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the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: JamieG on March 01, 2022, 07:39:07 pm

Title: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: JamieG on March 01, 2022, 07:39:07 pm: Met a nice lad out at Wimberry today and he did what is probably a first ascent on the fish boulder. Start as for dark matter but then head left to the arete/nose, and top around the end. Said I'd stick it up here for him, since I don't think he has a UKB account. Looked like a really cool problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjIzt_wXS7g
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: highrepute on March 03, 2022, 03:11:25 pm: Nice. Looks good.
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: JamieG on March 03, 2022, 06:38:31 pm: Yeah it looks like it climbs really nicely. Could be hard if you’re short. He looked quite stretched out at a couple points and he was fairly tall.
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: Kingy on November 27, 2022, 08:43:38 pm: Did what I think may be the 2nd ascent of Quentessence today. Great addition from Ollie and grade confirmed. The moves out left defo add burl and its a grade harder than Dark Matter I reckon. I added a direct finish which I have named 'Quentessence RH' which is a grade easier as it skips the finish out left but still does the crux starting moves. Here are both probs:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=dk6ZclMPRAg&t=116s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dk6ZclMPRAg&t=116s)
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: edshakey on November 27, 2022, 08:59:47 pm: Quote from: Kingy on November 27, 2022, 08:43:38 pm
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dk6ZclMPRAg&t=116s (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dk6ZclMPRAg&t=116s)

[Peak][Inside a jet engine][Quintessence][7c+]
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: dunnyg on November 27, 2022, 09:05:05 pm: Nice! Were the rest of the boulders dry? Thinking of a trip this week.
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: Kingy on November 27, 2022, 09:13:15 pm: Cheers, the Fish boulder was fine. There were folk on the Sugar Loaf but some of the other boulders were looking green e.g. Miles' Slab looked unclimable and covered in green slime. I'm sure the dry forecast we have this week will freshen things up.
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: dunnyg on November 27, 2022, 09:49:37 pm: Grand! Cheers
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: Fiend on November 27, 2022, 10:07:25 pm: It's a scenic boulder, that. Also get a brighter t-shirt Ted!
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: MischaHY on November 28, 2022, 08:15:02 am: Quote from: Kingy on November 27, 2022, 08:43:38 pm
I added a direct finish which I have named 'Quentessence RH' which is a grade easier as it skips the finish out left but still does the crux starting moves.

Nice one Ted although surely your version should be 'Quent-isn't' ;D
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: Kingy on November 28, 2022, 04:43:19 pm: Haha, good call, curious how the direct is easier than the original, never fear the moves to the arete are too good to miss....
Title: Re: [Peak][Wimberry][Quintessence][7c+]
Post by: JamieG on November 28, 2022, 07:13:31 pm: I was up there with Ollie when he did it and I think he said he wanted to go left so it felt more distinct from dark matter. I guess they are really just three exits to the same line. All a little tight together to be fully distinct. But nice climbing. To be fair even the original dark matter is a tight line avoiding the better holds on fish dish.