UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: mark20 on March 22, 2016, 06:06:41 pm
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Some routes were described here in the old Stanage guide but these are grubby and vegetated. The short roofs at the top and some outlying rocks give good bouldering in a lovely setting. It's a bracken jungle in the summer, but a nice shady spot on warmer spring/autumn days. From what I can tell, the approach is access land but the crag isn't, though it's well hidden so I can't see climbing here being an issue. Please be careful as you cross the wall.
Park at Cutthroat Bridge. Walk down the road and go through the gate on the left (there is parking here for 3/4 cars but it's usually full).
The most obvious approach is to follow the track out of the trees for about 15mins until an obvious paths leads rightwards and up the other hillside. Follow this until it flattens out and cross the heathery field to the right to the big drystone wall at where it bends round. Carefully climb over at the fence post that has support from either side.
It is quicker if the bracken is down to cut off the corner - After about 10mins along the track a barbed wire fence drops down to the right, follow this then go down to a small stream. Cross over and go up the hillside opposite, eventually joining a path which leads along the dry stone wall. Climb over at the bend.
The main roof area is down and to the left slightly.
MAIN ROOF AREA
Priddock Roof Left 6B+ The left lip of the roof
Priddock Roof Right 6B The right lip of the roof
Priddock Wall 6A Pleasant wall from sit
Easy layback crack
R Plank 6B+ Roof with mantel
1946 7B Dyno from the big jug to the break
Lucie Zimmel 6B Roof from sit start on the slot
10m to the right is
Tarkus 7A+ From a contorted start at the back of the roof (kneepad) reach out to flakes and power round the lip
JUST BELOW
East India 5+ Little arete from sit
West India 6A Wall to the right from sit
BLOCK 100M BELOW
Space Docking 6C Traverse the lip (no top, or big holds low down) to finish up the prow
Dock Leaf 6B Sit start, flake, to topout without block on left
What's Up Dock? 6A+ 'Prow' on right, no ledge
AREA 200M TO LEFT OF MAIN ROOF AREA
You Priddock! 6A Low start to arete, rocking right onto big foothold 6A
Au Chameau 6C+ Guppy up the arete, no backwall or big foothold
Every Open Eye 6C Nice arete with highball top out
Neil on Tarkus
(https://peakboulderingimages.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/photo/image/1350/standard_DSCN0428.JPG)
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I always thought there must be something up there.
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Nice, tarkus looks decent
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https://vimeo.com/159856710
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None of you are r-man and I claim my £5 off each of you
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Tarkus looks great
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Has anybody found the crag based on the above descriptions?
I went to find this today but despite jumping over the wall in at least 4 places, couldn't find it. From the directions for the shorter route, the wall runs up from the stream before it levels off for a few hundred metres. The wall then kinks a bit before turning 90 degrees left and heads up the hill for a few hundred metres. It then turns 90 degrees right and runs along the top of the moor above the woods for approx 500 metres. Based on this description of the wall, any advice as to where to jump over the wall and how to find the bouldering from there would be appreciated
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https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/53°22'29.3%22N+1°41'19.9%22W/@53.3748111,-1.6910119,414m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x0:0x0!7e2!8m2!3d53.3748125!4d-1.6888511 (https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/53°22'29.3%22N+1°41'19.9%22W/@53.3748111,-1.6910119,414m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x0:0x0!7e2!8m2!3d53.3748125!4d-1.6888511)
Hopefully that link works. Cross the wall here, at the slight bend, and the climbing is down and to the left slightly, just above the tree line
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/53°22'30.3%22N+1°41'22.7%22W/@53.375089,-1.690724,200m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d53.375089!4d-1.689629 (https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/53°22'30.3%22N+1°41'22.7%22W/@53.375089,-1.690724,200m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x0:0x0!8m2!3d53.375089!4d-1.689629)
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Thanks Mark, I used the google pins to find the Main Roof Area. I couldn't find the block 100m below and the area 200m to the left though. Any chance you could post a couple more locations please?
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/42649465871_ed616c1302.jpg)
If the 2 orange lines are the other little crags (mentioned in the old guide) then the 'Dock' block is somewhere on the left and below, as you look out.
Every Open Eye is only just amongst the trees. Try wandering from the main roof area and stay on the edge of the tree line and you should see it.
I imagine this is all much easier before the leaves and bracken are in full force
Cool to hear others checking this place out :2thumbsup:
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Thanks Mark - eventually got back there and found the crag - thanks for the directions. Bracken pretty high at the moment so might be best left until later in the year when it dies back a bit.
Tarkus is good but the crucial flake in the roof is a bit creaky and might benefit from a bit of reinforcement
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Thanks Robin, I glued that other flake up this afternoon. Bracken is a nightmare at the moment!