Jakob not making semis biggest shock? Nothing really a shock after a year in limbo for everyone I guess.
In his comentary Jacob said he missed semis by one attempt.Yes, and?
Should have read 17:40 GMT.
Bloody eyesight.
Yes, and?Nothing really. Up above somebody was saying they were surprised he had not done better and there was a little discussion about wether he would have hit the ground running better. Turns out he only missed semis by 1 attempt thus attempts to read too much into his no progression are somewhat not needed as he was superclose to getting to semis thus not climbing that shit really..
Yeah that was me. I'd say for someone of Jakob's level not making semis by any margin is underperforming, though as I mentioned, with covid there's a big wild card.QuoteYes, and?Nothing really. Up above somebody was saying they were surprised he had not done better and there was a little discussion about wether he would have hit the ground running better. Turns out he only missed semis by 1 attempt thus attempts to read too much into his no progression are somewhat not needed as he was superclose to getting to semis thus not climbing that shit really..
Terrible commentary as per usual
I thought the commentary was acceptable overall, I liked the different co commentators (not terrible and not amazing).
and for what its worth, I thought the commentary on the semis was fine/good.
Thought Jakob was quite good for the semis. Offered some nice little insights at times.Yeah he was OK, though the nonsense he spouted about the jam did annoy me. Seemed not to notice how a couple of his teammates were doing either which was odd.
Stasa though is different class. IFSC should get an option on her commentary for the Olympics:agree: best co-commentator I can recall them having. For a young-ish lass in her second language, she was excellent. Very quick responses, always had something to say without hesitation nor blethering, lots of great insights both personal and technical, and overall eloquence - talking about Akiyo (?) "snookering herself" on W3 was a gem. Although I'd probably still prefer to see her on the mats...
Just finished watching with the wife. She commented that she really enjoyed the problems. I agreed and thought the commentary was ace!
Contrary to someone above who said it was dull, we thought it was an excellent comp 👍
I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!
Flipping dull :yawn:
Oriane FTW though.
I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!
Flipping dull :yawn:
Surely if you want to win in the combined format then getting some practice in your weaker disciplines, especially under comp conditions, is going to be very beneficial?
Interesting very few of the more traditional American outdoor climbers present; no Woods, Webb, Fultz, Puccio, Johnson, etc. Granted they're all getting on a little bit but considering all of them have pushed their bouldering grades in the last year and given it's on home soil I'd have thought at least one of them would have shown up.
I think if I was Shauna and I'd already qualified for the Olympics I would avoid any speed comps at all costs!
Flipping dull :yawn:
Surely if you want to win in the combined format then getting some practice in your weaker disciplines, especially under comp conditions, is going to be very beneficial?
I doubt it. When it's the a discipline they're all only doing because they have to rather than want to alot of it comes down to luck on the day. Speed seems to be one of those things where even if you've practied everything a million times a footslip is all it takes.
Just my 2pence anyway!
How do you follow the qualis? I can't find updates anywhere.https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar/?task=resultathletes&event=1190&result=7
I'll stick my neck out and go for Condie, Miho and Grossman, no particular order.Oriane FTW though.
Podium of Oriane, Kyra Condie and Shauna I reckon :boxing:
Absolutely no idea in Men's.
Shauna sounds gutted on SM, seems like her back is a big issue.
Sad for Shauna. Seems like her back is a much bigger and more ongoing issue than has previously been made out. Must be incredibly frustrating.I think (don't quote me...) she had an epidural for an operation on her knee last year and its left her with serious back problems?
Anyone know what happened to Shauna? 36th in qualifying. With only a single top and a couple of zones.
Ondra, Kokoro, Coleman
Would most like to see Jernej and Stasa do well though.
Also anyone know what happened to Julia Chanourdie? Says DNS on the app.
Ondra, Kokoro, Coleman
Would most like to see Jernej and Stasa do well though.
Coleman out, Kokoro and Oriane only scraped into semis - so much for my predictions...
No Jernej in semis either :-(
At least Stasa and Adam look good
No British men through, pretty good showing though as far as I can tell from the app - 4 of them got three tops, and one more bonus for Matt Cousins would have been enough for semis.
And the only top of W3 is on Miho Nonaka's (https://www.instagram.com/p/CPJnBFjhYND).
Men's way too hard, shame.
Also...
(Not a spoiler, but sensitive)NSFW :
problems seemed fun although not much brutal steepness.
Also...
(Not a spoiler, but sensitive)NSFW :
My thoughts exactly, I can't help but feel she needs some professional support.
I agree. Had similar thoughts about Grossman tbh, not that I'd like to take anything away from a great performance from her!
Given the discussion here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/ifsc_boulder_world_cup_salt_lake_city_2021_report-735122
[TLDR: T-nut holes are "out" like bolts and advertising banners are]
how come Brooke could use the t-nut holes and get away with it? And why did no other teams appeal? Anyone know?
Edit: this was double posted, with the second post a quote of the first post, but including the TLDR - I have deleted the duplicate post and included the TLDR in this post - Ru.
Artificial Aidmeans Controlling or Using any of the following
a)any “T-Nut”placements provided for the fixing of artificial holds;
Use means, for the purposes of judging and scoring, that a competitor has made use of some object/structure toeffectboth a progressive movement of their centre of mass or hips; anda movementof either or both hands toward:
a) the next sequential handhold along the line of progression;
8.17 A competitor’s attempt will be:
A)judged “Unsuccessful” if:
4)the competitor has made use of any Artificial Aid,
Did I miss a reason why there’s two bouldering world cups on the bounce in SLC? I had assumed this weekend coming was speed and lead.The main reasons without a doubt are
b) getting the travel exemptions etc sorted is such a huge amount of work and so uncertain, that once you've actually travelled, why wouldn't you do as many comps as you can? Its totally logical.
I guess they are hoping the travel situation is improved a bit before Austria>Switzerland>France>Moscow>Seoul>Xiamen>Wujiang>Jakarta!
Making it extra strange that Shauna's gone home!
[Making it extra strange that Shauna's gone home!
Sod the wedding goss Graeme, what's the deal with using bolt holes for feet? Legit or not?
Sod the wedding goss Graeme, what's the deal with using bolt holes for feet? Legit or not?
Well we had the Technical meeting for the 2nd BWC in SLC a couple of hours ago and I was able to confirm that it was never intended to change the rule to eliminate the use of T-nuts holes for feet. So they are allowed and it is public knowledge :dance1:
Will hard lugs within the rubber of climbing shoes be explicitly banned soon then?
I can picture a shoe with duel density rubber, soft and normal in all the normal places whilst containing hard lugs in the outside edge for bolt holes.
Are those weird heel hooking ridged shoes allowed?
Will hard lugs within the rubber of climbing shoes be explicitly banned soon then?
I can picture a shoe with duel density rubber, soft and normal in all the normal places whilst containing hard lugs in the outside edge for bolt holes.
Pah. Go the whole hog with jwi's idea: fruit boots with filed down monopoints
| Aleksandra | Miroslaw | POL | 7.20 |
| Janja | Garnbret | SLO | 8.36 |
| Kyra | Condie | USA | 8.44 |
| Anouck | Jaubert | FRA | 8.49 |
| Miho | Nonaka | JPN | 8.58 |
| Akiyo | Noguchi | JPN | 9.13 |
| Brooke | Raboutou | USA | 9.37 |
| Petra | Klingler | SUI | 9.43 |
| Laura | Rogora | ITA | 11.60 |
| Erin | Sterkenburg | RSA | 12.05 || Ludovico | Fossali | ITA | 6.09 |
| Mickael | Mawem | FRA | 6.28 |
| Colin | Duffy | USA | 6.75 |
| Christopher | Cosser | RSA | 6.83 |
| Jan | Hojer | GER | 6.89 |
| Nathaniel | Coleman | USA | 6.97 |
| Michael | Piccolruaz | ITA | 7.15 |
| Sean | McColl | CAN | 7.81 |
| Kai | Harada | JPN | 7.89 |
| Tomoa | Narasaki | JPN | false start |Just checked the ifsc webpage and saw that Kiromal Katibin broke the world record in speed by quite a bit in the qualifiers in Salt Lake. 5.25 seconds compared to the old record of 5.48
SpoilersNSFW :
Just checked the ifsc webpage and saw that Kiromal Katibin broke the world record in speed by quite a bit in the qualifiers in Salt Lake. 5.25 seconds compared to the old record of 5.48
Oh well, the record stood for a few hours until his landsman Leonardo Veddriq made a 5.21 s run in the finals.
This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? :-\
This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? :-\
Yes I did, it was pretty much bob on
The tolerance is +1.5/-0.5 and it was never more than 0.1 out
This all sounds a bit Flo Jo. Have they checked the wall wasn’t a few degrees too slabby or something? :-\
Yes I did, it was pretty much bob on
The tolerance is +1.5/-0.5 and it was never more than 0.1 out
At altitude. Less dense air - less drag 😁
If it's IFSC footage, then it's theft plain and simple, regardless of how good a job they are doing. Who pays for the film makers to travel?
I hope an arrangement is sorted out too but the defences that have been put forward by their supporters seems pretty weak, it seems to boik down to two things. Either ‘they should be allowed to use it because they only use the best bits of footage they have nicked’ or ‘They are making more money from the Ifsc official footage than the ifsc are’
If it's IFSC footage, then it's theft plain and simple, regardless of how good a job they are doing. Who pays for the film makers to travel?
This.
I remember Ondra used to use footage for his vlogs which seemed fair game as it was him climbing, but they put a stop to that too.
...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.
...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.
21st in lead gets her into the semis?
...... Got to be a bit gutted for Kyra Condie - 21st in lead and boulder.
21st in lead gets her into the semis?
Does it? my bad, assumed it would be the same cut off as bouldering. Shows how much lead I pay attention to!
IFSC Facebook page now shows an apology from ORF for some of their footage during the women’s semi. I presume that’s why it was pulled.
IFSC Facebook page now shows an apology from ORF for some of their footage during the women’s semi. I presume that’s why it was pulled.
Is this to do with the slow-mo ass shots?
Pretty impressive showing from the Japanese men.
Even if Garnbret comes last in speed (not completely unlikely) it will be hard to beat a score of 1x1x20. If Raboutou comes second in both bouldering and lead, she will have to be fourth or better in speed to win.
Pretty impressive showing from the Japanese men.
Even if Garnbret comes last in speed (not completely unlikely) it will be hard to beat a score of 1x1x20. If Raboutou comes second in both bouldering and lead, she will have to be fourth or better in speed to win.
The medals are decided in the finals though ;-)
So it is 1 x 1 x 8 for Janja in your scenario. Brooke would need to win speed if she gets 2nd in both lead and boulder. 2 x 2 x 2 for Brooke would see Janja win due to the tie breaking rules.
I'm pretty surprised by the lack of comment from the competitors tbh.
I saw it on a mates IG - it was very definitely deliberate. I'm pretty surprised by the lack of comment from the competitors tbh.
Hamish into lead finals in first... the double would be something special!
Hamish into lead finals in first... the double would be something special!
He's only gone and done it!
Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness c. 80g and Iuliia Kaplina wearing a Camp Alp Racing c. 90g one. Others wearing sport harnesses (Erik Noya hasn't even cut his gear loops off!). Saving about 200g there.
Would've thought in a comp where times are measured to the thousandth you'd go for every marginal gain.
Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness c. 80g and Iuliia Kaplina wearing a Camp Alp Racing c. 90g one. Others wearing sport harnesses (Erik Noya hasn't even cut his gear loops off!). Saving about 200g there.
Would've thought in a comp where times are measured to the thousandth you'd go for every marginal gain.
I'm actually surprised they don't just have a standard harness / fixed weight.
Speed World Champs finals today.
Danyil Boldryev wearing a Edelrid Loopo skimo harness
IFSC OFFICIAL STATEMENT
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) would like to deeply apologise to Johanna Farber, Austria Climbing, all the athletes, and the Sport Climbing community for the images that were broadcast today during the women's Boulder semi-final at the IFSC Climbing World Championships Moscow 2021.
The IFSC condemns the objectification of the human body and will take immediate action in order for it to stop, and to protect the athletes.
After meeting with representatives of the Austrian team, IFSC President Marco Scolaris issued the following comment: ''How many times will things have to be done wrong, before we learn how to do them right?''
Edit: Found this:
The host broadcaster, ORF, showed a slow-motion sequence lasting around five seconds zooming in on chalk handprints on the backside of home climber Johanna Färber while she took part in the women’s bouldering semi-final.
Video is private/removed now, so can't help you there i'm afraid.An edited short of just the pervy camera-work?? Sheesh, I might have actually wanted to see a bit of the semis climbing too :blink:
I imagine they will reupload an edited version? Think that's what happened with Innsbruck
where are you seeing qualifier results?
Mens semis live nowChrist, is the cameraman zooming in on those too?? They really have no shame :o
That fall look awful.
That fall look awful.
Latest news is the CT scan shows no problem. They are waiting for the blood test result
glad he seems ok.
MTS and Hamish M look like they're through to semis
Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up
Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up
Agreed, very exciting.
SpoilerNSFW :
Great comp. worth a watch on. At iplayer catch up
Agreed, very exciting.
SpoilerNSFW :
Do we need spoiler warnings? Surely anybody who doesn't want to know what's happened is not clicking on this thread :???:
On the women's, worth mentioning how unfortunate Molly TS was. Got to the same point as at least 2 of the other finalists, in a quicker time, yet somehow was marked down and missed out. Suspicious that the Russian athlete Dinara was the one who made it through, but there we go.
On the women's, worth mentioning how unfortunate Molly TS was. Got to the same point as at least 2 of the other finalists, in a quicker time, yet somehow was marked down and missed out. Suspicious that the Russian athlete Dinara was the one who made it through, but there we go.
I suppose it's times like these we call out for the insider knowledge from Graeme :please:
I suppose it's times like these we call out for the insider knowledge from Graeme :please:
I think he means CFR not officially being Russia.
Good point.
My suspicion is that we will see climbers reaching the top level at a younger and younger age. Then drop out as they finish growing.
It has got the recipe for eating disorders written all over it.
One positive to the speed climbing was at least it gave a bit of advantage to raw burl.
Currently it seems the issue of weight/height is the elephant in the room. But from what I can see, once they get to 5"5' female climbers might as well hang up their competitive climbing shoes.
Stasa Gejo
However, I also think that setters set for the shortest climbers to avoid stopper moves. However this disadvantages taller/heavier climbers on all other moves.Definitely NOT always the case and you just have to watch some recent comps to see it. I think it was the Austrian Graz comp where the women had to spring onto an arms outstretched slab to start a problem and the shorter ones that could only just touch holds with fingertips were pretty fucked. Nimrod Marcus on M3 in the recent IFSC another example. Although clearly the routesetters generally aim to do a good job, with the modern style of setting - often sparse holds (no little jibs to spare) and sometimes long moves - the shorter climber seems to have as much disadvantage as the longer climbers occasionally getting bunched up into cramped spaces.