UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fultonius on October 17, 2016, 05:15:04 pm
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Aaarrrgh, my elbows!
I know there have a been a lot of debates in the past about "is it the elbow, of is it referred pain from the shoulder". I don't know which mine is, so I thought I could just do the reheb assuming it's both...
I noticed them a little when belaying towards the end of my 4 week US trip. Just a mild bit of overuse I thought. It's mainly around 1" up from the elbow, on the bicep side, deep under the bicep.
What made it flare up good and proper was a bouldering session at Dumby, with a cheeky F7c redpoint in the middle for good measure. My partner in crime for the day wanted to re-climb The Shield sans pad-stack (not valid...) and I pulled on for a laugh. A laugh because the last time I tried it was when I was going well at Dumby, maybe 7 years ago and I could barely touch it. This time...well...I slipped of the jug 5 or 6 times - mighty close to my first 7B+ straight up boulder.
This problem is a notorious elbow destroyer!
https://vimeo.com/79628699
Had to cut short a TCA boulder session a few days later as they were still pretty tender.
Anyway, what's current top tips for this? Are heavy eccentrics still méthod du jour? What about the shoulders? Can't currently afford physio, so DIY it must be!
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I would start by assuming it's referred pain and do the exercises for nerve flossing described on here and on the internet. e.g
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwi32pWwruLPAhVEKcAKHfQPDn4QtwIIHjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D1x3lKmx3iWg&usg=AFQjCNGNTgSgwrkvTtkYRqBNFJ6HOSlI2Q&sig2=jXwu59fR6bPYYqN753PYgA
If it is nerve pain it will probably improve quickly. Eccentrics to sort out genuine tendon problems are a longer term solution.
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It's mainly around 1" up from the elbow, on the bicep side, deep under the biceps
That's brachialis. Some might recommend eccentric hammer curls.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brachialis&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB690GB691&hl=en-GB&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0gsKnuOLPAhUGXBQKHZqUBnQQ_AUIBygB&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=Fp8TThGYAZ4U1M%3A (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brachialis&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB690GB691&hl=en-GB&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj0gsKnuOLPAhUGXBQKHZqUBnQQ_AUIBygB&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=Fp8TThGYAZ4U1M%3A)
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Cheers lads. I've been trawling through the old threads to glean some more info - it seems like the two approaches shouldn't cause the other one any problems, so I'll proceed cautiously with both.