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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: haydn jones on September 03, 2017, 05:55:41 pm

Title: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: haydn jones on September 03, 2017, 05:55:41 pm
maybe he has climbed it, not 100% sure.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYlfSbsl9Hq/?hl=en&taken-by=adam.ondra
also gaz parry on FB says he has.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: haydn jones on September 03, 2017, 05:56:31 pm
can anyone confirm this to be true, if its not mods delete this post
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: haydn jones on September 03, 2017, 06:20:16 pm
ok this is now confirmed from BLANK... GET FUCKING PSYCHED 9c!!!!!!!!!
 :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Wood FT on September 03, 2017, 06:27:50 pm
Yes!
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: IanP on September 03, 2017, 06:28:40 pm
Also confirmed by James Riley (whose out there) on Facebook  :jaw:

Liking the gnomic instagram post!
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Coops_13 on September 03, 2017, 06:59:15 pm
 :o
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: bigironhorse on September 03, 2017, 07:01:28 pm
 :strongbench:
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: gme on September 03, 2017, 09:02:42 pm
 Amazing. Can't wait for the footage.

It's frightening to think that neither he or the cave has even reached maturity yet. This was the easiest of his projects.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 03, 2017, 09:35:18 pm
No way that's 9c. 8b into a kneebar into an 9b+ cannot be more than 9b+. By extrapolation (by quite a bit :lol:)
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2017, 08:27:03 am
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2017, 10:53:48 am
9c :jaw:

https://www.facebook.com/adamondrafanpage/photos/a.880349645378884.1073741828.880346022045913/1449812308432612/?type=3&theater

Awesome stuff. What a beast. Cutting edge bouldering in the middle of a massive route. The future is now.

Edit: removed question mark from grade.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 12:17:45 pm
That's a fanpage, not run by Ondra or his management. But fair enough, Ondra seems to confirm 9c : http://www.mytendon.com/adam-ondra-climbs-the-worlds-first-9c-515d
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: andy popp on September 04, 2017, 01:06:49 pm
I still find news like this totally inspiring. Its been an incredible couple of years, with the Dawn Wall (FA and repeat), Nalle climbing the Lappnor project, Honnold soloing El Cap and now this.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 01:26:55 pm
Which one will be repeated first? Burden of dreams, Freerider solo or this? (I'd wager Burden of dreams if I were a betting man)
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: andy popp on September 04, 2017, 01:38:35 pm
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: IanP on September 04, 2017, 01:49:48 pm
A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

It does seem like it is the place to be in the summer but nobody has been able to do the 'easier' test pieces (Change, Move) yet so this one might be waiting a bit longer.  Looks like Seb Bouin has been trying Move for a good chunk of the summer, no tick yet but maybe this will give him that extra bit of psyche needed!
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: dave on September 04, 2017, 02:03:24 pm
You see using Ted's logic 8b into a kneebar rest into 9b+ should be easier than the 9b+ on it's own, because he'll just be nicely warmed up by the time he hits the 9b+, so I'm sounding the armchair downgrade klaxon folks.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 02:11:48 pm
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 02:17:51 pm
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: abarro81 on September 04, 2017, 02:43:01 pm
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.

It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: T_B on September 04, 2017, 02:47:53 pm
Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.

It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.

Exactly. Or just a few big pulls.

Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Nibile on September 04, 2017, 03:07:31 pm
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Doylo on September 04, 2017, 03:31:43 pm
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.

It's just a theory for now until proven.  :lol: Bitchiness must have always existed at the top. Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: cowboyhat on September 04, 2017, 03:37:31 pm
As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace.  :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.


Tell me there is an instagram with you staring down the barrel, curling your lip saying you're very happy!?
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: JohnM on September 04, 2017, 03:50:57 pm
Quote
Amma, who's quit climbing

Has he?
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 04:00:13 pm
Oh well, I just remember reading something he wrote about how he had no interest in difficult climbing anymore. He's still climbing off course (at a very high level as well, but not at 9b I think?)
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 04, 2017, 04:24:55 pm
Interview with Ondra: http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-9c-project-hard
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Oldmanmatt on September 04, 2017, 04:33:36 pm
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.

I hear Shark's been working it, but is struggling to get his ladder past the kneebar.
Probably not climbing fast enough.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: HaeMeS on September 04, 2017, 04:53:50 pm
Another interview in English on Planetmountain.com: http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-climbs-worlds-first-9c-at-flatanger-in-norway.html
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Fiend on September 04, 2017, 05:25:28 pm
Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.

Damn right  ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Clart on September 04, 2017, 07:48:41 pm
Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.

Damn right  ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...

Standby, my powers of forum manipulation are weak but see if this works (from the 'Ben Moon interview thread circa 2013):


From OTE 53, Dec '95/ Jan '96.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/10005386944_11e473ca5e_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005386944/)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/10005450686_a188a98ce4_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005450686/)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/10005507253_9437b5fb8f_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005507253/)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/10005402615_8342fb85a7_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005402615/)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/10005514003_c32cb142e2_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005514003/)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/10005376964_03779bfd36_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005376964/)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3801/10005374324_0febfe03e3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005374324/)

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/10005391585_3fd25dd0f6_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005391585/)

(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/10005435336_3f57c08830_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005435336/)
[/quote]
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Coops_13 on September 05, 2017, 08:00:29 am
Enjoyed that, has anyone attempted to repeat Akira?

EDIT: Just found this: https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ Good read
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Fiend on September 05, 2017, 09:02:51 am
 :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: gme on September 05, 2017, 09:22:54 am
Interesting to read this now and looks like ben was right all along only the outcome has been totally opposite to what he was suggesting.  All the routes he says are overgraded have pretty much stayed the same but the routes he was adamant were  correct have gone up a level.

The chart from jibe is pretty close to perfect as well.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Doylo on September 05, 2017, 10:00:57 am
Ye those French 8c+s stayed at 8c+ and Ben's British examples Sea of Tranquility and Liquid Ambar went up. And they've still had sod all ascents. Caff's done neither yet despite considerable effort (he did Big Bang twice remember ).
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 05, 2017, 10:07:52 am
Huber's routes have been mostly upgraded. They have all exactly one repeat, by some chez guy.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: ferret on September 05, 2017, 10:52:33 am
Always loved Rouhlings cartoon in that article, hands down the best contribution.
Friends of mine in Targasonne knew him really well, put up or repeated most of the early 8s there. Undoubtedly was capable of climbing at or above the 8B mark way back. My friends said he was generally an incredible climber, but truly disturbing on his home stuff (where they had climbed with him on several occasions).
One of my friends who was a total roof specialist (did the second ascent of Fatman assis) put quite a bit of effort into Akira. His thoughts were that it was an 8B into an 8B with a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket in a roof between the two. Probably 8C boulder, which is how he saw it, as he thought the roped bit at the end was pointless. He built a vague training replica which looked disgustingly hard, don't think he ever linked further than half way through the 2nd 8B section.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: HaeMeS on September 05, 2017, 11:48:16 am
If correct, it would make Akira the first 8C boulder.  :-\

Strange Ondra or Megos never tried (?) the route.
Despite not looking very attractive, its still the first claimed 9b.
21 years ago!
 
I remember Ondra mentioning the route in an interview (in the lines of to far away, not attractive iirc).

Rouhling climbing Autre Coté du Ciel: https://vimeo.com/10818933
Rouhling climbing (part of) Akira: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSSxk71e-2k
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: petejh on September 05, 2017, 01:06:34 pm
An aside from the topic, but you don't see quality articles like that in today's climbing media (print or digital).
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: jwi on September 05, 2017, 01:40:17 pm
I like that Akira video. It's the only proof I've seen that Rouhling can link four hand moves on a climb.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Will Hunt on September 05, 2017, 01:49:20 pm
Fair play to Ondra on doing a hard route, but his post climb celebration game needs some serious work. Are we going to start a thread to replace YYFY with "I'm just really happy"? Are we fuck.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: kelvin on September 05, 2017, 03:38:07 pm
 :beer2:

Seb had a tin of cold beer with dinner but couldn't see one near Ondra - maybe he was on the vodka?

 :please:
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Kingy on September 05, 2017, 09:36:18 pm

Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.

Good to hear a vignette about Evo, I always thought Nic did Evo very quickly. I know he did some awesome links on the top wall but had thought the whole route rolled over pretty quick too. I guess the start to the block is only about V5.

My grading theories have changed over the last few years, adding anything into something hard seems to raise the bar disproportionately higher. The first few juggy pulls of Mecca up to the second bolt make it massively harder than going from sat on the 2nd bolt to the top. Many other examples out there
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: gme on September 05, 2017, 10:44:17 pm
Nic did evo in 6-7 days. It was progress that took him ages.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Kingy on September 05, 2017, 10:52:29 pm
Yes I heard it took Nic 40+ days for Progress, nothing by the standards of some of today's siegers!
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: T_B on September 06, 2017, 07:07:17 am
Ok so maybe he did block to top in a day or so? The point is adding just a few relatively 'easy' moves was significant.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2017, 09:35:38 am
It's time on rock that counts. Especially when climbing into bouldery sequences.  Doesn't matter if it's relatively easy. That's why it's slightly surprising Ondra did his route 3rd go from the bottom. Guess he was ready.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: abarro81 on September 06, 2017, 09:52:44 am
It's cos he's fully embraced the way of the knee, and the associated blessings from the Gods that this brings with it. The route looks totally awesome, I love that the hardest thing in the world is novel, interesting looking climbing with inverts and all that kinda stuff. Old school hard cruxyness in a new school format.

On a totally off-topic tangent, I genuinely can't understand for the life of me how it's possible to do Evo in ~6 days and take ~40 on Progress. Was he using a whack sequence? Every move is utterly trivial compared to the moves on Evo!!
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2017, 10:12:53 am
Used to be more holds on Progress too. Jerry swooped in and swiped the FA quicktime.  :wub:
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: gme on September 06, 2017, 01:34:43 pm
It was more like 20 days including all the cleaning, glueing etc and over two summers of Kilnsey on off wetness etc. Plus its was to be a 1st ascent before Jerry nicked it.

As far as i can remember it was the longest time nic spent on anything with most others taking sub 5 other than evo. It was also the last hard thing he did as i guess it finished him off. He got into "trad Bollocks" (his quote) after that.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: remus on September 08, 2017, 11:17:15 am
We have a name, 'Silence'. https://www.instagram.com/p/BYxqK3NFG6n/
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Danny on September 08, 2017, 11:24:26 am
I'll believe it when I hear it.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: dave on September 08, 2017, 11:34:45 am
Shit name.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: tomtom on September 08, 2017, 11:37:01 am
it doesnt resonate for me...
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: dave on September 08, 2017, 12:33:10 pm
I heard he rested at the kneebar for 3:44mins.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2017, 12:41:46 pm
I heard he rested at the kneebar for 3:44mins.

Do you mean 4:33 mins?
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: dave on September 08, 2017, 12:45:18 pm
I'm gonna go with Pete's tactic and say that was clearly a joke and not a huge mistake.
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2017, 12:47:07 pm
Well I laughed, so I'll give you it...
Title: Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
Post by: Fiend on September 09, 2017, 09:38:31 am
B+ for effort, F- for research, Dave  :spank:

I quite like the name, but I liked Project Hard more....
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