UKBouldering.com
places to visit => indoor walls => competitions => Topic started by: jwi on November 29, 2014, 03:23:14 pm
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Live streaming starts at 19.00 GMT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwtdmaYI7WQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwtdmaYI7WQ)
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The largest collection ever assembled of people who have done AD but failed on Hubble :lol:
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Good to see the two route climbers spanking the boulderers :P
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The format made them do a lot of quite hard moves in a short time. Being able to onsight 9a seemed to help for coping with that...
That said, Ondrawad was clearly in a league of his own yesterday.
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That said, Ondrawad was clearly in a league of his own yesterday.
He really was! Especially the pauses he took on the last problem, just seemed to be so comfortable on everything. Loved it when he said that he had already sent it during practise!
I thought it seemed a good event but a little odd at times. There were lots of pauses in the presenting and nothing seemed to be fully planned with regards to questions etc. Could have flowed a lot better. You've six of the top climbers in the world there - I thought that they might capitalise on that a big more and have some proper interviews with them at least.
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Clif bar could have had a field day for getting new athletes
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Clif bar could have had a field day for getting new athletes
Some of those reckless young reprobates were almost 15 feet off the ground without ropes!
Clif bar would never be so irresponsible as to be seen to condone such society shattering behaviour.
For Gods sake think of the children!
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Good to see the two route climbers spanking the boulderers :P
that being said they both pathed the move on the last problem jan and alex couldnt touch in three goes: jimmy got unlucky with not switching his hand at the top and daniel just isnt good at doing things first go.
I thought it seemed a good event but a little odd at times. There were lots of pauses in the presenting and nothing seemed to be fully planned with regards to questions etc. Could have flowed a lot better. You've six of the top climbers in the world there - I thought that they might capitalise on that a big more and have some proper interviews with them at least.
was a bit to do with how little chat they, and pro climbers in general (with the exception of obe maybe), all had...
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I watched chunks of it and heard mention a few times of pre-practice - did they get to play on the problems a lot, or just individual moves while setting was going on, or?
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From what I could gather they had two or three hours to work all the problems. The setters also put jugs up so they could easily get to every move.
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http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/getting-competition-ready-with-jimmy-webb-adam-ondra--alex-megos- (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/getting-competition-ready-with-jimmy-webb-adam-ondra--alex-megos-)|-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-392/600870
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/how-to-route-set-for-the-worlds-best-boulderers- (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/how-to-route-set-for-the-worlds-best-boulderers-)|-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-393/600886
copy n paste to get them to work
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that being said they both pathed the move on the last problem jan and alex couldnt touch in three goes: jimmy got unlucky with not switching his hand at the top and daniel just isnt good at doing things first go.
Apparently Jimmy popped his A2 pully on the last problem. source: http://instagram.com/p/wBrrVqqI8Y/?modal=true (http://instagram.com/p/wBrrVqqI8Y/?modal=true)
I don't quite understand why only the 3 highest scoring competitors were allowed to officially try the final problem. In just his one attempt Jimmy looked way closer to finishing the 5th problem then Alex and Jan, which could have put him second.
It also means that reports are skewed when they quote 5 out of 5 tops from Ondra against everyone else's n tops. Considering most of them were not allowed to try the 5th problem, it gives a unfair (potential) bias towards the top 3 climbers, if reported in this way.
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It's not maths, it's a competition. ;) In many competitions there are knockout rounds.
I think they were just playing around with the format to see if a new approach would work.
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I'm just bitter because I was hoping someone would show Ondra up. :ang:
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Just don't have a juggler on
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Just don't have a juggler on
:lol: :lol:
I watched this thinking what the fuck is dense going to say about the juggler...
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that being said they both pathed the move on the last problem jan and alex couldnt touch in three goes: jimmy got unlucky with not switching his hand at the top and daniel just isnt good at doing things first go.
Apparently Jimmy popped his A2 pully on the last problem. source: http://instagram.com/p/wBrrVqqI8Y/?modal=true (http://instagram.com/p/wBrrVqqI8Y/?modal=true)
Damn that's a bummer, didn't seem to stop jakub schubert from having a pretty good comp season...
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Just seen on Shauna's instagram that La Sportiva Legends 2015 is happening tomorrow. I don't know how I haven't heard anything about it until now.
Anyway, this year appears to be females only (I thought they already had an event for that with a different name?) and starts on Saturday 28th 8:00pm UTC+1. So 9 pm in the UK.
https://www.facebook.com/events/902263663137236/
http://www.klattercentret.se/event/legends/
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starts on Saturday 28th 8:00pm UTC+1. So 9 pm in the UK.
Or 7pm in the UK, if you want to watch it live.
OnBouldering have also produced a quick preview film to get you all whet https://youtu.be/6LXScYVCiBY
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starts on Saturday 28th 8:00pm UTC+1. So 9 pm in the UK.
Or 7pm in the UK, if you want to watch it live.
*which is obviously what I meant :whistle:. I was posting past my bedtime.
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Anyway, this year appears to be females only
that explains why neither Dense, nor I, have had invites
pretty liberal of them to send one to the the daywalking southerner though, eh?
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Charismatic and knowledgeable commentry! Hopefully Liam will be poached for the IFSC comp season....
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Blimey, Janja was good. Hope she's doing the bouldering world cups next year.
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Better than Spiderman was the verdict from my friend's six-year-old son
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Props to Melissa Le Neve on problem 4. What a battle.
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A really good watch, enjoyed it. Problems looked hard, though maybe not for Janja! Good commentary from Liam too.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SljzolQ7rek
Reload selectah.
Really good contest with some good problems and good performances :strongbench:
Edit: good vibes too with the format and competitors.
Edit #2: Janja though, jesus :strongbench:
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Janja makes a class field look very ordinary on those problems... be very interesting to see how she does in the senior world cups next year.
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Well seeing as she won the first two senior world cup competitions this year ... I think it is safe to assume that she'll do OK. From the interviews it doesn't sound like she'll do the bouldering world cup. (As the always humble Domen Skofic put it: “she's crazy strong! sometimes she does moves even I cannot do!" [<-quoted from memory ... sorry])
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A really good watch, enjoyed it. Problems looked hard, though maybe not for Janja! Good commentary from Liam too.
I particularly liked the self-commentating on beard part of the competition; commentary for these kind of events must be really hard, I thought he was notably better than others I've listened to in the past. Hopefully he may get the chance to do so on IFSC events and potentially BMC events too?
Janja makes a class field look very ordinary on those problems... be very interesting to see how she does in the senior world cups next year.
Quite. It was interesting to see Shauna's social media posts after the event which suggests she may agree!
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From the interviews it doesn't sound like she'll do the bouldering world cup.
What a shame. The lead comps just aren't as interesting to watch. But she has competed in youth bouldering world cups, so fingers crossed she gives it a go...
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I saw the the Briançon lead comp live. Really amazing.
Have seen most of the others of Youtube, it grew on me. If you see it with someone else and really care about the outcome its excellent!
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Really annoyed! Girlfriends away for the night so i thought i'd catch up on Legends but made the mistake of already watching redtube a couple of times, no point now >:(