that would be super skin friendly for maximum anaerobic burn and minimum skin pain. I’m hoping that if I use them in combination with my cadre of ‘real’ climbing circuits, they will come into their own, both for the intensity and the skin friendliness, since I have only a handful of rest days each month now. I’m still finding looking over my program a little scary at the same time as being exciting.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZtPeazn-Vc/V7D9n3YIGeI/AAAAAAAAEH4/IPM42RnnK5cy6keJVQLoGTzgW_BrE-vPgCLcB/s640/campus45+5.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VZtPeazn-Vc/V7D9n3YIGeI/AAAAAAAAEH4/IPM42RnnK5cy6keJVQLoGTzgW_BrE-vPgCLcB/s1600/campus45+5.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KJ4AScY0RAA/V7D9kHH1_QI/AAAAAAAAEHw/hUWa085UU-g5LxXA2KV2YHCPkxpNH2jgwCLcB/s640/campus45+3.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KJ4AScY0RAA/V7D9kHH1_QI/AAAAAAAAEHw/hUWa085UU-g5LxXA2KV2YHCPkxpNH2jgwCLcB/s1600/campus45+3.jpg)
My campus rungs, about 40cm apart, with pinch blocks below (desperate for my weak grip!) and big holes for tooling in when December comes around. Not bad for an afternoon’s work.
I’m actually still not totally finished the plan either. I’m still trying to pin down the nutrition side of it, which is predictably taking a lot of work. And I don’t always feel like I’m getting closer to settled decisions. I say ‘decisions’ rather than ‘answers’ since there are very few solid answers in sports nutrition. The more solid others claim to have answers on sports nutrition, the less I trust them. So my work in progress nutrition plan contains many calculated gambles. Seeing if they work out will be a fun and fascinating exercise which will include eating a lot of really good food! I’m particularly proud of my workout drink schedule at the moment.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c8X953JuRoY/V7D9fPgzlYI/AAAAAAAAEHo/frToRQU2zZouv0oCNMwwkwEg2AdfgM6LgCLcB/s640/campus45+2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c8X953JuRoY/V7D9fPgzlYI/AAAAAAAAEHo/frToRQU2zZouv0oCNMwwkwEg2AdfgM6LgCLcB/s1600/campus45+2.jpg)
Fresh strawberries and milk, blended up. Not a bad delivery vehicle for my EAAs and circuit carbs.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/IqVNHnwCV7Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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An Inconvenient Tooth (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/SzQHKAMBEdo/an-inconvenient-tooth.html)
25 August 2016, 9:54 am
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvZqq4r8RB8/V76t6NMpVRI/AAAAAAAAEI4/-usF11Vg0lcQKYBMicYiKDLtx7j53XelACLcB/s640/Skye+tooth+4.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvZqq4r8RB8/V76t6NMpVRI/AAAAAAAAEI4/-usF11Vg0lcQKYBMicYiKDLtx7j53XelACLcB/s1600/Skye+tooth+4.jpg)
Mid crux on The Inconvenient Tooth E8 6c. Thanks to Cubby Images (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/) for these great pics.
During the good spell back in June, Dan McManus and Ross McKerchar climbed a great looking new E8 8c new routes the arete of the Bhasteir Tooth on Skye. I had never been up there but obviously knew the arete had not been climbed. I always wondered if the roofs would either have any holds on them, or be escapable onto the side walls, so I never went up to look. As it turned out, the side wall gave an E8 - all good!
So I was obviously keen to go up and repeat it. After going up with Calum last weekend and diverting to Algol in the drizzle, I had to return home for a couple of days work. Calum was working on Skye and managed to squeeze in a repeat of the route on the Thursday. I walked in with Iain Small and Cubby on Friday (my first opportunity) on a forecast of rain arriving around mid afternoon.
However, as we dropped our sacks at the foot of the route, it started to spit with rain. We both quickly went up the scramble route to the top of the tooth and abseiled down to check the gear and I hurriedly tied in with the rain still spitting, but only slightly. I expected it to get wet quickly, but moved as fast as I could to arrange the gear in case I could do it just in time.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fO5_ql5Rr28/V76t3CIRevI/AAAAAAAAEIw/eb9v0Vss-F8C5-Ldk9Fyh3dKJrceeQWcQCLcB/s640/Skye+tooth+5.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fO5_ql5Rr28/V76t3CIRevI/AAAAAAAAEIw/eb9v0Vss-F8C5-Ldk9Fyh3dKJrceeQWcQCLcB/s1600/Skye+tooth+5.jpg)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OgBwi1TfaMs/V76tyB251jI/AAAAAAAAEIo/mmZj7ijGkzE58qFVbFKaGmQhJ93vxNejQCLcB/s640/Skye+tooth+3.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OgBwi1TfaMs/V76tyB251jI/AAAAAAAAEIo/mmZj7ijGkzE58qFVbFKaGmQhJ93vxNejQCLcB/s1600/Skye+tooth+3.jpg)
The crux was fine - easier than I expected and in no time I was on the easier upper arete which I took my time on since I would certainly not have another chance! I abseiled and stripped it as fast as I could and Iain tied in. The spits were gradually becoming just rain and it wasn’t clear that Iain would have time to do it.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dnrejTLrc2s/V76tzGy71bI/AAAAAAAAEIs/a8hv5Rg6PZYbMKNOspOVjc7nPU3frK-JgCLcB/s640/Skye+tooth+2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dnrejTLrc2s/V76tzGy71bI/AAAAAAAAEIs/a8hv5Rg6PZYbMKNOspOVjc7nPU3frK-JgCLcB/s1600/Skye+tooth+2.jpg)
Iain just after the crux.
With a shout he powered through the crux and as the rock started to get a little wet he moved round out of sight and up the final arete. The clouds got thicker and the rain got heavier and drips started to run off the faces that were catching the strengthening wind. Iain moved quickly and then stopped. But impressively, after a couple of minutes contemplation, he continued upward on the final metres of E3 terrain with was by now fairly wet. Winter climbing experience no doubt paid off!
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-onEnJp60-4g/V76t5VE07iI/AAAAAAAAEI0/miZi6_mMjdsZDo_bca72Uy0-KuT4hCbAwCLcB/s640/me+and+Iain.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-onEnJp60-4g/V76t5VE07iI/AAAAAAAAEI0/miZi6_mMjdsZDo_bca72Uy0-KuT4hCbAwCLcB/s1600/me+and+Iain.jpg)
We packed up soaking wet ropes and trudged back down feeling lucky to have made the best of every second of available dryness that day. I reflected that we could easily have not climbed it, all it would have taken would have been a pulse of slightly heavier drizzle before we started climbing. If we’d trudged down soaking wet without the tick, I’d no doubt have felt rather differently about the day, and perhaps about the merit of taking our chances on a poor forecast.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fJVEtYyv5c/V76tv_pnJiI/AAAAAAAAEIk/Ltmpqgm2q9g14m7imnxh9jPpgB8SBpYBwCLcB/s640/Skye+tooth+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--fJVEtYyv5c/V76tv_pnJiI/AAAAAAAAEIk/Ltmpqgm2q9g14m7imnxh9jPpgB8SBpYBwCLcB/s1600/Skye+tooth+1.jpg)
The rapidly worsening weather situation as Iain was climbing the upper arete.
As always with living in Scotland, the wet spells like we’ve had this summer seem to go on and on while you’re in them, but they are quickly forgotten when the conditions turn good and you can have your pick of routes to do. Despite the recent rain, I am gradually working through my list of routes to climb for the summer, although my Ben Nevis projects are looking a bit remote now. Unless we have a September like last year!
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W88ghrk686A/V7sMsNze_zI/AAAAAAAAEIM/X0r04MYxCSogm3fnlw9Aaa2tZtKiOx6mwCLcB/s640/14047105_10155127210074951_3563553969068234882_o.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-W88ghrk686A/V7sMsNze_zI/AAAAAAAAEIM/X0r04MYxCSogm3fnlw9Aaa2tZtKiOx6mwCLcB/s1600/14047105_10155127210074951_3563553969068234882_o.jpg)
Sunnier times back in June - Rich Mayfield just sent me this pic of me repeating The Keswickian E8 7a in the Lakes. Oh for some more sunny days like that!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/SzQHKAMBEdo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Summer ups and downs (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PKh7OqSFRrk/summer-ups-and-downs.html)
2 September 2016, 2:39 pm
Completing my hard yellow circuit on the board for the first time yesterday. A small training milestone for the summer. If you would like to join me for some coaching at my own wall, I just announced some dates for coaching in December, and then in February. The details are here (http://www.davemacleod.com/events.html).
As the wet summer continues, my plans of mountain trad projects continue to wait in limbo and my body is broken on a daily basis with tough training. This is all good, I am fit! I got a day in Binnien Shuas and revisited a potential project I tried to abseil down about 5 years ago but gave up on. I say tried to abseil down - the line goes through a huge barrel shaped too system, and I couldn’t get any gear in to pull myself into the wall and get a look at it. Now armed with better aiding skills and kit, I managed fine this time and cleaned it up. It looks around 8a with fantastic moves and a thank-god cam near the crux, although the crux will be placing the cam and managing to keep going!
I was hoping to get in there today for a lead, but it was rain 15, dave 0. Meanwhile, back in the wall where I have been racking up the circuits each day, I have been making some progress, It’s always hard to tell how much progress, since I have not had a rest day in some time, but you get clues. The clues seem promising but not mind-blowing. The main issue has been the need to eat some carbs to fuel the anaerobic sessions. My body does not get on well with this and so I’ve been working hard to arrive at a strategy to keep these to an absolute minimum required for specific sessions. Manipulating the amounts and timing has been tricky and the trial and error process has contained a lot of error! I’ll get it right yet though and I continue to learn much about this, and about how my body responds to different regimens.
Eating in my own personalised formulation of a ketogenic diet while I was only bouldering was both highly effective and very easy for me (once I had learned quite a lot of prerequisite knowledge and corrected various early mistakes). I know many people don’t get on well with it. My hunch is that this is down to lack of knowledge or planning in many cases rather than inherent unsuitability of the strategy. Managing inclusion of some CHO in the diet for CHO-based anaerobic training is probably very easy for some, but not for me, and even small amounts kicks on many of the problems that led me to the ketogenic diet in the first place. I did wonder whether maintaining this style of eating would actually be the better end of the trade off for me for sport climbing too. At the moment, it looks like the optimal route for me will be some sort of periodised balance between minimal carbs during anaerobic sessions and moving back into ketosis as quickly as possible at other times could be the best. I emphasise ‘could be’ - I am not yet sure. What the optimal regimen will look like I’m not sure either. I am sure that it will take fairly meticulous planning though.
The trouble with experiments of any kind in sports science, especially when they include both training changes and nutrition is that so many variables are moving at the same time. Attributing an effect, positive or negative, to one change is an exercise in something between futility and careful guesswork. Was it the sleep, the protein, the fat, the carbs, the type of food, the training, the conditions, your mental state or a whole host of things you hadn’t even thought of that were responsible for what you observe?
Overall, it’s fair to say I have stepped up my game in all aspects of the organisation of my training though. One thing can always throw a spanner in the works regarding training is life outside of climbing. I’ve had a couple of ups and downs outside of climbing lately. Being totally honest, I’ve stopped a couple of training sessions after warming up purely because I wasn’t in the right frame of mind to train (putting it mildly). Sometimes training can actually be an outlet for difficulties in ‘real’ life. In fact I’d say climbing has been utterly essential in getting me through some tough times. Sometimes though, I’ve just not been able to do it.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PKh7OqSFRrk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Urban Uprising (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/De_TPyEcHTM/urban-uprising.html)
6 November 2016, 7:41 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KmtembFoinM/WB-GqXUcqCI/AAAAAAAAELA/M35OXU7scuM9QnJg9GuF2bakArB_-J9VwCLcB/s640/_MG_8548.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KmtembFoinM/WB-GqXUcqCI/AAAAAAAAELA/M35OXU7scuM9QnJg9GuF2bakArB_-J9VwCLcB/s1600/_MG_8548.jpg)
Myself and my friend Niall McNair who also spoke at the Urban Uprising event at TCA Glasgow the other week
A couple of weeks ago I gave a talk at a big boulder comp/party event at TCA Glasgow (https://www.theclimbingacademy.com/our-walls/glasgow/) organised by the charity Urban Uprising. Various talks I’ve done in the past have raised money for Climbers Against Cancer, various mountain rescue teams and others, but I mention this one specifically, just because I really like what they do and want to encourage you to support it.
Urban Uprising take deprived or otherwise at risk kids climbing. Usually it’s the first time they’ve had an experience of an adventurous sport like climbing. In my view, this is a pretty special thing to do. I’m biased of course, because one experience I happened to have as a kid (randomly going out on my bike and finding mountains) totally changed my life. I have no doubt at all that this one experience not only set me on a path to make far more of myself than I otherwise would have, but it also allowed me to gain expertise I could then use to help others.
I was lucky enough to have a bike, and the freedom to choose to go out on it and have this life changing experience without any direct influence from anyone at that moment. So many others have neither the freedom or the resources. One of the great problems with helping young people to help themselves is that no-one ever values them. So why would they value themselves? They are seen by so many others in society as a problem. Actually they are an opportunity. When someone takes time to show them something good, it will have a positive effect on almost all. For a subset, it will change everything. That is worth supporting.
If you want to support them, head to their website (http://www.urbanuprising.co.uk/), buy a cool T-shirt. Or just donate. Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/De_TPyEcHTM)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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This!
:punk: :boxing: :great:
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Lucky man - part 1 (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/hFDT0WnGVHg/lucky-man-part-1.html)
23 November 2016, 1:28 pm
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lQhuJ13xn0/WDWXeQFR8sI/AAAAAAAAELs/7LKrSSGKDHE_-ZUcw7wIL1JrrswIvp0BACLcB/s640/28983153113_15c1982564_k.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0lQhuJ13xn0/WDWXeQFR8sI/AAAAAAAAELs/7LKrSSGKDHE_-ZUcw7wIL1JrrswIvp0BACLcB/s1600/28983153113_15c1982564_k.jpg)
A minute away from breaking a leg. And I just thought I was about to climb a great new trad first ascent. Photos: Masa Sakano
During August and September I was a wee bit frustrated, bothered by my decision to stay in Scotland and do mountain trad projects, only to be met with a dire wet summer. Still I was aware how lucky I was to have these sorts of problems to worry about. I did a ton of training and felt pretty fit, waiting for a weather window for a cool project on Binnien Shuas. My time finally came. As soon as the rain stopped I headed up with Masa, finished cleaning the line and tied in to lead it. Although it was a tough route and I didn’t expect to succeed first try, I was relaxed and just so delighted to be outside, with a cool breeze in my face and starting up a hard rock climb.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--kZtU4a3nmM/WDWXiTuDg4I/AAAAAAAAEL0/nA8xmazxUE4Fkq_muzFHfRm6-UpPP0TIQCLcB/s640/29527170521_bb3b4804fa_k.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--kZtU4a3nmM/WDWXiTuDg4I/AAAAAAAAEL0/nA8xmazxUE4Fkq_muzFHfRm6-UpPP0TIQCLcB/s1600/29527170521_bb3b4804fa_k.jpg)
Inspecting the new line. It will be an amazing route, when I get the opportunity to go back to it!
I was just getting started, two moves up the route and was lifting my feet ready to place a good wire when suddenly I found myself hurtling backwards without warning. The big sidepull I’d been holding onto had broken off. I landed on one foot on the rock slab below the route and somersaulted backwards, also knocking Masa to the ground. We picked ourselves up in a tangle of ropes and heather and Masa asked if I was ok. ‘Yes, but maybe not my ankle’.
For a couple of minutes, I had a rather powerful adrenaline buzz, which faded to a looming feeling that things were not good. My leg and ankle were clearly ‘not right’. Sadly I am all too experienced with this situation and I defaulted to considering the immediate issue that I was at the top of a mountain with a broken leg and one hour’s walk and 30 min cycle away from the road.
So I apologised to Masa and asked if it was ok if he would carry my lead ropes down the hill and if I could set off right away as I might be walking slowly! Masa agreed and said he would also retrieve my static rope which was also still hanging down the wall from having finished the cleaning.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L8NzH5sapgQ/WDWXaIpZ7yI/AAAAAAAAELo/z1M8otwjfzgQloRalvgPtYZ6KxtCFydkQCLcB/s640/28982996173_5dd615d9b3_k.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L8NzH5sapgQ/WDWXaIpZ7yI/AAAAAAAAELo/z1M8otwjfzgQloRalvgPtYZ6KxtCFydkQCLcB/s1600/28982996173_5dd615d9b3_k.jpg)
Broken rock, broken leg.
I set off, every step becoming more painful and more worrying. However, with the help of my walking poles I arrived back at the bikes in good time and could kid myself on that my leg was not too bad while I had it immersed in the cold water of Lochan na-h Earba. Masa was a long time behind me and by the time he appeared out of the darkness, my heart was pounding out of my chest with worry. He did in fact have his own considerable adventures en route to the top of the crag, opting for the quicker route by soloing a v-diff gully climb which I normally use to access the top myself (so knew how steep it was). He slipped on wet grass on the final moves of this and fell 30 metres down the gully, apparently landing on his back, on his rucksack full of ropes and gear. Bruised but otherwise ok, he staggered off the hill behind me.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DKIh3DhtQv8/WDWXg0ekWbI/AAAAAAAAELw/Vr-cHKHBA6g1PP0vCd5Rp0IILrA8QU2VACLcB/s640/IMG_1851.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DKIh3DhtQv8/WDWXg0ekWbI/AAAAAAAAELw/Vr-cHKHBA6g1PP0vCd5Rp0IILrA8QU2VACLcB/s1600/IMG_1851.jpg)
A fair walk with a broken leg. Bikes left at the beach at the end of the loch.
While he relayed this story to me as we limped onto our bikes in the dark, I wondered if I might be hallucinating because I was so worried to see Masa appear again that my brain might be inventing the image. I was nonetheless relieved to be on the bike and wobbling off down the track back to the road. Perhaps with the reappearance of Masa and the elapsed time since the injury my endorphin hit was wearing off, but I found it particularly challenging to get off the bike, walk it through the gate and get going again. By that point I was realising the game was up and I started to feel a bit low.
After several days of lying low, Masa was back out on the crags and climbing again. When I returned home, Claire retrieved by crutches out of the shed and I got used to the idea of being off my feet and off the hills again. My MRI confirmed a broken Tibia and various bits of damage to the ankle I had repaired in March 2015.
I reasoned with myself that after getting myself through three ankle surgeries in four years, and over a year of that time on crutches, I was well equipped to just do it again. And anyway, what else would I do? It didn’t work out quite like that, as I will describe in the next part of this blog.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xAPApGF0YL4/WDWXnfse65I/AAAAAAAAEL8/DW50TBPqTqod22H5wTBwibRj7qzSoqK_wCLcB/s640/IMG_1855.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xAPApGF0YL4/WDWXnfse65I/AAAAAAAAEL8/DW50TBPqTqod22H5wTBwibRj7qzSoqK_wCLcB/s1600/IMG_1855.jpg)
Masa attacking the roofs of Ardanfreaky E3 5c, earlier in the afternoon.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/hFDT0WnGVHg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Time to focus (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/9BPMnmo4g7A/time-to-focus.html)
21 January 2017, 10:30 am
Good Drying, 8A+, Arisaig Cave (https://vimeo.com/200457400) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
As ever I’ve found recovering from being broken and stuck on crutches a long road without many shortcuts. I’d definitely lost sight of light at the end of the tunnel for a while. But since Christmas, things have begun to look up quite a bit.
My gait has normalised, I have much less pain, I feel a bit more agility coming back. But most importantly, I completed another phase of my long running diet experiments, a phase which definitely didn’t work. It had caused me to put on quite a bit of fat. After the experiment I switched back and even after one week started to get leaner again, and feel like I can climb!
I’d put a bit of effort into training for winter climbing. But winter does not seem to be coming this year. So on with the boulder projects. Readers of this blog will know that last winter I did a straight-up 8B in the Arisaig Cave called 4th Wave. Its an absolutely brilliant piece of climbing, and so it was a shame the journey was over when I completed it. But the obvious thing in my mind ever since I fist visited the cave was to do the big link from the cave entrance and finish up 4th Wave. I felt pretty sure this was Font 8C territory and a great project to work on (skin friendly, nearly always dry, perfect in the middle of winter and in condition nearly 6 months of the year).
But it did seem rather too hard. So I was a bit scared of trying it. However, over the past week I have made a great start. Re-working all of the 50-odd moves. The first half, to a kneebar rest before 4th Wave is around 8A. There is another straight-up 7C that starts from the kneebar, so I figured I could finish up this also as a kind of 8A+ ‘warm-up’. It would also serve as a good link to do laps on when I was too tired to have more redpoints on the proper finish.
Yesterday, I climbed the 8A+ link, on my first redpoint attempt. My foot also slipped off mid-crux on the exit problem, and I still managed to stay on and finish it. Quite a good sign.
It makes total sense at this point for me to get serious on this project now. I have three months of good conditions ahead, a great start already done, and I’m really motivated to work on it. I still don’t think it will go. But that is the point of a hard project!
There are several stages for the prep. First is just to repeat 4th Wave, and work up to being able to do it a few times in a session. Second is to drop 3/4kgs back to my fighting weight. Third is to go beyond just knowing the moves of the first half, to being able to climb them with much greater speed and efficiency - putting the hours in, in other words. Lastly, I need to work a bit on my specific body strength to be able to hold the strenuous kneebar rest position for twice as long as I currently can.
The great thing about climbing in the cave is how powerful the climbing is, you walk back to the car with every muscle in your upper body ‘singing’ with fatigue. And if you need a break, you just watch the otters and sea eagles dotting about the bay for a moment.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z3EC2m2-s5I/WIM33eRDY2I/AAAAAAAAENE/McHfFiXqma04gFdCPJi8ZkrfX5zfg3qDACLcB/s640/aonach.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z3EC2m2-s5I/WIM33eRDY2I/AAAAAAAAENE/McHfFiXqma04gFdCPJi8ZkrfX5zfg3qDACLcB/s1600/aonach.jpg)
View from my house this morning (Jan 21st) of Aonach Mor. Basically no winter yet.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/9BPMnmo4g7A)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Fort William Mountain Festival time is coming again (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/GxircLUVS3w/fort-william-mountain-festival-time-is.html)
4 February 2017, 6:58 pm
FWMF Showreel 2017 (https://vimeo.com/199588802) from Fort William Mountain Festival (https://vimeo.com/fwmf) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The Fort William Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/) is always a highlight of the year for me. In fact, aside from climbing trips themselves, it’s the most important mountain-related date in my diary. It’s always an inspiring gathering of all the like-minded outdoor folk of the UK. We socialise, watch films, coach climbing and see some lectures that you just get at the many mountain festivals around the world (I’ve been to most of them, many times).
Anyway, I would say that. The festival weekend itself also marks the end of the busiest work period in my year. Each year I edit the festival showreel, the mountain culture award films and also my own films for the festival. This year has been maybe my busiest. I’ve just finished seven pieces of film and I’m exhausted. As the last one uploads to dropbox, I was straight back on my board and felt much better, and tomorrow morning I’ll be heading off into the fresh snow that finally arrived on the hills today. Great!
Above is the festival showreel. Putting it together always gets me psyched not only for the festival, but for the start of the climbing season proper in Scotland. Here we go!
Hopefully see you folks from all over the UK and Europe at the festival in a couple of weeks. I'm running coaching masterclasses all weekend during the days at my wall (there was a cancellation on one booking yesterday - ring Claire on 07813060376 if you would like to fill it!). We also have a stall at the festival nights as always, selling books and films, so come and say hello.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/GxircLUVS3w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Knuckleduster on the Ben (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/3U83NshWcRg/knuckleduster-on-ben.html)
6 February 2017, 11:42 am
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tertzAc7XSk/WJhedDSujZI/AAAAAAAAENw/kw1glFkZNwECtyvXrCjJV8aJHdIe2BKwACLcB/s640/%253Cuntitled%253E+1.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tertzAc7XSk/WJhedDSujZI/AAAAAAAAENw/kw1glFkZNwECtyvXrCjJV8aJHdIe2BKwACLcB/s1600/%253Cuntitled%253E+1.jpg)
Dave Almond approaching the bulge on pitch 2 of Knuckleduster Direct (the original version goes right, the direct goes left to continue up the general corner feature.)
Yesterday was a fun day climbing Knuckleduster Direct VIII,8 on the Ben with Helen Rennard and Dave Almond. It was also my first day leading trad since breaking my leg in the autumn. I was very slow placing the gear, and placed a lot. But otherwise fine. It was certainly a good idea to have a gentle break back in to trad leading again. The route was first climbed (http://gregboswell.co.uk/index.php/2012/11/27/snow-its-scary-stuff/) by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson in 2012. All four pitches were really good fun, with mostly positive hooks, especially where you really need it. In fact, I got my tools stuck in the crack twice on pitch one!
The highlight of the day was the lovely moonlight as we abseiled back down. The Ben is a little worrying right now, with a lot of loose blocks which are not keyed-in as they normally would be since it’s been both very dry and snowless this winter so far. It still feels like November up there.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d6XrJ7_h06Q/WJheh0Lra5I/AAAAAAAAEN0/BidZmOGnnKUBcXGJRluTbBaNVywhpbaAACLcB/s640/%253Cuntitled%253E+2.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d6XrJ7_h06Q/WJheh0Lra5I/AAAAAAAAEN0/BidZmOGnnKUBcXGJRluTbBaNVywhpbaAACLcB/s1600/%253Cuntitled%253E+2.jpg)
Helen seconding pitch 1Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/3U83NshWcRg)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Urban Uprising ambassador (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/O1fxEa3G8as/urban-uprising-ambassador.html)
7 February 2017, 11:45 am
Dave MacLeod speaks to URBAN UPRISING (https://vimeo.com/191857569) from UrbanUprising (https://vimeo.com/urbanuprising) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I’m delighted to say I am now an ambassador for the charity Urban Uprising (http://www.urbanuprising.co.uk/), which takes children from deprived backgrounds climbing. Sounds simple, but it can transform people’s lives, as it did mine. It shows them that someone believes they are capable, it shows them a new world of the outdoors and adventures. Climbing and the outdoors also offers some respite from the stress these young people have to face. I think that being given a window into another world like this, a sense that good experiences are possible, is critical for these people. So I’m right behind it, and encourage you to be as well.
I'm joining other great climbers on their team such as Robbie Phillips, James Pearson, Caroline Ciavaldini, Niall McNair and Natalie Berry. I hope that through any influence I have, I can help raise some awareness and ultimately, raise funds to make the Uprising projects happen. If you are able to donate something directly, do it! It’s easy (instructions here) (http://www.urbanuprising.co.uk/donate). Another cool way of helping is to buy one of their T-shirts (http://www.urbanuprising.co.uk/shop). One T-shirt gets one child climbing for the day. That is pretty cool.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbC0oCYFXx0/WJhlk_gLVbI/AAAAAAAAEOE/My7V1Cy1-eoq-qgMuuydBDrx9m-KAEMOgCLcB/s640/Infographic_UU_what_we_do_OK.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GbC0oCYFXx0/WJhlk_gLVbI/AAAAAAAAEOE/My7V1Cy1-eoq-qgMuuydBDrx9m-KAEMOgCLcB/s1600/Infographic_UU_what_we_do_OK.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/O1fxEa3G8as)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Boulder Scotland new edition in the shop (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/qnc2oDv_eCo/boulder-scotland-new-edition-in-shop.html)
17 February 2017, 11:16 am
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9yWZk5ChwOU/WKbVL5i0TkI/AAAAAAAAEOg/h3k6X5skf3gSA_qv4cLgyvN2h_DCnpCZACLcB/s640/boulder+scotland.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9yWZk5ChwOU/WKbVL5i0TkI/AAAAAAAAEOg/h3k6X5skf3gSA_qv4cLgyvN2h_DCnpCZACLcB/s1600/boulder+scotland.jpg)
We have delivery of our stock of the new Scottish Bouldering guide (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/boulderscotland.html) by John Watson. It’s fantastic to see John put so much effort into updating this excellent and much needed guide. It’s an important contribution to Scottish climbing. Just flicking through the new expanded book, it reminds me not only of the infinite amazing boulder littered all over our country, but also of the great many memories I have of developing many of the areas myself over the past two decades. I just had, and continue to have, so much fun. From lurking at Dumby - its polish refining my technique, to hitching every day to Glen Croe for a whole summer, to more recent perfect days out in amongst the grand highland scenery of the Skeleton Boulders in Glen Nevis.
If you live in the UK, and especially in Scotland, and you boulder, please don’t let your life go past without visiting many of the spots in this guide. Don’t wait for years to discover just how good the Torridonian sandstone is, or drive up the A9 without ducking in to the Ruthven Boulder. I don't really need to say this - if you just look through the guide, you'll see straight away the depth of bouldering that has been developed across every corner of Scotland in the past decade or two.
Even better, let this guide encourage you to pull out a map on your rest day and go for a wander down some random glen or headland and look for new boulders. They are out there. And when you find them, it will be worth it. Just make sure you tell us about them!
The guide, 336 pages, full colour diagrams and photos, is in our shop here (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/boulderscotland.html). You can also see that we have the new training guide Gimme Kraft AIR in stock too, as well as our daily ship-outs of Make or Break and 9 out of 10 climbers...
Here are a few videos of some recent days out, just to remind you of a wee snapshot of the boulders out there.
Drag Race 8A Rannoch Moor (https://vimeo.com/112704613) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The Anatomist, Torridon (https://vimeo.com/111056244) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Gimme That Swing 8B, Glen Nevis (https://vimeo.com/160221796) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Good Drying, 8A+, Arisaig Cave (https://vimeo.com/200457400) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/qnc2oDv_eCo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Cloudjumper VIII,9 on the Ben (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Evcs7fMr10Y/cloudjumper-viii9-on-ben.html)
7 March 2017, 12:03 pm
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ekNfIyeU4YQ/WL6ecJVn8UI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/ME7uRG8F-JoclH7-aUDhoIF73v8XVIhYwCLcB/s640/cloudjumper1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ekNfIyeU4YQ/WL6ecJVn8UI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/ME7uRG8F-JoclH7-aUDhoIF73v8XVIhYwCLcB/s1600/cloudjumper1.jpg)
A couple of teetery moves on the second pitch of Cloudjumper VIII,9 on Ben Nevis
Towards the end of February, Scotland kicks off with good conditions for just about everything at the same time. It’s important to be organised to capitalise on it. I have not been this year. My efforts in the Arisaig Cave have been paying off with excellent progress on my project there. I have now got to the start of the crux section and got good overlapping halves, after several hard training sessions and hard sessions on the project. So the climbing part has been going great.
The trouble is that sessions on it do leave me feeling pretty wasted, with a lot of recovery to do. I realise that these sessions necessitate extra sleep to recover from them properly. I go home, eat dinner, it’s 9 or 10pm and I still have a lot of work to do. I try to work until 11pm, but I never get enough done and it runs to midnight or sometimes after. This is okay if you can catch up the next morning (I am a night owl and this pattern suits me well), but it’s not always possible. Later last week I had a bit of a sleep deprivation meltdown the night before going onto the Ben to try a new route. Every muscle in my body ached from the previous five days of bouldering at my limit. I was worried I would not be ready for the effort of trying a hard new route.
But a frantic run around trying to get everything in order was enough to see me walking up the Ben on Sunday morning with Helen, feeling okay. I did welcome a stop for tea in the hut though. We had been thinking of some objectives in Coire na Ciste, but the Ben was looking very spring-like, with the steeper cliffs looking black. So we were forced to explore the upper reaches of Observatory Gully, near my own route Echo Wall.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VAhP1CSKUFA/WL6eBQLtzJI/AAAAAAAAEPE/x5EkvtexTCUQ9q2XnI03dWGKHYkqwmG2gCLcB/s640/Echo-Wall-small.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VAhP1CSKUFA/WL6eBQLtzJI/AAAAAAAAEPE/x5EkvtexTCUQ9q2XnI03dWGKHYkqwmG2gCLcB/s1600/Echo-Wall-small.jpg)
Our new routes on this part of Tower Ridge. The Great Chimney can be seen on the right side of the shot. Echo Wall is out of sight to the left.
Myself and Helen have done a string of new routes here, partly because it’s a great area and partly because it’s often white when just about everything else isn’t. Right of Echo Wall, Helen and I added an VIII,9 and an IX,9 already, but I was also interested in the complex walls to the left. There was clearly something good to be done, but hard to see exactly where with a myriad of overhangs and grooves and no obvious cracks to lead you.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NNV2murQ4To/WL6eD6EhxOI/AAAAAAAAEPI/q4HIgHltv9Ucf9xzfPp2u_8LSm6dlkdLwCLcB/s640/March5th+2.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NNV2murQ4To/WL6eD6EhxOI/AAAAAAAAEPI/q4HIgHltv9Ucf9xzfPp2u_8LSm6dlkdLwCLcB/s1600/March5th+2.jpg)
Helen on the easier groove above the crux overhang,
After one false start, I headed up left along a technical ramp. I passed a curious in-situ peg with a krab on it, and further up came across another, and a wire, both with krabs on them. A previous highpoint from someone else? I spotted another in-situ piece in the next groove to the left, but I wanted to tackle the cracked overhang directly above my head. As usual with winter, my first couple of forays made me think it was not going to go. I could see why the climber before me had opted to go left again. But soon I figured out some hooks to get to the lip of the overhang. Heart in mouth, I reached over, hoping for something good. My pick found a solid hook, but as I weighted it, a block moved. I hung down on the tool below and wondered what to do.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hK5jDzdWJTk/WL6d-yshzAI/AAAAAAAAEPA/ANM7SPnj-TgeTnBoGUPIzIoWPa7O1ob7ACLcB/s640/March5th+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hK5jDzdWJTk/WL6d-yshzAI/AAAAAAAAEPA/ANM7SPnj-TgeTnBoGUPIzIoWPa7O1ob7ACLcB/s1600/March5th+1.jpg)
Which way now?
It was either bail, or pull the block off and instantly whack it to the side before in hit me square in the face. This worked perfectly (it had to!) and I struggled over and up to a great ledge with options to go left or right. Right looked more possible, and I was tired, so after Helen joined me, I set off on what turned out to be a few teetery moves before gaining the final pitch of our previous route Red Dragon. I topped out on Tower Ridge just in time to catch the sunset and reflect on another great new line on a part of the Ben I am getting to know quite well. We later found out that the route had two previous attempts from the same team, skirting the crux overhang on the left but retreating from higher up.
On my belay sessions, I resolved to return here in summer as well as winter and climb more of the great things here that wait to be done.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ezSsfLT66Ec/WL6eGEzL9_I/AAAAAAAAEPM/rlnNYgtGyKoN3s57bwz7wWNLWBInA-84QCLcB/s640/March5th.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ezSsfLT66Ec/WL6eGEzL9_I/AAAAAAAAEPM/rlnNYgtGyKoN3s57bwz7wWNLWBInA-84QCLcB/s1600/March5th.jpg)
Nice moment to top out.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Evcs7fMr10Y)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Slapped (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/1wOqgXuwqNQ/slapped.html)
11 March 2017, 8:51 am
highpoint March 3rd (https://vimeo.com/207905815) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
The video above is my best effort so far on the project, from a couple of sessions ago when conditions were quite good.
Yesterday, I went to the project in Arisaig and was slapped. Here are my list of excuses (feel free to skip directly to the following paragraph):
Still tired from a new mixed route 48 hours before. Humid conditions. Skin too thick. Not enough sleep. New boots I hadn’t tried before or broken in. Too weak. Too heavy. Too many days away from the training board.
Still, I learned a lot, so the time was not wasted. I have been here before on many projects. None as hard as this, but the stages are often similar. Often, at least at my age, the lessons are not really new things you didn’t know, but crucial reminders of things that are easy to forget.
The first thing reminder was how important the small details are. My ankle must have been a tiny bit stiff from winter climbing a couple of days before. Who knows how little, but it can’t have been as much as a 5 degree loss of dorsiflexion. Not even enough to notice during walking or any moves apart from one. Normally it is a squeeze for me to fit my knee into the kneebar rest before 4th Wave. Today I just couldn’t get the knee in at all. What is normally a straightforward move just didn’t happen. So, redpoints were out. Given the above list of excuses, I realised pretty quickly that it would be a session of reflection on the details of the moves, and reflection on the bigger picture of my progress in general.
On days such as this of utter failure, at least by the measure of how many moves are linked, you see clearly the overwhelming probability that you will never be able to climb this project. It is too hard for you. Something has to be. It would be a bit ridiculous to have chronically underestimated my climbing abilities for over 20 years! At some point, you won’t be able to do something.
This holds no sense of disappointment or stress for me - it’s just inevitable. But the value it does hold is that it sharpens the mind to search for the next level of intervention. What is the next move in the game?
Some moves have trade-offs. Do I leave the project for a week or two and do more training, or keep going on it? Not 100% sure. I am almost certainly getting weaker without training on the board. Yet despite knowing it quite well now, I could still flow through the opening section more efficiently. And that comes from lots of time on it.
I have some equipment issues to sort out. Tomorrow I try out a different kneepad, the original homemade one I made for Echo Wall. It might help a little with sliding the knee in. I know that I need to work more on my core strength for the two minutes of stress hanging upside down off those kneebars. At the moment, it’s a straight trade off between sliding out of the kneebar, and breathing. I need to be able to do both.
Some other things:
- I need a more solid warm up routine for my sessions there. I think I might try ‘add-on’ from the start of the project.- I’m more and more aware of the nuance of conditions in there. I need to take more advantage of good weather days. The cave has okay conditions most of the time, which is fine for working moves. At this stage, I need good conditions now. - I need more rest, better rest. Less work.- I have some work days coming up. I need to combine them with some intense circuit training.
Most of the above is all small but important details. What of big things. Well, most of these I have sorted. But I still have a big hand to play regarding the king of all variables for me; strength: weight ratio. I will play it soon.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/1wOqgXuwqNQ)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Arisaig - to the last hard move (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/k6w4ZEvvtzo/arisaig-to-last-hard-move.html)
17 March 2017, 7:48 pm
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKUsPq6WGoY/WMw8jn3hZDI/AAAAAAAAEQA/fdn008HGrIcuZ1P52SJ83JHpFSC1IGXjACLcB/s640/17349653_1368212416571492_613549350686476203_o.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pKUsPq6WGoY/WMw8jn3hZDI/AAAAAAAAEQA/fdn008HGrIcuZ1P52SJ83JHpFSC1IGXjACLcB/s1600/17349653_1368212416571492_613549350686476203_o.jpg)
Get the left hand squeezed a few mm to the left, and the move works! Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/?fref=nf)
Two days on my project in the cave this week, in the company of Chris Prescott, Natalie Berry and Kevin Woods. On the first day it was still a bit warm and I was feeling pathetic on the climb. I was full of thoughts and chat about sacking it for the season. Maybe it has to be mid-winter for this project?
An hour later, a couple of blasts of wind came soon before my second redpoint of the day, and next thing I got three moves further. Maybe I should not be so hasty to call it. After a rest day we were back, with a cold front having passed over. Yet the day started off very badly and still I struggled.
There are a couple of themes I have noticed in the cave. I always seem to do better on this project late in the session, when my skin is getting thin. I’m not certain why. It may be something to do with the smooth rock. It gets a bit ‘glassy’ if skin is too thick. Also, I’m noticing I consistently have good attempts just before dusk, when of course the temperature is dropping. It could be both factors working together.
I went back to my sequence and wrestled with one adjustment move for over an hour. Finally I sussed what I was doing wrong - getting a weird undercut-wrap hold a finger width too far right. I still wasn’t feeling like there was really much point in a redpoint. But I rested and prepped anyway. And began. The first part to the kneebar was not bad (but not as error-free as I’ve done it). I felt quite rested on the knee bar. As much as you can be while hanging upside down trying to breath as lightly as you can without sliding out and landing on yer heid.
But despite a fluffed move on the opening moves of 4th Wave I found myself beyond my highpoint and feeling like I still had some power. So I used it! I did not intend to do so, but spontaneously had a power-scream match with the crux that Adam Ondra would be proud of. I momentarily had that weird floaty feeling where it just seemed to be happening by itself. I threw for the final hard move, held it, cut loose, held on but then started to drop. If I’d held on long enough to get my feet back on, I’d very likely have done it. But I didn’t. I cannot decide if in that split second I truly held on to the last, or if I might have decided a few milliseconds too early that I was off. It doesn’t matter much now anyway, except that I know what I need to do if I get back to that move again.
Better keep trying now!Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/k6w4ZEvvtzo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Arisaig Cave topo (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/-yMUBAXxrYk/arisaig-cave-topo.html)
20 March 2017, 10:21 am
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5oXDZY-6Lw8/WMvEmwE5wNI/AAAAAAAAEPs/3qpCl991d6coaLihbDqkP-1prwOtLazUwCLcB/s640/17240375_1707602822589335_1018468132882177489_o.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5oXDZY-6Lw8/WMvEmwE5wNI/AAAAAAAAEPs/3qpCl991d6coaLihbDqkP-1prwOtLazUwCLcB/s1600/17240375_1707602822589335_1018468132882177489_o.jpg)
Natalie Berry on The Original 7B, the classic of the cave. Pic: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
I've been meaning to prepare a topo of the Arisaig Cave for ages. I've also made a PDF version of it here if you want to print it and take it with you. Enjoy!
The cave offers a weatherproof medium-hard bouldering venue that is in good condition for at least 6 months of the year. In the dark Lochaber months from October until February, it can often be the only outdoor rock climbing on offer, at least on the wettest days.
There are not a huge humber of climbs, but the ones that are there are good quality, generally long and involved and so provide good entertainment. I opened the first problems in 2009 and still have not quite climbed all the obvious lines. Most of the problems were opened by me and have not had many repeats so the grades may still need adjustment.
The rock is quartzite, relatively kind on the skin, but the climbing is generally powerful and gives a good workout. All of the steep climbs are also sequency and reward a persistent approach, seeking out the crucial toe-hooks, kneebars etc.
Although all the climbs in the cave are totally protected from the rain and there are almost no seeps either, the conditions can be affected by the weather sometimes. If the conditions have been cold and then warm up, the cave can be damp for a day or two with condensation. This is generally not too often, but watch the weather and just avoid going right after a warm front has passed through. Otherwise, you can climb there no matter how bad the weather. Several of the climbs have been done at night, during the worst of the December and January storms. Although the cave comes into it’s own as a place to climb in the winter, it does also remain relatively cool in summer and midges are rarely a problem.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JDYZ6luQVT0/WM-jS3v4_YI/AAAAAAAAEQg/ntucOdmTpTMMAWhn-mJU5DHrp_GT4jQpACLcB/s640/Cavemapwide.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JDYZ6luQVT0/WM-jS3v4_YI/AAAAAAAAEQg/ntucOdmTpTMMAWhn-mJU5DHrp_GT4jQpACLcB/s1600/Cavemapwide.jpg)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2qlFAZ8vsMQ/WM-jT_xs1VI/AAAAAAAAEQk/XxovO7LGviUCIuWTK5lGjyAAbpoQno2LACLcB/s640/cavemaptight.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2qlFAZ8vsMQ/WM-jT_xs1VI/AAAAAAAAEQk/XxovO7LGviUCIuWTK5lGjyAAbpoQno2LACLcB/s1600/cavemaptight.jpg)
The approach takes around 20 minutes and crosses some boggy ground. Turn off the Road to the Isles into Arisaig Village and then turn left onto the B8008, signposted Rhu. After 1.6 miles, park next to a farmers gate at the back of an open bay, taking care not to block the gate. The drive takes around an hour from Fort William. Cross the gate and follow a feint path across fields, aiming for a holly tree on the skyline. Just beyond this, cross a stile beside the lochan and continue on a better defined path over the brow of the hill. You’ll now see the attractive pebble beach of Camas Leathann on the other side of the peninsula. The path leads down to the right edge of this (looking out to sea). The cave is 100m right (west) of the end of the pebble beach. scramble round some rocks at the right end of the beach and you’ll come across the obvious triangular entrance of the cave. You don’t see it until you are right on it.
The ‘landung’ is flat and consists of dry sheep poo. Once you get over this, it’s no problem and totally dry. But for those who like a clean boulder mat, take a tarp with you. The problems are described roughly left to right, starting with the leaning arete of the steep side.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OaeC0dvShEQ/WM-jQXoiSrI/AAAAAAAAEQc/6NYDVrAxw-0WrA97_y5YOo-55EhYfRX-wCLcB/s640/Arisaig-topo-4small.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OaeC0dvShEQ/WM-jQXoiSrI/AAAAAAAAEQc/6NYDVrAxw-0WrA97_y5YOo-55EhYfRX-wCLcB/s1600/Arisaig-topo-4small.jpg)
1. West Wall Arete 6B. Sit Start and layback up the edge of the steep arete, pulling over on jugs. Step left and down climb the buggy slab to descend.
2. All The Small Things 8A. SS at the arete, at an undercut spike. Follow the obvious line of holds leading rightwards into the cave, finishing up Bone Broke, at the jug/hole in the apex. Sustained and superb climbing.
3. At Eternity’s Gate 8A+/8B. Follow All The Small Things along the line of holds but then reverse the first few moves of The Original and keep traversing right to a welcome but strenuous kneebar rest at a triangular hole. Continue right, avoiding the blocks coming out of the ground. Using tiny holds, gain a heel hook on the ramp of Barista School (crux). Once established on this, shake out at the jugs (bat-hang possible) and finish along Fruit Machine, hopefully without blowing it right at the end! Originally given 8B but that was before the kneebar was found (after the original resting jug broke off). So it may or may not only be 8A+ now?
4. Good Drying. 8A+. Eternity’s Gate into Cowspiracy.
5. Project 8C. Eternity’s Gate into 4th Wave. A very demanding piece of climbing.
6. Triangulation Stand 7A. Right of the arete is a thin crack. Start using a finger lock in this and protruding crimp. Powerful drop-knee moves lead to jugs over the lip.
7. Triangulation 8A. SS away down in the very base of the low cave below the crack, at an undercut and gaston. hard moves lead to the base of the crack, but the crux is gaining the finger lock of the stand start. Fortunately there are a couple of different methods to choose from.
8. The Original 7B. Locate a two-handed, sharp edged undercut at the back of the cave, feet on the steep wall underneath. undercut outwards to the good edge on the ramp feature and continue directly, past a huge sidepull, finishing on edges in the crack in the apex. An extended finish continuing out of the cave on the apex crack has not been done yet (probably 7B+ or 7C). A classic problem.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-StozoUXY7ds/WM-jL1Lp75I/AAAAAAAAEQQ/N8Wolw6iemwGG2Jm1-W91kHvwOisjTNOwCLcB/s640/Arisaig-topo-3small.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-StozoUXY7ds/WM-jL1Lp75I/AAAAAAAAEQQ/N8Wolw6iemwGG2Jm1-W91kHvwOisjTNOwCLcB/s1600/Arisaig-topo-3small.jpg)
9. Bone Broke 7C. Extends the fun even more. Follow The Original most of the way, then go rightwards to gain the next undercut wave feature. Undercut this rightwards to a finish on a big jug/hole at the cave apex.
10. Cowspiracy 7C. SS below the kneebar hole. Climb direct with a tricky move to gain a weird finger lock slot. Use this to reach into the finishing moves of Bone Broke.
11. 4th Wave 8B. SS below the kneebar hole. Follow the undercut wave feature with technical and powerful weirdness, finishing on twin edges right up at the apex. Superb technical climbing.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClH30Vht2fE/WMvEm0QF0EI/AAAAAAAAEPw/cWsmgEQ7oHEjt8U_BzaAReoJ0mvaYRbSwCLcB/s640/17311154_1366784780047589_7739651402740083691_o.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClH30Vht2fE/WMvEm0QF0EI/AAAAAAAAEPw/cWsmgEQ7oHEjt8U_BzaAReoJ0mvaYRbSwCLcB/s1600/17311154_1366784780047589_7739651402740083691_o.jpg)
Myself on 4th Wave 8B. Pic Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mm6B3jLystE/WM-jOyhSoKI/AAAAAAAAEQU/qf98yTUNQgMuKu4kVU8PKPrGf9LM8UNSACLcB/s640/Arisaig-topo-2small.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mm6B3jLystE/WM-jOyhSoKI/AAAAAAAAEQU/qf98yTUNQgMuKu4kVU8PKPrGf9LM8UNSACLcB/s1600/Arisaig-topo-2small.jpg)
12. Fruit Machine 7B+. Start along the jugs as for Barista School but drop down and shuffle along the good undercuts to where they run out. Reach right for a good wobbly slot and then make a technical sequence to reach across the apex to finish on the big rounded nose on the other side.
13. Barista School 6A+. Start at the base of the huge jug-rail. Layback up this until it’s possible to rock over to spiky undercuts directly above. Slot the good kneebar in, and finish matching the twin slopers above, near the apex.
14. Barista School RH start 6B+. Start right of the jug rail, on the good undercuts. Reach a nice incut crimp above and lock this out to get the edge of the ramp, then the jugs, and a finish up Barista School.
15. Half Apex 7A. SS at the back of the cave at a poor triangular pinch. Make a tricky move up then go hard left, reversing the first part of Fruit Machine. Finish up Barista School.
16. Apex 7C. Start as for Half Apex. Use that good kneebar to rest, and instead of jumping down, continue on the apex and make tricky moves to gain the jug/hole at the end of Bone Broke. From here, use undercuts to drop down onto the Right Wall Traverse and finish along this. Epic!
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d0O5HD68bSA/WM-jO1p7G9I/AAAAAAAAEQY/VfLeoaOBLSsScUq2Fnef91OY9YTHnspTgCLcB/s640/Arisaig-topo-1small.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d0O5HD68bSA/WM-jO1p7G9I/AAAAAAAAEQY/VfLeoaOBLSsScUq2Fnef91OY9YTHnspTgCLcB/s1600/Arisaig-topo-1small.jpg)
17. Right Wall Traverse 7C. Start at the big rounded nose at the back of the cave and traverse the less steep side all the way to the slab outside the cave. The first few metres are the crux, powerful and technical on low crimpy sidepulls.
18. The Late Show 6C. Start easily up undercut jugs mid-way along the cave. Reach an L-shaped hold, match it and make a tricky press move to get the jug/hole at the end of Bone Broke. The last two moves are deceptively tricky.
19. After the Race 6A+. Further right is a groove with a shield of rock above. Start on flat holds on the left side of the groove and climb up and round the left side of the shield. Finish on the sloper rail.
20. Lend an Ear 6A. Climb the Groove and swing round the right side of the shield using a spiky sidepull. 6A+ if you continue rightwards and exit the cave.
21. Otter Watch 5. From a low start climb the featured wall just left of the arete of the cave and swing round onto the slab. Various eliminates possible as a warm-up for the harder things.
Dave MacLeod on "All The Small Things" font 8a, Arisaig (https://vimeo.com/10779782) from peter murray (https://vimeo.com/user1801594) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
4th Wave, 8B first ascent (https://vimeo.com/149216716) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Good Drying, 8A+, Arisaig Cave (https://vimeo.com/200457400) from Dave MacLeod (https://vimeo.com/user799476) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/-yMUBAXxrYk)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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The approach takes around 20 minutes and crosses some boggy ground.
If a scottish climber warns you of that, you know it's going to be the next level of approach grimness!!
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Wellies essential
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Wellies Snorkel essential
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The Fort (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/ik8qTdcBYXo/the-fort.html)
21 March 2017, 11:03 am
The Fort (https://vimeo.com/205037508) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
I’m delighted to share a film we shot last summer for the Nevis Landscape Partnership (http://www.nevislandscape.co.uk/index.php), and premiered at the Fort William Mountain Festival last month. It’s my first archaeology film!
The Iron Age fort of Dun Deardail in Glen Nevis always caught my eye when walking off the summit of Ben Nevis after a winter climb. It’s striking ring-like remains on the summit of a conical hill across the glen always catches the late afternoon sun. I always resolved to find out more about the fort but never did. So it was great to hear that the Nevis Landscape Partnership had arranged a three-year project to excavate the fort for the first time, and that myself and Claire would be filming it this year.
I’m always fascinated to learn something about scientific disciplines I know little about and the archaeologists I interviewed during the excavation were great to listen to and really opened my mind to think about the themes of archaeology in general, and get a better vision of life in Glen Nevis thousands of years ago. Enjoy the film.
PS: If you liked it, maybe you have not yet seen the NLP films we made in the previous two years. Here they are:
Ben Nevis : The Hidden Side (https://vimeo.com/120680778) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Ben Nevis · Wild Times (https://vimeo.com/159920070) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Nineteen Projects (https://vimeo.com/205053139) from Nevis Landscape Partnership (https://vimeo.com/nevislandscape) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/ik8qTdcBYXo)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Lithium (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/LSfDa6Vy6wE/lithium.html)
23 March 2017, 12:50 pm
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uN26rAhmGNI/WNO_zOZNJuI/AAAAAAAAEQ0/5X8TqtLv_YQBr-L8nJlti0uDCZv_-pVswCLcB/s640/Arisaig+send1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uN26rAhmGNI/WNO_zOZNJuI/AAAAAAAAEQ0/5X8TqtLv_YQBr-L8nJlti0uDCZv_-pVswCLcB/s1600/Arisaig+send1.jpg)
A video still on the send of Lithium 8B+, Arisaig.
Yesterday, I sent my project in the Arisaig Cave. Nine years after Johan first told me about the cave, that’s me climbed all the good lines. Time to move on! I’ll really miss the place. I’ll miss driving west on the Road to The Isles, leaving behind torrential rain or snow in Fort William, to arrive into bright sunshine as you hit the coast at Lochailort. I’ll miss watching otters and sea eagles going about their business on the beachfront by the cave, as I went about mine. I’ll miss a pre-climb brew in the Arisaig caf, looking out to Eigg. And of course I’ll miss the superbly physical and technical climbs.
In many ways, my days at the cave have helped me to see just how much climbing helps me with life. Given that the climb is almost 50 moves long, in the past few weeks as I’ve reached the stage of redpoint attempts, I’ve needed to rest for the best part of an hour between tries. This experience took me back to doing the same, seven years ago on At Eternity’s Gate (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2010/05/big-link-in-cave-complete.html), which is similarly long.
On those long rests you walk the coast to stay warm and send lactate through the Cori Cycle. But more importantly, you reflect. There is not much time for that in modern life, even in many types of climbing. Going to the wall to train, for example, is not often a great reflective opportunity.
On both those long climbs with long walks in between, being there and doing them helped me get through some very bleak feelings I was having. It did not diminish them, or take them away. Just helped me to remain resilient. For that I am very grateful. Thankfully, I’m lucky enough to live in a country full of places like this, and have the opportunity to spend time in them, so there should be no trouble having similar experiences elsewhere.
Why did I send it now? A huge list of things. I would say that first and foremost, my two primary changes I made to my training had the desired and dominant effect. Firstly, I basically cut 4 hours out of my work day and replaced it with winding down time and going to be early for around a month. Secondly and even more importantly, I dropped my CHO intake south of 50g per day again (on most but not all days), together with restricting the daily feeding window to 6-8 hours. This made my ass lighter and improved my recovery from training. NB I am skipping over a whole world of detail here! I also continued to make improvements in the sequence, right up to the successful try. On the last hard move, I consciously focused on arching and stiffening my back as I threw for the hold. In combination with a hefty power scream, this kept my feet on. I also continued to get more used to the upside-down rest position on the halfway kneebar, and could relax more, stay longer and breath deeper than on previous sessions. I also timed my sessions nicely with good conditions, for once. I also solved my ‘glassy skin’ issue by rubbing some thick skin off my hands on sharp rocks, and then washing them in water to get to the ideal balance of cold and dry vs soft and sticky. At last I could really apply my strength fully to those smooth undercuts.
The psychological side of the attempts I usually find the most straightforward. I definitely feel that I have a good system in place for managing my level of effort and controlling any nerves or self-consciousness. However, On the successful try I was particularly lucky that I had to dry a couple of seepy wet footholds (the climb starts outside the cave, and is the only part of the venue to be exposed to seeps). After drying them I had only a few seconds to get started before the water ran back onto the,. So there was no time to develop any sense of anticipation for the attempt ahead. In fact, I had to spend the moments on the first kneebar trying to try the other kneepad which had caught some drips as I started. So I arrived at the crux with a fresh mind, unhindered by any sense of occasion, and was free just to be in the moment and give it everything. On that last try I was definitely climbing through the moves faster than ever before. So it made sense that I surpassed the previous highpoints.
***Warning: boring part below. Feel free to stop here***
I’ll call the climb Lithium, and grade it 8B+. I have gone round in circles with the grade for a day or two. 8B+ in the UK is pretty tough. I am not certain this is a grade harder than some of them, nor have I done enough of them to know. So since I am not sure, I’ll just go with 8B+. I also completed the project quicker than I expected, a sure sign that it is easier than my initial expectation.
It is definitely harder than Malcolm Smith’s Gutbuster 8B+ at Dumby, which I almost did ten years ago, just before I moved away from Dumby and before Malc’s FA. But is it a grade harder? - I suspect so, but not sure. Going by Magic Wood, where I have done a lot of my boulder repeats in recent years, Lithium is definitely a grade harder than New Base Line 8B+ (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/new-base-line.html), Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+ (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2016/04/magic-times.html), Mystic Styles 8B+ (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/dave-film.html) and definitely harder than Practice of the Wild 8C (http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/practice-of-wild.html). It feels similar in difficulty to In Search of Time Lost 8C which I tried for two sessions at the end of my last trip, and got good links on. But perhaps it is easier than The Understanding 8C which I tried for 30 mins but couldn’t do. By this logic perhaps it’s nearest easy 8C. But again, the UK perhaps has stiffer grading. Whether that is right or wrong is another argument. The bottom line is that it is very hard to reduce grading to an entirely rational calculation. I just don’t do enough bouldering to have a good handle on grades.
It’s also a very specific type of climb, in some ways it plays to my strengths (steep, with rests and technical). But I think I am really weak on the undercuts and pinches. So someone else might find them much easier than me. So, lets go with 8B+. One thing I am fairly confident about is that it is the hardest boulder yet climbed in Scotland.
Anyway, bring on the spring and more great climbs this year.
PS: In case anyone wonders about video of the send, it’ll be in a feature I’m doing with Chris Prescott this year which will hopefully include some great trad projects I’ll be pointing myself at in the coming few months.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/LSfDa6Vy6wE)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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So 8C then :smart: :2thumbsup: :dance1:
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So 8C then :smart: :2thumbsup: :dance1:
Yip, don't dick about.
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I am very curious about the reason behind the name.
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Nirvana fan.
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If you go on his blog page in the comments the first one says
Malcolm Smith23 March, 2017, This comment has been removed by the author.
I won't re-post verbatim just to shit stir but since I agree with the sentiment ill roughly paraphrase with my own opinion;
If the grades are harder here, and Gut buster is 8b+, how can Lithium be 8b+? you say its a grade harder than Gutbuster, but you haven't done Gutbuster. It can't be both a grade harder than Gutbuster and the same grade as Gutbuster. Too afraid to downgrade Malcs problem? Oh no thats right you can't, because you havenae done it.
If Lithium is 8c why don't you just put your balls on the block and say it?
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Please let's not jump the gun here, we've not even had the video to dab-audit yet.
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LOL! Whilst sat in Arisaig 'caf' gazing at Eigg I wonder if he ever thinks about that other climb that needs it's grade confirming?
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:popcorn:
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He says is harder than Practice too which he still likes to take 8C for. But then gives it 8B+.
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Good effort but it doesn't make sense to say it's harder than all the 8B+'s and one 8C he's done and feels it's the same grade as another 8C he tried then say it's 8B+, he's just saying it's 8C without actually saying it...?
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Not sure what the confusion is to be honest... he says it's harder than gutbuster 8B+ but not sure if a whole grade harder and its harder than some swiss 8b+/8C's and easier than other swiss 8Cs. ALso the grading is generally softer there than the UK. Given all that and the fact grading a project FA is really hard it doesn't seem to be that controversial to give it 8B+. Honestly this place is getting to be worse than ukc.
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Honestly this place is getting to be worse than ukc.
No. It's fucking not.
From Dave Mac:
"Lithium is definitely a grade harder than New Base Line 8B+, Shallow Water to Riverbed 8B+, Mystic Styles 8B+ and definitely harder than Practice of the Wild 8C. It feels similar in difficulty to In Search of Time Lost 8C."
Simply put, he doesn't want to risk having it downgraded. Which, to some extent, is legit. But then he also wants to let everyone know that it's 8c. From a pro climber I want straight and clear opinions because it's their fucking job.
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Sounds like what he should have done was fess up at the time and said he thought POTW was only 8b+, which is in effect what he's implying here.
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In any case, we are talking about something that's 50 moves long, so who cares...
;)
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Sounds like what he should have done was fess up at the time and said he thought POTW was only 8b+, which is in effect what he's implying here.
Few others have started saying that too.
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Dave Mac is an idiot.
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All he seems to be saying is that Swiss grades are generally a grade easier than UK and is using some examples to make the point, I find this sort of insight around top level grading interesting, especially as all we normally get is innuendo or silence.
He's obviously decided to grade it in accordance with UK norms to avoid getting a load of online flack........
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Well yeah... but he also lacked the whatever it is to take a personal grade for those swiss grades; and instead he played the pro-climber and happily let the media give him the plaudits and the higher grade. Compare with someone like Ondra - well known for offering honest grade opinions on his repeats, despite them potentially lowering the level of his perceived achievement in the climbing media.
For context - read Dave Mac's blog posts, which contain numerous references to climbing font 8C, font 8B+, 'new levels' etc etc. But if he doesn't really think they are that grade then he should say so and not suggest he's reaching new levels if he doesn't really believe this.
In contrast - he's extremely cautious of giving his own creations a higher grade. Presumably for fear they'll be downgraded in the same way as he clearly thinks other problems should be.
So it's no surprise that some people think D.M. isn't being totally legit with those grade comparisons.
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Basically what he's saying that the grades in Swizzy are wack and all you grade chasers need to stop taking the easy grade for stuff. Blanket downgrade of Swiss problems. Or something.
50 moves though... Sounds like a route to me haha! As an aside, when folks say 50 moves, does that imply hand movements? I just counted the moves in the last hard route I did at Dumbuck. 5 bolts, 12m, 15 hand moves.
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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what's that in YDS then?
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5.13a innit!
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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Who cares. At least he didn't give it 9D or E12 or whatever.
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Ohhh, grading spray. My fave.
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Why not give it 'Scottish VS' then :-\
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Scottish V,5 you mean?
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I am very curious about the reason behind the name.
Probably because Lithium is a mood stabiliser used to treat a variety of psychiatric problems and he talks about working on the problem helping him through a rough patch.
On both those long climbs with long walks in between, being there and doing them helped me get through some very bleak feelings I was having. It did not diminish them, or take them away. Just helped me to remain resilient. For that I am very grateful.
Also, from the comments on the blog
Congrats on Scotlands hardest boulder. It sounds like its borderline British 8C and definitely 8C anywhere else. Good effort!
So no more :worms: To be blunt it's making you guys look quite petty.
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Good effort, awesome to hear, I wonder if it will see a repeat in the future? Seems like a crag that you might have to invest a fair amount of time into, to build specific fitness etc! I guess its not very local to many, so maybe not. Will Bosi?
On that note has anyone tried Dave's harder climbs;
- Skypilot
- Natural Method
Also, has only one 8C in the UK has been repeated; Serenata by Ned and Dawid?
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On that note has anyone tried Dave's harder climbs;
- Skypilot
- Natural Method
think Skypilot is the crag - Seven of Nine is the problem?
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"Sky Pilot" is actually the name given to area of the valley near the route of that name
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=90634
7 of 9 is the problem name though.
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So no more :worms: To be blunt it's making you guys look quite petty.
As petty as writing a bitchy comment on a blog, then deleting it? Or in response to said deleted comment you take time out of your hectic schedule of dietary indecision to dig out some old footage and upload it to youtube..?
Exactly that petty, aye.
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The bitchy negative flavour of the comments on this thread are an embarrassment.
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Dave Mac's illogical (a grade harder than 8B+s so grades it 8B+), duplicitous (happily takes column inches for 8B+/C repeats without clearly downgrading them) and half-arsed (vaguely implies that UK grading is harder than Swiss without being explicit about full grade differences) explanation of his grading is the embarrassment, you know it and he probably knows it too.
If he'd either applied logic and given it 8C, or previously downgraded his Swiss ascents, or made it clear in this that Swiss grades (and Gutbuster were wrong) so they're 8Bs and this is 8B+, it would make some sort of sense. As it is, well, there's nothing to really bitch about as it's just quite funny.
He's a far far better climber than he is a player of the "beating around the bush" grade game (see various comments on Breathless vs Rhapsody comparison, Echo Wall, Longhope Route, Hold Fast Hold True etc).
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I understand nothing. I thought it was OK to take holiday grades when on holiday?
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I can see next week's headlines now. 'Dave MacLeod in grading shocker'. When questioned, he responded; "I didn't realise grading was an exact science".
The glue factory just called. They want their dead horse back.
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was the reliability of conditions (Dave mentioned this, I think) something that contributed to the grade decision?
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Wow remus that was pathetic.
How about you refute my points - which are merely reiterating what people wrote earlier up the thread in response to rosmat - before you accuse me of whining and jump for the punter button.
Or if it's of no interest, just ignore the discussion eh.
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How's this: Grades are weird, illogical and make no sense. Grading FAs even more so. If I want people to reiterate the point ad-infinitum I'll pop over to UKC.
Thanks for the facebook message by the way, much appreciated.
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You're a tit Fiend.
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Many thanks for the puntering; it can go on my CV. Now where's my facebook message?
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(https://cdn.meme.am/instances/50523445.jpg)
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Guys. It's fucking obvious. On the day he did it he thought it was worth 8C+. You take that grade and you knock two grades off it. THAT'S the exact science behind grading FAs because if there's one thing that's going to get you slagged it's having your problems downgraded.
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Kinda wish he had graded it like that, might prompt someone to be outraged enough to go downgrade it. Now it's just another of his nails problems that won't be done for years. He's probably so conservative with his grading because he's unlikely to be around to defend himself when they get repeats and would rather MacLeod 8B be remembered like Bancroft 6a.
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LOL! Whilst sat in Arisaig 'caf' gazing at Eigg I wonder if he ever thinks about that other climb that needs it's grade confirming?
Ha! I heard a rumour he had tried and failed.... If the Eigg massacre of 1577 is still remembered i doubt the MacLeod's are particularly welcome on the island.
Sorry not got any shit to stir re grades
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The fact that grading, especially a FA, isn't an exact science, doesn't allow illogical statements like: "It's harder than many 8b+'s, it's as hard as an 8c, I'll give it 8b+." Especially if you make a profession out of climbing.
I don't understand why he went into all that contradictory reasoning, instead of simply giving it 8b+ and stopping it there.
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Seems like he's he trying to explain his reasoning. Quite a bit of dithering going on but it isn't DM's fault that other problems aren't graded exactly and consistently with each other either.
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No that isn't his fault.
But it is his choice to write blog stories - that will inevitably be taken up and used by the climbing media as fact - detailing the painstaking training he went through in order to, in his words, 'reach a new level of Font 8C' and the dieting regimen he figured out by researching lots because 'I still had a hunch that somewhere beneath my tyre was a potential Font 8C climber'.
And it's also his choice to put himself out there as a pro climber and use his ascents to raise and keep his profile out there - for e.g. when he boulders what people perceive as font 8C level - because the climbing media says he did and D.M. isn't offering any alternative suggestion.. (which I think should be part of the deal for reporting on pros, if grades are to have any meaning other than being public profile boosters for climbers who make a living from the activity).
Great climber but he plays games. Looking forward to his next heroic journey.
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In any case, we are talking about something that's 50 moves long, so who cares...
;)
amen brother, if its got more than 3 moves count me out :beer2:
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Busy spring (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/PzCFRBVER-0/busy-spring.html)
22 May 2017, 9:50 am
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fctz0M5yLk4/WSKiopTFCHI/AAAAAAAAESQ/JPtgEhoIgP4zU-PxCAQkTmUrouSrECLkwCLcB/s640/17620125_1390356111023789_5111467316622638021_o.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Fctz0M5yLk4/WSKiopTFCHI/AAAAAAAAESQ/JPtgEhoIgP4zU-PxCAQkTmUrouSrECLkwCLcB/s1600/17620125_1390356111023789_5111467316622638021_o.jpg)
FA of The Mighty Chondria E7 6c, 5c on Creag Mo, Isle of Harris. Pic by Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
It’s a good sign when you are too busy being outside climbing all the time to write a blog. Finally it is raining today after quite a few weeks or largely dry and fine weather in the highlands. I’ve been keen as mustard to get out after the general absence of climbing last season. After climbing my project at Arisaig in April, I spent a couple of weeks trying another 8B+ boulder and was ridiculously close for 5 sessions in a row. But for one reason or another, it didn’t work out and I’ve missed my window. It was a long shot anyway. I was losing fitness from being out on rock with lots of rest days and zero training, so you can only maintain a peak for so long in this pattern.
I've got to say, I will really miss the bouldering season. I really really enjoyed it and didn't want it to end. Maybe that's because I focused on it a bit more instead of trying to go mixed climbing in the rubbish winter for snow and ice? Either way, I'm already thinking of next season.
I’ve also been on the trad. First up I went to Harris with Masa, Chris and Nat. We were a bit early and it was baltic. I tried to climb anyway and on one day where it was slightly less windy and cold, I did a brilliant two pitch E7 on Creag Mo called The Mighty Chondria. The first pitch takes the same 35 foot horizontal roof I climbed further right on The Realm (E8) some years ago, this time via a big crack with lots of kneebarring and undercutting madness. That pitch is a fine 7c+ wrestle. Pitch two felt like a grade VIII winter route, and not just because it was almost cold enough to me mixed climbing. It was a highly traditional pitch, with some drips, some chimneying, some great rock, some turf and some darkness at the end. Masa followed me in the dark and we abbed off into the blackness below.
That was pretty much it for the week, I cleaned another awesome four star E7, but on the last morning it was a waterfall pouring over the crag as the next front arrived and we just retrieved the gear and headed for the Calmac.
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Finishing the FA of Lucky Break E8 6c, Binnien Shuas. So happy with this route.
Since then I got back onto Binnien Shuas and led the E8 which I fell off and broke my leg last September. That was very satisfying and I shall write about that in a separate post as there is a bit to the story. I even got onto the Ben and repeated Trajan’s Column E6 6b with Calum. This felt surprisingly not too bad. Maybe I was just hyped up by the description that made it sound scary? I must admit that because I often do new routes, I sometimes get psyched out by guidebook descriptions. I’ve also been exploring some other new venues with massive potential. More of that later.
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FA of The Circus 8a+ at Loch Maree Crag. Yes it is that big! The route is an extension to Hafgufa and was bolted by Ian Taylor who kindly let me climb it. It's an awesome climb, nearly 50 metres long and with great holds and climbing.
Last week I was up at the new sport sector on Loch Maree Crag. I’d seen a couple of pics of the place and it looked really big, steep and waterproof. And of course in a lovely setting as you would expect from a highland crag. It was even better than I expected. I repeated the great existing 8as and Ian Taylor kindly let me finish the huge extension to Hafgufa that he’d bolted which gave a monster 50m 8a+ called The Circus. This was an intensely enjoyable climb with brilliant exposure up the top arete, where the climbing is easier and you can just enjoy yourself. An absolute must-do for anyone climbing at the grade. I’ll be back here with my drill, soon.
Fingers crossed for some more mountain crags type weather coming up.
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Cold hands on Trajan's Column E6 6b, Ben Nevis. This is a must do E6, people.
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Move it or Park it E5 6c in Glen Nevis. Now without it's pegs but still a well protected route with a tricky move.
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Calum Muskett eyeing up a huge arete. Many, many new routes to do here.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/PzCFRBVER-0)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Healed (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/KjPwsrhNA6w/healed.html)
5 June 2017, 8:20 pm
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Repeating Iain Small's Siege Engine E7 6c yesterday. Amazingly carefree feeling just to have to worry about sending the route and not much else. The rope is hanging down another project which goes out left across the roof. Cant wait to get back on that one. Photo: Kevin Woods (http://www.kevinwoods.co.uk/)
Last September I broke my leg on Binnien Shuas. I didn’t really write much about it on this blog for a couple of reasons. First, because I was pretty upset with just how badly the whole climbing day went wrong and second, because the accident was only really the start of the story. I felt like I needed to try and recover before making any sort of sense of it.
Yesterday I was up at Binnien Shuas again and repeated Iain Small’s superb new E7 ‘Siege Engine’. On the way down I stopped at the nice beach by Lochan na h Earba and just took a moment to enjoy being there and not having a broken leg, and instead to be heading off for some dinner after a nice afternoon climbing.
What a contrast to when I stood by that beach for two or three horrible hours in September.
It started with a crap July and August with continuous rain in the west highlands. I’d bet on doing Scottish mountain trad for the summer instead of going to an alpine big wall. My gamble had fallen on its face. The best I managed was three days of mountain trad with two E8s and one E9. Instead I spent most of the summer on my board. So I was quite fit, but getting fed up waiting to actually climb some rock. So when a couple of dry days appeared, I cleaned and worked a great project though the roof on Binnien Shuas. It was around 8a climbing with enough gear and a brilliant line. If I could just salvage this project from the summer, I’d feel happy with that.
As August drew into September, the rain just kept coming. My friend Masa and I had made several arrangements to go into Shuas, only to bail at the last moment as the rain was worse than forecast. It was getting ridiculous. One morning we bailed again, but by 1pm it looked better and Masa texted to see if I still wanted to go in and look. I bit his hand off for the opportunity and next thing I was abbing down the project. It was just dry enough. Masa climbed first and tried Ardanfreaky (E3) but found the crux bulge wet and took a good whipper, before lowering off. He looked disappointed. It underlined the desperation of trying to trad climb when the weather is just not playing the game.
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Abseiling down the line and drying holds. I should probably have just left it for another day! Photo: Masa Sakano
I racked up carefully ready to lead my project. I was really excited. It had literally been months since I’d tied in to start up a hard trad route and I couldn’t wait for the opportunity to go for it. I pulled onto the start and climbed up a couple of moves, reaching for a big flat undercut above my head. The next second, I was tumbling through the air. The side pull I’d been holding with my right hand had broken off. I shot off backwards without any warning and landed hard on my right foot on the sloping rock slab below, slammed into Masa and both of us stopped in a heap of tangled ropes in the heather slope below.
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One minute later I had a broken leg. Enough said. Photo: Masa Sakano
I stood up in a little shock and disbelief as to why I was suddenly back on the ground. I felt okay but within seconds could feel my right ankle and leg beginning to hurt. It didn’t feel too bad, but I also felt a familiar feeling of adrenaline and shock from previous climbing accidents, killing the pain and giving me a peculiar buzz racing through my brain. I put my boots on and walked around a few steps. Within minutes I realised all was not well in my ankle. But this was not the time to consider feeling sorry for myself. I realised I needed to get myself out of a mountain crag situation rapidly, before I would need to bother a mountain rescue team.
I agreed with Masa that I would start hobbling down the hill with my poles straight away and he would retrieve my static rope which was still hanging down from the top of the crag and meet me at our bikes by the beach.
Off I went, in more and more pain but determined just to get down to safety before letting myself worry about the future. Masa had the option of either walking to the top of the cliff, locating a scramble down to a terrace and getting down this to access the static, or soloing a V-Diff gully climb to arrive directly at the terrace; harder but much quicker. Just before I dipped down the hill out of sight of the crag, I looked back once to see Masa starting to climb the gully.
When I eventually reached the beach by the loch, I took off my boot, put my swollen ankle into the cold water and sat and felt sorry for myself. I’ve had three ankle surgeries in the past four years and spent over a year on crutches. I was finding it hard not to get miserable at the prospect of going through it all again. But what else could I do?
Time passed, a lot of time. It started getting dark and midges bit me. Masa still hadn’t appeared. I’d hobbled down the whole way on a broken leg and he still hadn’t caught me up. Shit. What could be delaying him. As it got dark, I went over possibilities in my mind and got more and more agitated and intensely worried. Realistically, a fall would be the most likely cause of delay and he was last seen soloing to the top of the cliff!
I could not sit still and hobbled round to the far side of the beach so I could see more of the approach path and the cliff. No sign. But the light was failing. I strained my eyes and kidded myself that distant rocks were in fact Masa walking down. There wasn’t much point in me hobbling back up on a broken leg to look for him. What would I achieve? But I was reluctant to raise alarm before I had any evidence of something going wrong. Trad climbing faff can suck up a lot of time. But at some point I’d have to make the decision. I stood for nearly an hour in full ‘fight or flight’ mode, my heart pounding in my chest, shaking and really upset. Finally, my eyes saw a spec of moving orange below the crag. Was it? Shit I’ve lost it again. Then I saw it again, a little lower. My heart dropped a little from my mouth. But it was basically dark now and as I looked lower again, I couldn't see anything else. For a further 20 minutes I cursed my eyes for showing me what I desperately wanted to see.
But then, there he was, appearing almost right in front of me out of the darkness. Masa was a marvellous sight despite looking pretty dishevelled, helmet lopped to one side on his head and generally looking muddy and messy. ‘Are you alright?’ was the only thing I could think of to say. I just wanted him to say something so I knew I wasn’t hallucinating. ‘Kind of’ came the answer back. As swarms of midges devoured us, Masa told me that he’d slipped near the top of the V-Diff and fallen the full length of the route. But that every time he’d hit ledges on the way down, he had landed on his back on the rucksack full of ropes and gear. After spending some time in a heap at the base, he’d gathered himself, apparently uninjured apart from lots of bumps and a staved thumb and tried to walk over the top, but failed to locate the descent in the failing light and eventually staggered off down the path.
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Masa Sakano starting up Ardanfreaky E3, Binnien Shuas
Like a pair of drunk old men, we struggled, moaning onto our bikes and cycled off down the track. I discovered that it is surprisingly difficult to get going on a bike with one leg broken. Back at the car, we agreed that it was at least good that we were still alive and headed off home. Masa later got an all clear from hospital in Inverness and after a few days in bed and a few weeks off climbing, he seemed fine. I went for a leg x-ray in the Belford hospital. I was also given an all clear, although I could not weight my foot at all. A nurse looked at my X-ray and said it looked normal. I also looked at it across the corridor and asked what the big line was that stretched down my tibia. “Oh that’s nothing - you can just see the bone behind”. Taking my own advice, I wanted another opinion so paid £350 for an MRI scan, which despite the cost still took a week to arrange and another week to report (the radiologist was on hols - lucky her/him!). While standing up a ladder setting routes at Three Wise Monkeys in Fort William, an email popped up on my phone from my surgeon, who had thankfully glanced at my MRI before the report and let me know that the ‘nothing’ line on my tibia was in fact a fracture and to urgently go and get a cast. Oh and I’d basically reversed my ankle surgery from the previous year. Great.
Despite my experience with getting through injuries, I will admit to being rather knocked back by all this. In other words, fucking depressed. I did my best to try and do something positive, and enrolled to start a part time masters degree in human nutrition at Glasgow University. But when I went, I was struggling to find my normal motivation. After Uni I’d drive across to TCA to do some training. But a couple of evenings I just sat outside staring at the entrance and couldn't face going in. Being self-employed also meant I couldn’t drop out of life. A particular low point was a drone flying job I had booked on the Cairngorm plateau in October. Going up there on my crutches and still being a delicate painful mess just made me feel very weak and vulnerable.
The consequence of neglecting to continue training properly only compounded my problems. I lost a huge amount of physical form and confidence. At the end of October, I left my crutches in the car at the airport and left for a long booked trip to Margalef to sport climb. My second route there was 8a and it felt desperate! I don’t think an 8a had felt so hard for over fifteen years. To be fair, walking to the crag also felt desperate at the time. I managed to get up to 8b+ redpoint in two weeks, but even that was a real struggle and I relied on experience far more than fitness to manage it. On the harder routes, I just got totally shut down. End of story.
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Smiling after climbing Via Del Quim 8b+ at Margalef, two weeks off my crutches. It was great to be trying hard, but I still felt really awful.
It was a weird bittersweet experience. One one hand it was fantastic to still be able to just go out and climb rocks, but on the other I felt like a shadow of myself. But it does amaze me how these feelings eventually pass if you take good care of yourself (with basic things like sleep, nutrition, good friends, careful training etc). I have slowly regained some strength and fitness and feel quite good again now. Last month, I returned to the project I broke my leg on. After carefully cleaning the bottom section where the hold broke, and carrying a boulder pad up the hill, I sent it with ease. That was definitely a satisfying and hopeful moment.
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Sending the FA of Stronghold E8 6c a few weeks ago. A great feeling. Photo: Calum Muskett
I’d say the recovery is not quite over yet. But I just spotted an E9/10 project on Binnien Shuas. Something to drive forward the progress.
PS: Many people patiently helped me through my brokenness and recovery. Thank you, all of you.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/KjPwsrhNA6w)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Good post. It's reassuring to hear about Dave being human and not being able to sail through the psychological after-effects of injury on a tide of robotic determination.
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Sailing to St Kilda (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/iba-1aDgekY/sailing-to-st-kilda.html)
16 July 2017, 2:37 pm
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Setting up for the crux of Old Boy Racer E8 5b, 7a, 6b on Ruabhal, St Kilda. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
Several years ago I was lucky enough to climb on the spectacular islands of St Kilda, which sit 50 miles out in the Atlantic to the west of the Outer Hebrides. We had just one day and did a fantastic three pitch E6 on perfect black gabbro, similar to the Cuillin of Skye. Ever since, I have wanted to return and do something a bit harder. So when the veteran sailor and explorer Bob Shepton asked if I’d like to sail there with him, I obviously had to grab the opportunity, despite having no sailing experience and not really being a ‘water person’.
It was probably a good thing that I had a very busy few weeks of film shooting before we were due to leave Oban on June 10th. I had no time to consider how the journey across would be. So I had no expectations at all, except to have an adventure. Sailors Bob and Stuart, climbers myself and Natalie Berry and filmmaker Chris Prescott hopped aboard and off we went down the Sound of Mull. Although we had chosen June for the probability of fine weather, the standard Scottish summer fronts were ruling the skies and so we had three short days of dodging unfavourable waves, wind and rain in the small isles and Outer Hebrides. Eagerness to finally get there helped us decide to set sail west from Harris into a forecast of possible Force 7. There was an occasional Force 8 forecast a little further north, and of course once committed to the big waves west of Harris, we discovered that was a slight underestimation.
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Bob Shepton's boat, the Dodo's Delight on a very calm departure from the St Kilda islands.
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Some new ropes to learn. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
For my part, I was happy with being in the storm. Knowing nothing about sailing in storms or the capabilities of the boat, I could only go by Bob, whom I could still hear laughing and joking below deck as the boat was being thrown all over the place by waves which rather dwarfed our boat. I also garnered a slight note of caution from the odd bit of chat, that it could get really bad. Therefore, I expected it to be horrendous - like hanging onto the boat and being half drowned by waves. This probably helped as by the time I clocked the jaggy islands of St Kilda through the driving rain, I’d still been waiting for it to get really bad. Nonetheless, I was certainly ready to get off the cramped space of the boat and be able to spread out a bit and exercise limbs.
It wasn’t until the middle of the next day that it was calm enough to get us ashore and we set up camp as the clouds finally parted. Desperate to get going, we hot-footed it over Hirta to the cliffs of Ruabhal and found the rock to be dry, despite some huge waves battering the bottom 50 feet of the walls. Chris and Nat were still feeling a bit wobbly and spaced from the journey, so I rigged a line and went over the edge to check out the two lines I had in mind to climb.
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Bob noting down the shipping forecast. A regular ritual on the boat. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
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The forecast was none too good.
I had a fantastic evening dangling about on the wall, sussing out new lines and watching the impressive show of breaking waves blasting huge plumes of water skyward. The combination of natural sights and sounds really makes sea-cliff climbing on St Kilda a sensory feast. The first line I looked at seemed to have roughly 7c climbing with decent gear although you do move a bit away from it on the crux traverse. The next morning we waited out another wet start and tried to hold back as long as possible before walking over to the cliff. In late afternoon we were in place on a hanging belay just above the waves, with the cliff above us now nicely dried out in the sun and strong northwesterly. The first pitch was a beautiful easy pitch of E2 5b on great rough holds and sinker gear. I was actually happy Chris asked me to climb it twice for different angles and stills. I could get warmed up a bit after getting chilled on the belay.
The climbing on the crux was just so good and exposed that it seemed crazy to waste time worrying about whether I could do it or not. I just launched through it and before I knew it was stretching for a nice finger lock on the slab above the lip of the roofs. The remaining pitch was great fun, especially when a curious guillemot flew up to my face and attempted to perch on my head. I’m not sure who got more of a fright. On top it was 9.30pm and would have been nice to just go back to the tent and eat some dinner, but we had one more day of climbing and the forecast was good. I was eager to climb something harder, and I knew this meant going straight back down to spent crucial hours scoping out another line.
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Starting the difficulties on Making a Splash E7 5b, 6c, 5c. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
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Just past the crux on Making a Splash. The Gabbro is perfect stuff. Made to be climbed. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
Once over the edge again I was happy, and glad I’d decided to do it as it took me until after midnight to suss out the line of the second route I wanted to do. The plan was to breach a long roof in the middle of the cliff. I looked at it in two places, both of which were possible but far too hard for a single day of climbing. As I abseiled through a potential line, at first I wondered if it might only be another E7, but it quickly turned out to be far harder. A sequence of minuscule crimps and sidepulls round the roof worked out at Font 7c-ish. Actually pretty hard to pull off first try on a route in this situation, well for me at least.
However, the next day conditions were perfect. I knew I had an opportunity to take, so I had to calm myself down a bit and take my time to wait until the sun was going off the cliff in the afternoon. After arranging the gear I reversed back to the belay to ditch some of the rack ballast and generally sort myself out. Although I was a little worried about slamming into the wall below the roof should I fall, the conditions were just too good not to go for it with total commitment. As I set up for the crux slap, the holds felt unbelievably grippy and I knew I was going to do it. After another airy hanging belay the final E5 6b pitch was a total joy to lead. We shouldered our packs and headed off to village bay to sleep and look forward to the journey home.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KvTp6Cy44a0/WWtnjIVtMCI/AAAAAAAAEUg/Sy0bVcDHxQI4dS8cUUdyp3jGKzHQdws3QCLcBGAs/s640/June+2017+pics-6.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KvTp6Cy44a0/WWtnjIVtMCI/AAAAAAAAEUg/Sy0bVcDHxQI4dS8cUUdyp3jGKzHQdws3QCLcBGAs/s1600/June+2017+pics-6.jpg)
Natalie seconding pitch 1 of Old Boy Racer, on perfect sea washed gabbro (like sea-washed up to 100 feet on a south west facing cliff such as this. Those winter atlantic storms must be some sight!).
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p9YMZlgFEVQ/WWtnDO0hi_I/AAAAAAAAEUQ/LMhW5jfk1_4IVDpBQ9aQZ-I2XHGba8BzwCLcBGAs/s640/cp6d.DaveMacLeod_Ruabhal_StKilda%25280912%2529.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p9YMZlgFEVQ/WWtnDO0hi_I/AAAAAAAAEUQ/LMhW5jfk1_4IVDpBQ9aQZ-I2XHGba8BzwCLcBGAs/s1600/cp6d.DaveMacLeod_Ruabhal_StKilda%25280912%2529.jpg)
The exit corners of Old Boy Racer E8 5b, 7a, 6b. Not too sure I'll find sea cliffs climbs much better than this. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
My strongest memory from the trip was walking back to Village bay after working on the E8 by myself. It was after midnight, but only half dark since it was just around summer solstice. Once over the crest of the hill and out of the wind, the silence of the late night was intense and very relaxing. As I walked I could pick out the calls of the handful of different birds still out and about, the seals on the shores of Dun. But mostly, there was just pure quiet. It was lovely.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tIQxWIKkww/WWtnoyXpqnI/AAAAAAAAEUk/D7YMlnHBIHgJaRDo9X9OBMSA57QKx2t-ACLcBGAs/s640/cpA7.NatalieBerry_MistressStone_StKilda%25280463%2529.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tIQxWIKkww/WWtnoyXpqnI/AAAAAAAAEUk/D7YMlnHBIHgJaRDo9X9OBMSA57QKx2t-ACLcBGAs/s1600/cpA7.NatalieBerry_MistressStone_StKilda%25280463%2529.jpg)
Natalie on the 'Mistress Stone' at the top of Ruabhal. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h20DvfnDVLY/WWtnSHrhFKI/AAAAAAAAEUY/F3nJyIDh_2owp9GQZlrJd-UF-xA0wHCMwCLcBGAs/s640/June+2017+pics-4.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-h20DvfnDVLY/WWtnSHrhFKI/AAAAAAAAEUY/F3nJyIDh_2owp9GQZlrJd-UF-xA0wHCMwCLcBGAs/s1600/June+2017+pics-4.jpg)
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/iba-1aDgekY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Really wild, right there out on the outer frontiers, I'd love to visit
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Summer of Shuas (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/-Rr_c1S3Of8/summer-of-shuas.html)
16 August 2017, 10:00 am
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FekRGp28Dx0/WZQHFzTamiI/AAAAAAAAEVU/Xt06HtwVjdY-eUzaCL770pORjEDS1HjjACLcBGAs/s640/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+14+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FekRGp28Dx0/WZQHFzTamiI/AAAAAAAAEVU/Xt06HtwVjdY-eUzaCL770pORjEDS1HjjACLcBGAs/s1600/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+14+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg)
The first crux of Dun Briste E8 6c during the first ascent. Thanks to Cubby Images (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/) for these pics. Cubby, when are you doing your book?!!
This summer I’ve tried to make up for last summer’s wet weather and broken legs and have picked up where I left off, trying to do some of the superb new routes just waiting to be climbed on Binnien Shuas. In this effort, I’ve been following the lead of the amazing Iain Small, who has made a great effort in developing the crag over the past year. Let me take a moment to underline just what he’s done here. Although I can barely keep count, Iain has added one E8 and five E7s to Binnien Shuas in the past year. And, having repeated a few of them, I can say that they are brilliant routes. Not only that, but Iain has done a very thorough job of cleaning them, turning three star routes into four.
Having broken my leg trying to make the FA of Stronghold, E8 6c last autumn, I was playing catch up with Iain this year. I kicked off by repeating Siege Engine E7 6c which takes a soaring diagonal ramp on the left side of the crag. It’s ridiculously steep and a long winding pitch but well protected and about 7c in difficulty. This for me was a pre-requisite before trying the obvious project cutting through the roof above the ramp.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GxXPXa99Bh0/WZQHHCAPhlI/AAAAAAAAEVg/SrxpzFOdqDghI1b1fI3nuap2uKQjAN91QCLcBGAs/s640/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+30+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GxXPXa99Bh0/WZQHHCAPhlI/AAAAAAAAEVg/SrxpzFOdqDghI1b1fI3nuap2uKQjAN91QCLcBGAs/s1600/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+30+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg)
Nearing the top of my own route Stronghold E8 6c, which was very satisfying after breaking my leg on an earlier attempt past September. Pic by Cubby Images (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/)
My first abseil down the project was an exhilarating and nervous experience. The headwall above the roof has this amazing flake in it. It’s hard to describe, but sort of like a ‘slice’ out of the granite resembling the cut you would make in the top of a mound of bread dough about to go in the oven (not that I bake any bread these days ; )). It’s such an amazing feature, I was really nervous that the stretch across the roof to the flake from the undercut flakes below would be too far and the line would be impossible. As it happens, it’s perfect - 8a+ with good gear and excellent, athletic climbing. You start by doing most of Siege Engine to the perfect cam slots in the roof. What follows is a huge powerful reach to the lip from here, some toe-hook trickery and another piece of gear before the culmination - a powerful slap to a perfectly placed side pull right below the top.
I’d just had a week off climbing for my birthday fast (blog on this will follow) so on my first day up there with Iain I opted to top-rope it in its entirety to see if I could actually get through that top crux. This is something I don’t often do these days on headpointed trad routes. I usually tend to mess about on the moves on a shunt and then just go for it as I’ve got a lot of experience at knowing when I’m likely to succeed or fail. I was glad I did on this occasion though. Although I did manage to link it, I really needed the extra training burns before adding the effort of placing the gear on lead. I also seconded Iain on yet another great new E7 just left of my route Stronghold.
A couple of days later I was back with Iain and Cubby and after a bit of faffing decided to get on it. I felt really good all the way but was still full of apprehension for whether I could power through the crux with a bit of a pump on. I could feel that pump starting to kick in just a wee bit on the first crux, so got pretty fired up and let out a battle cry on the final slap to the side pull. It was an exhilarating surprise to stick it and a few moments later find myself standing on the ledge above with another classic new route in the bag.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtRRfxCMuiI/WZQHFz-8sMI/AAAAAAAAEVQ/YjNLMsuu9r8GHBNTqk6w1taCrSG--djVwCLcBGAs/s640/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+23+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtRRfxCMuiI/WZQHFz-8sMI/AAAAAAAAEVQ/YjNLMsuu9r8GHBNTqk6w1taCrSG--djVwCLcBGAs/s1600/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+23+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg)
Setting up for the final crux on Dun Briste E8 6c, during the first ascent. Pic by Cubby Images. (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/)
Between Iain and myself, we eyed up a possible direct entry to the line from below. The following day I returned by myself and spent a long afternoon cleaning it. I think this could go but it’s at least another grade harder and will need a bit of work yet. With the sun staying out I was back again the following day with Murdo and Cubby. After the hardcore cleaning session the day before, I was pretty exhausted and at first wasn’t sure if I could climb anything. But after checking out Iain’s Braes of Balquither E7/8 6c on the right side of the crag, it was too good not to lead and both myself and Murdo dispatched our repeats with great enjoyment. To really finish myself off, I started up Isinglass E7 6c on the proviso that if I could manage the wobbly initial slab, I’d just try my best to keep going. I’m sure you’ll understand that after decking out and breaking my leg on the next route to the left, I’m a little nervous of Binnien Shuas starts now. I was a bit tense, but the start went fine and I pressed on. It was kind of cold and windy and I was really too tired to be on a big E7, so I didn’t hesitate and blasted on. Isinglass is another climb with the crux right at the top and I’ll admit I had to do a pretty committing slap on the key move onto the top slab.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GlVl8pUMtKI/WZQHH-eugaI/AAAAAAAAEVk/Lkm2F8EQK0wZaWbVSns2Z7gL6O2bHJ12ACLcBGAs/s640/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+35+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GlVl8pUMtKI/WZQHH-eugaI/AAAAAAAAEVk/Lkm2F8EQK0wZaWbVSns2Z7gL6O2bHJ12ACLcBGAs/s1600/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+35+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg)
Nearing the end of an intense and bold crux section on Iain Small's Braes of Balquither E7/8 6c, Binnien Shuas. Pic by Cubby Images (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGXMhNsEDhg/WZQHGxFMt7I/AAAAAAAAEVc/1-N9gP-jeaIxcgLiAGA0jPkkoaewmwulgCLcBGAs/s640/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+27+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GGXMhNsEDhg/WZQHGxFMt7I/AAAAAAAAEVc/1-N9gP-jeaIxcgLiAGA0jPkkoaewmwulgCLcBGAs/s1600/Dave+Macleod+-+Bineinn+Shuas+selection.+27+%25281+of+1%2529.jpg)
Enjoying Iain Small's excellent route Isinglass E7 6c, Binnien Shuas. Pic by Cubby Images (https://www.facebook.com/Cubby-Images-181356675383219/)
This really is an excellent crag for accessible mountain trad that dries quickly and is often in condition even in fairly mixed weather. The two E8s I’ve added myself are both brilliant, but I really do want to see an E9 on this crag. So I’ll be back as soon as I have the opportunity to get on the direct entry to Dun Briste. Although the E7s and E8s in this post will not be targets for most readers of this blog, it’s worth pointing out that the classics at the other end of the grade scale are highly recommended too. Ardverikie Wall probably gets twenty ascents for every one of any of the other routes. But there are plenty of other great ones too. The place is really other keeping in mind as a Lochaber mountain crag to visit. It’s in condition earlier and later in the season than many of the other mountain crags in the area and you can easily get in there and climb many pitches even with a half day and often when the higher mountains are catching the showers. See you up there.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjrxQGEfExY/WZQHIIJ-zmI/AAAAAAAAEVo/ixIoggrtX7c7OUhnaDT46-34phWfe7jrQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_0143.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LjrxQGEfExY/WZQHIIJ-zmI/AAAAAAAAEVo/ixIoggrtX7c7OUhnaDT46-34phWfe7jrQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0143.jpg)
Training with Freida after getting back from holiday last week. She insists on doing her rings workout to Katy Perry. I now know all the words to 'Roar'.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/-Rr_c1S3Of8)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Separated Shoulder (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Vpoi2gxOrrw/separated-shoulder.html)
30 August 2017, 3:11 pm
5 weeks ago, I had an accident playing with my daughter and separated my shoulder. I did it properly as well; a grade 3 separation tearing all three ligaments which join my right collar bone to my scapula. It was a classic shoulder separation scenario - diving into a roll but instead landing on the point of my shoulder. Seeing my reflection in the car window was all I needed to know what had happened (it was obvious!), but nonetheless I headed off to get an x-ray and exam to confirm. My clavicle was elevated with a marked deformity across the top of my shoulder.
I’ve always counted myself lucky not to have had any traumatic shoulder injuries. There is a first time for everything. On the first two days it was so painful it took me 30 minutes to get sat up in bed. Taping it had me yelping like a kid! Obviously at this point I was not too happy about the situation.
But even by the third day I was able to make some tiny movements. By the beginning of the second week, the immobilisation of my arm in the sling had devastated my arm and shoulder muscles, which looked (to my eye at least) tiny. It is always shocking how fast immobilised limbs waste away, especially when it is your own limb.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6MQ9Ja78XaY/Waa8co-jXCI/AAAAAAAAEWA/JaNxH1npDDcCEuXRCCMljrduJx2UeV9JQCLcBGAs/s640/FullSizeRender.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6MQ9Ja78XaY/Waa8co-jXCI/AAAAAAAAEWA/JaNxH1npDDcCEuXRCCMljrduJx2UeV9JQCLcBGAs/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg)
Step deformity at the AC joint (the end of my collar bone)
With my daily exercises, I did everything I could to progress the return of range of motion, strength and muscle mass. At first, I could only really do 1-2 hours per day, but by the third week that was more like three in total. Early on I was just doing a ton of grip and pinch exercises, biceps curls with my arm supported, internal/external rotations with tubing or my other hand for resistance, isometrics at different angles and many more.
It got noticeably better every day, although there were of course still some mornings when I felt rotten, and some evenings when I sloped off to bed exhausted and sore at 7pm. Speaking of bed, the exercises were as always only half the picture. These days I am rather more careful to enforce a minimum amount of sleep, go after a far higher maximum and I’m much more careful with my diet now I have better knowledge on what I’m optimising for. While its not possible to know just how much all of these things make a difference, here is the output so far.
At five weeks I have fairly decent range of motion, but still a bit to go to achieve the last few degrees of pre-injury flexion and especially crossing my arm across my chest. I can manage about 12 pull-ups pain free and can now tolerate short climbing sessions on a 45 degree board doing moves which are fairly easy for me.
I can’t yet tolerate long training sessions, any really hard moves at 45 degrees, forceful ‘gaston’ press moves, very dynamic jumps on steep ground, or other heavy loading of the AC joint with my arm overhead. To me that feels like excellent progress, and I’m still seeing daily improvement. I’m sure I’m not the first climber with this injury so I’ll report back as a few more weeks pass and see what I can manage or cant manage.
Although it’s obviously a massive pain in the ass to have an unexpected traumatic injury I could have done without. But once it has happened, it’s happened. You have to deal with it head on. Its a good opportunity for me on three fronts. First, it allows me to test out the principles I detailed in Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html) and continue to build on them. Second, it’s allowed me to work on some other projects that needed done. Thankfully the weather has also been rotten for the past month anyway, so there is no FOMO for the mountain crags going on. Finally, as always it allows me to go back to square one and assess my weaknesses to work on in training, and put some proper time into addressing these without the constant drive to just go out climbing all the time.
So let’s see what the next month brings. It would be doing well to be worse than the previous one.
Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Vpoi2gxOrrw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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FWMF Minifest trailer (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/wi9qR12nCfY/fwmf-minifest-trailer.html)
22 September 2017, 11:06 am
FWMF Minifest 2017 (https://vimeo.com/234712915) from Fort William Mountain Festival (https://vimeo.com/fwmf) on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/).
Here is a trailer I put together for the Fort William Mountain Festival Minifest which is running on Saturday 7th of October in the Nevis Centre. Some of my own aerial footage from around Lochaber in the trailer, and the list of great looking film showing.
You can get tickets for the night at mountainfestival.co.uk (http://www.mountainfestival.co.uk/)Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/wi9qR12nCfY)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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AC joint recovery, progress and protocol (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Lh-81e-f6Gw/ac-joint-recovery-progress-and-protocol.html)
22 September 2017, 2:07 pm
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Up1ohk-0Q1A/WcUK3AxwS6I/AAAAAAAAEWU/CJssUgbChsIv76JoOcwtAtjHUFa8kjJoQCLcBGAs/s640/sling.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Up1ohk-0Q1A/WcUK3AxwS6I/AAAAAAAAEWU/CJssUgbChsIv76JoOcwtAtjHUFa8kjJoQCLcBGAs/s1600/sling.jpg)
It’s coming up for 8 weeks since I separated my shoulder. I’m delighted with my progress and although I’ve obviously got a long way to go yet, I’m a lot further along at this point that I expected.
Even two weeks ago, although I was doing some gentle endurance type climbing on my wall and an ever increasing load of rehab exercise, I was still unable to load my shoulder dynamically without some pain. How it would respond to ‘proper’ climbing i.e. 100% effort, with dynamic loading still felt like a big unknown.
Now, I feel rather more confident that I will be able to recover really well from this injury. I can campus without any problem, complete a half one-arm pull-up and have managed to get up some of the ‘medium-hard’ problems on my board. Fewer and fewer moves are causing pain and strength is improving daily. It will still take quite some time to recover 100% of the strength lost. But my day-to-day work is feeling less and less like rehab and more like real training.
I also just had my first day back out at the crag which was a huge boost. Through experience I’m well equipped to cope with the enforced break from my normal routine of outdoor climbing that is so important to me. But ‘coping’ is the key word. It takes active effort to get through the stress of deprivation from being outside in nature and doing that you love. So when you can stand outside in the quiet of the north west, smell the autumn air and dangle about on a cliff preparing a new route until the sun sets, it feels like a huge weight is lifted.
Just this experience is like the sun coming out in my head. Both body and mind are telling me it is time to GO.
i.e. Go climbing.
A lot of people have messaged me asking to know exactly what I’m doing for my rehab since the results have been good so far. Obviously my program is personally tailored to me, but here is a quick list of the bulk of what you need to know. You’ll see that none of it is rocket science, but also very easy to get wrong in our modern way of life.
There are three central foundations on which the rehab protocol are built. Sleep, nutrition and stress management. The detail of much of this is described in my book Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html). But aside from the myriad of sleep hygiene tactics, the main issue for me is just to enforce a hard bedtime to ensure I get at least 8 hours of quality sleep (not just time in bed) with no exceptions. Nutrition wise, I eat what most would describe as a Paleo type diet, although I certainly don’t set out to follow the Paleotm rules. Basically I just eat unprocessed foods - lots of red meat from properly raised animals, lots of leafy green vegetables, lots of eggs and high fat dairy depending on my energy needs. I’m glossing over a ton of detail here but broadly I eat this way for three main reasons. It helps me maintain my weight without having to constantly watch my calorie intake. It is generally anti-inflammatory and this makes a huge difference to recovery from injury or training in general. Finally, it makes it a lot easier to make sure I get all the nutrients in abundance. For geeks, Marty Kendall’s site (https://optimisingnutrition.com/) is a fantastic tool to explore various options for getting your nutrition right. Cronometer (https://cronometer.com/) is also a great tool for monitoring. I also try to actively limit stress. Getting injured and then trying to recover is already stressful enough and I can see the physiological effects of this quite readily. Lowering the allostatic stress load (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allostatic_load) is important to give your body a chance to heal. In practice this means getting the above factors right, making some space for relaxation and managing my work as well as possible. The biggest challenge in my case is that time spent outside at the crag is possibly the biggest stress reducing behaviour in my life, and being injured tends to remove it! Although I did make an effort to have days outside as soon as I could, I definitely could have done more to get outside earlier in the rehab process.
On top of this foundation comes the exercise protocol. I’m not going to go into the detail here because the principles are in Make or Break (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/makeorbreak.html). On top of the basic shoulder rehab exercise program, I went for testing with my physio every three weeks to identify weak areas and extra work needing to be done as I progressed. But once I could tolerate movement of my arm I started climbing immediately, but very gently, just moving round a vertical wall covered in jugs. So easy I didn’t really need to pull with the arm at all, and only for a few minutes a day. Each session I could do more, progressing to quicker (or more accurately less-slow) movement and then to a slightly overhanging wall and eventually to moving slowly on a 45 degree wall. I tended to find with almost every new stage of the progression that the first session introducing a new level gave some soreness, but subsequent sessions were fine and I could consolidate that level over the following days.
Off the wall I maintained a daily routine of a standard shoulder rehab protocol - rotator cuff, back and arm exercises with bodyweight, dumbbells, bungee cord and rings. For an AC joint rehab, chest presses, press ups and dips were the very last thing I was able to add - not until 7 weeks and even then very gentle. However, pull-ups were tolerated far earlier. I had a good setup with my rings and feet supported on piled up boulder mats to take weight off. In the first 3 weeks I did assisted one-arm pull ups on the good arm, then two arm static hangs on bent arms, then assisted two-arm pull ups, then unassisted building up from sets of 5 to sets of 20, then one arm locks on the injured arm, and at this stage I can do 50% of a one-arm pull-up. Standard progression. Clearly, someone who was unable to do one-arm pull-ups before the injury would have a progression at a lower level, for instance with a more drawn out progression of assisted pull-ups and then progressing through low numbers of unassisted.
Over all I would say that I have done 2-3.5 hours of work per day, just about every day. Not all of this was hard exercise on the shoulder of course - that is a total of everything, from grip-strength work to hip stretching. There was no hard and fast rule to progress other than monitoring how the shoulder felt during the session and how well it recovered the next day. The only time I felt I’d overdone it was actually in week 7, adding too many dips and press-ups too quickly. I needed to take two full rest days before continuing, and after that left those particular exercises for another week. I was careful to complete all the rotator cuff, scapular and back exercises in my program before doing the climbing related ‘fun’ stuff. It’s all too easy to just climb and ignore the real work.
Now at 8 weeks I am starting to climb and focus on real climbing goals and days out at the crag rather than just rehab goals. So I need to continue to be careful to schedule in the rehab exercises on days at home, so that they don’t slip off the radar and slow my continued progression.
I must say, 6 weeks ago I could not even imagine the position I am in now. I felt so awful and disabled at that point. If the next 6 weeks brings anything like the same consistency of progress that will be fantastic.Dave MacLeod
My book - 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop.html)(http://feeds.feedburner.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~4/Lh-81e-f6Gw)
Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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Testify (http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/DaveMacleod/~3/Ss23ggr26xQ/testify.html)
4 October 2017, 11:33 pm
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-USUrDXILdOw/WdVgEGnzDAI/AAAAAAAAEWo/OEiFSlyc0bciseBliXIOcVwFI9nZ02r6ACLcBGAs/s640/cpA7.DaveMacLeod_LochMaree8b%25281354%2529.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-USUrDXILdOw/WdVgEGnzDAI/AAAAAAAAEWo/OEiFSlyc0bciseBliXIOcVwFI9nZ02r6ACLcBGAs/s1600/cpA7.DaveMacLeod_LochMaree8b%25281354%2529.jpg)
On the headwall of Testify 8b, Loch Maree Supercrag last weekend. Yesterday, on the first ascent, these lovely rough Gneiss crimps were a wee bit wet in the pouring rain, but they are incut enough I could get past them. Photo: Chris Prescott/Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
In May I got a chance to visit the brilliant new sport crag at Loch Maree - beautiful setting, excellent crag, mostly waterproof routes. Thanks to the NW usual suspects for putting a huge amount of effort into developing it (or anyone who opens new sport crags anywhere!). On my spring visits I ticked the 8as already established and completed an 8a+ extension which was 50m long (The Circus). I couldn’t help eyeing up the unclimbed terrain to the right and figured there would be at least one great route to be done here.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pGnduTaBSV0/WdVgEHtUNLI/AAAAAAAAEWs/gLmw_2PP5Zklfx-AHc9FigAxW80RdN-rACLcBGAs/s640/cpA7.DaveMacLeod_LochMaree8b%25281124%2529.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pGnduTaBSV0/WdVgEHtUNLI/AAAAAAAAEWs/gLmw_2PP5Zklfx-AHc9FigAxW80RdN-rACLcBGAs/s1600/cpA7.DaveMacLeod_LochMaree8b%25281124%2529.jpg)
Approaching 1/3 height on Testify 8b. It's massive! Photo: Dark Sky Media (https://www.facebook.com/darkskymediaUK/)
As soon as my recovering shoulder was up to it, I packed my Hilti and my titanium glue-in bolts (http://titanclimbing.com/) (to last many decades in the maritime environment) and drove north west. I bolted a line right of The Circus that splits in two at 25 metres (halfway). The right hand version looked around 8b with an easier but exhilaratingly exposed upper half. The harder version has a brilliant but desperate boulder problem at 45m.
Last week I got stuck into the easier version. The tech crux is actually low down and is a fingery cross-through move - pretty much the only move that still hurts my recovering AC joint. I knew it would take a couple of sessions to get used to moving dynamically on this move, and it did. But yesterday I got through it and the sustained section above. But with numb hands I slipped off near the end of the crux section and split my ring fingertip which bled everywhere and seemed to indicate the end of my session.
It was the first cold day of the autumn and I’m not up to speed with my cold weather tactics yet. Next try, I spent a few minutes moving large rocks around at the base to improve the sloping gully ledge at the foot of the route, but more importantly to get muscles up to temperature for the next blast. It worked a treat and I felt way stronger and found myself on the brilliant easier middle section of the route. I checked my finger, which was only bleeding a little and so was fine to go for the top. The previous week of heavy rain had some serious waterfall action fringing off the top of the crag and unfortunately was catching four of the crimps near the last bolt. But this section is not that hard so I was pretty determined to make it through. It was just too good not to! Of course I didn’t let go and was delighted to clip the anchor on my first new route since the shoulder injury.
I would say that this closes a chapter on the shoulder injury story for me, but not the book. I am obviously beyond the sufferfest stage of climbing withdrawal, but I have a bit to go to feel my right arm is really strong again. For that I have the harder line to focus my efforts. Given the encroaching cold weather, this is most likely a spring project for me, but I’ll give it some goes and this can direct some winter training for it. I think the boulder at the end is in the V10 range, and on some really tiny edges. It’s going to be hard to pull on these after so much climbing below. Exactly the sort of project to fire up a winter’s training.Dave MacLeod
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Source: Dave MacLeod blog (http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/)
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New blog post up since the 25th of Jan http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2018/01/dont-let-go.html