UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: nathan wind on April 03, 2007, 08:52:36 pm
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Visiting a mate in Newcastle next week for a couple of days.. they dont climb but I'm keen to use the opportunity to check out some of the bouldering.. never climbed up there but am psyched to check out kyloe-in-the-woods, (amongst other places), just wondered if anyone knew of an online guide? (I'm skint!), whether it'll be in decent condition and what the must do probs are?
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check the search for "Northumberland blues" lots of info there!!! or check out www.northumberlandbouldering.co.UK ,or www.climbonline.co.UK some OK guides and picture on there!!!
kyloe must do :
-Monty pythons
-bad finger
-bad company
-hitchhikers
-jocks and Gordie's
Also visit shafto top notch middle grade bouldering Imo
shafto problems!!!!!
Timmy tip toes
Neb's roof
broken hearts are for.... shafto problems!!!!!
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Shaftoe is a second rate venue compared to Bowden, Kyloe In and Back Bowden. If it's your first time in the county these have far too many good problems to even warrent thinking about going to any of the smaller venues.
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i don't agree with shafto being second rate many people have reccomend it to me and i have had to complaints, but bowden i always find very sandy never had a good day there !!!!
yes, kyleo is a must for anyone visiting northumberland tho!!
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i always found that the rock architecture of bowden always looks amazing, and its a beautiful place to be, but the bouldering never lives up to it, let down a bit by rock quality. the best features seem to be on the routes. i prefer back bowden or kyloe in.
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what dave said. bowden is worth going, but yeah there are some mega route/solo/HIGHballs, but not as good as kyloe/back bowden. but then I like climbing on a board. I went to shaftoe, I won't go back. there are about 5 problems to do there of any worth.
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I am jumping on the Shaftoe bandwagon too Shaun- the quality of the problems is high, though spread out more than kyloe. Bowden is overrated, Back bowden is fun though. For a flying visit stick with kyloe, its better documented and the problems are ace on toast.
However the main problem with the entire county for anyone without 'the knowledge' is the shit arse guide. Written it seems grudgingly with an attitude to keep people away. Why Oh Why etc... grumble...
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I'm quite for it keeping people away to be honest. One of the best things about the County is the lack of people, shame that it should become busy.
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I'd far rather go to Bowden than Kyloe-in. I realise I'm bucking the trend here, but its to do with aesthetics, variety and setting. Having said that, I get more out of Northumberland generally concentrating on highballs and short solos. Call me old-fashioned, but I don't get a lot out of the match-and-drop-off school of top outs.
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JB you are clearly a mountaineer at heart; you should carry some little flags in your pocket to plant on the summits of of the boulders/crags. ;D
I suppose Kyloe-in would be better if you could press out a mantel at the top of a problem (and stroll around in the sun admiring the view), but the climbing is so brilliant that it matters little.
Whenever I go to Bowden I always end up, at least once, in some Oh-my-god-why-have-I-soloed-up-here-to-this-hideous-sandy-top-out type scenario. Happens every time, I just don't learn.
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I am jumping on the Shaftoe bandwagon too Shaun....
Shaftoe isn't great at all, especially compared to Bowden, Back Bowden and Kyloe In. Bowden is certainly not overrated, it has loads of high quality problems.
Call me old-fashioned, but I don't get a lot out of the match-and-drop-off school of top outs.
I know people originally topped out on things like poverty and working class but how many people still do this on the actual problems rather than on things that are clearly routes?
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Yeah, when I went to Shafoe I couldn't find any climbing, just bits of sandy rock. Then I realised that the little bits of sandy rock was the climbing. Perhaps I messed it, but it seemed that in an area as amazing as Northumberland where there is great, proper quality, Shaftoe was indeed seem to me to be pretty poor. It was like something you'd climb on in Bedfordshire.
I thought it was one of those places that are in vogue for a bit, because they get developed at a late date compared to 'good' areas, so the generate some excitement. A bit like Stanton Moor, for example.
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to be fair to shaftoe i went once and did a few good things on excellent rock. the best bit of rock by far seemed to be this big turtle-head prow type thing, there was a photo of sean myles on a then-project in OTE years ago which looked brilliant, and we did a good V4 type thing just next to it. have since seen photos of some toss looking stuff though. probably a great crag if you're local and have got the time to explore and find the best stuff, but its not great on a nanional scale, for a flying visit stick with the mainstream crags.
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To be fair to Stanton, Andle Stone Wall, Spare Rib and Brad's Wall are exceedingly good problems and most of the other probs are pretty good too, especially if you include so-called Naughty Crag Y and the mighty Urban Culture Dispatj, it's just a bit spread out. I'd be happy to go to Shaftoe if it's as good as Stanton
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Queen's Crag or Callerhues as good county venues
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Queens Crag is good but definately not in line with the likes of Kyloe in, wordline is one of the best roof/prow problems I've ever done and queen kong although it kicked my ass was awesome (Bonjoy - I reckon it'd suit you down to the ground...)
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There are a lot of 'local's problems' at Shaftoe, but it has got some very cool sections. If you go to Arete Land, the Font Boulder, and the Turtle/Neb Roof area you'll see the best of it. It's definitely worth a visit for these areas.
Also, if you're pushed for time, it's a lot nearer to Newcastle than the northern crags.
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I cant wait to get back to Queens crag, I have only been the once. That big narrow boulder with red dragon on is fun. The v4 problem on it feels scary for some reason.
Worldline is awesome, possibly overgraded :P (toby, shaun)
Need to get to Callerhues.
Chris Graham kindly put up some info about Edlingham not too long ago, but unless you have done everything in the county I wouldnt bother....
I stand by my position on shaftoe,top outs add a lot of quality. Even vegetation assisted ones..... 8)
Although if you climb at 7c+ or above I think you will tick it and fuck off.
As simon says it is only half an hour away from newhassle
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Worldline is awesome, possibly overgraded :P (toby, shaun)
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:agree:
I stand by my position on shaftoe,top outs add a lot of quality. Even vegetation assisted ones..... 8)
I stand by mine - Its barely worth bothering with, maybe if your working up in Newcastle and only have an hour or so before it gets dark, but thats still a maybe...
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I'm jumping on the 'avoid bowden' bandwagon. although the crag is beautiful and there are some decent problems, i find it really hard to get physced for anything there because it's turning into such a sandy mess which is a shame. I vote Kyloe-In, amazing!!! Nothing wrong with shaftoe at all, some class problems on good rock but I think you need to know where to look.
Visited Rothley for the first time today, well worth a visit there (about 10mins past shaftoe). Definately more of an 'easy-day' crag but there are some total classics.
I'm desperate to get to Callerhues like....is the walk in as bad as i've heard rumours about...??
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Depends what your definition of bad is. It's certainly quite long (40mins) but after the initial field it's not steep. Although it can be boggy.
Take a spare pair of socks would be my advice. Well worth the effort if immaculate sandstone highballs are your bag.
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If anyone is planning on heading to Northumberland for the weekend, and does any surfing, take a board. It's set to be good.
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I really rate Shaftoe but suppose im biased as its my Local venue,I can see how people visiting for the first time may not be impressed as the rock quality is varied and the decent problems are pretty spread out,but Ive had some great sessions there and am still discovering gems here and there,I agree with Richdraws that part of the problem is the local guide which seriously needs revamping.
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Cheers for all the info guys..
Looking at a map Shaftoe looks ideal for a nearby fix and Kyloe awesome, but probably one for when I've more time.. need to buy the guide and check it all out I 'spose.. Some of the pics I've seen of Shaftoe seem to show some good probs so I'm psyched! ..I guess 'cos I rate places like west vale and woodhouse (my nearest bouldering) and know how good they can be despite their limitations and bad rep I'm into checking it out..
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really?
I will once again urge you to reconsider and go to one of the major venues...
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really?
yeah, but only because of time restrictions! if I get the chance I' am gonna try and make it to Kyloe-In next weekend (ie the one after easter!!)... looks as though I could be spending quite a bit of time up there soon so will have plenty of opportunity to check out the major crags.. never climbed at Kyloe and Bowden but have heard and seen good things so I'm psyched.. what are these places like in the summer with regards to friction?
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you could also hit Rothley - its pretty close to Shaftoe
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Is Rothley where those little sharp aretes are, near the road. That was loads nicer, a really sweet venue. And is there stuff further left, too?
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As Shafftoe is best for lower to immediate grade range, Nathan can I ask you what grade range you are climbing??,maybe I could reccomend you some problems to try?
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yeah Rothley is where the aretes are was there yesterday ad a great day!! hanging arete is a fantastic v4/5 from sit also some great problems around it!! Yorkshire 8a is the classic traverse with some nice moves in between!
Nathan hit shafto and i don't think it will disappointed even tho Paul b is totally against it!!
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regards to friction found it ok, didn't slip of anything due to it being to hot!!
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given the time constraints I guess its logical however the crag just isn't in the same league as Bowden, Kyloe in, I spent loads of time up at these crags when I lived further North so my view isn't one established by a crap visit where I couldnt find anything. The problems are lower quality, on worse rock and a worse setting its as simple as that still there is the odd problem thats worth a visit.
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still there is the odd problem thats worth a visit.
Name em ????
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Ah well, I guess at the end of the day you have to decide between Negative Nancy and some Postive cool as fuck dudes who are dead hip and stuff. I am not bias at all but its fairly obvious I am right like. ;)
Paul B may not like the WALK in.
I hope everyone sees the irony or I am getting booted to fuck.
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Im with you Richdraws Shaftoe rules for us Hip dudes LOL
Heres a quick vid I made up of Shaftoe this morning for you non believers ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C3xpDaDCjG4
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Now go and watch the beardown productions vid of Northumberland...
yoda - this problem is ok:
(http://www.rockantics.co.uk/php-cgi/gallery/albums/Bouldering/P1010004.sized.jpg)
(but i'd still prefer to be on any of the cave problems at bowden ;))
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looks good Paul, what is it?
liked the beardown vid too! are the probs featured in the current guide?
Yoda, liked the track on yo' vid, mark b and blade? broken hearts looked cool too!
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That's the neb roof, broken hearts goes through the roof to the left from the same start holds.
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nice vid Yoda! still alot more quality problems there than what is shown!! are you sure about the broken hearts grade?? 6b??
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Hey guys thanx for the props for my video,Broken hearts was originally graded by its Daddy Andy Cowley who at the time gave it a tentative grade of 6B/6C It was named after a track by Frank Zappa,Im a weak mo fo, so unfortunately Ive never climbed it, so cant comment on its grade. As I mentioned earlier I edited the vid from footage I had lying around so unfortunately its not that long but Shaun you seem to know the score ;) ie) that theres plenty of classics amongst the dust He He ;D.Hey Nathan the track is by the dub pistols on there new cd Speakers and tweeters.Glad to see you have actually been to Shaftoe Paul I was beginning to doubt it when you said it had a worse setting than Kyloe in LOL,Is the pic of you, Looks cool you picked a good prob there, I have footage of it on my first video that I ever did around 4 years ago..Ill admit the likes of Kyloe and Bowden have better high grade problems, but shaftoe is a quality area for lower/intermediate grade range SPIDERS and should not be dismissed.
Anyway enough yabbering
NE5 video, section 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3U7L55RMDE
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Nice Vid. Is the Font one going to be put up?
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Glad to see you have actually been to Shaftoe Paul I was beginning to doubt it when you said it had a worse setting than Kyloe in LOL,Is the pic of you
:) - yes it is.
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Come on lets face it your CV would look pretty lame, without at least one stumble across the moors of Shaftoe in search of the next Hueco ;D escoteric you bet, but to be fair it has it's treasures, the much publicised Areteland, Font boulder, Neb roof, Cob are all well worth a visit, bejesus even Moon has been and rated it :jaw:
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Sorry I havent replied in a couple of days my computer power supply decided to go pop,Visited Shaftoe yesterday complete with newly aquired shredded tendon (last time I try Blockbuster :( ),just tried a couple of easy problems and took some pics had a great time as usual,Dontfollowme Ill try and put the font video up,thats if Ive got enough space left on youtube,Ive just started to use it so dont know the score,all of the problems we did there were pretty easy,Dont worry Ill post it in the proper section next time ;D