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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: tlr on January 10, 2009, 06:34:54 pm

Title: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: tlr on January 10, 2009, 06:34:54 pm

Great effort by Ryan Pasquill.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=336382 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=336382)

No grade yet though, I wonder why....? :shrug:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Paul B on January 10, 2009, 06:45:48 pm

Another good effort.

piccie here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=105804 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=105804)

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: tlr on January 10, 2009, 06:47:53 pm

Oops, I did check and didn't see anything.

Delete away!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: RobinB on January 10, 2009, 06:49:21 pm

oops - looking at the timestamp, looks like tlr got there first. If the moderators could delete my thread and add my comments here, much appreciated

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: JohnH on January 10, 2009, 06:55:57 pm

Awesome effort  :great:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: willackers on January 10, 2009, 07:29:41 pm

 :great:

Impressive stuff!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Nibile on January 10, 2009, 10:42:24 pm

why did he drag along that rope? :shrug:

a joy to see!!!
bravissimo!!!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: north_country_boy on January 11, 2009, 12:27:38 am

Great Effort!  :bow: That is News!  :great:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Darren S on January 11, 2009, 07:12:47 am

Super fine effort by Ryan.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Palomides on January 11, 2009, 08:06:44 am

That is immense news. A stunning effort.

I bet he downgrades it though.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: jonjon on January 11, 2009, 08:38:38 am

This Winter is shaping up nicely....

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Bonjoy on January 11, 2009, 11:24:02 am

Wow, great effort. Can't think of a better LGP to have bagged than that one!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2009, 11:27:11 am

Quote from: jonjon on January 11, 2009, 08:38:38 am

This Winter is shaping up nicely....

...and just ended, for the mo ;). Until the next cold snap...

P.S. What Bonjoy said.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Ru on January 11, 2009, 11:39:22 am

Quite good, isn't he? Nice one Ryan.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: richdraws on January 11, 2009, 12:07:03 pm

Nicely done! What a fun winter we are having.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: nik at work on January 11, 2009, 12:23:21 pm

Yet more brilliance. I love this.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 11, 2009, 01:01:05 pm

Quote

BOOM!

FUCK ME!  :o :o LEGEND

Shame we lost all the comments from the other thread

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Eddies on January 11, 2009, 01:04:06 pm

Mutant....He's got it all, and so layed back

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: joel on January 11, 2009, 01:28:23 pm

Superb effort!  :bow: Inspirational stuff!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: cofe on January 11, 2009, 03:19:39 pm

jurassic park.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Fiend on January 11, 2009, 06:45:52 pm

Jordan Buys on UKC:

Quote from: Jordan

We were privileged to be able to spot/film Ryan on this magical ascent - really impressive stuff!! He reckoned E9 only(!!) because the crux was protected by pads and was sort of highball but it is definitely a route - he placed 3 pieces of kit between the crux and the top and the finishing moves are no pushover. Ryan found the technical grade to be english 7a for him but recognised at least 7b for anyone of normal height!! He therefore suggested a split garde of E9 7a/b but who knows if he will change his mind after a good night's sleep!!

The moves are pretty simple but very very very very morpho. Each move is way beyond the limits of the average climbers span.

All sounds very sensible (apart from the small issue of other routes being traditionally graded sans mats and grading this one with, although fitting and correct for nu-skool climbing, is a bit of a blip). Pity it sounds so morpho. Dolph repeat then??

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: andy_e on January 11, 2009, 07:07:37 pm

What, not E11?  :lol:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Doylo on January 11, 2009, 08:20:15 pm

Lanky streak off piss. Nice to have some sensible grading.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Eddies on January 11, 2009, 08:42:11 pm

Ryan is a beast, the strongest climber ive seen by far.
Effortless style and a very layed back metality too.

A well deserved ascent by a jolly nice bloke. I only hope he dosent get too many questions about the damn grade!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: dave on January 11, 2009, 10:14:03 pm

awesome fucking welles

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Jaspersharpe on January 12, 2009, 08:24:59 am

Amazing.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: SA Chris on January 12, 2009, 08:36:36 am

Quote from: Doylo on January 11, 2009, 08:20:15 pm

Lanky streak off piss.

Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't  reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: dave on January 12, 2009, 09:08:05 am

do we have a name for this one yet?

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Bonjoy on January 12, 2009, 10:44:10 am

Gerty Berwick i think. It's the name chipped into the rock at the bottom.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: dave on January 12, 2009, 10:47:59 am

we have a winner:

(http://www.cleckheatoncricketclub.com/trophy.jpg)

Worst Route Name Ever

seriously, i hope you're shitting me.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Doylo on January 12, 2009, 11:02:26 am

Quote from: SA Chris on January 12, 2009, 08:36:36 am

Quote from: Doylo on January 11, 2009, 08:20:15 pm

Lanky streak off piss.

Definitely small man's complex there. At least if you can't  reach you can just say it's impossible and do a variation finish. Then downgrade it :)

Nah i just like abusing the Quill even though i love him  :shag:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Fiend on January 12, 2009, 11:10:56 am

What Dave said.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 12, 2009, 12:23:14 pm

I like it, a damn sight better than most recently.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: dave on January 12, 2009, 12:24:42 pm

Are you using paint stripper in a confined space again?

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Blunk on January 12, 2009, 10:54:19 pm

The wall has been tried many times by climbers including Steve McClure, James Pearson, Steve Dunning and Jerry Moffatt to name but a few... Both Moffatt and Dunning thought it would never be climbed, making Ryan's achievement even more impressive.


Wow.

The line looks absolutely stunning in the photos I've seen.

Being rather morpho myself (6'7") I am even more impressed. I have only done a few problems no-one else could manage because of the reachiness involved. There's nearly always a way around a long reach, that the very best climbers have failed on this reallys says something. Respect!

(not to imply any top-level climbers have ever tried any of my obscure variations!)

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: n_man on January 13, 2009, 02:29:25 am

And Moffatt or Dunning are quite tall themselves  :wave:

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Andy F on January 13, 2009, 08:31:17 am

And Stunning has a big span as well, which show's how impressive Ry's ascent is.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: n_man on January 13, 2009, 09:24:44 am

Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Idol eyes on January 13, 2009, 08:02:59 pm

Me and JD tried this on the best conditions ever... JD waltzed it only to fail on the final crux... I struggled to do the start... Wicked piece of wall! Great effort.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Percy B on January 13, 2009, 08:10:56 pm

Quote from: n_man on January 13, 2009, 09:24:44 am

Indeed. Dunne was spied trying it a few times with full out dynos and he was quite a big lad.

I'm not sure Dunney's sort of 'size' was of the helpful kind on this route. It would have helped if he'd been a bit taller.....















........and eaten a bit less at tea-time

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Will Hunt on January 13, 2009, 08:52:38 pm

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10347.0.html)
 :rtfm:
 
;)

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Ste on January 13, 2009, 08:57:02 pm

Really impressive stuff...


The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be  significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.

When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.

Steve

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Will Hunt on January 17, 2009, 05:23:34 pm

Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 17, 2009, 05:34:34 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on January 17, 2009, 05:23:34 pm

Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

No one filming.

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Doylo on January 17, 2009, 05:37:05 pm

Quote from: Ste on January 13, 2009, 08:57:02 pm

Really impressive stuff...


The comments about this route and its morpho nature are a bit miss-leading - Its just plain hard no matter how tall you are. The dyno to the jug is relatively easy, maybe 7b+ from what I remember. The next move (crux) is a desperate move off a terrible edge and would not be  significantly easier for a lanky climber. I would have thought that anyone of average height would have equal chance.

When I tried this route (7 years ago) I couldn't really move on the crux and just gave up.

Steve

Nice one Master Dunning. Fair do's to the Quill then. What a beast!

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 17, 2009, 09:37:26 pm

even heard today he onsighted the hardest section on top-rope. m-o-n-s-t-e-r

Title: Re: Wall left of New Statesman climbed
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 19, 2009, 05:21:31 pm

Quote from: Adam Lincoln on January 17, 2009, 05:34:34 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on January 17, 2009, 05:23:34 pm

Any chance we're going to get video of this soon?

No one filming.

Was wrong about that. There was a couple of camera on him for the ascent. Filmed for Posing Productions.