UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Ged on February 20, 2019, 08:54:21 pm
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After years of managing to avoid going on bouldering trips (apart from 1 day in font 7byars ago), arrival of baby has meant we've decided to go at Easter.
So I'm after a bit of general advice. Will be with semi keen wife (who also likes running) and some mates who also have a little one.
Good area recommendations, that are nice places to hang out with the babies for the day, have quality 7's and easy stuff, and ideally not totally rammed. An absence of used jonnies on the floor would also be nice.
Good other stuff to do, apart from buying a hi viz vest and going to Paris for the day.
Best way to drive there from valais, I seem to remember some knowledge about staying on some further out ring road around Paris that is quite hard to follow?
And last, but most important, how to train!? Aside from the usual fingerboarding and bouldering, is there any specific stuff that's worth doing so I don't get completely destroyed on my first day?
Cheers very much
Ged
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,19618.0.html
:2thumbsup:
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For the drive from Calais I just followed google maps when I went a couple of months ago and it took the outside ring road thing you're talking about. Can't remember the details, but it's something like A16 calais to paris, then get on the N104/A104 that skirts round the east of Paris and follow it all the way to Melun, which is 15 mins from font.
Assuming brexit goes to shit you'll probably need to get a green card.
Training wise, make sure your elbows and shoulders are in tip top condition before you go. Font elbow is real.
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I'd honestly advice doing as much outside as you can between now and then - lots of circuits with plenty of mantelling involved should see you right.
In terms of areas, all the popular areas will be chokka at Easter and I'm not that ofay with quieter options - maybe someone else can advise?
Plenty of lovely trails for the wife to run though :yes:
https://www.wikiloc.com/trails/running/france/ile-de-france/fontainebleau
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Assuming brexit goes to shit you'll also need an international driving permit, picked mine up at the Post Office last week, it looks like something from the 1950s.
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Lots of push-ups.
Follow google maps - usually A16/A1 to Paris then as Remus said.
Save some finger skin for the trip and try not to trash them on the first few days.
Don't worry about grades too much - it can be a bit of a shock when you can't get up a 5 ;).
All the popular areas are obviously great. The guidebooks are generally pretty good at highlighting family friendly areas.
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For the drive from Calais I just followed google maps when I went a couple of months ago and it took the outside ring road thing you're talking about. Can't remember the details, but it's something like A16 calais to paris, then get on the N104/A104 that skirts round the east of Paris and follow it all the way to Melun, which is 15 mins from font.
Yeah, it's that. If your drive involves a little dogleg on the East of Paris then you're en-route.
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I don't know why people are so scared of the Peripherique, in my (20 odd trips) experience it's totally fine and way easier navigation-wise. You just keep going south from Calais, get on "Peripherique Est", then keep going till you see the sign for the A6 and turn off.
First few trips I did we always tried to avoid it, always got lost took ages etc. One time I flew out on my tod, missed a turnoff and ended up with no option to do the Peripherique and realised there was nothing to be scared of.
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I don't know why people are so scared of the Peripherique, in my (20 odd trips) experience it's totally fine and way easier navigation-wise. You just keep going south from Calais, get on "Peripherique Est", then keep going till you see the sign for the A6 and turn off.
First few trips I did we always tried to avoid it, always got lost took ages etc. One time I flew out on my tod, missed a turnoff and ended up with no option to do the Peripherique and realised there was nothing to be scared of.
I'd second that, did the same thing, do this version whenever I can't be bothered to navigate the other options, plus you also get to see Paris and experience the crazy motorcyclists. I would say it isn't really a good option for very nervous drivers though.
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For the drive from Calais I just followed google maps when I went a couple of months ago and it took the outside ring road thing you're talking about. Can't remember the details, but it's something like A16 calais to paris, then get on the N104/A104 that skirts round the east of Paris and follow it all the way to Melun, which is 15 mins from font.
Yeah, it's that. If your drive involves a little dogleg on the East of Paris then you're en-route.
If it's the route where you turn off shortly after passing under the airport runway, then that's what we do.
I think we ended up on the Peripherique on our first trip (when we navigated using print off maps) and I'm surprised we didn't die. All concept of lanes dissolved and I felt like I was in mad max or something.
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Sand your fingers a bit every day for a week or so before you go.
Take those cotton gloves to sleep in with Climb On or similar on your tips every night when you're there.
Stop climbing before your skin gets too thin every day.
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La Francilienne is the circular route that involves A104/N104 plus other bits
It used to be poorly signposted, especially getting on to it from the A1, which is why it was so easy to get wrong; but this has been sorted
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Isn't getting lost while trying to avoid the mythically dreadful Peripherique what going to Font is all about?
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Cheers everyone.
More tips on good areas much appreciated. Lots of problems close together sounds good. Long walk ins not a problem.
So how does one Font-proof their elbows and shoulders? Perhaps I'll start another topic on DTandI
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Bakery in Mily la Foret, think it's Au four du Moulin, is amazing - well worth seeking out if you are remotely nearby - think market day is Thursday and the market is decent too.
On markets, the square in the centre of Fontainebleau has been refurbished recently and hosts a nice market. Pretty much what you'd expect - good cheeses/fresh produce plus fashion tat.
Absolutely massive Carrefour in Villiers en Bierre if you want a huge supermarket.
Used johnnies is pretty much a Bas Cuvier exclusive
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There's a smaller Intermarche on the D948 just between Milly La Foret and Noisy Sure Ecole too. Much less of a time-thief than tramping round the mega mall Carrefour.
As for tactics, agree with all body-related stuff. Exercise restraint as much as poss, don't go through your tips on day one, leave some in the tank for the next day, try to plan rest days as appropriate.
Obviously bleau.info is a godsend for ticklist planning and beta - as well as avoiding the standard heartbreaker of finding your send invalidated by having broken some arbitrary rule on the problem like not using a hold that's within reach or something.
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Oh, and those little c50cm square carpet sample things you can get from the flooring shop are a good tip too - we once bought 4 or 5 and took them. Very useful for cleaning boots when climbing, and for standing on if you're off the mats spotting.
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Easter will be frickin rammed. It depends how much that bothers you, but I've explored a lot of different areas (had 10 weeks in Font just in the last 3 years, mainly in the summer). I reckon if I was there at Easter with a baby I would suggest:
- Potala (will be reasonably busy but a nice spot with good easy stuff and excellent reds)/Cathedrale (quest off from Potala to do Coup de Torchon assis 7a+)/Le 111 (two brilliant 7s also near Potala that I doubt get much traffic. One is fluttery)
- La Feuillardière/Rocher du Télégraphe (get psyched for what baby will be crushing in a couple of yrs i.e. the mega kids circuits at Feuillardière/quest around for the excellent 7a-7bs in the 7's and 8's guidebook. Le Cadeau is ace and straightforward for a 7a+. Coup de Tonerre is nice n steady for 7a, Crossfit is basic pulling).
- Rocher des Demoiselles. Long walk (but flat) which sees off the crowds. Some good, mainly mid-harder 7s. Walk in from the Rocher du Mauvais Passage end and you can do Peter Pan (best 7b+ in le foret IMO, likely to have people camped out beneath it at Easter) and Nadine (trad climber's 7a up a sweet pod).
- Restant du Long Rocher. Nice spot with attractive pockety rock though a little cramped in at the start of the circuit. Black star 7a (Le Calice - looks better than it climbs) and some other decent easy 7s. Nip in and do Monaco (class 7b at Rocher des Princes) on way home.
Running
Assuming your wife likes more interesting/technical trails, the blue trail around Elephant (11km) is a must. Elephant itself will be rammed, but nearby Manoury is quiet and has harder 7s. Also Elephant North has a few good looking easier 7s, including Matador (quite high). You could also check out Mont Simonet for somewhere quieter, but I didn't think there was much there.
Various loops that take in part of the 25 bosses route around the Trois Pignons. I've done the whole thing once (17km) in the wet and it's great fun. It's marked, but it's worth having a GPS track as it gets confusing in places, especially around Potala/Cathedrale/JA Martin.
Driving
Just follow whatever the Satnav tells you. Peripherique is fine unless it's rush hour. Last couple of times we've ended up on the N6/A5 into Melun as we stay just to the SE of Fontainebleau itself and that has the advantage of saving you some tolls.
Supermarket/food
The best medium sized supermarket is the Carrefour Market very near to the Fontainebleau-Avon train station. Other top tip is the BP petrol station on the weird roundabout on the west side of Font is open when other places are closed, it's quickly accessible and sells a decent range of bits and pieces. I.e. if you just want to nip in somewhere to resupply on cheese/cold beer.
Other stuff
Moret-sur-Loing for waffle place above the river and best pizza place on small roundabout over the bridge.
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So how does one Font-proof their elbows and shoulders?
pressups
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How old are the two kids? And do you have any constraints on how they like to be moved around?
Ours never really got into the swing of the papoose and is frustratingly wedded to taking her naps (except if she's at nursery) in her pram. So if it was me I'd be looking for pram friendly places. Also, going to Font at Easter and asking for non-rammed crags might mean that you end up at some real esoteric stuff. Plus, depending on the size of your car, if you have to fill it with lots of baby shiz then you might end up not being able to take as much foam, so going to crags where there will invariably be other climbers who might be on what you want to try could be a good thing.
I've seen a bloke pushing a pram around Isatis. Some of the sandier approaches will make that impossible. I've never seen a rubber at Cuvier - in fact, when we went one year there was Nalle and co handing out bin liners and litter grabbers and there was nothing left for us to pick up! Actually not a thing! It would be a perfect crag to go to during a first trip. It's a big crag so isn't too bad at absorbing the crowds that it attracts.
I'd also be looking at places with lots of problems in a close proximity to each other so as to reduce the amount of moving around you do during the day. And I might also be inclined to tick fewer individual problems but to put more effort into working them. Thus far my Font trips have been sans-family and I've concentrated on ticking off lots of classics that I can do quickly. This thread should suit your grade range - https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26843.msg546205.html#msg546205
Mauvais - a short walk but don't remember it being family friendly.
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As Ged said walking not a problem I assumed little baby in backpack or similar. If you’re looking for pushable venues then all of my suggestions bar Potala are wack!
Cuvier is minging. Sadly Isatis is going the same way. I wouldn’t take my kids there now. In the last couple of years there seems to be a lot more bog roll and litter.
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Isatis, specifically warming up there (and even more specifically white 12!), should not be missed if you’ve not been to Font before.
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More running info.
Here's a website from the 90s with some route suggestions for running.
http://fabricesueur.free.fr/fontainebleau.html
The one T_B mentions around L'Elephant isn't on there but is very good. Blue markings.
The 25 bosses is also great. Marked in red. There is also a short cut via Diplodocus marked red and white which cuts the route down by a few kms.
The blue route from Canche aux Mericers is less hilly than the ones above. From the parking it heads off right towards l'Telegraphe and the full loop goes to Gorge Aux Chats and back. There are two junctions on the way out which head South and cut the route shorter and join the route on the way back.
The route on the website which starts around Rocher de la Reine I haven't found any markings for so may no longer exist as a marked route.
I've not tried any others yet so don't know if they're marked or not.
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Roche aux oiseaux can be empty when Roche aux sabots is rammed. The way in isn't sandy.
If you hit Paris after 10am and before 4pm during the week, it's quicker to take the peripherique.
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Cheers good knowledge, we are on a morning tunnel so that'll work well
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Don't blame me if there's an accident and it takes all day!
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Heh Ged :wave:
Been quite a few years since I’ve been and I am under the impression that I’d find the piles of :shit: at the more popular areas depressing. However, pre kids etc... I went there a lot. Always found if you were prepared to walk or drive away from the obvious spots you could avoid the hordes. Gros Sablons and Rocher Fin come to mind immediately as being quiet areas with class problems.
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Easter is a busy time, but the crowds are definitely concentrated around specific areas
We went to Buthiers Canard right in the middle of the busy period at Easter last year and I had the crag to myself while the rest of the family did less scary stuff
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Heh Ged :wave:
Been quite a few years since I’ve been and I am under the impression that I’d find the piles of :shit: at the more popular areas depressing. However, pre kids etc... I went there a lot. Always found if you were prepared to walk or drive away from the obvious spots you could avoid the hordes. Gros Sablons and Rocher Fin come to mind immediately as being quiet areas with class problems.
Bloody hell, where were all you naysayers when I was asking where to go for my Easter holiday! ;D
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Always found if you were prepared to walk or drive away from the obvious spots you could avoid the hordes. Gros Sablons and Rocher Fin come to mind immediately as being quiet areas with class problems.
The main sandy area of Rocher Fin is anything but quiet, especially after a shower. If it wasn't for the hoardes, it would be the perfect area with a young family: open, flat and sandy, with good easy circuits and a handful of decent harder things.
If you go down in to the trees, you can get away from the crowds but it might not be so family friendly.
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Hi Ged,
I'd second oiseux as a great off the beaten track yet reasonably accessible area. We also really liked Rocher de la Reine, some great problems, lovely ambiance and Hotline is there! Franchard Sablons is nice although slow to dry, the far end of Isatis (around Iceberg) is quiet with some great problems and JA Martin around L'Etrave is now very open and sunny as a lot of trees have been felled.
Hopefully Bonny isn't mobile yet. We lost Kit on the forest near Sabots when he was 1 or 2. It was only 5 minutes or so but felt like a lifetime. Now he's 14, it would be a blessing!
As you would probably guess with me, I much prefer the less well known, off the beaten track areas. Of the more frequented, Buthiers and Cuisiniere would be my pick.
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I think Canche aux Merciers (https://bleau.info/canche) is a really great area for easier circuits - the boulders tend to be smaller with good landings, some decent boulders in the low 7s and very child friendly.
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Petit Bois was excellent for kids and generally dead quiet when we were there last summer. Nice and shady if it's a bit hot too.
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I think Canche aux Merciers (https://bleau.info/canche) is a really great area for easier circuits - the boulders tend to be smaller with good landings, some decent boulders in the low 7s and very child friendly.
Sadly a bit too child friendly, when we went there there was a busload of school kids all over the place. If there are busses in the car park, might be best to head over the road to Bois Rond (I think it's just across from there?)
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Rocher de la reine can be quiet when Bois Rond and Canche aux merciers are heaving. Canche is also always busy on Wednesday afternoon as it's the local schoolkids sports day.
I like Rocher Fin but I wouldn't want to push a pushchair there.
After nearly 10 years in the forest the only :shit: I've seen was under a slab at Buthiers Canard.....Lagers! Mind you I avoid anywhere busy at Easter.
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Canche is also always busy on Wednesday afternoon as it's the local schoolkids sports day.
Could well have been then! We were the only people at Bois Rond when we went.
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Rocher de la reine can be quiet when Bois Rond and Canche aux merciers are heaving. Canche is also always busy on Wednesday afternoon as it's the local schoolkids sports day.
I like Rocher Fin but I wouldn't want to push a pushchair there.
After nearly 10 years in the forest the only :shit: I've seen was under a slab at Buthiers Canard.....Lagers! Mind you I avoid anywhere busy at Easter.
I can't believe you have only seen one shit, my perception was that around Isatis if you walked out of the bouldering area, lots of boulders had turds and paper under them, this was last year, but really only reinforces what has been happening for years. I stayed on the Cuvier bivouac site the last night before I shut, the party was lets say quite good, but the shit around the site was not. I've stayed many time at the bivouac at Bourron-Marlotte and couldn't believe the people that wandered of into the woods with toilet paper even thought there was a toilet, admittedly a pit of horror, provided. My pessimistic view view is that the freedom of the forest will be curtailed in the future.
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One more question. There seems to be dozens of guidebooks to choose from. Any suggestions?
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7&8s + Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc combo
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2 x Montchausse guides - the purple one and the "off piste" one.
A good close scale map of the area is useful too, helpful if you're trying to find parking areas and I guess trails for running.
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The géoportail app is useful for this.
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7&8s + Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc combo
Going at Easter I'd advocate getting the Top Secret Jingo Wobbly over Fun Bloc; Top Secret (whilst by no means detailing areas that are actually secret in any way) will help you avoid the classic areas, which I'd think will be rammed.
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I went to Font at Easter with the family for about seven years until recently, we went to Sabot every year, sometimes more than once, and the only time it was ever really bad was on an Easter Monday. Sure there's a number of folk there but mostly holidaying famillies in the same boat so it's a beach like vibe, lots of kids pottering around and a few locals just getting on with things and often dispensing good beta, although almost inevitable that a UK uni group will turn up.
We went to Cuvier and Isatis once each which was enough for both venues to be blackballed
JA Martin, Canche and Canon were all areas that suited everyone
Diplodocus and Potala are good family venues but with not much to do for the 7s climber but some nice low grade circuits.
Never got on with the Montchauuse guides, seem quite dated now. The JW guides are great, I have both but have mostly visited the areas in Fun Block.
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7&8s + Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc combo
Going at Easter I'd advocate getting the Top Secret Jingo Wobbly over Fun Bloc; Top Secret (whilst by no means detailing areas that are actually secret in any way) will help you avoid the classic areas, which I'd think will be rammed.
I'd probably go with Top Secret too. Should probably just be called Fun Bloc 2, since it includes some of the forest's most famous areas like Cuvier Rempart, Petit Bois and Dame Jouanne.
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Heh Ged :wave:
Been quite a few years since I’ve been and I am under the impression that I’d find the piles of :shit: at the more popular areas depressing. However, pre kids etc... I went there a lot. Always found if you were prepared to walk or drive away from the obvious spots you could avoid the hordes. Gros Sablons and Rocher Fin come to mind immediately as being quiet areas with class problems.
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Bloody hell, where were all you naysayers when I was asking where to go for my Easter holiday! ;D
. Ha! I love Font can’t wait to get back there one day... I think you’ll have a cracking time... Sounds like Rocher Fin has gained popularity.. Gros sablons will still be quiet though I reckon.
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Mont simonet is a nice smaller venue which is relatively easy to get to and has a few nice low 7s
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Just back from the trip and HD a great time. Thanks for all the tips. If anyone is in a similar situation in the future, hope anybof this helps.
Over Easter weekend the place was pretty busy, but it was easy enough to escape the massive crowds. As long as you're OK with sharing the place with a few others, I don't think it was a problem. Sabots, 95.2, isatis and cuvier were the only properly busy places we found.
JA Martin was great, the orange cirvuit looked superb and enough 7s to keep me happy. Some of the better hard stuff is in the sun though.
Cuisiniere, whilst busy, felt OK. Again, great oranges and the harder stuff there blew my mind.
Franchard hautes-plaines was a nice slightly more off the beaten track venue. Not loads of good 7's,but enough for a day. Wish I'd found the bloc.fr problem earlier in the day. I wandered over to isatis and it was absolutely rammed whilst we had hautes-plaines in peace and quiet.
On the last day we stumbled across restant de long rocher, just because it was the nearest venue to where we were staying. I had the Red circuit to myself, which is a really good circuit. A bunch of good looking 7's and good looking blue and orange circuit too
We will be back