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81
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on March 26, 2024, 02:44:49 pm »
Someone needs to fly Tomoa out to burden. I reckon he would piss it with the new method.

I wouldn't be surprised if Tomoa could piss most boulders out there.
82
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Liamhutch89 on March 26, 2024, 02:38:41 pm »
It's still rewarding to develop a project and not get the FA! I've been psyched to let others get FA's on things I've spent time and money developing. It's good to feel that my time and effort produced something that benefitted the local climbing community (more so than the actual FA in my mind).
83
Obviously walls would never do this, but I find phones really annoying. Iv gone to climb a problem before only to find a mobile phone propped up on a hold facing the opposite wall filming someone. I imagine walls love it, lots of free media creation

Worst experience was some middle aged guy in tie dye shorts setting off to climb a problem that conflicted with a family friend already on the wall. I'd politely alerted him to the fact they'd interupt each other. He was inpolite to a level that represented an unprecedented amount of value he must have placed on climbing some arbitrary warm-up problem
85
The increasing popularity of liquid chalk, and the consequent increasing popularity of leaving your liquid chalk bottle on the mats for me to roll my ankle on. See also phones and massive 1 litre metal water bottles.
86
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by SA Chris on March 26, 2024, 01:03:12 pm »
Why would they not think this is a fantastic idea?

Especially if they get a brucey bonus from their sponsors for a big number FA.
87
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by petejh on March 26, 2024, 11:43:09 am »
Yep totally. In some ways it operates as market of supply and demand. Where the route developers are suppliers and other climbers not involved in route development are the demand.

The incentives for suppliers are that they get to enjoy the reward (mostly in internal satisfaction) of getting an FA and seeing it enjoyed by others. Take away this reward too often and the motivation for developers to develop - as in actually do the donkey work usually required to make a good sport route, not just the climbing which we all know any wad can do easily - goes away. If enough developers think it isn't worth developing stuff that's hard (for them), then the wads would have to do the donkey work every time they wanted something hard to climb. Which most wads are, to put it undiplomatically, shit at and too lazy to do - or more diplomatically because of the opportunity cost of not climbing other cool stuff.

88
chuffing / Re: closed project etiquette
« Last post by Bonjoy on March 26, 2024, 11:35:29 am »
It's common to hear (especially on podcasts) the very best boulderers arguing that everything should be an open project. This strikes me as really not the egalitarian ideal it tends to get justified as. Obviously ~8C climbers would like all lines to be  open projects, so they can swan around hoovering up everything in their wake, without ever having to waste training days going out looking and prepping new lines themselves. Why would they not think this is a fantastic idea?
In the long run there is an opportunity cost to spending lots of days looking and prepping, and a benefit to the climbing community. Arguing against the developer having some short grace period to try the project is pretty mercenary I think. It also leads to developers sitting for years on undocumented new venues, rather than sharing early.

I agree Pete re trad projects.
89
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by edshakey on March 26, 2024, 11:33:19 am »
Seb Berthe has climbed Bon Voyage

Quote
Incredibly happy and proud to have climbed Bon Voyage, 9a trad (E12) 🤯🥳🥰 third ascent after James Pearson and @adam.ondra !

I first tried Bon Voyage in April 2023 for half an hour after my flash ascent of “Le Voyage” and I immediately fell in love with the route, and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024.
The notion that on this wall, a route could be freeclimbed on gear, is akin to a magic trick 🧙‍♂️ A big congratulations to the magician James  (@onceuponaclimb), for having the vision and perseverance to see through his "Bon Voyage" till the end!

I spent more or less 8 sessions in total on the route and this was definitely an ups and downs process... I truly enjoyed it and had to try really hard to make it happen ! More info to come soon about the whole story!

📷 from @solinekentzel 🙏😘

All the attempts and the send were filmed and a fullspecial movie of the process is in preparation 🎥🎬🎞 stay tuned!

Thanks to all those who helped and support me with this process: Soline,  @jeanelielugon @miquelmathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, @antonin.rhodes , @taylormadeholds , @francocookson , @jacopolarcher ,Lionel , and all the others… Thank you! 🥰
 

Did I beat remus this time??  :lol:
90
news / Re: significant repeats
« Last post by crimpinainteasy on March 26, 2024, 11:28:46 am »
Someone needs to fly Tomoa out to burden. I reckon he would piss it with the new method.
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