UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: jstrongman on October 13, 2009, 02:51:47 pm
-
In the process of building a system board, wondering if anyone has any knowledge of about setting the distance between the holds? is there a formula for setting up a board specific to your height/max reach, lockoff reach etc?
-
no formula, just inspired minds
-
Just wondering if after 7 years there would be any knowledge on this subject that kind people might be willing to share?
I am looking to alter one of my indoor boards to have a system board as it's now winter and I'm too old a bunny to go outside on the Moonboard in the winter after a long day at work.
I guess I really am just after board angles and sizes of the ones you guys own or may have played on?
-
My board is a system 'board' inasmuch as it's fully symmetrical. It 8x8 foot 35 degrees, and has 4 different sets of screw-ons/lego bricks for footholds, and about 140 handholds. I tend to set hand sequences, master them both left and right, and then work them on the different footholds which get progressively smaller, less positive and widely spaced.
The main benefits I've noticed from its symmetry is I can often do a move one way and not it's mirror, and have much greater hand accuracy (eg throwing to a pocket) with one hand. It's allowed me to discover these issues and tackle them in a structured way. I also video myself to compare shoulder stability on maximal moves, and generally notice variations in movement habits between my two sides.
You're welcome to come and play on it if you're in the Kendal area, and as I've just switched focus to route climbing (ie bigger holds), I have about 15 pairs of small symmetrical handholds going spare.
-
I have about 15 pairs of small symmetrical handholds going spare.
I'll take them!
-
The nicest monos in the land:
http://pushergear.com/System-Tile-6-Pack_p_72.html