UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jstrongman on November 26, 2009, 01:59:55 pm
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Been playing with some problems on the beastmaker. Here is a starter!!
start by pulling up on the 35's
move LH to large LH-large rung, do a pullup, RH to large RH rung, pull up, LH to LH-35, pull up, RH to RH-35, pull up, lower on 35's to finish!
Only rule; is its footless!! Have fun
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Needs an estimated grade.
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6 gay.
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I personally thought 7 gay!! but not scared of a downgrade!!
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6 gay + ? or 7 gay -?
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Ok, 6 gay puss or 7 gay penis.
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beastie... 1000
6 different grips... 7 secs on.. 2 off. do each grip in turn.. 6 reps of the whole board system.. 2 mins rest after each hang set, feels piss fresh. hideous if after 1 hr on the board... so pitched right, wkd!!
this is the punter on varian beast concept.
I just did 2 two year old *best evers* on my board, and i'm fat... I only did these once or twice, ever. font 7B at the most.. but it's my max..
slow burn... I'm deeply impressed with this fingerboard...
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I just did 2 two year old *best evers* on my board, and i'm fat... I only did these once or twice, ever. font 7B at the most.. but it's my max..
Fucking hell, that shows progress. Nice one Jon. :thumbsup:
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Ok, everyone done that one?
Obviously there is the much harder variations on this i.e use the 45's instead of the 35's and go into the small rungs rather than the larage ones. Also for a proper tick no nestling fingers into the sloper transitions.
Here is a another problem slightly harder and inspired by the sharma cart project of dosage IV!!
Start on 35's pull up, LH into centre jug, (bonus mark do a one armer), RH into LH-large rung, LH into RH-large, RH into centre jug, (bonus one armer), LH to LH-35, RH to RH-35, lower on 35's to finish!
I do a pull up after each move, but thats just me fecking strong, also you have got to know your beast well for this one or you might end up putting you fingers in the wrong hole!!
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also you have got to know your beast well for this one or you might end up putting you fingers in the wrong hole!!
thats a cue for you stalloni.
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Is there such a thing as the wrong hole?
Also...
Also for a proper tick no nestling fingers into the sloper transitions.
Surely people don't actually do that?? A perverse concept - the fingerboarding equivalent of only toasting one side of the bread :thumbsdown:
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also you have got to know your beast well for this one or you might end up putting you fingers in the wrong hole!!
Aye, there's nothing worse... :whistle:
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As a sort of post-warm-up-i'm-ready-for-action routine, I have been doing this continuously (for the last three years) :
RH, LH on big edges at sides,
RH to jug in middle
LH to RH edge
RH cross out from behind left then back to centre jug
lock back to LH edge - repeat cycle until fail
Its easy, but thats the point - you shouldnt be snatching, you should be locking and reaching in control.
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I have been doing this continuously (for the last three years)
Three years?! Surely you're ready for action by now
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No no no - I was sub optimal on that arete thing we tried - therefore more footless lock off training required. Yes, thats what I needed.