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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Duma on November 14, 2016, 01:11:11 pm

Title: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Duma on November 14, 2016, 01:11:11 pm
We're off to South Africa next summer, and my partner is interested in getting a training plan over the next few months to help be in shape for the trip.

She's currently bouldering around the mid 6's, but has climbed up to low 7's in previous seasons

Anyone got any recommendations of who to approach? If it was me I'd prob just read around what others have done and work something out for myself, but I think for both ease, discipline, and motivation she'd like an assessment and plan from someone. My first thought for this sort of thing would be the Lattice board folk - but dunno how route focused this is and also seems to be aimed slightly above her current level? Tommy? Remus?

SW based, but she's happy to travel up to Sheffield or similar for assessment.

Any recommendations gratefully received.
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Ti_pin_man on November 14, 2016, 02:06:06 pm
you could do either, if shes been up in the 7's and is back to the 6's currently then she probably already knows how to get herself back there BUT if she also wants somebody to push her a little and structure it better then a coach could, would and should do that. 

I tried a few different coach's before I chose one, some were well known names but I quickly recognised it wasn't their climbing prowess I was solely after, I needed somebody to understand me as a person and what pushes my buttons to climb better and somebody who understood my job and family commitments.  A decent assessment of my strengths and weaknesses and understanding of my goals was essential.  She set me a 3 month program and I hit my goals mid month and then got more in my target grade before the end. 

South East London/Guildford but recommended:   http://www.beclimbing.co.uk/ (http://www.beclimbing.co.uk/)
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Three Nine on November 14, 2016, 02:59:22 pm
We're off to South Africa next summer, and my partner is interested in getting a training plan over the next few months to help be in shape for the trip.

She's currently bouldering around the mid 6's, but has climbed up to low 7's in previous seasons

Anyone got any recommendations of who to approach? If it was me I'd prob just read around what others have done and work something out for myself, but I think for both ease, discipline, and motivation she'd like an assessment and plan from someone. My first thought for this sort of thing would be the Lattice board folk - but dunno how route focused this is and also seems to be aimed slightly above her current level? Tommy? Remus?

SW based, but she's happy to travel up to Sheffield or similar for assessment.

Any recommendations gratefully received.

Is this for bouldering or routes? If routes, i'd be happy to do it for nowt, if she were actually going to put the effort in to do it. Have many years' experience of copying Barrows. Would not be competent to do for boulders.


Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Duma on November 14, 2016, 03:02:32 pm
Bouldering, but cheers for the offer. She'll def put the effort in if she believes in the plan.
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Three Nine on November 14, 2016, 03:36:12 pm
Mason?
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Duma on November 14, 2016, 04:09:52 pm
Does monkey boy do training plans? No mention on his website (http://davidamason.co.uk/) that I can see?
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: remus on November 14, 2016, 05:52:54 pm
My first thought for this sort of thing would be the Lattice board folk - but dunno how route focused this is and also seems to be aimed slightly above her current level? Tommy? Remus?

Cool to hear Lattice springing to mind :)

As you say, our plans are generally aimed at people bouldering around low 7s and upwards so Im not sure we'd be the best option for your partner at the mo. Knowing your partner, I think someone a bit local would be a good shout so she could work in a few coaching sessions along with the training plan. Im not too familiar with coaches working down here but I'll give Tom a nudge and see if there's anyone he'd recommend.
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Murph on November 14, 2016, 08:01:02 pm
Does monkey boy do training plans? No mention on his website (http://davidamason.co.uk/) that I can see?

He certainly does coaching and it looks like he will help with training plans too. 

https://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/11-coaching/david-mason/
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Duma on November 15, 2016, 12:27:55 pm
My first thought for this sort of thing would be the Lattice board folk - but dunno how route focused this is and also seems to be aimed slightly above her current level? Tommy? Remus?

Cool to hear Lattice springing to mind :)

As you say, our plans are generally aimed at people bouldering around low 7s and upwards so Im not sure we'd be the best option for your partner at the mo. Knowing your partner, I think someone a bit local would be a good shout so she could work in a few coaching sessions along with the training plan. Im not too familiar with coaches working down here but I'll give Tom a nudge and see if there's anyone he'd recommend.

Haha, "my partner" sounds like a well weird turn of phrase now! Cheers for the help anyway mate.

Does monkey boy do training plans? No mention on his website (http://davidamason.co.uk/) that I can see?
He certainly does coaching and it looks like he will help with training plans too. 
https://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/11-coaching/david-mason/

Thanks Murph, will pass it on.
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Paul B on November 15, 2016, 01:46:36 pm
http://www.upgradeclimbing.com/

Suzan Dudink?
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: Wood FT on November 15, 2016, 02:01:08 pm
We're off to South Africa next summer, and my partner is interested in getting a training plan over the next few months to help be in shape for the trip.

She's currently bouldering around the mid 6's, but has climbed up to low 7's in previous seasons

Anyone got any recommendations of who to approach? If it was me I'd prob just read around what others have done and work something out for myself, but I think for both ease, discipline, and motivation she'd like an assessment and plan from someone. My first thought for this sort of thing would be the Lattice board folk - but dunno how route focused this is and also seems to be aimed slightly above her current level? Tommy? Remus?

SW based, but she's happy to travel up to Sheffield or similar for assessment.

Any recommendations gratefully received.

Is this for bouldering or routes? If routes, i'd be happy to do it for nowt, if she were actually going to put the effort in to do it. Have many years' experience of copying Barrows. Would not be competent to do for boulders.

Shrew Hard: The Ultimate guide to Shrewing the fuck out of a route

participants must provide own shrews and always have bare calfs

Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: SA Chris on November 15, 2016, 02:02:57 pm
If she would prefer a female coach there is Katherine Schirr(rrrr)macher as well, but not sure if routes are her stronger point, sure she can cover it all though.
Title: Re: Assessment + training plan reccomendations
Post by: TobyD on November 16, 2016, 09:32:21 am

Shrew Hard: The Ultimate guide to Shrewing the fuck out of a route and screaming c**t at the top of your voice on any unsuccessful attempts

participants must provide own shrews and always have bare calfs

Where is there an enraged shrew emoticon when you need one?
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