UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Andy Harris on March 13, 2010, 08:47:01 pm
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I don't want to monopolise this topic but I ticked a Stanage project today. A classic R-L traveres of the slopey lip on the large boulder facing the road directly below Counts buttress. Weighing in at a mighty crab shuffling 7c it'll test your skin, endurance and right buttock to the max.
In addition Roy Moseley did a 7a on the 45deg roof directly above brass Monkeys. It did looked brushed but only on the low holds which would be mighty hard. I'm sure someone will holler if it's been done before.
No name(s) as yet and another low quality video to follow.
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and another low quality video to follow.
Ok I'm going to put my money on Aerosmith - Dont Wanna Miss A Thing this time.
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You not going to call it The DTs?
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In addition Roy Moseley did a 7a on the 45deg roof directly above brass Monkeys. It did looked brushed but only on the low holds which would be mighty hard. I'm sure someone will holler if it's been done before.
I looked at this a year or two ago. I'm a bit confused about what the 7a is - just from standing or from specified holds? I seem to remember a pop to a lip jug (but I don't think I bothered to top out, so I'm not claiming the problem). The low start is the real prize, though the rock might be friable - there was evidence of prior brushing and snappage when I looked.
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The vid has the problem in but essentially we pulled on from LH high arete and RH poor u'cut, then a pop to the lip & mantle. Quite good but scrittly. Slightly spoiled by the boulder immediately to it's left which if it were 6 inches further away would create a hard but amenable low start.
Still no name for the traverse so you'll have to wait. Did have footage of doing it in a oner but it was boring and didn't look as tricky as it felt so opted for a few cuts.
http://www.vimeo.com/10149539<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/10149539">Stanage boulder problems</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1304101">andy harris</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p> (http://www.vimeo.com/10149539<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/10149539">Stanage boulder problems</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1304101">andy harris</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>)
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the trav looks sweet
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That's the last time I show Jonboy any of DT's projects.
I don't think I bothered to top out, so I'm not claiming the problem
Oof! Bit of a dig there - liking your work.
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No dig intended - I realise it might have come across like that. I just wanted to avoid being an annoying retro claimer.
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No dig taken, we just climbed a bit of rock whether anyone has done it before or not. Something to add to the usual stanage circuit.
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Plumped for a name which was one I thought of when I 1st tried the problem 3 years ago.
"The DT's"
Hope you enjoy it as much as I did.
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That traverse looks mint, and I'm fuckin' lovin' the music :thumbsup:
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I bet Uptowns booking his tickets right now....