I gather the robbins etc had a load of mats and a ladder to create a landing
3 repeats of promise today, as I understand it. Bransby, Robbins, Roberts.
Get effort to all.
I also heard that benpritch hit the top of the joker 1,000,000 times but still failed to hold it
shirley,
if i meant flash i would not have written onsight. :shrug:
I'd have to give James even more credit for never having seen it in hard grit or consumed. That was probably harder than doing the route for him
E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.Did he mention how many pads / ladders he used?
Dave - What is Blind Fury?
Master's Edge has also been ground-upped by a brit...it seems to be the season of ground-ups! :great:
Nice one Will! (willackers on here)
no mention of the laddered landing on there,
Edit: Having watched the video of Bransbubble taking the whipper, it's obvious (as if it wasn't bloody obvious already) where any so-called grading "discrepancy" comes from: James was totally right with his grade estimate if he thought the ball nut would rip and was purely psychological - that would be a bloody horrendous deck-out with ripping gear and no mats. He didn't overestimate the grade he underestimated the ball nut. Word.
Good effort on the ascent, please don't take the following as criticism it's not, just a genuine question, do you feel that the route is E8 with hole covered with a ladder and then padded out or E8 without the ladder and pads?All route grades are based on the theoretical baseline position of onsight with no pads. I assume everyone is sticking to this convention when they suggest grades.
Appropos of nothing I see that no one is saying superblock can't be E8 because it's only x high.....
E7 7a/Font 7b+ for The Promise according to Pete.
Fair play tc, not so much an armchair critic, more a wise old bastard!
Didn't you say it looked like an E5 7a?
If so, and the route does eventually settle down at E8, which is looking likely, then yours is the most wayward 'guess' yet. Hardly a reason to be gloating.
OnE puLL Up too MANyso you did two pull ups, didn't you?
BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?
However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!
I think PATRuL speaks to a certain truth
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.bit.
:yawn:
especially on the suposed big splash routes
I'm more bored of the 'debate' than PatrUL.
If the peddlers of the economic ragnarokapocalypseendofdays are on the money, then perhaps a return to the dole days of the 80's is not too far from view. Having lots of free time might allow more people access to the higher levels of sport climbing. P'rhaps.
There was a thing in a mag one time by Ian Parnell about all rounders ("And that, my friend, is a full house") mostly concentrating on trad and ice. In it, Dave Macleod said he should include sport and bouldering, as they were actually the hardest diciplines to do well in.
Oh yes I went climbing today, dug the car out, dug the drive out, helped deneige the hamlet, went to the crag , soaking shit, enjoyed ourselves, my choice I am not a fire man, I choose to do no work so I am free. I have never got a route grade wrong, wierd how some people do though. Stevie
Yes, climbing in the alps is just snow plodding...http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp (http://www.psychovertical.com/images/ianParnellCleaningGear.asp)
Didnt JC Lafaille climb 8c, or maybe even 8c+, as well as soloing 8000 metre peaks and establishing some of the hardest routes in the alps? Now THATS an all rounder.
people bend rules or are confusing styles
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.
And as for PATRul I think he, as much as you, is one of the things that makes UKB really good.
This forum could be brill but you scare off many people who could help, a moderater would help of course and a bit of maturity. Stevie.
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.I see what you're saying, but I think it's in part based on a false perception. You can't assume that your personal experience of intense climbing as a Sheffield resident is the same as other people's. For sure there is an amount of negativity within any group. There are good people and fools among any group. There will always be a mix of people doing things for the right and wrong motives. There is a degree of skill required for a person to take the best from a situation and not be adversely affected by the worst. Plenty of climbers try hard, even enjoy a degree of competativity without this becoming a corrupting force in their life. It's a game we all play in our own way, for some people it works and for others it doesn't. I think your view of climbing is over simplistic. Do you get more or less out of your time climbing since you stopped trying hard? I'd wager that you had the best moments as a climber during the time you were climbing at your hardest. Regardless of the motivations which got you there it's the joy of efficient motion on rock which will stay as the treasured memory.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.
Peas are ace.
hats off to mick. proper local hero. he doesn't shy away from the king lines either.
1. Taking the left arete of the SB block (do not jam the lower left crack) to gain the rail at half height, follow this into the middle of the wall and then rock up into the crack and onto the top.
Nice prob at around 7b (V8) not dissimilar in difficulty to Savito.
Listen,some of you are bored of the debate- well dont take part. If you dont give a toss stay off. We thought things would sort themselves out along time ago, they didnt.
this new broadband has wanked my mind
i'm not on about the LH version. whenever it was I did neil's sitter (according to 8a.nu this was 18th june - see, they are useful) i watched him do it getting the rec viol crimp with lh and making a very long span to the poor hold just shy of the groove on the right, then making a nails looking windmill slap to holds above. its almost like a RH variant, looked about the same grade. i like to think it was the psyche of seeing me crush NW sitter like it was a warmup gave him the psyche to get through it.
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.
What safe, hard E8's are out there, waiting for climbers like Dave?
Make a list.
Noticed a news report on UKC that Dave Barrans On-Sighted Little Women (E7 7a) @ Apparent North (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=338820). :bow:
Witnessed by at least Jordan Buys (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=337661).
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)
Invincible has F8b climbing on it, the dangerous bit is by the pegs with the natural gear being safer if I remember my old OTE correctly.
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!
I noticed on 8a.nu Mina has done an 8a. Teamwork, in Switzerland. How many british women have climbed Font 8a?
Good effort and all that but I'm much more impressed by her ticks in Font recently.
I noticed on 8a.nu Mina has done an 8a. Teamwork, in Switzerland. How many british women have climbed Font 8a?
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Good effort though.
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Well done Jordan. As Nik said, we were there that day. There was a shout as we left and I was waiting to hear he'd sent it.
Now all we need is a UKC grade debate :wank:
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
I think that's for them / him to decide, and I'm sure he doesn't need to be questioned about it on the internet.
i may be totally wrong, but isn't there something about Jehovah's Witnesses and not taking risks?
Good effort though.
but the gear after the break, although very specialist, is actually really good.
idiots. I suppose those guys assume that if you roll a di(c)e once and get a 6, that you'll get a 6 everytime. fucking retards.
Not sure that it's 'significant' but Madams did Sway On the other week.
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...
Mick Adams?
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...
Mick Adams?
sounds about right, nice guy - very humble and understated...
significant for the south.....
Guy Fawkes and My Chemical Romance (both V11) were repeated in double quick time by a northern raider in the last couple of days
Don't know the guy but he seem like a top bloke
Richie C was there (nice to meet you btw) so he will have more info...
Mick Adams?
Isn't Tyler's blog fantastic.
Keith has captured all my ascents on video, so lookout for his upcoming Font film due in a couple months.
You can't skim read either as you may just miss the bit when he says he has done a problem!
It was possible. I could do it right now. I could eat bolognese tonight.
I make his ticklist in a month (8A and above):
Amok 8A
Fata Morgana 8A
Cetait Demain 8A
Apparement 8A
Les Beaux Quartiers 8A
Atresie 8A (in the same session as the Big 4)
Fata Morgana Bas 8A+
Ubik 8A+
Karma 8A+
Partage 8A+
Gecko 8A+/8B
L'Insoutenable.......8B
Ubik Assis 8B
Kheops 8B
Satan I Helvete 8B
Apparemment Assis 8B
Gecko Assis 8B+
Kheops Assis 8B+
Satan I Helvete Assis 8C
Fucking outstanding.
Nevermind all that gravy, I've just had a report with some real meat: Dense has done Berezina.
:o
I see Ty's training hard for the real work of representing the Works as part of our team for the CWIF (see the comps section if you're still oblivious)Have you ever considered calling it the Spring Climbing Works International Festival? :whistle:
I make his ticklist in a month (8A and above):
Amok 8A
Fata Morgana 8A
Cetait Demain 8A
Apparement 8A
Les Beaux Quartiers 8A
Atresie 8A (in the same session as the Big 4)
Fata Morgana Bas 8A+
Ubik 8A+
Karma 8A+
Partage 8A+
Gecko 8A+/8B
L'Insoutenable.......8B
Ubik Assis 8B
Kheops 8B
Satan I Helvete 8B
Apparemment Assis 8B
Gecko Assis 8B+
Kheops Assis 8B+
Satan I Helvete Assis 8C
Fucking outstanding.
ty doing
t-rex assis, conviction (flash), fata morgana bas
conviction could have a sit but it hasn't been done.Oh, OK. It is described as a sit start in the 7+8's guide (and on bleau.info I think).
http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/)
pretty good day out!!!!
Bernd Zangerl has repeated Dave Grahams "From Dirt Grows The Flowers" 8c, in Swis.
Ty's forest ticklist. (http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Back%20in%20Blighty-n-894.html)
Nothing short of stunning.
Noticeable that he's only taken 8B+ for Satan I Helvete Assis which was originally given 8C.
must be at the top of the tree after that performance.
Dolph repeated the ss to Axiom at Fairy Steps last week and Walk Away standup the day before yesterday (with similar/same beta as Greg). Good effort beast!
Andy Earl made a quick repeat of Dan's Arc Royal yesterday
Louis Armstrong, 4th ascent, Nacho Sanchez
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?
fucking beasted it once he'd remembered the correct sequence.
Think dobbin has vid, maybe up on vimeo soon?
probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.
probably very soon! I'm sure its gettting streamed from the car as we speak.I am suprised Dobbin didn't have a real time stream as it happend. :lol:
p.s. YOU can live with the macho man for just £300 per month (including bills)
Watson made the 2nd ascent of Red Dragon too, which is also a good effort and well worth a mention.
when i heard he was called nacho i just assumed it was a hilarious gag based on him being spanish. i was a bit disappointed to discover it's his real name.
After being way close the last couple of visits, Nacho sealed the deal on Keen Roof today, more good work from the Spanish beast :bow:
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"! Good shit Nacho, the two 8b limestone roof testpieces of Britain both in afew weeksa week!
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!
It's not about power... it's basically about momentum.
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!
Keita Mogaki flashed La Danse de Balrog at Branson t'other day.
QuoteIt's not about power... it's basically about momentum.QuoteAs Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"!
'simple, two moves, first move up to an incut slot'
'Yosemite stone masters!'
'Yer! If i can't do these problems, i wan't someone to do them'
I was tempted to start a 'favourite Greg Loh quote' thread..'yer!' :thumbsup:
Mawson did power ranger today.
As Greg Loh once said: "Oh my god who is that guy"! Good shit Nacho, the two 8b limestone roof testpieces of Britain both in a few weeks!
If only there was an unrepeated, hard, holdless slab somewhere that Crouch could go and do :-\
LOL!
Like that first picture :)
I don't do it myself... but I would argue if you can't tell, it doesn't matter.
... it's only the 6th ascent in twenty odd years...
Apologies for the earlier 'joke', it was really only intended for consumption on merseyside.
i did the thing in bout '97 started workin it it in '94 lol
G and Probes, I'm planning on avoiding any more vertical shenanigans for as long as possible
i did the thing in bout '97 started workin it it in '94 lol
This seems to be a previously unknown ascent!!
I think it's time to get back on NW overhang :whistle:
@ G and Probes, I'm planning on avoiding any more vertical shenanigans for as long as possible and want to get back to the cave asap (which strangely proved to be excellent training for pex :-\)
Aaron Tonks has also just done Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell.
Do you not fancy doing it, A?
Aaron Tonks has also just done Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell.
Good stuff.
Which one is that Adam?
Which one is that Adam?
Which one is that Adam?Which one is that Adam?
Kinda Cloning Technology reverse.
Start far right, follow Tom's Traverse Reverse then down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave. Then shuffle shuffle left, up What's This For to the good hold, across Crucifix Kiss, keep on left to the jugs above The Beauty of Being Numb.
Ah that link 8)
Which one is that Adam?Which one is that Adam?
Kinda Cloning Technology reverse.
Start far right, follow Tom's Traverse Reverse then down through the roof to the start of Screaming Slave. Then shuffle shuffle left, up What's This For to the good hold, across Crucifix Kiss, keep on left to the jugs above The Beauty of Being Numb.
Ah that link 8)
??? howd that get in there!
You have entered concentric quoting hell. :guilty:
Too right!
lol rofl
The question of who Probes is still stands. Is this some unheard of repeat of Monoblock? What a trade route it has become. I'll have to make a quick send of Joe's start next time I'm back to raise the bar a bit.
Ain't my place to add names to your list Will
Ain't my place to add names to your list Will, but Probes has come 2nd to Parry and knocked Hockstack into 3rd in competitions of the past.
Go figure :P
Stop making lists, start revising Will :spank:
Bingley bald terrace ghost took advantage of sticky damp today to ascend sooopaman. (effort!) get down to citybloc and get 8b strong!
Bingley bald terrace ghost took advantage of sticky damp today to ascend sooopaman. (effort!) get down to citybloc and get 8b strong!
since when has superman been 8b by the way?
at least you passed your spelling test to be a doctor, I just hope you handwriting is illegible
since when has superman been 8b by the way?
Mina did rock attrocity yesterday! Good effort considering the amount of testosterone that was present!
I thought Dobbin was there?
Good effort!
Mina did rock attrocity yesterday! Good effort considering the amount of testosterone that was present!
2nd female ascent?
keith and adam lincoln are safe for now.
I am not sure Keith will be that pleased to be named alongside me in the film making stakes!
(technical query, does this start as for Ben's and then yard off across the impossible-ness or does it have a different start?)Original sequence went like this (I missed the first move, but it's a sitstart from good holds):
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.
From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.
From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!
I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.
Shauna also made a quick ascent of Carnage sit start (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur Angle (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou at Bas Cuvier.
From ukc, i think this is a pretty good effort!
I agree, but I wish people would stop climbing Carnage assis, its dog turd and its like taking easy pickings.
no I can't... I'd move over to Berezina, or go for a walk for 10 minutes and get stuck into Noir Desir, or Tristesse, or Big Boss. Maybe fourmis?
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up :dance1:
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up :dance1:
3rd ascent of arc royal too, chris graham done it ground up :dance1:
seeing as though I'm leaving the country for a while soon; may I ask has anyone repeated this yet straight up as per Dan?
paul you and nat having a leaving
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them. BEAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Was that the original Gaskins sequence?
with regards to pinch 2 ...
Is that not where it started though? Not sure but I thought so, Lakes bloc just says the roof direct, missing the crack on the right out. The line on the topo looks like it comes from there? :shrug: Effort either way.
Were there any ascents using the left smear without pof?
who else have we heard about repeating it?
probes don't think i was having a 'go' at sam, i wasn't at all. i like the sound of 'kaizen: the gay way'. rings a bell, so to speakNo i know u werent, was agreein with you. :thumbsup:
When any of you see sam you will be amazed he can lift his burl off the ground at all. a condom full of pork mince.
'I'm just not into all this feeling light stuff!'me neither
Are you gonna tell them Stallioni or shall I?
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?
I dunno, he might not be happy if I Drew attention to it because he wants to publicise it himself. Haigh, he might even Cry or something. Freedom of speech and all though.
no ste mac?
no ste mac?Steve hasn't done it. AFAIK he's been on it once or twice and is among those you reckon 8c.
Effort Drew. AFAIK the list is:
Leach
Dunne
Tribout
Moon
Sellars
Smith
Mitchell
Haigh
Any others?
but is steady if you can reach off the footholds. Good effort Drew.
but is steady if you can reach off the footholds. Good effort Drew.
And on that subject wasn't/isn't Nick good? As he's not a full bore sport climber anymore, you forget just how many hard routes he crushed all those years ago.
:agree:Can't say i've seen ANY climbers without a shadow!
One of the best climbers I have ever seen without a shadow.
Can't say i've seen ANY climbers without a shadow!
Indeed,after watching him peel off the top, the passing tourist could have been forgiven for thinking the route was called "Cry Fuck!!"
...wasn't/isn't Nick good?
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?
This isn't UKC. Whats with all the cloak and dagger bollox?
dom wragg repeated kudos today at rubicon
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.
Effort. Well done Naomi. Proper finish (i.e. clipping the belay from the jug) or jump finish?
Has 2nd female ascent of rockatrocity not been mentioned yet. Young lass (Shawna?), first visit to the cave (I think), spent about 15 minutes sorting out the moves, fell off the final go-again move to the slot on her first go, then pissed it next go. No whooping, no fuss - all very cool-ly done.
Was warm as well.
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused! :thumbsup:
Learning my arse, went to Cratcliffe with her a few weeks ago and she strolled up everything there too. Andrea, dunno surname.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/AL_FFE-1.jpg)
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused! :thumbsup:
The girl's a mutant!
The point I was trying to get across was the style in which she did the problem. She turned up, worked out her own beta in the blink of an eye, and had it bagged up and was moving on to Lou Ferrino within half an hour. Very impressive indeed.
Gaz Parry repeated the 8c-True north at Kilnsey on Tuesday!!
Good holiday tick :thumbsup:
or should that be ex-pats? ;)
Did a fun link yesterday there, 50 for 5 into the top of the Ashes, mega combo and a great pump.
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.
It is, and Pete did flash it, after crushing Grooved Arete second go.
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,
Pete generally makes most things look a doddle, don't delude yourself that its easy
On her 8a card it is down as Atomic Playboy Raccourci which gets 7c+.
I hope this isn't too much of a maverick report for a bouldering forum, but I'm sure some people will be interested. Tom Randall got the first repeat of Green Spit in Orco last week, touted as one of the worlds hardest cracks, at around F8b+.
He will be fourth (?) ascentionist after Didier Berthod, Nicolas Favresse and Sonnie Trotter which puts Tom in a pretty select (and godly) group.
Ondra's flashed two confirmed 8Bs in Rocklands. In fifteen minutes.
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?
Yes! Being angry after failure in Amandla, I flashed this one! could not have been more lucky, huge fight! thanks to Marijus for beta!
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire :)You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire :)You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.
How so, is Ramshaw Crack within reach? Does look like some pretty knarly finger jams.
Essentially a very hard boulder problem on a rope!
can a crack come under the heading of a boulder problem, even if its on a boulder? the climbing is simply too hard, no matter how easy its supposed to be
Pete Robins climbed Liquid Ambar today. Awesome effort.
Awesome. He should get himself down to Rivel........
Showed us a short vid of him flashing Brad Pit too (not sure if that was today or somewhen else though), but exceptionally smooth climbing.
Parthian Shot (w/direct start), placing gear on lead (!!! is this the first such ascent in this style? Not sure if those Oz boys did similar in the dusk a year or so back?) and Meshuga between showers.
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.
the parthian thing is impressive, but i think i'm still more inspired by pete and LA. hard work paying off.
That meant TRing it in September when it was still warm and getting abuse on this forum from know-alls about "some tw*t trying Parthian Shot when it was clearly too warm etc".
Doyle in LA tick shocker!! (http://cdn-1.muchosucko.com/production/asset/thumb/059/819//microdick.jpg)
thats hilarious. you must have a pretty low "abuse" (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9942.msg165356.html#msg165356) tollerance threshold though tom you fucking lanky cunt.
;)
people, there's one 'o' in lose, as in "I am about to lose my temper with you, you naughtly little boy"
Simpson still has it. (Did he ever lose it?)
Penumbral Solar Eclipse, 8c in the Jura.
What's he ever done in the Mont Blanc range though?See what you did there
well done throbber, now can you start being lazy eating cake
On more important matters have you got my gri gri (red locking biner?)
Last saw it a few weeks ago near you and Jules under Body machine ( the time when I snapped a hold off).
Another great day for Brits!
Stew Watson has done Mordor (8c+/9a)
Another great day for Brits!
Stew Watson has done Mordor (8c+/9a)
Is this the thing Sam was telling me about the other day?
You on first name terms with him Adam? Or just can't spell his surname? :)
Can't spell his surname. :P
Must be something about climbing hard and having an unpronounceable surname.
That's a great effort. Been tried by a lot of strong fuckers. What an amazing looking route.
Its what happens when you spend the summer in Europe ;)
Spend the summer comp climbing ;)
Spend the summer comp climbing ;)
Great effort.
Wonder if Koyamada is still out there and will nip in for an ascent now conditions have improved, and if P Rob will return for a send?
Yesterday Ryan Pasquill did Ray's Roof, second go :jaw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/)
Jame McHaffie repeats Haston's Bam Bam (http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=225&ngroup=2) :bow:
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!
He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.
Yesterday Ryan Pasquill did Ray's Roof, second go :jaw:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30536520@N02/)
ted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!
He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.
Not the flash that you predicted then, skills Ted, Pill Box is waiting....
shit bastardted kingsnorth ended his seige of mecca!
He also crushed Zeke the freak today 2nd rp.
Not the flash that you predicted then, skills Ted, Pill Box is waiting....
I know. C'mon Ted ;)
Dan Warren completed the second ascent of Bulbhaul and the third ascent of the Real Keelhaul at the 'cliff in a session this evening, congratulations beast! :bow:
I can't wait for the box season to commence, bring it on!! ;D
I can't wait for the box season to commence, bring it on!! ;D
When is this exactly? And, good effort SuperTed!
Cheers Dobbin! Yes, I will soon see the light and head back to that bit of Raven Tor stuck onto the Orme! All I know is its not the box season when your pad gets blown into the sea!
When the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
One day you'll do Mr Whippy mateQuoteWhen the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
QuoteWhen the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
QuoteWhen the cave was completely gopping the box would always be shit
When the cave was completely gopping the box would often be fine, the wind is the killer though.
When the cave was completely gopping the box would often be fine, the wind is the killer though.
I presume you are talking about a climbing venue and not another 'venue' :-\ :o
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Vickers did it in 2000Did he do it in a deity?
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?
Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?
It is a repeat according to a Spanish wad named Ramon.
So why'd you write it was a first ascent? Are you trying to use the Chewbacca defence (http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1974564/chewbacca_defense/)?Tom Bolger has done his first 9a in St Llorenc. It is a first ascent too.
Congratulations Tom, but Adam - how can you get this confused with a repeat?
It is a repeat according to a Spanish wad named Ramon.
If he keeps this pace up, he'll have climbed every route and boulder ever thought of by man by 12 April next year.
Rumour has it, Adam can now cure blindness and the common cold.
More to come.
Neil Dyer just did his first 8c, The Hulk in rodellar.
QuoteMore Ondra crushage........
Neil Dyer just did his first 8c, The Hulk in rodellar.
I said it was a first ascent as that was what Tom had on his scorecard on 8a. It then turned out that it wasn't. Whats with the Spanish inquisition. :shrug:The point is that you posted what you thought was a first ascent in the significant repeats thread, no Spanish inquisition, you know what they're like on ukb! (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11461.0.html)- though it was news, you might have got carried away with the numbers and missed out poor Stus back patting opportunity first. Comprende?
Finally! :thumbsup: who?
Anyhow let's move on - NIKS WALL HAS BEEN REPEATED BY A NON-LOCAL! SHAME ON SHEFFIELD!Surely the biggest news of the year, details??
Source? Witnesses, Photographs.
Just curious, after all we've never heard of things claimed turning out to have been a wee bit ficticious?
Note I'm not calling the chap a liar, glad that it's been done just suprised at how the news has come out.
The gap between easy and impossible is relatively narrow compared to on steeper ground,
slab angled rock being probably the commonest of angles.
because people just aren't into vertical gnarl any more
Think about it for a minute. For example a climber has even spaced 30mm hand and footholds on a 45 degree wall and holds of a set size and of equivalent holdability on a vertical wall, for the sake of the example say these are 8mm holds at the same spacing. If you knock 7mm of the size of these holds the steep position will get a fair bit harder to hold, the vertical position will become impossible to hold. You get bigger holds on hard steep problems, therefore you’ve got more slack to play with to make steeper problems harder. That is indisputable. Where is the flaw in my logic?QuoteThe gap between easy and impossible is relatively narrow compared to on steeper ground,
I wouldn't agree with that.
That's because you aren't really registering most of the easy angled rock. I'm talking about all available rock, not just the stuff that's worth climbing on.Take a look around the peak as a whole, or your average boulderfield, there is loads of slabby rock, most of it you'd barely notice as a climber as it's plastered in ledges and heather. Some you can't even see because it's so ledge covered that it's burried under grass.Quoteslab angled rock being probably the commonest of angles.
Or that.
New problems in quarries? South lancs side or peak side of Oldham? Either way, I'm intrigued. Has he done loads of new stuff, or could you could give us a quick run down?
Mid 2007Are they the same venue?? Stallion this is your area isn't it??
Vengeance - a V10/7C+ wall in Huddersfield Road Quarry
2008
The Whack (V10/7c+) - the obvious thin undercut face problem in a quarry off the A640 Huddersfield road
From the details Simon sent me, the Whack is on one of these boulders. (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=oldham&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=13.648906,32.958984&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Oldham,+Lancashire,+United+Kingdom&ll=53.618446,-1.974481&spn=0.003341,0.008047&t=h&z=17)
Rman if this is correct then the discription that is give earlier is wrong.
This is a natural outcrop and not a quarry.
From what I can remember when I looked at this area sometime in 94-96 there was a wall that could have been as the description "Undercut wall (has a cave at the bottom) up the blankness.
I treid but could get no where near doing it so gave up. Plus lots of needles and used condoms to contend with.
Hope this helps the matter but I dont think it does.
T
:jaw: fairly significant me thinks.. a certain blackpooler has repeated Kaizan.. the proper way! effort! 14 v points there!
and nice to see the G's K get a repeat, Sam must be in the premier league now
Jordan did Power Ranger today. :thumbsup:Doesn't sound very injured :-\
Nice work on the van Adam, virtually electromagnetic psychotronic mind control proofed.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3120/3990180222_4be7a87606.jpg)
For that alone you get the
(http://www.city-data.com/forum/attachments/elections/14922d1203442021-obama-illegals-share-same-message-n522306244_197290_3718.jpg)
Jordan did Power Ranger today. :thumbsup:Ste mac redpointed cry freedom and onsighted idefix (8b) same day.(saturday)
Well impressive :great:. The hardest ascent in the UK by a female since the days of Ruth Jenkins???
hasnt karin done another couple 8b's as well?
hasnt karin done another couple 8b's as well?
Stolen is 8a+/b
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/images/Stolen,-Kilnsey-Karin-8b.jpg)
Also done Climb Of The Century but that is supposed to be 8a+?
(http://www.karinmagog.co.uk/Pictures/ClimbOfTheCenturyKarin01.jpg)
The Whack 7C+
heading off on an epic quest to Oldham
I don't flash 7C+, but maybe I was just lucky?
The WhackI remember looking at this problem and thinking the same
It is indeed the thing we looked at, had a feel of the holds and then dismissed as a bit daft and eliminate. It is eliminate, but is actually a rather good problem. Bit of a one move wonder.
This is the problem:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2590/4031490549_d49d2fbbae_m.jpg)
Where's that big medal gone?
Oh just to add The Whack is a standing start. I think I suggested it was a sitter a few posts back, this was wrong. Or if it is a sitter it's about 9a...
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)
Then he did Barracuda (Is this settling at 8b+?)
Ryan has the casting vote I think. I thought it a grade harder than Zeke but it's really hard to tell with these boulder routes. I would have thought with a fast ascent Ryan would think 8b, but he's more than capable of doing 8b+ that fast.
There you go then, it's likely to be 8b.
Good effort Ryan and hardly surprsing he did it so quick. If you're strong enough and you like nasty holds it will go down really quick. I'm really not sure of the grade now as I think most climbers operating at that grade will find it horrendous due to the nature of the climbing.
Zeke is 8b but really right at the bottom of the grade and barracuda is at least at the other end of the spectrum if not a bit further. It's easy to feel very close to it but in reality to be a way off. Hopefully it will see some more repeats by the end of the season.
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick
I knew he was lanky but i didn't know he was a prick
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.
It's Wheel Of Life minus a 7C start. So, very long.
he hardest problems today are either super painful because the holds are so small, or really, really condition dependant... it's not fun anymore... it doesn't really interest me to climb 8C+ or whatever. I think it's difficult to get much further, unless the problems simply get longer, but why not climb a route then instead? On a route, you can have 8A sequences stacked on top of eachother... there's no limit there.
I remember Molunk feeling quite spanny too.
Lancashire's most modest and finest crimper managed to crimp his way up Moffatt's testpiece Evolution earlier today in dismayingly poor conditions! Awesome effort !!
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!
Was sweet!
Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!
Both beasts!
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success. Noticeably a certain German 9a+ climber and 8c boulderer who's spent a lot of time on it over 3 trips and still not done it. 8c?
Incidentally I didn't think it possible that someone could climb this route not climbing 1 single move in the way I have always tried it.
A fantastic effort and the 1st repeat in about 10 years or so. The last person to do it was Steve Mac and it's had some high calibre flung at it since without success.
Peckett did cherry falls yesterday at almscliff, probably the only dry place in england!!
Was sweet!
Mina has done le piller (another 8a) to!
Both beasts!
Didn't Jerry give it F8c+ originally? And it got downgraded to F8c? Or am I getting mixed up with Progress. Cool vid footage.
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.
Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.
Unsurprising awesome despatch from Ryan.
Was chatting to Steve (the only man who knows), about grades specifically at the Tor and Evolution being 8c isn't consistent with the rest of the routes, MIF, the Extentions, StaminaPump etc. - 'only Nick thought it was 8c because he did it quickly and for some reason that opinion stuck'.
Only Nic, the world's most prolific undergrader.
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:
Simpson vs Steck (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2306)
runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award
Coming to a mountain near you soon, runaway winner of '09 Outside-the-box award, its The Big Fight Alpine style:
Simpson vs Steck (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2306)
Mina ticks Fake Pamplemousse at Brione 8a. For me this is amazing and by far the most impressive and probably hardest thing she's done. The other stuff she's done are hard but it didn't surprise me that she'd ticked them having very strong fingers. Stuff like Teamwork and Le Pilier see female ascents evrry winter. This however is pure burl, every move is pretty hard with the crux first move being burly as hell. It was enough to stop Smitton in his tracks when i was there with him. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
What a beast!
Watched Justin someone-or-other (from Lincolnshire, ginger hair & beard. Second name might have something to do with Plum?) do Demon Wall Roof Footless today. Hand in the juggy thing in the roof. Left hand to the lip. Right hand to the crimp. Matched and went. Made it look piss. Was supposed to be unrepeated.
:bow:
BTW DWR with feet is unjustifiable but I can do Pebble Wall again which I haven't done for a while.
Mina is at it again, Habe Die Ehre, 8a. Is it insulting to call her a beast?!
Has this been mentioned yet?
http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
Has this been mentioned yet?
http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
Although I can't work out if it is a repeat or a new line. Alan Cassidy has also just done (another?) 8c.
I heard dark horse Dan Constant Variable did Careless Torque yesterday.
Is this the 4th ascent?
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
World's greatest speech (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6rDeOojFXk#)
Yes, good work men. How many pads are needed? Did anyone get on/do chequers groove?
Would be well keen to get on these, if I get home from work alive today...
Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
bit cold for getting yer balls out!
Yes, good work men. How many pads are needed? Did anyone get on/do chequers groove?
Would be well keen to get on these, if I get home from work alive today...
Pads wise think we had about 7 or 8 but you could def do it with 5 or 6. Mike did chequers a few days before, me and ryan didnt get on it, am keen though. It is a good place to go when all this snow is about but not sure with the melting now.Ryan gave me and mike the kick up the ass we needed to get our balls out and stop being fannies!
bit cold for getting yer balls out!
You'd have loved it matey!
Look at you. Didn't mo work it on a rope first?
or have zero tension. Your right foot stays on nicely!
The 'Quill:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2740/4274751990_0b00693717
.jpg)
Look at you. Didn't mo work it on a rope first?
that he did, till it was wired, he still fell off mind trying to pose for the pics
James Kassidy
James Kassidy
Who?
You mean James Kassay...
What's snapped and which drop knee?
About time brits started ticking some more 9s.
Tom Bolger has just done another 9a, Fuck the System. Thats 2 9a's in 3 days!Beast :great:
http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/ (http://tombolgerclimbing.blogspot.com/)
The word mutant fails to describe this lad.
Mark McQuade made the 3rd ascent of Sanction on Friday.
3rd Scotsman to climb font 8b! Effort! :great:
Just thought of another one - Rodma - what was that thing he did in Hueco?
Hasn't Paul Savage done an 8B at Thirlstane or somewhere?
Paul Sav
Chinese Democracy - Thirlstane - 8a
My Evil Twin - Sandyhills - 8a
Zillion Dollar Sadist - Clifton 8a+
Pretty sure Stuart never climbed 8B. Don't think Cubby did despite being capable. :-\
Cool, thanks for that. In my haste for historical accuracy I forgot to say well done to Mark... 8b is an awesome achievement!
Ondra has repeated Golpe de Estado, 9b.
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.
[ :great: Thought he'd send it today, he was tickling the belay yesterday. Now that t-shirt can finally get washed...
Dan Walker did Unjustified today.
Adam Lincoln ticked Nuclear Transplant at Woodwell yesterday which I think is worth a mention.
Just point him at some slopers, then stand back and laugh :lol:Nearly made me choke on my cheese toastie. :lol:
What you saying about the Ladies of Garstang..Slopers or slappers,he'd still try to crimp them footless ;)
ohh slopers
Alan Cassidy did the Rollito Sharma Extention today (8C). :great:
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.
Effort. Without trying to be a total tw4t, it's a pretty impressive feat to say the least, but how can you ground up a route you have already abseiled down?
Gigantic at Wilton ground up'd today following a clean on abseil, by the illustrious Mr Lincoln. Best style of this route to date i believe.
...is there anything on Lancs grit you can't do ;)
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....
You sound like you're keeping busy too, Miss Price. Is Earl in good nick?Ticking over thanks.
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....
KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....
KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!
:great:
Good stuff Lincoln, made up for ya. Glad the quarries are getting some lapis love....
KP and Josser and all those are getting cleaned next. Lets get to it!
Nice one Adam - spoke to Pete this eve about your beastliness. Good work! Also psyched to hear some stuff is being cleaned up. I'll be coming up that way very soon as there's a load of things I want to do up there. May see you out sometime...
forget queens,it will be one of the coldest darkest places on this earth untill about april/may time :P
Ned's ticklist from Font is worth a mention especially when you consider that it was soaked. Plus 3 8As in a day at Queens........
Ned's ticklist from Font is worth a mention especially when you consider that it was soaked. Plus 3 8As in a day at Queens........Seconded.
That does sound quite interesting, can that list also be viewed by the general public?
Seconded.
might that be because it's fugging hard? ;)
I did the first ascent since the hold breakage of Manchester Dogs today. Its not changed the grade i don't think, probably still V11? :shrug: but you have to use a heel to do the move to flat hold at top now as you can't get a good enough drop knee in anymore.
Oh. thats not a crimp with your left hand is it?
Pete Whittaker repeated Jordans French Duke (E9) the other day.
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?
Because?
PS Maybe a change of user name might be a good idea?
Because?
Nike are notoriously litigous. Any way what about Robert Kilroy Lincoln? :P
Interesting that he chose to use the tensioned sling instead of all the gear in the slot, why was that??
over-caffeinated sugary drink company armband. Nice :lol:
9a in Tenaya shoes... unbelievable!
As Jez Portman once said "They don't impress me much" (but I'm still not giving you a discount).
and he would walk 500 miles, and he would walk 500 more, just to be the man who gets the second ascent of your 9a.
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10 (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/ashima-shiraishi-age-8-power-silence-v10)
eight year old does power of silence in hueco!
The only thing that surprises me about these kids ticking big numbers is that anyone is remotely surprised by it.
+ lighter internal organs
I hear what Stubbs is saying but she's inside that groove
I was expecting her to bridge up it, but she doesn't. Is it as valid as an a eight stone 'man' doing Voyager?
The voice of truth or another jaded pundit who needs to recalibrate his awemeter?Definitely the voice of truth :D
Jesus Christ! What a hero! 8! For fucks sake!!! Amazing.
People look out for (and usually take the standard grade for) problems that suit them all the time. The fact that she's small takes nothing away from her achievement.
Being boosted to the starting holds is just the same as stacking pads to reach them. If they are the holds that everyone else starts from then it seems fair to me.
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology
Yes but they'd be a nats dick either side of the regular morphology in most cases, if you go down to the 10th or 90th percentiles of a given distribution then you're going to see more of an impact. Do I really need to point out how much morphology effects grades on specific case problems or how almost every grading scale has something that it trips up trying to describe in order to back up my (general) point?
Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name. Damn good effort regardless, she's 8 and no doubt a wad. However, I feel people are blind if they think Xa or whatever is a representative grade for climbing a piece of rock regardless of any other variables. It just doesn't make sense and its why I think I personally pay a lot less attention to them than I used to.
Watch the two videos; completely different moves, same problem same name.
yes but..." then that's up to you. I personally think it's fucking impressive, and wish I was good enough to climb that hard at 8 (or 10, or 12, or 14), regardless of how much it suited me.
I think you are underestimating how big a role individual morphology and strengths play in most peoples bouldering. I think it comes significantly into play on the majority of problems for the majority of people, not just the 10th and 90th percentiles.
As a side note, do any lanky bastards ever take reduced grades for Deliverance, or Submergence? Do they fuck!
In this instance, let's not forget that most of us at age 8 probably struggled to lift a one litre bottle of lemonade off the deck. Props to this girl!
You may do moves a different way to Mr Parry or Stu L etc. but they won't be as different as that of a child attempting the same moves as they are the extreme.
... Very reminiscent of Ruth Jenkinson...
Power of Goodbye is very nails for a Hueco V10
Who's in Chorro at the moment? Word in The Cave (Poema) is that a Brit repeated Orujo recently.
Who's in Chorro at the moment? Word in The Cave (Poema) is that a Brit repeated Orujo recently.
Simpson was out there, but don't think he did that...
Very impressive indeed, but it is widely considered as 8b+ to the Spanish and has been for a while since the old harder start was debolted. Either way this is an amazing send.
what a legend! good effort nige. is this the route's first proper one-go, pull on and climb it onsight? (can of worms.....sorry....)
astounding.
is the peg belay at the top of masters still there?
would have been a useful runner??
Hardly worth mentioning really but Steve (the Claw) repeated Ru's 'Seraphim' yesterday after serveral .... er .... minutes of effort.
the ultimate shothole protection perhaps?
T'was on my mate Neal's blog http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/ (http://nmcquaid.blogspot.com/). I believe he'd been out tradding that day with a Brian (aka Smacks?) who I don't know.
I noticed the big spike in traffic to the blog from this post
First I've heard. Was it ground-up?
So it was them who covered it in chalk. That camera is neat though.
Word has reached me that balding Xtreme sport mentalist and ADHD sufferer Paul Reeve has done Unjustified :o
I've been summoned to the Foundry to prostrate myself before his magnificence
(Someone downgrade it please)
First I've heard. Was it ground-up?
Don't know but it looks as if they have some excellent footage of it using the helicam thing http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news (http://basecamp.mammut.ch/en/basecamp-news)
Check out the 2nd shot of someone standing at the top of Masters.
Lama's style on Parthian will decide. Ground-up, they live. Headpoint, they die.
Has he still got that cows udder hanging off his elbow as well? :lol:
Has he still got that cows udder hanging off his elbow as well? :lol:
Yep. It's even turned purple now. Tenacity with a capital T.
Some uber talented wad ticking easy routes on the grit. Hardly newsworthey and not all that impressive. Now Paul Reeve climbing 8c that is seriously impressive and I suspect something a lot would have laughed at thought of for even suggesting in years past. A fantastic effort from the 2nd most motivated climber in the UK (next to Keith S), certainly more impressive than Ste Mac climbing another 9a.
Congratulatipns Paul :great:
Was it with or without pre-placed Mammut visiting-euro-wad-donkey-linestm?
Steady on, just don't want to make out something brilliant has happened when it hasn't...
UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10644) says it has, what do you reckon?
Its bogus. Check the entry for Partheon Shot
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.
She was tied in all the way. Doing the match off the intermediate was pretty dismaying.
The first roof:
Five moves lead to a reach-through from two sloping edges, either footless or with a really high Egyptian. I chose to do it footless and for the first 10 days failed because it was too hot. I reckon this is the hardest section, about 8a boulder.
The dyno:
The move that made the route famous, because it’s spectacular: a complete cut-loose dyno to a hold about two meters higher. It’s difficult mentally and requires good coordination, but easy compared to the previous move. I reckon 7a+ boulder.
The dyno from the monodoigt:
The other hard move: dyno from a left-foot smear and first joint rounded monodoigt to a rounded hold. 8a boulder.
The final roof:
Eight easy moves compared to the rest of the route, but you’re very tired at this point. I told myself that it was impossible to fall from these last moves. This wasn’t the case.
I thought the thing with Hugh was that it was a series of massive dynos and it was said at the time that you needed to be FR size to do the route.
FR is about 5'9.
Video of repeat here (http://www.tvmountain.com/index.php?option=com_hwdvideoshare&task=viewvideo&Itemid=129&video_id=647).
Patter did indeed do it off this hold but remember the hold above (the better one) didn't used to be better. You could only do a 2 finger crimp on the spike as a gaston. Something fell off making it a bigger meaning you can now use 4 fingers and a thumb on the spike.
Pardon my ignorance. Is Hugh artificial?
When Rouhling returned from college in 1993 he was sick of the technical endurance style that had made French sport climbing famous. Tired of using his feet, he sought out — or created — routes at Eaux Claires that didn’t require them. The first was Hugh, a sixty-foot double-overhanging bulge (with the graffito “HUG” painted in four-foot-tall letters at its base). After his first ascent he felt that he had made the route too easy, so he filled in some holds, made others worse, and then climbed the route again, resulting in some incredible dynamic moves — and his most heavy-handed manufacturing job. He rated Hugh 9a (5.14d), at a time when there were two or three other 9a’s in the world.
Oh and I forgot to say chapeau to Stevie, would love to see a vid of his ascent, but I guess it's unlikely he had a camera crew in tow.
Matt Birch did High Fidelity yesterday.
13 year old Randy roby climbed raindogs other day. He should have done it while he was still 12. Youngest 8a ascent in uk?
Coincidentally, Toru the Japanese beast was also down that way recently at the BMC meet. I think he was on pretty fine form, although nothing ridiculous as far as I know. Some great photos on Alex Ekins's photo gallery if you want to check out some really inspiring pics of Cornish granite.
The route Toru soloed at Sennen was "Hell hath no fear" E7 6c its the rounded arete below and to the right, of the Gillian and Golva wall.
It was my first visit to Sennen and I don't generally trad climb so much
Even if you don't trad climb much you should be puntered for that! Top spot. Nice swell magnet (but often crowded because of it)next door.
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473) :-\ :spank: Must be a slow news week.
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473) :-\ :spank: Must be a slow news week.
The thread on t'other channel is causing UKC alot of flak ;D many posts of shit journalism etc...
EVEN, Sloper has been blamed for the (possible/probably) hoax! :-\
Vague details of IF soloed (apparently) (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=53473) :-\ :spank: Must be a slow news week.
The thread on t'other channel is causing UKC alot of flak ;D many posts of shit journalism etc...
EVEN, Sloper has been blamed for the (possible/probably) hoax! :-\
I'm genuinely offended by that, if it was down to me and it wasn't, the hoax would have been a bit more credible. The fact that they ran the article at all marks a low point for what is fast becoming the climbing equivilant of the Daily Star.
The only hope I have for cockfax is that they get stung in a fingerprint IP action.
Apparently Si O'Connor nipped in for a quick repeat and confirmed the grade.
Caley Crag
Confessions of a Specimen Hunter 7a (V6)
A left-to-right traverse of the right hand edge of the boulder. Sit-start on slopers, gain the pocket on the face, and continue along the face to a large hole and the end.
And this is significant why? is he 3ft6? has crab claws for hands perhaps?What you saying, Andy Harris pisses 7a, hardly newsworthy.
another fast repeat of the lush "Confessions of a specimen hunter" at caley, this time by Adam Clarke.
let's have a web site called big cocks on rock, for all you significant, pushing the grade boys!
let's have a web site called big cocks on rock, for all you significant, pushing the grade boys!
please lets not have more, whats been mentioned and power club are pretty much all i can take
Carlo Traversi just sent Jade, 6th ascent
Cool pic
note to self. not done rings for 2 yrs. not touched kettlebell for one yr. didn't try danny's a lot. people's perceptions never fail to amaze me :thumbsup:Is it 7 days of deadhangs + 2 sauna sessions with the latest Mrs Dense these days??
Not as significant, but he did Lost For Life V12
Not as significant, but he did Lost For Life V12
Its is kinda significant as he is the first person to top it out. Everyone else has bailed from the jug. That boy likes to highball!
Good to hear Pringle is back in the game after knacking his shoulder up.
Can't sleep; contemplating the day's events on cloggy.
bloody hell, that's pretty big news. I thought he'd deemed it unjustifiable?
why he wasn't inside drawing on computer paper I'll never know.
Ballsy effort going for that with the threat of rain hanging in the air. It was absolutely torrential yesterday when it did come in.
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.
Thats cos its not that hard compared to the current crop of cutting edge trad routes. For its time it is an amazing route but if you read most the threads on UKC about it you'd think it was still one of the hardest. Its so famous because it was the first E9 and its an iconic route climbed by an iconic climber. Nice effort Dave!...you forgot to add..'and it goes up one of the most iconic slabs of rock
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.
The first part of that blog was all a little ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.
The first part of that blog was all a little ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.
ditto. i reckon he strongly implied that he thinks EW is at least E11 and probably E12, given he thinks it's pretty dangerous.
The first part of that blog was all a little ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.
I disagree Paul. I'm no cheerleader for Dave Mac but I thought his IF blog post gently punctured the balloon of hype/mystique surrounding the route rather than popping it loudly and making everyone jump. This was in stark contrast to the 'My elbows were fucked so I went to Devon to downgrade Walk of Life' from last year...
Though I did feel he was bigging up his Echo Wall route a little
QuoteThough I did feel he was bigging up his Echo Wall route a little
Seems fair enough, it being britain's hardest route n'all. Must be galling to find Indian Face three grades easier and then have the punters wailing about the biggest feat of the last ten years.
The first part of that blog was all a little ::) with just how "un-bothered" he was by all of it.
Perhaps one of the reasons it went unrepeated following Gresham/Dixon is that when Leo onsighted Master's not long after ('96?), the game changed and the onsight seemed like a real possibility. There was certainly hype about this prospect at the time.
It was a bit later though, '98/'99 maybe.Not sure - wasn't he 16 at the time? Think it was in the first OTE I ever bought (the one with Bent Spoon footless on El Poussah on cover) so left an impression. Cracking stuff.
I can't believe no-one has been geeky enough to spot that in the film where he originally tries it, he's wearing a pair of Scarpa Magos! FFS, I'm not surprised his toes were kiilin him - they're a very stiff, turned down boot designed for high-end sport climbing, not trad shufflin. Climbing anything less than 30 degrees overhanging in those babies means instant excruiating pain. Total punter on footwear choice!
good effort on the classic tick tho ::)
If he was 16 then it would have been. In fact, just dug the El Poussah OTE off the shelf and there it is - Oct '96 issue. Other highlights include Crimping Arthur Harris at Rubicon and the Grimer/ Jerry naked article...
You're bang on, although the shoe he's wearing is the Stix slip on. They're very down toed and rubbish for slabs, although they are great on edges.
Consider that a good thing...
Here are mrjonathanr's pics of Johnny on the FA of IF, anyone work out what shoes he's wearingThose piccies are great Slackers.
... i think they were Lince 2s.I think you're right!
When i lived in Rundle Road for some reason there was a bag of Johnny's boots - tiny little Ballets and Ninjas plus the said Lince 2s. I think they all went in the bin ???:o
Anybody elses neck hairs just stood up looking at them pics or is it just me.
Calma Linces, they even sound shit.
Anyone else impressed by the metamorphosis of Indian Face, from steep slab to overhanging wall? More impressive is the rate of change, as it definitely looked like a steep slab when I was up there just 2 days previously...:thumbsup:
;)
Let us not forget Redhead questing off up here in EBs nearly 30 years ago. Dodgy shoes are part of the history of the route.
I know this won't appeal to many, but I'm impressed by Paul Smitton repeating Dalliance at Kilnsey - I don't think it's had many ascents with the true finish, and I think he's been trying it a fair bit. Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone? :thumbsup:
Hardest ascent so far this year in Yakshir anyone? :thumbsup:
Apart from Ondra rampage ;)
Are we ruling the jocks out too?Give me science Roberto. Numbers please.
I refuse to believe Malcolm hasn't ticked an 8c down here this year.
Am I missing a bigger picture though?I think the numbers sum it up nicely (not the grades, the ascentionists) - You can easily argue the 8c got so many ascents because of its grade and its quality, whilst the 8b+? Who else has done it exactly? Grades are supposed to be from consensus. The hardest ascent isn't necessarily the one with the biggest numbers.
With tag team ascents of Unjustified, Is there a suggestion that hard 8b+ is harder than soft 8c?
That's odd as I always thought Dalliance was supposed to be quite soft for 8b+? Just from what people (inc. Pego) said back in the day like. Didn't realise it hadn't had many ascents.
:-\
Praise the Lord! Top end since loss of holds at top
@uptown
When did I ever say dr crimp was harder than dalliance?
Seems a bit weird that Dalliance still gets done by the original method. I've only dogged up it once, but I was given beta by Gaz Parry for a new method that he and Mcclure did at the top. It was a really nice sequence that involved getting the big sticky out crimp with your left hand rather than right, then pulling rightwards to finish using an obvious undercut. From what I remember, I think they said it was more like F8b that way. The crux was definitely the lower boulder problem to the break using that method.
Oh Adam, I was only doing a friendly bait on you.
The OP question was whether anyone had climbed harder than Dalliance this year in the shur, you mentioned Dr. Crimp, it's not.
so you should be you illiterate cvnt.:lol:
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.Duh already created a new thread.
Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight
Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Not really significant, but then it doesn't deserve its own thread.Duh already created a new thread.
Few more Ondra ticks.
Waddage - Onsight
Revelations - RP
Toilet - Onsight
Tried Mutation. Close it seems.
Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!
Revelations - RP
Surely this is the nail in the coffin for the argument that this is 8a+!
Revelations - RP
I'd imagine he'd take whatever the book told him it was.
in the old days it was probably a 7b/+ boulder start as opposed to a 7c/+ if my memory serves. or my fingers were stronger? actually i don't know, went on it after long trip to buoux so was good on half crimped pockets at the time.
this was probably '91?
If so could someone point him at mecca for the onsight?
Charlotte Durif has onsighted an 8c...
The big crag to the right is Hortus, where there's nothing above 8a.
Daniel Woods and Phillip Schaal are in the Grampians at the moment so i expect there'll be some significant repeats soon. :
Daniel Woods and Phillip Schaal are in the Grampians at the moment so i expect there'll be some significant repeats soon. :
They may be having some problems with the weather. We're having the wettest winter in over a decade down here and Western Victoria has been getting the full brunt of it! Relative humidity has barely dropped below 97% in many places (including the Grampians) for three weeks now!
True North got another ascent last week. Richard Waterton this time. Effort, considering wetness on Full Tilt.Well done Richard. Now Gangle, come on!!!
Paul Robinson (under fed US wad, not Neighbours bad guy) has repeated Big Fred's 'Monkey Wedding' in Rocklands. He also suggested 8c rather than 8b+ as originally graded.
BuouxDolomites 8c has had a decent summer (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=40):
Soloed The Brandler-Hasse in 1 hour 37 mins
Redpointed the crux pitches of Pan Aroma
Got into Cambridge
Not bad for an alpinist!
However, I am not a man that can cope with constant failing (dos any such man exist?), so I allowed myself the occasional ´success´ of attempting routes more suited to my style - steep and physically demanding – and at the same time, ticking off classics like Lourdes 8a, and unnamed 8c at La Murla, Spain (see pic), and falling from pretty much the last move (can you grab the chain on this one?) on Unjustified, 8B+, on my second try – i´ll hopefully get back soon to finish it off!
However, I am not a man that can cope with constant failing (dos any such man exist?), so I allowed myself the occasional ´success´ of attempting routes more suited to my style - steep and physically demanding – and at the same time, ticking off classics like Lourdes 8a, and unnamed 8c at La Murla, Spain (see pic), and falling from pretty much the last move (can you grab the chain on this one?) on Unjustified, 8B+, on my second try – i´ll hopefully get back soon to finish it off![/quote]
as well as a bolt blowing off one day last week!
David Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.
Quote from: LincolnDavid Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.
Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?
I'm sure there's another :whistle:
not the first time some very hard stuff has not been done not using chalk either.
These people are absolute wads - respect!!!!!
whats the roll call for adams ascents now then?
Fastest ascent of an E10?
keenus didn't hang around on Equilibrium?
Quote from: LincolnDavid Mason did Pools Of Bethesda in't pass yesterday.
Beast!! How many ascents has this had now?
Higg
Malc
Simpson
Danny C
Pete R
Nodder
Mason
Think thats it?
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................ ::)
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................ ::)
just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\
Fastest ascent of an E10?
Pretty Sure Ned did it on the 9th Sep, same days as Mr Fantastic as well! Beast!
Hmmmm, the anonymous beast strikes again................ ::)
just because he pipped you to the second ascent of catapult :-\
:'(
Dave Mason repeated New Noise at Tan Y Grisiau yesterday. I thought this significant as a number of strong folk have tried this problem, and not managed to get both feet off the ground.
Also, it was a fair few years ago that I did this, so good effort for the repeat visit to get this done. Dave did it the original way, but there was others around which lead to the discover of another undercut, which faces in a more desirable direction (not seen this before). I think it got done with the new hold, and it makes it more like 8a.
You can always trust the youths to find an easier sequence - I'd rather the power ( ;)).
Good effort guys!
Fastest ascent of an E10?
What's an E10?
:whistle:
Fastest ascent of an E10?
Correct but then they are a fair hypothetical estimate of what it would be like to trad climb such trad climbs in a trad manner, in the context of a system which is extrapolated from the bulk of trad climbs done in a trad manner...
Admittedly it will be a happy day when onsighting is the default for top-end trad repeats as well as standard ones.
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).Din't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions? Also I think I read James Pearson went up there with Steve and did all the moves on top rope really quickly and got demotivate by how easy it was to escape.
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave
Yes I was waiting for that, I dont think Steve did the same route/exit as Dave
Steve gave that suggestion short shrift though. It boiled down to him going for the same hold but with the left instead of right hand (or the other way around I can't remember exactly) which, to my mind, starts to look like Dave just used a slightly duff sequence! :-\
me really want to see someone have a go at his climbs such as echo wall etc (seems unlikely).Didn't Steve McClure do Rhapsody in 3 sessions?
Leo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged
QuoteLeo Moger and Rich Sharpe were the other two that repeated New Noise. Rich isn't sure how the new hold can make much difference as it is smaller, sharper and he's never climbed 8a before in 3 tries, or climbed 8a.... Logged
In the intrest of concensus what grade did they think it might be then?
Word on the Street is that the car lifting crusher from Blackpool repeated 'At the heart of it all' a few weeks back.
has this been reported ?
impressive makes it look like a path
Cracking effort but you've lost the plot a bit if you go to Rodellar and end up in the Alibaba cave..
*Possibly New Noise. I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there
where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.
Fucking hell, that's shocking. :spank:
*Possibly New Noise. I've not looked at this, but from asking around others who have tried, there
where only two undercuts, and no other obvious choice.
the hold on new noise definately wasn't an obvious choice, dave mason didn't spot it either on the same day as Leo found it, it actually feels worse than the other hold and to me almost felt like it was useless (untill you actually pulled on maybee no one thought it was usable as it is alot smaller, especially when there is a bigger more obvious hold to use) it also felt and looked like it's been there for a long time but I could be completely wrong.
He looks like a guy we met in Mello in May.
if the dyno start hold is the one by his feet, hand hold to hand hold that must be about 8 feet.(240cm). pretty mahoosive
Is this the second ascent? (Neil Carsons ascent?)
is this the first flash of an E9?
Tim Palmer did Keen Roof today. Took him two sessions. :bow:
http://vimeo.com/14506636
Southern Belle by Stanhope and Honnold http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle (http://rockandice.com/news/1227-honnold-and-stanhope-send-half-domes-spooky-southern-belle) sounds absolutely terrifying some more info on the route here http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html)
(Off Topic - Rich Simpson seems to have disappeared from their team)
No mention of a Skin and Wishbones flash? News being held back for the mags p'raps? Only heard this second hand but if true, it must be one of the hardest flashes ont grit, no?
What's Skin and Wishbones??
Who, when? Impressive indeed. Presumably not being confused with Ryan's recent flash of Paralogism?
(http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/img/pixel.gif)
By who? Up there with Barrans flash of Groove is in the heart.
My sequence was much easier than Mike’s (i did the moves on mikes sequence and i’d have definitely given it 8A+ if i’d used that) That said the boulder is generally exholdiating so i can see this problem changing grades alot if it gets lots of attention over coming years. For the sequence i used (will put a video up when i get a decent connection) i’d feel bad taking more than 7C+ for it.
I think Bransby's mum was belaying him too. Legend.
http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html (http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/2010/11/young.html)That looks properly good.
That looks incredible! Good effort!
Best peice of rock in gods county and therfore the world.:bow:
Waddage to Dai, Tommy, and Pete. Do you know if they fell off at all? Surely landing on their heads would've knocked some sense into them.
The fact that we can still be excited by on-site/ground-up ascents of these routes nearly a quarter of a century after they were first climbed is a true testament.
Pete then flashed Crocs at Ramshaw :o
Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker both SOLO'd Ray's Roof today :jaw:
Pete then flashed Crocs at Ramshaw :o
Pete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches
QuotePete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches
Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.
QuotePete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches
Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?
That you and Andi are the new Colin FFord and Gary Cooper. ;D
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.
For what its worth, I thought it probably deserved the 8
Pete Robins E7. A few people with direct experience of it thought E8. Still, it's Curbar.
For what its worth, I thought it probably deserved the 8
Andy, I can clearly remember your spectacular barn door of the last hard move well above the RP, and wondering how far I'd have to run to take in enough rope. Happy days!
QuotePete bridgewood from leek did the possible 2nd ascent of k.p nuts at the roaches
Woooahhh, big news! Any more details?
he's been wanting it for a while now,he was going to head down to ready brek after.he's very close to that.
wont be the last time you will read his name.he has got a younger brother who's as strong as fuck as well.
me and the dick with 2 dogs were at newstones so missed the action but the carrier pigeon soon reached us
Indeed! My clearest memory of the day is that just as I finished squeaking my boots Neil Foster and Glenn Sutcliffe walked round from under Prophet. It must have been immediately obvious what I was about to try. I distinctly remember saying 'You two can fuck right off!' and they duly obliged - I definitely didn't want an audience.
That you and Andi are the new Colin FFord and Gary Cooper. ;D
Grimer, you bastard, that is some mantle to have to carry.
I guess that many of you will now know that Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall soloed Ray's Roof last weekend (Pete did it twice)
Here is a link to Pete and Tom writing about their ascent - http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/2010/11/pete-whittaker-and-tom-randall-talk-about-soloing-rays-roof/)
Cheers
Alex
Wow, he must have been wearing a headtorch!
Charlie Woodburn has just repeated Walk Of Life.
Micky did From Dirt Grows the Flowers yesterday, just before the snow came! Impecable timing!
From the Dirt Grows the Flowers 8C. This problem is in Chironico. It starts with an 8B crimping sequence through some slippery crystals and leads to a hard 8A+ mantle.
8A+ mantle?!
8A+ mantle?!
8A+ mantle?!
Mina's done Franks Wild Years at Cresciano. Dunno if it still gets 8a+ or just 8a, but its BURLY. Nice one, pet!Waddage
hardest mantles i can think of offhand, victorian overmantle 7c/+? and fight club in bishop v11.
DTR has also done General Disarray, 3 8b's in one trip! :dance1:
I can't call myself an expert in grading boulder problems since I am mostly sport climber, but it felt simply harder than any 8B+ I had done.Even though he's done as much hard bouldering as anyone else!
TG if you want to post a photo you'll have to upload it to Flickr or photobucket, etc. first, or maybe link it from your mobileMe gallery if you're a Mac user.Quote from: OndraWadI can't call myself an expert in grading boulder problems since I am mostly sport climber, but it felt simply harder than any 8B+ I had done.Even though he's done as much hard bouldering as anyone else!
hardest mantles i can think of offhand, victorian overmantle 7c/+? and fight club in bishop v11.
Just about every single problem I do in font?
:off:
you may be interested in knowing (but you may not...) that "from dirt..." is a quote from a famous italian song by Fabrizio De André, whose last line says "dai diamanti non nasce niente, dal letame nascono i fiori": "from diamonds nothing grows, from dirt grow flowers".
true poetry in my opinion.
as amusing as it is to some people calling dave "dave the racist" isn't particularly funny on a website that is read the world over. people could leap to conclusions, and he does climb in a lot of places.
nice one dave
Mick did BIG Paw yesterday! A happy Geordie!!
Adams is no geordie.
Adams is no geordie.
P Whitty has flashed The Power of the Dark Side at the upper matlock quarries, more here.
http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash (http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10811-e8-flash)
big cahones indeed and a fine effort.
Hazel Findlay has done the Bachar-Yerian (http://willstanhope.blogspot.com/), alternating leads with Will Stanhope. Female ascentionists of the B-Y must be a pretty select club.
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.
Look at em now eh!
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.
Sounds like Hazel might be the first female ascentionist.
Obviously I have no idea how accurate this is, but the Rock & Ice magazine at work, from Dec '97 claims on the contents page "Lynn Hill does Bachar-Yerian", then goes on later in the mag to say she "led the key second and third pitches...". it doesn't go into any more detail than that.
Mick (Page not Paige) did do Big Paw, sure I put it on here. He also repeated Entlinge today!
High Fidelity got a repeaty today at Caley - not sure who the climber was, but there were some very vocal celebrations...
shut down on voyager then
Is he coming to Wales, or is he another one that thinks Stanage is the UK (I take it we are talking about the same Paul Robinson)?
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.
Imagine if him, Woods and DG had an extended trip like the other Team America did, would be interesting.
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back ...
DG did have quite an extended stay in Sheff a year or two back and didn't manage The Ace despite a fair amount of effort. To be fair I have heard mutterings that the LH sloper/crimp has eroded a bit and is now better than it used to be and DG would have been trying it before the change.
I was never less than about 10 1/2 stone when climbing at my best and I neverdietedtook copious amounts of drugs to keep my weight down. So ner.
I know a tree can't fall over in a wood in the Peak without someone taking some video of it!
I've got some pics of The Ace, but I'll probably whore them round the mags first.
Are Robinson's ascents actually classed as valid though? He looks as if he weighs less than Bennett and surely that's just cheating?
He'd run up silk cut but id like to know what he thought of gaskins pill box problem.
He'd run up silk cut but id like to know what he thought of gaskins pill box problem.Has that problem been repeated by anyone yet?
you think he'd find it that easy? thats impressive if so!
you think he'd find it that easy? thats impressive if so!Yes but he's probably top 3 In the world right now.Tyler didn't have much joy on pill box problem and he wasn't too shabby.
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A karma 8A,8A+ Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A karma 8A,8A+ Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow
i'll never see snowy days in the same way adter this ;D :lol:
10/12/08 Banana Fingers Peak District / Burbage Shit, limestone is for gays.
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A karma 8A,8A+ Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow
funny thing is we have had no snow all year :)
Writing the date back to front is one of the many things that 8a.nu gets wrong.
dont no were this should go, but I thought it pretty funny you can find it on 8a.nu
Jacob Peacock 11/01/06 8A karma 8A,8A+ Fontainebleau Soft didn't top out, due to snow
Awesome, does that mean i can tick Fata Morgana then Neil? :beer2: :dance1:
i see paul robinson has just turned the fata block into a pile of dust
not banned yet, you will get:)turned awayscared, very scared, as you drive past all the gun totting hunters and their aggressive looking dogs on hunting days mind, better get out and crush