UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: r-man on November 15, 2005, 06:26:11 pm

Title: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: r-man on November 15, 2005, 06:26:11 pm

Quote

Lee Sheftel, 59, Climbs 5.14
 
 

by Dougald MacDonald


Fifty-nine-year-old Lee Sheftel has redpointed The Whole Shot (5.14a) at the enormous Pipe Dream cave of Maple Canyon, Utah. Sheftel worked on the route for 16 days over about two and a half months, finding two cruxes near the end of this endurance testpiece: a throw to a crimp at the third to last bolt, followed by a stretch of small, sloping holds.

A major figure in New Mexico climbing before moving to Colorado, Sheftel had previously climbed a couple of 5.13d routes two years ago at Rifle, Colorado. “I have mixed feelings on working a route so hard,” he wrote in an email. “I can only do so once in a while, but, having said that, it's a pretty cool process.”

Wow!

Title: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: Fiend on November 16, 2005, 09:13:20 am

Good for him. Always inspiring to hear that one can still theoretically crank hard in a few decades...

Title: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: dave on November 16, 2005, 09:18:05 am

this reminds me of michael jacksons favourite joke:

Whats the best thing about having sex with fifty-nine year olds?

Theres fifty of them.

Title: Re: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: account_inactive on November 16, 2005, 10:12:57 am

Quote from: "r-man"

Quote

Lee Sheftel, 59, Climbs 5.14
 
 

by Dougald MacDonald


Fifty-nine-year-old Lee Sheftel has redpointed The Whole Shot (5.14a) at the enormous Pipe Dream cave of Maple Canyon, Utah. Sheftel worked on the route for 16 days over about two and a half months, finding two cruxes near the end of this endurance testpiece: a throw to a crimp at the third to last bolt, followed by a stretch of small, sloping holds.

A major figure in New Mexico climbing before moving to Colorado, Sheftel had previously climbed a couple of 5.13d routes two years ago at Rifle, Colorado. “I have mixed feelings on working a route so hard,” he wrote in an email. “I can only do so once in a while, but, having said that, it's a pretty cool process.”

Wow!

Good news for Bubba  :wink:

Title: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: Bubba on November 16, 2005, 12:30:37 pm

:)

When does this massive increase in strength and technique start happening? About 45? Cool, I'll just carry on being a lardy old git 'til then..

Title: 59 year old climbs 8b+
Post by: webbo on November 16, 2005, 01:19:46 pm

Quote from: "Bubba"

:)

When does this massive increase in strength and technique start happening? About 45? Cool, I'll just carry on being a lardy old git 'til then..

i found it started happening around the time i sent for the shackletons high chair broshure.mmmmm so easy to get out of.