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1
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by andy moles on Today at 09:28:13 am »
Northumberland does have a strong hand in that kind of thing.

Australia Crack (E3 6b) gets far fewer ascents (probably because it's harder) than Prime Time (7B+). And it's not even that easy to protect.
2
chuffing / Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped
« Last post by Tony on Today at 09:23:32 am »
I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.
You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.
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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by remus on Today at 09:15:14 am »
isn't West Side Story traditionally E4 at 7B+?

Pah, luxury! Layby Arete (7B+) is E2 6c.

I wonder how many E2 climbers have onsighted that?  :lol:
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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 09:12:53 am »
isn't West Side Story traditionally E4 at 7B+?

Pah, luxury! Layby Arete (7B+) is E2 6c.
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music, art and culture / Re: Assisted Dying, UK Parliament
« Last post by stone on Today at 08:51:30 am »
The whole thing is a nightmare though and far from simple, unless we want a “Logan’s run” world.
I was unaware of "Logan's run" and just Googled. Thanks! -that is exactly what I was thinking of when I drew comparison to my fish at work which are kept in a "Logan's run" style.

I was thinking that Esther Rantzen wouldn't want that for her dog, and instead herself makes a judgement as to where to draw the line. But that is simple for her dog because the dog doesn't get a say. With a person, there is a fraught dynamic, where the patient is thinking of those around them and the family/society have conflicting emotions and social pressures -not to mention financial stresses -or a wish to have no perception of being influenced by such considerations etc etc.

My impression, from both the Coronation Street story line and the Louis Theroux documentary, was that having to deal with such dilemmas was another raft of anguish and the last thing we'd want to saddle patients and families with.
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music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches
« Last post by SamT on Today at 08:40:14 am »

Ripley is on the list, but after BR, my other half is after some 'light' entertainment.  :lol:  Race around the World it is!!.
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conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Pantymwyn conditions
« Last post by RobK on Today at 08:29:39 am »
Wow, I was there Thursday evening and it looked a fair way off. The pockets will still be wet and muddy for a few weeks or so after all the face seepage dries back so also depends on your appetite for that.
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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by andy moles on Today at 08:03:32 am »
Really? OK, never seen mention of it.

I think the direct start is Leap of Faith, described as a direct entry to Lost Cause, which IIRC shares that first hold above the break on this.

E8 does seem a bit silly at 8A+ when Transcendence next door seems to be considered too hard for E8 at 7C+.

Source: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/03/third_ascent_of_transcendence_e8_6c_by_dan_varian-71896

Then again, isn't West Side Story traditionally E4 at 7B+? It's almost as if trad grades are not very good for really bouldery routes.
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music, art and culture / Re: TV/iplayer must watches
« Last post by shurt on Yesterday at 11:39:16 pm »
Ripley on Netflix.

I just watched all of this whilst getting over a grim stomach bug. Really loved it. Shady new yorker (Andrew Scott /Hot Priest from fleabag) moves to Europe to track Down an old friend. I don't know if the black and white added anything, but it's really captivating,right to the end

I agree, this was one of the best things ive seen lately
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conditions reports (isitgreasy on twitter) / Re: Pantymwyn conditions
« Last post by Fiend on Yesterday at 11:24:17 pm »
Bananas and Coffee area fully dry on Fri evening and the rest was getting there, given the recent dry weather I wouldn't write it off.
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