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music, art and culture / Re: Assisted Dying, UK Parliament

« Last post by Oldmanmatt on Today at 03:29:26 pm »

Have a listen to Will Selfs point of View - October 2023

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001d5rq

My dad (85) took his own life later that day.

Stroke that took away his ability to drive due to a problem with his vision (otherwise un-affected) and then Alzheimers diagnosis.

Luckily for him, he still had agency along with physical ability and above all, the bravery to do what he did.  For which I respect him enormously.

Myself and my sister joked about writing to Will... You killed our dad. 

BZ for the strength that took to write.

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music, art and culture / Re: Assisted Dying, UK Parliament

« Last post by SamT on Today at 03:25:49 pm »

Have a listen to Will Selfs point of View - October 2023

https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/m001d5rq

My dad (85) took his own life later that day.

Stroke that took away his ability to drive due to a problem with his vision (otherwise un-affected) and then Alzheimers diagnosis.

Luckily for him, he still had agency along with physical ability and above all, the bravery to do what he did.  For which I respect him enormously.

Myself and my sister joked about writing to Will... You killed our dad. 

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by yetix on Today at 02:56:02 pm »

Not a repeat but on Ryus Instagram story Sean Bailey makes burden from a move in look so casual.

Is a burden thread needed at this point?

https://www.instagram.com/stories/ryu____1/3358388739302393858?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igsh=MXZkanBka3BwbWc1ZQ==

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by abarro81 on Today at 02:42:58 pm »

West Side, for which E4 would seem fair

Because WSS is, in the overall way an E grade should work, 1 grade easier than than Bat out of Hell and comparable to the Knock (just to pick a couple of examples in the same valley) 

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chuffing / Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped

« Last post by Felix14 on Today at 02:25:34 pm »

Cheers Fiend.
I'll Pm you my CV 

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by Johnny Brown on Today at 02:16:37 pm »

Having done all three, the only one which feels worthy of an E-grade is West Side, for which E4 would seem (fair without a pad). The other two are pretty standard boulders. Be interesting to know if Gawthorpe topped out though, no one does now.

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by cheque on Today at 01:59:48 pm »

isn't West Side Story traditionally E4 at 7B+?

Pah, luxury! Layby Arete (7B+) is E2 6c.

Walk On By 7C+/ E3  unlike WSS the route and bouldering grade have never been used in the same guide though

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power club / Re: Power Club 750 22-28 April 2024

« Last post by Duncan Disorderly on Today at 11:43:53 am »

Life getting in the way - Club

M: 4x4 @ AW - F6bish, 3 x 1.2 - 1.5m foot-on campus 20mm edges.
T: Rest
W: Routes @ AW - Mostly F6c's and F7a's, took some falls, finished with a set of 4's on a F6b+...
T: Nowt
F: Nowt
S: Nowt
S: Bouldering @ AW - Had the whole room to myself - did some linked boulders, a fair few pinks (V5-7) and a crimpy yellow (V6-8)... Fun.

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news / Re: significant repeats

« Last post by jwi on Today at 11:37:53 am »

The young Swizz climber Dylan Chuat repeated Beyond 9a+ at Pic Sant Loup, in his first run of the day, without having any warm-up except some hangs on a portable hangboard. Beyond has a hard low crux as well.

https://www.grimper.com/news-interview-9a-echauffement-methode-dylan-chuat

Interesting tactics.

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chuffing / Re: Routes cleaned or re-equipped

« Last post by stone on Today at 11:17:36 am »

I tried the start of PMD yesterday evening and managed 3 moves. Didn’t quite get into the glued undercuts but there are a lot of foot options and I ran out of shoulders/light.

You been back T_B? I noticed the bottom of the flake seems to have had a bit of stabilisation work (I always used a higher bit). Don’t know when; I ran out of time in Autumn last year and only got back last week.
I don’t find the first few moves the hardest. For me the move up from the undercuts is super powerful but then I don’t do any steep board stuff and it is of that ilk (though, shouldery moves are usually more my style). I think, overall, I still find Caviar harder but YMMV.

From what time of day is it coming into the shade? I suppose it is more East-facing than Caviar but less steep?