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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jwi on May 12, 2021, 12:36:05 pm

Title: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: jwi on May 12, 2021, 12:36:05 pm: The world's best at coordination dynos demonstrates some techniques for running across boxes. Click on CC for english subs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT8oQPeJQts
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2021, 01:29:46 pm: How does this factor in with all your recent discussion posts about indoor bouldering, fall training, max hangs etc?? :lol:
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: jwi on May 12, 2021, 01:34:28 pm: :lol: I have no plan what-so-ever getting less bad on coordination dynos. Posting for a friend...
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: Fiend on May 12, 2021, 01:53:02 pm: Of course yes......

Good video tho, clearly explained. And my Tomoa man-crush is back I think.
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: erm, sam on May 13, 2021, 08:35:53 am: Quote
The world's best at coordination dynos
Is he? Or is he the best man at coordination dynos? I love Tomoa so I'm not slagging him off, just wondering if you have forgotten somebody. Obvs Janja, in case anybody isn't sure who I mean.
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2021, 09:16:17 am: I watched, out of passing interest. It's interesting but nothing really revolutionary?
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2021, 10:29:10 am: Agree; disappointingly pedestrian. Luckily, in the Foundry circa 1997 I was coached by Johnny to do moves like this by imagining I was channeling my centre-of-gravity through a plexiglass tube resembling one of those giant bubbles frozen in the instant of its creation.
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: SA Chris on May 13, 2021, 10:40:27 am: Might be aimed at the technically dense youth climbers who only ever fingerboard.
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: Fiend on May 13, 2021, 08:40:45 pm: Wait a minute, gritstone guru and technical wizz who was coached by the greatest gritstone guru and technical wizz who invented coordination dynos decades before they were a thing finds this explanatory video a bit mundane?? Hold the fucking press!!

I thought it was good (as somone who is appalling at the subject matter), and only the "order of feet" bit was something I'd consciously acknowledged before. The rest I'd never thought of clearly.
Title: Re: How to suck less at coordination dynos
Post by: Paul B on May 13, 2021, 09:00:55 pm: Quote from: Johnny Brown on May 13, 2021, 10:29:10 am
Agree; disappointingly pedestrian. Luckily, in the Foundry circa 1997 I was coached by Johnny to do moves like this by imagining I was channeling my centre-of-gravity through a plexiglass tube resembling one of those giant bubbles frozen in the instant of its creation.

I was working one particularly rainy day and can remember walking through the corridor (fire escape rather than the traverse corridor) to find Johnny with two clients getting them to try and jump onto the skirting boards. I remembered Keenus saying his session with Johnny was the best money he ever spent; I think I raised my eyebrows a bit and had another sup of tea.