UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: ben87 on May 29, 2010, 11:50:44 pm
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Anyone had any experience of these? Currently debating between the Mago http://www.rockrun.com/products/Mago.html (http://www.rockrun.com/products/Mago.html) or the Dragon's.
I do alot of grit bouldering and since my verdes bagged out massively over the scorching weekend I need something with good heel and toe rubber for steeper problems. Are these good contenders or are they designed for completely different things??
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Personally 5.10 rubber hits the spot. But if it doesn't fit then its going to be shit.
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If the Mago fit's anything like the Stix then it's gonna be good. Very good.
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So I'm right in thinking they'll both provide plenty of stickiness on all my favorite roof problems and horizontal projects?
I tried the boosters but got the size all wrong, ending with an empty heel. But I do have the square hobbit feet mentioned here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14028.msg254812.html#msg254812 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14028.msg254812.html#msg254812) .
As long as they'll perform the same on steep ground i'll go for the comfiest ;D.
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Mine fit about the same as the stix if not better because you can adjust them more.
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I've had a couple of pairs of Mago's. They are good on steep lime, but they are stiff and stay stiff without much 'feel', probably due to the plastic insert of whatever they have. The heel is good. I've switched back to 5.10 (blanco) for lime as I didn't get much 'feedback' from the Magos and don't actually find them that nice to climb in. They do wear well though. I've used the Mago on Grit, but I've also recently realised that Stealth C4 (on the Blancos, but not on 5.10 Velcros) seems to be significantly stickier on grit than Onxy. As to the Dragons, the heel is too shallow for me. Ppl seem to like the Sportiva Miura Velcro...
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Well I've found that if I were to wear dragons I need to find a surgeon who is willing to remove my little toe for me :thumbsdown:
I didn't get to try on the mago's but I tried the instinct, which are a VERY nice shoe, just slightly empty in the heel (STILL!).
Maybe time to break the bank and buy solutions...
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I didnt see one on the new mago's.
Does anyone have info with regards to sizing? For example, I found the new (V2) Stix to be slightly bigger than the old one. Does the same hold for the new (2018) Mago? Or is it similar to the old Mago?