UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on February 21, 2010, 05:47:56 pm
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Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.2-4
M. Busy day at work. Cancelled Malham trip as forecast was gash. Felt good about life driving home until I got rear ended. Glass of wine and toblerone. Felt sick. Was sick.
T. 11stone 2lbs Hallelujah!. Early Am Yoga. Another busy day. Lifted weights between phone calls. Did better on the Clean and Jerk and Power Cleans than last week.
W. PM Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. Intense.
T. Eve. Ace session. Repeated all problems done so far and bagged the two project problems (Green black spots on steep section) Quick go on campus board.
F. Felt beasted and fluey all day – bagged planned finger endurance session
S. Malham. With Alex, Bob and Chris. And it was dry – mostly. Warm ups then 3 goes on the Oak though undercut by 3rd bolt was wet. Attempted quick go at redpointing Personal Services as light was fading but got spat off.
S. Two Breakfasts. Edge – did 15 routes whilst boys did the bouldering comp. Feel wiped. Roast dinner imminently.
First time climbing routes outside in 3 months. :thumbsup:What a rubbish winter. Did OK on Oak – hard to tell. Going to do more endurance stuff for next few weeks.
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M - 30 mins lunchtime run
T - Physio am; 45 mins light fingerboard pm
W - 18 hour work day!
T - Pressups & core
F - Pressups
S - 8 Routes at AW Stockport to 6b+
S - Pressups & bouldering on friends board 2 hours
The physio session with John at The Clinic was great. He diagnosed nerve compression in the shoulder, back and Tricep insertion rather than Tennis Elbow (which I did have last year) and basically said 'fill your boots' as far as climbing and training was concerned and a couple more sessions to ease the compression. A big psychological boost after the last few months of injury and illness.
I've not done any routes since September last year and only bouldered less than 10 times so I was really pleased climbing on the lead at Stockport yesterday and had a really good session on my neighbours board today.
I'd like to do 100 pitches before heading to Siurana over Easter - grade not relevant as I just want to go climbing when I'm there having missed my holiday there in October because of flu. I also booked a weekend in Zurich to go see Metallica and Slayer followed by three days bouldering in Cresc/Magic Wood :-)
This weeks goals -
Run twice
Physio Wed
Routes indoors 10 pitches
1 bouldering session outdoors (weather permitting)
Drink and eat less (weight has been creeping up 'cos I've guzzling wine by the bucketload)
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Goals:
Break the world buttery eating record by such a spectacular margin no-one attempts to beat it ever again.
Find a way to use my new patented invisible email/text technique I've discovered (people's eyes just slide away from it as if by magic!) for either illicit profiteering or glamourous espionage.
Become even less tolerant of the imbiciles on the A80 roadworks (this may not actually be possible).
Tick all the schist bouldering that doesn't involve grotty, pointless and disproportionately hard sit-starts (this won't take long).
Persuade Scottish National Trust to build a chairlift up to Gharb Bheinn.
Progress:
Mon: 16 minute run (11.5 running, 1.5 walking, 4.5 running) - longest I've run continuously for months.
Tue: 1 hour steady walking.
Wed: 1 hour steady walking. Make promising contact via UKC.
Thu: 3 hours steady walking. Absolutely fine as all flat walking still is. Got sweaty. Listened to good drum&bass and metal.
Fri: n/a
Sat: 1 hour hard bouldering - climbed hardest problem I've done, also good slab practice. Finger taped and okay. Celebrate with 14 minute run (10.5r / 1.5w / 3.5r). May have followed through on run whilst farting.
Sun: 3-4 hours steady bouldering - good circuit, not as much flashing as I'd hoped. Finger taped, okay but a bit achey. Doused hands in frozen river afterwards, interesting, could feel pain in my arms from chilled blood returning. Had txted lots of people for cragging, few replies. Shower and stretching.
Comments:
A slightly odd week as I was resting my tweaky finger, so didn't get out despite good cold dry weather. I also had a lot of hospital / doctor appointments which I got decent exercise walking to, and explained why my fitness is wank, because the clots are still present.
I was also in a pretty bleak mood which made it hard to stick to beneficial exercise. However I got more SYKED at the weekend and ticked big numbers. Sunday was a bit disappointing as cragging plans fell through, but I still made good use out of it.
Finger is okay when taped, right shoulder a bit achey from sleeping on it funny, will keep working on that. Everything else plodding on okay.
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. Sat: 1 hour hard bouldering - climbed hardest problem I've done,
Nice one :beer2:
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Good effort Fiend..
Goals (this year) work a 7b+ & Flash 7a
Mon: Rest - started cycling into work - good plan.
Tue: Depot with Rob - 3 hour session (great pink circuit though we did it wrong way round! - got a yellow or two) beasted.
Wed: Rest - open day at work.. bit manic
Thu: Rest
Fri: Trip to Slipstones to try Sulky Little Boys. It was the only dry(ish) problem at the crag. Warmed up on it, tried it for close to two hours - left as my skin was beginning to fail. Need more grunt.. (and to warm up properly..)
Sat: Rest - had to go into work for 4 hours on a lovely day.. arse.
Sun: Beastmaker session. (Didnt fancy Stockport wall) Working front two and back two for first time.. joyful agony :)
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A funny week of many family commitments and all normal training partners away
M: Nowt
T: Weighted pull-ups, first in ages but goes pretty well, some press-ups for opposition
W: Lats kill from yesterday. Repeaters on fingerboard
T: Long work day, drink plentiful red wine at work do
F: Stacks of problems up to 'V6' (whatever that means) at Manchester Climbing Centre. Not an impressive set-up but nice to climb somewhere other than my board.
S: Does shopping count?
S: Take daughter swimming, manage to fit in a few flat out lengths
Not a great week.
Forgot to add my new training mantra last week, taken from a text from Pete C the other week "we're only middle aged once, lets get our fingers out"
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Goals: Cider Soak, 7Bs, strong for Europe
M: am continuity 1 hour pm deadhangs 1 hour
T: rest (wanted to run but bad ankle)
W: power 45 3 hours
T: resistance problems on 45
F: rest
S: did Fighting Torque at cuttings, pretty steady, pleasing milestone for me (token 8a)
S: drizzle at cuttings, did a 7b+ in the wet
Slack week as wanted to do fighting torque. Will get on it this week hopefully. Like to start running again if ankle gets better.
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8B, 8b(, E8)
M - At brother in-laws in Northampton, messed around on outdoors gym equipment in local park, had a curry - yum.
T - Drove home, started building extension to the 10 degree "ladies wall" on the board to aid wifey's pre-font training.
W - Finish extension to board, have a quick session, ooof! Go and see Sherlock Holmes and eat a whole packet of revels, get told off for not sharing.
Th - Board session, do some new problems. They might be hard and I strong or they easy and I weak, who knows :shrug:
F - Went out with G to look at his wet project, it was wet. Tried a different project, it too was wet.
S - Had a sociable day at Cratcliffe, got a handful of 7A-ish things done and talked a lot of shit.
Su - Tidied the house.
Not done enough climbing, training or Lego construction this week. Very disappointing.
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Half-term week and off work so tried to get out as much as possible despite the bad weather and changeable forecasts.
Monday: rest
Tuesday: Cave, tried Broken Heart and did my normal trick of falling off last move!
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Wanted to go to Trowbarrow but weather sent me scuttling back to the cave and success on Broken Heart
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Ilkley and success on Ringpeace. Went to Almscliffe in evening and got shutdown on Matt's Roof and fell off top of Stu's roof in dark.
Sunday: Plans of climbing sacked due to snow. Scuttled back to Liverpool.
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goals for the year - font 7b specifically onde du choc, new aim to do 7c route
m - rest
t - good session at tca, planned to work circuits but after warming up got stuck into the new whites; lots of progress but none completed
w - power session on mark's board
t - more work on the whites at tca but no real progress as so knackered
f - rest
s - 3 hours at tca working whites inc steve mac's new problems and circuit. 1 move off flashing the 7a endurance circuit
su - 4 hours at tca. got all the moves on 2 new whites and then dropped the last move on the orange endurance circuit again!
rest tomorrow, pure circuits session on tues then board session again on wed
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M weights, 1 hr
T Wall, short power session plus laps of 18 move circuit
W Absolutely nails ashtanga yoga class
T Wall, routes 15 pitches or so.
F run 40 mins ish.
S Malham, remembered vaugely how to stand on proper footholds, then it got dark. fantastic conditions.
S power endurance / circuit laps session at wall.
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Just hit the come-back trail again so time to set some goals. Current status: recovering from shoulder injury, have not climbed for 6 months, can do 1 pull-up, could probably scratch up an HVS or soft E1.
Short-term goals (June 2010): 10 pull-ups, onsight E3, climb El Capitan.
Medium-term goals (June 2011): onsight E5.
Long-term goal: reduce the frequency of shoulder (and associated elbow) problem recurrence and increase proportion of time fit-to-climb. Currently 50% counts as a good year.
M: Visited physio. Happy with progress. Video analysis of shoulder movement. Revised exercises and set goals.
T: Scapular stability exercises (side planks, press-ups, 2 point kneeling etc.)
W: as above
T: as above
F: as above
S: 4 x F5+ routes. Not much post-climb soreness. yyfy.
S: Scapular stability exercises
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Goals for 2010: Burn off Andy F, see Mills climb on rock, see Millso climb RA, maybe sketch up an 8A+
Mon: Route setting, problem testing, overgrading... tired
Tues: Cave, shutdown on Broken Heart, In Hell and Halfway House, think I may have done a lap of Clever Beaver, Beaver cleaver & Lip Service figuring which was the easier finish for BH
Weds: Rest, whole body in pain
Thurs: Try to climb, give up after 40 mins of sever left arm pain
Fri: Rest
Sat: Ilkley, scrambled up Ringpiece then failed to ascend First arete. Brief try on Curious yellow then off to Almscliff. Got Matt's roof done which was nice. Pints and kebab in evening, strong diet of champions. P.s. Davo is a beast.
Sun: Headache, semi glad of biblical snowfall making it a dvd watching/coffee drinking session
Might try to climb something over 7b+ next week :-\
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Goals for 2010 - Grooved, Overnite, Zoolook, COTC. A 7B+ somewhere. Destroy Crouch on the routes ;)
Sun - Malham, Some good training on Raindogs, Felt strong after not using string for 3 months, stamina better than expected.
Tues - The Cave. Annoyingly dropped the move into the flake on LW. Twice. But I did have to use a completely original sequence as everyone else's method doesn't suit.
Wed/Thurs - rest. Battered after Tues.
Fri - good beastmaker session.
Sat - family
Sun - Snow cancelled the planned Malham trip so went to Broughton. Did over 15 6b's, including at least 5 flashes. Best ever Broughton score. Which was nice.
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Goals : Enjoy my climbing
M : Knackered after weekend in Scotland, cooked beef wellington.
T : Usual fun session at the Foundry.
W : Nothing
T : Back at the Foundry again. Had fun.
F : Usual Friday fare, few beers.
S : Spent the day doing lots of fun easy routes at Froggatt before popping over to Tegness briefly.
S : Made three big snow blobs, good fun.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4377141106_5b75f5e952_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/4377141106/)
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Goal - Font 7A.
Weight: 13st 5.5lbs (-2.5lbs on last week)
M: Tired. 100 sit ups (10,20,40,20,10)
T: Foundry bouldering. Good session. First spotty problem with aid from the power goatee.
(using debatable volume crimps).
W: 9miles running 1hr 22mins - Runners high at 7miles :bounce:.
T: Foundry bouldering. Good but tired session. Repeated everything from Tuesday but failed on the last move 4 times on Tuesdays spotty problem. Power goatee let me down. (debatable volume crimps are in). 180 sit ups (20, 20, 30, 40, 30, 20, 20)
F: Rest and beer.
S: Bouldered at Caley. Fairly lame circuit although not far away from climbing the sit-start to The Great Flake.
S: Sacked off my planned Ladybower circle run due to weather. Opted for a local 9 mile run in the snow 1hr 30mins. Freezing cold because of the FUCKING CUNTS who think it's funny to drive near the kerb creating a wave of ice cold slush.
Pretty good week. Hope to repeat this week replacing sit-ups with fingerboard work and no ice cold slush shower.
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goals for the year - font 7b specifically onde du choc, new aim to do 7c route
m - rest
t - good session at tca, planned to work circuits but after warming up got stuck into the new whites; lots of progress but none completed
w - power session on mark's board
t - more work on the whites at tca but no real progress as so knackered
f - rest
s - 3 hours at tca working whites inc steve mac's new problems and circuit. 1 move off flashing the 7a endurance circuit
su - 4 hours at tca. got all the moves on 2 new whites and then dropped the last move on the orange endurance circuit again!
rest tomorrow, pure circuits session on tues then board session again on wed
Mate the only think stopping you from doing a 7c route tomorrow blindfold and with boxing cloves on is actually going outdoors and trying one. Get it sorted lest i punter you.
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short term goal.
climb something harder than 7a outside again.
longer than short term goal goal.get healthier and maybe lose weight.
every morning first thing either shoulder theraband or lower back stretches.
mon.day off work.citybloc mainly grey circuit plus a couple of yellows.wasted at the end.plan to get healthier failed as i needed to drink 2 large bottles of beer to stop my arms aching.
tues.after work out on my road bike for 1hr20mins.
wed rockcity repeated most of the problems i've done before plus one new one.i felt i was still tired from mondays efforts.got home to find wife and daughter had gone to the pub.thought about not going but hell its at least a 5 mins brisk walk.also was able to mention my possible 2 week trip to font while the wife was pissed and agreeable.
thu.after work beast maker session doing 6 sec hangs various grips.also supermen,crabs,spidermen,crunchs,press ups and body lowers.
fri. cycled to work and back 50mins going 1 hr coming back.drank wine.
sat shipley glen wet and the rock was damp as well.did some reasonable eliminate stuff.drank wine.
sun.supermen,crabs,spidermen,crunchs,press ups body lowers.turbo 2 hour session due to having 4 inches of snow outside.did a bit of power lifting getting the telly/video player off the top of the wardrobe.drank wine.
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Goals - Font 7c, double figure Don barbel.
Weight 14.7
M - run, pullups, dips
T - wrestling with 9 year old, no tickling allowed - won with ease
W - visualisation session
Th - brain hurts from yesterdays visualisation session - rest
F - walk in Peak with baby attached
Sa - Plantation bouldering, did nowt harder than 6c, couple of half hearted boings on deliverance
Su - sledging, built snowman, ate pork. Lost living room golf putting tournament with wife.
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Weight: 63kg
Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.
M: Routes at Kendal. Good session some 6c/6c+'s flashed plus several good burns up steep long 7a's. Slowly starting to feel gains in stamina.
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton, warmed up on previously desperate problems (yyfy) and ticked off 3 new ones including one which has spat me off for weeks (yyfy!). Only around 10 more problems to go.
W: Pull ups (18,18,18), assisted one arm pullups, one arm lock offs. Exhausted, go to pub for a couple of pints.
T: Routes at Kendal, reasonable session - more good stamina work and some short hard routes done.
F: Rest, curry and pub.
S: 6 hour walk in the lakes.
S: Abandoned plans for Malham trip. Routes at Kendal, lots of volume at 6b+ - 7a on long steep routes. Slightly poor go on a long 7a (commitment lacking on hard moves) but warm down on long pumpy 6b+ felt piss (felt a bit desperate previously at the end of a session).
Woke up this morning feeling tired and miffed that the weather is beautiful and I had to go back to work! Good week overall though. Stamina has always been a weak point for me (because I'm lazy and its a lot of effort!) but I'm starting to feel like I'm making some progress with it.
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Shortish term (before next september): Onsight E3 at the Head (hopefully salango), boulder 7b
Long term: Be like Jerry
Mon: Beastmaker session, crimp repeaters
Tues: Gym
Wed: Looked longingly at a poster of gogarth and fondled pembroke guide.
Thurs: Beastmaker openhanded deadhang session
Fri: Watched Welsh Connections. Considered moving to wales.
Sat: Geo conference in Belfast.
Sun: Tried to go bouldering at the head. Waterbottle burst in my bag so lugged a pad about 2 miles through a snowstorm with all my stuff drenched only for the crag to be practically a whiteout. Realised "why do you want to move to wales when this is on the doorstep, fool". Got stupidly psyched for a summer of big trad.
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Goals: font 7C
M - nowt
T - intended to do an evening FB session but Wednesday's forecast looked good so I booked the day off work and watched the fooball instead.
W - got up, saw the fog, checked the forecast, went to work. FB in the evening, didn't feel good and ended early when I felt a tweak in middle finger.
Th- ached more than I should have done, started developing sniffles and a bad throat.
F - 2 hours bouldering after work, lots of dampness so ended up at burbage. Not a great session, wanted to be elsewhere really, motivation problematic.
S - family visit down south and back, walked a few miles around Bleinheim Palace, mostly with a toddler aboard. Ate cake.
s - eurgh, cold fully set in now. Also a sore back from driving, baby wrestling, shoulder rides, etc yesterday.
A poor week all round, not much enthusiasm, down with another cold only two weeks after getting over a long one, I've started snacking on crap and my weight's ballooned to 9st 2lbs
On a positive note I did manage to climb on grit for a whole 2 hours without putting a tip through. My Climber's Balm only turned up on Wednesday, is it really that good?
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I've started snacking on crap and my weight's ballooned to 9st 2lbs
if my weight would only balloon to 9st 2lbs.i think my right leg weighs more than that.
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Aims:
Be the best climber in Suffolk
Not go mental living in Bury St Edmunds
Not forget how to climb on rock
Use the distance from the scene to breed paranoia that i am getting weak to fuel more training
Zoo York
m: Weights and core, beat bicep curl pb after climbing rather than doing any weights for 6 months...
t: More weights as I couldn't face going to the local wall and getting burnt off...
w: My loathing of the local wall makes me turn to the most disgraceful of activities, I went for a run (half hour)
t: More running, ended up being out for 45 mins because I got lost. Actually enjoyed it (I must be going mad)
f: Night out in East London, most excellent.
s: Drive to Leeds, get there at half three, head to the cliff until it gets dark but take it easy as I want to crush on Sunday
s: The weather does not want me to crush gritstone, so go to the Depot. Get told that I don't look like a climber, but I look like someone who stays up all night playing computer games and eating cheesy wotsits (this will form the basis for training paranoia this week). Drive back to Suffolk (total 8 hrs driving for the weekend, sorry atmosphere).
aims for this week:
Hang beastmaker from powerbar thing
do more running
do less driving
go to the wall and be the best
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go to the Lakes and be the best
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S-Bouldered at Dinas with chris savage
M-Team training bouldering and campus boards
T-Spotlight bouldering at Dinas, sent hardest boulder ever! ;D
W-Rest so core etc
T-Leading first time in a while
F-Beastmaker
S-Went for an 8mile run but got blisters 4 miles in. ran rest barefoot.
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Goals: E2 trad. 7b boulder. Harder, Better, Faster, Stronger.
M: The Depot
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: BANFF MFF. Got psyched.
F: 2x 12 miles on bike
S: Deer Gallows Crag. VSs and HVSs
S: Rest
I like calling doing fuck all "Rest".
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Bollocks, may as well set a baseline.
Aim, get some fitness back - down to 13.5 st, 13 st stretch
Do a decent 7a prob by middle of year
Get some surfing fitness back.
M - walk to work and back (1 hr total), hour of yoga.
T - walk to work and back (1 hr total),
W - walk to work and back (1 hr total) weight 13st 11 3/4 (down 1 1/4), hour of yoga - commented that yoga classes were getting like Groundhog Day as we did the same thing at every class, so we had a go at elbow headstands, and I managed 5 secs in full control, a PB
T - walk to work and back (1 hr total)
F - walk to work and back (1 hr total) Went out with new dads from ante natal class and got totally blitzed.
S - worked core muscles with head in toilet (I am officially a drinking puff) went for almost 2 hour walk in sunlit snowy forest with nipper, then half hour walk on beach
S - 30 min walk to beach and back.
Have decided doing any beastmaker work while Olympics is on is impossible, so am enjoying being a couch potato while there is sport worth watching on telly. Am doing about 20 ish pushups a day though, and eating breakfast after morning walk which seems to help weight a bit.
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2010 Goals:
End goal: Get to a European climbing place, redpoint something harder than ive done before, have a baby.
Intermediate goals: Get strong enough bouldering for T crack and Jerrys traverse. Get to below single digit % body fat just before European trip.
Monday: After work set of lame power pull ups (45mins)
Tuesday: 6am Beastmaker session (45mins)
Wednesday: WWay boulder sess, probably less than ten problems, max v5.
Thursday: Power pulls up in a rush - parents in law arrive :(
Friday: rest - lardy dinner with parents in law - 15% body fat :(
Sat: WWay boulder session, manage a v6 and a v7. Avoided parents in law. :)
Sun: WWay boulder session, had a good fun session but failed on everything. Avoided parents in law.
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
How can you oblige people into posting their training routines?
Those who want to participate in this thread have done or will do, those who have no inclination haven't/won't.
Besides the "beasts" are probably too busy training to post details anyway :P
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters.
S'all relative isn't it? At my level I consider anyone with goals and previous form anywhere in the sport 8's as a bit of a beast and there are a few of them posting in this thread.
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Goals: DKV2; easy Spanish ticks.
Weight: 9st - about right.
M - "Rest".
T - Chapel: problem sets, endurance circuits and some opposites training.
W - 9 big wall routes; five big falls.
T - "Rest".
F - "Rest". Beer.
S - Chapel: problem sets, endurance circuits and some opposites training.
S - Ill.
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
Its just a request!
How can you oblige people into posting their training routines?
Those who want to participate in this thread have done or will do, those who have no inclination haven't/won't.
Besides the "beasts" are probably too busy training to post details anyway :P
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W
T
F ?
There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
Its just a request!
How can you oblige people into posting their training routines?
Those who want to participate in this thread have done or will do, those who have no inclination haven't/won't.
Besides the "beasts" are probably too busy training to post details anyway :P
;)
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several posts on both weeks so far jasper but no schedule.come on man up and post up.
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13616.msg244967.html#msg244967 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13616.msg244967.html#msg244967)
I'll do it properly soon I promise. :-*
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
Being a confirmed punter I actually find it more useful to see what other punters do/manage to fit in round the rest of life. What some beast in his 20s with loads of spare time gets up to is of much less relevance.
Overall I'm pretty impressed by how much some people do. Are there many sports (running would be an obvious example) where amateur hobbyists in the 30s and 40s are regularly fitting in 4+ training sessions a week?
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yes most amateur cyclists would try to ride/ train most days whilst spending eye watering amounts of cash on equipment.
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I agree with Andy. I'm surprised just how much training people are doing. Fucked if I can knock out bags of pull-ups/sit-ups/press-ups of an evening...
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Fucked if I can knock out bags of sit-ups of an evening...
You're not pulling the wool over anyone's eyes
Word is that bending over and picking up pieces of lego a 100 times a night is the dernier cri of core workouts
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There are some total beasts that post on this forum and so far Power Club posts are mostly from us punters. It would be a massive help to those of us who are less able to see what the stronger people are doing week in week out so please get involved, you know who you are!
(i anticipate being puntered for this but still worth a shot)
Being a confirmed punter I actually find it more useful to see what other punters do/manage to fit in round the rest of life. What some beast in his 20s with loads of spare time gets up to is of much less relevance.
Overall I'm pretty impressed by how much some people do. Are there many sports (running would be an obvious example) where amateur hobbyists in the 30s and 40s are regularly fitting in 4+ training sessions a week?
As another confirmed 30-something punter with family and job, I've found buying a top-draw finger-board has made a big impact. The option of doing a sneak 30 minute session rather than 3 hrs at the wall means I can balance more training and more family time. I just wish I had a handy 45 in my garage ;)
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30 something! I wish. I do have the 45 in the garage though.
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30 something! I wish. I do have the 45 in the garage though.
Ok, nearly 40 ::) :'(
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Agree with AndyF that a fingerboard is crucial when time is limited, mine's a DIY effort though so maybe investing in a proper one would help further.
Also very interesting to see what folk with similar aspirations are doing to reach them. Two weeks in and it appears that I'm just not drinking enough.
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Goals
1) Appear on cover of Mens Health
2) Go for first run since 1994 (it doesn't sound difficult, but it's all in the execution)
3) Do an ironman
4) Climb a photogenic Fr8a, make mugs etc
Monday - 7x 30s intervals on bike, then pumped iron. Considered various arguments in Tschumi's Architecture and Disjunction. Got headache.
Tuesday - About an hour of biking that was supposed to be easy, but wasn't. Core strength exercices - must invest in effete yoga outfit.
Wednesday - 2 minute threshold intervals, aborted as legs felt like they had just been operated on. Large negroni followed by a decent Beaune.
Thursday - No idea. Oh yeah (fuck, she'd go beserk), fois gras and sauternes in bed.
Friday - Fucking great dinner at La Trouvaille. Flicked through Mens Health (punters) then walked quickly for train.
Saturday - Amazing beautiful day, blue sky, perfect cycling opportunity, etc. So stayed inside assembling regency wardrobe, drank some lovely riesling then ate lunch. Rest of day a blur.
Sunday - Fucking appalling weather. Sat on my arse and redesigned garden.
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Monday - N/A
Tuesday- N/A
Wednesday - First session back in the Den. Surprisingly better than expected.
Thursday - N/A
Friday - N/A
Sat - Went up to Normans Wisdom and pulled down for a few hours. Feeling psyche coming back and amazed can still pull on holds after a lengthy period of no exercise.
Sunday - Went out for a pizza for friends birthday. Lovely stuff
This week is a slight step up in gear.
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I knew last week would be a write off.
Sun - Gym
Mon - In London with Work
Tues - In London with Work
Wed-Sat - away with the kids for half term
Not had too bad a run of late, but next week not looking promising, so need to make up for it this week.
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Forgot to renew MOT oops
Lots of cycling. Is it legal to listen to tunes on the bicycle? Enjoying it so the plod can fuck off anyways.
Bored of climbing plastic oops
Lots of fingerboarding instead set myself an easy to stick to training plan based on the research of Eva Lopez, dont be fooled by the rocks that....
Diet no
Chocolate and beer yes.
I am all out of enthusiasm so might try and perk myself up using this gayness...
plan is
2 weeks on - 2 finger board session per week mebbe some climbing
1 week off - 1 fingerboard session plus a bit of what takes my fancy
2 weeks on - 3 fb sessions per week mebbe a climb snow allowing
1 week off 1 fb session probably not obther climbing
2 weeks on - 4 fb sessions per week couldnt possibly face climbing
1 week off - climbing can right fuck off.
I am 2 days into resting before the 4 fingerboard sessions next week. No missed sessions or broken pulleys yet.
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Agree with AndyF that a fingerboard is crucial when time is limited, mine's a DIY effort though so maybe investing in a proper one would help further.
I've been very impressed with the beastmaker I bought.. great progressions between the holds - and the slopers are....
Also very interesting to see what folk with similar aspirations are doing to reach them. Two weeks in and it appears that I'm just not drinking enough.
:) I've also noticed how careful so many people are with their weight... I've never owned some scales and last time I weighed myself was at the doctors when having a medical!
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The option of doing a sneak 30 minute session
Do you find 30 minute sessions productive? I find if I'm warming up from cold (not just tagging something on the end of a day out 'cos I don't feel worked etc.) it takes me about 30mins to get properly warmed up on a fingerboard...
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What's a warm-up? 30 pull- ups on the big slots, 30 pull-ups on the 20 degree middle big sloper and I'm good to go. Oh, max 30 seconds between sets, none of this rest for 2 minutes and have a cup of tea malarky ;D
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Fucked if I can knock out bags of pull-ups/sit-ups/press-ups of an evening...
Actually take no time at all - normally do set while waiting for kettle to boil and such like.
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It's not the time, it's the being arsed. :)
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What's a warm-up? 30 pull- ups on the big slots, 30 pull-ups on the 20 degree middle big sloper and I'm good to go. Oh, max 30 seconds between sets, none of this rest for 2 minutes and have a cup of tea malarky ;D
weren't you whinging about a tweaky finger recently?
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It's not the time, it's the being arsed. :)
I suspected that might be the case. Not been climbing or in the water for so long now, need to at least do something.
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Inspired by the realisation that I'm not the only late 30 something to still be so ridiculously addicted to climbing I fingerboard I thought I'd join in:
STG:
2 weeks in font (get in), climbs loads and do at least 1 7B+
Freaky Ralph
MTG:
more Freaky Ralph
LTG:
probably still Freaky Ralph
Mon - BM, max hangs
Tues - ARC'ing at local wall good for nothing else
Wed - BM, max hangs
Thurs - friend turns up for visit, cook dinner and make chocolate cake
Fri - relaxed day out notable for more chocolate cake
Sat - spend day ambling gently between food and beer, last of cake
Sun - full english, friend goes home, weigh myself and sigh
Re warm-ups, my middle aged fingers take at least 30 minutes to remember what they can do.
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The option of doing a sneak 30 minute session
Do you find 30 minute sessions productive? I find if I'm warming up from cold (not just tagging something on the end of a day out 'cos I don't feel worked etc.) it takes me about 30mins to get properly warmed up on a fingerboard...
Sometimes it's the only time I get... I'd like longer but 30 minutes is better than nothing.
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What's a warm-up? 30 pull- ups on the big slots, 30 pull-ups on the 20 degree middle big sloper and I'm good to go. Oh, max 30 seconds between sets, none of this rest for 2 minutes and have a cup of tea malarky ;D
weren't you whinging about a tweaky finger recently?
Yep, still hurts a bit, but vitamin I and not using the pockets as much seems to have helped.
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30 something! I wish. I do have the 45 in the garage though.
Ok, nearly 40 ::) :'(
Sorry Andy, I meant me, not you.