|
|
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
71
« Last post by Aussiegav on April 22, 2024, 07:34:37 am »
Well Duma.
Is this your celebration ritual? Pint, pickled egg, and pork pie in the crown on the way home.
Monday -
Complete rest day. Felt rubbish. Upper respiratory tract & right lung infections . On antibiotics for next 5 days.
Tuesday
Sick & recovery
Wednesday
Sick & recovery
Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 76kg.
.
Friday
Still coughing a lot of phlegm up.
Saturday
Stoney Garage, managed to get an afternoon session. First time I’ve climbed at Stoney and first time outside climbing since my operation and October last year. Had a great afternoon.
Flashed four routes at the right hand end.
The last stop. 5b.
Just end it. 6a+
End,stop, finale. 6b
Nowt about change. 6b
Elbow felt good felt awesome to be out climbing again.
Sunday
spent the day in Liverpool. Then peloton ride in the evening.
72
« Last post by Duma on April 22, 2024, 07:22:05 am »
Nice work Duma. Which Crown was it for the pint? Churchill?
Yup, the discerning Cheddar climbers' pit stop of choice!
73
« Last post by monkoffunk on April 22, 2024, 06:59:04 am »
M - Busy overnight at work. Totally exhausted and slept under about 1530. Only rest, yoga and meditation to avoid getting too wired to sleep at night.
T - Actually slept ok and woken up at 0700 by daughter which was probably useful. Physio stuff early in day, pushups, grip reverse bicep curls and external shoulder rotations. Have been struggling with prescribed lock offs but sort of ‘duh’ moment watching Alex Puccio’s one arm pull up reel. Cracked out the extra heavy theraband to meet my level of weakness. Three pull up bar one arm locks with assistance, 8 seconds for each arm at quarter lock, and then a further three at half lock. It’s a start! Yoga.
W - Gym. Deadlifts to 100kg, not above as I think my form is slightly off and want to get someone who knows what they are doing to look before trying harder. Basically I think I’m doing the right steps but after engaging the scapulars and starting to drive with the legs I feel like my lower back takes slightly more than it should due to the weight leaving the ground later than it should. Might be form, might just not have built up enough. Weighted pull ups to +22.5kg x5, next time might do something heavier for less reps. Incline dumbbell press, new one to me but have some undercut projects. One arm rows. Hammer curls. Ran out of time! Yoga.
T - Yoga.
F - Portland after work. Amazing conditions beautiful night with clear sky. T shirt weather until 0100, but didn’t feel too hot. Pulled some moves on a new problem and almost did in a session, falling on last move that felt easy in isolation. One more good go but grabbed a hold slightly wrong and sliced a chunk out of right middle finger on a sharp spike. Tried to tape, but impossible to climb with it. Realised chunk actually was far enough down finger tip to not affect crimping, but next few goes only achieved a good dowsing of blood over the boulder. Down to the last warning on my lamp battery, so sacked it and cleaned off all the blood. Learned some nice micro beta that made the first moves more efficient. I’m optimistic for next time.
Driving home almost became more exciting than I wanted. Was so task fixated on getting to the rock after work that I hadn’t allowed myself enough petrol for return journey. After a series of closed stations I found myself in a 24 hour unmanned Tescos without any means to pay. Thankfully the Shell in Dorchester was manned or I’d have been sleeping in a car park. Avoided a candidate for the lamest epic of the modern world caused by an over reliance on Apple Pay. Home around 0300, so went to sleep skipping the yoga.
S - Yoga
S - Submax hangs. Skin ended play. Yoga.
74
« Last post by monkoffunk on April 22, 2024, 06:55:55 am »
Very possible this has been discussed already, but anyone have any thoughts on Dave Masons ultra low intensity, ultra high volume finger stuff for increasing work capacity? I’ve just listened to his recent Careless Talk podcast, and it sounds appealing as something truly supplemental with no impact on other training. Sounds totally unappealing in terms of time commitment. However, gaining strength to a certainly level is easy for me as it’s my most accessible training modality, but endurance isn’t. Going climbing is a luxury and my session stamina is so low. Would be nice to be making more of a limited resource, maybe by using other downtime.
For those who haven’t heard, it involves a spring based hinge pinch block thing which Dave uses low resistance high volume. He says someone like Barrows would get no benefit but for him as a through and through boulderer there could be significant gains.
Anyway, I don’t know I could hit the hours he suggests you need, but also hard to commit to something without much evidence beyond one person.
75
« Last post by GazM on April 22, 2024, 05:18:29 am »
Nice work Duma. Which Crown was it for the pint? Churchill?
76
« Last post by andy popp on April 22, 2024, 05:17:11 am »
Andy, I hope you don't mind, but I have quoted your post here https://climbing-history.org/climber/2047/cliff-phillips as I thought it was a lovely piece.
Yes, of course. No problem at all.
77
« Last post by IanP on April 21, 2024, 11:05:47 pm »
Janja has climbed the Fontainebleau big 5 in a day , first time in Font. Not really sure how big an achievement it is but sounds pretty impressive to me.
(source Janja's Instagram story)
If it was anyone other than Janja it'd be super impressive, but she's got the Ondra curse where if she's not doing something world class then it seems mundane.
You definitely have a point, but for me it's interesting to see how incredibly capable she is on rock despite not really spending that much time outside relatively (witness her 2 8c os in a week a couple of years back). Maybe after she wins the Olympics again she can look for a new challenge and we might find out what she can do outside if she really tries.
78
« Last post by grimer on April 21, 2024, 09:16:29 pm »
Yes, Cliff would always say hello to me. Which meant a lot.
79
« Last post by Duma on April 21, 2024, 08:42:25 pm »
M -
T - eve, TCA, 150 min. New blue set (7A to 8A). Tried 9, no flashes, did 2 quickly (and 2 others that then got tweaked), 1 after quite a bit of work, lots of tries on 3, couple of tries on 3 others.
W -
T - eve, Cheddar, lion rock. Back on Lion Sleeps Tonight. Arrived a bit later than hoped but good conditions. Felt good warming up and getting clips in, all sections felt ok. Next go got through to undercuts, but fingers pretty cold. Recovered pretty well though, and felt good across the traverse but then blew up on the arete. Struggled on, just about managed last clip but fell going to the letterbox (last significant hand move, although there's a tricky foot move immediately after). Worked out better (but blind) foothold and came down. 3rd go did it, more tired but had done a better job staying warm while belaying. Similar up to the undercuts, worse across the traverse, but better up the arete, chalking up where I was redlining the previous go. Psyched, 8 years to the day since I did Shadow Walker. Pint, pickled egg, and pork pie in the crown on the way home.
F - aft, TCA, 120 min. Feeling a bit broken from yesterday but wanted to get a session in before parenting this weekend. R elbow worryingly tender (L elbow is just ongoing tender). Blues, tried 8, did 4 (including the 2 that were tweaked on Tuesday) and all the moves on another. Surprisingly good session considering how I felt to start with.
S - hr walk up the hill in the sunshine.
S - aft, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 31 min.
71.5 kg.
Excellent week, obviously psyched to do LST but also just so good to see some sun and finally feel like we might be coming out of the endless wet of the last 6 months.
80
« Last post by remus on April 21, 2024, 06:53:28 pm »
Andy, I hope you don't mind, but I have quoted your post here https://climbing-history.org/climber/2047/cliff-phillips as I thought it was a lovely piece.
Pages: 1 ... 6 7 [8] 9 10
|
|
Recent Posts