Watched this yesterday and thought it would be good to have a thread with training videos for ideas and psyche.
All good stuff :2thumbsup: though her definition of frenchies is different to mine
What do you call Frenchies? That's what I'd thought of them as, not that I ever do them.
how to teach your dog to walk past looking cute just before you go for the crux
how to teach your dog to walk past looking cute just before you go for the crux
Is this a good thing?
If I get another dog it's going to be a big one called 'Spot' and trained accordingly
By that logic you should have called your current dog 'Lemming'.
Just add a link to Nib's vimeo page....
(sorry I'm at work and can't access vimeo)
Where can one purchase those round ball-style rock rings shown in the first video? Would love a pair like that! :)
Sean McColl Training Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0vOH_XGWFU#ws)Uses thumb in bolt hole during circuits, don't trust it.
I can't even begin to imagine the sort of beating one would receive if they tried to make the same video at a uk playpark
Cool training vid:
Pareti Sport Center - Training Zone on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/58841105)
The original video of the thread makes me want to put up 20kg of muscles and then go around breaking stick insect climbers in two.Sorry I am an idiot. I was referring to the "climber and bodybuilder" video.
They should stop making videos featuring very young climbers like him o Ashima doing campusing.
We all know it can be very dangerous before full bone developement.
They should stop making videos featuring very young climbers like him o Ashima doing campusing.
We all know it can be very dangerous before full bone developement.
Jan Hojer Training on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66473915)
Don't be silly.Jan Hojer Training on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66473915)
I think the key question here is "Is yellow roof problem harder than Hubble problem (with a start and finish)"
Seeing him do 1-9 made me realize just how tall he is and how long his arms are :jaw:
Talk about sweet monkey arms - I'm jealous. His left hand is just a little above his waist when he hits 9, mine is at full extension to do the same. He's got at least 16-18 inches of reach on me in just his arms. That's insane. I mean I know I'm not tall, but I'm not short either.....
Jan Hojer Training on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66473915)
I think the key question here is "Is yellow roof problem harder than Hubble problem (with a start and finish)"
Seeing him do 1-9 made me realize just how tall he is and how long his arms are :jaw:
Talk about sweet monkey arms - I'm jealous. His left hand is just a little above his waist when he hits 9, mine is at full extension to do the same. He's got at least 16-18 inches of reach on me in just his arms. That's insane. I mean I know I'm not tall, but I'm not short either.....
Then I thought about the fact that he is that tall and can do those crazy front levers, then I quit thinking about it becasue I was overwhelmed, and could only mutter incoherently about his insane reach.........
Brilliant. Absolutely loving this.
This is what training should be like, raw power. Cant remember Ben, Jerry and Malc ever suffering outside from not doing any technical training. And Leachy was no slouch either despite not knowing what the things on the end of his legs were.
Even better that he just ticked off loads of out door stuff and won a WC comp.
Too right. Experienced climbers know how to climb, its physical attributes that are going to get them up harder stuff.
Too right. Experienced climbers know how to climb, its physical attributes that are going to get them up harder stuff.
I recall doing a karate class with legendary hard man Terry O'Neill years ago. He was a 5th Dan at the time, and said he had started weight training because he felt he had got as far as perfecting technique was going to get him. He said we shouldn't, because we had no technique to speak of yet and should be focusing on that. Makes sense for climbing too I think: learn to climb first then get stronger. I'm still firmly in Phase One.
Campus Board Training Sessions Part II (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmROhnOLjL4#ws)
Yes, that's terrible indeed. It has all the cliches: rearview mirror, bag in the boot, open the door and get out, lots of advertising, etc etc.
Plus, and this is unforgiveable to me, some very very average campusing.
I'm guessing he's doing it because he's hanging ridiculuous weightThat's not much I think, and so it's even worse.
"To strengthen fingers you can do pull-ups on a finger board, for power endurance you can do more......"
Revelatory.
http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877 (http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877)and part the second....
I have to say, I disagree with the bit in the first video about avoiding using good technique. Avoiding using good technique like drop knees when they're the easiest way to climb a move is just teaching yourself to be shit at climbing IMO. I see the point, but if you want a move to be basic then just set a move that can't be tricked - eliminate the foothold you can dropknee off or use all worse feet or whatever, don't just climb the move with a shit method and engrain that shit method into your climbing style.
EDIT: just actually watched it properly rather than listened to it whilst looking at something else. seems like they're more going with what I'm saying anyway...
Since indoor footholds are a bit blobby you're able to do more egyptianing even on tiny feet than outside , so it makes sense that if you are training for the outdoors rather than sending on plastic, the stuff pointed out in the video could be a way to train that kind of strength and technique.
http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877 (http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877)Great vid :thumbsup:
When did you last see someone do a drop knee on a hard indoor bouldering problem? Most indoor problems are long pulls on gigantic (relative to outdoors) holds. Dropping the knee limits the reach so just about the only time I see people do this indoor are on stamina circuits or on the lead wall.
That's how I set my board: you can't do any of those tricks that help you climb a problem.
unless you're well into flashing stuff, but knowing instinctively when to drop your knee or bust out a heel is pretty damn useful for onsighting and doing routes quickly.That's what I was going to say, luckily I re-read your post.
Coincidently; Ms Coxsey and Mr Web-Parsons have been known to have reasonable lay-offs caused by finger injuries.
I have noticed that the only training video i have seen so far with an almost acceptable warm-up, belonged to the Spanish climber.
Also, Paxti said in one interview 'i don;t do anything special to warm up'.
Apologies if it's been posted before:Wow, those Eva Lopez edges look spectacularly horrible. Great sales pitch for not touching those boards with a very long clipstick.
Taking Climbing Training To The Max....with Wild Country Spanish team climber Jairo Pandiella on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61300035)
Wish i had a garage like that !
http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877 (http://vimeo.com/groups/iloveclimbing/videos/67873877)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=589sKabpWwk
I think this is a total classic training vid, for those that haven't seen it.
https://vimeo.com/m/5126177
LT11 Live Training Q&A (Recorded)
LT11.tv Live Show • Training Q&A with Kris Peters! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myldFDAfD-E#ws)
LT11 Live Training Q&A (Recorded)
LT11.tv Live Show • Training Q&A with Kris Peters! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myldFDAfD-E#ws)
:wall:
nice little vid. my fingers would be bloodied stumps trying to use rungs that big!
CLIMBING TRAINING: Tazio Il Biondo's tribute to Wolfgang Güllich (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liU4kJ-xlhI#)Code: [Select][size=2pt]I anticipate comments about the size of rungs[/size]
LT11 did a live stream of a daniel woods training session earlier this eve:
I've not finished watching it so apologies if it turns out to be tosh. h/t to Baldy for the link.
Edit: 23min to 53min seems weirdly slo mo and unwatchable.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=277278115759258 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=277278115759258)
reverse campusing
Steven Jeffery was an animal. That footage is in "The high life" video, would be nice to get hold of it. Very old school.
He had a fun rest day in Font, IIRC.
for Nibs: i bet that if you just eat a big green salad with one teaspoon of dressing and 30 grams of bread you won't put up any beef no matter how many low intensity reps you do ;DNo meat and low intensity effort ain't never going to happen never no never. ;D
I thought all Italian training facilities except Nibs' living room were supposed to be crap? According to Nibs. Doesn't appear to be the case from this video.;D
Those jumps and sideways dynos are a perfect way to injure even the fittest youth.
^Was just about to post this. Great little vid.
Loving the LED thing. Talked about this idea years ago, great to see some one do it.Time - alot
How much did it cost him and how does it work.
the next step is to be able to program the input pad so that we can just enter a grade and it will randomly select a problem at that grade :)
Salve Tutti. Here's an Italian orthopaedic surgeon talking....
I have always been much better open handed than crimped to the point where I hardly ever crimp a hold and cant hold things crimped that i can easily hold open handed. i am convinced this must be a muscular thing and therefore i need to train it by crimping as doing things half crimped or open just does not work as i just get stronger in those positions.
Has anyone else done this?
I think that, in fact, the best environment to train the full crimp is precisely the fingerboard, on which you can slowly put pressure on the fingers, choose an even hold, etc.
the second part will raise even more eyebrows... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p-pNCrHul8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p-pNCrHul8)
i find, though, that his very cautious advice is generally good for those who are relatively new to climbing and fingerbparding/campus, which in some venues are the majority of campus and fingerboard users!!!
(really: in one gym next to paris for instance, the average campus boarder is at best barely able to do 1-3-5 on closer-than-standard jug rungs, always unable to do 1-2-3 on standard 1.5 pad rungs, and does so with horrible form and very poor coordination)
also : nibs, the priority for most of them is learning that the open-hand and half crimp grips exists, and generally speaking how to properly put their fingers around the holds. Teaching beginners i see a lot of "natural born squeezers/crimpers" and very few natural "wide-pinchers" and open-handers.
it is also not true, imho, that open-handing always puts zero stress on the pulleys and as a result doesn't reinforce (nor damage) them. I know people who completed a partial pulley tear while pulling a two finger pocket...
i agree that controlled crimping on a fingerboard is a good idea, but mostly for the advanced group: those who already have a fair amount of training experience, who open-hand whenever possible, and need to be ready for the occasional nasty crimp.
the videos above seem clearly not aimed at this group.
what i do not like is how some things are left untold.
In the last bit there is an interesting discussion about strenghtening muscle vs other tissues. But instead of suggesting that one should not attempt high intensity/low volume without a proper low intensity/high volume base, we are left with the impression that any proper strenght training is plain stupidity and a sure path to injury.
I don't see why moderate loads will produce the same adaption as high loads.Heghisino should motivate and clarify.
Very clear, and no doubt very useful for people who train at odd times and/or own their own climbing walls. I’m not sure how I would go about putting it into practice at a public wall on a weekday evenng.
Not exactly climbing training but very useful to do some sort of exercises / stretches to correct a gorilla-like posture
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oLwTC-lAJws
Why were they all wearing camo body armour sized for a toddler?