UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: Bonjoy on October 25, 2006, 09:30:52 am
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To keep the donation link at the top of the page I have locked the donation thread and started this one for discussion and suggestions.
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First of all you deserve a hearty slap on the back and an extra year's grace on all your projects for this Bonjoy. Effort. :great:
Secondly, why don't we have a sticky thread in the chuffing forum where people can recommend routes or crags which need a good seeing to?
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In an anchor placement training course all today (as luck would have it). But will sort such a thing out when I get a min.
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Bonjoy
I havent rad all links and associated threads to this but long overdue. I am more than happy to help out with re equipping and I guess the two cornices's would be a good starting place. Due to steepness particularly of WCJ where I have had nightmares re equiping or bolting routes before with out a bit of help (particularly bolts below top roof, would it be worth organising small teams to focus on a particular crag and get them each done in a day or so. I dont really have a decent enough drill (usually borrow keith S's) so a team approach would really help.Also in chopping off old rust etc
Simon
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Cheers Simon,
Thanks to the generosity of Neil Foster we have a really good drill with a spare battery, plus i've got a tatty old drill, so i'm sure once we've got enough cash together to buy the fixing then we would be well set to turn up as a small team and blitz the cornices.
If you PM your email address I'll get in touch when things are in place.
Ideally we could do with bringing down a generator and a small grinder for mass removal of old bolts, as this can be more time consuming than placing the new ones usually. Might be worth looking into getting the greenlight from the relevant bodies for this. I'll try and get in touch with Kristian and find out who his contact was when he did that tree clearance at the cheedale cornice.
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Excellent work. Count me in for re-equipping teams. Found some odd'n'sods on the Tor recently too that shoul be replaced before the old 8mms fail.
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here's a suggestion how's about rooster booster at the tor, i reckon my vast bulk would pull those rotten pegs out, and the tree that robertisor landed in has been trimmed heavily...
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I'm well up for some regearing too. First up Zeke the Freak!
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here's a suggestion how's about rooster booster at the tor, i reckon my vast bulk would pull those rotten pegs out, and the tree that robertisor landed in has been trimmed heavily...
Bit of a thorny one that. Removing pegs might make new holds. Locating pegs in good rock and good clip positions round there might not be easy either. The peg Rob pulled out was replaced by Zippy with a new one so that should be ok.
Good work Doyle, that's the spirit. Will sort it out with you when we have got the necessaries.
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Big thanks to eveyone who has donated so far!!! :great: We are still a fair way off having enough cash to do signifact re-equipment so please do think about helping out. You will soon be able to donate with any spare cash at various sheffield shops and walls via these bad boys.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/tins.jpg)
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Bonjoy,
Have sent you pm.
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Big thanks to eveyone who has donated so far!!! :great: We are still a fair way off having enough cash to do signifact re-equipment so please do think about helping out. You will soon be able to donate with any spare cash at various sheffield shops and walls via these bad boys.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/tins.jpg)
Save us a collection tin
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check your front desk ;), dropped one off a few hours ago. Looking good by the way. Bright.
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Good job. Will someone please please re-bolt Hubble. It really is in a dangerous state and im totally fed up of hearing excuses from Markus Bock regarding failure down to rusty bolts.
Whoever re-bolts it will get a big kiss from either myself, or Doyle depending on what exactly floats their boat. Best be quick though, can already hear people searching for their drills.
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I'll let Doyle borrow the drill, that way you can share the winnings ;D
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Hi
Is there any guidlines for replacing rusty or missing or wobbly bolts and pegs
or can i turn up and replace them myself
The two routes i'm thinking of are in the peak area
I have my own drills but dont know where to get the bolting kits or any idea of cost or ethics
Regards
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Depends on the venue, some crags are ok to just turn up and re-equip others have issues associated with access and fixed gear related ethics.
As far as bolting guidles go the BMC will soon be publishing some guidelines for safe placement.
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so who tells me if a crag is ok to just turn up and re-equip, the BMC ?
where do i get the kit from ?
M
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Send a PM to bonjoy.
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If you don't want to say on here PM me and I might know what the sketch is. As yet the bolt fund doesn't have all the necessary kit. I am attending BMC meeting next week, the outcome of which will have a bearing on what we buy and when. It is important bolts are placed safely by competant individuals, so the equipment wont simply be handed out to allcomers on request.
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Hows about re-equiping High Torquing? Bolts are looking a bit tired and will complement the the stuff at Long Tor.
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It's on the list
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I mentioned it on another thread but The Vision would be a good candidate, as would Toys for the Boys down the dale.
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Hi Jon
How is the re-equipping programme going ?
Best, Simon
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Hi Jon,
I'm guessing it is'nt then. Hope the money is in an account with a good rate of interest.
Best, Simon
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Jon is currently on a 6 month trip. The money is sitting there just fine.....weather and injury has been against us as the bolts donated by the BMC are supposed to be for both of the Cornices and this is just a guess but i'm thinking they're both pretty grim?
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How about getting the ball rolling with a re-bolt of Zeke?
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Where is the PBF drill at the moment? Was thinking of rebolting and doing Culloden this week. Have any bolts been bought? Also, maybe Zeke if I get time.
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With Kristian , someone from the BMC rang me on friday and said he'd arrange to drop the donated bolts off over the weekend. As of yet i've heard nothing but if you drop me a pm with your number ru i'll give you a ring a.s.a.p.
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Ru. If you get hold of it are you likely to be in Millersdale on Sat morning. I would like to rebolt Mecca extension which was missed last time Christian rebolted RT. I'll be out Sat am till mid afternoon.
Simon
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If you get hold of it are you likely to be in Millersdale on Sat morning.
Plans are for the Tor Sat am.
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for christ sake someone take the clips out of mecca while you're at it. it ain't the foundry.
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Is Arch Enemies down Dovedale on the list?
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I'll get around to doing it sometime in the near future, its just gonna be a bloody tiring job! I want to do it next year anyway. Any idea on current conditions? If its dry at the moment then i would be keen to do it asap.
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Cool. No idea what its like at the mo, not been down that way for a while. If it would help to have a second person let me know when n I'll see if I can get the day off (not before the new year). Good work down Chee Dale the other day!!
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Bolts on Whose Line is it Anyway looking very old and shabby. When clipping a draw onto the 4th bolt, as I knocked the biner against the rusty hexagonal bolt-head a piece sheared off...eek. The hangers look OK.
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Has anyone considered sorting out jehovakill?
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i take it u want to get on jehovakill dobbin? ned needs time to train u know ;)
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For anyone who's interested in a challenge.
I did 'Ouijaboard' on the cornice yesterday and thought it to be one of the best 8a's I've done on Peak Lime. Given the necessary upgrade and a rack of new bolts this will deservedly become very popular. The bolts at present are 'very poor' (I was actually quite worried, an outward force could easily shear the threads on some) which is a shame - anyone who accepts the re-pin challenge can count on a wad from me. All the old bolts are in pretty good clipping positions except the third which could do with moving down 12" to help onsighters. Go to it locals.
As an aside, how come a route like this gets missed when all the 8a+'s have been resined?
Oh, and Theoria still needs the go-over despite recent ticks on the old 8mm sleeves.
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As an aside, how come a route like this gets missed when all the 8a+'s have been resined?
Because Jon Clark only has one set of hands and (almost) all the other locals would appear to be lazy fuckers, happy to wait for others to do the hard work for them. :shrug:
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It would be nice to see his good work continued whilst he's out of the country. Anyone?
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I notice you did ouijaboard recently Jon. Does that mean it's been re-equipped and I can carry out my promise of a wad point, or did you think the old bolts were ok?
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No, the bolts are still really bad. Probably the worst on the crag (except for maybe on crap routes that never get attention). Needs sorting really. I've got the kit if anyone's got the time.
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It would appear that the reequipping has ground to a halt this year.
We can put that down to a few points:
Last year’s 2 most active bolters have gone road tripping or given up climbing (temporarily I hope). A lot of the obvious classics have been done already and willing volunteers have not been inducted into the dark art. We need not say what the main reason is though DO WE :furious:
In a vain attempt to keep the stone rolling I would like people to at least suggest routes that still need attention. Let’s create a list:
Cry of Despair and the odd one on Roof warrior
Armistice Day needs doing properly
The Egyptian Bizarre
42 (on second thoughts don’t bother)
Butterflies
Lightweight & 7 pounds
Any more….
The shit season is upon us now so I suspect all this will be forgotten when the masses return in the spring.
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Put me down for a few on the Cornice this winter. Have a drill now.
What's the score with the new 16mm bolts, glue and drill bits Jon ?
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Retro All my Pegs in One Basket.
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I've got a big bag of bolts that the BMC have donated, for re-equiping only of course. If anyone needs any send me a PM.
Abracadabseil's pull tester is also available to borrow if anyone wants.
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I've got a big bag of bolts that the BMC have donated, for re-equiping only of course. If anyone needs any send me a PM.
Does this come with glue and loan of drill bit?
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I think Cry Of Despair has been done. The fourth looks a bit rusty but I think most people skip it anyway. I clipped it rather than fifth and it held me though.
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Does this come with glue and loan of drill bit?
Unbelievable. You people. Do you think the BMC is some kinf of charity?
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you checked out the price of a 16mm hilti bit and glue? :jaw:
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Some of them are Petal expansions so will only need a 12?mm bit and no glue.
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If anyone wants to be getting on with kristans list or anything else then my drill is sitting in Sheffield while I'm away travelling. PM me if you want to borrow it.
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I think Cry Of Despair has been done. The fourth looks a bit rusty but I think most people skip it anyway. I clipped it rather than fifth and it held me though.
Well that's OK then? I get the impression that the person who tried to bolt that route didn't have a clue what they were doing, looking at the way the bolts were SMASHED in.
I think we should do a proper job on that route as it is rather popular and spends most of the year under water.
If anyone can get hold of the good shit Hilti HIT-HY 150 or such like for next year.
Using resin bolts at the cornice is good but I would rather just use A4 expansions on places like Two tier.
Add:
Minos & Buster
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I've got a big bag of bolts that the BMC have donated, for re-equiping only of course. If anyone needs any send me a PM.
Abracadabseil's pull tester is also available to borrow if anyone wants.
Would you be willing to hold the PBF drill at your place? My house is right on the edge of the city and not the most convenient place for people to pick stuff up from. Bransby has it currently and could pass on to you when he's finished with it.
Re-bolt suggestions:
Scum Manifesto very good 7a+ at LTQ
All the routes at Bend Tor
Quite a few things on Long Wall Cheedale
I think The Spider could do with big resin bolts, the 10mm bolts in that rock gave me the fear, especially the one on the crux where the rock behind the hanger is falling to pieces!
In an ideal world some young blood with heaps of time and enthusiasm could take over the PBF and inject some life into the effort (all offers considered!). In all honesty me and Paul haven't done the cause justice at all this year.
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Do you mean at my house or at Abracadabseil? (http://access-techniques.com/contact.html). Be no problems keeping all the kit at work, we have plenty of space down there.
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I hope you're well insured... ;)
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Was meaning your work. It's pretty central. I suppose the main downside would be that folk would have to make collections during office hours. Maybe I should ask the Works instead.
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I have 13 hangers and a lower off as part of some instructional get up that's cluttering up our stores. The hangers are screwed into a piece of plywood.
I'm happy to give them away to someone involved in re-equipping routes in the Peak if you're willing to take the whole piece of ply (need to be collected from Jagged Globe at the Foundry Studios next to the Foundry within the next week.
Photo here:
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315 (http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315)
P.M. me if you're interested
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Pm sent
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
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duly wadded
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http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315[/url]
Is the brown one top right UIAA approved?
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:-[ :lol:
(for a moment I thought you meant the brownish/orange gate one on the right - which is a Fixe Draco)
Need some suggestions for where they can be put. I was thinking some loweroffs at Rubicon could do with replacing - e.g. dragonflight, tribes, Dan Bro, too old, miller tale, bigger tail etc etc etc.
Its a pity that there are two crabs on the one ring. The screw gate could be removed and put on another ring but would then no longer be captive and subject to theft. :-\
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Need some suggestions for where they can be put. I was thinking some loweroffs at Rubicon could do with replacing - e.g. dragonflight, tribes, Dan Bro, too old, miller tale, bigger tail etc etc etc.
They all sound good to me. Maybe lower offs on Pirahna and Whitebait too and the singular bolt on Jezebel also needs replacing
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Of course it would be best to remove all the chains from the crag and replace them with one of these http://www.bolt-products.com/BelayBolts.htm (http://www.bolt-products.com/BelayBolts.htm)
which the PBF will supply. Save chain belays for the quarries or where they will be out of sight.
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:agree:
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fine by me - and whole heartedly agree about the chains. Perhaps I can swap them for some BP ones.
Kris - pm me with your address/mob number and I'll pop round sometime soon and pick up some kit. Keen to get on with the Rubicon ones.
I realise relations with the natives are sensitive to say the least but is my understanding correct - that anything between Rubicon and Salar is OK at the moment.
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Yes at the moment everything is fine. Although I suspect the C&LFF/mafia will be looking for excuses as they are already making things difficult upstream.
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Anyone itching to do some re-bolting ?
I have bought a new Hilti drill which I can lend out (not for too long please - I use it for DIY) and have some PBF/BMC bolts and glue too though needs a 16mm drill bit for these.
I also have an old Hilti drill (but defunkt batteries) that can be lent indefinitely if someone wants to get properly stuck in.
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Apparently there is now a lower off on whitebait and possibly one on Piranha to follow using kit I have supplied from the PBF.
Also some info to note is the state of the bolts on the Flow 8a+ on Two Tier. All the washers have been removed as they were bleeding rust on the stainless bolts. All the hangers were loose and the 3rd and 5th bolts could not be tightened and are rattling around in there holes and therefore need to be replaced.
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Not sure if this is the right place but just thought I would post that the lower off for Jive Turkey/Bullet the Blue Sky isn't great. Currently there is a peg and two old bolts, hangers look okay but the bolts themselves seemed pretty rusty.
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Apparently there is now a lower off on whitebait and possibly one on Piranha to follow using kit I have supplied from the PBF.
Whitebait has been retro-bolted, rather than just new lower off. There is a new double bolt lower off at the top of the crag and a double bolt lower off above the bulge. In addition there is a new bolt next to the peg (which is also new I think).
Bolt at the flake of Piranha , anyone??
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Whitebait has been retro-bolted, rather than just new lower off. There is a new double bolt lower off at the top of the crag and a double bolt lower off above the bulge. In addition there is a new bolt next to the peg (which is also new I think).
Bolt at the flake of Piranha , anyone??
sorry , just meant to copy bit of kc's post
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This is a suggestion for cleaning/stabilisation as opposed to re-equipping. On The Road at Lorry Park Quarry is a masterpiece of a route in a rancid location. It seems to be getting loads of traffic since the new guide came out:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22912
There is a big block near the top (on the right wall of the corner, near the lower off) which looks a bit perilous and you end up pulling on it quite a bit. It might be quite stable, but it looks like it might deteriorate in a few years time. The line of the rope is directly under the block and I suspect it would quite happily chop the leader's rope if/when it does go. Would this be a candidate for some crowbarring (you'd have to hope there were could holds behind) or slapping a load of glue down the back of it?