UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: DaveyDave on March 22, 2014, 02:44:10 pm
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Hi folks,
Whats the crack with these? Everyone ive asked says something different. Do i go for excruciating or uncomfily tight?
Fit like a glove they do. Ps im a 7 in older teams and dragons.
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What size have you tried? I havent found mine have stretched at all and i'm on my 4th pair.
I wear 10's in Dragons, very tight but ok once worn in and 10's in Vapour V's which were perfect from the word go. I tend to use my Vapour V's for trad and long sport routes + indoor.
So maybe go tighter if you want something with a super snug heel, as thats the only thing which i find marks out the dragons over the vapour v's.
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I couldn't fit into 7 Dragons and I wear 8 in Vapour V. I could probably go 7.5 in both though.
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they have a nice shape that conforms well and they dont really stretch so i wouldnt size them down much
I got them uncomfortably tight but nothing unbearable. for the first month they hurt after 5 minutes and I'd have to take them off after every boulder problem but after that month they've broken in perfectly -- just led a 30m trad route in them yesterday without issue.
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I don't think there's much point going really small with these shoes. They work very well fitted "snug". If you find they are not up to the job of what your are working then you probably would be better served getting something more aggressive.
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For me, I wear them pretty tight, but not stupidly, the same size as my anasazis -10.5
I'm a smallish 12 in street shoes.
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Depends what you want them for, I'm 45 in trainers and I have a pair of 44s for long days, chilled evening solos etc and a pair of 42s or when I want to stand on small footholds.
The 42s are half a size bigger than the smallest pair I can possibly fit my feet into if that helps. The tight pair start off pretty painful but after 2 sessions or so they're ok for anything single pitch.
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Cheers guys! I'll go tight but not agony. I'll try not to open the xsedge/xsgrip can of worms :worms:
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Cheers guys! I'll go tight but not agony. I'll try not to open the xsedge/xsgrip can of worms :worms:
No need to since you donīt have the choice. The new ones are only made with xs edge rubber if you wanīt em with the xs grip2 you need to either buy them used or get a DeLorean.
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No need to since you donīt have the choice. The new ones are only made with xs edge rubber if you wanīt em with the xs grip2 you need to either buy them used or get a DeLorean.
good on them. they are absolutely fantastic edging shoes - i've put my whole bodyweight confidently on crystals you could barely identify with your naked eye in these things.
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i know, i always wondered why they would make such a stiff shoe with xs grip2 anyway.