UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: wasbeen on August 10, 2020, 06:27:04 pm
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I am Hannah and I am using my Dads account. Does anyone know any good bouldering places in Cornwall that are fairly easily accessed and have topos? I am going on holiday to the Lizard next week and would like to get out and do some bouldering at some point. I am looking for an area with problems that are 7A - 7C that aren't too reach dependent. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Hannah
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Hi Hannah,
Godrevy is a good bet. Good warm ups and some good 7's. It is tidal, and probably best to go on a fresh windy day so it's not damp.
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Went to check out Tintagel the other day and thought it was class compared most of the rock in the South West (when it comes to bouldering). Not so close to the Lizard but maybe you can stop by on the drive down or the way back - plenty of good problems in the 7s on the Purple Haze block.
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Carn Brea has a good spread of grades IIRC, and nothing overly reachy, don't know about a topo though.
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Awesome thank you so much. I will try get down to them but not sure as the weather isn't looking great at the moment. Carn Brea looks really cool so I will try to go there. If anyone knows of any topos or has any boulder suggestions that would be great.
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It's a nice spot for non-climbers to go for a walk too, nice views.
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Hi Hannah, I grew up on the Lizard - there's not much bouldering, though if you take your boots to the beach you may find some rock worth playing on. As others have said, Carn Brea is probably the closest worthwhile bouldering, its a lovely spot but not much above 7A for you, still worth a visit though.
For harder things Godrevy is probably best, though it'll be around 40 mins drive.
For topos, I think both those areas are covered in Boulder Britain - do you have a copy?
The new edition of it is coming out this week, probably a bit late to get a copy but perhaps not. Grimer??
If not you can work out most of the problems by googling Carn brea bouldering for pics and vids, and cross referencing with UKC
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Personally at this time of the year, I'd avoid granite bouldering, you wouldn't need many problems above 7A at Carn Brea to trash your skin ;) I'd head to Godrevy or explore around the Lizard, there are a few documented 7's around Mullion.
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I’ve got the boulder Britain guide book now. I’ll have a look at both areas. I’ve got pretty good skin so I think it will be alright.
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I’ve got pretty good skin so I think it will be alright.
You might want to re-calibrate that statement after 30 min on the Granite! :D
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The new edition of it is coming out this week, probably a bit late to get a copy but perhaps not. Grimer??
Oh hi Duma, new edition is still a little bit away. Trying to get it finished at mo I expect November 1.
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I’ve got pretty good skin so I think it will be alright.
You might want to re-calibrate that statement after 30 min on the Granite! :D
I thought the same!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGX2UN4EIys
this looks pretty good.
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The new edition of it is coming out this week, probably a bit late to get a copy but perhaps not. Grimer??
Oh hi Duma, new edition is still a little bit away. Trying to get it finished at mo I expect November 1.
Ah, apologies - I just googled BB and amazon told me the new one was this week
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Thanks everyone for the suggestions they have been great and I have got loads of climbing in. I ended up doing a lot in Godrevy. Hannah
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Does anyone know what Tintagel and Hartland are like for dogs?
Or any good bouldering areas around there with 6C-7C problems where dogs will be okay running around (under control, not annoying others etc etc).
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Does anyone know what Tintagel and Hartland are like for dogs?
I don't think dogs are allowed on the beach at Hartland.
For Tintagel, the descent is a bit tricky, but once down might be okay? Not the best place to let dogs run free though, I'd imagine.
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You'll get away with a dog at Hartland everywhere but the main beach (Acheball Cave/ the Trench etc.)
Carnage Wall, St Catherine's Point and the Rhino are not going to be an issue with the latter 2 accessed off the SW coast path which is obviously open to dogs.
Each of the venues mentioned require an easy scramble down some rock. A harness with a handle for the dog and some human assistants might be required but folk do get there dogs down there.
Similar advice for Tintagel, in fact the scramble is easier if anything.
Please don't forget to check out tide times and avoid getting cut off. ;)
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Thanks for the tips! And also about the tide - I hadn’t thought of that…
What’s the scramble down like to Hartland or Tintagel? I’m shit with exposure - st bees was about the limit for me!
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The access to Tintagel is the easiest by far with next to no exposure.
Hartland depends on which area but I would suggest none of them are as 'bad' as St bees
Hope that helps
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Hartland is pretty chill exposure wise, but a scramble. Tintagel has an exposed couple of steps but is otherwise ok with minimal scrambling. Not been to St Bees so cant compare.
I don't have a dog, so take this with a pinch of salt, but TBH I wouldn't take a dog to either venue.
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I've been to all of them and my dog has only joined me at tintagel.
Read into that whatever you wish!
Cheers
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Carnage wall Hartland climb over wall in car park, walk out along headland to stakes turn left down a slabby rock scramble (dog will need assistance) and continue left towards beach along rock shelf. Pebble hop across the beach to more scrambling over small 'fins' of rock. Some friends do take dogs down there but usually requires some carrying or passing of the hound.
St Catherine's point (End is Nigh), nice walk along coast path. Slab descent to beach using thick fisherman's rope, there is a big overlap halfway down, dogs will need to be passed down/up this. Walk across beach pebbles and another small scramble at the end.
Tintagel walk along coast path, walk down grass hill small section of easy scramble do might need help for the first step down, the rest most dogs can do independently.
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Does anyone know what Tintagel and Hartland are like for dogs?
Or any good bouldering areas around there with 6C-7C problems where dogs will be okay running around (under control, not annoying others etc etc).
Having said all of the above...Northcott would fit your requirements and there is next to no scrambling involved if you're there around low tide..
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Thanks for all the advice. It’s super useful. I’ll have a chat with my mate and makes a call on whether it’s worth the faff for some of the venues - my dog can be a pain in new places so not sure in want to wrangle him on any kind of scramble.
I’ll check out some of the other venues which have been mentioned to, thanks!
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Heading to the Lizard for a summer hol this year. Wondering if there anymore info than already said here.
For example, any details on mullion cove (video above)
Or anything other bouldering on the lizard?
Thanks
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31443.msg642417.html#msg642417
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31443.msg642417.html#msg642417
Thanks
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Some Lizard details:
Mullion Cove has a few good bits on serpentine. Including the video in this thread.
Poltesco has a small circuit again on serpentine, with a couple of ok aretes at about 6B each. Ed's aforementioned stuff similarly on serpentine. IMO most of the serpentine is a bit too far on the wrong side of chossy to actually be good. Whenever the sea gets at it properly it improves a lot.
I developed Lizard Point a few years ago, which I think is by far the best area on the Lizard. Easy access, ok rock, enough to go at. Some details on UKC.
A few bits:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAM6zj4DCRA/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/CAM6zj4DCRA/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CO0UPqDD5OD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/CO0UPqDD5OD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_j6JO7DaKB/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/B_j6JO7DaKB/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
I also developed a nice little boulder on the way to Megailigga (on UKC) which I did a topo for on the West Cornwall Training and Bouldering Facebook group. Including this:
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CKOSCgZDFxm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/tv/CKOSCgZDFxm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
Combined with Megaligga, this area is now approaching "worth a visit" status.
Lankidden Cove has recorded stuff on UKC which is absolutely rubbish. Don't bother with that. Nice beach though.
Finally, Porthleven beach has some amazing shapes that got me all excited on first acquaintance, but it turned out to be weirdly soft and spoogy shale. Worth a play if you're nearby.
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never known spoogy used in that context. use Urban dictionary (NSFW) for alternatives.
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Oh really? Surely the Aberdeen sea cliffs are sea spooge central?
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They can goppy, greasy and occasionally schlauky, but never seen anyone spooge on them. They're not that good.
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Some Lizard details:
Mullion Cove has a few good bits on serpentine. Including the video in this thread.
Poltesco has a small circuit again on serpentine, with a couple of ok aretes at about 6B each. Ed's aforementioned stuff similarly on serpentine. IMO most of the serpentine is a bit too far on the wrong side of chossy to actually be good. Whenever the sea gets at it properly it improves a lot.
I developed Lizard Point a few years ago, which I think is by far the best area on the Lizard. Easy access, ok rock, enough to go at. Some details on UKC.
A few bits:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAM6zj4DCRA/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/CAM6zj4DCRA/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
https://www.instagram.com/p/CO0UPqDD5OD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/CO0UPqDD5OD/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_j6JO7DaKB/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/p/B_j6JO7DaKB/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
I also developed a nice little boulder on the way to Megailigga (on UKC) which I did a topo for on the West Cornwall Training and Bouldering Facebook group. Including this:
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CKOSCgZDFxm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= (https://www.instagram.com/tv/CKOSCgZDFxm/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
Combined with Megaligga, this area is now approaching "worth a visit" status.
Lankidden Cove has recorded stuff on UKC which is absolutely rubbish. Don't bother with that. Nice beach though.
Finally, Porthleven beach has some amazing shapes that got me all excited on first acquaintance, but it turned out to be weirdly soft and spoogy shale. Worth a play if you're nearby.
Thanks for this. Exactly the information I was looking for.