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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jmews on January 22, 2010, 10:23:27 am

Title: How do you train when injured?
Post by: jmews on January 22, 2010, 10:23:27 am
Obviously finger injuries mean no climbing, fingerboarding or campusing.

What other kinds of training do people turn to when their fingers are bad?

I'm doing some core work, dips, shoulder raises but just want to see if there's more I could be doing. Very bored of this now!
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: Krank on January 22, 2010, 10:28:47 am
while injured i keep mobility in the fingers by manipulating rizla papers and some light weight work with wine glasses, does me very well. Get yourself on it
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: psychomansam on January 22, 2010, 10:37:15 am
Krank does have a wee point actually, take advantage of the injury to get out and do other things. Getting your mind off climbing slightly can help avoid boredom when you're back at it again. So technically skydiving, or whatever,  is all part of your mental training for climbing again...

If you're anything like me, you can gain just as much from CV training (weight loss) as strength training, but i doubt that's the case if you're campussing. A bit of running can still be a good idea though...

Or you could just spend some time with your other half for once, or find one for that matter....

 :kiss2:
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: dave on January 22, 2010, 10:40:20 am
Obviously finger injuries mean no climbing, fingerboarding or campusing.

What other kinds of training do people turn to when their fingers are bad?

Scouse just goes to the wall and does the same problems as usual only in trainers.
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: cofe on January 22, 2010, 11:05:30 am
do some stretching. or watch Rampage.
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: Jim on January 22, 2010, 12:06:21 pm
Obviously finger injuries mean no climbing, fingerboarding or campusing.

What other kinds of training do people turn to when their fingers are bad?

Scouse just goes to the wall and does the same problems as usual only in trainers.
hes stolen my training technique
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: lagerstarfish on January 22, 2010, 12:24:56 pm
Find out what size/shape holds don't hurt your bad fingers and really good at locking off on those holds (idea stolen from Nick Sellars)
Title: Re: How do you train when injured?
Post by: rodma on January 26, 2010, 01:12:13 pm
Find out what size/shape holds don't hurt your bad fingers and really good at locking off on those holds (idea stolen from Nick Sellars)
:agree:

This is exactly what I did. You can still do loads of climbing (as long as you're really bloody careful). I did this cos I hurt my finger really badly just three weeks before Hueco, so used the time to learn what I could get away with.
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