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1
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by grimer on Today at 07:59:41 pm »
Quote from: Kingy
I think the old slogan 'Bolts in Lancs, no thanks'..

As an aside… had never heard this before, I love this quote!
.

I have this slogan on a T shirt.!

Or maybe it says "No bolts in Lancs, no thanks"?
2
bouldering / Re: Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland
« Last post by PlainCroi$$ant on Today at 07:40:26 pm »
Agree with Reiver’s Logic/Afraid of the Wave
3
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by petejh on Today at 07:26:22 pm »
Quote from: Kingy
I think the old slogan 'Bolts in Lancs, no thanks'..

As an aside… had never heard this before, I love this quote!

Got me thinking..
Bolts in Lancs, no thanks.

Bolts in Welsh trad, we’ll call it Spad!

4
bouldering / Re: Best 7th grade boulder problems in Scotland
« Last post by Wicamoi on Today at 07:23:38 pm »
Fine effort at a list, but there clearly remains scope for further honing when, for example, the one-and-not-even-any-good-move-wonder of Reiver's Logic appears for Lednock while the puzzling, aesthetic delight of Afraid of the Wave remains on the bench.

Pushme Poolewe is too good to be absent. Spanking the Monkey is excellent but belongs to a list of 6th grade problems - we've all climbed harder 5A slabs in Font - but Monkey Spanking is good enough, and just about hard enough, to replace it. Meanwhile Slap Happy does not belong on any list at all, but should be stored inside, shame-facedly, next to ones first botched attempt at a campus board.

I don't expect anyone to agree with me though!
5
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by Fiend on Today at 07:15:56 pm »
Regarding Lancashire gritstone quarries, that is another kettle of fish cos there are no sport routes there (other than the Axe Wound in Wilton but 99.99% of routes are trad). The lack of popularity of previously well travelled trad routes, which is a sympton of the rising popularity of bouldering and sport climbing and indoor walls compared to the quarries' heyday in the 80's is to be lamented. However, bolting loweroffs is not the answer in my view as if you do it for one route, where will it end? There would be no way of preventing more and more bolted loweroffs appearing as it could just be said that vegetation was encroaching which would discourage the cleaning of topouts and climbing traffic ensuring these topouts remain viable. There are no easy answers but in pure trad areas such as the quarries, I think the old slogan 'Bolts in Lancs, no thanks' would get my vote at least. Local activists doing trad routes currently would have more of a feel for this than me but I get the feeling there is no pressing demand for the introduction of bolted loweroffs on selected routes whose topouts are affected by vegetation.
Fair response Ted, and an interesting point that it might discourage people from gardening finishes in general, thus encouraging lower-offs to spread from "unfeasible" finishes to "would have been fine if people kept cleaning but now bolloxed" finishes.

OTOH there is a bright shiny lower-off serving Supercrack and Sobeit and it works very well and, in the words of Potash, they are clearly routes.
6
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by Kingy on Today at 07:06:46 pm »
I'd have thought that Coal Measure Crag at Anglezarke Quarry would be a Lancashire Quarry that fitted the bill.

Oh yes, I forgot about that one. But other than that unique case with a crumbing shale band and where loweroffs were specifically agreed, I wouldn't be in favour of any other further loweroffs in other areas
7
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by Potash on Today at 07:01:25 pm »
I'd have thought that Coal Measure Crag at Anglezarke Quarry would be a Lancashire Quarry that fitted the bill.

8
chuffing / Re: Bolted lower-offs on select trad routes??
« Last post by Kingy on Today at 06:45:01 pm »
Which ones were you thinking of?
Actually just a general discussion. Although I was partly inspired by some of the almost-classic routes in Wilton1 that now look to be Millstone for 15m then Llyn for 5m to finish. Also Mad Dogs at Two Tier which is pretty dusty compared to 1 star 6c nearby and has the Amazon to top out.

I would be in favour of a Mad Dogs loweroff cos its an isolated trad route in a lime area like Pen Trywn where there are similar cases.

Regarding Lancashire gritstone quarries, that is another kettle of fish cos there are no sport routes there (other than the Axe Wound in Wilton but 99.99% of routes are trad). The lack of popularity of previously well travelled trad routes, which is a sympton of the rising popularity of bouldering and sport climbing and indoor walls compared to the quarries' heyday in the 80's is to be lamented. However, bolting loweroffs is not the answer in my view as if you do it for one route, where will it end? There would be no way of preventing more and more bolted loweroffs appearing as it could just be said that vegetation was encroaching which would discourage the cleaning of topouts and climbing traffic ensuring these topouts remain viable. There are no easy answers but in pure trad areas such as the quarries, I think the old slogan 'Bolts in Lancs, no thanks' would get my vote at least. Local activists doing trad routes currently would have more of a feel for this than me but I get the feeling there is no pressing demand for the introduction of bolted loweroffs on selected routes whose topouts are affected by vegetation.
9
uk and eire / Re: Dublin/Wicklow in December
« Last post by AndyR on Today at 06:33:32 pm »
Heading to Dublin early December for work, and was thinking about taking the following weekend to check out some bouldering, but after some beta:
1. Where's best? Glendalough?
2. Is there anywhere for a quick hit between Dublin and Belfast (or Larne) for the Sunday as I head up to get the ferry?
3. What's the craic with staying in a van in the Wicklows? Any good spots, or is it frowned upon etc.?
I've only ever trad climbed in Ireland (Dalkey and Glendalough) so I'm keen to check out some bouldering. If anyone can hook me up with some psyched Dub-bloccers that's be great! I've ordered Dave Flanagan's guide too, which I'm looking forward to receiving.
Thanks all!
Glendalough ( Glendo) is prob the best place for a visit as Pete mentions above - easy (non-bog) access and good concentration of problems. If you have wellies then Glenmacnass and Lough Dan are also good spots.

Re quick hit, then Portrane is your best bet - steep, weird shaly limestone on a pebble beach about 30 mins north of Dublin - not exactly a destination venue (!!) but I have spent many hundreds of hours there, so it does have its charms…

Re vans - no idea. Prob best to email The Flan and ask him - his email should be in the guide.
Have fun.
10
chuffing / Re: Topic split: Stealth bolts on Anglesey
« Last post by Fiend on Today at 06:27:57 pm »
Cross-posting this over here (where I should have asked the question...)

Quote
Now you can answer my prior question: are all the new bolts drilled and cemented there? And do you think any have been added, or are they just replacing old / removed bolts?

Yes they’re cemented, and yes they will have had the placement drilled to accept the resin and the bolt. It’s not possible to say 100% for certain, without being there during placement, whether or not every one of them has been drilled because there *might* have been a nice convenient 12mm diameter 100mm deep hole in the part of the crack where the bolt is placed. Allowing it to have had the resin pumped in and then push in the bolt by hand (they aren’t designed to be hammered due to being stainless). But what do you think the likelihood is of that…

So there you are. Mountain crag trad-climbing with resin bolts protecting. Rhoscolyn sea cliff-climbing on resin bolts.
That’s what we’re doing. I’m fine with it where it climbs well. What I’m not fine with is what appears to me to be a sort of complicit wilful ignorance surrounding these bolts. I think we should be honest about what these pieces of protection are, not spinning people some bullshit about them being pegs.

Stealth bolts on mountain crags too (Clogwyn Yr Adar and Castell Cidwm (the things at Cidwm are identical to the things at Adar, I wasn't peering too closely on the Central Wall crux (slopers in the sun!!) to check for resin glue....).

Next question is: Who is doing all this??
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