UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on February 28, 2010, 07:04:26 pm
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Only just got in and dinner is ready so will post later....
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Goals: Cider Soak, Right Hand Man, 7Bs, strong for Europe
M: Deadhangs recruitment 1 hour
T: Rest (still no running as ankle still fucked)
W. 45 maximal on pockets. 2 hours. First proper board session emphasizing pockets. Could use the juggy monos a bit.
T. 45 resistance. 2 hours/Still not worked out a good routine for this. Was good at grammar.
F. Rest
S. Anstey's. CS piss wet so felt demotivated. Did my best to train at the crag but wished I had gone north.
S. 8 30 move low-end anaerobic circuits with 4 min rests. Technique drills. 2 hours.
Poor week. sort it out!
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Goal - font 7c
weight 14st 5lb
body fat 30%
M - still ache from Saturday
T - high intensity visualisation session: Natalija Gros doing a photo shoot for PerfectFlex.com
W - wrist hurting from yesterday, some stiffness remaining
Th - as Wednesday. Lots of walking in rain.
F - takeaway curry from Mogul Room
Sa - bouldering at Curbar - did Early Doors (felt E3 topping out in rain) and worked Great White
Su - party with top buffet and cake
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Monday: Core bar session, did lots of levers and pull ups in various leg positions. Felt hard first time for a while.
Tuesday: Went to grit with Rich. Managed blockbuster at Caley and Stu's Roof at Almscliffe. An enjoyable day out on grit.
Wednesday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg)
Thursday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg) rested for a few hours and then went to wall late evening for an endurance session. Endurance at wall was a bit of a disaster as too many people on bouldering wall and I lacked a plan.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Cave, good conditions. Tried and failed on Trigger Cut but enjoyed it. Did Sam's Finish which had great moves. A good session and re-inspired me for the cave after taking a bit of a break from it.
Sunday: Fingerboard weighted hangs (4.5kg) in morning. Wall in evening for an endurance session. Better this time but got bored and realised I need some targets for this to motivate myself.
All in all a good week and have decided to start doing some endurance work to prepare myself for routes season when weather warms up a bit.
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8b,8B,(E8)
M - Damp Warton failing, Damp Trowbarrow not even trying. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
T - Sore skin. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
W - Sore skin. Family Waybaloo "yoga".
Th - Family Waybaloo "yoga". Late evening board session.
F - Family Waybaloo "yoga".
Sa - DIY and eating. No Waybaloo.
Su - Not much, a small lego helicopter.
Another disappointing week on the crush/training/lego front, but my five minutes of yoga for two year olds each evening will surely yield impressive flexibility. I promise to pull my finger out next week.
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Dear Power Club,
I have been a crap shark this week. A fat, pathetic shark marooned on the beach of my own complacency. The facts and figures speak for themselves...
Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.4-7 :o (last week11.2-4)
M. PM Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. Started poorly, ended well. Eve Accidental curry (with hindsight the rot started here).
T. Overslept and missed early Am Yoga. Lunch Fingery Endurance on systems board (woeful). Late eve. Desultory 1hr session on the Wave.
W.
T. Eve. 1hr on Wave
F. Eve. 2hr on Wave
S. All day at BYCS comp
S. Malham. Oak wet. Cold. Did Personal services 3rd redpoint. Played on Raindogs. Came home. Ate cake.
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Mon - Rest
Tues - Tried bouldering but the split tip from Sunday was worse that I first realised. Taped it up and did some chuffing, but my current lack of stamina showed.
Wed - nowt
Thurs - see Wed
Fri - see Wed and Thurs
Sat - you get the idea
Sun - Warrington. Routes mileage from 6c-7b. A goodish session, but it did take a while to get into the flow and get the psyche juices flowing.
Not the best training week ever, must try harder next week.
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Goals.
Climb F8a before Duncan Disorderly is 40.
Persuade nik at work to give me a week's guided tour of Isle Of Man climbing.
Try every curry house in Shawlands before the winter is out.
Last week:
Mon - n/a, get beaten at pool by a lesbian, AGAIN.
Tue - n/a, play QuakeLive.
Wed - n/a, play QuakeLive, eat curry.
Thu - 2-3 hours steady leading at Ibrox - discovered that pool and QuakeLive might improve my hand-eye coordination but they do fuck all for my strength. Felt weak and tired, finger sore too but didn't get much worse. Eat pizza.
Fri - meet up with a promising climbing partner and other people for drinks, nice social evening, play QuakeLive, eat noodles.
Sat - n/a, play QuakeLive, eat fish and chips.
Sun - skiing, good exercise, boots made my feet hurt a lot, legs did well, good day out.
I have been a proper choad this week. Too much gaming and junkfood, not enough action, and I could really feel my slothfulness at the wall (although I did get some useful training ideas there). Climbing-wise I'm still resting my finger and shoulder. The former was sore at the wall but has got better overall, the latter just hurts from sleeping on it, climbing is fine. So not much climbing but I wasted a lot of opportunities for a quick run or similar, and am not very happy with that. A fair amount of this is due to my state of mind which is.....difficult. Hmmm.
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Persuade nik at work to give me a week's guided tour of Isle Of Man climbing.
I'll give you a shout next time we're going over for a decent length of time.
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3 weeks till I go to HP40 (flights now booked) for a whole THREE days.
Mon: Nothing
Tues: Good session on my board; start on circuits, get sucked into bouldering, go back to more circuits, finish with static locking exercices.
Wed: wake up feeling worked but manage decent set of repeaters on fingerboard
Thurs: Still feel worked but manage reasonable session of circuits in the eve
Fri: Drink beer at works leaving do
Sat: does going round a gallery count?
Sun: was meant to swim but I didn't work out
Managed to do crunches etc every day this week. Want to fit in four sessions next week.
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Mon: Rest
Tues: 3 hour session at Depot.. trashed
Wed: rest
Thurs: 2 hour session at Depot - flowing really well, confidence good
Fri: rest
Sat: Damp afternoon at Curbar (first time visited). Spent c.1 hour working a wet/damp trackside - the slopers were shite - having to crimp/press on edges within the holds rather than using friction. Think it'll go quite quick when dry (famous last words..) Then bumped into Lagers who showed me great white (about the only thing dry by then) - had a play on that. :)
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..
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Sat: bumped into Lagers
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..
edit to my post earlier...
Sat: used my Energy Vampire abilities to sap strength from Tomtom
Sun: sold Tom's energy to EDF
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Sat: bumped into Lagers
Sun: rest - Surprisingly achey. Must have been working my arms more than I thought on the wet rock..
edit to my post earlier...
Sat: used my Energy Vampire abilities to sap strength from Tomtom
Sun: sold Tom's energy to EDF
;D wondered where all my life force had gone - when all I'd done was sit around and drink tea in the drizzle try trackside for a bit..
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Goal - Font 7A.
Weight: 13st 7lbs (+1.5lbs on last week)
M: Rest
T: CityBloc bouldering - power goatee is on form. Beer.
W: Felt better. Rested. More beer.
T: Struggling. Works bouldering. Power goatee lets me down. I was shit. Obviously drinking two school nights on the trot isn't conducive to good form. Have a stern word with myself and hit the beastmaker fingerboard.
F: Rest.
S: 10mile-ish run. 90mins-ish.
S: Boulder at the Foundry. Excellent session. 30ish problems. Repeat spotty problem first time. Make good progress on an elite problem.
Week started well. Dipped and then ended well. Need to up mileage and continue fingerboarding and not drink so much beer. Aim for 2 out of 3 :)
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M-rest
T-power endurance circuits at TCA, felt pretty good lapping the orange and extending my best link on the harder red
W-power on 45deg board, prioritised pockets pleased with moves into and off the juggy monos but struggled with accuracy on longer moves
T- mix of circuits and problems at TCA
F-rugby and beer
S- routes indoors, got spanked despite progress on circuits, clipping was awful but had to start somewhere!
S-rest
Weight 69kg average for the week but 69.7 this morning! Ate too much with my brother this weekend, chef's menu at casamia was good though!
Must try harder and eat less this week
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Weight: 62.5kg
Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.
M: 90 min fingerboard session. 30 mins or so warm up then 1 hr of max hangs
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. 2 more problems done (1 flashed!) and getting close to completing my goal now although all of the remaining problems are totally nails... and they must be getting close to doing a re-set!
W: Out for a beer but managed a 30 min session on the rock rings doing pull ups, lock offs, frenchies.
T: Rest
F: Routes at Kendal, great session - continuing with stamina work. Plenty of route mileage done, managed a 7a flash and warmed down on a long 6c (have been trying to raise my minimum level to this for a while now so quite pleasing).
S: 2 hour walk, caught up on diy around the house.
S: Bouldering at Farleton (was bone dry and great conditions) warmed up then spent ages working a 6C+ (The Final Frontier) only to get repeatedly shut done on a move off a mono just below the top - disappointing. Just before leaving and before skin completely died decided to give one go on a nearby 6C and to my surprised flashed it. Was my first 6C so session was a success overall although slightly dissapointed not to get the 6C+ if I'm honest!
Weather this weekend was dry on the whole (apart from a little bit of drizzle on Sun evening) and it dawned clear and bright this morning. Fingers crossed for more of the same this week and lots of dry rock for routes next weekend...
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Goal font 7C
M – 80 pullups and a 50 pressups
T
W - as Monday
Th – late evening fingerboard session, not the best but ok
F
S – early morning fingerboard session. Felt great, recorded a couple of PBs which was surprising (because we’re lighter in the morning?). Then took the kids to grandmas where we were fed fish and chips for lunch. Returned home to find Mrs had bought pizza for tea. And wine. And cake. I suspect there will be no PBs next week.
Su
Mixed week, I knew work would be busy and opportunities to climb or train limited, so to manage four short sessions and end up with a good one is heartening. Look forward to this week, tomorrow’s booked off and if weather and skin hold out I'll be on for thursday too.
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Mon: Rest
Tues: Burned off by Davo and my left arm is well injured
Wed: Rest/injured
Thu: Rest/injured
Fri: Rest/injured
Sat: Short fingerboard session, no reaction from arm!
Sun: Rest, watched football on t'internet whilst massaging left arm a lot.
Frustrating week waiting for my left arm to recover. Luckily I am working everyday till next Mon at least so will just keep trying some hanging every other day until it feels ready to pull on anything steeper. Hope its just a strain rather than a tear round the bicep area :-\
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Been almost a complete washout int terms of training this week. Who knew this masters lark might actually involve a bit of graft? :wall:
Mon - Thurs: Work, panic, work more, drink coffee, smoke cigarettes
Fri: Same but with fingerboard session to fool myself into thinking I'm doing something
Sat - Sun: Work, Coffee, Cigarettes
Short term goals: Smoke less, don't get too savagely burnt off at the irish bouldering meet in a couple of weeks, profit
Long term: Onsight E3 at the head
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2010 goal: Redpoint 8a+, boulder 7B, have a baby.
Body fat 14.5%, 66kgs.
Monday: Rest
Tusday: WWay climbing session - managed a slab v5 - woahhhh
Wed: Rest
Thur: WWay boulder sess - bit better - dizy heights of v6
Fri: Rest
Sat: Boulder session - did a v8 in two sections that ive been projecting for a while.
Sun: Pull ups and a swim
Fingers starting to feel dodgy and am having some skin issues. bit unusual as its always been my elbows in the past. Wondering if i can get back on a campus board.
Am enjoying all the bouldering and dreaming that i might be getting stronger. am hoping to get some serious training in during upcoming Paternity leave...
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Goal - Stop being such a punter and train / climb more than once a week.
Monday - Honestly can't remember. Certainly didn't train though. Cooked prawns in some sort of butter and tomato indian recipe. Very nice.
Tuesday - Errr....I'm going to have to start writing this down. No training.
Wednesday - Gym. Took it easy as otherwise I'd be fucked for three days. Gently getting back into it but still way off where I was weight wise.
Thursday - Ached a bit from the gym but not too bad. Made Dolly's baked camenbert thing with savoy cabbage and smoked mackerel - amazing. Drank wine.
Friday - Slightly hungover. Aced a big task at work, client very happy. Bailed at half two to The Works where I managed about 20 problems on the purple 6B - 7A+ circuit before it started getting busy for the comp. Drank Farmer's Blonde in The Sheaf and Heineken when I got in.
Saturday - Fingers very creaky from climbing Friday but nothing damaged. Did some work. Bought huge amounts of shopping from Sainsbury's and drank lager while watching Brighton stuff Exeter (on Soccer Saturday) and Arsenal beat Stoke (despite Ramsey horror injury).
Sunday - Considered the gym for about ten seconds. Didn't go. Family do (same one as Lagers) where I stuffed my face and got stuck into the lager and red wine as the Mrs was driving.
A good week all round but I've got to try to manage more than two sessions if I'm going to get anywhere. On the plus side I could feel a bit of crimp strength returning on Friday. It's going to take time and pain..........if only I didn't have to work 45 - 50 hours a week.
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Short term goal: Climb 7a every day on Font trip (End of March)
Mid term goals: Redpoint F8a > Get fit for Mallorca > Powerband (All by September)
Long term goals: Onsight F7c > Climb font 8a (All by September 2011)
Monday - Three hour session bouldering at The Matrix. Good session.
Tuesday - Rest (Did some pressups)
Wednesday - Fingerboard. Felt strong.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Washed holds at the Matrix, set a couple of problems and tested. Knackered. Couple o beers.
Saturday - Worked then drank cider.
Sunday - Malham. Felt strong but not for more than three moves. Got Personal Services ready to redpoint next time. Wine and cheese on the evening.
Need to fingerboard more in preparation for Font. Power endurance still a massive weakness but will address it after Font.
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Goals: mutter mutter mutter paranoia, mutter mutter mutter Suffolk, mutter mutter mutter Zoo York. New goal find dry rock in Font next week and try and climb a 7A (gotta be realistic)
M: weights and core after being on the receiving end of severe par on Sunday, motivation was high
T: local wall, got burnt off of course...
W: run, felt pretty good even in the freezing rain
T: hard day at work, then down to London for partying
F: blustery coastal stroll, partying in Brighton
S: Shopping in Brighton, lots more good food and booze
S: more good food in London and walking around markets
Hmmm, gastronomically ready for font, but not climbing ready!
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Short term goal: improve technique, develop more finesse, improve contact strength so it matches open handed/crushing strength.
Mid-term goal: V3/V4 by June this year
Long term goal: Get better overall, get out onto some real rock, and improve
Monday:
Nursing a slightly dodgy feeling from elbow last week attempting a roof problem that was probably a little beyond my ability, elbow tweaked due to a foot slipping and me totally messing up an attempted move, this slowed me down a little this week so I concentrated as much as possible on correct foot placement and good technique.
So did the following:
5 mile ride in to work, 2 mile ride from work to the wall, followed by:
4-5 V1 problems, and a few V0s including one semi-dynamic one which managed to upset my elbow a little, not a good idea then ::)
To give it a break I went upstairs to do some core work on the swiss ball and on the ground, warmed up with a set of sit-ups then went into several sets of glute and ab bridges on the swiss ball, continued for around 10 minutes doing small dips/push ups in each position, felt strong, felt good, really pleased.
I then went off into a 20-30 minute stretching routine afterwards, doing some flexibility stuff like long static holds etc.
Followed by a 3 mile ride home.
Tuesday
5 miles to work
5 miles back
on the bike, did a little bit of gripper work, intended to go to the gym but was so knackered after a long stint at work during the past week or so
Wednesday:
I think the gripper work aggrovated the elbow, going to steer clear until it sorts itself out, or may just drop it entirely and focus on fingerboard work as this seems to be giving me really good gains when I put the effort in, ended up doing around 15 miles on the bike today due to some work stuff, then I got to the wall:
Did a few V0 problems and my elbow was just about holding up, didn't want to push my luck though so decided to cut it short there and go do some fingerboard work, did some short 4 finger, 3 finger and a supported 2 finger holds, then did some longish ones off of the jugs and slopers to really hit the forearms, once my fingers were pretty much worked to failure, I went off to do some forearm curls to really hit the opposite forearm muscles, did several high rep sets of 20 per arm, think it ended up being 60 reps per arm, trying to mix it up so I do a good blend of strength and endurance stuff for the forearm/grip side of things at the moment.
Did the same core routine work again.
Thursday:
Usual bike mileage
Arms/elbows felt good, had too much to do after work to prepare for my girlfriends birthday on Friday, I knew the weekend was going to be a little bit of a wash-out in terms of training due to this so I just stopped worrying about it sorted my stuff etc
Friday:
partied with the missus, got drunk for the first time in about 3 months
Saturday:
Day off for a change, slept, got up late afternoon, caught her cold and cursed my damn man-flu!
Sorted out bits for her bike i'm building, got home then ate dinner then pretty much went straight back to bed, went out for some drinks with the missus, then....
Sunday:
Wallowed in my man-flu misery, then took the girlfriend out clothes shopping, gutted I didn't get down the wall today, but I don't think my blocked nose and temperature etc would have contributed much towards a decent session.
All in all, I feel it started off productive, but ended a bit shite (training wise), will do better.
Girlfriend is on holiday with a mate this week for a few days, so will use it as a chance to catch up assuming this cold shifts soon!
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I think you did more training on Wednesday than I've done this year so far. ;)
Be careful with your elbows. If you can avoid injury then I'm sure you'll improve quickly with your enthusiasm and commitment.
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Be careful with your elbows. If you can avoid injury then I'm sure you'll improve quickly with your enthusiasm and commitment.
:agree: take it easy - remember those tendons take much longer to develop than muscles..
Its taken me c.2 years to slowly build up to being able to train 3 times a week without trashing myself...
(but I may well be crap/lazy/slow etc..)
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Yeah i'm gonna leave bouldering this week until Sunday to give it a chance to recover properly, gonna get on the swimming and back on the weights this week which will give me a good idea of how it is recovering, its so annoying when one slip of the foot throws you out for a week or so though!
I'm going to take it gently now until the V1's get really easy, and only then start going back to trying the V2's, and I don't think i'm going to attempt a roof problem for a while yet.
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just put the ladder up to give the guns a warm up for tomorrows session in the pass. suprised myself by pulling my fat carcass up 2 rungs on each arm with body straight on, ie no twisting. Quite suprised myself tbh
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Weight - 14st 4lbs. aim - get down to 13 stone 10, do 1st V6, recover a2 pulley - 8 frickin wks now...
Mon - rest
Tues - rest
weds - BUK, easy climbing V4 and less
thurs - rest
Fri - finger board avoiding left ring pinkie
sat - rest n friends birthday
sun - no condition to do owt. A2 strangely worse today.V dull...
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STG: Font in 4 weeks, do 1 7b+
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph, onsight 7b
Mon: Tried double sessions. Morning fingerboard, assisted one-armers, then evening repeaters which I didn't complete. Boo.
Tues: ARC'ing session, wasted from Mon
Wed: Fingerboard workout of a type I haven't done for a while. Despite feeling tired easily recorded best numbers, v.pleased
Thurs: Fingerboard then wall for falling practice and easy session. Had fun.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Forecast crap, so drive to Bristol's TCA for very long steady session. Felt good but lacking timing and power.
Sun: Went out for a very nice meal, ate far too much, entered food coma
Good week for volume and felt that previous 6 weeks have done good things. Now need to focus on translating the good fingerboard numbers to actual climbing, will be difficult next week though.
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STG (3 months): climb El Cap.
MTG (15 months): E5
LTG: climb more, get injured less
M: Shoulder stability exs.
T: Shoulder stability exs., 10 feet-on pull-ups
W: sore shoulder, so rested
T: Shoulder stability exs.
F: Shoulder stability exs., 10 lock-offs
S: Felt completely crap
S: 10 minutes / 30m of F5 plodding, shoulder OK.
Cold and difficult week at work. Getting much better / stronger at non-specific stability exercises but this is not yet transfering to pull-up type movements.
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STG 7a+ again outside
LTG keep climbing
Mon bouldering Rockcity worked and ticked another problem plus repeating stuff.
Tues thought about training but as the wife had finally visited the wine shop she'd been threatening to visit helped drink some of her purchases.
Wed rough Rockcity did 2 circuits of 15 problems knackered .
Thu drank wine
Fri bouldering Leeds wall good session managed 6 problems v5 and above.
Sat core exs Beastmaker session max hangs,cycling 21/2 hours.
Sun work drank single malt to get over it.
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short term goals: improve shite technique. 1 armer on both arms
mid term goals: learn to trad climb properly!
M-Team training on route intervals
T-BEASTMAKER for 3 hours. hurt to type afterwards.
W-bit of stretching and core. mainly fuck all.
T-Training on boulder problems with minimal rest. killed me
F-Rest so stretching and loadsa core
S-BRYCS comp. in welsh final
S-Training with mark pretty again woop woop
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In reply to biscuit:
M - Early morning run. Travel and long work day.
T - Pressups and situps. Work and travel very long day.
W - Really early start. Physio pm. Works evening. Flashed 40 easy spotty problems and did 10 or so Purple ones.
T - Stretching pm
S - Early morning run. Planned to go to wall to do routes but couldn't find motivation.
S - Ditto
Tough week at work, slight cold, zero motivation to climb indoors at weekend, ate and drank a lot.
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I was also tempted to play away but in the end I just couldn't face up to the deceit :whistle:
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Ha ha :-[
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Goal : Enjoy my climbing
Sunday : Drove up and down Cheddar Gorge in the rain, not very inspiring. Bought 5L of scrumpy cider :thumbsup:
Monday : Bouldering at the Matrix. Bit busy, but fun none the less
Tuesday : Routes at the Foundry. Had fun.
Wednesday : Now't.
Thursday : Routes at the Edge. Had fun.
Friday : Pub!
Saturday : Drove to fucking Devon to visit in-laws. Not fun.
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You've missed off your daily pint count Slackers? Or was the Scrumpy enough for the week :)
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Sunday - Had good day out with Donnelly and BenF at Normans Wisdom and Pill Box. Felt quite ok considering minimal activity of late.
Monday- Crushed uni.
Tuesday - Crushed uni.
Wednesday - Did a workout from hell on my board. Did countless pulls on medium rung and did reverse bicep training too. Plenty of hangs, one arm assists etc.
Thursday - Felt soreish
Friday - Felt sorer
Saturday - Dj'd at 21st party and at after hours. Broke new PB for time in the mix at 11 hours. Super happy. Got to bed 11pm Sunday. This was silly.
Promised I'd sort myself out last week so two sessions is good considering insane workload. Must stop partying. This weekend will be a test.
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Thanks for the reminder to post Shark...
Goals
get out sport climbing (if anyone wants a Sheff based partner PM me please) and see what happens/enjoy myself.
boulder a few more 7c's and perhaps a 7c+ or 2, feel more confident on 7a-7b+ lime boulders.
try and get to font during the year regularly for weekends or do a looong trip.
Rest week (mostly)
Mon - watched secret episodes of new series of secret thing at work that we are not working on shhhh. cycled to work and back 4.5 miles either way. Worked a few hours over time . Ran 20 mins with Nat when I got home - silly.
Tue - Car being MOT'd cycle to work and back jogged from hillsborough to crookes kinda to pick car up.
Wed - nowt
Thurs - Fingerboard - one armers and assisted one armers - 3 finger open crimp 3-5 secs x 5 tried hanging the moon crimps but re split my index finger.
Fri - nowt
Sat - nowt
I include sunday in this weeks training.
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Thanks for the reminder to post Shark...
You're welcome. Has this gayness perked you up?
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No.
To be fair I am quite happy to just do a few pull ups and some hangs and forget all about climbing until the weather is less shit and work is less tiring.
When the clocks go back and the weather is drier and I can get outside of an evening you may see a slight tremor in my face that may be interpreted as a smile- but more likely its Parkinsons.
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Father forgive me for I have sinned. It's been 10 days since my last confession.
I have comitted sins of Avarice and Gluttony on a daily basis. (A few others too, but these have less effect on my health)
Aim, get some fitness back - down to 13.5 st, 13 st stretch
Do a decent 7a prob by middle of year
Get some surfing fitness back.
M - walk to work and back (1 hr total), hour of yoga.
T - got bus, no walking
W - walk to work and back (1 hr total) weight back up to 13st 13 up 1 1/4 lbs), hour of yoga
T - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
F - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
S - Nowt
S - Nowt
This week was going to be the week I got with the program, but it aint looking good.
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Goals
1) Appear on cover of Mens Health
2) Go for first run since 1994 (it doesn't sound difficult, but it's all in the execution)
3) Do an ironman
4) Climb a photogenic Fr8a, make mugs etc
Monday - Friday - No training of any sort as far as I can remember. Thought a lot about food and wine
Saturday - Cooked and ate huge quantities of rillettes and boeuf bourguignon, Drank 34 year old santenay. Mmmm
Sunday - Awful hangover. Russian river valley chardonnay mid morning, then I kind of lost track. Pot au feu fucking good. Collapsed around 9pm...
No luck with Mens Health yet, but might appear in FT's Power Dressing column. Watch this space...
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Broke new PB for time in the mix at 11 hours.
:bow:
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Those were the days. (http://images.gametrailers.com/images/userimages/1113386-1191207992-SmileyRave.gif)
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Seeing as I only ever go on UKC to post this shizzle anyway seems better to swap to a board aimed more at what I wanna do (ie boulder and sprot climb)...
Goals: F7c this season, some classic 7B's at home and in the forest, burn Fiend off some more! F8a before 1st Jan 2014..... Get over current injury!
M: Pullups - 5 sets of 10.
T: Bouldering @ The Works - New red circuit, going well until..... TWANG! Agonizing pain indicates something very very not good going on with me right knee, hop to car. Arse!
W: A&E with 1 non straightening knee - only soft tissue they say, no meniscus tear they say, no ACL PCL or Lateral Ligament issues they say... Should be thankful I suppose!
T: Physio examination - 1 torn hamstring tendon right behind my right knee! 4+ weeks out. Arse!
F: Get drunk.
S: Mope.
S: Campussing and fingerboarding @ The works - Weak, weak, weak, can only get better tho as only gonna be doing this for a month at least.
A truly shit week... Absolutely gutted! Off to Font at Easter.. Was planning a sport climbing trip.. yadda yadda yadda!
Funny really as I've been religious about warming up my arms and fingers but neglected the legs it seems... Could be a recurrance of an old injury tho.. I dunno!
Given me the impetus to train me fingers and locks so hopefully will come back stronger in the end..
This Week: Do some of the DIY I've been putting off. Campus and Fingerboard Tues, Thus and Sun.
:D (sorry for copying this from UKC - will try harder next week;-)
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It's a great opportunity to get strong as f*ck for font now Duncan!
I did a similar thing to my left knee on Beaver Cleaver a couple years ago and had one of my most productive indoor months ever fingerboarding/campussing and doing footless boulder problems on an overhang :thumbsup:
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I totally agree.... I had surgery on the other knee about a year and a half ago, I just swam and fingerboarded all through my recovery then had the best season I'd ever had...
Just a bit of a shit when it happens... Look like a bit of a twat heading down the works with me crutch too :-[
(this is the least of my worries btw... ;D)
Cheers,
:D
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I will eventually have time to remember what I did last week and fill this in. But for now headtorch session at Caley is calling.
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Goals: burn Fiend off some more!
Goals: F7c this season,
:-\ :whistle: :lol: ::) :spank:
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Following a chaser from de management but now testing my pathetic memory, here goes...
Goals: DKV2; soft Spanish ticks.
Weight: 8st 9lb - official.
M - "Rest".
T - Chapel: problem sets, endurance circuits and some opposites training.
W - Birthday occasion. Dinner and beer.
T - Chapel: circuits didn't inspire. Did some fun problems and tried DKV2.
- Birthday occasion. Dinner and beer.
F - "Rest"
S - Nowt
S - Chapel: 4x4s and retro-flashed Yellow Steepness.
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Weight: 8st 9lb - official.
That must make you about 5 stone on my scales, you should do DKV2 with 1 arm at that weight ;)
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Weight: 8st 9lb - official.
That must make you about 5 stone on my scales, you should do DKV2 with 1 arm at that weight ;)
8st 9lb undressed - The Chapel ain' that warm... yet.
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I expect puntering from all quarters and a telling off from the management but:
Power club makes pretty depressing reading! Its all - 'ate too much', 'didn't train', 'made some lego', 'sat on my ass' etc. whats the point in putting goals up if you're not going to make some effort to achieve them. Of course, we could all do more, but fucking hell! Folks can't want their goals very much if half the days of the week are spent boozing and slobbing.
Sort it out?
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It's all about reaching goals whilst having fun. However, you make a good point. By writing down/posting my lapses/failures I have realised how little I do towards my climbing goals and this has inspired me to try a bit harder. If the next 50 weeks were to stay the same then it would be depressing reading, but hopefully we will all see a change for the better.
Dead lifted 140kg this morning :thumbsup:
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Jolly good!
I suppose it seems to my inexperienced eyes that there's a fair bit of the 'its cool not to try hard' British nonsense in a lot of posts. The other thing is i'm convinced that slobbing/being lazy doesn't make people happy. But what do i know...
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It is cool to climb hard without being seen to try hard. It's even better if you feel that you haven't tried hard. However, there is still a great deal of satisfaction to be had from getting something as a result of hard work.
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'made some lego'
I'm not suggesting my training routine would suit everyone, but it works pretty well for me.
I actually have the opposite view to you in that I am amazed (and impressed) at how many people do fingerboard/pullup type stuff in an organised fashion and have a system to their training (ARCing and circuits and such like). I kind of assumed everybody would adopt an approach as disorganised as mine. If I were to offer an opinion it would be that perhaps some people are training more than climbing.
Of course some people are just drinking.
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I quite like the randomness and humour of some of the posts, makes for good reading. And lego rocks :great:
As for training too much, probably, but it feels really good at the crag just now.
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It's even better if you feel that you haven't tried hard.
I find stuff far more satisfying when I know I have tried damn hard, both on the route/problem at that moment and in training hard to reach that point o f strength/fitness ability. Knowing that the hard work you've put in has got you to a point you previously thought you'd never get to, that you're fitter stronger and better because of putting in the effort, clipping the chains and knowing that not only was it worth it but you'd do double the work if that's what it took. F*ck not trying hard.
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I expect puntering from all quarters and a telling off from the management but:
Power club makes pretty depressing reading! Its all - 'ate too much', 'didn't train', 'made some lego', 'sat on my ass' etc. whats the point in putting goals up if you're not going to make some effort to achieve them. Of course, we could all do more, but fucking hell! Folks can't want their goals very much if half the days of the week are spent boozing and slobbing.
Sort it out?
Meh. :thumbsdown:
People are just telling the truth and (like Lagers said) the idea is to inspire yourself to train more. What would be the point of doing this if we were all doing Simpson style 35 hours a week training already? Personally I will have done more this week than I have for about five months and a bit of that is down to thinking about writing it down.
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I find stuff far more satisfying when I know I have tried damn hard, both on the route/problem at that moment and in training hard to reach that point o f strength/fitness ability.
I know what you mean, but for me illness and injury occur so easily that this sort of satisfaction has been so infrequent over the last 10 years that I've lost all understanding of what it felt like.
Now, if I could get down to below 12 stone as a result of hard work and discipline and not as a result of the next major illness then I know I'd feel great as I crushed my first Font 7c (might be 8a if I got that light).
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Sort it out?
Your post is quite offensive, but I'll take it in a constructive manner. I've recently come out of the end of 7 months of unemployment where I was training and climbing six or seven days on. My new job meant moving from Leeds to Suffolk, which has meant it has been quite hard to be motivated to train, and I've been busy with a lot of other shit. It has also meant that my closest friends are those in London, which has lead to more drinking than climbing. This is life. My posts are accurate (if with some attempted humour) and I look forward to looking back on them when I have a more settled training plan.
I hope you can see therefore that they are not meant to make it look like I'm not trying or that it's cool not to train, that's just what I'm doing right now.
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Power club makes pretty depressing reading! Its all - 'ate too much', 'didn't train', 'made some lego', 'sat on my ass' etc.
You make a stunning job of generalising... Quite a lot of people on here seem to do a lot considering that for most its a leisure pursuit and we aren't all professional athletes.
What power club doesn't tell you is how much people are working around their daily grind. Personally, I leave for work just after 7:30 in the morning and don't get home until 7pm at night. Thats more than 11 hours a day gone for 5 days of the week plus I still have to put in semi-regular 2 hour work stints in the evening from home. Even so I still managed to do something climbing related on 5 nights of the week which I'm chuffed with.
Also, with so little spare time if I didn't fucking lighten up and have a drink sometimes my wife would probably divorce me!
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I expect puntering from all quarters and a telling off from the management but:
Power club makes pretty depressing reading! Its all - 'ate too much', 'didn't train', 'made some lego', 'sat on my ass' etc. whats the point in putting goals up if you're not going to make some effort to achieve them. Of course, we could all do more, but fucking hell! Folks can't want their goals very much if half the days of the week are spent boozing and slobbing.
Sort it out?
Are you trolling ? For bouldering I dont think you have to put in much more than 3 sessions per week to get pretty good results. A goal has to be related to lifestyle choices too. Sometimes the trade-off slips too much one way or the other. Its good to have choices. I think I have lost where I am going with this .... conclusion - live and let live/ keep it real and nice or I'll start PMing you again and bore you to death. You stated before you wanted more training 'beasts' posting but they have less to gain out of this habitual confession than the rest of us / the majority - with lives n'stuff.
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Dead lifted 140kg this morning :thumbsup:
Nice one. That was my PB too a couple of weeks ago too. I've stopped doing weights now to concentrate on getting some finger endurance for Malham redpointing unless you report 150kg next week that is.
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Lagers has this annoying habit of not doing any training for ages and still having ox like strength. It's a good job he's a fat cunt with fucked up fingers or he'd be dangerous.
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I quite like the randomness and humour of some of the posts, makes for good reading. And lego rocks :great:
^^^ this. Also Three Nine your avatar is a bit crap.
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unless you report 150kg next week that is.
Quite possible. PB is 170kg when I weighed a mere 85kg. Haven't touched weights for some time until this thread started.
My knees will be the limiting factor
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Personally, I leave for work just after 7:30 in the morning and don't get home until 7pm at night. Thats more than 11 hours a day gone for 5 days of the week plus I still have to put in semi-regular 2 hour work stints in the evening from home.
Home? Luxury! I'm builiding t' house out old carboard boxes and cellotape. I work 26 hours a day and have to pay t' manager to let me work.
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Shark - please dont as I will be far too busy training to reply. But no i'm not trolling - just saying what I think, even if it doesn't make me popular on an internet forum. I was just expecting people to be doing more. Presumably if you post on this thread you have made some committment to being better?
Fiend yes my avatar is shit i'll try and sort it out!
Stubbs - it wasn't supposed to be offensive, just blunt. Perhaps you're exceptional?
Would love to write more but the stopwatch is ticking.
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I'm pretty ignorant about this sort of weights in relation to climbing strength.
What's the theory behind dead lifting and strength gains versus reps with lighter weights ?
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Home? Luxury! I'm builiding t' house out old carboard boxes and cellotape. I work 26 hours a day and have to pay t' manager to let me work.
Man up and quit moaning why don't you!
Shouldn't you be spending your time building a training facility rather than a house. I sense a lack of commitment to improving your climbing...
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Is cellotape used mainly for fixing the second largest stringed instruments in a modern symphony orchestra?
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I'm pretty ignorant about this sort of weights in relation to climbing strength.
What's the theory behind dead lifting and strength gains versus reps with lighter weights ?
Deadlifting is great for developing back and core stregth (as long as you use good form and dont break yourself) - as its all transmission of power through the chain especially core to legs so translates to pulling up on undercuts.
Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.
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s its all transmission of power through the chain especially core to legs so translates to pulling up on undercuts.
This might sound like I'm taking the piss (I'm not) but isn't it better to do some undercut problems if that's something you want to get better at ? I would have thought doing that would be more climbing specific - greater range of dynamic movement/more specific/other muscle groups etc
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This might sound like I'm taking the piss (I'm not) but isn't it better to do some undercut problems if that's something you want to get better at ? I would have thought doing that would be more climbing specific - greater range of dynamic movement/more specific/other muscle groups etc
Heavy weights hammer you in a way that even specific systems exercises don't if you are very clear what the exercise trains and why you are targetting it. Even then weights are supplementary rather than instead of.
(Norton better not be putting you up to this)
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Is cellotape used mainly for fixing the second largest stringed instruments in a modern symphony orchestra?
After some desperate googling.
Cello Tape - Usually a band of electric tape is places in a certain position under the strings on the fingerboard. It's used to mark the location of a fingering for people who are inexperienced players.
And it's used Cellotape and all.
(pedant cunt)
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Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/eeujm.jpg)
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Presumably if you post on this thread you have made some committment to being better?
Errr, exactly.
Which might well include monitoring your training pattern, seeing flaws in it, and working on improving it.
QED.
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(Norton better not be putting you up to this)
No mate - I'm perfectly capable of taking the piss on my own :)
Talking of which, fancy training on the board next week ?
We've even got a new grading system in place which gives you the honour of having problems graded "Shark"
The system is
Shark (warm up/1 or maybe 2 attempts)
Hard (within a session)
Quite hard (2-3 sessions)
Reight hard (4 or more sessions)
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Lifting heavy weights is best because it makes you feel like an invincible force of nature.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/eeujm.jpg)
Good demo. 55kg of this type of weighted resistance when doing an upright half lever isolates and works the priapic muscle to failure.
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Not climbed indoors with any regularity since the hayloft closed 3 or 4 years ago.so since the new wall has opened in stoke and its on my way home from work.I have thrown myself in at the deep end.
Sat-wall,bouldering with andi
Sun-earning brownie points with g-f
Mon-wall,bouldering
Tue-wall,bouldering with Andi turnip
Wed,wall,bouldering(a pattern starting to form)
Thurs-went straight home and did nowt
Fri-wall with turner
I'm totally wrecked now,anyone know of any dealers in nandralone?
Goals are national acrobat at ramshaw,this might be on back burner now and would like tick parologism.
Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.
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Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.
Good to have you joining in.
Is it as black and white as that. Thors Cave and Beeston have 8a's and are close by and there's Arch Enemies too at 7c+ (IMO). The Matlock crags a bit further but a good range of 7's.
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Cheers.
There a few good routes down dove/manifold.could not seem get thru the top crack on arch enemies,but didn't mind just climbing up to that bit.done some of the good trad routes down there.me and andi shall have another summer tryin to rediscover the area.there also a new guide planned so that's a good excuse.
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.could not seem get thru the top crack on arch enemies,
Its hard to work out as the way it seems to lean out in every direction makes it hard orient yourself and work the moves out. A slopey left hand gaston and working your feet up the groove in the right sequence to get an undercut for your right worked for me. Not got the redpoint but keen to go back and finish the job in the summer.
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Would be nice to climb upper french 7's again,ultimately f8a.but that would mean getting a cheap to run car,and I'm not loosing the impreza to gain a f8a tick,not worth the swop.
Good to have you joining in.
Is it as black and white as that. Thors Cave and Beeston have 8a's and are close by and there's Arch Enemies too at 7c+ (IMO). The Matlock crags a bit further but a good range of 7's.
I'm led to believe that Long Tor has some good 8a's. Ruby Fruit sounds qwality.