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news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by cheque on Today at 09:40:59 am »
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shootin' the shit / Re: Climbers recovering from covid
« Last post by webbo on Today at 09:37:54 am »
I don’t know whether this has been mentioned on here but the Nuffield have a free long Covid scheme. I don’t know any details but it is mentioned when you ring their hospital switch board.
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bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by teestub on Today at 08:21:53 am »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview

That is a cracker! About 60 degrees steeper than most other Portland offerings too 😄
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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by edshakey on Yesterday at 11:35:47 pm »
Almost seems like cheating to share Sam's videos in this thread, it'd fill it up!

Excellent film though. Jonny's dedication and commitment is a truly remarkable skill.
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bouldering / Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
« Last post by Bradders on Yesterday at 09:42:50 pm »
Surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet. Lovely video from Sam as ever.

https://youtu.be/q6i8QCic-Ow?si=XV8Sam-aGMO84zXA
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bouldering / Re: Limestone 7B
« Last post by BAndy on Yesterday at 07:48:50 pm »
Does it have to be in or close to the Peak? If not, I highly recommend this:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lighthouse_area-272/force_majeure-365276#overview
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by kc on Yesterday at 07:19:19 pm »
A consequence of some wad rocking up and dispatching a project quickly, abandoned or not is they often have very little interests in what happens afterwards. There are numerous examples of routes left in a poor and filthy state with loose or missing holds, rusty cleaning bolts and even missing hangers/bolts. If I were to give a project away it would ideally go to someone willing to take ownership and pride in what they are going to leave when done.
I struggle to think of many worthy candidates to share my secret projects with.
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beta - bouldering / Re: what's Hot Toddy RH?
« Last post by Bonjoy on Yesterday at 05:36:24 pm »
I'd agree with that. It depends where you want to set the bar though. Some areas/guides are more generous than others. Too much in either direction is either not very useful, or a recipe for disappointment.
In practice though most three star probs fall down to some extent on at least one of those measures, nature rarely produces perfection. Often stunning visual line have grim holds or moves, but end up with the stars anyway. My preference is for imperfection of line with great moves if I have to pick a defect. As such I'm quite tolerant of problems with simple coherent rules to fix their greatness e.g. defined start holds as opposed to simply a stand/sit start.
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chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by stone on Yesterday at 03:43:36 pm »
rjtrials, I think you have perfectly summed up what I also understood current UK sport route development etiquette to be. First off -massive thanks to you and all route developers -we wouldn't have sport routes without you!

I suppose the point I was trying to make was that there have been cases where I really don't think current etiquette has served the climbing community well at all. I was hoping that, if it was widely agreed that it wasn't fit-for-purpose, then a different etiquette might instead be adopted (as I described). My impression is that you consider the current etiquette is how things ought to be -that's a valid (and perhaps majority) opinion.

I suppose in my own mind, I view people who "steal" overly protracted closed projects more favourably than I do people who don't open them freely after they are several years old. But no one ought to mind what I think.
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shootin' the shit / Re: snooooooooooooowboarding
« Last post by galpinos on Yesterday at 03:31:14 pm »
Gers takes a lot of avalanche controlling and there is a convex slope with a west facing aspect in the micdlle of the bowl near the lift that is pretty problematic late season.

I still think I know everyone in resort but faces change quickly and I left in 2008! My wife is reluctant to go Flaine as I am so painful when there apparently.....
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