UKBouldering.com
places to visit => conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) => Topic started by: Nike Air on May 01, 2009, 06:12:13 pm
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To anyone who cares, its dry, steep and shady...
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Has anybody been here in the last few days? Wondering if its grim or not? :-\
Kleptomaina and illywacker especially.
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All dry :great:
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Most stuff dry. Few wet pockets on routes that can be avoided. More traffic people!
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You think it will still be dry tomorrow even with all the forecast rain?
Thinking of Kleptomania in particular.
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You think it will still be dry tomorrow even with all the forecast rain?
Thinking of Kleptomania in particular.
Kleptomania will be fine. You might struggle to get warmed up on stuff. You could just lap the bottom of Kleptomania to the tuffa at fr5+
Might be a tad humid. Was lashing it down when we were there yesterday and stayed bone dry. Nothing on the above route really seeps.
ps. Take a knee ad for right knee.
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[/quote]
ps. Take a knee Pad for right knee.
[/quote]
Left.
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ps. Take a knee Pad for right knee.
[/quote]
Left.
[/quote]
That's what i meant ;)
Was thinking of TSOOHS!
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Take some firewood too :thumbsup:
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...and midge repellent.
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Cheers chaps.
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In pretty good nick the other day. Dry looking routes. Sunset B, illywack, klepto, one hand slappin.
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If anyone's interested its bone dry at the moment and the routes would benefit from a bit of traffic.
There must be some wads out there up for repeating Dunning's hard routes/extensions to Kleptomania!
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Pretty mint in there last night. all routes look dry. Dropped in to put a belay on my new route, the left hand finish to the sound of one hand slapping to the top of the crag. Goes at roughly 8b. Needs a second ascent....
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Bone dry in there today :thumbsup:
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Anyone been recently? Does Kleptomania stay dry even after the sort of rain we've had lately?
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We had a couple of Sundays there a month ago, and while Klepto should be dry, we've sacked it off for the summer due to midge hell. Doesn't seem to catch a breeze either so didn't see that helping. :shrug:
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Was that the famous month of Sundays we had?
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Thanks Rob, did wonder about the midges and breeze. May give it a miss :-\
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I haven't been on a rope in years and neither have I ever been on a route harder than 7b, but Kleptomania has piqued my interest as a boulder problem in the sky. As an 8a route, does that mean it should weigh in at around f7C after the apparently bomber kneebar? In theory that might feel ok!
Judging by the posts above it stays dry too. Anyone keen?
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I haven't been on a rope in years and neither have I ever been on a route harder than 7b, but Kleptomania has piqued my interest as a boulder problem in the sky. As an 8a route, does that mean it should weigh in at around f7C after the apparently bomber kneebar? In theory that might feel ok!
Judging by the posts above it stays dry too. Anyone keen?
As a boulder problem it's probably more like 7A+/B if you can get the techy knees against the tufa to work. I wouldn't underestimate actually clipping the chains, frustratingly knacky.
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I've never done a 7C boulder on an 8a route, and I've done a few very bouldery ones!
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I haven't been on a rope in years and neither have I ever been on a route harder than 7b, but Kleptomania has piqued my interest as a boulder problem in the sky. As an 8a route, does that mean it should weigh in at around f7C after the apparently bomber kneebar? In theory that might feel ok!
Judging by the posts above it stays dry too. Anyone keen?
As a boulder problem it's probably more like 7A+/B if you can get the techy knees against the tufa to work. I wouldn't underestimate actually clipping the chains, frustratingly knacky.
Yeah its 7b max. People always overgrade blocs on routes
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There was a lengthy thread recently about exactly this topic and I think it was generally reckoned that 7B boulder equated to 8a route.