UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: TomP on April 15, 2009, 03:34:47 pm
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I think this is news.
Over the Easter weekend I went to St Bees and climbed a problem to the left of Yellow Desert Scream:
(http://pdvoag.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pqydcAqWkS6ug-6LNxtpdDzs-xMKG-hVBneULnCybbC-37e1BaRlSaiI_ypEbm2uM0T3ir7Z9ZbrO-WcXo6rbfo3Fgdla7EDM/Wall%20by%20Yellow%20Desert%20Scream.JPG)
(Apologies for uploading such a large photo! I can't seem to get it smaller).
What an amazing venue! Spent most of the time lapping up the sun.
The problem starts with an undercut with LH and the big pocket with RH and makes a huge dead-point move to a small crimp in the middle of the wall (full span) and finishes as for YDS. It felt about 7c+ but could be a little harder (especially for the more vertically challenged folk). It's a really nice problem and looks like an independant line. However, it's slightly eliminate as you can stretch to the arete after getting the crimp. Hopefully a worthwhile addition to what I think is one of the most beautiful bouldering spots in the country.
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So it's basically a bad sequence for YDS? :P
Good effort though. There's a wall right of YDS for you to do as well.
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nice, looks more like a good eliminate variation than an "indepedant line" (like GCdubya says, doesn't YDS use both your big pocket and the crimp on the face anyway?) . what a venue. 8)
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So it's basically a bad sequence for YDS? :P
Good effort though. There's a wall right of YDS for you to do as well.
If you climb about V8 you can do everything pretty quicky. I was looking for other stuff to do. I reckon taking YDS from the RH side is a worthy project. Oh and a SDS to Clash of the Titans! That would be awesome and hard. In fact there's lots to do there. I went for a mission a long the coast and spotted some potential hard projects (which all need an army of cleaners).
nice, looks more like a good eliminate variation than an "indepedant line" (like GCdubya says, doesn't YDS use both your big pocket and the crimp on the face anyway?) . what a venue. 8)
Yeah, it's more eliminate but climbs well. When you look at it with the LH undercut, it make sense.
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Went back to St Bees again this weekend. Naturally i wasn't disappointed. Re-did this wall and thought it was excellent. Another visiting strong lad from Glasgow also dispatched this wall and got very excited once he latched the crux.
I have also done another new problem (I think). Around the 7b/7b+ mark. Will check around but can't find any record of it anywhere:
"http://vimeo.com/4491485"
(http://pdvoag.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p4dJbGcGPRT_sPsa0xGxlc4aMsk9Yx2fX517kRKXBGDAT1jCzXhGGYmhrWJTl3Zx4wvXkdTZxDt6oqJMys7uTvegscALxxwbP/Lakes%2009%20Dyno.jpg)
It is in the second area as you walk through the cave. Can be easily missed without the presence of chalk.
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Is that where that 7a/+ traverse starts?
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Yeah the 7a+ starts at the jug that the dyno is to. As far as I was aware there was no direct top
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Another visiting strong lad from Glasgow also dispatched this wall and got very excited once he latched the crux.
Bless. You can take him anywhere twice...........
.............2nd time to apologise, aye Will!!? ;)
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Another visiting strong lad from Glasgow also lanked his way up this wall and got so excited when he latched the crux that he made a mess in his pants.
:wank:
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It's a good problem and a hard move!
I had a good reason to get excited, the mess in my pants was from the scary top out! :o
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After a bit of digging it appears Dan Varian has climbed the wall left of YDS before, as well as some other unreported lines. Don't think the roof problem has been done beofre though. Nice one Dan