UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Pantontino on September 06, 2004, 10:28:19 am

Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Pantontino on September 06, 2004, 10:28:19 am: Got a phone call from a rather delighted Mark Katz last night.

He managed to repeat IdE (V13) at Trowbarrow yesterday. It took him 4 seperate sessions. I believe Nigello was present, relaxing on a deck chair, or something?

I'm sure Greg will have some piccies from Tom Burns as well.

(sorry for stealing the scoop Greg :lol:)
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 06, 2004, 10:34:36 am: word!
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 06, 2004, 10:52:13 am: He he, cheeky blighter! I was leaving this for Greg, but I'm sure he'll write a suitably show-stealing news report for Lakesbloc. :D

Yes I did see this feat with my own eyes, yes I was sitting in a deck chair. Yes it was very dismaying, Mark truly is a tightly packed little bundle of explosive power :blow: Bon, bon effort.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Greg C on September 06, 2004, 12:47:54 pm: Excellent to see this problem finally get a second ascent! There will be pics and a report on LakesBloc by to night... nice work Mr. Katz
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 12:51:25 pm: i thought si'o had done it? or is that just another can of worms i've opened (i'm getting pretty good at it now) :roll: ?

anyway well done, nice send :D .
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 06, 2004, 12:58:51 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
i thought si'o had done it?

thats true, and also you may be interested to know that my sibling's offspring is a primate.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bonjoy on September 06, 2004, 01:22:42 pm: Quote
thats true, and also you may be interested to know that my sibling's offspring is a primate.

:? Aren't we all, or are you hailing from a hitherto undiscover Phylum Mr Parry :D ?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 01:24:33 pm: we're actually geater apes bonjoy :wink: technically primates are more closely related to squirrels etc than us
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bonjoy on September 06, 2004, 01:27:08 pm: Wha'choo on about boy!? Apes are a type of primate. Squirrel, squirrel, who ever heard such a thing!!!!! And they say standards in education are rising :roll: .
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bubba on September 06, 2004, 01:31:47 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
i thought si'o had done it? or is that just another can of worms i've opened (i'm getting pretty good at it now)

Just for you

(http://www.bitemelivebait.com/jpg/worms2.jpg)
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 01:35:36 pm: yeah everything monkey like is under the supergroup primates but it divides into three smaller groups classified as lower and higher primates and old world monkeys. we're old world monkeys - great apes - family homidaie. that may be spelt wrong though :oops:
sorry it's the lower primates r more related to squirrels than us.
so technically daves little sister could have given birth to a lower or higher primate in no way evolutionary connected or in the same superfamily as us. it depends upon where you draw the line i suppose.

here we go again another can opened :wink:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 06, 2004, 01:41:34 pm: sorry science boys, maybe i should have said simian or anthropoid.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 01:43:18 pm: :lol:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Mr.Burns on September 06, 2004, 03:52:08 pm: :offtopic:

It was a fucking good effort by Mark considering how hot it was (when you consider how hard the pinch is to hold in mint conditions!). :shock:

I got some good pics too and will post them tonite.

Good Send!!!
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Si O'Conor on September 06, 2004, 04:25:39 pm: ...
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 04:28:04 pm: hows skyebloc comin along si? the intro looks really good by the way. :wiggle: :wiggle: :wiggle:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Si O'Conor on September 06, 2004, 04:42:11 pm: ...
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 04:48:24 pm: sweet as, i'm lookin forward to it. :D
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 06, 2004, 04:59:09 pm: Quote
i thought si'o had done it?

Yes I believe he has, a few years ago. Since he's here why don't you ask him yourself?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 05:10:06 pm: okay nigel,

si have u climbed isle de canta at trowbarrow?

Greg wrote 'second ascent' however i'm sure he meant to right 'second repeat'. :trout: an easy mistake to make...

i'm not gonna lie, u will have probably seen that i have cited my doubts about your claims on this sight like so many others but i am far more inclined to believe that you're a genuine guy climbing hard shit on skye than a liar.

all the best

jonny
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: account_inactive on September 06, 2004, 05:12:48 pm: Quote
Quote:
i thought si'o had done it?

I think he knows what he means
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 06, 2004, 05:14:58 pm: Quote from: "Dylan"
Quote
Quote:
i thought si'o had done it?

I think he knows what he means

:?::?::?: wot on earth does that mean? :?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Doylo on September 06, 2004, 07:10:04 pm: little beast
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 06, 2004, 11:10:24 pm: News report and nice picture of the man himself on Lakesbloc:

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Jim on September 06, 2004, 11:12:55 pm: A fine effort. I'm looking forward to getting back up the lakes when the weather calms (and cools) down a bit
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Si O'Conor on September 07, 2004, 12:50:36 am: ...
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 08:59:25 am: Quote
maybe he thinks it annoys me

well it wud fuck me off...but as u say there's no point in gettin into a online bitchin session.
the reason i asked is cos i saw some pictures of si on it a while ago and wanted to no whether he'd actually climbed it or just had a go on it. in my eyes it's been cleared up so no need for said bitchin session.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 07, 2004, 10:22:19 am: Quote
Yep there were photos of IslaDeC, yep a few pals were there,

Si, it is probably in your interest for people to be aware of this thread where one of your pals actually comes forward:

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1350&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

Quote
...but like i posted on the thread earlier...is that wee metal bar still lodged in the base of the arete?...nobody seems to wanna answer that...

I haven't a clue but seeing as how you seem so keen to find out I'll have a look tonight for you! If its a shiny threaded stub it is Gaskins', he sticks a bolt hanger on it to hold him in when he's trying his V16 project on a rope.

Quote
Played alot on that boulder on all sides after & before Isla DeC, from the deep pit round right of Isla DeC & up that wall left via shattered lone edge. Wonder how that hold got there...it isnt natural.

The hold isn't natural, it is "chipped". It was created by accident by the fumblings of the big equipment that they cleared the quarry base with a good few years ago.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 11:33:59 am: correct me if i'm wrong,

but si has a credible independent witness of his second ascent of isle de canta and has said so himself on this thread that he made the second ascent. so why not give him credit for what he's achieved? by stating that katz made the 2nd ascent u r blatantly calling si a liar greg.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Mr.Burns on September 07, 2004, 11:42:17 am: Just read the threads on Nigels link with interest. The girl defending Si (I think her name is Hells or something) doesn't actually say that she had seen Si on Isla D'Encanta when asked by Nigel.

Although I like to give people the benefit of the doubt I am inclined to belive that Mark's is the second ascent not just because I was there at the time but also because alot has been said about Simon Connor over the years, and not all of it good, I have spoken to people who Si claims to have climbed with who say they have never climbed with him.

I am afraid in my eyes Si your reputation precedes you.

But of course I would love you to prove me wrong.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 11:47:32 am: my burns wrote
Quote
Just read the threads on Nigels link with interest. The girl defending Si (I think her name is Hells or something) doesn't actually say that she had seen Si on Isla D'Encanta when asked by Nigel.

Wot The Fuck?

helly from SC

Quote
I was there when he repeated Gaskins Iladecanta

no, you're right tom she doesn't say she saw si repeat isle...

i must have read it wrong or something :roll:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 11:55:08 am: fingers, bear in you can't class any witness as credible until you know who that person is, know something about them, then they become credible. afterall a user XXXX on YYYY forum is as anonymous as the next man.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bubba on September 07, 2004, 12:02:23 pm: Oh no, not again ffs :roll:

Some people don't believe Si O's claims, some do, or at least want to.

There's no "proof" because nobody was present to video the ascents. So, either you take the man on his word or you don't. Most don't which isn't suprising because he's claiming ascents at the very top levels of world bouldering.

This is never going to be resolved by discussing it on here and this is about the 5th topic on this subject....it's getting boring.

If Si wants to prove he did something to those who doubt him then he's going to have to come up with the video footage. If he's not arsed, then the doubters will carry on doubting, and that's the way it will stay.

End of story. There's no solution. So please all stop going on about it.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:04:36 pm: let me put this to u dave.

u no as well as i do climbing isn't a big commercial sport, its top athletes aren't making a lot of money, they climb for the love of it and the satisfaction it brings. not for money or publicity.

do u really think si'o connor set up at least 2 other accounts, bothered to find a picture of a woman and put it on as the avatar for ukb and then used these profiles to give his 4 year old ascent of isle de canta credibility?

if u do then... well... i don't know what to say.

do u really think that mr connor is a delusional crackpot with multiple personalitie's online? he ain't gettin shit from his claims. no money, no free shit. fo fucks sake he isn't even sponsored by anyone. (sorry si if u r).

the only possible pleasure he's getting from this is he's sitting laughing as i type this up and u reply, that he's laughing at all the controversy there is about him, and all the lines people have typed about him.

and lets say for arguements sake he is... well the jokes on him then. and u can content yourself with this. si's a lunatic on skye and you're not.

anyway i'm not writing another line about this subject.

sorry bubba i was typin this at the same time u were typin yours.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:09:59 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
u no as well as i do climbing isn't a big commercial sport, its top athletes aren't making a lot of money, they climb for the love of it and the satisfaction it brings. not for money or publicity.

I'll just add to my list of character traits for human beings "no-one lies unless its for money" and "no-one does anything for publicity". Cheers for pointing that out. I could have looked a right idiot there.

Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"

do u really think si'o connor set up at least 2 other accounts, bothered to find a picture of a woman and put it on as the avatar for ukb and then used these profiles to give his 4 year old ascent of isle de canta credibility?

Ah you're right, its totally impossible. What was i thinking?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:12:47 pm: nice one dave since u've obviously got all the answers why is si'o connor doing this?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:18:34 pm: people do thing for a lot of reasons other than money. I don't post on here for money, you don't go climbing for money. That guy didn't shoot Lennon for money, nelson mandella didn't bring down apartied for money. the human race is a diverse one, use your imagination.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:21:15 pm: no, i posted up viable reasons why he's doin it?
a)he ain't lyin
b) he's of his trolley and laffin at us all

i want to know why u think he's doing it.
ur obviously completly happy to make personal comments on the man's achievements so why not comment on what u think he's gaining out of all this if he is lyin?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:23:35 pm: P.S. I'm not saying what Si has or hasn't done, nor have i any vested interest in proving either way (i.e. he's never clamed anything at my local crags etc) other than a general respect for honesty etc., I'm just saying you can't rule things out just cos you deem them a bit unlikley, cos a lot of unlikley things happen all the time.

belive me i'd love to be sure that the UK now had three 8cs. That would be amazing.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:28:07 pm: hang on a sec dave. ur not bothered about proving what he has or hasn't done? why do feel the need to make belittling comments about him then? so you're prepared to slag him off even though u don't really actually care about proving him wrong? that makes it worse in my opinion.

once again u refuse to answer my points. i can't see any other reason why si is claiming these problems othere than the ones i've listed so why won't u enlighten me on why u think he's doing it?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: squeek on September 07, 2004, 12:28:09 pm: Quote from: "dave"
belive me i'd love to be sure that the UK now had three 8cs. That would be amazing.

Is it not 4?
Walk away SS, Il Pirata, Extradition, HyperBallad, (and maybe special roped guest apperance of Violent New Breed?).
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:28:35 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
so why not comment on what u think he's gaining out of all this if he is lyin?

not sure how many times i need to state that theres a whole range of motivations for human beings to do stuff. Obviously i've not stated it enough. :roll:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:29:25 pm: how many times do i have to ask that i want your personal opinion on his motivation? because if u haven't got one then once again why slag him off?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:30:20 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
once again u refuse to answer my points. i can't see any other reason why si is claiming these problems othere than the ones i've listed so why won't u enlighten me on why u think he's doing it?

no, as it say above (move your eyes up 2 inches) i've answered your point several times over. open your eyes.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:33:01 pm: Quote
not sure how many times i need to state that theres a whole range of motivations for human beings to do stuff.

well if thats your answer dave then i'm sorry but its pretty pathetic.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:34:35 pm: 'si has a range of motivations for lying about his 8c claims but i won't lay any specifics down, i'll just rip the shit out of him avery time his name pops up' sounds like a good way to deal with things in my opinion.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:39:08 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
how many times do i have to ask that i want your personal opinion on his motivation? because if u haven't got one then once again why slag him off?

for crying out load, there can be all manner of reasons for someone to lie, and if Si is lieing than they can be applied here. I'm sorry for creding you with the common sense to be able to see these for yourself, as it seems to have caused you some distress. (IF si is lying and IF his motivation is listed here then i can't pin it down as i'm not a mindreader.).

I'm sorry if my telepathic skills are a little under par today.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:44:30 pm: i'm not asking u to read minds just to back up your opinions of the man. perhaps u don't realise but as u so candidly pointed out to me in the conspiracy thread my opinions on the black gun crime thing were ignorant and probably making it worse. i accepted your comment and apologised for being a bit of knob basically.
did u ever to stop to think that all your slagging off of si wasn't helpin the situation and just making it worse?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 07, 2004, 12:46:51 pm: (http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~jchap/pics/brick.jpg)

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Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 12:50:39 pm: that's right dave instead of discussing the matter, just be clever and sarcy. nice one dave :worthy: , nice one.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: AndyR on September 07, 2004, 12:56:30 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
that's right dave instead of discussing the matter, just be clever and sarcy. nice one dave :worthy: , nice one.

Thing is FOAM, this thing has been discussed a bazillion times both here and on scottishclimbs.

Some people are prepared to believe SO'C and others aren't. Unless convincing evidence one way or the other comes to light, no amount of arguing the toss is going to solve anything.

Maybe your extreme dieting is making you feisty? :wink:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Mr.Burns on September 07, 2004, 01:00:10 pm: Sorry Fingers you are right I must have missed that bit on the thread. :oops:

But I stand by my other reasons.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 07, 2004, 01:00:55 pm: andy i'm not asking for evidence. i am asking dave why he thinks o'connor is lyin. perhaps there's sum big reason he'd do it that i can't see. does claiming 8c gaurantee u a place in heaven? if so si's gonna be a fuckin seraphim :angel: :angel: :angel:

sweet as tom. i assumed u must have missed it. sorry for the over reaction on my part.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bubba on September 07, 2004, 01:07:37 pm: I think Dave's said he's not sure of Si's motivations to lie, if indeed he is lying, but that people have many reasons to want to lie.

Anyway, as Andy has just said, this has been done to death and I'm really fucking sick of it and it's clouding the main issue of this topic - whether or not it's the 2nd or 3rd ascent, it's a damn fine effort by Mark Katz.

End of story. If anyone wants to continue the argument, please do it via PM.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bubba on September 07, 2004, 10:12:26 pm: Unlocked again - please keep this vaguely on topic please.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: SA Chris on September 08, 2004, 08:46:37 am: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"
anyway i'm not writing another line about this subject.

If only this were true :?

Anyway, back on subject
Quote from: "Dave"
nelson mandella didn't bring down apartied for money

Actually Nelson Mandela didn't bring down apartheid (sp) at all. Do you think it's just coincidence that the collapse of Aparheid happened shortly after the collapse of Communism?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bubba on September 08, 2004, 08:58:40 am: Isn't that one for the conspiracy theories thread?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Greg C on September 08, 2004, 04:53:03 pm: Hey Fingers read this its one of my peronal faves! :lol:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=2076&highlight=si+oconor
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: BoulderHog on September 08, 2004, 06:30:02 pm: :D That thread's pretty funny, Si should be a politician - Yes or no? It's a simple question Mr O'Conner, yes or no?

Still the guy must be the most infamous climber of all time. Could fame be a motivation to lie perhaps (Finger's head explodes with new ideas)? Frankly, if you put your scorecard on 8a.nu and list it for ranking, then expect people to question any world class grades you put on without any evidence to back them up. You don't like it? Then don't rank your scorecard, is this not obvious? So nobody feel sorry for anything that is said about Si, he clearly thrives off it.

Anyway, big congrats to Mark, great effort.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: a dense loner on September 08, 2004, 06:37:38 pm: i'm away for a few days n all this happens. nice one bob dylan with a shrunken body, again not my description but good nontheless :lol:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 06:57:45 pm: Quote
Finger's head explodes with new ideas

ha ha, so funny... not!

i actually said that maybe he's gettin off on all this attention, so if u think thats true then thats your opinion but sayin he's famous is just a bit of a teensie-weensie overstatement.

i would say hated is a more accurate description of his position within the climin community.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Bonjoy on September 08, 2004, 07:29:15 pm: I haven't met anyone who hates Si. Most people seem to find the whole thing an entertaining diversion from everyday life in the real world.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: MrBlue on September 08, 2004, 07:36:57 pm: don't suppose anyone could just pop a few chill pills could they? i forsee deja vu fairly shortly...

:twak:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: a dense loner on September 08, 2004, 07:39:36 pm: i don't know anyone who hates si either. in fact i could do with your descriptive talents si :D
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 08:47:29 pm: okay hated is perhaps a bit strong but famous does seem to carry positive connatations with it. :roll: why would anyone want to be famous for lying about shit?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: BoulderHog on September 08, 2004, 09:13:17 pm: Try looking infamous up in the dictionary, and then re-read my post.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 09:17:30 pm: oops sorry didn't read it right :oops:

but anyway i ain't havin this arguement again cos its just gonna get the thread locked.

but if your gonna use infamous at least use infamy in the next sentence instead of fame (just for consistency when you're tryin to make ya point) :wink:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: BoulderHog on September 08, 2004, 09:25:10 pm: Ok, fair enough, but fame is a state of reputation, and being infamous is also, some people get off on that - the notorious BIG for example. The thing with it is, that he has supporters in both camps, the believers probably balance the non-believers, but he still ends up well known, provided the truth never comes out (not answering simple questions with a yes or no for example). I imagine the truth lies somewhere between, most likely that his problems are hard but not nearly as hard as he claims, and he's either getting off on being well known, or having a damn good laugh at everyones expense. You believe him don't you fingers?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 09:29:22 pm: Yes. i believe he has climbed the lines he says he has and has given them the grades that he feels r appropriate for him. anyway dave macleod is gan to skye to meet up an climb wit si so maybe something positive will come out of that.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: BoulderHog on September 08, 2004, 09:38:07 pm: Yes, you're probably spot on there, they feel that hard to him, he's progressed through the grades in near isolation and that is his grading scale. The question is - does this scale match the rest of the world or does it differ.

It took a few trips to font for me to properly grade stuff, to say this is a certain grade with confidence, any problem I do I can compare it to genuine font benchmarks.

Anyway, this thread should be locked now, not because it's turned to Si again, but because I want to do some training but can't get my fat arse lifted off this chair.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 09:42:00 pm: well his problems in the lakes were confirmed by gaskins. little women lh v11, rh was downgraded by one grade but still 8b, k.o.t v11 also confirmed.
there's an 8b traverse in lancahsire as well thats been confirmed i think.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: account_inactive on September 08, 2004, 09:54:59 pm: Try this (http://www.rockfax.com/publications/images/boulder_grade.jpg)

I would love to say that I have climbed 8b..........but I aint :?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 10:06:29 pm: yeah as in font 8b not traverse 8b
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2004, 10:08:31 pm: Quote from: "Fingers of a Martyr"

there's an 8b traverse in lancahsire (sic) as well thats been confirmed i think.

Nope.

Si did do an eliminate at Woodwell called The Art Of War which I believe he gave V11 (am I right here, Si?), although it has been expunged from existence as the holds were denoted by large blobs of orange paint (the rock is pristine!). Pretty sure Gaskins did it but I don't know his grade opinion. This however is the utmost in esoteric Lancashire knowledge and couldn't possibly be what you're thinking of!
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 10:11:02 pm: not sure really but there was a similar thread about mr connors achievements a while ago can't remember where it was. anyway sum one said something along the lines of 'how can u grade something 8c when the only confirmed problem u've done is a piss poor f8b traverse in lancashire'
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: account_inactive on September 08, 2004, 10:11:27 pm: I must be being stupid :oops:

I thought you were trying to say that V11 is font 8b
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 10:12:27 pm: u ain't dylan, everyones gettin mixed up in this thread.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: account_inactive on September 08, 2004, 10:18:06 pm: So let me get this straight, the V11 he did was 8b

or

The 8b he did was V11?

WTF?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2004, 10:18:31 pm: That is Anasthesia V13, FA John Gaskins. Repeated by Ian Vickers, Si o'Conor.

Although for esoterica buffs Si did have a problem on his scorecard a while ago called Isla Debaser V12. The description was "steel traverse off Isla De Encanta", so Si has done a new V12 in Lancs. Don't know where it goes though - Si? There is a Gaskins V8 lurking just right of Isla but I don't know how it relates to Isla Debaser. This "V8" problem is V10/11 at least anyway!
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 10:21:38 pm: dylan u've lost me completly.

he did a v14 or 8b+ which got downgraded to v13 or 8b by gaskins. plus his two v11's or 8a's at the same location were both confirmed by gaskins. and a v12 as as well actually.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2004, 10:33:11 pm: On the subject of the Little Font problems, I would take the grades with a pinch of salt. Gaskins has been on some kind of mutant grading trip overt the last few years. At The Heart Of It All V13/14 (yeah right - V15?), Violent New Breed 9a+?? (erm - impossible!).

Little Women RH looks at least V14, as Si gave it. Well, frankly, it looks like a V15, into a V13 (Little Women. V11! Whatever).
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 08, 2004, 10:41:40 pm: Quote
(Little Women. V11! Whatever).

hmmmm.... i remember when i questioned its grade on scottishclimbs i was given 'well gaskins says it is' response Nigel. :wink:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 08, 2004, 10:52:59 pm: I would still believe Gaskins as I haven't even tried it, and he's done it (in a session). It does look about V13 to me though! I would like to think that I could get close or do the moves on a V11 of this length. I can see by looking at it though that I'd be hard pushed to move :?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 09, 2004, 12:05:31 am: well i campussed the last 4 moves :8) :8)

but couldn't even pull off the starting holds :oops:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Greg C on September 09, 2004, 10:42:36 am: Plus the Art of War was not a traverse!
Still pains me looking at the fucking paint I did not manage to scrape off... :asshole:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Fingers of a Martyr on September 09, 2004, 12:16:01 pm: wot, so someone painted the holds that were allowed for the problem?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 09, 2004, 12:17:49 pm: if its the thing i think it is, theres a shitty vertical bit of woodwell, and theres a series of holds each with a red dot and next to each one is painted SOC99. Last time i went to a crag and did eliminates i managed without graffiti on the rock.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Si O'Conor on September 09, 2004, 01:40:54 pm: ...
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: c.j.d. on September 09, 2004, 01:42:44 pm: Firstly, back to the original thread - nice one mr katz - beat me to it you little fucker! Looks like i'll have to wait until sunday (hopefully!) for the third ascent (or the politically correct 'fourth ascent'). The stuff at little font looks prety hard, but |I thought 'little women and 'bright new colour' (shite) were scraping the barrel a tad! Compare these problems to the heart of it all (this being awesome) and it makes you think slightly about quality control for the grade and all that... Any how - back to work. Well done young man, if i send, we shall have to go and get suitabley fucked up!
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 09, 2004, 01:59:00 pm: Quote from: "Si O'Conor"
While we're on the subject who was it who put the red dots on the Red Dot Traverse? Have they been hung for the crime yet? :wink:

Nick Conway or Paul Cornforth I think. No is the answer!

Quote
whereas the individual who did the luminous pink spray canning of the Kaizen overhang & the rest of the roof had no morality whatseover :evil:

I spent days scrubbing that mindless shit off....

You missed a bit. :lol: [/quote]
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Mr.Burns on September 10, 2004, 11:36:32 am: Quote
The irony is, at least when I dotted AoW it had some purpous to it, whereas the individual who did the luminous pink spray canning of the Kaizen overhang & the rest of the roof had no morality whatseover

I spent days scrubbing that mindless shit off....

Yeah vandalising crags is fucking aweful no matter how big or small the act of vandalisation is.

Wasn't is you Si that scratched "nice one dave" into woodwell?

I guess that was in your crazy days aswell! cos just saying thanx to dave is so not down with the kids.
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: dave on September 10, 2004, 11:38:08 am: so who did paint SOC99 next to the holds then? somone else called SOC?
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Greg C on September 10, 2004, 11:49:52 am: Yeah Dave that was Socie McAndrews who used to climb in our parts a lot in the late ninties :D I believe he was great mates with the legendary Borrowdale climber John The Gardener :lol:
Title: Isla de Encanta repeated
Post by: Nigel on September 10, 2004, 08:05:16 pm: Come on now Burnsaroonie, no one's ever been arsed about "Nice One Dave" or they would have scrubbed it off! Now there's even a problem named after it, it is part of the Woodwell fold. :P