UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => board construction FAQs => Topic started by: Bubba on November 09, 2004, 08:17:35 pm
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Please contribute
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will let you know, Im about to start building a massive woodie in my 2 story double garage. Will give you a step by step once I start it
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cool :8)
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PDF link here from the link FOAM posted on the campus topic.
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/HowtoBuildaHomeBoulderingWall.pdf
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thats a pretty good article loads of good info.
I know we dont like rockfax, but they did do a good article on building a wall in your garage, quite usfull as most of us have garages and most garages are the same size, so dont think you could go far wrong with there article
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Is there a link to the rockfax article ?
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another link from Indoor Climbing.com
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/climbing_walls.html
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every woody is different, mainly due to how you are going to fix it to your building, and how you do this pretty much dictates how difficulty it will be the build.
Typical cellar:
most victorian terraces have cellars under the living room floor. the living room floor will be held up with massive (oak?) beams with will probably be about 20" appart. this is an adequate seperation for the main beams (i.e. the ones your ply is screwed to).
(http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/woodyplan.jpg)
get 2x4s, and whatever your desired angle of wall is, take half that angle and make your end cut so you can reverse the bit you cut off giving you a short kickboard support peice at the right angle of wall - hold these together by screwing in ply scraps either side for a totally rock solid joint. bolt these main beams into your ceiling with a big (10mm?) coach bolt, then you've got a bombproof construction that will never fall down. if you make the bottom of the main beams sit tight in against the wall then you only need attach the woody to the house via the coach bolts into the beams, no fixing into maisonry needed - this also allows you to totally insulate the wood from masonry with plastic to prevent dry rot. also you may need to sit the beams on little bit of ply to top the wood splitting and carving up the plastic on the floor. Most victorian terraces stopped being square years ago (theres not a right angle in my cellar) so be flexible with the design and cut and fix 1 peice of wood at a time. when you fit the ply try fitting it in segments into the gaps between the ceiling beams - this can give you up to a foot of extra height - a lot when your ceiling hight may only be 6foot between floor and bottom of beams.
keep the kickboard as small as possible, and not put many footholds on and keep then poor - otherwise your first 3 moves will be piss cos your feet will just stay on the good low holds.
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dave's right - it depends almost completely on how you are to affix it.
The better boards are metal framed, although these are harder to work with and more permanent (generally). The School is all suspended from a single roof joist, then the 2x4 supports are bolted to anything thats nearby, whether load bearing or otherwise. Clearly this approach is not going to please health and safety inspectors but it works.
The old Foundry Office board had a big slat running along the top of the roof where the up beams leant out against it, and other boards I have worked on have had these beams screwed sideways into a floor support.
There's also certain schools of thought that say that you can frame off your ply and hang it out on a chain - widely called 'wobble boards'.
The question really is - how much room do you have?
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theres also those free-standing "furniature boards" for rented cribs etc. Dave Scuffle might be able to shed some light on these, cos i seem to remember he had one.
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I built my freestanding woodie in about 2 days.
Basically I made 2 right angle triangles and joined them with several wooden rungs. It felt a little bit wobbly untill I bolted the plywood onto it. It was pretty cheap wood wise, but I spent an absolute fortune on bolts.
I learnt a lot doing this, and would do things a lot different if I rebuilt one.
Firstly, don't use a wooden frame. Scaffolding is actually pretty cheap and I reckon by the time you have bought a load of bolts the prices would be comparable. You would have a strong frame that would be easy to restyle or connect other bits on to.
Secondly - if your woodie is going to be made of wood, most important is use hard wood, as soft would expands and contracts meaning a constant tightening of nuts is required.
And if your going to use electrical planers and sanders inside be carefull of the carpet and make sure you own a Dyson :) .
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so i'm looking at building a freestanding woodie in my back garden. had thought about hanging it of a large tree (somehow). any suggestions, tips, sage wisdom before i waste my time and money?
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I've got one in my garden. Built a frame (two sturdy wooden posts sunk into the ground, connected by another horizontal joist). Reinforced the frame by sinking another post in front of each of the vertical ones, and bolting them together. Attached the wall by chains, so the angle is adjustable, and anchored the frame to attachments in some paving with nylon rope, just in case.
Reckon if you want to use a tree, it'll be difficult to keep it stable, unless you actually screw it into the tree, which can't be a good thing. Though I guess it also depends on the size of the wall and the tree.
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does it not get wet and become unusable for six months a year?
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and here is an alternative method of board fixing :
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10037/normal_school.jpg)
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fucking hell, that looks so flimsy! what have they used for the main beams, 1x1s?
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does it not get wet and become unusable for six months a year?
Well, I have yet to find out...
Over summer it stayed dry whenever it rained because
a) it's overhanging
b) it's under a tree.
But now that the leaves have gone from the tree, I'm not sure. I haven't looked at it for a couple of months cos I'm waiting for my tendon injury to heal... but we'll see.
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fucking hell, that looks so flimsy! what have they used for the main beams, 1x1s?
and it is! the flex if someone over 10.5 stone gets on is quite alarming. As part of the entry exam they weigh you though, so it should be allright. :wink:
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i'd better never go then, i probably woulnd't get in at 12.5 stone.
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Bloody hell, is that where I think it is - a famous sheffield haunt for the strong? I wouldn't walk under that let alone climb on it. There must be more to it than a couple of vertical matchsticks attatched with drawing pins? Is that a rope hooked at the back? Good back up plan I like it.
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(http://www.canaryclimbs.com/fil_1200.jpg)
(http://www.canaryclimbs.com/fil_1199.jpg)
(http://www.canaryclimbs.com/fil_1198.jpg)
Not my new wall but wish it was, this is a new woodie being bult in slovenia
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nice slab topouts
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jonny in blackpool buily a freestanding scaffold cave in his back garden then screwed ply and then used nice round stones off the beach onto it. i usually get my girlfriend to help me build one :wink:
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my bro built a woody in our back garden back home, adjustable freestanding A-frame style. we keep it dry and rot free with a big plactic sheet or two and a tin of cuprinol mind you it's only been up a couple of years. you can get treated ply and timber but its well pricey. as for t-nuts he got cheap ones from a hardware supplier for a few pence each i think. some of the wodden holds can get a bit greasy over winter. thats it as far as my knowledge goes my bro built it and the gits in nz at the mo
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I started the woodie at the weekend, I am building a 40degree wall and a 30 degree wall. at an L shape also panemimg the rest of the garage out just of vertical for warming up. also a roof spanning the lengh of the garage, will get round to building a campus bourd aslwell
The 40 degree wall has a small kick board then 10X10 with a vetical section of 4 foot on the top, the 30 degree wall has a 2 foot kicker then 10 X 14 foot so plenty of height, I have used around 15 sheets of ply and about 600 T nuts.
I will be more than happy to give full details and costing, pictures at a later date, as i cant stay out of there, I want to get it finished
Total cost so far is £350 with out the holds, but luckely I know a man that has just made me 400 of the buggers :D :D :wink: :wink:
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too keen. theres real rock out there you know.
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not were i am
and its fucking raining
:D :D :D
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Here is some of my wall, sorry about the pictures but my camaera is shit, and i had to take loads and just stitch them all together, but you get the idea, still have to put more holds on it
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other side
Still have to build the roof yet
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the kickboard on the left looks tres grand.
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try and get like twice the density of hold coverage, will be reet bo.
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yes i will in time, i left loads of space for all my wooden screw ons, but it took me 4 days just to put all them on
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That's well impressive - where is it, in a barn or something?
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na its in my garage
right next to my bed room
gonna get strong again
just need more holds
lol
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PS its a F******G big garage
right then im off to north wales, hope the weather is good
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north wales you're talking about feller, it ain't gonna be good.
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My Woodie (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=6974)
built this at home a few years ago. Put two verticals against the the rear wall of the garage and drilled through the vertical members and two course brick and bolted directly through it all using threaded M10 bar. everything else was attached onto those verticals. Couldnt join it to rafters because they werent complete members they had a tension joint in the middle so any load would of pulled them out of line. Sturdy as anything and only took about a day to put up. Always use ply mind. Went for the cheap option and it used to flake loads...
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north wales you're talking about feller, it ain't gonna be good.
hey man just got back. it was wicked had a great day on tramadoc on sat, and a fantastic day bouldeing in the pass today, good weather all weakend, although a little cold
you all mised out
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Get strong like ben, build the moon board:
https://www.moonclimbing.com/images/school/moon_board.pdf
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>fucking hell, that looks so flimsy! what have they used for the main beams, 1x1s?
Just found this thread and the pic of the school board from the back and it brought back some memories.. me and Gav Ellis built the main structure over two days and then added the Campus board from Bent Spoons garden some time later.
Gav basically made some sketches and worked out a rough design, got the money together from the members of the collective and then ordered a sh*tload of wood from Jewsons and the two of us carted it all in by hand. I just took orders whilst he improvised and made it up as he went along. based on the Edgedale Road woodie and the board in Jerry's cellar.
We were so f*cking psyched when it all came together and everyone was over making holds and working on problems.
Whilst I'm no longer a member and never did anything harder than Basic Jez on the steep board I'm still dead proud that I helped to build it and see all those early problems get done (and watch Malc repeat them with ease during his visits to Sheff) and the fact that it's still standing - it was a full-on punk-rock DIY collective effort too when everyone (bar Jerry and Quentin) was totally skint which gives me a warm feeling inside :-)
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(http://img1.postimage.org/9992/DSC00341.jpg) (http://img1.postimage.org/9992/DSC00341.html)
Thinking of fixing up a woodie in this industrial unit. I think it would probably be best (space wise) to have the 45 deg board leaning in from the end wall, only problem is you cant fix into that wall so it would have to be supported from the two sides. Any ideas? think it might flex way too much and the top section on the left hand side of the pic wouldnt be supported all the way....
Help...[/img]
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did it all off the back wall at my parents place as rafters werent joined in the middle.
Took about a day to build because of using bolts etc.
(http://img1.postimage.org/9996/6974.jpg) (http://img1.postimage.org/9996/6974.html)
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Why not brace it up against the a roof truss. As long as you put fair size stiffening beams along the back it wont flex much.
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which ones? the ones running across the pics arent I beams theyre just purlins and theyre weak as piss im afraid when you load em like that.
Was thinking maybe making a stiff board (lots of beams behind the panels) and support it from the side walls with an inclined beam but that limits the height on the left hand side of the pic...
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Scaffolding suppliers if anyone is interested.
http://www.scaffoldingsupplies.com/price_lists/conventional_scaffold_1.html
I reckon this is the way forward for freestanding walls.
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my freestanding wall is about to enter the construction phase. it was conceived by a non-climbing furniture designer, so is slightly more elegant than my last effort! will stick a picture up when it's finished...
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are you taking the piss???
it's not hard. get some wood, set it at an angle and wack some holds on: Bob's your incestual uncle who, incedentally, likes you quite a lot
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Another useful post, you are doing well.
NE Scotland's premier training facility aka "The Shop" is currently in phase 2 & 3 of development. Will post some pics soon. Sadly it's not mine though.
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my new baby. Christened it tonight.... I present to you; "Boardway"
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/boardbuilding.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/boardbuilding2.jpg)
and then there needed to be light;
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/floodlight.jpg)
and then there needed to be training;
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/board2.jpg)
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/board1.jpg)
and the result of training is some mega nuclear e=mc^2 type shit;
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/board.jpg)
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I am saddened by these pictures. Saddened because I am concerned that this means you have shunned our board for a new younger model. :wink: and that this means you wont be back in sheff to attempt pointless feats of strength, often.
How do you get to the things behind the board? is that what the left hand side gap is for? In picture one there is some sort of crazy transient ghost being. Watch out for him on late night training sessions - he looks rough.
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Theres a door to get behind the board. I can see that now. Damn these rubbish eyes.
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I'll be up in sheffield weekly, so don't worry dobbin, we can attempt all sorts of intensely stupid strength related feats. Infact, I want to have another attempt at a number 2, I can't believe I let that thing beat me in the first round!!!
Oh, and there are bigger problems that just ghosts in this board, there are some serious gangsta types... rolling on 22's, poppin caps left right and centre....
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e129/unclesomebody/climbing%20wall/boardgangsta.jpg)
:lol:
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:shock: Where's the mullet gone!? Surely you're not loosing the faith.
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(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10110/boardgangsta.jpg)
Ahhh! Back the way it should be.
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Mullets are the future, here now..............or something like that
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HA HA HA HA.... I especially like the babybel and the snail... mullets come and mullet go, but in your heart you know you are at one with your inner mullet.
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I was a big fan of that mullet too.
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i think im the only one sad enuogh to notice this but the mullet is just a distraction for the fact that he has babybells on hes woodie!!!!!!!!!!!!
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44863
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44862
One of the better woodie's ive seen.
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i think im the only one sad enuogh to notice this but the mullet is just a distraction for the fact that he has babybells on hes woodie!!!!!!!!!!!!
HA HA HA HA.... I especially like the babybel and the snail... mullets come and mullet go, but in your heart you know you are at one with your inner mullet.
::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
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(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10342/normal_image_5.JPG)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10342/normal_image_6.JPG)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10342/normal_image_3%7E0.JPG)
(http://ukbouldering.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10342/normal_image_2.JPG)
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44863
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44862
One of the better woodie's ive seen.
It looks pretty poor for a woody, not steep enough and is completely unused, the owner more worried about aesthetics than the training/climbing
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Is that yours ned? That's fucking massive!
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I could think of a few more words to call it is fucking amazing
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Its not mine, but its my mates from home and its where I train when im not at uni. It is very, very good but lacks a little in height. We also have a bachar ladder outside.
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u mean we had a bachar ladder its been taken down. most of the rungs had split unfortunately
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I like the way the hold called "nob" makes it into the pictures (third pic).Nice touch!
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its a good job some of the others dint make it in or it could of been banned
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Think thats a bit harsh jim ,yeah its not fantastic and it looks clean but seen as though they were just posted up I think it was just finished being built.
Not ideal angles and stuff but the room doesnt look exactly wide does it?
Note the interior looking door in the background, is this the main room? Reminds me of the pic of yuji hiriyama (sp?) in Rock Stars with a woodie in a flat. Somehow dont think id get away with that.
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u mean we had a bachar ladder its been taken down. most of the rungs had split unfortunately
Has the ladder died then steve? Thats a right shame. It does, however mean that I can build a new new that is actually hard. ;)
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yeah it had pretty much died. that one was hard i couldn't bloody do any of it. we'll have to make the next one releaseable so it dont get recked
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here you go keith
this is what the young youth has been up to
Helping me build the new wall
:o
(http://www.customholds.com/thebegining.jpg)
(http://www.customholds.com/the%20middle.jpg)
(http://www.customholds.com/the%20end.jpg)
This is about half the wall, the other parts are under construnction, including campus board and bg traverse warm up wall
hope you like it guys
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looks good honky. Now you just need to strip all those jugs, put on some small holds, and get on it!!! Oh, and make sure to get a sound system in there... can't train without music.
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those jugs are on there for when you come down
:dance1:
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really, you shouldn't have, you're too kind.
:kiss1:
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[img]With very limited space I have decided to go with a little woodie like this one. I found the pic on fusionfortyseven.com.
I don't have a clue as to who the guys on it are though.http://www.fusionfortyseven.com/photos/FirstWall.jpg (http://www.fusionfortyseven.com/photos/FirstWall.jpg)
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Bit steep though innit?
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yeah I'm not gonna have it as steep as that though, but it will be the same sort of shape
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Finally, after years and years of hard mental graft, leaving my day job and moving back home to devote time to pestering him, the old man has given the nod for a board in the garage! Work begins very soon and when complete, any of the usual suspects from the Wirral/Liverpool posse wanting to join us for some winter board sessions are welcome to do so. Does anyone have any plans for a chain based jobby with a hinged middle so as it sits flush to the wall and ceiling when not in use? Thinking a rack and pinion device might be suitable for sitting it flush to the ceiling. I'd be keen to hear from those who have built such systems.
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A new extention to the old wall, bit stiched in the old photoshop, but you get the idea
this wall is big
(http://www.customholds.com/completecyberwall%20copy.jpg)
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Due to the joys of student rented accomodation, my board had to be small, cheap and leave no trace of ever being there. Here's what happened...
(http://photos-613.ak.facebook.com/ip005/v17/186/124/197805812/n197805812_31114613_6731.jpg)
buy/make a load of tiny holds and screw em' on - cue huge blisters
(http://photos-615.ak.facebook.com/ip005/v17/186/124/197805812/n197805812_31114615_1940.jpg)
attach to large family car - cue breaking free of ropes and very nearly flying off onto the motorway, and an emergency stop on the hard shoulder. luckily more ropes were on hand.
(http://photos-616.ak.facebook.com/ip005/v17/186/124/197805812/n197805812_31114616_8231.jpg)
It now resides in the spare room of my house. The base rests in the corner of the room, and the beams brace against the other corner - with no fixing required. I was very sceptical before it was in place, but it is perfectly solid, and the beams don't get in the way. The steepness can be increased very easily by chopping off the ends of the beams. I was also worried about the lack of kickboard, but this doesn't seem to be a problem.
I would like to take this opportunity to open it to all UKBers in the area ;) Long may she stand
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I PM'd you woz.
scotty.
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Hello,
I'm designing/constructing a freestanding woodie in my garage at home, I have 3 sheets of 3/4 inch ply - 8"x4", and am going to attach it to a triagular frame at about 65 degrees. I'm concerned that when in place it will bow in the middle - it will be 12' across, and have a 2"x4" stud frame for the ply behind.
Is there anything else I'd need to do to make sure it wouldn't bow in the middle when pulled on? or would the 2 frames be enough? (I can't attach it to anything in the garage as it needs rebuilding eventually....
Any tips are very much appreciated
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65 degrees.
as in the board will be at an angle of 65 degrees?
if i have misunderstood ignore the following...
i would not recomend a board at 65 degrees, about 50 should be max (IMHO). tom's/greg's woodie in lancaster is 50 and that feels steep as fook. i think the steepest board in the school is only 50.
a board too steep might force you to use big holds, therefor negating any advance in finger strength.
mine is 40, and i used to get good use of it (moving 250 miles away makes it a bit inconvenient for a quick session now).
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I'm finally moving house next week (fingers crossed nothing else goes wrong) and I have the potential for a very cool woodie/training room.
Its the top room in my house, and is the space where the roof comes up to its highest point. So I have 2 sloping angles leading to the ceiling's high point.
The last time I actaully had chance to look around the room was a while ago so I'm doing most of this of a vague memory. But from what I can recall, both sloping roofes had 3 or 4 horizontal beams running across them. This would lead me to believe I can bolt plywood(?) to these beams and then holds to the plywood thus creating my own kick ass traing woodie in the top of my house. My only concerns are to the stability of the beams. I know this sounds like a daft question as they hold the frigging roof up, but i was wondering if anyone had built a similar set up before? It would be at a similar angle to Malc's board on the splinter video posted recently:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdPpjTsbuzI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdPpjTsbuzI)
But possiblet not as steep and I am no way as strong.
I intend to build a borad on one side of the roof, and leave the other side clear.
Any helpers?
Cheers
Mike
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orite marra if yuo go ahead with the plans you know you've always got sumdy to help with the build but you obviosly know i cant offer any structural advise c you soon, dyl
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I'd be inclined to try and spread some of the load from the boarded side to the no boarded side, maybe by some inclined columns fixed to the side which you don't intend to climb on, at least this way some of the forces created by you bearing down can be transferred to the side without the dead load. To be honest your roof will probably have been designed with differential snow/wind loading in mind and therefore should be ok to take the load all on one side, although if your in any doubt then maybe an A-frame free standing structure might be a better alternative?
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Does anyone at all happen to have a copy of the moon board plans stored on their PC. Really need to get hold of it and as the moon site is down at the moment, I can't get it.
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Some shots of the basic framework of our design
(http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/315/woodybelowhc3.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/2134/woodyrearny0.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/5264/woodyscalepz6.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Minute detail such as the ply frame,kicker detail and joist hangers isn't yet included, but gives you an idea of the scale of things.
Due to the non-existence of a ceiling in the premises, we've had to construct joists between the two walls and then bolt into them.
Will have some shots up next week of the final construction.
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Looks wicked Tom. All we gotta do is build the fucker now. For those that are interested, it's going to have two boards of similar design, facing each other in the room. One steeper that the other.
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Those dimensions I am told are now 16' x 16', not 12' x 16' as illustrated. Come on my selector.
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16' by 16' it is indeed. And that's just the 45 side. We are all gonna get soooo injured, soooo quick.
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Already sorted the plans for my hammock hanging off the roof frame :thumbsup:
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are you boys going to get this thing built then?
get to it. you should all be banned from leaving the building untill it is finished (no trips to woodwell allowed!)
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I tried imprisoning other members for a few weeks, but eventually they overpowered me and broke free. We got just enough of it done for my architecture folio piece-interview though so that was enough slave driving. Next tuesday will be a monster last push to finish the beast off, pics to follow...
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Next tuesday will be a monster last push to finish the beast off, pics to follow...
Fuckin' hell, I may actually make it down there next Tuesday since school breaks up tomorrow and I don't go to Font until next Thursday. So I should be there on Tuesday, unless of course it's dry outside. And O'ert Road has dried out. Or it's cold and dry enough for grit. Or I haven't finished my assignment. I have a litany of excuses why I have made little effort to build the thing.
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You are going straight to the top of the blacklist Ben! :wave:
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Do I look bothered?
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A few shots of the wall i use:
http://photo.ringo.com/178/178496577RL113966914.jpg
The 45 deg section
http://photo.ringo.com/196/196828206RL639324790.jpg
Main wall - think its around 30 Deg
and the one on the left is around 5 deg
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Whats the overhanging wall attached to? A roof rafter?
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and why is Shrek pearing around the top of your 30 deg board :-\
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Whats the overhanging wall attached to? A roof rafter?
Yup, a big old oak beam, gonna be extending it soon as its a few moves too short at the mo!
Yeh, no idea where Shrek came from, beast a big gaping hole tho... got a problem on the 30deg wall called 'Shrek Direct' !!
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I can finally confirm that the 45% section of our woody is finished and we made a start putting holds on last night!
No doubt Rich or Tom will follow this post with photo's.
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And here is the finished article (apart from the obvious lack of holds currently on! ;))
(http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e126/RepentBwal/woodycomplete2.jpg)
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That is SWEET!
Its just like the woody at Keswick wall, its almost identical. I'm very jealous. Good use of the car for scale as well.
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She's a beast that's for sure. Took a lot of effort, soul-searching and raping the yellow pages and internet but sure enough it came to light. I'll dig out some more snaps now...
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(http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/5551/woodylightjr4.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
et
A rather more moody proposition...
(http://img104.imageshack.us/img104/3728/woodycomplete3dh7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
As you can see, not an ocean of holds on at the moment but have a lot of bolting/screwon work to do as well as some other tasks to make it more 'homely'. But yes, very happy.
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Nice one guys, that looks ace! :thumbsup:
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Oh so very jealous. Very nice work people. x
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Hey is that a VW fastback lurking beneath the covers??.
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I believe it is yes. That car is gathering a lot of interest I can tell you! Not sure what the owners plans are for it yet but have someone very keen to speak to him about it.
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Good effort Tom and crew for finally getting the board built. All you need now are several hundred holds, a nice little stereo and regular sessions 5 days a week! Hope to get the tour if I'm ever up that way again.
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That car is gathering a lot of interest I can tell you! Not sure what the owners plans are for it yet.
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/fastback.jpg)
Something like this perhaps :shrug:
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That would be a very cool look indeed!
a nice little stereo and regular sessions 5 days a week! Hope to get the tour if I'm ever up that way again.
Tannoy speakers and my amp are there. The acoustics are out of this world in that place what with it being a theatre. You're of course very welcome to the tour if you're about at any point Keith. As for 5 day sessions, try stopping me!
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My joints ache already :thumbsup:
It's slowly gathering holds but we still need way more 50mm countersunks! Gonna start cutting up some bannister rail for pinches and just screw them on I think 8)
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Went down after Pex tonite, very impessive lads :thumbsup:. Can't wait to get a proper session on it. :beer2: for everyone.
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nice one boyz.
ill have to come down and have a look. get some wood cut up and screwed on.
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Aye good call man. Will be getting round to making some holds in the next few days just been busy with other shit (and the incredible weather means outdoors).
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that looks sweet.
climbing works take note, that is a training board.
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monolith the incredible weather means indoors to train. i ask you has gaskins got a tan? before you say yes remember thats just a build-up of blood ;)
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Dense my dear, uber early morning limestone sieges are my thing. You won't catch me with a tan either as the sun is barely up ;)
But seriously, the venue stays freezing cold. There's no windows so the building never heats up. There's also so much soil banked up around it, it's constantly cooly insulated from the heat. A dream venue I think you will concur.
Feel free to drop us a pm if any of you Manc lot want a session sometime.
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Well, my pride and joy is now complete... Behold, 40 degrees of justice:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/227/504555132_2214adaeb9_o.jpg)
The size is somewhat limited by the garage is sits within, but I get almost 8 ft of climbing height, not including the 10 inch kickboard of course. I guess you have to get used to super low starts. At least it is perfect practise for all the lying-start projects out there...
Since this pic was taken I have put a load of big home made wooden holds on, as I am (even) much worse at fingery steep climbing than I thought. I have now started tictaking up the resin holds and so far no finger death..
I used less sturdy timber than is generally recomended.. 2.5x3 inch for the verticals (5 across the 8ft width) and 15mm ply.. I cannot detect any flex on the actual structure itself, but holds in the middle of the gap between the uprights, right at the top do flex slightly due to the thinner ply, but I totally didn't notice it after the first 10 mins.. I guess I am not especially heavy (11.5 stone), but then again I am not especially light.
I had no handy exposed beams so I bolted horizontals on the concrete wall and roof with 5 bolts apiece, and wedged the uprights between them. Really difficult drilling straight holes in the concrete.. And I got my measurements wrong and had to drill two lots of holes in the roof. BOLLOX.
So far it has been up for a month and a half or so and I LOVE IT. The biggest difficulty is staying off it, terrified as I am of having to stare at it balefully every day whilst spending 4 months recovering from snapped finger..
Oh, and in germany they display the prices for ply by the square metre, not by the sheet. So if you are a bit of an idiot it can be a shock when you come to pay for your bargin plywood...."Oh, so round about TEN square meters then" "Fucksticks".
And in the background you can see a "Phil and Teds" state of the art 2 kid pushchair. An awesome machine. Buy one even if you only have one kid!
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Good erm, work Sam! Time to get strong...
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Wow! This is ace.
Buy these : http://www.expression-holds.com/english/gamme/pro_models/akira.htm (http://www.expression-holds.com/english/gamme/pro_models/akira.htm)
And put them in a roof like this: http://www.expression-holds.com/english/gamme/pro_models/akira_draw.pdf (http://www.expression-holds.com/english/gamme/pro_models/akira_draw.pdf)
And as if by magic you have your own 9b!
Sweet.
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oh yes i am buying them will put them up at the tower let dave lose it
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When i get back from my travels i will be building the board of power.
What thickness of ply do people tend to use. What prices are people paying for it. I assume its 8*4?
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8 x 4 18mm marine ply was our weapon of choice. A little more expensive than shutter ply I think but was neccessary due to damp in our building. Let me know when you're doing it Adam if you want a hand/advice from our experiences.
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Cool, probably wont need marine ply, just normal 18mm 8*4. How much should i expect to pay for that?
It will be a good while off, after i get back from oz.
Ill no doubt have some questions too!
Ta
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I'd assume 15 quid for a sheet. If I remember rightly, that was about the average price.
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I've just finished building my woodie. sort of, as you can see in the picture i have a bit to fix in before the middle beam.
Didn't cost that much, i got the plywood for free... :whistle:
I want to fix a campus board in, but i don't want it as steep. would it be easy to put one in using the existing beams?
Also for the brick wall vertical part i have plans to make that up over the summer too. Got a massive homemade fingerboard to put up. I'll post more pics. :)
(http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/8397/attikxc9.th.jpg) (http://img524.imageshack.us/my.php?image=attikxc9.jpg)
Ps. sorry i can't get my mac to spin the picture the right way and save :(
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can't you just rotate right,or left, in Preview?
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yeah i tried that, but when i saved it was still the wrong way :[
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Guy's iv seen this finger board!!!
its the biggest baddest homemade peice of kit ever!
get a piccie loaded up Karl
make em all jelous ;)
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haha, i'd love to. But.. my arms hurt and i've left teh ladders up there. so the V2 boulder problem of actually getting to the woodie is a no no.
i'll post some up tomorrow, might get some wood for the slab section this week. :great:
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just finished building mine
http://youtube.com/profile?user=ethernol
dont know how to put pics up
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Matching is ghey
Nice wall BTW
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cheers dude
that's a big jug and quite ashamed of it, gonna move it tonight as a lower hold. it was neil's circuit, so neil's the gay.
pics are up on ukc, plebs think it was funny to rate even tho i told them there was no point as i didnt put them up for grading but to show ppl
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=3699
just checked and mods have removed the 4th one with neil chalking up?!
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with the recent light showers we have been having my new board has been suffering from damp conditions.
the older of the 2 boards annoyingly has started to form mold and mildew. i'll expect the newer will start if conditions don't improve.
what's the best treatment i can do to the ply? i've been suggested an undercoat but unsure of which kind. gonna do a b&q after work
much help needed
steve
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I've has this problem in my cellar. I used marine ply so am not too concerned, but it is a pain in the arse.
Let me know if you find a solution
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the best solution would be to get a dehumidifyer
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We've had exactly the same problem at our board recently. The boards got completely soaked due to a leak in the roof (now thankfully repaired). One of the members went down with a yard brush and cleaned all the mold and mildew off and it seems to have dried out fine now. Whether or not some of the boards will have to be replaced remains to be seen. I've heard suggestions of coating the rear of the board in creosote which doesn't seem a bad idea if you have shutter ply and the source of damp is from a leak.
It goes without saying that there must be adequate ventilation for you to carry out this process - consult someone in the know to do this treatment safely.
As Jim says, a dehumidifyer is ideal if your board is within a space in which it will be of use. As ours is within a big open building, it's effect would be questionable.
Good luck in sorting this.
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Or build your board out of stainless steel.
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the best solution would be to get a dehumidifyer
the best solution would be for it to stop fucking raining :please:
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the best solution would be for it to stop fucking raining :please:
Hear hear.
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I've heard suggestions of coating the rear of the board in creosote which doesn't seem a bad idea if you have shutter ply and the source of damp is from a leak.
It goes without saying that there must be adequate ventilation for you to carry out this process - consult someone in the know to do this treatment safely.
Not a great idea given the constituents of creosote, even with 'adequate ventilation' - I'm sure it'd work in terms of protecting the wood, but the potential risk to health would be too great (we normally get to charge clients $100Ks to give them that same advice......).
Water based, non-VOC-containing external primer would be my best guess.
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Shows exactly how much I know on the matter Andy aye.
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Got no room for a woodie?
why not go down the same route as Alain Robert and convert the roof of your flat house:
http://www-dist02.proaxial.net/www.alainrobert.com/video/ar-mur1.mpg (http://www-dist02.proaxial.net/www.alainrobert.com/video/ar-mur1.mpg)
WARNING: Features said man wearing some kind of skin tight blue PVC trousers
shamelessly robbed from a UKC thread
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Iggy Pop is looking strong. 8)
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35 moves upside down on massive jugs. Hmmm.Good training for arsing about on the Petronas Towers or something I suppose.
Robert must have commited more fashion crimes than everyone else in the history of climbing combined. Those trousers on their own would trump the collective lycra tight disasters of Malham catwalk 1985 - present. He deserves his own thread as some sort of shrine to bad taste.
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this looks like how not to build a woodie? ok so its more ambitious than the average 45' but come on?...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568)
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Must admit it looks a bit like Heeley Boulder made out of papier mache.
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this looks like how not to build a woodie? ok so its more ambitious than the average 45' but come on?...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568)
:lol:
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Isn't it one of Tracy Emin's?
"Every one I have ever climbed with" or something like that?
(http://boulderingvideos.googlepages.com/wall.jpg/wall-full;init:.jpg)
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Perhaps they were trying to make this...........
(http://i13.tinypic.com/80niiyc.jpg)
.......?
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well....
10 years ago I built my last board... (made 5 so far in total)
I've made one for my birthday, this time last week it was a pipedream (though i did get the garage rewired last month by way of planning)...
what have done / made??
40degrees, 10 inch kick board, 10ft of face, 3 roof beams worth of wood / fingerboards out past the board. 8 by 4 simple frame... about 100 wood holds and the same of resin.. the boards were *owed* to me from the chesterfield board syndicate from yrs gone by..
gosh? isnt it easier to own a few powertools? What took 3 weeks by hand takes 3 hrs!!
piccies to follow...
1st sesh = aching / pain (but not too much to cause harm) for 2 days, second sesh tonight... ideal sesh with few probs done and projects a plenty!!
there is something about your own board isnt there? I had one of the 1st overhanging boards in sheff (1989) and now it's not in a dust ridden cellar but an open garage.. no more board induced asthma for me then!
I MUST give respect to fatboyslimfast for helping me get the 8ft by 4ft thick ply sheets up and to bubba for the bargain hold purchase this summer when he cleared out his garage.
bearing down on wood for the first time in a decade feels good man...
some of the wood holds on the board are older than my eldest son who is now well into the board training thing!!
its a revelation.. makes you wonder on how to best train for boulder probs / short sport routes... i feel a training programme coming on!
not the biggest board on here, nor probs the best - but I'm a proud new *father* of my newest creation!!
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I couldn't even comprehend building a board without power tools
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Fatdoc, rumour in the Sheaf is that you're not inviting anyone round till you get all the problems wired ? :-\
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yep.
er.. no... i'll ring you
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did someone say power tools!
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I'm going to be painting my board soon, has anyone any experience of this and advice?
I've been told it causes the holds to spin a lot, was thinking of using only a very thin coat of thin paint to avoid this, what paint do you think would be best?
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The board at awesome walls was recently painted (not sure why when there are clearly greater priorities) and as you say Jim, the holds seem to spin a lot. Are you looking to paint it for protective purposes?
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just to cover up some water marks and all the old hold names and generally just make the board look half decent
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this looks like how not to build a woodie? ok so its more ambitious than the average 45' but come on?...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568)
Looks like that piece of shit freestanding boulder they have (had?) at High Sports in Redhill.
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should have seen the old one at the barn mark 1
looked ok if a tad too DIY from the outside but from the back - kinda made you think twice about pulling too hard
hope the barn mark 2 doesn't have a slurry filled obstacle course leading from the parking to the door...
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Painted the board last night with some grey undercoat/primer.
Looks a lot better now, can't seem to set the board very well though. Wasn't happy with the last setting and the new setting seems even worse.
Anyone got any good methods or rules on which to set by?
I've got a reasonable selection of slopers, crimps and jugs on plastic and wood
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I've got a reasonable selection of slopers, crimps and jugs on plastic and wood
I find an IXI distribution of jugs for warming up
X distribution of of slopers (or X with another X on top)
and stacked U distributions of crimps so that you traverse each way then up
fill in the gaps as you can
along the top mostly positive slopers and flatties not big jugs...
hope this makes some sort of sense...
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nowhere near enough holds now that the board has become a third bigger. get clm to make some, then throw them. get worm to get some, then you'll be too old. etc
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Jim, just put the holds on roughly randomly then tweak it, ditch/move anything that you're not using or improvise. use screw-on handholds on gaps or unusable space like where the beams are behind the ply. remember you need some degree of randomality to it otherwise you'll just be working your strengths. i.e. if i covered a board in crimps set diagonally at 45degrees i'd not get strong at all. i found it hard to do real problems at the edges of the board cos you'll always be hitting a wall or having no flag-room for your leg, so just set warmup jugs in a loop around the perimeter of the board - so they are not in the way of real problems plus you can have a stamina circuit for fagging around on.
another tip is have 2 sets of footholds. one set for normal use, and with the other set you don't put any holds on the kickboard. personally i find kickboards to be shit, especially on steep boards. you should have no more than 6 inches of kickboard, and don't have many footholds on it. otherwise you fall into the "cellar board" trap of doing the first 3 moves of any problem with your feet on the good hold on your footboard (even a shit footholds feels like a jug on a vertical kickboard), then the crux will always be taking your foot off the kickboard and up onto the best foothold on the steepness. also make sure all your footholds are more or less the same or you will just favour the one or two better footholds and ignore the rest. The best problems i had were on the poor footholds with no kickboard. makes it more like real climbing, you have to pull harder and have more body tension.
Having just taken my board down to move house made me really reflect on what is good and bad in woody design and hold placement, and what i will and won't be doing when i rebuild it.
Things i did wrong:
putting too many holds on the kickboard, and having a handfull of steep footholds there were much better than the rest. not enough wood handholds. also not swapping round handholds i wasn't using. i got lazy.
Things i did right:
having a set of poor sloper kickboard-less footholds. having a small kickboard. not making the finishing holds outright jugs. not bothing to paint it (its not a fashion parade). incorporating a set of seperate wooden system holds and footholds.
hope all this helps.
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Nice one Dave. I've only a small kickboard with only a couple of shit footholds on.
Am going to tweak the holds tonight and have a session on it tommorow to see what its like.
Painting it has made it miles better, just because of all the hold naming and water marks on the boards from the previous installation, took no time at all really.
I'm tempted to put on some good footholds to start with and get some benchmark problems established and them turn them upside down so they are dogshit
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so what has happened to g unit's cock?
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no fear, that is still there
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phase 2 of the maisonbleau woddy nearly finished
(http://www.sibl.co.uk/woody%20stage%202.jpg)
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Schweet! :whistle:
No fucking excuses now neil! You live in Font, you have the wall.
8B before 40!
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Schweet! :whistle:
No fucking excuses now neil! You live in Font, you have the wall.
8B before 40!
8B before 40 my arse before 34 me old sone
;D
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phase 2 of the maisonbleau woddy nearly finished
(http://www.sibl.co.uk/woody%20stage%202.jpg)
woaaa looks sick!
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wait untill it is finished boys ;D
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finished just need the mats
(http://www.sibl.co.uk/wall1.jpg)
(http://www.sibl.co.uk/wall2.jpg)
and behind we have a 4 meter slab, an overhanging prow and little warm up board
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That looks awesome. Wish I had the space to build something like that to train on.
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my life! that is sick!
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Ned or Dave told me about this today:
http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/04/world-cup-hall.html (http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/04/world-cup-hall.html)
not bad eh?
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Ned or Dave told me about this today:
http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/04/world-cup-hall.html (http://gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/04/world-cup-hall.html)
not bad eh?
nice! its especially reassuring these days to discover an austrian cellar that doesn't have anyone locked up inside. ::)
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Ouch.
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Well the weather is to hot to climb, i have a little injury so I decided to upgrade the maisonbleau woody, the original woody is still there, but just built this
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/woody22.jpg)
This is how it fits into the original wall, sorry houdini for ripping out al you hard work
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/woody1.jpg)
Its not finished so watch this space
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Ah! It cost nowt! Forget it! :)
Though as a tippy / edgy / nastier climber I approve.
Looks good, see you in February 09.
-
:o
Neil h.
Just love the Maisonbleau Woody. Looks fun.
Houdini.
Did you get your plans for the moon wall.?
Reason for my post.
Building a woody in my garden for myself and 2 sons. Here are the rough dimensions.
wall. 8x12. 35 - 45 deg adjustable.
roof . 8x4. 8 - 9 foot off ground.
top out finish. 8x2 - 8x4 not decided yet.
not sure about kicker.
Main wall is based on the moon wall plans. Just asking what you would suggest as to
how many holds and what mix you would recomend. have put 300 t-nuts in so plenty
of space and scope.
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i guess for training purposes you want something symetrical so you train each side the same.
im sure some people here will have the correct input as to training methods and which type holds are the best etc
but i dont think you can go wrong with a couple of wooden holds carved to what you want really!
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it took us about 2 months to set up the board properly, best thing is to just randomly put holds on, fill every tnut space. mixture of every type of hold, then just start tweaking. move holds turn holds. once you are happy, place all your foot jibs, jobs a goog un, 2 months later strong as an ox
good luck
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2 months later strong as an ox
If only!
-
>:(
Hi all.
Been away for the last week, keeping eye on posts on laptop.
>:( :o
Returned home to find timber trashed, shed open, power tools gone. Spare climbing gear gone.
Have to start over again any body know of a good place to aquire 300 T'nuts without paying large amount of postage.
Still got all my holds so some luck there.
-
Well the weather is to hot to climb, i have a little injury so I decided to upgrade the maisonbleau woody, the original woody is still there, but just built this
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/woody22.jpg)
This is how it fits into the original wall, sorry houdini for ripping out al you hard work
(http://www.maisonbleau.com/woody1.jpg)
Its not finished so watch this space
any more info or piccys?
-
>:(
Hi all.
Been away for the last week, keeping eye on posts on laptop.
>:( :o
Returned home to find timber trashed, shed open, power tools gone. Spare climbing gear gone.
Have to start over again any body know of a good place to aquire 300 T'nuts without paying large amount of postage.
Still got all my holds so some luck there.
you have my sympathy.
suprised they left the holds though.
-
Still in the box's, in my front room as Luck would have it, not the only shed that's been done in the area.
Have crime number now just need to talk to insurance, should be ok.
-
good luck with the insurance.
my family never has much luck with them.
-
Thinking about putting a small training wall into the garage, but space is limited. The back wall is 2.28m high x 1.6 m wide. There is a roof beam that sits back from the vertical at 0.84m. Some trig calcs give me a 20 degrees from vertical excluding the kickboard if I support the board off the beam, which seems logical and easy enough to do. Does this sound big enough to bother? And how does the angle sound? Is it worth putting a kickboard in?
Also have the option of putting a wall all the way down one side, which would give me a length of approx 10m, but limited to an angle of about 5 -10 degrees max, as would still like to get a car in. Is it worth doing as well?
Your thoughts please. Thanks.
-
i would do both if i could, make the most of what you have.
-
at 20 deg I won't bother with a kick board - ome dirty sloppy crips would make for good pulling otherwise sounds like you could set up a stamina garage....
-
at 20 deg I won't bother with a kick board - ome dirty sloppy crips would make for good pulling
Maybe add a few bloods for balance though.
-
stamina garage....
Mmm stamina. I remember that. Vaguely. Cheers for advice.
If I put up the 10 deg board I wont be able to get round the back of it at all, is this a problem? T Nuts often seem to cause problems on friend's walls.
-
if you take care to hammer in the t-nuts straight and don't just ram bolts in hard from the front you won't have problems. people only generally get t-huts fall out the back when theres a nut not seated in square, then shove a bolt in, it can't find the threads and they're too heavy handed and push it out the back. i never had any come out the back, and most wer hammered in by JR! so i wouldn't fret.
-
If the worst comes to the worst you can get z-nuts you put in from the front, but as Dave said there rarely come out
-
as far as T-nuts I've never had a problem with spinners, but then again I've put a screw in the corner of each one to prevent spinning
-
Thinking about putting a small training wall into the garage, but space is limited. The back wall is 2.28m high x 1.6 m wide. There is a roof beam that sits back from the vertical at 0.84m. Some trig calcs give me a 20 degrees from vertical excluding the kickboard if I support the board off the beam, which seems logical and easy enough to do. Does this sound big enough to bother? And how does the angle sound? Is it worth putting a kickboard in?
Also have the option of putting a wall all the way down one side, which would give me a length of approx 10m, but limited to an angle of about 5 -10 degrees max, as would still like to get a car in. Is it worth doing as well?
Your thoughts please. Thanks.
I did the side wall thing a few years ago but put it on hinges at the bottom. It folded back to put the car in but also allowed me to set a problem at one angle, do it and then make it 5 degrees steeper.... It was a very good training board.
-
Re- spinning T-nuts. The higher the quality(no. of layers) in the ply the better the bite of the nut. Simple SCIENCE.
-
just came across this bad boy on UKC
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517)
looks pretty good tbh!
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just came across this bad boy on UKC
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517)
looks pretty good tbh!
And he's a climbing wall manager too! Not exactly short of places to train....
-
just came across this bad boy on UKC
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=101517)
looks pretty good tbh!
why has he got quickdraws hanging off his wall?
-
people sometimes trail a bit of rope behind them so they can stop and clip when training endurance.
-
Legend has it that one endurance athlete had several mechanical puzzles on his board that had to be completed as part of the circuits. This simulated the; place piece, fumble clip, panic, clip, shake out for five minutes, routine that folks used to act out on trad routes back in the day...
-
people sometimes trail a bit of rope behind them so they can stop and clip when training endurance.
oh, so it's not for safety, coz it didn't look high but i can understand that.
-
Hi all,
I'm going to be building a woodie to go into the lean-to, once it's cleared out. I'm looking for opinions on the layout I have come up with.
It will be used by me and my partner (who has only just started out).
The reason for the adjustable board is so that my partner can use it. This has been in the pipeline for a while, but with the birth of my daughter, everything was put on hold.
The lean-to is in a bit of a state at the moment, but will soon have it's roof replaced and timber treated. The woodie will be classed as an outdoor woodie.
Another very important detail I have not accounted for in the sketch is that it must be a freestanding structure, as the property is rented.
The space
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Cocamainy/DSC00129.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Cocamainy/DSC00130-1.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Cocamainy/DSC00131.jpg)
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d190/Cocamainy/DSC00132.jpg)
Here is the link for a pdf download of my AutoCAD sketch
http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=edea6cbe748175cebda4076e811714c8e04e75f6e8ebb871 (http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=edea6cbe748175cebda4076e811714c8e04e75f6e8ebb871)
Please let me know your thoughts,opinions and ideas.
Be nice,
Gary
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Id simply go with a 30 Deg wall along the whole length of the back wall. maximising height and length
The adjustable wall idea may seem a good idea now but you will loose valuable height when you want it steep.
-
weve just moved into our new house, and as its rented, where building a free standing woody!
cant wait to get it up over the coming weekend, but before we do, how sturdy can free standing woodies be. We had a moon board up at work and there was not movement at all. Im just hoping our a-frame design will provide simular levels of support.
any input greatly welcolme :D
liam
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Having just got this up and running it might be useful for anyone wanting to build a freestanding board.
Few pics attached and a couple of the diagrams:
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/woody1.jpg)
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/woody2.jpg)
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/pic1.jpg)
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/pic2.jpg)
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/pic3.jpg)
If anyone has any pointers/training advice it would be appreciate as this is my first board!
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Yeah, put some matting down before you break your back on that timber
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Yeah its down now fella!
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turn some holds tound, they all face upwards
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The bottom board matrix looks ok, but the top board in shat, needs many more options.
(http://clients.rckt.co.uk/woody/pic2.jpg)
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turn some holds tound, they all face upwards
Good point - I've pretty much just slapped these on (terrible pun in there!) so will have to make more varied.
but the top board in shat...
I'm thinking you meant "is shit"? I'll have to get more holds on. I've got tons but kinda liking the idea of making a load from left over wood bits - of which i have many.
Anyone know of any training articles?
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I meant Shat. ;D
Not necessarily more holds, but more hold options. A more condensed matrix(of holes) as there is very little placement options on the top half..
Otherwise, good skills.
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You want some more holds for your board? (brand new ones going cheap) Based in Sheffield? Pm me.....
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Does anyone have any experience of 18mm structural ply as opposed to the 23mm stuff. built my first board from the 23mm but have heard opinions that it might be over doing it a bit ? It's a simple a frame structure and would appreciate any thoughts.
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Should be fine. Just built an 8ft x12ft board with 18mm. As long as the framework is sturdy it fine.
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My board is 18mm and it is fine.
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I went down to 12mm once which was a bit far but didn't break or bow massively. You should be fine with 18mm but its all dependant on how much supporting structure you have (i.e. the span between re-inforcing beams).
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mine is a 40mm box section frame and comes out on chains from the wall easy to push back to wall if i need the space 8)
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mine is a 40mm box section frame and comes out on chains from the wall easy to push back to wall if i need the space 8)
Does the adjustable angle set-up work for you, am considering this meself, any pics?
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yep i can set it at any angle easy.. i am a welder so made some brackets for the wall will put some pics on.............
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yep i can set it at any angle easy.. i am a welder so made some brackets for the wall will put some pics on.............
Any pics, yet?
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Anyone got any tips on where to buy ply in Sheff? Not for a board, but needs to look smart once painted. I'm guessing 12mm shuttering will be fine. Need about 30 sheets...
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Not for a woody? Yeah, i believe you, got a mate in prison etc? Say no more.
got mine from a builders/timber place in hillsborough, was relatively cheap.
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Whats the best way of fixing the plywood to a scaffolding frame, as i have the frame built and i have the wood ready.
Im think of using U bolts would these be ok?
Thanks Peter
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I would screw block of 3x2's or similar from the front of the ply either side of the scaffold and then put some metal strap or wood over the back of it. something like that anyway. I wouldn's want bolts sticking out of the front of my woody!
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Does anyone have pictures (or links to pics) of a woody built in a standard domestic garage space?
A lot of the links in this topic are broken..
Will be moving soon, and am thinking ahead of myself...
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Some pics here, but loads of links broken too.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7530.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7530.0.html)
Realised house is too small with little un? We've reached the same conclusion.
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Well, the house is a good size, but the garden isn't the biggest, and the little 'un will need at least a swing and somewhere to run around... should be moving to a house with a nice size garage off the dining room. mmmmm convenient!
cheers for the link.
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Hey all,
I'm building a small 40 degree woodie in my house, I've got the frame and supports supported but I'm stumped at where to get climbing holds from?
I'm going to build a few holds myself but I want some nice pockets and slopers which is pushing my carpentry skills too far..
Looking for around 80 to 100 holds for fairly cheap, an1 know a good place to get some?
Cheers!!
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Ok campers, thought I'd mine the ukb knowledge reserves... Where am I likely to find a good, cheap source of tee nuts and bolts from? Cheers!
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Ok campers, thought I'd mine the ukb knowledge reserves... Where am I likely to find a good, cheap source of tee nuts and bolts from? Cheers!
google fastener suppliers, i have a couple near me work in salford quays
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Not strictly a Woodie I`m building as I have "acquired" some scaffold poles (inc clips etc) :ninja:
Does anyone have any knowledge of how to build a wall from scaffold ? I`m not talking about putting the scaffold up, more attaching the word. I`m going for quite an ambitious build as a) My missus and sons dont boulder so need a flat wall to engage them in B) I`m not a complete amateur, so will need an angle c) I have plenty of space d) My uncle owns a concrete firm so footings/foundations are no problem.
So really you ideas/thoughts, hints, tips and fears about building one.
Oh I`m in Chesterfield if anyone wants to give real hands on help.
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I'm planning to make a free-standing board of similar dimensions to this:
http://usa.moonclimbing.com/images/website/SchoolRoom/pdf/MoonBoard.pdf (http://usa.moonclimbing.com/images/website/SchoolRoom/pdf/MoonBoard.pdf)
Does anyone know what sort of plywood I should be buying? I've looked at the following places:
http://www.tbrewer.co.uk/priceList/June-July-2011-Price-List.pdf (http://www.tbrewer.co.uk/priceList/June-July-2011-Price-List.pdf)
http://www.fulhamtimber.co.uk/sheetM_overview.html (http://www.fulhamtimber.co.uk/sheetM_overview.html)
and don't know which wood to get. Hardwood or softwood? Structural or non-structural? There seems to be a general consensus for 18mm deform-free plywood, but I can't find any other guidance.
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Just a heads up, looks like someone could get a real bargain here:
http://www.peteblacker.com/wall/ (http://www.peteblacker.com/wall/)
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Yeah, that amount of jugs is worth £1000 alone! ;)
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Looks nails....
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So the garage woody is nearly finished. What do people do about mats?
I've obviously got my bouldering mat, but as the wall is 40 degrees I may well be falling onto my back, so something akin to a mat you see at a bouldering wall would be better - how have people sourced this type of thing? ringing round sports halls? ebay? climbing walls?
I have a bunch of fuck alls left in the budget, so cheapo is the way to go, but what have people paid for this type of thing?
Any advice appreciated...
Cheers!
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get an old mattress or two, cover with an old rug/carpet off cuts, put the mat on top if needed..
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So the garage woody is nearly finished. What do people do about mats?
I've obviously got my bouldering mat, but as the wall is 40 degrees I may well be falling onto my back, so something akin to a mat you see at a bouldering wall would be better - how have people sourced this type of thing? ringing round sports halls? ebay? climbing walls?
I have a bunch of fuck alls left in the budget, so cheapo is the way to go, but what have people paid for this type of thing?
Any advice appreciated...
Cheers!
You could try my old friends at Cliffs Barn (rip) there was a fair bit of foam knocking about when i left and im sure if you offer them a fiver they'll snap your hands off for it. Worth a ring before you go down though. Paul
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Where abouts are you if you pick it up we have spare in the mill. You would need to cover it in old carpet to make it good.
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Merci, Dr. T. A good idea...
Cheers Paul, do you have a contact at Cliffs barn I could speak to perchance?
Hi Nodder, that sounds promising, I'm in Lancashire, Bolton based, whereabouts is the Mill?
Thanks!
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Im thinking of stripping the holds from my board and re-setting for the winter (its already winter up here to be fair)
Just wondering how often folk tend to re-set their boards and if it is usually a good move or does it sometimes feel like a bit of a mistake?
(I've had my current set up for just over a year)
Cheers
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I just reset my board for the first time but kept one or two problems i havent done. Definitely worth doing IMO keeps it feeling fresh and gives you new interesting ideas.
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As soon as the shed arrives (and the garage is emptied into it) I shall be building a board, Wo Hoo.
I'm thinking of building a free standing scaffold affair and have seen a few pics recently of walls being built with the scaffold boxed in with timber to then attach the ply to.
http://www.tca-glasgow.com/glasgow-climbing-blog/ (http://www.tca-glasgow.com/glasgow-climbing-blog/) there is an example of it here part way down the page.
Does anybody know exactly how the timber box is constructed/attached to the scaffold? Are they actually attached or just resting on the horizontal scaffold pole? Thickness of timber etc? Do the ends have a piece of timber with a circle cut in them?
Cheers
Dave
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I'm building a flat vertical traverse wall in our garage at the moment.....wanted to do some mad overhangs and a steep wall but it's rented and the wife was dead against it! SO, just having a traverse wall...better than nothing I guess :-\
What I want to do is screw some big ass volumes and shapes on to make it more difficult - does anyone have any good pics for inspiration or advice on building volumes? Was going to buy screw on fibreglass ones for ease like these (that rhymes) but they're not cheap!
http://www.ep-uk.com/store/browse/50 (http://www.ep-uk.com/store/browse/50)
Thanks
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nearly twenty years into climbing, and finally I started building my wall. as you know it's a consequence (a consequence, not the reason, mind... ;)) of moving back to Siena. I've almost finished the frame, managed to build it without touching the walls, because they are hollow. have a few pics, will post them.
I'm so psyched it's almost scary. almost.
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Lots of folk mentioning scaffold as a cheap/easy option vs wood but been looking into it and the only prices I can find seem quite high. Anyone got any pointers of where to check Sheffield way?
I'm looking at about 20-25metres of timber or maybe 3x10ft & 7x6ft and 2x8ft scaffold poles.
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I would of thought making it out of rough sawn timber far cheaper than scaffold
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Yo,
Been thinking about building a board. The only problem i have is the height i have to play with 7'. So Ive done some rough calculations and came up with this 400mm kickboard, board length 2200mm at an angle of 40 degrees.
So what do you think. Will it work or will it be to short?
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I am in the process of renovating a house and it has a decent sized basement split by structural walls. I am considering building a climbing cave, but am not sure how much use it would see. For those of you with a home wall, how much use does it see and is it worth the expense and time required to build it? Or would I be better with a finger board?
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I am in the process of renovating a house and it has a decent sized basement split by structural walls. I am considering building a climbing cave, but am not sure how much use it would see. For those of you with a home wall, how much use does it see and is it worth the expense and time required to build it? Or would I be better with a finger board?
Why hasn't this post got girls in it? In fact why is it even in this thread?
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I am in the process of renovating a house and it has a decent sized basement split by structural walls. I am considering building a climbing cave, but am not sure how much use it would see. For those of you with a home wall, how much use does it see and is it worth the expense and time required to build it? Or would I be better with a finger board?
My board cost me roughly 1000 euros, half of which for the wood and half for the holds, many holds. It's 4x3,6 meters.
I use it almost everyday and it has changed my life.
Do it.
And put up a fingerboard.
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If anyone is using scaffolding to build a wall, I think I have still have some fittings for attaching the board to the scaffold. PM if anyone is interested and I will dig them out.
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Why hasn't this post got girls in it? In fact why is it even in this thread?
Please accept my apologies. I hope the recent additions to said thread make up for it.
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For those of you with a home wall, how much use does it see and is it worth the expense and time required to build it? Or would I be better with a finger board?
I think only you can answer that. A mate built a great cellar board, but I used to use it more than he did, but then there are people like Nibile who live on theirs.
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I use my small attic board a couple of times a week, but before I had kids and didn't have to stay in 3 nights a week to look after them I hardly used the one I had..
Depends if you crave novelty and friends during training sessions or prefer ease of access and customisability.
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I built one in my cellar, about 12x12 at 60 deg, lashed it with randomly with holds. It got used for a bit then the novelty wore off. This year i changed it into a mirrored system ish board.. now i use it twice a week and have done for 6 months.. routines and structured sessions help massively for me to get motivated down there. Oh yeah get a fingerboard as well ;) and a big stereo and some :punk: tunes.
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A good quality and variety of holds is crucial. On my board I also have some symmetric holds, so that I can use it for system training. It helps you to put in a session when you're a bit tired or doesn't feel like climbing. Plus, with system training, to me it's easier to control volume and intensity.
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I've just got hold of some boards 3 x 4ft by 8ft plus a 12inch kick board. So I can have a board 12 ft wide by 8ft. However it needs to be freestanding as its going in an annex which just has plasterboard walls attached to a timber frame and although the floor is concrete it has underfloor heating pipes under it.Thinking of around 40 degree angle.
Any suggestions for a frame to attach it to.
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Started plans for building a woodie in the garage, due to stairs and doors I am really restriced by layout but can get 2.4m x 2.4m @ 25 deg with a 25cm kicker which I am quite happy about.
Would it be worth doing away with the kicker, is it really need @ 25 deg? It would make construction far easier.
If I went straight from roof to floor I would have to reduce the angle to 22.5 deg.
Graham
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Did you read this: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16281.msg284010.html#msg284010 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16281.msg284010.html#msg284010) ?
Just finishing up the plans for my board now and looking at the details of the kick board. Fun times.
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Whilst I'm injured, I figured I'd take the opportunity to overhaul/redesign my board and make it a bit more versatile, so could do with some UKB advice. I currently have a stepped board (steep roof, shallow headwall + Beastmaker) which has done me proud for years and I think makes good use of low height (2.5 m), but I'm thinking about replacing it with a flat board. Question is: what angle to go for? 30 to 45 degrees seems common, but wondering what would be best for both bouldering and circuits. I'm erring towards shallower since nearly every indoor wall as steep stuff to play on if I want it. And I won't be making some adjustable thing with chains and all that. Maybe I should just stick with what I've got and change all the holds. Shit, I don't know.
Cheers.
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My board is only 1.8m high or something and is good as a flat board at approx 48 degrees. If you are keen for a project then replace your board with a flat steep board, if not then keep it the same as it is now. Simples.
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48 degrees!? Now you're just making me feel like a wuss!
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My board is only 1.8m high or something and is good as a flat board at approx 48 degrees.
Similar board in my shed - I was getting a little tired of it so I ordered a symmetrical set from the beastmaker boys
Interesting how doing the same problems in two different directions alters the "grade" - certainly shows up imbalances...
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A dilemma;
24 deg board, might hit freezer if I fall off near top vs 30 deg will definitely land on freezer. Got quite a lot of padding available if needed, but would like to avoid freezer related landings if possible. Can't move freezer, can't really move board without eating into space set aside for phase 2 (45 deg board).
Also hardwood ply or softwood ply? Or are either OK?
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Less steep and smaller or worse holds??
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Also hardwood ply or softwood ply? Or are either OK?
Pine should be fine Chris, Birch is superior, but far more expensive .......Thing to check on is the number of plies laminated together, the more the better ..........
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Just use the cheapest stuff you can find. We built the school out of absolute shite reject shuttering ply and the boards are still fine now having had a lot of miles on them. (admittedly not much in the last five years.)
The only reasons commercail walls used the better stuff is1)looks and 2) they repeatedly screw and unscrew holds gradually filling the boards with holes. I am pretty sure that the average home wall would not have a problem with this.
Also with holds, the school holds were given a lot of hammer over the years but i guess 75% of the holds were wood, a majority of these were made from off cut softwoods dug out of a skip. Some of them the edges snapped off but this either happened straight away or after years of abuse. 90% of them were fine.
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Cheers guys.
Yeah I think less steep board and worse holds is probably the way to go. I've got quite a few holds already (bought from dave years ago!) plus a shitload of bits of softwood from the frame of a (now dismantled) sofa the was left behind in the house when we moved in (kept the seatcushions!). The round feet from the sofa will make good holds too. Reduce, reuse, recycle.
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could you not put a board over the freezer at an angle and pad that out?
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Cheers guys.
Yeah I think less steep board and worse holds is probably the way to go. I've got quite a few holds already (bought from dave years ago!) plus a shitload of bits of softwood from the frame of a (now dismantled) sofa the was left behind in the house when we moved in (kept the seatcushions!). The round feet from the sofa will make good holds too. Reduce, reuse, recycle.
cragx board? Best fingerboard there is IMO (footwork will suffer though, given they never move and you only ever have one foot on).
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Sorry, you confused me? What's the cragx board? I'm looking to build a woodie, got about 2.6 m of height. I've got a beastmaker fingerboard / pullup bar combo already.
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Gently overhanging, hanging start. Terrible holds etc.
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Ah ok.
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My eldest has asked me to build her a climbing wall cave in the unused half of my workshop.
I was wondering what holds people on here have bought and can recommend in terms of quality, variety, realism (like a real rock feature rather than a letter or number or animal shape)?
I like GME's idea of cutting and shaping bits of wood into holds as you could probably come up with some holds, but I would guess that using these as feet holds is what wrecks them?
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90% of the holds on my board are wood and we do use the hold for feet aswell, unless they have sharp edges then they tend to be ok and don't get wrecked apart from having a layer of rubber on them but this can be brushed or sanded off easily. The type of wood you use also makes a difference, Hardwood stands up a lot better than soft wood but it isnt as grippy.
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I think the wooden holds in my local wall were not of the best quality as they have a lot of splits.
I did see a video a while back of a home made wall where someone had made some great slopers by gluing some sandpaper over some halved 9" posts. Can't blooming well find it on youtube now though.
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(http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/assets/products-homepage-images/grit_super_slopers.jpg)
I'm liking the core climbing holds grit range. Anyone got any of these?
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They've got some at Craggy 2 - I like 'em :shrug:
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(http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/assets/products-homepage-images/grit_super_slopers.jpg)
I'm liking the core climbing holds grit range. Anyone got any of these?
is the colour based on the headless horseman arête video?
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Saw this on Reddit. Pretty impressive effort.
http://imgur.com/a/lAaYy (http://imgur.com/a/lAaYy)
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Saw this on Reddit. Pretty impressive effort.
http://imgur.com/a/lAaYy (http://imgur.com/a/lAaYy)
Wow, nice rebuild...
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Yep I'm liking that
I've just been working out the sizes panels and angles of the cave I'm building for the kids.
So far I've come up with these:
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/809/et7l.jpg)
Right hand side panels
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/845/e49c.jpg)
Left hand side panels
Room is 3.6 x 2.4, Central Room height is 2.36m
Now to calc how many holds i'll need :o
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That's pretty complex amd may be more of a faff to build than it's worth, unless you are a master carpenter. Worry about how many t nuts you'll need first. Buying and putting holds up is the easy bit.
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That's just the ply surfaces, I will have room surrounding it to build the frame.
I plan on spending some considerable time down there to build it. Just hope I don't do a Caldwell :-\
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Apologies if this has been covered.
I'm keen to build a moonboard, or something of similar dimensions but it needs to be free standing and rain covered as I don't have room indoors or a suitable fixed outdoor structure to build it on.
Does anyone have any suggestions or built anything similar?
Thanks.
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Rodders, I've nearly finished my garden moonboard.
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10257854_1435646540023772_7527361775491648474_n.jpg)
I just need to put the felting cover on the back and its weather proofed. Its the full size moonboard. Was reasonable easy to put together and doesn't flex as much as the other outdoor board designs I saw.
I intend to put some playground chippings below to cover the concrete too.
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(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/10352044_1434673836787709_8893447259874958623_n.jpg)
Better angled shot before the top bracing went on.
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Those are some serious supporting beams.
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Its over engineered as I want it to withstand a hurricane.
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Excellent, thanks for the response.
What are you using for the beams? My yard is concreted so something like that may work for me.
Any estimate how much this cost you? How do you plan to cover?
Cheers.
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I'm basically going to panel the back and put felt on it. If I want to put a canopy on the front, I will get a canvas one made up to clip on and off. I will see how I feel about climbing in the rain...
The beams are (100mm diameter x 3.6m) machined round timber posts.
These were £14 each
The swing brackets were off ebay. I think they were £50 for the pair
The treated timber for the frame work was £13 per 4.8m length
The wbp ply was around £25 per sheet 18mm & 6mm for the rear cover panels.
Price breakdown:
£298 all timber items
£50 Brackets
£30 all fixings and treatments for the exposed metals
£25 for all tee nuts and bolts. (Lucky ebay bulk auction!)
£120 for school set B holds £10 for footholds
£20 for felt
£20 for concrete
£573 total which looking back was more than I thought it was going to be. However you may be able to do it cheaper as mine is OTT
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Nice job!
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Hey thanks for the info!
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No worries, If you search the forums for 'moon board' it might bring up the thread about a moon board that from memory was being made of steel beams and was completely free standing. I think it was from last year?
That might be the same cost and could be built much quicker/easier?
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Is this the thread? - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22572.msg412122.html#msg412122 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22572.msg412122.html#msg412122)
Good shout - looks awesome but am guessing the steel frame wouldn't be cheap or easy to build.
The cost isn't the main thing (within reason), just whether I could build it or find someone else to without screwing it up,
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Yep, that's the beast.
I don't see a price for it anywhere?
I would like to see how much it flexes when a fat arsed git like myself gets on it and bounces before dynamic moves.
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Is it really for sale? Had presumed that was a wind up. I'm sure there'd be a hefty postage charge if it is!
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It was a demo board for a trade show stand. The board bit is now in the new schoolroom. not sure where the steel work went.
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Bit of an update, my youngest Daughter was upset she couldn't climb on the moonboard as it is too overhanging. So I panelled the side section for her.
Apparently I agreed to paint it this colour about 5am last sunday if her and her sister were quiet and let me lay in a bit.
(http://38.media.tumblr.com/9b99a5f394d64b2784fbe4e624144fba/tumblr_n7ot48Vbm31sujrq9o1_1280.jpg)
Ideal to keep a two year old happy.
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Any suggestions for optimum spacing for t nuts? Like to have as much scope for variation as possible, but not too close together that half don't get used (and it costs me loads!). And is diamond layout better than square. It's for a 30 deg board.
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awesome mini-person section Fadanoid! No doubt I'll need to do the same with my garage board extension...
Any suggestions for optimum spacing for t nuts? Like to have as much scope for variation as possible, but not too close together that half don't get used (and it costs me loads!). And is diamond layout better than square. It's for a 30 deg board.
Chris, I used 8 ish inches as spacing which has been fine for me, in-fill can be acheived with random screw ons. I wouldn't want it any bigger as my board is only 8 feet wide, allowing 11 'columns' of bolted holds... (A to the K my friend...).
You started building yet?
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I think a square lay out is better than a diamond. Mine is diamond, and it means you cant do perfectly symmetrical problems (if you fancy trying a bit of that). Unless you start your diamond layout from the middle of the board, rather than from one side, if you know what I mean.
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The moon board spacings are 20cms/8" and seems to work well.
On the small one I just literally picked random points and tried to keep them symentrical by eye. Still need to put a couple more in the lowest half meter after our testing session before their bedtime wednesday.
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Just built a wall in my garage, totally free-standing and not attached to the house in any way due to the interesting cracks in the kitchen wall behind (& gas pipes running round the base of the wall) and the bouncy nature of the floor above so an A-frame construction each side with a double 2x4 as cross-brace at the top. 230cm wide, 270 vertical height, 35 degrees overhanging so just under 3m climbable length. 20cm kickboard.
Possibly slightly over-engineered (2x6's are thick...) but better that than wobbly given it will probably have kids swinging on it sooner or later. ~£450 in wood, including the racking behind. Main frame 2x4s at a 40cm spacing, 18mm ply, front and side braces on the A-frame 2x6.
A few pics to give an idea of the construction, in case it helps anyone with a similar situation. I have an Autocad drawing as well (drew it out first before I started measuring and cutting, surprisingly it all went together first go!)
The frame without ply:
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3917/14979004110_24c19fa6d1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oPDj4y)IMG_20140809_183732048 (https://flic.kr/p/oPDj4y) by chrispj35 (https://www.flickr.com/people/45765493@N07/), on Flickr
A-frame bracing:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/14979000340_bb2d32e83e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oPDhWy)IMG_20140907_114614321 (https://flic.kr/p/oPDhWy) by chrispj35 (https://www.flickr.com/people/45765493@N07/), on Flickr
With the ply:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14979003000_5d613ee1c5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/oPDiJq)IMG_20140907_114204134 (https://flic.kr/p/oPDiJq) by chrispj35 (https://www.flickr.com/people/45765493@N07/), on Flickr
Now to get to work (needs more small holds...)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/15165667465_242beb3dcc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/p791zg)IMG_20140907_114426414 (https://flic.kr/p/p791zg) by chrispj35 (https://www.flickr.com/people/45765493@N07/), on Flickr
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nice!
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Thanks! Have spent the afternoon sitting in the garage surrounded by holds... Can anyone recommend a set of slopers that would work on a 35 degree overhang? (for a mid-grade boulderer who can do V6 on a really good day...)
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Just built a wall in my garage, totally free-standing and not attached to the house in any way due to the interesting cracks in the kitchen wall behind (& gas pipes running round the base of the wall) and the bouncy nature of the floor above so an A-frame construction each side with a double 2x4 as cross-brace at the top. 230cm wide, 270 vertical height, 35 degrees overhanging so just under 3m climbable length. 20cm kickboard.
Possibly slightly over-engineered (2x6's are thick...) but better that than wobbly given it will probably have kids swinging on it sooner or later. ~£450 in wood, including the racking behind. Main frame 2x4s at a 40cm spacing, 18mm ply, front and side braces on the A-frame 2x6.
A few pics to give an idea of the construction, in case it helps anyone with a similar situation. I have an Autocad drawing as well (drew it out first before I started measuring and cutting, surprisingly it all went together first go!)
That looks good! I have a similar size space and issues with attaching the frame directly to the walls. Was wondering whether a free-standing frame would work, but unfortunately I'm crap at DIY (I got a D in my woodwork GCSE) so haven't taken the idea beyond a few sketches. Would you be up for sharing the DWG with a hapless novice?
Cheers
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Am a bit madly busy just now as I'm off on a work trip 1st thing tomorrow, but will tidy the drawing up in a couple of days and put it in dropbox and post up a link. If I haven't done it by the middle of next week drop me a pm to remind me as I'm rubbish at remembering to do things...
So far I can confirm it seems well over-engineered as there isn't the slightest creak or any sag when I'm swinging on it. I imagine with the double 2x4 as the cross joist at the top the board could be a reasonable amount wider before you would encounter any problems.
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Cheers, will do
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Here you go:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70373717/Climbing%20wall%20frame.dwg
Hopefully it all makes sense. Dimensions are metres. Basic A-frame construction is fairly simple, each brace at the side being held by 2x 10m bolt + washers at each joint. I suspect the braces could quite happily have been 2x4 rather than 2x6, especially the one at the base, which should just be taking a certain amount of tension stopping the base of the triangle spreading apart.
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Nice work.
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Excellent! Thanks very much, will give me something to work with. Cheers for sharing
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I'd like to build a board in my garage but the biggest drawback I have is lack of height - only about 7ft.
Is it going to be worth it? Any tips on how to make the most of the height available. Clearly the steeper it is the more I can get out of it but I am not strong and about to turn 50 so I don't want to injure myself.
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7 ft is OK, I've been on walls using 6 foot in height and managed to get good sessions in. Anywhere between 30 and 45 deg will give you a good space to work especially if you've got good width and keep kickboard to minimum.
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My board in the attic is only 6ft high and I climb on it loads and really enjoy it. It is nearly 50 degrees but I started off with it covered in jugs so a decent work out and no injury. The hold size has reduced slightly in the 3 yrs or so I have been on it.
I can do a couple of useful moves straight up and do 5 or so move rising traverses and can do laps across, up, across down etc.
I have a huge 1ft high kickboard, the board could have been less steep if the kick board had not been so high.
In short, 7ft is bloody luxury, get it built.
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In short
boom boom
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Building a 50 degree outdoor woody with 3660mm of climbing length and a 200mm kickboard. So bloody psyched, no bouldering whatsoever where I live. Got a carpenter helping out because with the whole structural part of it, and going to be making some Malcesque wooden holds and planning on having a G-corner with posters of the almighty man himself. Pics will definitely be forthcoming.
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We've had an offer accepted on a house (YYFY), and I'm planning on building a woody in the garden. Does anyone know what height / size limits you can build to before you run into planning issues (I'm not planning anything ridiculously huge, just wanting to avoid problems)? I think I've read 2.5m high for outbuildings? Also, does anyone have recommendations on good methods to anchor to the ground - is it best to concrete posts into the ground, or concrete some post-bases into the ground, or use some sort of screw-in/hammer-in ground anchor?
Any other tips for building an outdoor woody?
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Word. This is me crib. Note garage location below living room, 60s construction:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8611/16612006596_59209d9a85_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/riWSNQ)Crib (https://flic.kr/p/riWSNQ) by Hunta_998 (https://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
This is the garage. Please ignore assorted shite/cast offs from parents/general disarray. Note: asbestos tiles to the ceiling, brick wall to the rear and sides.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/16430450987_7748cc2ff2_s.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r2UmDH)IMG_20150224_203321 (https://flic.kr/p/r2UmDH) by Hunta_998 (https://www.flickr.com/people/34726894@N00/), on Flickr
Have recently been offered access to PeeWees board, which I fully intend to take him up on soon. However it all depends on planets aligning with transport/girlfriends shifts/music lessons blah blah blah. Likewise getting to The Depot. I think the only real long term solution is to build my own facility and bring the psyche to me.
Dimensions are thus: 245cm width across the back; about 250cm height (that's stopping a good few 5-10cm short of the dreaded asbestos); 350cm of usable depth in the garage. CAVEAT! This garage will still need to store bikes, small chest freezer, garden shizzle, DIY shizzle and other assorted shite - so there needs to be a compromise on space somewhere.d
Questions:
- What should I go for? Traditional steep board against the back wall, or long and shallower gradient system board type effort going along a side wall (primary use will be to get stronger for the boulders).
- What basic construction should I employ? Freestanding? Bolt a kickboard to the brickwork and attach to that? Any plans that someone can show me?
- How wide/tall/steep does a board need to be in order to be useful and fun to use? I've only really been on Andy Popp's board before which was mega and has endless possibilities. From memory, it's not overly deep, but is quite broad and steep. In this instance, it would be very very useful to retain some storage space at the side for bikes/ladders etc etc. Will I need to use the full 245cm width to make something worthwhile?
I think those are my most burning questions. Having done some calcs just now (not accounting for the kickboard so these figures are slight overestimations), assuming that the full 250cm of height is utilised then a 40 degree board would take up 210cm of garage depth and give 326cm of climbing. A 45 degree board would use 250cm depth and give 353cm of climbing. My preferred option would be the 40 degree board to leave as much space as possible, however it would be interesting to hear opinions on whether 326cm (less whatever the kickboard is) is a worthwhile length of climbing.
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Hi Will
Mine (on the previous page of the thread) is broadly similar - slightly taller (270cm) but shallower (35 degrees) so I have slightly less climbing length than yours would - just under 3m from top of kickboard (20cm), 230cm wide. Totally freestanding due to gas pipes running along the back wall.
It gives me problems between 3 and 5 moves. It would be nice to have another half metre of width (and height) but it is big enough that I don't feel too restricted. I would have thought you should be ok with the 40 degree plan.
If you can open a dwg file there's a link to the plan for it in my dropbox on the previous page of the thread. The wall is freestanding due to gas pipe running round the bottom of the back wall. In reflection with the design I would have moved the cross bar at the top to behind the wall structure (freeing up space for another row of holds) though this would have made it tricky to hang the rings... I think the side frame could be reduced from 2x6 to 2x4 as well as the structure is well over engineered.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8640/16641161912_cd8d149ba1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rmwiEG)IMG_20150225_083727663 (https://flic.kr/p/rmwiEG) by chrispj35 (https://www.flickr.com/people/45765493@N07/), on Flickr
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with regards to the storage vs wall area,
hopefully Shark will read this and post some pics of his inside-the-wall storage system
looked cool
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with regards to the storage vs wall area,
hopefully Shark will read this and post some pics of his inside-the-wall storage system
looked cool
Cant take the credit as it was Steve Mac's idea and I had a joiner build it. Works really well as the spaces are so usable/accessible and it is surprising how much space there is. The locks hold the panel in place really well. Probably be better to have the hinges on the inside but those one's were spare and unused.
Lagers - have you got enough jugs now ? as I said when you came over I have plenty spare
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8635/16456644739_1d4a0f4314_m.jpg)
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8611/16456656089_d97e099c8b_m.jpg)
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8619/16642833655_84918f5f40_m.jpg)
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Lagers - have you got enough jugs now ? as I said when you came over I have plenty spare
could do with more - Jack (3) seems to struggle with some of the reaches and slopers - possibly due to him trying to copy my shoddy footwork
I'll phone you later
extreme mardiness and negativity has slowed development on the secret training facility, but it is well into the setting phase thanks to consuming plenty of Get-A-Fucking-Grip suplements
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I love the back-board storage space.
One winter I was caught by a storm while midway up my board, on a nasty two move traverse at high altitude. I had planned to do everything in under 24 hrs, being back to the kitchen right for my Spritz, so I had no bivvy gear, nothing. I was soloing, also.
God I felt so little up there, all alone on the board, with the force of elements all around. My girlfriend in the living room seemed incredibly far. She was there knowing nothing about my epic.
I would have given all I have to find a little shelter in the back of the board, sitting the storm out. But no. I hadn't provided any access to the back, so the only chance I had was either reverse the move I had already done and face all the rappels down to the mats, then try and navigate my way back to the bedroom and the kitchen; or try and go up, do the other move that was still missing, and reach the top, risking my life, putting everything into it, for that brief moment in which all your soul is into what you're doing; that brief moment in which there's no difference between what you want to do, and what you are doing; that brief moment in which there's no difference between what you are and what you are doing.
And I went up.
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a lesser man would have resorted to using knee-bars
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I love the back-board storage space.
One winter I was caught by a storm while midway up my board, on a nasty two move traverse at high altitude. I had planned to do everything in under 24 hrs, being back to the kitchen right for my Spritz, so I had no bivvy gear, nothing. I was soloing, also.
God I felt so little up there, all alone on the board, with the force of elements all around. My girlfriend in the living room seemed incredibly far. She was there knowing nothing about my epic.
I would have given all I have to find a little shelter in the back of the board, sitting the storm out. But no. I hadn't provided any access to the back, so the only chance I had was either reverse the move I had already done and face all the rappels down to the mats, then try and navigate my way back to the bedroom and the kitchen; or try and go up, do the other move that was still missing, and reach the top, risking my life, putting everything into it, for that brief moment in which all your soul is into what you're doing; that brief moment in which there's no difference between what you want to do, and what you are doing; that brief moment in which there's no difference between what you are and what you are doing.
And I went up.
:lol: Nibs' tales from the Stollenloch!
Thanks all for the replies.
Simon, that internal storage idea is ingenius! I think it might be a bit complex for my carpentry skills (non-existant) and I'll definitely want to keep costs down and do the job between me and my dad (he doesn't know this yet).
I think Chris' rear storage shelving idea is an excellent idea. Cheap and simple, it would turn practically that whole back wall into much needed shelving which should make it much easier to get the permission slip signed by 'er indoors. I suppose the compromise to be made there is you'd have to leave some space at the side (a foot?) to get round the back. The whole construction would need to come forward off the back wall by perhaps 50cm to leave room to walk around the back. Would definitely need a freestanding construct then.
Next job is to have a big sort out in the garage and draw up some proper plans :boxing:
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Simon, that internal storage idea is ingenius! I think it might be a bit complex for my carpentry skills (non-existant) and I'll definitely want to keep costs down and do the job between me and my dad (he doesn't know this yet).
I think Chris' rear storage shelving idea is an excellent idea. Cheap and simple, it would turn practically that whole back wall into much needed shelving which should make it much easier to get the permission slip signed by 'er indoors. I suppose the compromise to be made there is you'd have to leave some space at the side (a foot?) to get round the back.
The other thing is that the shelves will be really long and nightmarish to retrieve stuff from the back unless you can access both sides in which case that is more square footage lost from your board.
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a lesser man would have resorted to using knee-bars
All was lost, save honour.
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Simon, that internal storage idea is ingenius! I think it might be a bit complex for my carpentry skills (non-existant) and I'll definitely want to keep costs down and do the job between me and my dad (he doesn't know this yet).
I think Chris' rear storage shelving idea is an excellent idea. Cheap and simple, it would turn practically that whole back wall into much needed shelving which should make it much easier to get the permission slip signed by 'er indoors. I suppose the compromise to be made there is you'd have to leave some space at the side (a foot?) to get round the back.
The other thing is that the shelves will be really long and nightmarish to retrieve stuff from the back unless you can access both sides in which case that is more square footage lost from your board.
Yep. You'd need to leave a narrow walkway along the back so you could get to any bit of the shelf I.e. bring the whole thing forward off the back wall.
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I do like Shark's in-wall storage. I would be lost on how to build it without the door eventually swinging open with me hanging on it...
I have about 60cm on each side for access to the shelving, due to constraints of pre-existing workbenches etc. This is enough to post in things like a 180cm snowboard, 5'4" kite surfboard, the rest of my kiting and snowboard gear etc. A small gap round one side and then a walkway round the back would have made a lot of sense (I am kicking myself), would have been really easy with the freestanding A-frame construction.
(The missus has just reminded me that if I did drag it forward the A-frame would block the door from the house into the garage... doh!)
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you could do a hybrid of what shark did and have a removable panel in the centre held on with countersunk bolts and tnuts, that way you don't have to employ too much carpentry skill and it should stop you from using it to store stuff that you need access to on a daily basis. our campus board cupboard is a nightmare, made it way too easy to use, so have ended up storing consumables in there, meaning that the door ends up ajar a lot of the time
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The other thing is that the shelves will be really long and nightmarish to retrieve stuff from the back unless you can access both sides in which case that is more square footage lost from your board.
what have you got holding the door shut Shark?
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Will you wouldn't need a foot of walkway space at the back. Just put a foot worth of ply down flat, you'd only need say 4 offcuts to balance this on the back of the ply of the board. Even if you only have access to one side you'll still have a lot of space. You could even have the back walkway as the "front" of your storage
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Nice hinges!!!
You could easily do away with them buy fixing a small block in each corner of the door frame, each with a hole and T-nut so that the door can be fixed back with 'secret' fixings.
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Hello, helloooo , is there anybody there? :D
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Nice hinges!!!
You could easily do away with them buy fixing a small block in each corner of the door frame, each with a hole and T-nut so that the door can be fixed back with 'secret' fixings.
Nice one Fritzl
Best leave plenty of space to get round the side/back or go easy on the protein shakes!
(https://www.flickr.com/photos/34726894@N00/12977509934/in/photostream/)
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Soz rodma, I just saw the pic of a HUGE pair of aircraft hanger hinges with a bit of ply nailed to the back and dashed into a reply without reading the shiz below! x
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Hehe, glad others thought the giant gate hinges were a bit ott
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Probably be better to have the hinges on the inside but those one's were spare and unused.
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The other thing is that the shelves will be really long and nightmarish to retrieve stuff from the back unless you can access both sides in which case that is more square footage lost from your board.
what have you got holding the door shut Shark?
Dunno what they are called but there is one at the top, one at the bottom and three at the side and look like this:
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8594/16028331683_62936caf13_m.jpg)
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8591/16028331043_bf19418419_m.jpg)
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Shark I don't mean to sound rude but that looks like the most over-engineered worst board I have ever seen! What is it 5degrees? I hope it's just an awkward camera angle?
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Shark I don't mean to sound rude but that looks like the most over-engineered worst board I have ever seen! What is it 5degrees? I hope it's just an awkward camera angle?
15 degrees at a guess. There are shit screw on footholds to compensate. I like it. The angle/moves feel much more like what I'm training for. Had a long chat with Steve Mac and he reckoned this sort of angle was more useful. Best of all there is more room to play table tennis. I can go to the School or Foundry if I want to go on a steep board.
(http://farm9.static.flickr.com/8620/16466118879_50b0d3b02d_m.jpg)
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Nobody should have to endure table tennis!
I take it it's higher than it looks as well? With fboard being at that height. When I said worse I automatically take mine out of the equation ;D
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I've cleared the garage of crap and so this could be happening this weekend, dependent on availability of the Oily Rag (Dad). Which means I need wood. Some 2x6 for the main frame and a load of 2x4 for everything else and some sheets of ply.
Ply - 18mm, yes?
Looking at Jewson's website, most of what they offer seems to be "Whitewood". I gather that this is a marketing term for "whatever shit we happen to have in at the time". I take it that this is unlikely to be a hardwood. Is it essential to get hardwood? If so, where do you get it? The main retailers seem to stock nothing but "whitewood".
Regularised - I suppose this means whether it's planed or not?
Treated - The garage may get a little damp but I doubt having the wood treated is necessary. True?
Kiln-dried - What? Advisable? I suppose if you use wood that hasn't been completely dried then it might warp over time as it dries out?
C16/C24 - I gather this is a strength rating. Is C16 sufficient? I'm afraid I have no idea.
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The most important thing is to get straight timbers in the first place. Store them flat prior to building your board and then build the thing. One or is all tired together it is unlikely to warp much if at all.
Regularised will be better if you are clambering around the back frequently. If not off-saw will be fine.
Kiln dried tends to split a little more easily.
Whitewood is just softwood.
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c16 is fine
worth thinking about structural timber screws instead of bolts for structual fixings
piss to waz in and out with a decent battery drill
the 6.3mm ones are easier on the wrist than the 6.5/6.7mm ones in awkward positions (my weedy 10v drill managed OK)
eg
http://www.screwfix.com/p/timberfix-plus-flanged-hex-exterior-timber-screws-6-3-x-100-pk50/80050 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/timberfix-plus-flanged-hex-exterior-timber-screws-6-3-x-100-pk50/80050)
or for fixing your frame to the ceiling joists, use longer ones
(I am not an engineer, doctor, builder or carpenter)
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Baildon timber has a good reputation for wood. B&TS is also very good and where I go to get...err, wood.
Also henshaw's, on henshaw lane by the JCT roundabout, is very good if you want straight timber. Nice guys there too. If you go to wickes for timber you'll be disappointed. I've never used Jewson.
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I used Jewson (2 minutes away from our house), they were good to deal with (of course the branch near you may differ). Think I chose from this range: http://www.jewson.co.uk/timber/carcassing-cls-batten/strength-graded-timber/joists/ (http://www.jewson.co.uk/timber/carcassing-cls-batten/strength-graded-timber/joists/) for the frame.
The wood has C16 and dried stamped on it (among many other meaningless acronyms)....
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I ended up getting C16 2x4s from B&Q because of convenience and because they were £4 for 8ft - and I only needed 8ft lengths
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C16 (IIRC ) refers to the number of knots. The higher the grade, the fewer knots.
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Word on Baildon Timber. Called in after work and they were helpful.
Sorry for endless stream of punter questions but...
18mm ply - hard or soft :???:
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Cheapest. If there's nothing in it, choose the prettiest :wub:
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http://www.screwfix.com/p/timberfix-plus-flanged-hex-exterior-timber-screws-6-3-x-100-pk50/80050 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/timberfix-plus-flanged-hex-exterior-timber-screws-6-3-x-100-pk50/80050)
I'd class myself in the terrible at DIY/making things work category, but I've just built a board in my shed and the salvation was the liberal use of these screws smashed in with a half decent electric drill (I think Wickes call them decking screws). They seem pretty bomb-proof.
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I know I've asked lots and lots of stupid questions. Thank you all for your help so far. I hope that soon my education will be complete.
In the meantime, I want to make sure that before I order and twat in a massive quantity of T-Nuts that I'm getting the right thing.
Standard T-Nut for a climbing hold is M10, right? They will take all normal holds, right? This kind?
http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/shop/fixings/m10-t-nuts/pronged-t-nuts-100.html (http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/shop/fixings/m10-t-nuts/pronged-t-nuts-100.html)
Was a bit perturbed that neither screwfix, nor b and q seem to stock these, but their prices aren't too good anyway so its probably best to buy in bulk from a climbing specialist shop I guess.
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Cant remember what they're called, but you can get t-nut like things but instead of prongs they have holes for 3 small screws. More work initially but they don't fall out and/or fuck up your plywood by falling out and being re-inserted regularly.
Alternatively you can just screw all your holds on. In my experience hold movement is infrequent enough that you don't really need to worry about fucking up your plywood.
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I used the core round T-nuts, as remus says a little more work initially to put in the 2 screws but then much less chance of them spinning at a later date (& then having to climb behind the shelving to fix the thing!)
http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/shop/fixings/m10-t-nuts/round-t-nuts-100.html (http://www.coreclimbing.co.uk/shop/fixings/m10-t-nuts/round-t-nuts-100.html)
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+1 for screw-on T-nuts.
The ones I used had 3 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( screws... I thought that it would be overkill to put in all 3, but then I thought that I didn't want to touch them anymore in the future... So I spent two afternoons after work putting more than 1000 little screws in...
More mentally challenging than training PE on a fingerboard.
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Thanks chaps. I'm studiously ignoring your advice and getting the smack in ones. I will twat them in good and proper and it won't be a big issue to get round the back in future.
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It's worth putting one little screw against one of the prongs. Belt and braces.
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Bit of a stressful day with an uncertain start. Propping up the rear frame and bringing in the front supports was interesting - neither healthy nor safe. But...
... IT IS COMING
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7624/16756412722_4f8f4e5801_k.jpg)
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Bit of a stressful day with an uncertain start. Propping up the rear frame and bringing in the front supports was interesting - neither healthy nor safe. But...
... IT IS COMING
Looks well built. Are you planning on getting heavier?!
If you want I could help out by getting you some extra garage keys cut :lol:
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You keen, Andy? Need to get a crew together for evening sessions eventually.
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You keen, Andy? Need to get a crew together for evening sessions eventually.
:great:
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Bit of a stressful day with an uncertain start. Propping up the rear frame and bringing in the front supports was interesting - neither healthy nor safe. But...
... IT IS COMING
Looking good! Possibly the one useful bit of info I forgot to mention was that I built the A frames first, propped them up, put the cross-bar across and then started on the rear joists... ;D
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That is approximately what I'd planned to do originally but Dad had a different idea. In the planning phase on Saturday he acquiesced but when we were actually in the swing of it his idea seemed better.
Different to you, there are no coach bolts that go through everything at the top (couldn't source any long enough). The front supports are screwed to the front top bar and each joist is screwed into the rear top bar. Two cross bars are then joined at the top with coach bolts that sit between the joists (so able to get away with 5 inch coach bolts).
Fairly sure that when the front to back A braces go on then it will be suitably over engineered :)
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Fair enough - my only help was a 6 month pregnant wife who confined herself to useful comments like "don't chop your foot off with that saw..."
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Good effort. I definitely needed an extra pair of hands. I don't think there's a right or wrong way of doing it. Same same but different.
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It is accomplished. Thank you to all who offered help and advice. The amount of storage at the back is insane (plus Dad put an extra light in so its nice and bright at the back too).
Turned the garage from this:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8610/16430450987_7748cc2ff2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/r2UmDH)
To this!
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7639/16636682800_fa74d67a36_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rm8mbC)
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Do you know there's a body on the floor.
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No room for it on the shelves.
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there's some fucked up photoshoppery going on in the bottom right corner of the wall
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First a body then a black cats tail poking from behind the board. What sort of training facility is this.
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A little bird tells me that you've gone for the 'build it first, then apply for retrospective planning permission' technique!!!! :spank:
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Not quite. I did pester her sufficiently (over about 2 years) to prompt the words "Do what you want, I don't give a shit". I think she was a little surprised at how big it is but the storage at the back is phenomenal. Everything stacks nice and neat and only the bikes, freezer and teenie lawnmower need to go round the front.
I have my sources as well. Apparently your MO is not to build your own board but to have plenty of friends who do :lol:
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Dude. I have my own board. It's just in someone else's house a little over two minutes from my house. I reckon I've got this situation sorted. None of this compares to living 6 minutes from Caley
Not quite. I did pester her sufficientlyto marry me (over about 2 years) to prompt the words "Do what you want, I don't give a shit"
Fixed that! :tease:
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I wish I put in screw on t-nuts on my board, I went through hell with t-nuts popping out because I am a shit carpenter.
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my board is at the setting stage (the stage which never ends)
here we see two feeble wannabees preparing to fail on my warm-ups
they're pretty keen, but I don't think either of them will ever do anything of note on real rock
(http://img661.imageshack.us/img661/7716/WqGyAV.jpg)
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Lagers you madman, it looks like Dave's got a woman after all :)
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Re: screw on Ts Vs pronged Ts.
I eventually opted against advise and went for the pronged variety. Placed over 200 which took a couple of hours and, I suspect, nearly earned me an ASBO from the neighbours. Method was to absolutely weld them in using gratuitous hammering.
All the holds are up now and so far none have spun, none are loose. If the thread is not quite straight through the drill hole it can be tweaked easily by screwing a bolt in a few turns and pulling it straight - this doesn't seem to loosen it.
If any do go awry though the back of the board is accessible to get a small nut in behind one of the prongs.
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I have only ever used pronged T nuts and never had any problems..
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Pronged seem fine as long as you're not changing holds often. The more you take holds on and off, the looser they become.
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Lagers that pic is amazing and I can't help being envious of that session.
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I've got about four and a half thousand pronged T's on my "board". In two years I've had to replace two (bloody setters using impact drivers to tighten bolts (now banned in favour of an 18v driver with a clutch and hand crank for the last tighten)).
All delicately placed, to virtually flush, with a lump hammer, operated by a deranged Gorilla on Acid...
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https://vimeo.com/68522072 (https://vimeo.com/68522072)
This is one sick woodie construction!
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Has anyone built a larger board (of the 16 by 20ft range)?
I am looking at building a board in stages, in a building where mice are more of an issue than space.
Also, has anyone come up with a better solution than old mattresses and bouldering mats?
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One commercial bouldering wall I know of uses mattress overlaid with foam then covered with plastic type tarp.
It's a bit bouncy.
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I cant help with the mice control but wold suggest you ask your local walls if they are about to change any of their matting, when they do the old stuff usually goes in the skip and thats how I got my sections of foam, quite a lot. I then put old carpet on top to cover it. Garage wall.
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Also, has anyone come up with a better solution than old mattresses and bouldering mats?
I've got a stack of old underfelt I'm going to use.
Whatever you use, mice are going to be after it. Maybe a moustrap or a cat might help?
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https://instagram.com/p/5CxlEBraYP/ the state of my project after two afternoons
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Similar design to my garden wall.
I would recommend 'A framing' the sides. That seems to take all flex out of the structure.
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https://instagram.com/p/5CxlEBraYP/ the state of my project after two afternoons
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looks pretty big. can't see very much tying the front and back legs together though!!! maybe it's just the photo not making it clear. don't get squashed.
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They will be tied in the not too distant future
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They will be tied in the not too distant future
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make it your priority, that thing'll be quite heavy by now.
have had a near miss with a ply bouldering wall collapse in the past (due to some ignorant chump using drywall screws to hold the thing together) and i would have been badly injured and trapped.
looks like a lovely big training wall though :punk:
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Last night after that photo, I added the other two bits of ply.
Tonight I added the other two back legs, braced the mid legs at the bottom to the wall, and framed the 45 section ready for adding ply at the end of the month.
Tomorrow night I need to size up the kick board and screw the kicker into the frame (on the side facing in, away from the camera). Then I can tie the two sides of the A together. This will leave adding the final ply and the holds (when they arrive). Then I will find a solution for the top jugs, finger board + pulley setup, and uplighting. In the distant future I will probably sand and finish the boards properly, and find a way to incorporate a heater and fan.
The board that you can see from this picture is the 35, and I am adding an adjacent 45. Both 12ft by 8ft. Were meant to be 30 and 40, but height was not on my side.
https://instagram.com/p/5F7YqjLaRH/
All proper wood screws from the timber merchant!
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The bottom of the two parts and the kick board for the 45, are now all in place.
All I need now are more holds (waiting for some to arrive from crusher), and 3 sheets of ply.
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So I have got the last panels of my setup CNCd and home.
Has anyone got a suggestion as to a good finish to use, or should I just stick with au-natural?
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au natural!
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Anyone got any thoughts on 25/30 degree for a board 12ft by 14 ft ?? I have limited space and this is the max angle I can achieve I intend to cover it in small holds. Sector 3 at broughton was about this angle and was good training. I tend to climb on slightly overhanging limestone with small holds!
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I think it'd be a good angle if you used some shocking holds on it, good size as well
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I think it'd be a good angle if you used some shocking holds on it, good size as well
Yep thats the plan!
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shocking holds
Connect them to a capacitor?
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So, we already had a 45* board, but I wanted something different. Something progressive and symmetrical, for a more regimented/repetitive routine.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/a785dadcb6310822078e73bd7c7afd9b.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/20793bd54010e48e603cc04bf6110753.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/af8bd68f764ea5579f5bd4c3253df5ae.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/ee95bcdcf8f37eace7e41cfdceeb6082.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/e29d142f54ebcde13fac9b633e705f88.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/c2a15b548b7f1c2e7ed173ea55864b87.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160427/69ea8ab6196e50a3ba81c6ecee7c1a80.jpg)
The counter weights (on a 2:1) let the rig be moved with almost no effort. The only draw back at the mo, is you need to be quite tall to lift the locking bar when t's in the 20* position.
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Matt,
Nice work on the angle changing. Very nice how it supports itself.
How high is that ceiling?
Looking at something similar for at home, but will be high restricted.
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https://vimeo.com/164423240 (https://vimeo.com/164423240)
https://vimeo.com/164424053 (https://vimeo.com/164424053)
Loads of Crusher holds and homemade blobs.
Delightfully hard.
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Matt,
Nice work on the angle changing. Very nice how it supports itself.
How high is that ceiling?
Looking at something similar for at home, but will be high restricted.
It's 2.6 mtrs there. But those hinges are 300mm off the deck (so the top of the 2.44 mtr board just touches the ceiling before slipping into the 20* notch.
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Nice board! Is it fairly solid?
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Nice board! Is it fairly solid?
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Very. The notched bar tops any flexing or rattling and means it's just as resistant to pushing as it is to pulling (unlike chains).
Those are 6mm wrought steel gate hinges (as in Farm, not Garden).
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Looks good that Matt, :strongbench:
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Nicely done.
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So for practical, time and money reasons - we're abandoning the garage wall (temporarily) and instead going for an outdoor wall.
The wall it's going against (not into) is 3m wide... in terms of panel width:
2x 1.2m panels (45 & 30) and 1x 0.6m vertical (for guests and bubba)
or 3x 1m panels?
(or 2x 1.5m panels - skipping the vertical...?)
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No vert - I think 10 deg is least angle from which you will benefit, but punters can use.
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Cool - but is 60cm a pointless width?
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No vert - I think 10 deg is least angle from which you will benefit, but punters can use.
+1
Unless it's a mirror with scratches...
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So for practical, time and money reasons - we're abandoning the garage wall (temporarily) and instead going for an outdoor wall.
The wall it's going against (not into) is 3m wide... in terms of panel width:
2x 1.2m panels (45 & 30) and 1x 0.6m vertical (for guests and bubba)
or 3x 1m panels?
(or 2x 1.5m panels - skipping the vertical...?)
I think you don't really want to go for thinner than 2.4m (you could probably get away with 1.2 but its going to be very limiting) or shorter that 3.6m if you want to string more that 4 different moves together.
I would sack off the vert and either choose a 30 or 45 and do it properly, by having a 2.4*3.6m set-up.
My 45 is easier to climb on than my 35 due to hold choice, and retrospectively I would probably have benefited as much by building a double-wide wall of a single angle as opposed to two 2.4*3.6m walls at the different angles. If you were desperate, you could also build a campus board on the side of the board in this case.
Going for a few really thin boards at different angles is going to be detrimental, as simplicity is often the best thing to aim for.
Particularly when you are going to have to cover and weather proof the thing (and cost is a factor), and then make it in a way that you will actually want to use it.
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I agree with SEDur and would go with one panel of at least 2m wide and maybe a campus board at the side if you really want it. Mine is 2.2m wide and I wouldn't want it much narrower, you lose space for diagonal/sideways moves.
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Ah ok - thanks for the feedback.
Part of me is wondering whether to try and persuade the Mrs that a 60cm overlap past the wall wouldn't look that bad (i.e. a 2.4m + 1.2m against the 3m wall), but I suspect it will...
We've got scope to go higher, but don't want it to dominate the garden.
The shallow angle would also be for our littlun' to play on, but perhaps a separate traverse wall somewhere else would be better for her (she's currently 1... ;) )
I was approaching the "narrower, but more angles" style of board in that you could set more interesting problems. I appreciate a standard 40/45 degree wall is best for training, but in terms of motivation I wonder whether we'll use the original design more.
We're far-from-top-level climbers, and the main reason for building the wall is with the bambino we don't get to go to the wall anymore, so it's to keep us in form more than actually become crushing machines (though allowing for this possibility...)
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Also - just to check; Matt is that adjustable board 1.2 or 2.4m wide (or somewhere in between?)
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Also - just to check; Matt is that adjustable board 1.2 or 2.4m wide (or somewhere in between?)
That one is 1.2, the 45* behind it is 2.4x3.6.
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Just about finished mine, still needs a couple of holds to go on. Loosely based on chris j's earlier in this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3260.msg458441.html#msg458441) and highrepute's. Loads of good info on here :thumbsup:
Sorry for the confusing mix of imperial and metric...
It's a full sheet of 2.4m ply wide, with screw in Tnuts, which aren't too much hassle, spaced 8inches apart
The frame is 3.6m length joists of 45x90mm (whatever 2x4 is in new money), with each end cut at 45degrees
and various left over bits as horizontal supports. I didn't have connecter things so offset the horizontal supports
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7420/27245346345_188011ffdd_z.jpg)
The kickboard is two 2.4m joists with another one cut up between, so it 3x45mm high ie about 15cm
The main frame was just screwed to it, and then I rested the whole thing against the wall to screw on the main upright supports which are 45x150mm (2x6 ish)
This bit was the trickiest bit, was helpful to have a couple of mates to help here
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7642/26638481684_c483712f6b_z.jpg)
Then re-inforced the attachment to the kicker (photo taken before the big screw went in through the lot), and attached the bits along the base
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7435/27245348765_5706b9cfe6_z.jpg)
With all the ply and most of the holds on
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7294/26639821503_ee6093b375_z.jpg)
It feels pretty solid. I think all in, wood, Tnuts and screws were just over £200.
I've never done much DIY before so things I learnt (that may be obvious to most people)-
Connecter things for attaching bits of wood together are probably worth buying so you can get your horizontal joists in a straight line, especially along the top where the top vertical bit is. I didn't and the ply flexs slightly. It would save the bodge I did connecting the main frame to the kicker too, though this did work quite well
Electric mitre saw is very useful
Theres only room for 1 row of footholds on the kickboard, but I quite like this
Glad I used thicker main upright supports
Everything is screwed together with big fat wood screws (had to drill small pilot holes first), and seems fine
45degrees is pretty steep :strongbench:
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Mark it looks like your end supports are both vertical, with the top not attached to the ceiling? If this is the case I'd put a small diagonal brace off the vertical going up at 45 to join the end joists. When ure climbing the board will want to pull down at 45, the diagonals will take most of the associated stresses out
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Yeh it's freestanding, and I see what you mean. I've got a few bits of wood left so will add these when I get a chance
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From just looking at the pictures, I would say it looks like it flex s a lot in the middle and would benefit from another joist and a brace across the top of the vertical uprights which all the joists fix to
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+1 for the extra braces.
Looks like a goody!
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Quick question as I now have a date booked in with a mate who is actually competent with saws, and wifely approval - so the garden woodie is actually going ahead!
When people talk about angles; 35/40/45 - is that measuring from vert or horizontal? I only ask as I was assuming from this was the angle from horizon, but a lot of posts suggest a wall at 40/35 over 45 as it's less steep so you can use worse holds, which suggests you're measuring from vertical, which is counter intuitive to me...
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:facepalm:
So 0-degrees is vertical in climbing terms, not horizontal, this makes more sense.
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yep, a 10 deg board might not have much space to move in that case.
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You'd definitely need a kickboard...
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Have you considered an outdoor Moonboard durbs?
There are few people with them. Myself included.
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I'm midway through major alteration of my indoor boards at the moment. I will get some pics up when finished. Did not like the original angles on one side so I've redesigned it to include raised bike storage in the void behind.
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Have you considered an outdoor Moonboard durbs?
There are few people with them. Myself included.
Funny you should mention that. Having (finally) properly measured the space, a moonboard will fit perfectly, with space for a 10 degree on the side too so this is the plan!
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Also, photos would be appreciated.
Specifically, I'm looking at taking the standard Moonboard build from their published design, but then modifying so it's free-standing. So at the least, it's two substantial vertical supports (sunk into concrete?), with a cross-brace on each side.
And then a roof to keep it all dry.
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The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.
I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.
*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.
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What did you do in terms of weatherproofing?
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The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.
I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.
*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.
What size did they recommend ? I used a 13 mm bit for M10 T Nuts
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The moonboard PDF gives the wrong size of hole for the t nuts. I drilled out 6 sheets of ply using the drill bit size that moon recommended, then had to re-drill every single one of them again. Trust me, you don't want to have to do that.
I spoke to the boys at Core soon after when I was buying more t-nuts from them and they were in agreement - the moon PDF hole size is too small. Literally hours were spent re-drilling those damn holes. It's much easier to get it right first time.
*cant remember what I went with in the end, might have been 2mm bigger than moon said though.
What size did they recommend ? I used a 13 mm bit for M10 T Nuts
10mm
http://www.moonclimbing.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/MoonBoard.pdf
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Wood, drill bits, screws, frame fixings and allen key all ordered :D
Sunday is build-day - just doing the vert wall first as only have a single day available this side of Christmas so doing for the easier build.
Psyched :punk:
Timelapse coming soon
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Having moved to the burbs we no longer have a campus board, but have built this instead.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161205/701d0134834768fc88b11e03e6c4ef5f.jpg)
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Having moved to the burbs we no longer have a campus board, but have built this instead.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161205/701d0134834768fc88b11e03e6c4ef5f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161205/c53f79a56e1dc00e0ee8acdd799a98ae.jpg)
I attached the wrong photo :D better view above
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Nat took her time off between new jobs to empty our spare room (as the in laws have bought a nearby house we need one less guest bedroom) and as her new job is likely to be a bit busier it's time to build a board.
The room itself is on the 1st floor of a Victorian terrace with two structural walls (one between myself and the neighbour the other the rear of the house [large window]). The room beneath it has a lathe and plaster ceiling. The other walls are made out of none-structural cheese. I was thinking that it'd be possible to cantilever a board off the wall between the houses with end supports resembling that of a freestanding board. Do people think that sounds reasonable? The board can be around 3.5m x 3.5m and will be between 25 and 30 deg. The ceiling is also made of cheese.
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My baby's 4 weeks old.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/210m71t.jpg)
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Nice one reverend.
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looks a bit vertical to me. And the right wall only has one low hold?
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Are you left handed Doylo? Just wondering, pet hypothesis type thing.
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Good for traversing and chimney practise I guess
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Good for traversing and chimney practise I guess
I assume you don't mean my board, it's 12 feet from the kickboard to the the top [emoji14]
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Very nice Doylo. Who made all the wood holds, and where did you get the yellow resin set?
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Are you left handed Doylo? Just wondering, pet hypothesis type thing.
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Nope. Very nice Doylo. Who made all the wood holds, and where did you get the yellow resin set?
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I got the wood holds from Alex Fry (LX holds). He's got a website, google him. They're sweet but pretty nails at that angle. I've had the yellow Moon holds saved up for years. Some guy who did Action directe and Hubble gave them me.
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I got the wood holds from Alex Fry (LX holds). He's got a website, google him. They're sweet but pretty nails at that angle. I've had the yellow Moon holds saved up for years. Some guy who did Action directe and Hubble gave them me.
So, not Shark then...[emoji12]
What was your setting rationale then? Mimicking problems/moves on projects? Always curious why people set the way they do and what they hope to achieve etc.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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I started out setting about 6 problems (without trying them) then I just filled in the blanks. Most my problems are feet follow hands so I consider that, what you're going to be using for your feet later on. Some problems I just use screw ins for feet. Not really set any replicas yet. It's too steep for the stuff I'm keen on outside anyway. I don't think you need to analyse where you put the holds too much, just needs to be filled with varied, good holds and you'll always have hundreds of combinations.
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I prefer to set a board symmetrically and fill it up completely, even filling up gaps between T nuts with screw ons. I guess this is only because I see it as training (in it's purest sense) and I should be repeating every move in both directions.
I get lots of complaints and an equal number of back pats for this.
In the best traditions of un-scientific, anecdotal, half thought out evidence based thinking; I reckon the majority of setters set everything as rising traverses to the right (where it's not a straight up problem).
I think it's unconscious and a right-handed preference thing (if it exists), but working with the youth squad on the board, I am convinced that the same move, opposite handed, can be much harder for most people.
But, I'd love to hear counter arguments.
My ideal, would be two boards; one the inverse of the other. No room unfortunately.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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For me to be really motivated to train it needs to be fun so I've always just bouldered on the boards. Lapping problems, trying single moves and stuff a bit beyond you. Fun moves etc... Those system , symmetrical boards bore the Shit out of me. If I had one in my garage instead of what I've got I wouldn't be half as motivated to go in. Boards where the only feet are miniscule footholds piss me off too despite knowing they're good for your tension.
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I can't really claim your way doesn't work, can I... [emoji3]
I think that's why I'd like to have two boards, I idly dream of having a "going left" or "going right" day, in much the same way body builders have "leg" days etc...
Would say symmetrical isn't so bad as long as it's only in the one plane.
I have a smaller board, a single 2.44x1.22 which is very symmetrical and repetitive, but I see that as a ramped up foot on Campusing deal.
Basically using it to warm up for Campusing, myself.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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The ultimate is the school 50 board where a good classic tick is at least as satisfying as one outside and you can even put them on your scorecard. :P
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I can't really claim your way doesn't work, can I... [emoji3]
I dunno maybe you could. I'm good at power endurance but usually pretty damn crap on short hard boulder problems.
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The ultimate is the school 50 board where a good classic tick is at least as satisfying as one outside and you can even put them on your scorecard. :P
Amen.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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For me to be really motivated to train it needs to be fun so I've always just bouldered on the boards. Lapping problems, trying single moves and stuff a bit beyond you. Fun moves etc... Those system , symmetrical boards bore the Shit out of me. If I had one in my garage instead of what I've got I wouldn't be half as motivated to go in. Boards where the only feet are miniscule footholds piss me off too despite knowing they're good for your tension.
I'm the same if not worse. I just completely underestimated how long a reset would take, I wish I hadn't taken all the screw ons off.
I'm still trying to decide how best to use my old campus rungs. They'd be holdable on the roof as undercuts, but I don't know if I'd be able to use them on the steep board at all.
Any one on here use them at steeper angles ( greater than 55 degrees) at all?
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What depth rungs? We have 24mm rung off-cuts on our 45* (what I'd call medium rungs) and they are very positive crimps.
However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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Thanks matt
I've got medium and small Metolius, so I think you've just sold me on what to do with the mediums.
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Is an 8" off-set grid still considered the norm for home boards?
i.e. a 4" x 4" grid drawn on board with alternating holes drilled...
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Mine's 6x6, all drilled. No idea if that's normal.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.
Minging in what way Matt?
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Hard to hold at 40*!
Which means I love them and use them every day.
Well, try to.
The board is variable and can be set @ 20*, 30* or 40*.
I have a plan to convert the 45* to mainly wooden holds (if I ever make enough money, always the biggest drag to my plans).
I was concerned they would have too short a life span at a wall, but 12 months of use and their still fine.
Even our homemade (often soft wood) holds used on the main wall, soldier on after 4 years.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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Ha! Probes, I just connected the dots!
There's nothing wrong with the holds!
Campus rungs are much less in cut, though; so I was thinking about it from that point of view. My choice of words was poor. Don't be offended! Love Crusher.
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Is an 8" off-set grid still considered the norm for home boards?
i.e. a 4" x 4" grid drawn on board with alternating holes drilled...
I did mine as a straight 8" grid and regret it, in hindsight i would have preferred a straight 4" grid. I have enough t nuts to rectify it, but rather dimly started the grid 4" out from the edge so will strike the spring timbers.
In saying that i still need to put a bunch more screw ons on the wall
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:bounce:
GOT WOOD :D
:bounce:
Sunday Build-day
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:bounce:
GOT WOOD :D
:bounce:
Sunday Build-day
Nice. Secretly, I think building it is more fun than using it... shhh!
However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.
Minging in what way Matt?
Here you go. I prefer foot on campusing on this to repeaters on the finger board. Not a direct equivalent, just less tedious.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161209/ddb14a0f192f5354b1d8cc3a01663f8d.jpg)
And, holding the pinches @40* is way harder than the crimps. Which is good.
(Set at 30* in the photo).
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And the main board.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161209/e68a3c454fb6e57263cf72c7be533b95.jpg)
Mix of wood, Core, Moon, Beacon and Uncle Tom Cobbly n' all.
More big stuff than I would put on my own board but we have to cater to all...
I'd like to fill up the space with screw ons and replace most of the holds with wood.
Thoughts on wood?
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Woods good but if making them yourself, is your time worth it?
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Woods good but if making them yourself, is your time worth it?
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No.
We make some, when we want something specific, quick. These are mainly softwood though and not good for small holds or for lifespan.
I have a good, well equipped, workshop and make hardwood holds, but that's much harder (sorry, bad pun). Buying hardwood is a pricey business and so I don't and just recycle old furniture, doors etc. You couldn't do it at home, unless you are seriously dedicated. Much better to buy ready made.
As I said, the Crushers are coming up on a year of use and still feel like new. We have two BM 2000's and (I don't know why) one feels greasy and old, all the time and one that always feels new.
The dark crimps on the small board are mahogany, about 4mm deeper than the Crushers. They don't feel as nice. Not sure if the Crushers are Ash or Oak or what, but the grain is more open; so feel less greasy.
I can't see any wooden holds lasting long if feet are used on them. Would it be daft to just change the holds on the top half of the board? Stick with mostly resin in the lower half?
Anyone had a heavy traffic wooden hold board?
Is it the Works that has the BM board? How's that going?
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Thoughts on wood?
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much easier to tweak the shape to your needs
but doesn't clean up as well in the dish washer.
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End of day 1, optimistically thought this would be a one-day build...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BN6XMGvgYxm/?hl=en
Built the frame pretty quickly, but turns out my house is made of the strongest bricks known to man, so drilling in the 100x10mm frame fixing holds was crazy slow, only got four done and the bit was blunt and Screwfix closed...
Also drilled and nutted three panels, need to measure and cut the top panel into a trapezoid of some sorts.
Need an SDS drill and bits, which I think I can borrow, might just do a hole every night.
Going to treat the frame wood tonight. It's already treated, but going for longevity.
The overhang wall which is phase 2 is going to be considerably easier I think!
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End of day 1, optimistically thought this would be a one-day build...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BN6XMGvgYxm/?hl=en
Built the frame pretty quickly, but turns out my house is made of the strongest bricks known to man, so drilling in the 100x10mm frame fixing holds was crazy slow, only got four done and the bit was blunt and Screwfix closed...
Also drilled and nutted three panels, need to measure and cut the top panel into a trapezoid of some sorts.
Need an SDS drill and bits, which I think I can borrow, might just do a hole every night.
Going to treat the frame wood tonight. It's already treated, but going for longevity.
The overhang wall which is phase 2 is going to be considerably easier I think!
Looks good.
Slip some dpc between the timbers and the brick while you still can.
Definitely borrow an sds drill, it'll take no time compared to a battery gun and has the benefit of not wrecking your battery gun.
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A sheet, or strips behind the timber? Re-read and researched...
Yeah, we had a corded hammer drill, but still was crazy slow
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Um... might be a bit late, but why didn't you stack the sheets and drill them at the same time?
Oh, and hitting the framework behind with a t-nut hole; just pick up an 8.5mm drill bit.
Once the board is erected, check for blocked placements and you can drill through the t-nut, into the frame. Just an inch or so, to allow the bolt in.
It doesn't damage the t-nut or significantly weaken the framing.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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We did :D The fourth panel is a trapezoid and the struts will be in different places, so hadn't worked out the grid (or shape) at the time.
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Yep. I can't read.
I blame Xmas shopping.
For everything, including the current shit state of the entire world.
All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...
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End of day 1, optimistically thought this would be a one-day build...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BN6XMGvgYxm/?hl=en
Built the frame pretty quickly, but turns out my house is made of the strongest bricks known to man, so drilling in the 100x10mm frame fixing holds was crazy slow, only got four done and the bit was blunt and Screwfix closed...
Also drilled and nutted three panels, need to measure and cut the top panel into a trapezoid of some sorts.
Need an SDS drill and bits, which I think I can borrow, might just do a hole every night.
Going to treat the frame wood tonight. It's already treated, but going for longevity.
The overhang wall which is phase 2 is going to be considerably easier I think!
Looks good.
Slip some dpc between the timbers and the brick while you still can.
Definitely borrow an sds drill, it'll take no time compared to a battery gun and has the benefit of not wrecking your battery gun.
This
It'll take you all week with a hammer drill corded or not
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Yeah, on the hunt for one I can borrow, if not I'll have to hire one in.
Why the DPC? Do bricks sweat that much?
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Ha! Probes, I just connected the dots!
There's nothing wrong with the holds!
Campus rungs are much less in cut, though; so I was thinking about it from that point of view. My choice of words was poor. Don't be offended! Love Crusher.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:2thumbsup: nice one Matt, just checking all's good.
Those style of crimps were tested on a 45 and were tough going, what was aimed for, just linking a few short moves on them took a bit of working. They're ash btw, which in my experience is one of the best for board holds. Consistent grain that gives a bit of friction and feel, they don't polish up to quick, and are fairly resistant to temps/humidity change.
It could be worth trying beech if you're after a holds that can take a lot of foot traffic, the depot had a set off me a few years back, a mix of both ash and beech. The beech fared better in the long run.. they saw a lot of traffic. They did all get a jet washing which wont have helped but needs be if you want clean holds. Beech tends to polish up though and become super slick even after a good brushing.
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Yeah, on the hunt for one I can borrow, if not I'll have to hire one in.
Why the DPC? Do bricks sweat that much?
Other way round, you're bridging across the dpc in your house with the timber, so it's to protect your building a bit rather than for the sake of your board.
I have dpc under my board for the opposite reason. My garage isn't 100% weather tight and i don't want the board getting saturated when it floods.
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So, people are still bothering to T-nut home boards rather than going screw-on only (or 'dirty-euro' and stacking three screws in a bolt hole)?
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Both
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So, people are still bothering to T-nut home boards rather than going screw-on only (or 'dirty-euro' and stacking three screws in a bolt hole)?
I move holds round a ton depending on what i'm doing. I think having some holds which can easily be moved is pretty useful. Eg. in ensuring progressive overload in ancap, you can just change a hold or two per session for, say, a four week block, making it harder every time. If you are going to be doing the bulk of your training on one board, then its really important to be able to change it up lots, otherwise you will be like you were at the school - mainly really good at climbing on that board.
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Does anyone in Sheffield happen to have some spare T-nuts? Collect today or tomorrow? Neither Core or Williams fasteners seem to be open. In middle of build. Ta.
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otherwise you will be like you were at the school - mainly really good at climbing on that board.
A thing that should be #1 priority for every climber.
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Screwfix Tom?
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Oh yeah - good suggestion. Realised he main thing is that we drill the holes today. So not so desperate...
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Shaw's ironmongers - just along the road from Screwfix - they might have some in
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The steep board on the left is missing holds... :clown:
(https://i.imgur.com/3is7cJ3.jpg) (https://imgur.com/a/aA4nM)
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The steep board on the left is missing holds... :clown:
(https://i.imgur.com/3is7cJ3.jpg) (https://imgur.com/a/aA4nM)
I think I could fall off the steep board, trip over the mat and fall through the window. 7a+ for that I reckon.
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breaks my heart that people have the space and opportunity to build a board, and then they build a monstrosity like that.
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I'm glad I'm not alone in thinking that.
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All that wasted potential :'(
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I doubt either of you will be kept awake at night by your broken hearts.
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You're absolutely right.
Despite the overwhelming sense of disgust, repulsion and anger that such an abomination generates in me, I sleep the sleep of the righteous, under the severely overhanging and protective wings of my board.
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Wall #1 done!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BPqZEF5gfEv/?taken-by=paul_on_cajon&hl=en
Will put some route up tonight :)
40-degree board will begin in March I think
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That looks incredibly professional. Had to double-take to be sure it was on the side of a house and not a new wall.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Ha! Many thanks :D
I was very guided by a good friend who's far more adept at this kind of thing than me - he adjusted my original plan and made it much stronger and fills the entire space. He also built the blue volume which I'm mega impressed with!
The white volumes were purchased.
I can take credit for the painting and design of that...
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This has just popped up as a Google sponsored as. Absolutely hilarious. Some idiots have made some horrificly sharp tendon poppers and ACTUALLY CALLED THEM "Super Tweeks".
Does exactly what it says on the tin.
http://tinyurl.com/hvvlwro
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Look like they are made by Entre Prise, what do they know.
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Those are actually really good and not at all tweaky.
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Hi there to DIY woodie-building lovers!
I need change from fingerboarding and have a spare room that could accommodate a narrow woodie. I have minimal woodworking skills and free time so would be very interested in quotes for manufacturing and assembling a sturdy, free-standing board - say 4ft wide, 40 deg, offset grid of T nuts (if you can sell some holds to go on it too, I'm all ears). If you fancy the job please let me know - live in Ilkley.
Luke
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I've just commissioned one from Crusher. I'm saving a bit of cash and his sanity by doing the t nuts myself.
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Interesting - I wonder if Master Crush is in the market to make another, though I would want him to do the T-nuts - I have a highly noise sensitive neighbour who would probably kill me if i spent several nights drilling and hammering (the reason the board has too be so small is to fit in the bedroom at the opposite side of the house from him - rather than my more spacious attic).
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http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27752.msg541835.html#msg541835
They have 6 left
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You can, and I intend to, get screw in T nuts. I think it's a better solution if the back of the board won't be easily accessible.
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:agree: Screw in t nuts. Its a real pisser crawling in to replace the hammer ins.
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Interesting - I wonder if Master Crush is in the market to make another, though I would want him to do the T-nuts - I have a highly noise sensitive neighbour who would probably kill me if i spent several nights drilling and hammering (the reason the board has too be so small is to fit in the bedroom at the opposite side of the house from him - rather than my more spacious attic).
I've replied to your fb message Moose, I'll price in the commission for Paul B to do your T-nuts, is that ok Paul?
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Hi Paul - I've messaged you back...... unfortunately for your sanity/ fortunately for your bank balance, I am happy to pay for you to do absolutely as much as you are willing!
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;)
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On the subject of T-nuts, I'm planning an outdoor woodie. It'll be approx 45 degrees and the rear will be covered with roofing sheet or felt to weather-proof it to some degree. Is rust going to be an issue with the standard BZP T-nuts - I'd have thought it would be but was wondering what other people's experiences have been with outdoor woodie?. Should I be getting galvanised or stainless T-nuts, and does anyone know a good source for these? I'd prefer screw-in, but haven't found screw-in stainless M10 T nuts in my searching.
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I think the t nuts on my outdoor moon board might be bzp ones.
I remember looking into bi-metal corrosion at the time as I have stainless steel bolts, don't think there was an issue... Providing the are not directly getting wet you should be ok. Mine have been in for 3 winters now and are fine. The only time they get any moisture is when its foggy.
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Thanks, it would mean I could spend more on holds if I don't need to spring for stainless T-nuts and get also get screw in rather than pronged.
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The Crusher (built off-site) board was delivered on Sunday and is quite frankly awesome.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQIluCsgduR/?taken-by=brokenbennett
After fitting out the board with T-nuts on Monday I have to say the screw-in versions are awesome. Peewee and I did the whole thing in ~ 1 hour. Unfortunately I've misplaced my 8mm allen key so it currently doesn't have any other holds.
The holds also deserve a clean before they're put back up for a while.
Does anyone know where you can buy the Stonesmith trainingstone range currently? SS seem to have gone quiet (no answer to emails).
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Still getting into our new board, which is relatively narrow but 58 degrees and about 3m 'long' (bear in mind that I'm a giant). It couldn't have been this long/high if we'd put it across the garage. Easy to build as put a beam across the garage and effectively 'hung' it off that.
This is a definite classic problem (dropped the last move).
https://vimeo.com/203106876
Hoping to get some more wooden holds.
L-hand vert wall is for kids/warming up (a bit of an issue on the 58 deg board).
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Finally, a sensible angle!
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Does anyone know where you can buy the Stonesmith trainingstone range currently? SS seem to have gone quiet (no answer to emails).
Appears they're moving premises so aren't producing atm, I'll ask Paul T next time I see him what the timescale is and if he knows anywhere else that has them in stock.
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One side of my indoor wall i rejigged to allow me to put the bikes behind - https://www.instagram.com/p/BQaIV2SF40H/?taken-by=bouldsta
Other side https://www.instagram.com/p/BQaIQCLFWcA/?taken-by=bouldsta
For some reason bloody instapants cropped them. Wall with Bike store is 32° and 3.4 long. I had to go for 1830mm Board width due to the room size but it isn't too bad.
The jugs are for me and the pissy edges and small holds are for my kids.
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Woodie: Redux - added some LXGrips holds (positive with a nice texture), a couple of Silly Goat tufas, and some Bleaustone finger jugs to the Crusher core (plus some slopey resin footholds). Job. Done. Noe time to start devising some proper projects, rather than just titting about.
(https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16649473_10206366438320049_4298856834815607533_n.jpg?oh=655dde60dd2f9099bdc16c6b45ef5260&oe=5934E22F)
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Pretty much finished - just need to fill in some gaps with leftover holds.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BR0-Z7nB_rm/?taken-by=paul_on_cajon&hl=en
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned data-instgrm-version="7" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:658px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:8px;"> <div style=" background:#F8F8F8; line-height:0; margin-top:40px; padding:50.0% 0; text-align:center; width:100%;"> <div style=" background:url(data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAACwAAAAsCAMAAAApWqozAAAABGdBTUEAALGPC/xhBQAAAAFzUkdCAK7OHOkAAAAMUExURczMzPf399fX1+bm5mzY9AMAAADiSURBVDjLvZXbEsMgCES5/P8/t9FuRVCRmU73JWlzosgSIIZURCjo/ad+EQJJB4Hv8BFt+IDpQoCx1wjOSBFhh2XssxEIYn3ulI/6MNReE07UIWJEv8UEOWDS88LY97kqyTliJKKtuYBbruAyVh5wOHiXmpi5we58Ek028czwyuQdLKPG1Bkb4NnM+VeAnfHqn1k4+GPT6uGQcvu2h2OVuIf/gWUFyy8OWEpdyZSa3aVCqpVoVvzZZ2VTnn2wU8qzVjDDetO90GSy9mVLqtgYSy231MxrY6I2gGqjrTY0L8fxCxfCBbhWrsYYAAAAAElFTkSuQmCC); display:block; height:44px; margin:0 auto -44px; position:relative; top:-22px; width:44px;"></div></div> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BR0-Z7nB_rm/" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank">Pretty much done! A few holds left to fill the gaps, but all coloured problems set. Done a few, some might be impossible... #homeclimbingwall #homewall #bouldering @homeclimbinggyms volumes from @holdz_climbing</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">A post shared by Paul (@paul_on_cajon) on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2017-03-19T17:15:45+00:00">Mar 19, 2017 at 10:15am PDT</time></p></div></blockquote>
<script async defer src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>
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Been meaning to post for a while, finished my board last October... Low garage means I've had to go super steep, and there's probably another 50 holds on it now.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL0wggGh3Cb/?hl=en
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Been meaning to post for a while, finished my board last October... Low garage means I've had to go super steep, and there's probably another 50 holds on it now.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL0wggGh3Cb/?hl=en
That looks like an Old Skool Sheffield cellar type build!
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That is a thing of beauty
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that looks oddly familiar.....
https://vimeo.com/162961207 (https://vimeo.com/162961207)
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http://imgur.com/exL3xUo
My garage training setup in its current state. Electronically adjustable board (winch) which can be anything from fully folded away to 45 degrees. Free standing fingerboard setup with 18mm campus rung.(Looking for some medium jugs for warming up on if anyones selling a couple)
Small gym with weight belt, dip bars and trx etc.
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To you clever people with more knowledge than I...
I'm planning outdoor wall number 2 - basically a freestanding Moonboard like:
http://www.moonboard.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/20160829_072307-e1475078369911.jpg
I'm slightly loathe to concrete in the posts, mostly as it makes it a pain to remove
Would something like these suffice for mounting into the ground?
http://groundanchor.com/shop/earth-anchors-2/screw-anchors/screw-in-4x4-post-anchor-complete-kit-2/
or even:
http://www.spyrabase.co.uk/product_info.php?ID=9799
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
You could build some kind of roof over top using corrugated plastic. Maybe tarp for the sides when not in use. A roof would also provide some shade in summer. Something like this https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=corrugated+plastic+roof&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjtiszHt4PUAhXkDcAKHX3qAUIQ_AUICygC&biw=1265&bih=614#imgrc=IZkyMIoP3f5FWM:
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
I'm considering some Onduline corrugated bituminous sheet for covering my outdoor board: https://onduline.co.uk/products/onduline/ (https://onduline.co.uk/products/onduline/)
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Yeah, from my research it comes down to two options; corrugated plastic or roofing felt.
Plastic - cheaper, can be taken off easily if needed (e.g. lost a t-nut), but can cause a bit of a mini-greenhouse which might make your wood expand/contract quite a bit over time. Requires extra framework to mount to.
I'm going for something a lot like this, but with an extra bit coming down the front:
http://www.moonboard.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/20160829_072307-e1475078369911.jpg
Felt - Doesn't look as nice, semi-permanent, quite pricey. Requires extra boarding to fasten against.
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Not sure where to post this, but I just downloaded a clinometer app and discovered that the Beastmaker on my home made free standing support rig is a mere 0.1 degrees off dead vertical. Which is probably well within the margin of error of the app. Clearly this is not random luck and my woodworking skills are better than I suspected.
Some of my bookshelves turn out to be horizontal too 8)
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Used that app to measure my board recently, I'm sure when I built it was 50 degrees but its creeped to 47/48 degrees, luckily resetting soon so an opportune moment to rectify this issue.
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I would exercise caution about using apps to measure board angles, if the schoolroom debacle is anything to go by.
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Not exactly a home board, but...
Running a Bouldering gym can be pretty damn dull, especially on a sunny day.
So, I pulled apart some old volumes and added a bit of C16 and a shite load of screws and extended the wall out from the existing cave. It's 20* to the little roof and then a vertical head wall. I built it as a crack training feature and carved a Tufa out of a bit of 4x4 C16 too. As I think of it, I'll add more cracks and Tufas etc.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/876a333d841762cd69834510bb8e9170.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/7928ebffa4138f2200047be87bb4886f.jpg)
Three main cracks, a shallow, vert, hand jamb, a 30* inclined hand and 30* fist/arm.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/ba37b414a442cf0633725fd92c4e355f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/453c1195ac2c29e613fd3a3681e1d037.jpg)
Tufa-ish roof crack-y thing, type dubery w'osit.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170526/3b9dac4efd443b837c8cdf8f35e62356.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
My biggest advice is to consider the wind loads on the moonboard, you are erecting a massive sail!
Durbs, i would seriously consider some sort of anchoring. My Garden moonboard has withstood 78 mph so far and its got a 5 point anchor system.
I have felt on mine, but then again its dramatically over engineered.
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
My biggest advice is to consider the wind loads on the moonboard, you are erecting a massive sail!
Durbs, i would seriously consider some sort of anchoring. My Garden moonboard has withstood 78 mph so far and its got a 5 point anchor system.
I have felt on mine, but then again its dramatically over engineered.
Was looking at screw-in anchors, rather than concreting in, but yeah had considered the lift-off scenario... It'll be tucked into a relatively sheltered bit of the garden, between a fence and a shed (and the other wall) - but potentially could get a head-on wind.
Securing the plastic roofing could be more important than the wall itself.
Annoyingly now have to fix a leaking roof on the house which takes priority over the climbing roof in terms of cash.
Bum.
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Advice sought on outdoors boards... Durbs et al?
My girlfriend's building an outdoors moonboard in the back garden of her place. I'm wondering about weatherproofing - bearing in mind it's in Belfast, not the driest climate. What do people recommend?
My biggest advice is to consider the wind loads on the moonboard, you are erecting a massive sail!
Durbs, i would seriously consider some sort of anchoring. My Garden moonboard has withstood 78 mph so far and its got a 5 point anchor system.
I have felt on mine, but then again its dramatically over engineered.
It'll be in a fairly sheltered spot in lee of a large tree but yeah, good info. She's digging holes and concreteing in. Foundations getting dug next week!
Loads of good info on this thread.
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Building commences tonight, well, digging the pits. Just thought I'd share out plans for those interested. Will probably attempt to document full process. In meantime any comments/advice more than welcome as it's an ambitious first board to build. Moon holds were on order with estimated delivery at 6 weeks, now arriving next week, 4 weeks ahead of schedule...so that's lit a fire under shovel. Let's hope tonights digging doesn't turn into bouldering and the grounds good!
Dropping posts tomorrow hopefully. uprights at 3.5 metres above ground, main concern is probably if 500mm is enough to drop posts into c25 ratio concrete (1xcement,1xgravel,2xsand). wondering if that sounds strong enough or overkill?!
Moonboard plan top down (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/35139057605/in/dateposted-public/)
Moonbaord plan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/35076679006/in/dateposted-public/)
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500mm sounds quite shallow for a post that is 3.5mtr out the ground! As a landscaper I've always worked to putting a third of what's out the ground in the ground? I'll go down to 600mm for a post that is 1.8m out the ground generally...
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500mm sounds quite shallow for a post that is 3.5mtr out the ground! As a landscaper I've always worked to putting a third of what's out the ground in the ground? I'll go down to 600mm for a post that is 1.8m out the ground generally...
Thanks Neilslim, wondering if that's with you setting into very strong concrete and not just cement?
Also wondering if that's just standalone upright (as in a fence - which I imagine would need to be deeper than front post of a supported triangle?).
Effectively all the weight isn't on the front post upright, as diagonal post and back upright post are sharing the load?! Built fences before and yeah, with obvious full load on one upright went pretty deep. Kinda majorly reluctant to dig 1metre deep x 10 holes for the moonboard, feels like overkill (sincerely hoping people agree so digging doesn't become full foundation style excavation project!).
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Building commences tonight, well, digging the pits. Just thought I'd share out plans for those interested. Will probably attempt to document full process. In meantime any comments/advice more than welcome as it's an ambitious first board to build. Moon holds were on order with estimated delivery at 6 weeks, now arriving next week, 4 weeks ahead of schedule...so that's lit a fire under shovel. Let's hope tonights digging doesn't turn into bouldering and the grounds good!
Dropping posts tomorrow hopefully. uprights at 3.5 metres above ground, main concern is probably if 500mm is enough to drop posts into c25 ratio concrete (1xcement,1xgravel,2xsand). wondering if that sounds strong enough or overkill?!
Moonboard plan top down (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/35139057605/in/dateposted-public/)
Moonbaord plan (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/35076679006/in/dateposted-public/)
What posts are you concreting into the ground? Steels?
Not done the calculations but off top of my head 500 mm sounds pretty shallow - I'd be looking at double that for 3.6 m. Sounds overkill for a light weight timber structure but you'd be surprised with the wind loading. Remember you are effectively building a big plywood sail!
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Remember you are effectively building a big plywood sail!
This.
Consider the fact that hoarding around construction sites are subject to temporary works designs for this very reason.
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What posts are you concreting into the ground? Steels?
Not done the calculations but off top of my head 500 mm sounds pretty shallow - I'd be looking at double that for 3.6 m. Sounds overkill for a light weight timber structure but you'd be surprised with the wind loading. Remember you are effectively building a big plywood sail!
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
[/quote]
Thanks , yeah Timber 4x4s for 2xfront posts, 2x4s for 4xback posts.
Wood order won't allow for 1metre depth as bought and paid for (and too short to give 1metre)... but thinking attached post supports/anchors could buy me another 500mm for front posts.
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[/quote]
Thanks , yeah Timber 4x4s for 2xfront posts, 2x4s for 4xback posts.
Wood order won't allow for 1metre depth as bought and paid for (and too short to give 1metre)... but thinking attached post supports/anchors could buy me another 500mm for front posts.
[/quote]
No worries, that sounds a good solution. Just remember to get exterior grade wood for posts and consider coating the concreted section with something.
(Apologies if you've already thought of this)
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Just came across this on Instagram, now that's a Woodie:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/d22411a3d33cd9fea1dd4f4b6c00bcde.jpg)
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Hi Cac03,
Looking at your side view plan you might want to consider putting a horizontal timber in at least midway up.
I don't think you have any torsional resistance apart from the kickboard that is fixed into the ground.
If you pm me your email I can send you some images of how I've built mine?
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Thanks! Kind of figured that out, so attached horizonatal struts between the diagonal uprights and also top horizontal bar, had some plywood left over and also attached this at the back.
Concrete has to go in, but other than that, she seems pretty stable!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4209/35504907676_88bc1aa8ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W6rW5C)20170625_211431 (https://flic.kr/p/W6rW5C) by cac03 mac (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/), on Flickr
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4280/35543846145_cf2ba99eff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W9Tv8x)Moffatt Board (https://flic.kr/p/W9Tv8x) by cac03 mac (https://www.flickr.com/photos/151389487@N03/), on Flickr
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Wicked board - pretty much what I was going for with mine.
One question though - why is the logo not central?!
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I had to freehand the lettering, fecked up a few letters, had to redo the sizing, so re-drew the circle rather than redo the lettering....figured it'll be trashed in a few weeks anyway with scuff marks....but had intended not to centre it perfectly anyway, to give space for Numbers up the left side...so wasn't aiming for centre (but wasn't aiming for so far right either.)
Kids a major Moffatt fan, but the logo ain't gonna help her climb 8c's!
Could've spent more time doing it perfectly, but would rather have the time climbing it! There's always compromises.
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Do any of the external board builders have recommendations for paint? I'm looking at Coo-var sure grip - any experiences out there? If so, what primer did you use with it? And how many coats did you need?
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Do any of the external board builders have recommendations for paint? I'm looking at Coo-var sure grip - any experiences out there? If so, what primer did you use with it? And how many coats did you need?[/I went a tad OTT on the primer possibly, with 4 coats of cuprinol, but I had rough sawn , not treated. I then did three coats of outdoor satin on the boards themselves, not grip paint. I did contemplate it, but decided against it. Figure it's a small board and I could do with focusing on good intentional foot placements, grippy paint would let me away with sins. I will obviously live to regret this decision.
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Thanks, I've used treated wood for the frame and treated the sawn edges with Ensele, so that should be good. I've a tin of exterior primer I'm planning to put a couple of coats of on the boards and then a couple of coats of whatever I decide on as the top coat.
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Reading this with interest... on a climbing tower I built years ago for an outdoor centre we used ready mixed resin and squegeed a layer on both sides and ends of the ply... its lasted for over ten years now. With all the painting you've planned it could possibly be cheaper and a lot quicker to do this?!
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Thanks, I've used treated wood for the frame and treated the sawn edges with Ensele, so that should be good. I've a tin of exterior primer I'm planning to put a couple of coats of on the boards and then a couple of coats of whatever I decide on as the top coat.
Should prob also mention the back and front of the board have monarflex sheeting as well to weatherproof....possibly plastic corrugate at a later stage.
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Reading this with interest... on a climbing tower I built years ago for an outdoor centre we used ready mixed resin and squegeed a layer on both sides and ends of the ply... its lasted for over ten years now. With all the painting you've planned it could possibly be cheaper and a lot quicker to do this?!
Interesting. What sort of resin are you talking about? I'm open to ideas if they'll save time/money. Thanks.
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I also came across decking varnish/paint which has grippy-stuff built into it, possibly good for vert/slabs but less so overhangs?
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Thanks for all the input. Think I'll sack-off the grippy paint idea then as my walls is at 45 degrees (bar the kick board). Leaning towards some Zinsser All Coat Exterior so I can paint it in an afternoon (1 hour re-coat time).
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Dont use texture paint. They have at the local wall i use and as well as not adding anything to the use of the board it trashes your skin. Every time you grab a hold your effectively sandpapering the top of your fingers.
I have not got an outside wall but do have a miniramp. I first made it with marine ply and no matter what it was seal with it rotted so i used Phenol faced ply and have had no issues for 6 years. As someone above stated you really need to concentrate on the edges of the panels. For every coat you put on the flat put 3 on the edges. Personally i would mastic all the joints to stop any water getting in them, i do this most years on the ramp and if you dont the edges start to delaminate. The ramp is obviously worse as its a flat surface so water sits on it.
I am thinking of building a campus board outside and will use phenol faced ply for it but with the treated face on the back. No need to use any water proofing then. The treated timber supports will last a long time.
One more thing make sure your noggins on the back of the board have a gap at the back so water cant sit in it if they are not covered.
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Thanks. The back is all covered so will be OK in that regard. Thanks for the heads-up on the edges of the panels - good call on mastic for the joints.
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How do people feel about having the timber uprights behind them when they are climbing? Any chance of knocking into them?
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Following on from Bencil's comment above, I think it's time I considered building a woodie in the garden, I can't carry on spending £9 a go at the wall and the wall down the road has closed down, seems a good time to build one. I'd rather not have to dig up the garden at the moment as we're probably going get the whole garden re-arranged and done out next summer so a free standing board would be ideal for now.
To echo Bensils question, do the beams get in the way?
How much would it cost for all the wood roughly including something to keep the rain off the back?
Also, if anyone knows any one who has or where I can find cheap holds that would be great.
Cheers
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Mines free standing and has beams and post on the floor. I don't find them a problem but I don't put holds right up to the edge of the board.
I think my board cost about £300 for the wood.
If i where building one outside I'd want it in a nice purpose built shed that would make it a nice (as possible given situation) place to train on dark cold winter evenings.
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Mines free standing and has beams and post on the floor. I don't find them a problem but I don't put holds right up to the edge of the board.
I think my board cost about £300 for the wood.
If i where building one outside I'd want it in a nice purpose built shed that would make it a nice (as possible given situation) place to train on dark cold winter evenings.
Cheers, how do you find using it in the winter, a bit too grim? What do you use to light it up, floodlights?
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I use a rechargeable site light to illuminate mine. This is the first year I've had my board in the garden so I'll see how it goes over winter. I have used it in the rain a few times already though as it's steep enough (45 degrees) to stay dry.
I find the 'uprights' supporting the board (mine are at 15 degrees) only interfere if you have problems that finish towards either edge.
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I find the 'uprights' supporting the board (mine are at 15 degrees) only interfere if you have problems that finish towards either edge.
I have a narrow free-standing board (indoors though). I find that the uprights can interfere but only on certain types of problem - those where you latch a hold at the edge of the board, and then let go from a hold at the opposite side - and then barn-door into an upright. Annoying but not a massive limitation - worth putting up with if it's the only / far the easier option for construction.
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Mines free standing and has beams and post on the floor. I don't find them a problem but I don't put holds right up to the edge of the board.
I think my board cost about £300 for the wood.
If i where building one outside I'd want it in a nice purpose built shed that would make it a nice (as possible given situation) place to train on dark cold winter evenings.
Cheers, how do you find using it in the winter, a bit too grim? What do you use to light it up, floodlights?
Ah sorry I wasn't clear. Mine is in the house - it's lovely in winter :thumbsup:
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Cheers guys!
I use a rechargeable site light to illuminate mine. This is the first year I've had my board in the garden so I'll see how it goes over winter. I have used it in the rain a few times already though as it's steep enough (45 degrees) to stay dry.
I find the 'uprights' supporting the board (mine are at 15 degrees) only interfere if you have problems that finish towards either edge.
Does yours have any sort of lip overhanging the top to keep it dry? Do the top holds stay dry too?
Anyone got any tips for outdoor matting or do you just stick a pad under there whenever needed?
Cheers
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Astroturf
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Hi Luke as you know we've got a full size moonboard built in my partner's back garden in Belfast. Can give you info/tips etc next time we meet up.
Can also give you a breakdown of costs for the board and the weatherproofing (not insignificant).
Pads sit on pallets to keep from damp ground. We spotted that a uni climbing wall was chucking out their old matting and scooped it up for free - basically old-school big blue gym mats.
Uprights aren't an issue.. I did wonder but they seem fine.
Weatherproofing is quite a task. Lots of coats of wood treatment to start with. Then we put corrugated pvc sheets all over the back, overhanging each side by a few inches. Then we attached 'monarflex' sheeting attached at the top lip coming down and out, pegged into the garden like a tent to protect the front and allow you to boulder in the rain. Various other options such as building a gazebo frame etc etc. Haven't actually finished this bit yet.. keep getting distracted by real bouldering/climbing..
I haven't used the board much since build as there's usually something new outdoors to do whenever I go over and I'm only over for a few days at a time.
Screwfix site lights at £25 a pop..
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I've a slight overhanging lip of the bituminous sheet I used to roof it - the capping sheets that I put at the top of the wall overhang by couple of cm. The top holds stay dry if the rain's not slanting.
For matting I've laid some playground rubber grass matting (i.e. rubber mats that allow grass to grow through) under the wall and seeded the soil underneath (which was bare) with drought resistant grass seed for shaded areas. I chuck a couple of pads under it as well when I'm using it.
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I know it’s not exactly a woody, but...
A few shots of my completed cave and crack complex. Ready for my winter training program:
Cracks!
https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/W0539a (https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/W0539a)
Looking up:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/2h6umE (https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/2h6umE)
From the side, good depth on the cave.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/311ub5 (https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/311ub5)
https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/ze9i90 (https://www.flickr.com/gp/oldmanmatt/ze9i90)
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Just moved to a new house with a good sized garage for a board. But it has a metal roof/internal ceiling and has been dripping with condensation since we moved in. Anybody experienced this and have any ideas for solutions?
There are air bricks to allow some air movement and I can easily put some backing on a board so any drips stay away from the wood, but it's not ideal. Then there are fan/heating options as well....
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Insulate the roof.
Everything else is treating the symptom, not the problem.
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Thanks Matt, a proper job it is then.
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So.
New year, new volumes.
Sort of an annual tradition now (5th year! WoooHoo!).
I hated the idea of paying a small fortune for plywood volumes, so we started building our own from the start.
We were not so successful initially.
This winter, I built an extra workshop into the wall above the cave, so that I could work and run the place and stay warm (the workshop upstairs was unheated). And in the process, decided to build a custom cutting table for volume production...
(https://image.ibb.co/i29nxG/58_CEF913_83_A3_4382_994_F_2_D2_EC8_C91_ED6.jpg)
Started with two spacer blocks and arms, set to give a slight clearance above the 18mm ply I use for volumes.
(https://image.ibb.co/nvCpZ6/18927_B71_59_F2_4_B76_98_E6_F8_D73_FA591_EE.jpg)
Using the washers to give that clearance...
Because I needed the cutting guide to be removable, I put the ply square to hook it under, and fix it with an 80x5 screw when in use.
(https://image.ibb.co/dyWBPw/7_C19_E648_C7_A0_48_B9_931_D_857_B5_C574_C0_E.jpg)
The guide itself is made of 25mm aluminium angle and standard drywall framing C16 (~£2 for 2.4mtr in B&Q). The spacers set for our circ saw base.
(https://image.ibb.co/mn2qHG/478_B3318_D300_40_C7_B2_D5_A3256816_D669.jpg)
That was before fixing those ply squares.
I adapted our saw with a laser sight some time back, using a cheapy Chinese laser level, araldite, 25mm alu angle and some M4 machine screws. Gives and excellent guide and allows each cut to be lined up efore clamping when using the table.
(https://image.ibb.co/g7U9Bb/7143_B8_BB_DA26_4_F3_B_A8_BB_ED6_E9_CB7_C58_A.jpg)
I drilled and tnutted the long baton of the guide, so I could use bolts to clamp the panels prior to cutting.
(https://image.ibb.co/fFpggm/23253470_D4_B6_4_A7_C_962_E_D9669426_ACB1.jpg)
And adapted the saw, so I could use it as a plunge saw...
(https://image.ibb.co/fXrjcG/E5650_CAA_D860_4_DD5_B7_DD_5727_AFC62803.jpg)
Again the M4’s with some butterfly nuts and a tap set.
Over the years, we have discovered that fixing ply volumes direct to the wall, leads to delamination. Pulling the volume hard up against the surface is not a good idea. So, now, we make inserts from that framing C16 cut and shaped to fit inside. These are screwed to the wall and then the volume fixed to the insert, with the screws perpendicular to the face of the volume.
(https://image.ibb.co/kKkF7R/778_BA62_F_8_DDF_4_A1_A_AB12_5_C64_D34_E6_F1_B.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/jKV9Z6/4_C914165_2_FDF_4_A7_A_B31_B_035_BD6361_F0_A.jpg)
I can’t really tell you how to calculate all the bevels and mitres for the shapes, it varies from volume to volume.
Best technique is to cut the face panels with square edges, dry assemble with duct tape, measure all the angles and slopes and sketch it out.
You need one of these:
(https://image.ibb.co/cHyfrm/EDF36492_63_C5_45_ED_A3_CE_C15_CBEC0_CC2_B.jpg)
And my workshop is covered in these, stapled all over:
(https://image.ibb.co/cHyfrm/EDF36492_63_C5_45_ED_A3_CE_C15_CBEC0_CC2_B.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/j2W0rm/D9_B5_EE77_F181_43_F3_B91_F_801346065_ABD.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/nO3wWm/1_BA8438_C_2_F9_F_424_C_BE95_B4312_FF6_F27_F.jpg)
I say better to do the dry assembly, because trying to calc it out, it’s too easy to be a couple of degrees out and then nothing fits...
Trust me, I’m an Engineer. Of course I tried to calc everything and royally fucked my first dodecahedron volume...
Texture is just fine building sand mixed with Vinyl Emulsion. Trial and error, but ~3:1 paint to sand. Takes 4 days to fully harden. Don’t use it early, it just flakes off. Surface keyed with 40grit, edges rasped and all crners well rounded.
I glue all the joints. These days I use “No more nails” type glue instead of PVA, as it’s better gap filling properties compensate for a certain lack of skill...
Joints are all screwed while the glue is wet (3.5x40mm screws) and chocked and screwed too.
Some finished lumps:
(https://image.ibb.co/bT7HMm/A4_C86099_77_DD_4_F7_E_948_D_0052_AE659_B33.jpg)
And some filled and waiting to dry prior to sanding and coating:
(https://image.ibb.co/byiDu6/67_F62_F5_F_1_BD8_4798_98_F1_CDE53267871_A.jpg)
Those are mainly recycled from older knackered volumes, and there are two solid wood pinch volumes there too.
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Nice. Interesting stuff Matt
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Amazing pots Matt, wadded. Beautiful mods to your saw.
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What is best layout for drilling t nuts on a 20-30 deg board? Diamond or square? And optimal spacing? assuming number of t nuts available is not an issue
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I would go for square 20cm apart.
I have diamond on mine and it is annoying. If you are 20cm then you can add campus rungs and what not, as they (the moon ones at least)are 20cm betweent the bolt holes
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I much prefer diamond
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Some useful tips I have picked up from have made several boards!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmSMRDT8OMM&t=37s
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Help! I've got a dilemma, wonder what the wise minds of ukb think :-\
I'm halfway through getting an outhouse rebuilt to fit a board (no garage unfortunately). Footprint is 7' by 11.5' with a roof slanting down on long side, limitations on roof as it's a shared structure with neighbours.
I can have:
board A:
33*, 9' long, 8' wide and with clearance to place holds on sides as layaways.
board B:
40*, 11 ' long but only 7' wide touching walls either side (a bit narrow basically).
The key issue is clearance. The 33* will have just under 2' clearance to the wall behind, the 40* will have over 5' of space behind it. 40* would be like a smaller version of Dan's video above.
Which one do I go for- it'll affect how the outhouse gets built?
Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
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40* and extend it with a horizontal roof.
Smacking your head off the wall behind you is counterproductive to training progress...
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Basically 22" of clearance is too little? I was wondering about that...
Thanks
Jon
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It's tricky to visualise how it will look, and I don't know your aims, but my tuppenceworth is that the narrower 40deg, 7' wide option could be wide enough. My own 40deg woody is even narrower, less than 5', but it's sufficiently plastered in holds that the width does not feel limiting (I can convince myself it's a boon, as it forces me to contrive more awkward moves). And, as the 40 deg option gives an effectively longer board, you can do a greater number (and harder) full length moves, more than compensating for a marginal loss of width. So, I suspect 40degs is the way to go - as you grow more beastly, you are unlikely to regret it.
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That's 2 for the 40* then, thanks.
Other views welcome
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I've had 40* board with around 3 foot clearance to the wall behind and it was fine. It's surprising how little you swing out backwards, although I did always prop a pad against the wall. I would say that 2 foot will limit but not excessively.
Having said that, I'd defo go for the 40* 7' wide option.
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40 degree. I don't think 7' is that narrow. My board is narrower than that and whilst it's definitely an advantage to have one side of it open it feels wide enough overall.
Old vid here, I've now got volumes and more holds on it:
https://vimeo.com/203106876
Unless you have loads of room you'll end up with something that you basically adapt to and make the most of the space. My board is 60 degrees and with the size of holds on it, too steep (with the floor too close) to make up big, burly problems. It's very fingery and tensiony. Beats just deadhanging at home that's for sure.
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I would go steep and long.
I have a small (short but wide ) 30 degree board in my shed and it has been fine but I will be rebuilding it to be steeper (more importantly longer) as soon as the weather warms up a bit.
good luck
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Thanks for all the replies and posting the video Tom. Sounds like 40* is the best option.
I feel pretty guilty because the building is eating into an already small expanse of garden and the 40* option means creating a ridge in the roof which will make it even less visually attractive. It can always be demolished in the future I guess.
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I feel pretty guilty because the building is eating into an already small expanse of garden and the 40* option means creating a ridge in the roof which will make it even less visually attractive. It can always be demolished in the future I guess.
That's the wrong attitude. The way I see the garden it significantly eating into what could be a world class training facility.
Good luck with the build.
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Visual shmisual.
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I feel pretty guilty because the building is eating into an already small expanse of garden and the 40* option means creating a ridge in the roof which will make it even less visually attractive. It can always be demolished in the future I guess.
That's the wrong attitude. The way I see the garden it significantly eating into what could be a world class training facility.
Good luck with the build.
Good point! Just need to find some world class climbers to use it...
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Hey all,
Third kid on the way towards the end of the year so trips outdoors or to my local wall will be somewhat harder to manage for a while. Thinking of building a woodie in what's left of my garage (other half was converted into a room by the previous owner) so I can at least do some climbing. Dimensions of the space are:
(https://i.imgur.com/ORlYdLl.png)
Initially I thought a 40 degree board would work best, but it works out 2.2m wide, which I'm not sure is wide enough? It'd look something like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/IO63aNQ.png)
The other option is to have it the other way around, but I given the dimensions of the room, it feels like you'd probably have to keep the garage door open when using it as there wouldn't be a lot of clearance from the top of the board to the wall and the door behind?:
(https://i.imgur.com/FQKXqUL.png)
I'm leaning towards the first option just because it'd mean I could still climb on it during the crappy weather (i.e. with the garage door shut), but does 2.2m sound too narrow to be any use?
Also; I've included a 20cm kicker at the bottom, but given the lack of height available I'm not sure if I'd be better off just having the wall go all the way to the floor instead?
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Congrats on the latest addition...
Option 1 would be best imho.
Mine's 2.4m wide with no extra room to the sides and I think most of my holds are least 30cm from the edge of the board. So I think 2.2m would be fine.
regarding the kickboard - originally I didn't have a kickboard and the 40degree board went all the way to the floor. The problem with this is you can't use the bottom bit so it is kind of taking up space with no use. I now have a 10cm (might be 15cm can't remember) kickboard, the smallest I thought I could get away with - i like this because you can start problems with or without the kickboard as desired. Not having the dead space at the bottom of the board means the board shifts slightly towards the back wall - giving slightly more space behind you when climbing (this isn't loads but is noticeable).
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Congrats on the latest addition...
Thanks!
regarding the kickboard - originally I didn't have a kickboard and the 40degree board went all the way to the floor. The problem with this is you can't use the bottom bit so it is kind of taking up space with no use. I now have a 10cm (might be 15cm can't remember) kickboard, the smallest I thought I could get away with - i like this because you can start problems with or without the kickboard as desired. Not having the dead space at the bottom of the board means the board shifts slightly towards the back wall - giving slightly more space behind you when climbing (this isn't loads but is noticeable).
Ah I didn't really think about the fact the very bottom would be kind of impossible to use anyway :-\
I think I'll probably go with option one with a small kick board. Thanks for the help!
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Yo. I currently have a board in our house. But it's taking up a bedroom that we now need to use so the board is going to have to move. My current plan is build a shed at the end of garden and stick it in there. I can think of lots of reasons why this might be not as good as having it in the house. The board might have to get a bit shorter/steeper to not be too high. I wondered about a gas heater for very cold nights. Getting power out there for some lights? just trail a wire whenever have a session or just use battery powered stuff? How do i make it so I still want to use in on those cold wet winter evenings? is condensation a problem?
Picture of the board is here. (https://photos.app.goo.gl/kZpPQqNyhHHLhnk98)
Anyone got any knowledge/advice they'd like to share? ta in advance...
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My board is in our large wooden shed. There's no heating, no power, no insulation and the roof drips after prolonged rain. But I love it.
I use two battery powered lamps for night sessions, same as for outdoor lamp sessions. For some reason it's rare that conditions are condensed and shit, perhaps because it's a breezy wooden shed and not insulated at all. I've never felt the need for heating, despite many sessions in sub-zero Highland nights. The first few pulls are a bit chilly but I soon warm up. I take my laptop out for the psyche tunes.
Basically, its all a bit Spartan, but its the best i can muster and it seems to work. Go for it!
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For lighting, these are amazing. I got the £30 one, it’s incredibly bright.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/portable-lighting/cat8340010 (https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/portable-lighting/cat8340010)
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Dolly's shed is a piece of art - no heater, but it does have a disco ball
I can't think of any reason to have a heater for training for UK bouldering
warm up in down jacket, pull hard in fleece, pose for unnecessary gurning in beanie and no top.
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For lighting, these are amazing. I got the £30 one, it’s incredibly bright.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/portable-lighting/cat8340010 (https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrical-lighting/portable-lighting/cat8340010)
I use the Diall 30W site lamp for exploring boarded-up burned-out buildings - it's a good'un - cheap and the light lasts for a good 5 hours.
Dolly's shed is a piece of art - no heater, but it does have a disco ball
I can't think of any reason to have a heater for training for UK bouldering
I am quite possibly a bit odd (and have Reynauds and very dry skin): I have a fan-heater and a plant-mister in my wood room to provide a bit of "sticky damp"!
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After a mere three years in 'concept planning', I am planning to build a moonboard in a garage.
I don't have enough headroom so the board will be just shy of 50cm shorter than the standard. I'll need to reduce the distance between rows from 20cm to 17.5cm.
It's obviously going to make a difference to the grading and comparability with other moon boards but I think its a better alternative than losing a couple of rows. Its only 15cm less across a six row move which doesn't seem like a massive difference to me. I am weak anyway so don't imagine I will be running out of things to fall off anytime soon.
Does this seem like a stupid idea to anyone?
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It's a great idea... just don't put and moon holds on it!
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Sounds good but it won't be a Moonboard, changing distances will make the difficulty of the problems totally different to the app ones. If you were after using the app I think you would be better off just losing the top rows and accepting problems finish short.
Why not just create your own board? I have one of similar dimensions, it's great.
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Doesn't seem stupid to me. Given that you can't fit a to-spec moonboard in the space, you could consider making it steeper if you have the horizontal space to do so (going to 45 degrees would take 21cm off the height, 50 would take 45cm off the height) and having a shorter kickboard than the standard moonboard (i.e. only have one row of footholds instead of two).
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Ah - that's food for thought definitely. Thanks
Having access to the app is a big part of the appeal for me. I have enjoyed using them at walls and I like the idea of working up through the grades on it. I appreciate problems are going to be easier but there is plenty of top end for me to work at even if the difference accounts for a couple of letter grades . . . Problem with losing a couple of rows is obviously missing the last move of every problem and loads would then finish a few rows down.
Shorter kickboard is already factored in.
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Well the grades would be different to the originals but you’d still have the bank of problems to go at. Grades would still be a relative measure in relation to each other...I suspect a lot of MB grades are inaccurate anyway. Shorter moves on a steeper board might work well.
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Might be worth checking out this podcast ep -- http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/2017/3/11/episode-31-devils-advocate-the-moon-board-featuring-ben-moon
IIRC, it includes discussion of best options for shrinking a Moonboard when you've not quite got the space, and the pros and cons of different options.
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Thanks for that.
If anyone else is interested the relevant bits for scaling are at 44mins (the Americans) and 1.30ish (Ben Moon). I found most of the rest of it pretty dry . . .
Ben's advice was reduce the kickboard by 50%, scale down each row rather than lose rows and - if strong - push the angle towards 45%. He also suggested that 5% steeper did not massively affect the difficultly of the problems. I am not sure that would be my experience (and I also remember some discussion on here about how correcting the angle of the school room board by a couple of degrees did impact on difficulty).
Anyway, thanks.
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My board was 40 degrees, however when my brother in law rebuilt it at my new house. It ended up at 45 degrees. I have 15 problems that I do to warm up, I have only done the fifteenth one once since the angle changed. There are holds I can no longer use.
Maybe if you climb 9a it isn’t a big deal.
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Likewise, changing the top half of our local board from 40 to 45 made a massive difference to the existing problems, Mr Moon must just be too strong to notice!
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Hey everyone,
I currently have a full-scale 40 degree Moonboard in my garage. It's amazing but I find all the feet really good and I'm either totally solid on them or just jumping to the next hold. The drawbacks of this aren't lost on me and given this I'm really interested in putting up a bunch of wood holds/feet to the wall. My main questions are:
1. Has anyone added to a Moonboard in the past like this and do they have any tips based on their experience?
2. Any suggestions/guides on making home wood holds? I'm specifically interested in wood type, size of holds, and if any special treatment/sanding is needed? Currently I'm climbing 7A/7A+ benchmark problems on the Moonboard app if that's any help.
Thanks!
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I've not got a Moon board but have a 40 degree board which I think is the same angle as moon. Most of my holds are homemade wood. I just use whatever off-cuts I have lying around. I guess mostly that's pine or some similar softwood. I've also used plywood.
Footholds I have two types. The first is just small blocks of wood - i heard it said that Jenga blocks are ideal but I just cut up some wood. Secondly, these Birch split wood balls (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11401.m1842.l5919/7?euid=949fcc71ef6b4c278d618ed1fccb83b1&bu=43126969230&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fvod%3Fitemid%3D282521769298%26transid%3D1789936841018&exe=19027&ext=49217&es=3&nqc=AAQQAAAAAAAAAgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEAAAAAACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAIAAAAEAAAAAAAggACAAABQAAYAAAAAAAAAIEAEAAAAEAICEAICkAEIJAEEYAAABQAQBAgBAAAAAQAAIgBAYAAKBAAAAAAAAAAAAIAAAAAAgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAg*&nqt=AAQQAAAAAAAAAgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEAAAAAACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAIAAAAEAAAAAAAggACAAABQAAYAAAAAAAAAIEBEAAAAEAICEAICkAEIJAEEYAAABQAQBAgBAAAAAQAAIgBAYAAKBAAAAAAAAEAAAIAAAAAAgAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIAAAAAAAAAg*&ec=1&sojTags=es=es,nqc=nqc,nqt=nqt,ec=ec,exe=exe,ext=ext,bu=bu) - hopefully that link works. They are what are on the Motherboard at the works. I find they work really well at 40 degrees, but I have friends who hate them - you have to really work to get any use out them which isn't to everyone's taste.
Making holds I tend to just cut up some wood with a Mitre saw. With the board at 40 degrees i find a right-angled block is a nice hold that is fairly difficult to hold. So the simplest hold you can make is to just cut up some 2" x 1" (or whatever really), sand the edges round and screw it on. I got a cheap orbital sander for sanding. I'll also cut at angles to make the holds better/worse. I like 18mm ply for making crimps, I can just hang a square cut piece, angled at ~15 degrees makes it a nice incut hold. A broom handle or other similar cylindrical piece of wood is quick way to make holds. I drill holds and countersink for screwing them on - otherwise the wood splits.
Here is picture of some of my board (https://photos.app.goo.gl/XHJyvs8Kh68tn1CZ9) to give you an idea. some of those holds are bought. The homemade ones are nothing special but I find them good. If you got a few ££ spare just buy some.
It's not rocket science. Make a hold, screw it on and if you like it make another. If not make a change.
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I have a 40 degree board and have a set of yellow Moon board holds on it (not in a Moon set up) and a mix of wooden Crusher crimps and pinches of varying sizes. Contrary to popular opinion, I've never had a problem with the yellow Moon holds. I don't find them particularly rough and I can use them even when my skin is in a fairly poor state. The only complaint about them is that they can be a bit samey.
I never do feet follow hands, so I have a mix of footholds. The moonboard footholds (designed to go on the Moonboard kicker) are basically foot jugs so are forbidden except during warm ups. I then have a set of these two:
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-micros_1/
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-board_1/
The micros are suitably shit and are good for making things quite hard going. The board footholds are what the Depot have on their 30 board, where they feel quite juggy. They work really nicely on a 40 board.
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Like highrepute says, those wooden half-balls would be a good and quick solution to your foothold problems. I like them. I also have the Geo-screw on 'board' holds Will linked to. They are mostly flat, or only slightly sloping so you can dig into the back of them and they can feel OK in a good pair of shoes. The wooden balls on the other hand are really slick and you have to push your feet into them, rather than dig (which causes your feet to pop), so make for a totally different feel in my opinion. It's nice to have the variety.
I know someone who made some small triangular 'volumes' for his a steep board, to mount wooden holds to. Get some 3 inch wooden fence posts cut all the way down diagonally, to give 2 long triangular posts. Then chop up into whatever sections you want. So when they are mounted on a 45 degree board they have a vertical face to screw shit crimps to, and a flat 'roof' underneath for positive undercuts. Can also be mounted at 90 degrees to that, for better sidepulls/gastons/or pinches. Hopefully that makes sense. I'll try and put some pictures on here later.
The advantage then being, you don't have to make lots of fiddly holds cut at angles to hang on a steep board. Just get some different diameter dowels, and bits of rectangular wood and round off the edges
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Thanks so much everyone for the ideas and links. I think this give me a pretty good idea of how to go about it.
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I do these as an option http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-wood-footholds. I punt for a mixture on my board, with some half balls to. These I find good, very slick, and turn problems very Corey.. sometimes more an exercise in keeping feet on. My crusher ones are pretty positive in comparison.
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Thanks again for all of the suggestions. I ended up getting a set of the geo screw-on board feet and birch split wood balls. Has anyone seen a moonboard with holds added to it and care to share how they went about modifying it?
At this point I'm envisioning screwing on the geo board feet on the same row as the all of the other moonholds. That way I'll be able to do the regular moonboard problems but with way worse feet. There also is quite a bit of empty space if one was to use the space in between rows and columns (if that makes sense). I think though I'd prefer to leave that empty for now. If anyone has any suggestions of how to fill that space in I'm all ears as well. It's be pretty easy to just throw up a bunch of other holds (homemade wood) in those spaces but my fear is that I'll mostly still just stick to the moonboard problems out of sheer convenience... and laziness.
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I finished building my own woodie a couple of weeks ago.
Thought id share a few pics to give ideas to anyone wanting to build something similar. Its 8ft wide x 9ft long / 6.6ft vertical height.
I simply strengthened my existing 5"x2" garage roof beam by bolting another beam either side, spanning the full 3m width, then bolted my 6"x2" rafters to the original beam via angled brackets and big coach screws. The bottom of each rafters are bolted to the floor with concrete screws. I used 4"x2" purlins to tie the rafters together top, mid and bottom, and screwed the 18thk hardwood ply to all the rafters and purlins. Its absolutely solid and doesn't flex or creak at all.
(https://cloo9a.by.files.1drv.com/y4mhO3DoidixiqzdXjYD4vxrMyAXuAGKtCHzM1CSEYDTARV48aj1u1VhwcswiMQ3EQG49skFNgpcdSCV0L20lu49WCMZqi01nNFqYvp5kueiHjZD3YGv_2fQW1nKBx2CoQ_R-EB5Xiryl9I_uSyGoSBqeQv7dSoDnBmgSYtXgljz3knTNegZX8t-enl6FFDHZ8Q_xegZrh7aRxoGb17KmKTiQ?width=800&height=366&cropmode=none)
(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4p6kEzVKbVCAERGV9MtQrSRwBRdHo2BEmNY3UjRmQxaAgT_5ZLw9Ezusg9CN3dwrwuJRP3wMsNd5GkkOJ85kQ2DCLZX-WYm49RayYTHCEdQF8GJmVGdqEvy0QugNpmOBPoWMcmq_ANIs9MczXu7FJnXuesG25UW1lVEHQB0z1UQdOLuyRssalxVwayaHg65bOy/Woodie4.jpg?psid=1&width=800&height=600)
(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4pEm_DK1sL2ImfJbX0qZXvb1vphE0mld5JT-kWM6AQF7sBa66fhq6KpoxwZr0IZgoAZ9RF9wQ9ILViyUJasjUDCmEtTFrohX3k5klD5m88O2Bv7YOlOStAc4NKFh_nKL5kzRUf8eBiBOGwQX6PJ0Lcxtnt4ESOayaK6MLpJbqzNEJioxHfc_M3HRBCKXMbUDBg/Woodie5.jpg?psid=1&width=262&height=196)(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4pLwcAGrMr-fWO5VSISk1qHEIRl0p_UMWINalendqyDoHpcvrp2eA9B-PbCZ6Hc5wMAu2BvjdSwkmbNq0fmWTRiMyIQ8fC_pFFhTdmTI-frBLgSn597g3I9Yb2qi7l0F82oI-FnS3zxc3LlkEAaHWdVfYq7FQaCF8g890WGqGZUNH3LfL68XywBXVQXGgC4SPd/Woodie6.jpg?psid=1&width=800&height=599)(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4piJYh2QCJ4BUtFC3vG_d--YGEHxSE_g6xDCn8cvQC54iQ-2fVuACH91LoiMblgcaccz37eInDFPBZJWw3n1h0vjgORPsW0Zk_3wyM84Ln5-vDPh65vYmOa9uWzOrkRj8LulEOE0AEsMh4St3abZCJX82EnNKe-VqGpVgJ_zwCOY7f1qFQlC0QIpPr3kB4GkXG/Woodie7.jpg?psid=1&width=800&height=600)(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4prouQwqamIsd1RSgzVX53DXhJyf0KiIL_JjWkdjT1K529dwIoRTcuNZsRnWhJ8Us0KIrZbRRmE69zHwSm9ybYBXgzPErVbRu0SdZWk8zjJfNxo7K1XhXqQ5jF6UOmbfF8k3oj8Ozss363nUK5Fvv7C6LlT1ADRZmxI0fNBvhTq5oD7_UCD1l-R8auyMdiZZge/Woodie8.jpg?psid=1&width=800&height=600)(https://by3302files.storage.live.com/y4p2Prv_OIDvtyYSqvXl8cdUOkDOTa8EzvnCAOCqlX19ieiWFGGM7moiefL3tr0q6MePRoBCI9s-R4wAT-8nlObP5-buyCDz0vcDmB72xjb6kwLXxj1CKVYW0G_8WZAN8qC1kVnotLhXY20jxdqfz9hcP8O5RvdSyS61ZzQzTH9hdZ8QmrQcQBX-OtN58r44mHU/Woodie9.jpg?psid=1&width=800&height=600)
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Planning on building a couple of boards in our Summer House (damn right!). One overhanging and variable angle (needs to take up as little space as possible, but also be a meaningful training board), and one vertical next to it. The overhanging board is on the back burner for now, but I was planning on sorting the vert board this week. Only thing is, I've got a bunch of basic questions, which I'm hoping the UKB collective will be able to help me with:
For starters, whenever I see instructions on how to build, or photos of someone building one, I always see the thin side of the 2x4s against the wall, rather than the thick side. Why is this? Is it important?
My vert board is going to be screwed into a wooden side wall, so it would take up less space if I could screw them flat (thick side against the wall), rather than standing proud.
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For starters, whenever I see instructions on how to build, or photos of someone building one, I always see the thin side of the 2x4s against the wall, rather than the thick side. Why is this? Is it important?
It influences the timbers' ability to resist bending (moment of resistance). That's not to say that in some circumstances mounting it the other way isn't acceptable. There's also a 'correct' way to align plywood.
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Having thin side on to the ply means the full "rigidity" of the wider part of the wood is resisting flex, less of an issue on a vertical board, but there will still be fair weight pulling outwards. Not sure if having a bigger air gap at the back would reduce the chance of damp developing and consequently mould, i guess it depends on location. You will also invariably need to access the back a few times just after you've built, to change out duff T nuts that cross thread and spin.
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Ok, so follow up question:
If I do put the thin side against the wall, What's the best way to screw it into the corresponding stud on the other side? There's a wall of overlapping shingle which I want to leave in place (so it still looks nice when we end up selling the house) and 2x4s inside the structure. Do I need 200mm screws to get through the 85mm of framework timber, 50mm of wall structure, and deep into the internal framework?
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There’s shingles on the inside you want to leave in place or just on the outside?
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any chance of a photo/sketch (or alternative)?
Cladding?
Existing stud (??mm)?
Wall structure (50mm)?
Soldier (50w x 100d;)?
Plywood
To avoid SA Chris's issue with T-nuts, buy the screw in version from Core and do a good job of putting them in (or just use screw-ons for everything).
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Just the outside.
(https://media.rightmove.co.uk/dir/154k/153215/51940356/153215_4542355_IMG_13_0000_max_656x437.jpg)
It's going where the piano is in this picture, between the door and the brick wall.
Inside are 2x4s the "correct" way around, but at uneven spacing. I was planning on just screwing 2x4s to the outside of the wall, straight into the internal 2x4s, but there aren't many options for long screws.
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You should be able to get long enough coach screws (Screwfix do 200mm versions). Just provide a recess for the hex headed versions (these are also easy to remove if/when necessary).
Any chance of the construction in order:
Cladding?
Existing stud (??mm)?
Wall structure (50mm)?
Soldier (50w x 100d;)?
Plywood
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(or is your wall going on the outside? :-\ )
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Where's the old joanna going to go?
In my mind, if you plan on building a steeper / adjustable board I'd not bother with a vert one too, unless it's for kids.
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It's going on the outside. Exactly where that piano is. The shingle wall is screwed into the internal 2x4s. I want external 2x4s to screw into them.
Are coach screws not a bit overkill? And they'd leave big holes when it's taken down.
The vert is for warming up, the shorty, and the mega-shorty (3 years old). And the previous owners took the piano with them :wavecry:
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If the shingle is just screwed on, can’t you unscrew it and store it for reuse? Sounds like it would save you a lot of faff. If you wanted to fix additional 2x4 to the internal ones to extend the wall out, there are various nail plates etc that could do that job.
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Are coach screws not a bit overkill? And they'd leave big holes when it's taken down.
I'm a Civil Engineer so quite possibly! When I'm dealing with timber framing like this it's usually as concrete formwork.
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If the shingle is just screwed on, can’t you unscrew it and store it for reuse?
They'e nailed on. Reckon it'd be more of a ballached peeling them all off.
I'm just going to put the 2x4s on flat side against the shingle. That way I can use a 150mm screw (lots of them), and anchor them onto the internal 2x4s. I guess the internal ones are the right way around, plus I don't need to be as accurate when screwing my ply onto a 3.5" side rather than 1.5"?
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For a vert wall you won't get much outward force at all so no need to go mad with the fixings (provided your uprights are sat on the tiles that is). I'd probably use L-angle brackets - easier than trying to get long screws all the way through everything... fasten the brackets in vertical lines through the shingle into existing stud work (assume you can locate studs from the nails through shingle) screws long enough to go through shingle layer and few cm into stud, I like 5mm diameter screws in pine stud work but come in a good bit from the ends of any studs to avoid splitting. 3 - top, middle, bottom, (or maybe only 2 - top and bottom) if top bracket is bomber fixing) brackets per upright. Then just screw your uprights (for a vert wall, either thin side or thick side will be fine) in place through the brackets. Obviously there are lots of ways to do it but in my experience most people (builders included) tend to really over or under-engineer this kind of thing.
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in my experience most people (builders included) tend to really over or under-engineer this kind of thing.
Hopefully I've gone for the over...
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I simply strengthened my existing 5"x2" garage roof beam by bolting another beam either side, spanning the full 3m width, then bolted my 6"x2" rafters to the original beam via angled brackets and big coach screws.
Is the strengthening beam necessary? I've just screwed brackets straight to rafter and will bolt uprights through the brackets.
Intend putting in a couple of timber ties to other rafters further back if needed..
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It was necessary for me because my existing 5" x 2" beams that ran across the 3m width of my garage's flat roof were only strong enough to support the roof and nothing else.
I decided to strengthen the one beam so I didn't have to mess about with columns or ties to other beams; and so I could get on with insulating the roof and fix all wall fixings to the underside of the one beam.
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Ah OK. I've not checked the size of them, but we have a bedroom above the garage, so hopefully they are hefty enough....
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I finished building my own woodie a couple of weeks ago.
Thought id share a few pics to give ideas to anyone wanting to build something similar. Its 8ft wide x 9ft long / 6.6ft vertical height.
I simply strengthened my existing 5"x2" garage roof beam by bolting another beam either side, spanning the full 3m width, then bolted my 6"x2" rafters to the original beam via angled brackets and big coach screws. The bottom of each rafters are bolted to the floor with concrete screws. I used 4"x2" purlins to tie the rafters together top, mid and bottom, and screwed the 18thk hardwood ply to all the rafters and purlins. Its absolutely solid and doesn't flex or creak at all.
(https://cloo9a.by.files.1drv.com/y4mhO3DoidixiqzdXjYD4vxrMyAXuAGKtCHzM1CSEYDTARV48aj1u1VhwcswiMQ3EQG49skFNgpcdSCV0L20lu49WCMZqi01nNFqYvp5kueiHjZD3YGv_2fQW1nKBx2CoQ_R-EB5Xiryl9I_uSyGoSBqeQv7dSoDnBmgSYtXgljz3knTNegZX8t-enl6FFDHZ8Q_xegZrh7aRxoGb17KmKTiQ?width=800&height=366&cropmode=none)
A few photos:
Before:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qU9zSfyF_jR4VpjU_9DU6QOCBbZ_lPoIi3Xw_bqnrn7bmsgSGd11oRbiWLtrdKmwx3fOdhKPjvC3Rjagt7igAUA0b7vAIp-EVpXx-zLVpdrYTWp1XQFkIUZJpwSpNlUcerzE5PGyHxEXunSerVCtFtxG58M84--f-Sh0_DFMX3Na-dpz536x06sjVJXxvg6RLLYkbW_SYMeWxKOho61dGkBQ1n-37vXOT9RMMGmcA9076Ez47HAhUrPiocc9DX9SvJFPrskJKbQDs2QDNg96v73Qu3KyKwov7_SfFdFub76Cae2mJE0cJXW3LevfC2ThqGdzNyCStg3Yqz33gr2LDjkd-un-ST0TKwfK_e7NlcKAr5gcHnW0thQA7eN2Agg77vmxuNn-Ylq9u_asVt2_fVAMEBQ793gqflDpNLdXQ967AU72GDFHti-U2pFN1etv2iRIjYB-TFyGtv7ydpee0XT4Z6vBuQ3J0yEtb2aEfj3K8Ox-wBhg_7HL_k209snVC4_niAtfLjnVQY2_l3q29PQC3jq28Nsm7JC1UnkPmCzNhwstj323OEHHNOhqmpQfBY2RziJCawnPqAZWdiXRoELG2w_S9j9LG_SbB0zIvHb7b9usMltM9nm-qnTx5JI8vZAgdQDzMdCbZvEjfOZj1gvg-beOvUGPRLPDSbbv1AAh5Wv4DrRQBVE=w179-h238-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KPfIft_W6sy8N0fF3Dqf_v8O-4qR8nQ1BY8G8waFBdGikP86yTXNRVm9XbWsmZyZHRZpxu-2C_XxvZdWAcbR5G94lqLobuvTozDaDVmabY7U-L8olZ0E7HR2zOmZXvdS_Jy2Wp1K3q1gsBFg0Xd_HADtBjhOasHK4rPZwrZ2nAz3Ib9YOCf31EQJTjblwfwKSfC1EI628o8owavUJtHUjN_dKEUTPakPKj5RDBohitwbobve27dHe6jgTYGWeRpdtkxLkiCCxDaH9sU0YBhKq2jlWH3hoYoVKYFdroBAnAkbEIr3tfQGZHA0as0VGR2y78ZnCAn_4GaiBk61_aiZvCTeriCfPAIaFLlm6oUUlQT1-IjosFbR16xU3wZLcjUx0a_x2oeo5ulx474bkaUE313-rdA4t1Rwt38PrewdjOPcgjkVxXkJzk_h3B-WRXobyWU5ODjTEbKchgjQ8-cbsTnXJUSEjb3UZ2dgfPDgDAfRrTM7Sjv-eiX6Wt3vdGcqqCy0Bvss8Otq9ZnAsPBSvJn40bdMqQebTOQJqRRs9vj67wsXCqIw4wsIpO0NOwGOSEtCcOT5GJA5vVnn_pCFbYxaau5OoP9RBQXQfcYcfMHYrNXQl7NgbVt1Si6llefIVa3sW4OH5cnI1oh6GBG6lTxSVvXr-vyM2HKkSQjUti5PmLpbq3bmU4c=w550-h412-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u5XtagfBllNKbGgJarf-3M5EUCg-yChvPRpvN54nlGbsGZkbrBuU2-pWxap7B0_nenWo-NFHYPD_4w8kmh88ET8m8Yvy7NJ4RFj0eS93jM3JymO7nGL-uywVNTned7FGEsbKSPGkxCRGdyiHpqTyCcoxxk3F2DxXwn3AHqlOWRNuz2J1gc-vuXGQbznwJy4um8AStilI005PFzplSPB_qCuFPr_SgJ5IKL1JwpCvgKRbjwEQanHAtx-6n7Z8pQMqoZU89OJcZvKNu-g1Fko-OjBA1SuXFAxR4057YEzO4XiRKDZNxjtNclRnoz_sRvajnmOroM0zs_9d7hhrdBhDKT-Bld1lbGBktGKF2m1l4uSXEbVAcvdhPqBcIGePjrcefpF0QFiyiD91R7LWaZojXKfhjrtOjEEIH8zyUM_ulckNuxKmKLd0gP52HzsVbHTnlc9R3JHKiPTJCuR1xlOg4gnNLLsF2L5YzTEUxUElpPfFPaq_wOkyLFntx4GUhTs18cTvKVPf2hMQjcQoL9eGYyosM9L2eQZPVyKbk3uI-aIrCAKY7NpYTPYuI8d8_DPShJByAP8qvhBvmpRzKP5_X4xiN_AqlKlxBdQG6UNocP-Xli5x2flHYA3ZgX3qA_eC62H_qJ-9stc7WC_SztSpwUDSLUuGabtApjlAgx_uM_zgH3d8Omb-9AI=w550-h412-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pRyGBOccItZ862QZ0J9UHSBHkMl2Xn5baABTJun_-qrbtVLYtB5B7QWfLlV7S85_84dRx6nv9hVhyGi0dS8B6qHZu2JVwiZEKD3aOZ5FX0rZtfddmL2OQsvE_8RAJ5aIqHctzHeangcmfz_Koaxl3hNIbAn4ZNR2L1_GNme9dsTJpriv58_b2ghJ9-3OL6Kuhulf6VsUFj_P947A5NloMoN_flBlxBckQ3gbnXVPOLAKvxTzX6E6hB77uvRSaPxSWFXXatlMn-BIRweRH5E0SLk5zA6hWj9LGgg-Si50WkE7wXVGZtKEE9sfuTdzd045L3B-xwT34rxI84ylCK3HPl3M1KUwFJDW7Sjjd7ia7cVM8ZAbUjGjA96JQCfhAyEvSb_Htbzpc97dQEQO65oU2SsR0wtsEQ6K9OGi9IGmeFPlX3gbWGhFrrxKR9R7n46iIwJ5xiMG6XsO9M9AfJRMGVUdLpOnwGAX3PF4BR8-tlfUGnB8qOTOqnrYdoQw_VWW_QhPJUrTJcxfopuzbSZm4kG6amRPPxRb1AgngGKuQrZldH37qZd1_zzWSyExncfv8w_sIdK4ylIASKWCA1uclZs_GLmLmUf-Yg87r5pzIsiZjdY5KFPv9BAL35Uarmu1-IKaCFkD8G-kduem1zwLnVJJFPVQouRZtE6sXtw-PA-azvG-04m-_ys=w550-h412-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c-ymLBiJB_90ydIAfNuw_WWXUH1Hfm0swg44e5Yl9OwrqlOUOtkynCQcZ5uH9D0TBlNgFMM9vv9MG0_dQBCQzbCbGpqm3bkgMG01wDWHdgKUWEJi4vwW2jbq3DegOZQ4zZiGrJFIF3kHV8U0kgrRb9Vv_-uiO_Sdzai7Xnh1hBHxv_kVnsDx-2DO5CvVgJvWlMw88w8NpvWLnnoSriEjyImwLfiKKK_y2I70YzgAaAHwjCMSh4WgJp6GhjdXZIX0iqx9NMLbduv6A7ebgq3Ag9s5GQkOWG92152dNY244OBIDpYM97pjVUwE1ZIdPuJ0IV6kRh8IIiMyEu0JuZLCIu-0gx_8eCCRsUJ7-0GL09OwMBHo_D1g-QruTti9CBriJM3UILDGC6GNtlSsBvIDFBPpL-gLJOIHpNNPHdMZKlCHaoLFUj91RA_YF_pJsuA_so2W_DxWfO3SqRmKzHNlCMJH6YY4sn3QFyzL0MGC_onTHfowpdwn9JtfUXCoKnRvXQ-llv0LomThSqF0hv-aszXlPxZmH_rG1ruJRTg0rrITCf20duOgc156FvTPB8dTtKqxCSiFT87kmAz5g1fw55xPQMDITTmNh8nMvyOiHZEmjGP3WW-NmoFosQYmFPR86zjm2DjtbD94gah8vCeIt_JB54mYk0KxyEuU59UU1ON5EZeCGZJq0JM=w551-h412-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vvK-jYpBIcpf_p5oHmLNAO3UHwAAGp9riRpzIHPWTrKrGeMJ7Z0S9Q48EEKEwqpuHfu7qEM2B9zIKzBxWRtTNRknj6YcGOxJZY3bWv4F6d2YUVqiIuLHAAFNS2TNE8qP0uRmpKSX6vOa5tige6nr-MFgug0NIXXkb9vUCH5H8NAkghB1Hy-ESQMNpAdTL6Kr72UNU0Yqi5mkBqoLn2e-otWWDJYihFoPuYkXkDZ3xiW8m-00mk7_5lVMlDSvI1V7YTbq8UFR3BIilU9Xp0VLopjUe7y4On19Hm6wAbrP5kopi-SVwGs1vM1BPO9m2PTTHwbxqotgcBN4Cf8NnR14A-cnS9c1WJC-zqyQUdjRXHcS4e5yUbAzEhwqtePmQoeQzwcqMcS3AzPmdh_BL9uonL11X93qSk-e2Ie7w6JFBD1viXgEUcpdg_4yJ116t4FUCLs_xavHkOHPRkLe6cKXH2f8dqWMLqns1HpHXTAzUxTuwujdNfYzIcZuoMXL9si60sjU-s3tafy4hUwBzUH_HqH7GuwPewnYQBIbMm9BGUkGIz9qCsXh12GjvW_jg5WOdDTb2OZAAQSGvJWhhT8U9rSsCBLGZOtA9JmSJvB3NXVakiql7Uyrt95MkZTTVXL6k9NcZd0rSMFtm6X3pICiA-i_SF6tze2StIBpJ3o3Wl37cSJ-JfausiI=w550-h412-no)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mBWuZzyW7aHwdAiXPB9Sb2TKIfibKKnX8sAd229Dsvp4rgZfISHcLRCG7cSFu8aj6PrOeXFWK8qsMkb4Uae3ohZ0esLwko_Y35S2lsx0ppEgd5E8YBKdsjvbSKmi-kTU09_QZ-_vqpgfKbvBJnXNfKbvrW7AzHP9M0GeOoPDn_dj9h4sj7rc0LW1P16lm6Pl2mw4uSjWLY-Tnsc0SCpGByZqqI4U9MzLve83PMb-JDZlqPqA-OKkvvzpfbBN7ru3D4Jg63sa-FVKZyu1gvPZ0h6caMWxRcLQV0FA60xDsD4ASSB5eVpu7xOEeJvXFoGGV0cd36H5KdTqg9Q_LVNjAkom_iRKz58ocaJj_XCWWY3Er_17h5MiSzyBlJ5DI7nshidVP5DLUE41bC52MjIjvZVPRm61-v_ye9ytOxju2YmgU88lR4jzfs3oFmSS9SpkQD3oRTubP760-huaCh4mWB-d_jxe9o_BFIalOlJnjsEJX8alle7f0NV7JOgX6uJsLYouq3pzsAQ7wBgCzWMLs8fVy7MhpUT0LlkFqHkv7kHHGC_b8xKaeOUy-ZFUa7wTthLluoIVgnpjYZ_Kl1JiF1JYwGUfSMvCqB0gvsesSUMtzlcqkp8QhUirE7UBhkVD8vHnV2eG0j72ikglXUoSs7isP3NK8odPddrlaHGkLNokgc0lSaTVXxU=w655-h412-no)
After:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d_iKqCfUb7Fvg_et89wWR_Th6-X6J3vifRo32ml00OS8_MC57fiF7zf6wnh9gzPmHcB0_NHNok2pJWuqARTzB4oV7E_04JqPYQj1Z7fQHwOrL6oRggawHUpVGksbWNJgEt2AHRq76rXY1qS-7Rx3GZ_UQLG5NiNTGJmsLhCgIOk6pdA3ySwnjjb4IOXZc8MnNFRCRnVwA0fZIulggobbbgyO4qFG-OoQvPFd_OuQbuOjJetD8Wp4ENUXJLY_Ke9UXb_t7Z6Y-4HCS5Vkqhtpu8rWXvJWa49Kt2XMvDOxwULRsq6ynk1TZ58O6N4yaJQiLfYzYqqsqVhSCWF-a2GHhzxpyrYNNQq6DcKXS4c7owQP5P6ek2RwsnSDGSzbByG-TZplNg9XVkPZyMKPsfZhidm6rUkyyIiVYK2X4UYpM8BGfwtf7OaUhWtjEQmEQz7VtHnD-cegCLhRuwOKNQ6L9lHpCYjTR2iXX3d9T9bezH_jZ0lw91tj7Ig9pfVZlxPJrCn7uiwME1u2EToToqY_Hvc9RJphmwpW35Oa6MAHaZ43-pa9fs28Pci2koHCtHSf7SzIiOp5N1cE62tIc19BDB78GkAC2Pngmro1G87gjxiOTn_SKo98b4rHUnFwTSRIHugQQnTN5wE1tIKgy3OChFp_wg5T_AC-t0Y2OPAFQXC_BrT7U0M2vn4=w534-h712-no)
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Anyone painted the ply on their boards?
Resetting mine this week and looking for the simplest way to remove old hold names etc. written on in marker pen rather than sanding it back.
Recommendations for decent paint?
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I used Zinsser Allcoat Exterior on mine, mainly because you can re-coat in 1 hour which cuts down the time to do the job hugely. Has lasted well on my outdoor board. You can also get it tinted to whatever colour you want (only off-the-shelf colours are white and black). Self-priming so you only need to do two coats of it. My wall had a bit of mould on it after a few winters but it all scrubbed off without damaging the paint.
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One thing to be aware of with painting the board is the gluing effect of the paint. Despite leaving my board for 7 days after painting before mounting holds (supposedly the max. cure time), I've found the holds are pretty much welded to the ply - I can take the bolts out and hang off the holds. I've got a symmetrical setup that I haven't changed much, only swapped out ~5 holds that were too small/nasty for the angle. Had to give the holds a good whack with a mallet to get them off - usually only leaving minor paint damage but one took a bit of the top layer of ply with it. Something to bear in mind if you change holds about. Having some aggregate/texture in the paint supposedly helps with this, or you could use a longer cure time before mounting holds.
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Agree - mine's nearly 2 years old but still whenever I strip it there's holds which are stuck to the paint requiring a stern hit with a rubber mallet to get off, usually taking the paint, and occasionally a thin ply, with it.
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BuK seem to re-paint their wall (white? :wall: :devil-smiley:) for fun and although there's a short period where they keep it empty, I haven't noticed massive patches of paint missing or ply being pulled off. It must be specific to the paint being used?
Is there not some kind of sealer that can be applied? Again, I think the Depot's lightly varnished boards hold up well to abuse. I've climbed on some more heavily varnished specimens and feel like they rob you of chalk every time you snatch a new hold.
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I used 2 coats of wood primer and 2 coats of blue chalkboard paint on mine - has held up well a year in, handy for ticking holds for problems (and seeing how innacurate you are hitting holds with chalky hands or what holds aren't getting usage and could do with tweaking :shrug:)
plus the blue brightens up my garage :)
Can stick up a picture when i'm not on the work PC later if you want a look
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Hi all,
V basic question for corona-enforced woodie building. Would 3 panels of this (link below) do the job for the actual board or should I be looking at something thicker?
https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/18mm-hardwood-external-grade-wbp-plywood-b-bb-2440mm-x-1220mm-8ft-x-4ft
Thanks!
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Definitely not thicker. However, 12mm is also okay if well supported. I have built one of each - they are not noticeably different in use.
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Ace, thanks!
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Considering adding a crack training section to my woody, do you guys think melamine would be too slippy to jam (it would be at approximately 35° overhanging and about 8ft long)?
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YYfY. After watching me watch Dan Turners ‘watch me build a roof section’ YouTube clip last night, MrsTT suggested (after commenting that Dan flicked his hair quite a lot) why don’t you build one of those upstairs”
Hallelujah \o/
So. A couple of dumbass questions.
I can get away with it being one 8 x 4 bit of ply. I’ve figured out the mounts/frame.
This will be a 6-9 month board only. No longevity required. Q1. If I just screw holds direct to the ply (no point in T nuts? Or availability) then would 12mm ply be Ok? Or best 18mm? Though 18 min will be heavier which could be a mounting issue (to joists).
Q2. Are wood deliveries still ongoing - or should I just get off my ass and call people in S Manc tomorrow? One sheet of ply and a couple of lengths of wood aren’t much so we’ll see.
Q3. Make my own holds? Or buy some cheapy plastic ones. If latter or both any recommendations for value?
It’ll be 2.1m high. 2.44’m diagonal. A cickboatd and 46 degrees. Was thinking half wooden balls for feet. Evil.
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I'd prefer 18 for taking screws.
8 x 4 is a fine size for an old school systems board
Making holds is fine if you have the time
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You might struggle to get timber delivered at the moment. I put an order in with Travis Perkins before lock down and doubt it is going to be delivered any time soon. Looking on most timber merchants are offering services to trade customers only. B&Q offer a click and collect service (i think Wickes do too) but the quality of their plywood is not rated highly, but maybe for a temporary board that isn't a problem. I've been debating cancelling my Travis Perkins order and taking a chance with B&Q but can't decided what to do.
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Also...
If you are taking it up to the attic or down to a cellar, will the full sheet fit up/down the stairs?
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Don't worry about t nutting especially if it is only a short term board. I have screwed all the holds on my board without a problem. For larger plastic holds just go full euro and try and get 2/3 screws in the central hole (or buy some washers if you are posh!).
Worst case is on my board I'm 3 feet off the floor so if a hold did come off it wouldn't be the end of the world.
As for holds probably making them would be best as everywhere seems to be out of stock (I was considering topping up my own board).
Finally don't make the holds too small. I was overly optimistic on how strong I was initially and everything was way too hard, this just gets depressing and it is worth having a few larger jugs and mini jugs for warm ups and easier problem's.
Also did you say it is upstairs? If it is in a loft and you are repeatedly falling onto the floor you might want to double check the joists are strong enough. Damaging the ceilings probably wouldn't be ideal in the long run...
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Thanks all.
Attic room (well inhabited already). Lagers - I’ve got a double mattress up and down the stairs before so hopefully. Otherwise it may require some surgery. To the banisters obvs 🙄
PaulB has been WhatsApp ing me lots of plywood design specs - it’s basically got to go in this gap. Attaching via the two large beams and a kickboqtd at the bottom
(https://i.imgur.com/5Qik9K7_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
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Thanks all.
Attic room (well inhabited already). Lagers - I’ve got a double mattress up and down the stairs before so hopefully. Otherwise it may require some surgery. To the banisters obvs 🙄
PaulB has been WhatsApp ing me lots of plywood design specs - it’s basically got to go in this gap. Attaching via the two large beams and a kickboqtd at the bottom
(https://i.imgur.com/5Qik9K7_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
Glad I inspired something.
Tom, one thing I would say, seal the bottom of your door, chalk goes everywhere..... so much so, my neighbours garage has to covers his Porsche in a sheet :oops:
B&Q plywood will be fine, it completely rubbish stuff, but it is inside and you are essentially just drilling screws all over it.
Good luck, looks like a fun set up.
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Q2. Are wood deliveries still ongoing - or should I just get off my ass and call people in S Manc tomorrow? One sheet of ply and a couple of lengths of wood aren’t much so we’ll see.
I got some delivered on Thursday, from Holdex in Darwen.
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Cheers Dan. Good chalk advices. The rest of the room is our home office . So might have to be very careful (fan/window open etc..) or get some dust sheets.
B&Q are doing click and collect - but a big lump of ply wobbling about on the roof of my car looks a bit non essential.. I’ll chase delivery round here. Lots of places looking online are just doing trade only though. Time to get on the blower. :)
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(Ps - I think MrsTT was either quite interested in climbing in garage videos (unlikely) or you - as she wanted to watch another 😃)
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To stop getting chalk everywhere you could use liquid chalk. This is what I have to do when fingerboarding as I have it setup in the living room doorway so i can watch TV whilst hanging.
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(Ps - I think MrsTT was either quite interested in climbing in garage videos (unlikely) or you - as she wanted to watch another )
Maybe she likes how he flicks his hair ;)
https://giphy.com/gifs/zendaya-mVYIvybdGCqJy
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You might struggle to get timber delivered at the moment.
Ron Currie & Sons in Sutton In Ashfield, Nottinghamshire are still offering order online and collect service. You can arrange delivery by emailing them, their webform is broken
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Well I can get the narrow 1.8m sheets in the car - so I've ordered some from B&Q click and collect. Its bizaarely let me order despite the store being closed (I have no idea whats happening) so see what gives...
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Shame I'm so far away, got 3 sheets of ply i don't need after a mate donated his pre T-nutted boards to me when he moved.
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Shame I'm so far away, got 3 sheets of ply i don't need after a mate donated his pre T-nutted boards to me when he moved.
Bugger. Thanks anyway Chris.
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Well I can get the narrow 1.8m sheets in the car - so I've ordered some from B&Q click and collect. Its bizaarely let me order despite the store being closed (I have no idea whats happening) so see what gives...
Did you actually get click and collect to work. They don't seem to let me actually collect plywood. You can put it in your basket, it says its in stock, but every time I go to checkout they say its unavailable. I've tried a few combinations of sizes and stores, but nothing seems to work.
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Well I can get the narrow 1.8m sheets in the car - so I've ordered some from B&Q click and collect. Its bizaarely let me order despite the store being closed (I have no idea whats happening) so see what gives...
Did you actually get click and collect to work. They don't seem to let me actually collect plywood. You can put it in your basket, it says its in stock, but every time I go to checkout they say its unavailable. I've tried a few combinations of sizes and stores, but nothing seems to work.
Yeah allowed me to checkout. Got it booked. Going to call soon and find out when I can get it. What I wanted was only in one store though...
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Jamie. DM d you.
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Considering adding a crack training section to my woody, do you guys think melamine would be too slippy to jam (it would be at approximately 35° overhanging and about 8ft long)?
Never used or heard of such a thing but it sounds horribly slippery. What is the aim of the melamine, to protect your skin or make it hard? I've only ever used sanded wood: fine on the skin and slightly harder to jam than the smoothest rock. Some US climbers use deck paint or other grippy coatings but then have to tape-up to not trash their skin which seems like an unnecessary complication. The wideboyz volumes are lined with a slightly padded material - like a racquet grip - but they are trying to appeal to soft punters bring crack to the masses.
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I'm surprised by all these steep cracks. I'm not great at crack climbing, but I am not shit either. The only really steep cracks I can climb are those where I can get good foot jams (so from not-so-thin hands to hand-stacks). I can't fathom climbing ringlocks or rattly fingers at 30 degrees overhanging, unless there are some proper jugs to stand on – with feet in the crack (how?) I would not be able to do a single move. Are people just training hand jams? Surely anyone can learn to hand jam in a week or two?
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I had a horizontal hand/wide fist crack for a while before a US trip, with the aim of climbing some classic hand cracks. Whilst it was definitely overkill for my aims, rocking up to a vertical hand crack felt steady, it might have been confidence more than anything else. The core work out was also pretty good from this, and it felt like it worked jamming specific muscles on top of this.
I guess doing steep ring locks on a board (with non crack feet) would stand you in good stead hands wise for ring-locks, but you would have to "learn" the feet. Probably good specific stamina training more than anything?
For the record I am back to being shit at crack climbing due to too much bouldering these days.
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I had a horizontal hand/wide fist crack for a while before a US trip, with the aim of climbing some classic hand cracks. Whilst it was definitely overkill for my aims, rocking up to a vertical hand crack felt steady, it might have been confidence more than anything else.
I definitely learnt the opposite in that Millstone/Lawrencefield hadn't sufficed!
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Ok.. go my wood - got my plans - done my final measuring....
2.4m diagonal, 1.2m wide, 0.6m kickboard...
54 degrees.
This is steep - and is it really an issue - or does it simply mean larger holds (hands and feet)....
It’s going to be very hard to drop the angle to 45 (impossible id say) - 50-51 is possible (a bit of faff) but not sure that’s worth it for those 4 degrees..
I’ve climbed on the depot 50 quite a bit so know ish what that type of climbing is like. But this is obvs much smaller..
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Think the Manc depot is >50 and the original Schoolroom board is around 53 so you’ll be in good company. Gonna be a pretty small board though, potentially a systems set up may be best?
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Think the Manc depot is >50 and the original Schoolroom board is around 53 so you’ll be in good company. Gonna be a pretty small board though, potentially a systems set up may be best?
Training for all those routes...?
Is there anything to be done to get rid of or drastically reduce the kickboard? I'm increasingly thinking that they're a waste of space. Could you incorporate a short horizontal section end to squeeze an extra move or two out of it?
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As I understand it, having a large kickboard in effect lessens the actual climbing angle. Which could be good if 54 degrees seems a bit steep for you. The downside is that if it’s too big it encourages a bit of a weird climbing style (tucking hips right in and arching back) until your feet get higher which probably isn’t good.
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Training for all those routes...?
You can actually do hard moves with a systems set up rather than doing the same easy move 15 times if you’re not Shark.
I had assumed there was a reason for the gigantic kickboard, if not than yeah definitely reduce!
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Sounds like an even narrower but steeper version of my woodie - 40 deg overhung, 1.5m wide, 2.6m high, 3.24m diagonal length - but mine has no kickboard. I can't say I miss a kickboard - they can make the crux of a lot of problems very samey - the first footmove off the kickboard. I just hope you have some good matting, as at that angle you will be falling off violently, a lot!
I found that having two different sets of footholds worked well for getting used to the steepness / working up to smaller hand holds - big but shiny footholds and a set of smaller ones - the first challenge is to do a problem on any foothold, then try it with small footholds only!
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The sizes are governed by the space. The roof pitch is 35 degrees... hence 55 degree board.
Main points of anchor are two large beams. These are quite high (top one is c.2.25m high) and the gap between them quite wide (1.7m or so). My cls (timber) are 2.4m long - and coupled with the ply dimensions this means it has a high (0.6/0.7m) kickboard...
Andy is right - with my 2.5m+ max reach this could mean hips in feet on at the bottom type problems. Just like Anston right? :D Can have some vicious undercling sit starts though :D
I’ll have another look at my design - I might be able to make the kickboard angled - so its say 30/40 degrees.
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An alternative is to only hang the verticals off the top beam and take them straight down to the skirting board. To create one uniform angle.
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An alternative is to only hang the verticals off the top beam and take them straight down to the skirting board. To create one uniform angle.
Too long.. Got an alternative worked out...
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OK - 1.8m top section at 55 degrees (top beam to lower beam) then 1.2m section from lower beam to floor - with a 25cm kicker (as I don’t have enough ply to go all the way to the edge of the room - and a little kicker like that would be fine..). Anyone want to see my plans (PaulB look away.... :D )??
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I'd be interested. Maybe pop them up on an image hosting site and link them in here? Might be useful for others in a similar predicament.
When you say you can't do something because you haven't got enough ply, could you get some more? Board building is a faff and you kind of want to do it once and do it right. A shit board will sit unused, a good board will make you want to train. I'd say if you have to wait a few days to make it better that would be worth the wait.
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It’s only up for the lockdown/restrictions.. thems the orders!
(https://i.imgur.com/AfGwWOx_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
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It’s only up for the lockdown/restrictions.. thems the orders!
You never know, Tom. When it gives you a body like Dan's, your wife might just ask that you keep it ;)
Purely from a climbing point of view, I'd say that's a good use of the space. Haven't got my head around how you'll put it together but you don't need my advice on that.
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It’s the hair she likes ;)
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Hi Tom, I had a board in my old house/attic, that was in very similar space and setup with roof cross beams. I screwed timbers, like your cls straight through the plaster into the roof joists, then fixed ply to them. You'd end up with the beams still being there. It was a lot less faff than trying to build a frame. The beams showing are helpful on super steep little boards. I had a decent foothold, good for a heal, on it, which meant I could do mindless hand moves and get a bit of endurance training in. A big kicker is a good thing too, you be able to squeeze into the bottom a bit easier.
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I'm surprised by all these steep cracks. I'm not great at crack climbing, but I am not shit either. The only really steep cracks I can climb are those where I can get good foot jams (so from not-so-thin hands to hand-stacks). I can't fathom climbing ringlocks or rattly fingers at 30 degrees overhanging, unless there are some proper jugs to stand on – with feet in the crack (how?) I would not be able to do a single move. Are people just training hand jams? Surely anyone can learn to hand jam in a week or two?
I'm on 40 degree ringlocks on mine ;D
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Hi All,
Just got the bits in to build my first home board! Got two sheets of 8x4 plywood and I am planning to do a 45 degree 8x8 board in the cellar. Have just finished clearing it out and giving it a sweep and have encountered the first problem. Can't get the 8x4 panels round the doorway and down the stairs in the kitchen!
I am going to have to cut the panels annoyingly.
So, what would you guys recommend, because I think I can fit them either way.
Either cut into 4x4 squares, or into 8x2 strips?
I ask because I presume that the ply provides a lot of stiffness to the frame (This is a free standing board).
Cheers
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If it's built like mine (a brick shithouse) then the ply is completely non-structural. Your design might vary.
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Hi All,
Just got the bits in to build my first home board! Got two sheets of 8x4 plywood and I am planning to do a 45 degree 8x8 board in the cellar. Have just finished clearing it out and giving it a sweep and have encountered the first problem. Can't get the 8x4 panels round the doorway and down the stairs in the kitchen!
I am going to have to cut the panels annoyingly.
So, what would you guys recommend, because I think I can fit them either way.
Either cut into 4x4 squares, or into 8x2 strips?
I ask because I presume that the ply provides a lot of stiffness to the frame (This is a free standing board).
Cheers
Don't think it matters too much so I'd go for 4x4 squares as it's less cutting. The ply will provide some lateral stability to the board but hopefully you won't need too much of that!
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My board (freestanding) was wobbly as fuck until the ply went on - in which case I'd recommend 2x8
But if you've got a solid structure straight into the joists in the cellar 4x4 will be fine I'd expect
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What’s people’s thoughts on hold hole spacing? 20cm about right?
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20 is fine. Depending on your circumstances you may be able to do narrower. Have a look at how many holds you've got (I think I saw a photo on Facebook) and check whether 20 spacing will give you enough holes to put all your holds on. Consider whether you might buy more holds. I've got one set of moon bolt ins and some mini jugs and everything else is screw ins. Having 20cm spacing gives you room between bolted holds to add screw ins. So if you're not getting any more holds you don't have to consider that.
But. Don't underestimate how many holds you need and how varied they need to be to achieve a good set up. And you will always want to add more and more holds.
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You misunderstand Will - I’ll easily have fewer holds than holes... glad 20 seems sensible...
I don’t want to cheeseboard the thing - but don’t want to have too few.
Diagonal offset or regular grid.... hmm...
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I wondered about that for a while and then decided it didn't matter. I think in hindsight I'd go for diamond. It will make the climbing a bit more varied. If it's all in a square grid then it reduces the scope for how long you'll make moves a bit.
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Think mine are about 20cm spacing. Went for diagonal offset. Seems to work, not sure it matters to be honest. Am in agreement with having lots of potential for adding more holds, as this keeps things varied and motivating. Main thing for me was to build it quickly before my dislike of diy got the better of me.
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I take you guys are all just planning on making holds? I'm considering a woodie setup soon, if I get all the other DIY jobs done first.
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20cm regular grid on mine, with some screw-ons filling in the gaps.
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I was going to go for diamond offset, but was given boards with square and it works fine.
Fultonius, yes. My favourite set of holds are the 4 round feet off an old sofa. Skin friendly, tendon friendly, but a pig to hold. Once I get the hang of using them I'll reverse so they are a tad harder.
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Depends how often you plan on resetting and how precious you are about your holds but personally I wouldn't bother with t nuts. I just screw the holds on, either with a washer + screw through the bolt hole and a pin screw, or if you're feeling a bit dirty then by smashing 2 screws through the bolt hole.
Saves the effort of drilling holes and installing t nuts, plus there's no risk of spinning t nuts. If you're resetting a lot then you'll put more holes in the ply but personally I can't be bothered resetting that often.
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I have a mix of T-nuts and screw ons but board is now majority screw ons. Found the T-nuts a bit limiting but have a larger hold circuit round the outside using T-nuts and symmetrical central bit that is all screw ons. If you are putting in T-nuts other decision is whether to have them symmetrical or not - likely depends on holds.
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I got my board second hand with about 55 bolt on Bleaustone holds and a bunch of screw ons. There are also a bunch of unused t-nut holes. I've since added a lot (~150) more screw ons and have drilled 2 extra t-nut holes to move bolt on holds.
The bolt on holds are useful for warmups, circuits and easier problems (wooden jugs would be just as good for this). But very few of my hard problems use any bolt ons and resin holds are so much worse on the skin so most of my problems are all on the wooden screw ons. Screw ons are also much more versatile for positioning.
If you've already got some bolt on holds, go ahead with the t-nutting but if I was starting from scratch, there is no way I would be bothering with bolt ons and t-nuts.
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Saves the effort of drilling holes and installing t nuts, plus there's no risk of spinning t nuts. If you're resetting a lot then you'll put more holes in the ply but personally I can't be bothered resetting that often.
Just buy the type that pin with small dia. screws (from CORE) or staple across two of the spurs?
Personally I wouldn't be comfortable with larger holds pinned dirty-euro. The likes of BUK have drilled out their old-skool EP holds to take many screws which itself seems like a lot of effort (obviously less so when compared with t-nutting an entire wall).
Plywood has a 'correct' orientation and that's usually face grain parallel to the span. When you're using it for concrete shuttering it generally spans between horizontal rails, which themselves span between vertical 'soldiers' (i.e. 1-way spanning). With typical boards you've got noggins usually rather than rails, so personally, I'd be orientating it 'strongways' in the direction where the span is the greatest (i.e. C/C of the noggins vs. the C/C of your Vt aligned timbers). It's unlikely to be critical when building a home board but it will deflect less (again, I wouldn't want to have everything fixed dirty-euro with constant large deflections).
I have to say I'm seeing some pretty dodgy home setups being thrown up. People should really consider what might happen on a windy day; recent storms absolutely trashed many construction sites' hoardings and it's incredibly common for site agents to think hoardings are over-designed!
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Plywood has a 'correct' orientation and that's usually face grain parallel to the span. When you're using it for concrete shuttering it generally spans between horizontal rails, which themselves span between vertical 'soldiers' (i.e. 1-way spanning). With typical boards you've got noggins usually rather than rails, so personally, I'd be orientating it 'strongways' in the direction where the span is the greatest (i.e. C/C of the noggins vs. the C/C of your Vt aligned timbers). It's unlikely to be critical when building a home board but it will deflect less (again, I wouldn't want to have everything fixed dirty-euro with constant large deflections).
Terminology overload!!!
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Thanks. All good advice. Waiting for some big screws to properly screw it to the rafters. But at the moment my hold plans are:
Board area 1.2 by 3m. 53-55 degrees.
I’ve got 40 resin bolt ons (no jugs in them). All positive but smallish (largest 3-4 fingers).
Make/buy 10-12 large wooden holds - some jugs couple of pinches etc..
Got some jenga bricks for feet - but these may be too small except for kickboard - so May use the resin bolt ons for feet etc..
Symmetrical or not... probably not is my thinking. Esp with the limited width.
Just musing over it now. Was hoping to do some drilling - but the toddler is more interested in Lego than dads power tools...
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Terminology overload!!!
Summary: deflects less if put in the 'correct' way. 'Correct' way is dependent on the ply but usually parallel to the span. Do this on the largest spanning direction.
Walls which have plywood aligned at 45 deg. are form over function even if it does look VERY pretty.
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What's everyone's thoughts on symmetrical hold setup vs the spray wall? Considering the symmetrical setup for my woodie.
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I went with symmetrical on mine. Pros are that when you make up a problem you get 2-for-1 and work both sides of the body equally if you're strict on always doing both versions of a problem. Downsides are that there's a narrower choice of holds available if buying and increased difficulty of making symmetrical holds if not sticking to basic shapes.
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Could do a bit of both? I've got some symmetrical and a some not, depending on hold availability.
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What's everyone's thoughts on symmetrical hold setup vs the spray wall? Considering the symmetrical setup for my woodie.
I've done both over the years and found a mix of the two seems best for me as it gives you the option for mirrored problems. i found the creativity of a problems om a symmetrical board hard but they do look perdy.
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Assuming a splatter board has an adequate selection of holds, then with a bit of careful setting you'd expect the usage of limbs to average out over time? I think being compelled to complete every problem on both sides would become tedious for me. I've never used a symmetrical board in earnest however.
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Personally I go for a splatter. Maybe Im missing something, but I'm not convinced that aiming to be symmetrically strong is particularly beneficial (barring serious asymmetry e.g. while rehabbing an injury).
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Personally I quite like the symmetrical set up but do now have a mix (spray round outside).
I didn`t have any experience setting and initially had holds sprayed on but found the setting pretty difficult/ slow. So I switched to symmetrical and found it easier to set (can get images of other boards online and emulate). I don`t necessarily feel compelled to do problems both sides as left hand is consistently weaker on certain holds but it is a good bench marker when manage it.
Either way there are a couple of useful you tube videos with tips - they main tip I found useful was chalking on a grid pattern to help with hold placement (either symmetrical or not). Here is a good video :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmSMRDT8OMM
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Who's that punter???
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Who's that punter???
Dont know but he has great hair!
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Nearly finished - bar the kicker, foot holds and some wooden holds on order.
It’s 50 lower 54 upper section. 3m board length 1.2m wide. Went for 20cm across and 40 cm vertical for Bolt on spacing for now (I’ve only 40 holds). Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions. Only been up once so far (screw on feet hopefully tomorrow) but climbs really well hard - but not impossible (with the big feet holds).
Feels great to be moving again rather than hanging.
(https://i.imgur.com/z7Mc8lo_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
(https://i.imgur.com/LZnMwzo_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
(https://i.imgur.com/YyMgTOS_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
(https://i.imgur.com/CxseVSe_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
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Nice one! How long does a temporary feature have to be in place before it becomes permanent? :)
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Nice one! How long does a temporary feature have to be in place before it becomes permanent? :)
Shhh!
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Looks great TT!
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That's looking very decent. Looking forward to seeing it with more holds. It looks like there could be some scraped knuckle/splinter potential when going for the top holds. It looks like you've got room for a little vertical panel at the end. What about that with some finishing holds on it?
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You planning on using the top holds on yours at some point Will, rather than just jumping for the top of the board? 😄
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:P
The two that are up there are a campus rung cut in half. Some problems do finish on them but it's more for doing some warm up hangs and pulls. I do think I need to fashion some wooden finishing holds to go up there though.
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Plan is to screw a cls strip Behind the ply protruding about 2cm from the top - smooth off the corners etc.. and there’s a nice finishing rail.
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B&Q plywood will be fine, it completely rubbish stuff, but it is inside and you are essentially just drilling screws all over it.
Ok, so where does "good" ply? I'm potentially just going to get it from B&Q for ease, but if somewhere does better, and it's available, I might cost it up.
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I think the quality of the ply for most builder's or timber merchants will be a lot better. But a lot of them are only serving trade customers. Saying that I got ply recently from B&Q and was actually pleasantly surprised. It looks pretty good quality, so maybe they have improved the supply.
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If you google for your local timber merchants you'll find something. They'll probably do home delivery too if you're nearby.
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If you google for your local timber merchants you'll find something. They'll probably do home delivery too if you're nearby.
You’ll need to call them not go on line and good luck.
For me it was a no and a no in Manchester. Trade only. I’d expect it’s the same everywhere. I found one place - but when the guy found out how little I actually wanted - he didn’t laugh but fobbed me off and told me to call the next week etc.. all the timber merchants are only delivering to trade. One offered to ‘leave the stuff on a trolley around the back” etc...
All of which is fair enough. If I was having to sell timber at this time I wouldn’t piss about with tiny orders.
But try - if you get lucky 👍👍
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30+ sheets of ply and enough timber to build a very large board just got delivered to the house/building site next to my house.
A message from god me thinks. Pretty sure they wont miss a few sheets.
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They've factored "contraction" of supplies into the calculations of how much they need anyway. Beware CCTV though.
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B&Q plywood will be fine, it completely rubbish stuff, but it is inside and you are essentially just drilling screws all over it.
Ok, so where does "good" ply? I'm potentially just going to get it from B&Q for ease, but if somewhere does better, and it's available, I might cost it up.
I’ve just built one out of the cheapest 18mm b and q softwood pine. It’s been up two and a half weeks and seems fine and solid so far. I didn’t have Paul’s orientation knowledge either, so it’s on the weak way, but no problems, touch wood.
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Dont get bogged down in this. The school was built with the cheapest shuttering ply known to man and some bent 3x2s and lasted years. The plys still going now in its new location.
Everyone gets carried away now with needing hardwood holds and special ply. We built boards for years out of off cuts from skips and they were fine.
If its indoors it will be fine if its outside it will rot whatever you buy.
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Ok, so where does "good" ply? I'm potentially just going to get it from B&Q for ease, but if somewhere does better, and it's available, I might cost it up.
Make sure you look for marine plywood. Better quality apparently.
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They've factored "contraction" of supplies into the calculations of how much they need anyway. Beware CCTV though.
They have only just got colour TVs here never mind CCTV.
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Everyone gets carried away now with needing hardwood holds and special ply. We built boards for years out of off cuts from skips and they were fine.
If its indoors it will be fine if its outside it will rot whatever you buy.
Remove the rose tinted specs 8)
The school was literally tied to the tie members of the building; that doesn't make it desirable! It also deflected a significant amount (especially with a Seb or Busby in-situ). I've never climbed on another board that could be rev'd so much. Crucial holds have needed replacing / repairing (Stuey) or are just degrading with time (Basic-knitwear). Before the Crag-X board was binned, some of the holds (Stuperman) had degraded by the softer grains compressing leaving the harder grains like staggered razor blades. Nige sanded these off making the problem significantly harder but making it far more pleasant.
When it was salvaged (N.B. very few past users turned out), there was talk of it going to the Works and the consensus was that the holds/board would never survive the traffic. The other suggestion was a bonfire.
You can buy better quality ply for the same price as B&Q elsewhere so I've got no idea why you wouldn't do so. Likewise C24 is barely more expensive than C16 and is literally 1.5x better.
There's been some candidates for future Darwin awards with some of the recent builds!
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I agree about the holds. I got a kind head start from the worlds best fingerboard maker and those holds are obviously miles better than the ones I’m making, as you’d expect, but I’m using a mixture of softwood and hardwood to make holds (as that’s what I have available) and the hardwood ones are noticeably better than the softwood ones. As well as being more confidence inspiring when used for thin crimps.
I’m fairly confident that my incorrectly orientated cheap softwood ply panels aren’t going to rip off the frame any time soon though, and I ain’t a lightweight (unfortunately).
If you can get marine ply for a similar price then I’d go for that, but it was significantly more expensive when I bought it to convert a van recently. I obviously need better suppliers.
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I’m experiencing no flex - no creaking - and going by the specs of the screws holding it to the rafters its good for 1000kg.... (though the 11 bolts are not equally sharing of course).
B&Q ply was by availability rather than choice... in normal times I’d have got the same spec timber and boards for half the price at the local timber merchant (I checked).
It was also really tricky buying screws etc.. online - normally id go and look and make the decision that way. Still. It’s up now and I’m happy.
I had forgotten how fucking hot it gets up in the loft room on sunny days though 🤦♂️
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Likewise with regard to B and Q, although I’ve never found the price differences as stark as double, with the exception of more specialist stuff.
I found their customer service, over the phone, really good. They managed to pull forward my delivery by 4 days when I had a panic on about the potential for deliveries to stop if we got locked down.
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Hi Andy - the ply costs were double (possibly more) as I got four smaller sheets instead of one large sheet and an offcit. The other places would have cut the sheet for next to nowt...
But you know - needs mist and all that. I don’t begrudge it. Prefer to spend at the smaller place if possible. BQ were absolutely fine.
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Needs must indeed.
I hope you got some spare bits, cos I’ve since had to build a second board for my 2 year old. He thought my board was shit. The main issue is now that every new pair of holds I make he wants put on his board!
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so.... anyone has any experience with small free standing walls that they can share? I am pretty confident I can make something that is not absolutely rubbish, but personal experience would be gold
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How small is small? I got one in my room which is just 1 full sheet of ply at 20 degrees and kicker as big as i could fit to get the top all the way to the ceiling.
Pretty simple to do. Just an A frame made out of studwork timber, some joists going across the back of the boad to reinforce, and a couple 'braces' at the bottom to prevent the frame from opening up and flattening with me attached.
Been about 10 years it's been up and still solid.
A board this size is not particularly fun, I only use it for winter training and some quick campusing sessions as i'd go to the wall for anything else otherwise.
With some holds it'd probably make a decent system board and maybe get to do a couple moves up then down. I should probably do that really.
Couple of photos should give you the idea
(http://i.imgur.com/Rlzp79C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jQOS7OP.jpg)
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And found this old pic where you can see the 'proportions' in use
(https://oi226.photobucket.com/albums/dd137/senorlopez13/SDC13485.jpg)
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I built one that was a trapezoid shaped frame so that I didn’t feel like we would hit the supports all the time. I then panelled the horizontals at the top and the just off vertical supports at the back to make and arch shaped climbing surface.
In retrospect we didn’t use the vert wall much and the holds made it feel like a spookier prospect to hit when falling off, but it was a good board.
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I’m fairly confident that my incorrectly orientated cheap softwood ply panels aren’t going to rip off the frame any time soon though, and I ain’t a lightweight (unfortunately).
If you can get marine ply for a similar price then I’d go for that, but it was significantly more expensive when I bought it to convert a van recently. I obviously need better suppliers.
Of course they're not going to, and softwood doesn't necessarily mean it's worse ply (the gold standard of shuttering ply is softwood and nobody ever wants to pay for it). My first ever board was made from OSB :worms:. I just don't see why if you're building a board you wouldn't chose to try and put it the correct/best oreintation, perhaps that's just me...(I've already been called a jobsworth once today) :tumble:
I’m experiencing no flex - no creaking - and going by the specs of the screws holding it to the rafters its good for 1000kg.... (though the 11 bolts are not equally sharing of course).
1000kg is ~10kN; your fixings won't be limited by their own tensile capacity, it'll be either the wood they're into or almost certainly the bearing of the head against the timber (this ranges from about 2.5N/mm2 for C16 to 5N/mm2 for D50 hardwood or to put it differently a 70mm dia. washer or a 50mm dia. washer respectively).
This is pure pedantry of course.
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I’m fairly confident that my incorrectly orientated cheap softwood ply panels aren’t going to rip off the frame any time soon though, and I ain’t a lightweight (unfortunately).
If you can get marine ply for a similar price then I’d go for that, but it was significantly more expensive when I bought it to convert a van recently. I obviously need better suppliers.
Of course they're not going to, and softwood doesn't necessarily mean it's worse ply (the gold standard of shuttering ply is softwood and nobody ever wants to pay for it). My first ever board was made from OSB :worms:. I just don't see why if you're building a board you wouldn't chose to try and put it the correct/best oreintation, perhaps that's just me...(I've already been called a jobsworth once today) :tumble:
Sorry Paul, I didn’t mean to sound like I was disagreeing with regard to the orientation. I would definitely put boards up the right way, it’s just that I didn’t know about it until you posted (hence the waddage before I started posting) and my board was already up by then.
Re. Softwood. I know that it isn’t the defining feature of quality, I was just using it as a descriptor for the cheapest stuff in b and q cos that’s what they call it on their website. The point I was trying to get across to drew was that I don’t think you need to spend the extra on the best quality stuff. I’ve built boards from marine ply, cheap ply, OSB and chipboard and they’ve all been fine.
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(https://i.imgur.com/kgbdRYp.jpg)
Here's mine that went up a few weeks back. Holds are on the bid side as it's more about staying fit (and sane) than getting strong for now. 30 degrees (straight in reality, had to use pano to get it in shot) and a mix of discards from Climb Newcastle and Hard Wood Holds.
I have no idea if my plywood is the right way around.
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So I have the boards, the wood for the frame, 200 + holds. We have just moved house, so the garage currently has the above,5 bikes, a fridge freezer, washer, tumble drier, the range cooker we couldn’t sell to people who sold our other house to. Plus a few other things, so it’s out for a board at the moment.
We have 4 bedrooms two which have double beds in, one which is now a sowing room :o and the other room which has built in sauna is the grandsons bedroom.
So we have lots of room in front of the garage to build something there. However my question of would it be acceptable to build something there was met with Stoney silence.
Any suggestions for the next step other than showing the missus pictures of Dan’s hair.
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begging and oral.
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Sorry Paul, I didn’t mean to sound like I was disagreeing...
I was a bit touchy yesterday after dealing with a contractor who repeatedly believes they can defy physics.
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Feel your pain. We have one in West Africa who believes we have the power to bend the time continuum.
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Think some folk were asking about setting on a home board - Ben (head setter at yonder and half of impact route setting with Cailean) think he's ben99 on here but doesn't post much - anyway, he's built a board for lock down and they put up a vid about setting it. Not watched yet, but he ought to know what he's talking about.
https://youtu.be/377TsPbim1w
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Sorry Paul, I didn’t mean to sound like I was disagreeing...
I was a bit touchy yesterday after dealing with a contractor who repeatedly believes they can defy physics.
Is that not normal. Mine all want invisible stuff.
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Cheers for that vid Duma. Been doing some setting on mine over the last couple of days.
Interesting - Ben suggests few feet widely spaced so you have uncomfortable moves (or something like that) - though on mine I have quite a lot of feet (small edges) and this allows me to work out the best position for my feet. I’m still only 6-9 months into board climbing and still learning a lot about my body position and where feet work best (which is often quite different on a steep board from what I first think) - so having lots helps.
They also have loads of large handholds - so more spaced feet works better...
I can always take some off though 😃
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I can always take some off though 😃
Or just not use them. Crazy I know!
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Is that not normal. Mine all want invisible stuff.
Yes. Still this did make me smile :great:
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GWhlVbWidU1UYqQY_L5sEZad9AZhRydbUowYm0tmORSlNZGPRvnwSo_PJRF-F98BKzrcl6nyk6dPYPPe0cdCg9ELTQc9hxr5upUof2pKASwr01MgPjS4NXYIlld8a8rXC-4s957fSSflDgJoSrshnai4nTohdQgQpft2uz5IYgDsxLZsSVkimVkJr3Jf0p6SA3zY0B9IMZ5ctKGkip3ZmQbKKwpuI14zmnmMXRIEpYeszlj1jRSQwQZFhbyhe_aYQUN7f7fV9sxQH1_Tj_ayiRy0HwnuOoTu7OriHzdsiAaZhAqrPwPN2WiULCNfRna0cfVO-BzywmftMvH_YG2SJfN2qRt1OPq1C02xxGQztZyDdJbnfIShWcHuuaoCtyYkIhOyXwQv_M-Ws63kfFcL9IhaRb-62-bLK3LV6yBnAu6hIxzX1Kj6UEb2F_1V_V48npwoHRszRrKpt87SmCnCGMvtYzA-7KXZsFd9ap1U4lh4x9Ohbb6faklkYeWygTfOyjqvbs-V3oPVX6cpUtAGsoeeyJyRelWU54KiqDR9-ia2Wa2N-YN4Gh0GBmLIIPHPIy9gnip2TxzjxPLSbQbIlLNEdqVzPMFEiR-Sy6rLfBidW1wLOiogkSbyDyXj5pXDvY7rPz9Vs-79ZY3VE6BvQrpoWj4uSqOc63515aZfs17pnnb1-AZkP7TAMJLv=w783-h772-no)
We've decided that, since the van can't actually fit in the garage anyway (too high), we can probably use one corner for a board. We're got a fair bit of space/height to work with, but not sure the ideal dims.
I don't want to go much more than 2m wide at the base of the steeper wall, as it will impinge too much on the workbench. Any thoughts on:
Ideal kickboard height?
Ideal angle of side wall (currently set at -10)
Ideal angle of steep wall (currently set at -30)
Note: I'm not a huge fan of 45 boards, so probably don't want steeper than 30. I'm also too shit at bouldering to do anything less than jugs at that angle.
3.3m high at apex. Am I best to have a vertical finish board?
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30 sounds good to me, if you've got the height (which you do) and it's your only climbing I wouldnt go steeper. If you've only got 2m width I prob wouldn't bother with the side and maximise the width of the main board. At 30 don't think you really need a foot board or top vert bit
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In order to simplify build, I'd not bother with a kickboard. If you feel you need one later, it's an easy retrofit. My board is 26 deg and i don't miss one. Not sure the side board is worth the bother at all, and if you do put one in, for the complexity of putting a 10 deg board in, you might as well just go vertically, and not lose any room at the top of an already fairly narrow board. Don't bother with a vertical finish, additional construction faff. KISS.
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lol, fools never differ ;)
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Ha, jinx
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Ok, we’re going to try to get some timber to build an outside board along the lines of the Yonder guys’ one. I’ve built 2x freestanding boards years ago which were massively over engineered. Hopefully this time it’ll be a bout simpler.
We’re aiming for 30-40deg / board length of 4.8m but we might just start with 3x boards high, so climbable length of 3.6m
What size timber for the verticals would you experts recommend? 2x6 or 2x8?
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/48193219@N00/49754151171/in/dateposted-public/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/48193219@N00/49754151171/in/dateposted-public/)
I built this for someone last week, it’s 20 degrees and 3.66m. It’s just built out of 4x2 as that’s all he could get his hands on. Feels very solid when climbing on it though, so imagine 6x2 would be more than strong enough.
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What size timber for the verticals would you experts recommend? 2x6 or 2x8?
Whilst trying not to be completely unhelpful it totally depends on the centers. Bigger section allows for bigger centers (with some caveats here about how much you're happy with the ply deflecting [SLS] / how far it can span [ULS]).
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It was actually 3.1m high. Was intended to be higher and I think it would still work fine, but he was conscious of neighbour’s window.
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Out of interest what are the centers of your 4 x 2 behind?
My back of fag packet calcs are based on my home wall which uses the same and doesn't flex at all.
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Yeah, I think maybe the best plan is to stick up a PDF plan for comments. Need to figure out what timber I can get my hands on.
The Yonder one got various YouTube comments questioning the relative lack of horizontals on the back. I think their argument was that it wasn’t intended to last very long...
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1220mm. So one at each end and one in the middle.
I guess the 2400mm header that takes the middle strut is doing more work than it’s supposed to, but in practice seemed to be ok.
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I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard. Ben is bringing a set up out based on a mini board with 12 rows based on original holds plus the new wooden ones, so i will set it up like that with a few extra rows of randoms at the top.
Using 2" x 4" (50mm x 100mm) for the frame at 800 centers with 19mm ply which i am sure will be more than strong enough for a home wall. I can fix to the concrete soffit at the head so no issues there and the rest will be freestanding. Fingerboard rail on the side and maybe a five rung campus board but not sure i will use it much.
I have been thinking about doing this for years but kept putting it off as i thought i wouldnt use it enough but lockdowns given me the time to do it so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it. Not built a board for years.
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1220mm. So one at each end and one in the middle.
I guess the 2400mm header that takes the middle strut is doing more work than it’s supposed to, but in practice seemed to be ok.
Interesting. That comes out a bit light in my head when you work it back to a UDL.
Using 2" x 4" (50mm x 100mm) for the frame at 800 centers with 19mm ply which i am sure will be more than strong enough for a home wall. I can fix to the concrete soffit at the head so no issues there and the rest will be freestanding. Fingerboard rail on the side and maybe a five rung campus board but not sure i will use it much.
I'd agree.
I have been thinking about doing this for years but kept putting it off as i thought i wouldnt use it enough but lockdowns given me the time to do it so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it. Not built a board for years.
:great: there's a Bisharat article somewhere where he compressed a Moonboard and he also has resin campus rungs :worms:
Yeah, I think maybe the best plan is to stick up a PDF plan for comments. Need to figure out what timber I can get my hands on.
Looking at the Yonder board, I can't fathom why you'd choose to break the central timber up between your horizontal rails. Likewise, as above, the centers would make me uncomfortable. I also can't see what's restraining the foot of the board/supports?
With that said, there's plenty that makes me uncomfortable day to day that doesn't fall down (see GME's earlier comments re: the School's construction). FoS = 1.
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so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it.
I really enjoyed thinking about it, planning it and building it.
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I liked the finishing work on mine, finally getting it done felt like a chore early on though.
Really great to be be able to nip out and have a go on it for half an hour at any time, and being able to set for do easily / can do most of but will go soon / impossible and being able to tweak between the 3 based on using any feet, screw ons for feet or hands follow feet.
Got a ladder of banister rails that I'm using to work on pinches, can give them a tap to get them a bit closer to vertical so they are getting harder and harder to hold.
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hands follow feet
That sounds quite a lot tougher!
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Punter alert:
https://youtu.be/nEg2lHl2o6Y
Kickboard and new wooden holds to come... may have to make some of the feet closer to edge - hard to make some throws with a narrow space..
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hands follow feet
That sounds quite a lot tougher!
lol. You know what I mean! I've actually got a problem using old feet off a sofa called "feet for hands".
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I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard.
That sounds identical to my board if you want to see what it looks like (there are some videos on Instagram). There are 15 rows of T-nuts (I think they're at the 20cm Moon spacing) before a short kickboard.
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hands follow feet
That sounds quite a lot tougher!
lol. You know what I mean! I've actually got a problem using old feet off a sofa called "feet for hands".
Like it! You can't stay away from wordplay can you?
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Word to that.
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I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard.
That sounds identical to my board if you want to see what it looks like (there are some videos on Instagram). There are 15 rows of T-nuts (I think they're at the 20cm Moon spacing) before a short kickboard.
Will check it out. I think the official 12 row mini board will be out and on the APP in a few weeks so will go along with that. Even when we are not on lock down i climb on my own so fancy the ability to have 100s of problems gifted to me, plus i also like the new holds, hopefully they are ok outside.
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Anyone built a board at a shallower angle? I'm pretty limited in options but if, as I think likely, walls won't reopen before the autumn, then it may be worth doing what I can.
Reckon I can get 3m climbing surface/2.8m high/1m overhang for approx 20°
Basically it's in a narrow courtyard, so the 1m overhang is as much as I can get - allowing space to swing off safely. I can go higher, but at a shallower angle. Worth it? Any tips?
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The school originally had the crag-x board that wasn't all that steep but you started hanging with one foot on. For a few problems you'd start just hanging the starting holds and getting your foot on was pretty bloody hard in itself.
The holds were all small and I found it incredibly good in terms of finger/contact strength.
I was a bit saddened when it didn't make the revamp.
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Anyone built a board at a shallower angle?
The picture I linked to further back is pretty much exactly the dimensions and height you describe.
I had a quick go on it to test how solid it was and at 20 degrees it's steep enough to do a sit start, and gives 3-5 moves depending on size of move. It's definitely worthwhile if the holds are bad.
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Anyone built a board at a shallower angle? I'm pretty limited in options but if, as I think likely, walls won't reopen before the autumn, then it may be worth doing what I can.
Reckon I can get 3m climbing surface/2.8m high/1m overhang for approx 20°
Basically it's in a narrow courtyard, so the 1m overhang is as much as I can get - allowing space to swing off safely. I can go higher, but at a shallower angle. Worth it? Any tips?
Smaller holds and/or shitter footholds. The 35 at Mad Volume in Hull climbs remarkably like the 50+ at the depot - because the feet are so much harder!
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Any tips?
Yep, owt is better than nowt! Probably no kickboard needed at that angle for a start.
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Ah yes, cheers SF I had seen that but somehow hadn't made the connection! Does that really overhang a meter? Looks less steep than the drawing I made, but could be the perspective.
TT, yeah but 35° is very different to 20°! If I had the space and only one board it would be 30°-35°, really like that sort of angle to climb on and means you can use bad enough holds to be realistic for rock projects, without them being too tiny and painful. Just needs a fair amount of height to get a decent climbing length in. Sadly not an option for me anyway...
Chris, def won't be having a kicker.
Still not decided if it'll be worth it, max width is around 5ft too.
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(https://fabrikmedia.blob.core.windows.net/11wb/88aa1b2d37f06061.png)
Ok, this is a bit of a crap and rushed diagram which will probably offend all the engineers...
I’d like to build a board at 35deg, with room for 4x 8x4 sheets up, but probably only 3x to start with.
My main questions are re the timber sections (2x4 for the 4x main vertical pieces, 2x4 for everything else), relative merits of overlapping and bolting through at B and C vs butting the timber up and screwing through a ply lapping section (ie the two diagrams at the bottom), and the cross piece A - I always remember landing on this in the past, though in this case it would be relatively further back if we’re not climbing to the top of the frame.
Any thoughts?
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Cross piece A can be smaller cross section (3"x1" ish?) and lie flat to the floor?
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Not an engineer or even close, but why not have the supports (the non board side of your triangle) vertical or at least more vertical?
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I did wonder about both these things. Last one of these I built as the subject of advice from a sofa designer and built like a tank... This is going in the garden btw, before anyone thinks we have a 5m high ballroom to put this in...
I would love to reduce the overall depth, so reducing the non-board depth a bit would be very advantageous.
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If overlapping at the top coach bolt join, wouldn't you have to overlap at the bottom rear corner and butt join at B (unless bending the timber)?
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Yes, I see your point. I think my aim would be to keep the board side as neat / disassemble-able as possible, so maybe bolt the top and base of the board, and butt-join / ply-lap the joint at B...
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Cross piece A can be smaller cross section (3"x1" ish?) and lie flat to the floor?
SF used ply which seemed very sensible.
The bolted connections require a timber to deviate by the thickness (2") don't they? This isn't good for your coach bolt (will it fail? ...probably not).
You won't be able to easily fix your horizontal rails/noggins without offsetting them.
I think there's a typo in your post and you meant 2 x 6" for the struts?
I don't really understand why you'd have the outer timbers on the climbing surface as 2 x 6" and the others as 2 x 4" apart from the increased shear area for your bolted connection.
If you imagine the self-weight as uniform pressure (simplification), the 2 x 4 are taking the load from half the span to the left and half the span to the right (in terms of their bending) whereas your 2 x 6 only has half a span (i.e. either nothing to the left and half to the right, or half to the left and nothing to the right).
Not an engineer or even close, but why not have the supports (the non board side of your triangle) vertical or at least more vertical?
If you think of the climbing surface as a beam, supported at the ends (foot and head), the reaction at the head will have a horizontal and vertical component (normal to the surface). You want the majority of that to be applied axially through the strut. If you take a home ruler and stand it vertically in front of you applying load to the top and poke it from the side, you'll see it doesn't like it very much. The same applies here. It's obv. more complex than that as it depends on what the climber is doing.
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Paul will give you a proper answer, but this looks quite similar to my board though your design is a bit different. I don't have a bar at the bottom in the landing zone. I would have thought that putting in the 2x4 spacers on the back would have given you enough side sway support (definitely listen to whatever Paul tells you though - I can't even remember if I have spacers on mine.
What I do have is two 2x6 side stays joining the back to the front struts, creating an A frame. They gave me a lot of confidence (who knows whether it was well founded) that it wasn't going to come crashing down. And I think I had the wood left over from the big lengths of 2x6 that I bought.
I think the front legs of mine don't extend as far out as that. I don't know what's proper engineering, but I do know they shouldn't be vertical.
Worth bearing in mind that a garden board will probably merit more in the way of side sway support because it will have to cope with the wind. Having ply on it turns it into a sail. The 2x6 will be hefty and hopefully weigh it down, but maybe consider anchoring it to the ground in some way (especially if it ends up being top heavy for any reason).
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Paul
Very helpful, thanks. So if the entire board side was 2x4, the 2x stays on the non-board side 2x6, all joints butted / ply sections overlapped and screwed through, section A is ply (screwed underneath so lying flat at the base), and the noggins tweaked, I’d be getting there...?
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(https://fabrikmedia.blob.core.windows.net/11wb/88aa1b2d37f06061.png)
Ok, this is a bit of a crap and rushed diagram which will probably offend all the engineers...
I’d like to build a board at 35deg, with room for 4x 8x4 sheets up, but probably only 3x to start with.
My main questions are re the timber sections (2x4 for the 4x main vertical pieces, 2x4 for everything else), relative merits of overlapping and bolting through at B and C vs butting the timber up and screwing through a ply lapping section (ie the two diagrams at the bottom), and the cross piece A - I always remember landing on this in the past, though in this case it would be relatively further back if we’re not climbing to the top of the frame.
Any thoughts?
I have a broadly similar freestanding concept, just under 3m vertical height so rather smaller. I've found the wall solid enough if there is ever an eathquake i'll be hiding underneath it... I don't have cross-beam 'a'. I do have a direct cross-beam between the side triangles at the top. I also put in extra bracing on the sides so all the load doesn't go through the one joint at the top. Side wood is 2x6, wood behind the ply is 2x4. Joint at the top is butted, others are bolts...
The angle on the front stays is about 15 degrees off vertical. My main concern was to keep my bodyweight inside the triangle if i cut loose while minimising the footprint.
Footnote, i'm not an engineer...
Edit, found my post on here with some photos of the build if they are any help.
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3260.msg458441.html#msg458441
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Worth bearing in mind that a garden board will probably merit more in the way of side sway support because it will have to cope with the wind. Having ply on it turns it into a sail. The 2x6 will be hefty and hopefully weigh it down, but maybe consider anchoring it to the ground in some way (especially if it ends up being top heavy for any reason).
My garden board is bolted to concreted in post brackets. Removes the need for the cross piece A and stops me worrying that its going to take off in a storm.
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Worth bearing in mind that a garden board will probably merit more in the way of side sway support because it will have to cope with the wind. Having ply on it turns it into a sail. The 2x6 will be hefty and hopefully weigh it down, but maybe consider anchoring it to the ground in some way (especially if it ends up being top heavy for any reason).
I'll give a rough internet opinion that should definitely be checked specifically for your case/location by a qualified competent person :worms:
The wind is another good point. Working wind pressure is 0.2kPa. It's pretty easy to do an over-turning calc on a fag packed based on the sail area of the board acting half way up, compared to the CoG of the board (half way out from the foot of your climbing surface). Even for temporary stuff (~1yr) it's common to look at both working wind and peak (which is considerably higher [~x 3-4) and depends on things like where you live); You can also do with the same with sliding (sail area x surface area gives you a Hz force which is resisted by the self weight of the thing x friction factor). Both of these checks usually target a FoS. I'd consider whether you think it might blow into anything important and how long you're intending it to live for.
For anyone utterly bored this (https://higherlogicdownload.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/TWFORUM/TWf2012.01_Hoarding%20guide_April_14_FINAL.pdf?AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAVRDO7IEREB57R7MT&Expires=1586952031&Signature=PDWQPtm9VBBcdC8m6rb%2FqiVH9f4%3D#page=25&zoom=100,0,0) is useful for providing context.
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My garden board is bolted to concreted in post brackets. Removes the need for the cross piece A and stops me worrying that its going to take off in a storm.
Sense.
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With more frequent board use I am really appreciating how superior wood holds are over resin. Much friendlier for tips.
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In order to simplify build, I'd not bother with a kickboard. If you feel you need one later, it's an easy retrofit. My board is 26 deg and i don't miss one. Not sure the side board is worth the bother at all, and if you do put one in, for the complexity of putting a 10 deg board in, you might as well just go vertically, and not lose any room at the top of an already fairly narrow board. Don't bother with a vertical finish, additional construction faff. KISS.
I thought you know me better Chris - overcomplicating things is my MO! The sideboard needs to clear the roller door, so the 10 degrees is more about maximising the width of the base. I could further complicate matters by kicking it back to vertical at the top on the side board ;)
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I've been using my exercise allowance these last few days to cycle around town searching skips and looking for any wood i could use to make holds but couldn't find anything suitable seeing as i don't have a belt sander. However last night i struck gold, so thought i'd share it so people in the same situation know what to look for.
A wooden handrail.
Ridiculously easy to make any sort of hold and fine tune them from pretty good to downright filthy all with just a jigsaw and some sandpaper. Pinches with small flatties on top, medium crimps, small and nasty crimps, etc all in like half an hour and the wood feels as solid as it gets :bounce:
(https://i.imgur.com/J3gDU0F.jpg)
Oh and also slopers/mini jugs
(https://i.imgur.com/fPevBNH.jpg)
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PS. Big thanks to who suggested liquid chalk.. (can’t remember who - sorry) got some yesterday and it’s (a) weird and (b) much less messy to the room.
Suspect it’s also decent hand sanitiser too....
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Mmmhh... Wood still not good enough for small footholds.
Any tips on what could be good for that? It seems anything under 15/20mm just snaps, and at that size all my footholds feel like ledges. Already had 3 footholds breaking and can't be taking uncontrolled falls as the risk of injury is pretty high...
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Mmmhh... Wood still not good enough for small footholds.
Any tips on what could be good for that? It seems anything under 15/20mm just snaps, and at that size all my footholds feel like ledges. Already had 3 footholds breaking and can't be taking uncontrolled falls as the risk of injury is pretty high...
Hardwood Jenga blocks.
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Mmmhh... Wood still not good enough for small footholds.
Any tips on what could be good for that? It seems anything under 15/20mm just snaps, and at that size all my footholds feel like ledges. Already had 3 footholds breaking and can't be taking uncontrolled falls as the risk of injury is pretty high...
I do like these from Core:
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/climbing-holds/geo/geo-screw-on-feet-board
They have smaller ones also...
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Those core footholds are a pretty good price, thanks. Jenga blocks also sound good, i'll have a look on ebay see what they are going for as i can;t see any turning up in skips any time soon. Cheers
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Mmmhh... Wood still not good enough for small footholds.
Any tips on what could be good for that? It seems anything under 15/20mm just snaps, and at that size all my footholds feel like ledges. Already had 3 footholds breaking and can't be taking uncontrolled falls as the risk of injury is pretty high...
I've got quite a few of the Crusher Dinks on my board that are oak and have been good http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-wood-footholds (http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-wood-footholds) and as tomtom suggests lots of people use jenga blocks so wood is fine for footholds as long as it's a suitable wood. I've quite a few wooden half-ball domes as well which are birch (these were off ebay). Hard Wood Holds make their wooden footholds from beech.
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Can you make footholds out of plywood?
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Don't think they'd hold up under use much. Hard wood, or even soft would be better.
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Just by these.... i know a few people using them. If they are too hard for you cut a nick out the top. Job done.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123869199661
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Plywood just splinters as soon as you touch it, so no good.
Adam those look awesome. Estimated delivery between April 29 and June the 2nd though... Good lead anyway, Loads of different sizes and wood types when searching ebay for "Wooden Split Balls". Nice one, loads of options now ;D
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Just ordered a set of each of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272714162159
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272870005277
If they work ok at just over £5 for 16 footholds is a bargain :weakbench:
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Just ordered a set of each of these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272714162159
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272870005277
If they work ok at just over £5 for 16 footholds is a bargain :weakbench:
Thanks dude, just ordered the same!
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Mmmhh... Wood still not good enough for small footholds.
Any tips on what could be good for that? It seems anything under 15/20mm just snaps, and at that size all my footholds feel like ledges. Already had 3 footholds breaking and can't be taking uncontrolled falls as the risk of injury is pretty high...
I've got quite a few of the Crusher Dinks on my board that are oak and have been good http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-wood-footholds (http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-wood-footholds) and as tomtom suggests lots of people use jenga blocks so wood is fine for footholds as long as it's a suitable wood. I've quite a few wooden half-ball domes as well which are birch (these were off ebay). Hard Wood Holds make their wooden footholds from beech.
Ye I have a lot of the Crusher dinks as well - really like them and they seem solid.
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Crusher are out of stock of everything and not taking orders though
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This is only temporary, until I've cleared the lock down back log. One product I do have is a box load of is the foot dinks, about the only thing. If you want some, email me through the address on the website or pm and I'll be able to sort. Cheers.
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I've been using my exercise allowance these last few days to cycle around town searching skips and looking for any wood i could use to make holds but couldn't find anything suitable seeing as i don't have a belt sander. However last night i struck gold, so thought i'd share it so people in the same situation know what to look for.
A wooden handrail.
Ridiculously easy to make any sort of hold and fine tune them from pretty good to downright filthy all with just a jigsaw and some sandpaper. Pinches with small flatties on top, medium crimps, small and nasty crimps, etc all in like half an hour and the wood feels as solid as it gets :bounce:
(https://i.imgur.com/J3gDU0F.jpg)
Oh and also slopers/mini jugs
(https://i.imgur.com/fPevBNH.jpg)
known as "mopstick handrail" if anyone is looking to buy it online - the ~50mm diameter works well
mount on ply offcuts to make jugs
(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DhUuAGWXcAAkc0L.jpg)
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
Have a look at the prices of the larger comp style holds you see down the wall :o. I've heard rumours of outrageous (in my head but probably not based on traffic) hold budgets for London walls (per month).
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(https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DhUuAGWXcAAkc0L.jpg)
Looks like you have enough to keep you going!
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I had never appreciated how much psyche (and ease of use) there was to be gained from naming the holds and the problems. Highly recommended.
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I've got an old whiteboard i got when our old office closed, which is getting put to good use keeping track of problems and progress.
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
What's the breakdown for that lot Gav? Managed to get all the wood and fixings for mine for £270 (2.4 x 3.6m) so Im guessing most of the wonga went on holds?
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
My budget.
£130 wood, screws and bolts
£70 (40 assorted resin holds tnuts and bolts)
£8 hardwood Jenga set on EBay. Feet
£5 wooden half domes. Feet.
£10 decent Allen key for TNut cap screws.
£120-150 for 24 wooden holds - being made for me at the moment.
£6 liquid chalk.
£350 ish?
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A chalk ball kept in an old takeaway container keeps dust minimal if the resin on your hands doesn't appeal.
Of course, that bumps the cost if you have to buy a takeaway.
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A chalk ball kept in an old takeaway container keeps dust minimal if the resin on your hands doesn't appeal.
Of course, that bumps the cost if you have to buy a takeaway.
Likewise, Carlisle Slapper used to have an Ikea (?) laundry basket (the type that has a spring like structure and slot in the top; like this (https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/fyllen-laundry-basket-white-20408017/) but less shit!) with a chalk bucket in the base during the era of the bed board:
https://vimeo.com/2795225
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Yeah - yet to really try out the liquid chalk in anger... only used it in the fingerboard so far... I’ve also commandeered our old dyson and give the mats and carpet a quick once over after a session.
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I had never appreciated how much psyche (and ease of use) there was to be gained from naming the holds and the problems. Highly recommended.
I've got an old whiteboard i got when our old office closed, which is getting put to good use keeping track of problems and progress.
I haven't named the holds but I use the free Open Climbs app to log, name and grade problems.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ionicframework.gradescordova871488 (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ionicframework.gradescordova871488)
The app is pretty basic but useful.
I also keep videos of most problems on my Google drive which is useful for reminding myself of foot beta for power endurance sessions or for repeating hard problems after I've had time to forget them. Also useful for spotting mistakes I didn't know I was making.
Sometimes I haven't bothered to log a problem because I was sure I would remember it still for tomorrow's session. I have usually forgotten them by the next day.
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I've got the Open Climbs app. Basic but functional. It works well but it would be nice to have the option to save one base photo of a board, rather than have to re-upload the same photo each time you log a new problem. Not a real biggie for me, but it might help with their data bill!
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
What's the breakdown for that lot Gav? Managed to get all the wood and fixings for mine for £270 (2.4 x 3.6m) so Im guessing most of the wonga went on holds?
It’s the holds.
Got 5 sheets of good quality exterior ply plus all timber fixings tnuts etc for 300. Double that on holds.
Needed five sheets as doing a small campus and fingerboard rail thing as well plus doors on sides of panel to store pads in etc. Bling tactic.
It outside as well and having had a mini ramp outside for years I know what the weather does to ply so gone high end on all the wood.
Could obviously make all the holds for cheaper but gone down the moonboard route.
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Just ordered timber, ply, fixings, tnuts and 150 holds to get the board sorted.
Fuck me it’s expensive, I could have membership to a wall for three years.
Have a look at the prices of the larger comp style holds you see down the wall :o. I've heard rumours of outrageous (in my head but probably not based on traffic) hold budgets for London walls (per month).
I heard Mile End had an enormous budget as their some kind of community set up where all profits are re-invested (as holds)
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A question for those with outdoor boards, asked only out of curiosity. What are you doing to weatherproof? I would have thought that CLS and ply was not happy if it got wet over and over again. And what are you going to do to make sure you can climb on it in miserable howling wind and rain? Circumstances are fairly unique now where the weather is glorious and people are training, but normally boards only get used when the crags are pisswrapped. If you have an outdoor board already, do you still use it through the winter/wetter periods?
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Mine will be under a balcony so won’t get wet from rain. However it will get damp from general moisture hence going the quality route. Will be painted as well.
Quite sheltered where it’s located but still can’t see it being used a lot in the winter.
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I guess you can paint / treat the bits around the back too.. I’d be concerned if I had a load of nice wooden holds on it though!
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My plan is to have a tarpaulin attached to keep the climbing side as dry as possible, and then aim to have the whole thing before the weather gets too bad in the autumn. Hopefully we can make room in the garage by then and / or have a new house in mind to install it in...
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A question for those with outdoor boards, asked only out of curiosity. What are you doing to weatherproof? I would have thought that CLS and ply was not happy if it got wet over and over again.
I put a little traversing wall on the side of the house using marine grade ply bits of an old wall that was given to me last summer. It's on a south facing wall so dries out pretty quickly, but it's showing no signs of the ply degrading in that time. The cheap T nuts are pretty rusty, but the holds never get changed anyway.
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My plan is to have a tarpaulin attached to keep the climbing side as dry as possible, and then aim to have the whole thing before the weather gets too bad in the autumn. Hopefully we can make room in the garage by then and / or have a new house in mind to install it in...
Yoss, my mate Dan has built one not too dissimilar in size to yours and there's a lot of pics in the board life folder of his ig stories, hopefully you can see them:
https://instagram.com/danstep_55?igshid=hymhnntc67ms
He boxed in the back and felted it, looks a more substantial build than the yonder crew.
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Duma - that’s awesome - thanks. I’ve ordered some timber, but not sure if / when they might actually be able to supply it. Fingers crossed. I think attaching it to posts sunk in the ground makes good sense. Tempted by the felting depending on how the tarp works.
My kids have got SO excited by the bags of holds I keep retrieving on expeditions to the far corner of the garage. Lots of c2001 Holdz, various wooden things bought from someone on here around the same time, and the most obscene Entreprise jug which my 5-year-old could probably sleep on.
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My Experience with skate ramps is that you need to cover any area where water can stand. If you don’t it will tot pretty quickly even if treated.
Also any wood in contact with the ground needs heavily treating.
If you want it to last i would felt the whole back of the board so water runs off. Don’t think you will have an issue with the climbing surface or holds.
I am getting the moonboard ply holds that do concern me a bit with damp getting into the ply.
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Mine will be under a balcony so won’t get wet from rain.
One day last year the dog bumped into the back door and the bottom joist fell off (completely rotten). Before replacing it I had a poke around and quickly noted the entire lean-to was rotten and thus opted to replace it with uPVC. I've been a bit bemused by a puddle I keep getting between the doorframe and the bottom step until I was in there one lovely Lancs winter day watching water literally jet through the air brick horizontally.
I can't remember what kind of design life you get out of treated timber but I think it'll seriously outlast the various bodges people are throwing up, and/or when the planning officer has a word about the new 3.5m high structure right next to the neighbour's fence line.
Another anecdote that may amuse people (or may not), a rather flash Contracts Manager (contract of course) was having a hot-tub delivered/installed. He'd gone well over the top and constructed a mega-shed/man-cave/bar and installed a pretty hefty slab for the tub (which required a decent sized crane to get it in) with a pergola over it, replete with power, TV etc. He'd forgotten to check planning and the levels meant to comply (after his neighbour complained) he had to hack the top off ;D.
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A question for those with outdoor boards, asked only out of curiosity. What are you doing to weatherproof?
I've just stuck a few of these on the back to keep the worst of any rain off https://www.gutta.com/product/pvc-corrugated-sheets/ Mines a temporary affair though (hopefully won't need it by autumn) so not too worried about how long it'll last, and how usable it is in poor weather.
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A question for those with outdoor boards, asked only out of curiosity. What are you doing to weatherproof?
He boxed in the back and felted it, looks a more substantial build than the yonder crew.
I didn't build mine (the chap did an exceptional job), but this is what I've had done. It's also raised off the deck on, and bolted to, paving slabs, with the timber treated and points of contact with the slabs limited.
I then have a tarp which is secured over the top and right the way down over the climbing surface. This does the job nicely but obviously hasn't been properly tested yet. Long term plan is to add an additional roof section similar to Duma's mate and box in the sides with hinged sections that can be folded out of the way.
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
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Yeah agreed, hence not doing it myself!
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
For me it's a temporary board or no climbing through the lockdown. Even if I only get a couple of months use out of it I'd say it's well worth the money and ~5hrs it took to put it together. Im going to make most of the holds so minimal cost.
It'd be cool if I could keep it but it's in a shared garden area that's really not that good a spot. It's permanently in the shade, so ok in summer but even if it was weatherproof it'd be super chilly in winter. I've also got free access to a much better board at work so having a board in the back garden as well feels a bit excessive.
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A question for those with outdoor boards, asked only out of curiosity. What are you doing to weatherproof? I would have thought that CLS and ply was not happy if it got wet over and over again. And what are you going to do to make sure you can climb on it in miserable howling wind and rain? Circumstances are fairly unique now where the weather is glorious and people are training, but normally boards only get used when the crags are pisswrapped. If you have an outdoor board already, do you still use it through the winter/wetter periods?
Painted the ply (all over - front, rear and edges), used treated timber. Timber supports aren't on/in the soil but on concreted in post supports so won't rot from soil contact. Back is covered in bitumous roofing sheets. It's a 45 degree board so it's ok in rain but not if it's howling. I didn't use it much this winter as I had a massive loss of psyche for climbing in October, but did use it last winter. If it's too miserable I'll fingerboard indoors. I've considered a tarp or something to weatherproof it a bit more but never got around to setting anything up - might do when this weather breaks though!
I don't live locally to any rock so getting out is day trips/weekend only. I can get out on the board on an evening - I can't get to a crag.
I do have some wooden holds but only buy ones that are made of a rot-resistant wood (I have some oak crusher holds and have some new sapele Hard Wood Holds that I haven't put up yet).
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Wickes have the choice of: Non-Structural Hardwood Ply, or Structural Softwood.
In the past I've always used birch-veneer marine ply from a timber merchant, so I bit baffled about options!
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
I bought a Pergola to build mine off, which meant i could add clear plastic roofing sheets to the top and keep it pretty dry. Its also built with £100 a sheet marine ply. Ill also paint all the exposed 'treated' timber before winter, and also staple plastic sheeting to the back of the ply to stop any excess water that might sneak through.
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Yeah agreed, hence not doing it myself!
Anything I built would be substandard! Definitely on the Moose school of thought on this one: get the professionals in!
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I think you'd surprise yourself, Jim. I'm a complete clown when it comes to DIY. I can just about use a drill and a saw. With sufficient reading of UKB and an extra pair of hands to help, just about anybody could get something built if they have the confidence to try.
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Wickes have the choice of: Non-Structural Hardwood Ply, or Structural Softwood.
I went for structural softwood as it was what I could get hold of. Seems ok so far. I did manage to rip a big jug off but that's because it was poorly attached (screws were too small), re-attached with bigger screws and all good now.
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I think you'd surprise yourself, Jim. I'm a complete clown when it comes to DIY. I can just about use a drill and a saw. With sufficient reading of UKB and an extra pair of hands to help, just about anybody could get something built if they have the confidence to try.
It's tools as well as skills. I reckon if I'd have bought all the tools the chap who built mine used it would have cost a hell of a lot more! Not to mention all the trips to B&Q I'd have needed (definitely not necessary journeys).
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
What a weird thing to say. The value of a board is vastly inflated while commercial walls are shut, and more so while (most of us) can't go to the crag. Plenty of people will have limited space which they'd be prepared to use for a few months/for a sub optimal board design, but with no intention or desire to keep it once walls reopen.
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Indeed. Do what you like.
I think some people on here would like to argue about the colour of snow at the moment.
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
Hadn’t yours just been taking up a load of space and gathering dust for ages prior to the walls closing?
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I think you'd surprise yourself, Jim. I'm a complete clown when it comes to DIY. I can just about use a drill and a saw. With sufficient reading of UKB and an extra pair of hands to help, just about anybody could get something built if they have the confidence to try.
It's tools as well as skills. I reckon if I'd have bought all the tools the chap who built mine used it would have cost a hell of a lot more! Not to mention all the trips to B&Q I'd have needed (definitely not necessary journeys).
I built mine using a cordless drill/driver and a jigsaw (not one of our toddlers... the power tool type).
I bought three types of screws.. 200 4mm x 40mm (for screwing on holds and screwing ply to the structural timbers, 50 5mm by 100mm for structural stuff (screwing the structural wood together) and 10 6mmx200mm heavy duty screws to mount mine into the roofs joists.. (its an attic board).
Mine was designed so there would be no ply sheet cutting - and minimal cutting of the structural timbers (CLS's).
I have never built anything like this before - and not done any woodwork since school. It went fine! I'd suspect (n=1) that the hardest part are the adaptations you have to make to squeeze it into the space its in. Whether its free standing or screwed to a bit of the house etc.. (or like R-Mans tilting and anchored to the ground with steel pins in concrete!)..
Go for it!
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(https://images.complex.com/complex/image/upload/t_article_image/anzq09j8iw1hqxyjv9nr.jpg)
Its also built with £100 a sheet marine ply. Ill also paint all the exposed 'treated' timber before winter, and also staple plastic sheeting to the back of the ply to stop any excess water that might sneak through.
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
Like others here mine is temporary.
Obvs its there to train on - thats why I built it. But some other reasons - and why it doesnt matter if its temporary.
First I liked the challenge of building it - and it gave me something to think about for a couple of weeks...
Second - and maybe most important - it takes away from my mind the need to go outdoors to climb. It (mentally) takes away that itch to scratch. Its new - I'm still playing with it - not bored yet - so I can put any ideas of getting on rock out of my mind.
Third - it cost me about £350 - maybe £400 all in. If I compare that to my weekly spend on fuel to crags, climbing wall entries, even budget of replacing pads - then thats pretty similar to 10-12 weeks climbing...
(and if I'm really really lucky - I might be able to keep it up for a bit longer!!!!!!!)
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My may or may not end up temporary. I have a fair bit of space, but I also have TCA 5 minute's cycle away and do use that space quite a lot.
ON the other hand, I've (hopefully) made it in a way that I can use some of the space behind (as storage). So, we'll see how it goes, if I get a lot of use out of it it might stay. Wood all ordered now, so just waiting for the text from Wixkes.
:great:
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I've got storage behind for skis / snowboards / ski poles / snowshoes, garage actually looks less messy than before
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(https://images.complex.com/complex/image/upload/t_article_image/anzq09j8iw1hqxyjv9nr.jpg)
Its also built with £100 a sheet marine ply. Ill also paint all the exposed 'treated' timber before winter, and also staple plastic sheeting to the back of the ply to stop any excess water that might sneak through.
If a jobs worth doing ;)
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Indeed. Do what you like.
I think some people on here would like to argue about the colour of snow at the moment.
I think you're wrong.
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I've got storage behind for skis / snowboards / ski poles / snowshoes, garage actually looks less messy than before
Yes! My current ski storage system isn't much use, this'll be loads better.
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I don't get why anyone would plan a temporary board. If it's any good you're going to want to keep it and if you've made a shit temporary construct you're just going to have to go through the faff of taking it down. Build it once, build it right I say.
Hadn’t yours just been taking up a load of space and gathering dust for ages prior to the walls closing?
:lol: I'm quite certain it was used about once a year.
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I am building mine to last, hate the idea of doing something temporarily.
I have been thinking about it for years but didnt think i was motivated enough to justify it. Only one small very average wall 10 mins away that i dont use that much as i am usually in sheffield most of the week and try to go out at the weekend or drive an hour to the valley.
Hoping that its not just about the lock down but more of a "built it and they will come" type of thing that means i will climb loads more. At the least its a good thing to warm up on before heading out.
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Work on locking down during lockdown and it's with you forever.
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At the least its a good thing to warm up on before heading out.
That's one of the main reasons I'd like one
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At the least its a good thing to warm up on before heading out.
That's one of the main reasons I'd like one
Put a super steep one in your basement mate ;D
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Hi everyone, I've got a question that's related to building a board but a bit of a tangent... anyone got experience with using a dehumidifier to make a cellar more habitable? Never used one before so a few basic questions. My understanding is that a dessicant one would be more suitable (especially as I'd want it to still work during winter) - is this right or have I just fallen for advertising spiel? How much do you need to spend to get one that'll actually work (cellar is damp and a bit grotty but not actually under water or anything). Anything else I should look for?
Cheers yo :)
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anyone got experience with using a dehumidifier to make a cellar more habitable? (cellar is damp and a bit grotty but not actually under water or anything).
I would have thought unless the cellar is reasonably airtight you will just be paying money to try and dehumidify the atmosphere. I’d argue heating is likely to dry out the space more effectively, but it’ll have to be on for a reasonable amount of time each day to actually dry out the walls and any wood down there.
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You won’t get it dry without doing a pro job that’s expensive.
A board will be fine though just isolate any bits touching the walls or floor. I have had loads of boards in minging damp cellars that we’re fine to climb on. Mats get bad quickly if you leave them on the floor but boards fine.
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Hi everyone, I've got a question that's related to building a board but a bit of a tangent... anyone got experience with using a dehumidifier to make a cellar more habitable? Never used one before so a few basic questions. My understanding is that a dessicant one would be more suitable (especially as I'd want it to still work during winter) - is this right or have I just fallen for advertising spiel? How much do you need to spend to get one that'll actually work (cellar is damp and a bit grotty but not actually under water or anything). Anything else I should look for?
Cheers yo :)
it might be easy to plumb in an extra radiator in the cellar - I did this in a previous house (radiator that someone had left out for the kindly old travelling scrap man) and it turned a damp room into a decent space.
I have also used a cheap dehumidifier in a damp bedroom to good effect - main thing is remembering to empty the tank, but worked well - sealing the floor/walls with something waterproof (plastic) is another/additional option
edit - just remembered doing a great, but cheap job of turning my now wife's cellar into a decent dry space by lining it with cheap blue damp proof membrane fixed on with wooden batons on the walls and a few inches of cheap polystyrene on the floor (chipboard on top)
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Thanks Ali, Gav, & Lagers.
Perhaps I should have mentioned that we live in a rented house, so installing a radiator is beyond what we could get away with or be worth the investment to us. I think I'll go with carefully lining all the floor and see how it goes, then reconsider the dehumidifier if the holds, timber, or our lungs seem to be suffering.
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Anything you can do to improve airflow will help. If there are airbricks that can be cleaned out - a window that can be opened? Moving air is quite important to stop things going musty/mouldy. A (fan not chemical) dehumidifier will also move the air around. It can end up sucking more damp through the walls (effectively) or maybe not. It will also heat the cellar a little too (in an enclosed space it will warm up the air a tad).
Our cellar (Manchester) that’s lined - is dryer in winter when the radiators on a chunk of the time than in summer when it’s not... I put a bathroom extractor fan on a vent thingy and that has helped - mainly just draws air under the cellar door and through - but keeps it moving. It is very cellar/site specific though.
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A desicent dehumidifier will generally be more efficient than a compressor one below around 18 degrees. As a heat source dehumidifiers have the unusual quirk of being more than 100% efficient as they release the latent heat from moisture in the air: For every litre of water a dehumidifier collects, it releases around 0.6kWh of heat in addition to the waste heat from its power consumption.
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My old board was in a pretty damp cellar, it even flooded a couple of inches a few times. I had a bathroom type fan blowing air from under the stairs/lounge into it, that I had on a timer, to come on when out at work. The dehumidifier was the saving grace though. After research went for a meaco, a bit pricier, but it would regularly suck 15 litres in a day, in a different league to your bog standard dehumidifier. Running at 400 watts it was super cheap. After this I had a carpet on the floor, pads down and never suffered from damp. Leave it off for a week and it became virtually inhospitable... I'm sure Peewee can concur.. I think it made him ill :sick:
The moisture content of air has a huge impact on the energy required to heat it. So it makes total sense to dehumidify before trying to heat.
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Fully agree with the above. Although, I would add that a dehumidifier is an excellent heat source in itself. In a damp place, a typical 700w desicent dehumidifier will produce around 1kw in heat, in addition to the useful side benefit of removing moisture! They are essentially air source heat pumps.
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TomTom, wasbeen, & Probes - thanks for this.
In terms of airflow, the old coal chute is open in one corner so it wouldn't be difficult to get more airflow going by opening the cellar door, even without a fan I think the wind would create a good through-draft doing that. Presumably though, there would be no point in having a dehumidifier running whilst there's a good breeze coming through, as I might as well just have the dehumidifier running outside.
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Exactly. Though it might be worth getting an old desk fan going (even on low) to keep the air circulating.
I spend (normally) 2-3 days a week in Hull a week and have a house there. I leave a dehumidifier going on low there when I’m away and it keeps the air moving and any low level mould forming. (I didn’t get any trickle vents with the double glazing so it’s fairly airtight!)
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Hi all,
I've been climbing for a while on and off but my kids are now taking an interest. Our nearest centre is like 30 min away and I'm looking to build them an outdoor woody. It's just going to be straight up the side of the house for now.
Here is the front planned look https://imgur.com/b9U5W4o (https://imgur.com/b9U5W4o) and the back https://imgur.com/G0sHiQD (https://imgur.com/G0sHiQD). Sizes aren't quite right as it'll be 2440 tall and the frame will be spaced differently possibly, just coming to that.
It's really just going to be the kids using it as it'll only 2.4x2m total, for now.... am I best using bolt holds(then needing to move the frame to accommodate 20cm spacings) or just buying screw-on ones? Next is what sheets are best to use, I'm looking at class 2 ply, 18mm and then painting with zinnser exterior paint. Is there a better material to use? I know marine ply will hold up better but I think this will still delaminate over time?
Still looking into crash mats but will be buying something good since it's my own kids on the wall.
Thanks for any advice.
P.S. I've read through the last 36 pages on here so trying to take the best from each.
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It’s nice to have the option of screw ons and bolt ons- couldn’t you get some t nuts and put a grid of holes on? On the subject of mats, whilst I haven’t used this, Simond stuff is generally decent and this appears good value:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/crashpad-bigblocker-14mx11m-id_8495259.html
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Your joists normal to the floor appear to be in two pieces. This wouldn't be my choice.
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Re holds. I got some of these that are decent (quite small bit that’s fine for kids) and came with Tnuts and bolts.
Garden Games 20 Packs of Premium... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01AGMWL4O?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
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... I'm sure Peewee can concur.. I think it made him ill :sick:
I can, chest wasn't right for weeks!
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This is only temporary, until I've cleared the lock down back log. One product I do have is a box load of is the foot dinks, about the only thing. If you want some, email me through the address on the website or pm and I'll be able to sort. Cheers.
Ha, it's good to know. I'm now sorted with these half balls but i'll keep it in mind for when i try and add some variety to the board. Thanks
Lagerstarfish, that's a clever idea for making jugs out of the handrail. I like it. :thumbsup: Cheers
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I received those eBay half balls and they work great. Feel solid and no signs of them wanting to split when screwing them or in use.
The 1" ones are about perfect for my board. (Kicker + 20 degrees), The 1 1/2" feel a bit too big but would probably work great in 45ish degrees boards i reckon.
Pic to illustrate the 1" hold actual 'size'
(https://i.imgur.com/WWSAwSA.jpg)
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I received those eBay half balls and they work great. Feel solid and no signs of them wanting to split when screwing them or in use.
Second this. I just put a few on my board and had my first session on them. Managed to split one while putting it on but that was my dodgy pilot hole drilling.
Surprisingly usable even at 35 degrees. Hopefully they don't polish up too much.
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I received those eBay half balls and they work great. Feel solid and no signs of them wanting to split when screwing them or in use.
Second this. I just put a few on my board and had my first session on them. Managed to split one while putting it on but that was my dodgy pilot hole drilling.
Surprisingly usable even at 35 degrees. Hopefully they don't polish up too much.
Which size did you get Remus?
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I’ve not dared put them on my 50 yet... Jenga blocks are proving enough of a challenge...
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I received those eBay half balls and they work great. Feel solid and no signs of them wanting to split when screwing them or in use.
Second this. I just put a few on my board and had my first session on them. Managed to split one while putting it on but that was my dodgy pilot hole drilling.
Surprisingly usable even at 35 degrees. Hopefully they don't polish up too much.
Which size did you get Remus?
I got the 1". Just measured and they're 25mm diameter and 12mm depth i.e. they stick out from the board 12mm. I should perhaps clarify that 'surprisingly usable' meant I was surprised I could use them, as they looked impossible out of the pack. Definitely not jugs.
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Your joists normal to the floor appear to be in two pieces. This wouldn't be my choice.
My reasoning for this was just so that I could get screwed into the end of each piece, would I be best having these running the full length with the left to right split?
is it also worth noting that this will sit approx 1ft off the floor as there's decorative brick along the bottom of the house then crap pebbledash for the rest, when/if we ever move out it'll hardly be noticeable I drilled the pebbledash.
It’s nice to have the option of screw ons and bolt ons- couldn’t you get some t nuts and put a grid of holes on? On the subject of mats, whilst I haven’t used this, Simond stuff is generally decent and this appears good value:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/crashpad-bigblocker-14mx11m-id_8495259.html
Yeah I'm more than happy to do 200mm centres and tee nut the whole shebang but wondered if it was a waste of time, looks like ill just go ahead and them as its adds a bit of versatility.
that crash mat looks great, I've been looking around at others and coming in much higher price. was looking at general gymnastic mats that were about this but wasn't sure if they'd be suitable for this, even though its only 2.4m high.
Thanks Both!
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You're asking the joint to do a lot of work rather than the section.
However, based on the UKC article I've no longer got any faith in Engineering/Physics as everything I've been taught is clearly a lie:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_home_climbing_wall_boom_covid-19_constructions-12728?fbclid=IwAR0u77DxzMI4uQxNM7ntXm9NV0hqw-ALtKZunJlv5Oq6krSn3NbY0_JVNN4
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https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_home_climbing_wall_boom_covid-19_constructions-12728?fbclid=IwAR0u77DxzMI4uQxNM7ntXm9NV0hqw-ALtKZunJlv5Oq6krSn3NbY0_JVNN4
"Sponsored climber Ethan Walker has one of the most spacious boards, which he'll be using as a circuit board alongside his partner Sabina"
How does he use his partner as a circuit board?
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I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room. :-\ Jealous? For real.
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I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room. :-\ Jealous? For real.
That reminds me of the article that presented the A as a substandard training facility :???:
Kyra Condie, one of America’s strongest female climbers and a promising Olympic hopeful, trains on a small, greasy wall you might expect to see in a garage. This self-coached climber is making up for a lack of fancy facilities with raw strength and grit.
I wand that one.
https://www.climbing.com/people/the-climbing-q-a-kyra-condie/
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I love the one that’s been built to fold up into a box. Quality thought process.
And I am not asking for an engineers perspective Paul. Talking concepts.
Good idea for an outdoor board design if anyone was thinking about one. Able to keep most of the ply destroying weather off it ( sun as well as rain ).
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I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room. :-\ Jealous? For real.
I think it’s fixed straight onto a wall that’s angled (like TomTom’s board) so while the room’s floor space is similar to that of a British living room you wouldn’t be able to use it as such. Pretty cool use of space but you’ve got to wonder where she’s keeping the hoover these days.
Interesting to rubberneck at the living situations of Insta-celebrity climbers (or indeed just your mates who you only ever see at crags or walls) through Insta these days. Robbie Philips is losing his mind in a flat smaller than mine but with even less training equipment while Ethan Walker’s board appears to be built in the stables of his stately home!
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There are some great looking boards in that ukc article. I'm planning on getting something built when the lockdown restrictions get lifted. Does anyone have a recommendation for simple cheap resin holds good for a 45 board? I have found online some cheap ones from kmz holds sold through alpinetrek and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of whether kmz holds are any good?
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There are some great looking boards in that ukc article. I'm planning on getting something built when the lockdown restrictions get lifted. Does anyone have a recommendation for simple cheap resin holds good for a 45 board? I have found online some cheap ones from kmz holds sold through alpinetrek and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of whether kmz holds are any good?
I think it depends on how strong you are. The Moonboard holds normally function at 40 degrees but most of them would be fine at 45. A lot of them are little finger jugs. But they are quite samey. It's nice to get a set of resins because they're generally quite affordable to buy in a large set and these can be your "base" set. Then you can add to them with nicer wooden screw ons over time.
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Core do decent holds.
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Some moon board holds have a bad rep for being tweaky and hard on the skin. I got some cheap resin Bolt ons from Amazon for about £2 each which is a bargain - and they’re fine - just - err they’re plastic.
For me wood is the way. I’ve got some in the post from Rick Ginns (about £5-6 a hold) and had a dozen crimps from PeeWee (Pete Wilkinson) at £4 a hold. I know Crusher Holds (Paul?) has now cleared his backlog of work too. Also SteveR on here also makes holds.
The great advantage of wood is the above holdmakers can make them to how you want them - pinches, blocks, sidepulls, crimps etc.. and put in enough incut so they work at your board angle (or are sufficiently testing).
Also - at this time giving some ££ to local craftspeople...
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Yes, I meant to come on here and give a plug to Rick Ginns. The crimps were about £4 a go which is amazingly reasonable for something that's been handmade to your specification. 10 holds goes an incredibly long way on a board.
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Thanks fellas. That is kind of what I was thinking and I have ordered some hardwood holds. Moon holds do seem a bit expensive and only seem to be worth it if your going down the moonboard route and want set problems. I'm aiming for something more like nice hair Dan's board but at a more punter level. The kmz holds look suspiciously cheap so i'm only gonna order them if someone has them and can recommend.
I do also agree it would be better to use a local business and i'm doing this for the wood holds and the board. I might see if any of the sheffield walls have any old spare holds they want to sell. If anyone knows of anything please send me a message.
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Core do decent holds.
I have sets of their Font mini jugs and limestone small crimps on a 45, plus two sets of footholds. Can't fault them, and at £3 a hold for the crimps and £4 for the mini jugs they're excellent value. Positive enough to use on a 45 although hard obviously.
Agree with others though that wood is best. Comes in a bit steeper at £4-6 for a small-medium size hold, but much nicer to use.
On a related note, anyone have recommendations for slopers for a 45? I.e. holds that you have to take open handed but aren't blocky pinches.
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Have a word with Beastmaker. If you have a look at my Instagram posts you can see the big chunky Beastmaker holds. That's a result of giving them an idea of how shit I was and asking for some pinches and slopes with a couple of crimps added in. The one in the top left is very much a pinch and there are a couple in the middle next to the Sharknado hold (the big flatty/sloper in the middle) which are crimps, but everything else on there could just as easily be a sloper if you profiled the bottom side to be less thumbable. The only issue with the Beastmaker holds is that they're pricey and they take up quite a lot of space because they're so big.
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Ah okay, thanks Will. Not sure if they're still making holds as they're off the website. Definitely seems to up the price per hold as soon as you move away from crimps!
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I have found you can get away with making slopers from soft wood (e.g. 2x4). They are pretty quick to shape with a multi tool, or belt sander. It is best to use big diameter screws to mount then otherwise they tend to pull through.
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Softwood will be fine for a home board. If you can’t get holds or costs an issue you can easily make up a load of simple holds in a day from off cuts without any fancy tools.
I am sure Paul will be along in a minute to point out my rose tinted specs but most if not all of the boards around in the 80s and 90s were made from softwood and did the job. A home wall gets so little use compared to a commercial so having hardwood just isn’t necessary
If you can get bits of hardwood use them for footholds as that’s where you get issues.
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I've got a load of pinches made from banister rail, work pretty well, you really need to crank them down hard to avoid spinning though. I've put hex head bolts into them now which have embedded into the wood, and i just turn the whole thing to tighten it.
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A little off topic but I have some 2x4 left over from building my garage board and am planning to build a pull up bar at the end of my lawn. Basically digging two holes for each 2x4 vertical and filling them with concrete. Anyone ever done anything like this before and know how deep I need the holes so it doesn't instantly fall over? Or have any other tips? My 2x4 is 3m long so was hoping for something like 60-80cm holes and a 2.2-2.4m bar height.
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A little off topic but I have some 2x4 left over from building my garage board and am planning to build a pull up bar at the end of my lawn. Basically digging two holes for each 2x4 vertical and filling them with concrete. Anyone ever done anything like this before and know how deep I need the holes so it doesn't instantly fall over? Or have any other tips? My 2x4 is 3m long so was hoping for something like 60-80cm holes and a 2.2-2.4m bar height.
Im not an engineer but 60-80cm sounds like plenty, especially if you're generous with the concrete. I had to dig out some concreted fence posts that were down to ~30cm and that was very hard work.
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Assuming the wood is untreated then the bottoms will rot pretty quick. Soaking the ends in (used) motor oil for a few days will help a lot. Wood permitting, I would be tempted to double up on the timbers in each hole, arranged to make a L-section. If you only have enough wood for one in each hole, then have the 4inch side normal to the board and add some bracing between the uprights. 60-80cm deep sounds perfect. It will be a bit wobbly bit it won't break (for a while).
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Its bloody hard work digging down to 80cm!!
+1 for the rotting issue too (look how long fence posts last - ie not long - and they're treated)...
If this is a temporary (ish) lockdown feature - I'd be tempted to make it freestanding with two tethers for each pole (static line?). Some sort of ground anchor/angle iron bashed into the ground for each tether... section of ply under each foot to stop it sinking etc...
Of course it all depends what you've got lying around etc....
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Cheers for all the replies. My board has used up the part of the garage with decent head height, hence the outdoor bar. The board hopefully isn't going anywhere so not aiming for anything too temporary. Maybe I need to rethink my materials, was thinking 2x4 because it's what I have lying around but may be false economy if it is just going to rot away. And agreed, 60-80cm depth would be a challenge!
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There's guidance (again for hoardings) that gives a really simple method (originally for lampposts if anyone cares) for post-in-hole foundations; it's a function of the foundation dia., depth and the ground (simplified to poor, average and good). Depth is ^3 (so deeper is far better than making it fatter).
Any outward (or lateral) force you're applying to the bar (hopefully you don't do Crossfit pullups?) is applied like a cantilever. You'd be better of with square posts IMO.
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Thanks for the replies regarding slopers. Ended up finding these on Hardwood Holds so giving them a go:
https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p166/Board_Slopers.html
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Damn. Now I want some.
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You can never have too many holds...
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They look lovely!
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We had (semi) confirmation re our timber order this week so fingers crossed construction will start soonish - yay!
Have UK peeps lined up for some new smaller wooden holds, but wondered if anyone have any good / bad experiences of Euroholds?
Daughter wants some nu-skool chunky sloper / volume action and their ones seem relatively good value. They also have some nice looking 20cm wood domes...
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Euroholds?
I don't think they're in the UK, so delivery might take a while? No idea how international shipping is doing tbh. Sure I saw a comment somewhere saying they were taking weeks for an order.
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Yeah, I think they’re in Spain.
We can start off with my early 2000s Holdz and various wooden things, and then add the big blobs later.
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European shipping seems to be better than domestic currently... Had an order from Holland delivered in 2 days and still awaiting a parcel from the UK ordered on the same day. Possibly just lucky and depends upon which depots your parcel has to pass through, I wouldn't write off ordering something from continental Europe though based on my experience last week.
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We had (semi) confirmation re our timber order this week so fingers crossed construction will start soonish - yay!
Have UK peeps lined up for some new smaller wooden holds, but wondered if anyone have any good / bad experiences of Euroholds?
Daughter wants some nu-skool chunky sloper / volume action and their ones seem relatively good value. They also have some nice looking 20cm wood domes...
I bought from them. Arrived fine and quick. Wood is pretty rough on the jugs I purchased but fine for what I wanted. Also bought some footholds from them.
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(https://i.imgur.com/fSs5H3v.jpg)
Got boards on mine last night, holds due tomorrow
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💪🏻 Looks like a 40 there FBSF2?
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Pleased with today's progress. Finally got a call from Wickes yesterday, saying the C16 planed edge wood was out of stock, but I could have treated. Hmm, ok. Only been waiting 10 days. Come tomorrow they say. Drive 35 mins to Wickes, shut Sunday. Cunts.
Went round the back, heard some music. Shouted, no one came. Gate open. Hmm, I'll see if the store-man is in. Wander round. Young guy doesn't seem to know how to handle a random guy appearing on a Sunday. Supervisor turns. "What are you doing here? How did you get in, we're closed, you are breaking and entering and I need to ask you to leave sir" :lol:
Right, well, so, your colleague phoned YESTERDAY to say our stuff would be ready by 9am TOMORROW. Not MONDAY. Can we have it pleaser. Oh, well, err, it's Sunday. "yes, but then I'll need to drive back tomorrow, can you not just cut down another trip by letting us have it today? I'm ever so sorry about my intrusion through your open gate"...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vMysiJZtAw3NHF9G_jCHmkg7zrvNmpxca7qUjFLykO-s3zONh8pWELInx_EQMaZn9c5mfZSc_-06JqN74bprB829F88Ve0U7mAyZeQK2KlHGAoTxTS-E92gBgxm0jFSJs0GgeehZGcQek3vQ6gW7sHY3jX829u6lACA7NS8A2ceC_6CvmoVgYosHlRg_en3lE5z6M6opgdqtQY1pQau3NU112UTheNTXqDihfUpKxV3z9Z9opU0eMlfw-p-C4az9A1-q2uKrLTKVoCyLyvxibcZG0JzKCORyWlScsRtWnOcmUrCsqRB2dQhL1fIy1tjHqi3PMwlOkZsse6gskYhFzx2EsfAtuhV7vWW_ZI2BuDNzEOBy82vsI0zmfIcUR7gHTM-odyaBwSCTYhNj2j_QTEkDQzfjsiOVIIwn-WTB_wwvS579T2xnoCxwIXJ6U6XLYoGz1GPHKwc81dn-sG42oKr_d3Es81vIqU_eCfINh23MoFaOQNEpRAUyIHKch4pc68QPNbehjbgn0QK5ZZSqppVCTgjPHrZT9BkROvDISnhNMxfjNloZvefxntJgOZYXF3LcflGegkuUZMMJM7ADFlxpcc1I_SE1E3yww1AuAYv0N4Hd9VTscd41-Z2fRyYjOIIcja-GR7Z3KULxZCacL58Pq-cFP7Ai-go73N-WRD22852HKJIp_F0sgAGu=w678-h903-no)
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That looks ace.
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Superb. Great to have all that height to work with!
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Walls are looking great!
Re the Euroholds, I am pretty sure it is their wooden campus rungs up in the Glasgow TCA propstore and I think they are really nice.
Bradders - pretty sure I have a couple of Hardwood Holds similar to those on my board and again are nice. Slopiest thing I have are resin "dome/ ball" type holds which I find difficult and am always tempted to latch on the thumb.
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💪🏻 Looks like a 40 there FBSF2?
Think its 45deg, got some plywood jugs on last night for first ascent just as it started raining! Had to limit it to vertical height 2.4m as you land in a hedge if its any bigger and you can see it from a path so was aware of planning restrictions of temporary structures in my area!
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(https://i.imgur.com/7y22MQd.jpg)
Where can i buy those support branches?
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😂 😂
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😂 😂
Superb. I hope those were there to wind up PaulB :)
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I was going to ask if those were load bearing twigs
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Superb. I hope those were there to wind up PaulB :)
Like I said, I've had a crisis of faith. OSB FTW is my new motto.
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I was going to ask if those were load bearing twigs
Now I know the S in RSJ stands for sapling 😂
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Man you should of seen the stuff we built in the 80's, ramshackle bodged and for a large part stolen materials. Paul B would of had kittens over the supporting structures. Also fetid cellars were not conducive to maintaining lung function, don't know about c-19 but a session in my old ecclesall rd cellar would leave me wheezing like a 90 year old
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I'm nearly done, and my two bits of 20 x 200 have arrived for the crack machine! We've got the bottom two sheets of ply in place, but the top one is going to be tricky to fit, being 2m up and weighing a fair bit. Any tips? We're thinking of fixing some cord somewhere just above the centre of gravity, and hoisting it most of the way into place. Any better ideas?
Oh, and really, REALLY try to avoid Wickes for ply. My god this stuff is so shockingly bad quality. The edges aren't even close to straight, there are huge holds and tonnes of filler.
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I used 2 ratchet straps slung from the top of the board, but my distance was a lot less. Lifting by rope is a sensible idea, could use a jumar if you have one? Or even a gri gri?
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I'm nearly done, and my two bits of 20 x 200 have arrived for the crack machine! We've got the bottom two sheets of ply in place, but the top one is going to be tricky to fit, being 2m up and weighing a fair bit. Any tips? We're thinking of fixing some cord somewhere just above the centre of gravity, and hoisting it most of the way into place. Any better ideas?
That's how I put mine up. I had two gri-gris & pulleys / prussics rigged from above in a 3/1 mechanical advantage. You might get away with just grigris if you're strong or there's two of you.
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I saw someone had fitted a few lugs on the in-situ board so that you can manhandle the plywood into place then temporarily have the board supported at the bottom while you fix it.
I don't know if you've t-nutted but a jug or so makes it a lot easier.
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i had a thin sling through 2 t nut holes
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Done, just drilled 2 x 20mm holes, knotted a rope through the holes, up to pulley/microtrx. Was going to get the lass to help, but managed it. Now it's hold making time! Reckon a some systems esque holds plus a smattering of random will work well to keep it I testing. Finally got a use for that bucket of old hardwood chair legs I've been hoarding!
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If you're using timber to join the panels together, put these on the bottom of the top panel rather than the top of the last panel. You should be able to then lift the board up flat face down, hook the timbers onto top of last panel and walk the panel up the step ladder as close to the middle as you can. It's Ok alone, but easier with a friend, plus anpther hop up or chair. If you work out where the timber is behind, you can start a screw off in panel before you start, so it's easier to drive it in while you're supporting the panel with other hand.
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I build mine top down :D
Put in some screws half way in where the bottom of the board is due to go - lifted up the board so it rested on top of the screws (held by the lip of the screw head - and shoved the board into place with my shoulder and screwed it in. Pilot holes with screws half in so I didnt have to fiddle. That was on a 53 degree overhang too! Quite a work out by the time it was done!
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The Kiwi way. Maybe Paul would like to comment!
https://youtu.be/5HtnXv5vq5Y
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If anyone is putting in an order to Core give me a shout. I’d like some of their foot dinks but £10 postage seems a bit much and I’d gladly chip in and split postage in a bigger order if anyone is.
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We found that sticking a few jugs upside down on the ply on really helped. Basically put some very thin screws in the corners of the ply so the tips just poked through enough to grip the uprights then a couple of jugs at the bottom, a couple at the top and we could lift it into place and then the bite of the screws was enough for me to whack in the four corners whilst Abby held it up and then pop in full size screws afterwards at my leisure.
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If these are of any interest, they were made in error. Apologies if this is seen as promo, only posting as a heads up to help out the desperates :weakbench: before they're snapped up. 2sets screw fix only.
http://crusherholds.co.uk/wooden-climbing-holds/crusher-system-board-holds-5
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Frames are up for my board. 40 degree mini moon-board. 15 rows of holds. Fingerboard bit on the side and doors with storage for mats behind it. Just the boards to go on.
6-7 hours work so far and I guess 4-5 to finish it.
Don’t know how to put pics on here so here’s a link to my insta page.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_kp6XeDDnW/?igshid=mpdksr9jai9q
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Fixing plywood, in the past I've fixed a small piece of ply or timber top centre of bottom board sticking up say10mm then lift second panel up and slot it in to this. Will support board enough to slam some screws in.
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Outside board builders, what are you using to treat the exposed timber? Not practical for me to cover the whole thing with tarp or felt and the boards will be removable and stored undercover so really only need to do the frame. It's made of pressure treated 2x4 with bits of ply reinforcing the joints.
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I lashed on 2/3 coats of this (https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-treatment-clear-5ltr/36237) stuff. Did wear a mask but doesn't seem too nasty/smelly. goes on easily and soaks in reassuringly well.
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Outside board builders, what are you using to treat the exposed timber? Not practical for me to cover the whole thing with tarp or felt and the boards will be removable and stored undercover so really only need to do the frame. It's made of pressure treated 2x4 with bits of ply reinforcing the joints.
I painted my timbers (pressure treated) with decking paint and oiled the boards with danish oil ( 3 coats).
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Hi Dan!
Gone for the screw fix stuff as it was in stock for collection. Should be OK as its on stone rather than soil/grass, and hopefully doesn't have to last too long!
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Just as well we don’t have termites over here - my friend in Australia has to pour old engine oil over the base of his fence posts every year to stop the mites getting them.
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I haven't been bothering T-Nutting, just using 2 x 4.5mm screws. But for some of my bigger jugs I'm going to install, I reckon it might be wise. Had some m6 kicking around, but snapped it with the impact driver, so I'm thinking M10.
How long a bolt would I need? obvs 18mm ply + whatever thickness of wood is thought necessary (I'll bore the hold so I don;t need massive bolt). But that't the question, should I be leaving 30mm of wood, 40mm? (i.e 50mm M10, or 60mm M10?)
Also, where's the best place to buy T-Nuts and Bolts? Bolts are fairly cheap on accu.com, but T-nuts are well pricey. Can Google, but one of you might have found the place already.
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I bought mine from Core as I wanted the type that pins with two small screws rather than the hammer in/fall out variety.
50m M10 is pretty standard isn't it?
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As an alternative you could just use a large screw plus a washer. It's doing well for all the big holds on mine. 5 or 6mm screws plus M8 washers (I think). Have to put screws in next to the holds to stop spinners but think you have to do that anyway. Guess it depends if you think you're going to want to reset constantly.
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I would have a think about the shape of the bored out hole that you will create for the bolt. if its a diagonal finish I'd go for M10 "martini" bolts which take a 6mm hex bit. If you can make a flat bottomed bolt hole I'd go for cap headed M10 bolts which take an 8mm hex bit.
Core can supply either of these but note when ordering that martini are measured by their ENTIRE length whereas cap heads are measured without the head.
Personally I'd just screw them on where poss though tbh. as Bradders suggests
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Panels on, finger board up, just cosmetics, side doors and footboard to go. Holds arriving this week hopefully.
So excited to have this at home.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_sIHiRjAQo/?igshid=ljvp9mb5upn0
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Looks great Gav!
We've been clearing out the cellar today for when we can get some wood delivered. I'm sure some of the junk that was in there is as old as the (Sheffield Victorian terrace) house
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Noticed the chat re naming holds in the IMPACT video a few pages back. Have many bothered naming holds and recording problems etc on their home board? Is it worth doing?
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God - not names.. but I do record better ones on the open-climb app.
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Hadn`t come across that - will give it a whirl!
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Noticed the chat re naming holds in the IMPACT video a few pages back. Have many bothered naming holds and recording problems etc on their home board? Is it worth doing?
Definitely can't be arsed naming holds, but problems are fun to name. I just mark them up in the Sketch app and store the image on my phone. I'd forget them all otherwise and makes it easier to track.
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I've numbered my holds and have written down lots of problems over the years. None of this app nonsense, just a notebook I found in the Tesco back to school sale that was called 'Campus Notebook' (I couldn't resist it). I normally name them based on random things that happen the day I do them (e.g . i did Chaser the day the dog ran off after a deer), as a reminder of when I did it and obviously to differentiate from the others. It means I now have a big selection of problems to try without having to spend ages coming up with something new each session and obviously mates can try each others problems (in non-lockdown times, obvs).
The downside of this is that it probably makes me less inclined to strip and reset because I've got quite attached to some of my classics.
However, I tend to have an ongoing shuffling of holds as over time I've realised there are some I unconsciously avoid so once I realise this I change them for something different. Then it's been fun repeating old classics with the odd new hold, invariably making them harder.
Surely any board needs some method of being able to record the problems?
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Another vote for the openclimb app from me. Also spoke to the developers via email and they are happy for you to put your gym location pin in the sea/middle of a local park if you would rather not let everyone know where your home board is.
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I’ve dabbled with the OpenClimb app but it’s a bit clunky, I’m currently trying the “Eat Spray Love” app (terrible name...)
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I also use Open-climb and have talked a bit with the developer. It is only basic because he does it in his free time but if there are features that you want that aren't too much work for him to add, he is happy to add them.
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Cheers all. Will give the open climb app a go first off with other suggestions noted. I will be sure to grade them badly as is the trend. Can see the advantage of a book Gaz - I have several notebooks bought to use as a "training diary" that have only seen 2 entries and could be re-purposed :lol:. I also tend to tinker with holds fairly regularly if there are ones I notice I`m not using. Like the idea of having classics :2thumbsup:
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I’ve dabbled with the OpenClimb app but it’s a bit clunky, I’m currently trying the “Eat Spray Love” app (terrible name...)
Have just downloaded Eat Spray Love to try.
First impressions: Looks like it's probably a bit better than Open-climb overall.
Advantages over Open-climb:
1) you can save a photo in the app so you don't have to keep navigating to an old photo when adding problems
2) Different coloured tags for holds. I ignored their suggestions and use blue for left hand, pink for right hand. You can also number holds, but only in blue.
3) Better filter options than open-climb, should be better for queueing problems of the right grade range for power endurance sessions
4) Room to add more notes on a problem and option for others to comment on problems (more useful for commercial walls)
5) Highlights the holds used without you having to select the problem
Disadvantages:
1) The circles are in such thick pen that it completely obliterates my footholds. Makes it hard to see which foothold is in if I specify feet. If they fix this, it would be the clear winner of the 2 apps for me.
2) How long is it going to be before I stop trying to use 2 fingers to zoom in/out?
3) V grades :spank:
4) The name
I'll try them both for a bit but I think I might switch to Spray.
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3) V grades :spank:
"did not meet our criteria for testing"
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Noticed the chat re naming holds in the IMPACT video a few pages back. Have many bothered naming holds and recording problems etc on their home board? Is it worth doing?
Personally I quite like naming holds, it seems to bring out the child in me though as I can't resist giving them slightly lewd names which make me laugh when Im putting problems together. I tend to just do it as Im making up problems so it's not too boring i.e. if I make up a problem that has an unnamed hold I'll name the hold then so I can write it down. Can't be bothered making up names for footholds so I just use a system for them e.g. d1, d2, d3 for little dome footholds.
On the app front, I've used this before on another board https://www.getstokt.com/ It's pretty decent but does cost (about £50 for a normal home board) as they mark all the holds up for you. It lets you log what problems you've done as well as recording them which is cool.
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3) V grades :spank:
"did not meet our criteria for testing"
On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
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I’ve not... happy to remember what’s hard or not.
Though I can imagine with a larger board and over longer time it would make sense. Even if it were just relative.
happy with the open climb app tbh - my boards not that large so the size of the pics/holds etc.. all works for me fine.
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Naming holds and problems. I've done this both ways. My board has had two phases: the honeymoon period and the restoration. During the honeymoon period a couple of friends who live locally would come over and we'd play about on it. A coordinate system was used and problems were written out in an old notebook without names or grades, just a tick when they'd been done. Fast forward two children and a load of prams, balance bikes, and other detritus had accumulated under the board and psyche was a bit thin on the ground.
Then lockdown and the Restoration of the Psyche. I got that OpenClimb app, which has some issues but it's OK. I started naming the holds which was something I'd always meant to do but never got round to, and started naming the problems. I don't know if it's because this is the only climbing on offer, or if it's because the names add a new dimension to things, but I'm now pretty psyched for the board. I also put grades on things once they've been done. The top grade thus far is 7A but it's all meaningless really - it's more so that if anybody comes to play in future they'll have an idea of which problems are harder/easier than others.
Logging things visually in an app is much better than coordinates - it's just easier to use. Naming holds leads to obvious combinations which can add fun to the setting. It's so much easier to get psyched for something with a name. You don't have to name all the holds and all at once. Just keep a marker pen near the board and when inspiration hits you, mark it on.
Let me think. The worst hold on the board is called Jug. There's another pretty bad one called Howl. I've not even contemplated the rancidity that would be Jug Howl. What else is there? There's a horn shaped hold (the worst excess of the Moonboard's tweaky holds) called Shark. Maybe I should link Shark into Strike to make Shark Strike? The juggiest hold on the board is named Ben in honour of our very own Footwork.
etc etc etc
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On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards?
Yes, but it's all contextual within the board itself. I don't think that a board 7B would relate to any 7B outside! It helps to separate out the problems on the board so we have a better idea of what's easier and what isn't.
Although to be fair, all the problems used to be written in a damp notebook with no grades which I got irritated with. I didn't think it worked particularly well when more than one person was using the board eithger. So I put together a website (akin to OpenClimb but with the features it didn't include and a persistent picture of the board) and it just felt natural to add an option for a grade on it along with comments for rules etc. Been using the site for about a year now, and things gradually get given grades, either as new problems or retrospectively.
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Problem names are a big part of the fun of climbing on a board for me, and why I would never want a systems board. I just name things with whatever first springs to mind when setting the problem, or where things have inspired them. For example, hardest project atm is called Mockery, as it's a) reminiscent of Austrian Mock, the classic problem on the Depot Pudsey 50, and b) been shutting me down for weeks.
I had a go at grading everything the other day but it bears no relevance to reality, only helpful to give a rough guide to where things are relative to one another for future reference. I also keep track of the intensity of sessions and the grade is important for that, but only in terms of monitoring consistently over time (I.e. it's irrelevant how hard things actually are, as long as the scale is consistent). I doubt many others are this anal about things though...
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3) V grades :spank:
"did not meet our criteria for testing"
On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
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I don't name holds, though I can see why you might. My board is symmetrical and the holds are generally fairly basic shapes and non-unique so every hold has at least one twin. I my board was non-symmetrical and I either had made the holds or they were more varied then I can see how naming the holds would be a good aid to remembering problems and to creativity with problems.
I didn't used to name problems either, or grade them, but then I organised a BBQ and board session (one of the advantages of a garden board) where there were lots of people who'd not climbed on the board before and decided I needed to document the problems and name & grade them so that everyone could easily find some problems to try without me having to point them at something (as I was doing the BBQ). Ending up drawing the board and holds in Visio and making a .pdf of problems that I sent to everyone beforehand. It worked quite well and apparently the grading was about right, or at least made sense. Since then I tend to name and grade things, though not religiously.
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3) V grades :spank:
"did not meet our criteria for testing"
But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
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But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
Nothing. Keeps the system simple and dispels any illusion that board grades make sense :devil-smiley:
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I've got whiteboard in the garage with descriptions and grades of problems. Slowly building up the list, and i tick them when i do them / repeat them to make sure there aren't any i forget / avoid to do fairly regularly.
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3) V grades :spank:
"did not meet our criteria for testing"
But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
This could be one of the more pathetic attempts at using the quote function.
Obviously I meant to just say but what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
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But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
Nothing. Keeps the system simple and dispels any illusion that board grades make sense :devil-smiley:
So your dispensing with one illusion but embracing another if you're warming up on "mediums" which aren't medium for you anymore ;)
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I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
Back to the Gill system (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Gill_(climber)#Grading_system_for_bouldering)!
In a moment of even greater than usual pretentiousness, I once named holds on a board after classical composers. It was always reassuring to hit Bach whereas Boulez was particularly hard to grasp...
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But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
Nothing. Keeps the system simple and dispels any illusion that board grades make sense :devil-smiley:
So your dispensing with one illusion but embracing another if you're warming up on "mediums" which aren't medium for you anymore ;)
But if the illusion is that board grades make sense, and that is being dispensed with, then the only take away is that the grades don't really tell you anything, your warm ups are a lie and life is meaningless #logic
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If I have no grades - no one can downgrade them! 😃
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I reckon they're soft touch.
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So you’re dispensing with one illusion but embracing another if you're warming up on "mediums" which aren't medium for you anymore ;)
In my board experience the warm ups always stay warm ups, and the mediums always stay mediums (never feel easy but become more reliable), but the ‘hard’ category just expands and expands.
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Back to the Gill system (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Gill_(climber)#Grading_system_for_bouldering)!
In a moment of even greater than usual pretentiousness, I once named holds on a board after classical composers. It was always reassuring to hit Bach whereas Boulez was particularly hard to grasp...
[/quote]
Bravo. Fortissimo! :clap2: :boohoo:
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So you’re dispensing with one illusion but embracing another if you're warming up on "mediums" which aren't medium for you anymore ;)
In my board experience the warm ups always stay warm ups, and the mediums always stay mediums (never feel easy but become more reliable), but the ‘hard’ category just expands and expands.
Maybe that's the case when you start on a board when already very proficient? I remember barely being able to pull onto the Depot 50 and getting to the top being a major achievement, and whereas nowadays I'll warm up on the projects I had back then.
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I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
I've used this system for the last 10 years on my board, worked well.
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For those naming holds, are you writing on the hold or the board? And if its the board do you never reset?
On another note, rginns oak set I ordered are lovely, highly recommended! Tweaked the incut angles to suit my board too, great service. Get sone here: https://www.strongholds.co.uk/
Got a few bits from core too, less than a week from order to delivery. Now the boards usable I reckon we'll be let out next week...
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For those naming holds, are you writing on the hold or the board? And if its the board do you never reset?
No comment?
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On board. Sample: ploop, tubs, splodge, toubib, Geoffrey, (and in sequence) albino - monkey - boy.
This is what you get when your child names your holds.
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I've been writing on the board itself rather than the holds. I've got a mix of wood and resin holds, plus some wooden holds where writing wouldnt show up that well.
If I end up resetting for some reason I was thinking I'd get the sander out and sand off the names.
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I painted my board with blackboard paint a couple of years back which is pretty useful for marking up hold/problems with a selection of coloured chalk pens. I also think it makes it look quite cool!
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I've seen folk who have done that with blackboard chalk too, great idea. I just mark directly on the holds with IKEA coloured chalk and symbols (nicked from kids). Might not work if you have wooden holds though!
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I`m trying out the app thing currently as plan a reset soon and seems less hassle, so haven`t named holds. I think if I do end up naming I would do it on the holds and keep it simple eg just number the holds from different companies (eg BM1, BM2...C1, C2...HWH1.... etc).
The subject of painting the board came up a few pages ago but only briefly. My board isnt painted currently but thinking of it when I do reset. Have most people painted? Some have mentioned holds sticking to the paint, is there a specific type of paint to use?
Reason thinking of painting is might brighten the garage up a bit - doesn`t have great lighting and visibility poor in winter evenings, so wouldn`t go for blackboard paint.
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Blackboard paint isn't just black btw. It's a type of textured paint. You could paint white and use coloured chalk.
Something that's suprised me, turns out (IMO) I'm pretty good at setting problems using holds; I much prefer this to making stuff up. Got some great ones that are keeping me occupied at just the right level of difficulty. T nuts in this respect are a proper winner, can tweak hold sizes and angles to suit.
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I`m trying out the app thing currently as plan a reset soon and seems less hassle, so haven`t named holds. I think if I do end up naming I would do it on the holds and keep it simple eg just number the holds from different companies (eg BM1, BM2...C1, C2...HWH1.... etc).
The subject of painting the board came up a few pages ago but only briefly. My board isnt painted currently but thinking of it when I do reset. Have most people painted? Some have mentioned holds sticking to the paint, is there a specific type of paint to use?
Reason thinking of painting is might brighten the garage up a bit - doesn`t have great lighting and visibility poor in winter evenings, so wouldn`t go for blackboard paint.
Get one of these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/twin-5ft-led-batten-white-45w-4000lm/5440r
Best money I've spent in the garage - low energy, even, bright but soft light. Very easy to wire in too.
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Had wondered about replacing the bulb light with one of those. Cheers for the suggestion will check it out.
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What a fun day shaping! My first set of holds were "functional" at best. I thought they were alright for a first go, but they were all too aggressive - even the "jugs". After a session I had achey joints.
Inspired by Rginns beautiful hardwood holds linked above on strongholds, I decided to let my creativity go wild (well, as far as it can for an engineer - basically copying his as best I could).
Only made three more (was busy making some shelves and a towel rail, but...man...what an improvement!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yS3UAX3EsIYePmiW8UOHEI_u4ExLqvPib1xM76RyHo-DOPm19uDtnwDX-adMVWpYoK7P2sfw6z5IVmVZZz8xYDeYLKbwWy5pdrwGX4G4psjUOyAY0cj1UXMO7IEDPXnPn7pP1499SkmluVR_z3sb7Y7sgnMxo_TgfZUIuy8OTapqdOYAR4IDZDCXakgNz7M0sjFczLH0dl2HZkzPFztDitZW2kMYXRl-ZdcpeSVvm63Llg8gJvBvwcKjiia7LoVZxaGks5KuDu1miAex5J3osfka76tMeOxf09745wDBHYHLtcfl3mUmf2DghlbqUK-dBGpApUE6bljUo-_y5VbIEYXQ-vrsiKiopF5f3JWBC9cXaKwwZKz961tG5QglO0i1WTAuEuKYN-DhmGiKoHmyLmJNJP2W0ymBJlu4E55P6fqc3n6i0kipaCc7MeOic0ss1wpxWtA8uQR6HgfG76GeabPATjVc25vrNYd7Y_wCpRA1FhKf5V-BwLKl5cMo-igpKYF0uA7cKkdRnGMNYyxhc4MGTw3l3zzECKGagE8kTbmO2sf8QRCwQx3VUZ8t5JYhAkhT340eVvQHzbUOf8-ifoFCi4Z4y296dKAHbGyq2sZvwt0WgItLyEwWI_5W1Nc-GcsHL2zOrLjNgD9NEqbYHunwyY84JrAu3FKzRqKBCRY-4tgFEg-2XFQzkbjk=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KBJQYClt9bhkWzKzLHuozTa7cXSghpCJxqfjS7sYQ5f9btE2eFyvtp0LmuGKtPrWD7g8SRiKd2T6lfWXmUPKj2zODx7PoNM2AOZL3hRWXdpwdqbazcjZPA81uyjsUKk4lnp10RvlDHFlRMRdIBTnMlXULBfN8KkJgKWn4Zg_M_42_a-Ng2N6Tar_jEP5_4BQpWrz15agvLWb6B8EFAHNZFBCc6AJWK3stwOk_2GLwRfffjFOdDDctaAklHH3AeLq-qA977Msp9WGiODZ3Yz6zKWxOnc0Nqn-x9wGneL4TW9lZ-h_vYnIXrgQL20eq-brVRCqFTCfEuC0YK6OhTCdyHe5LOXFnlAQ7S1JWM5jZsv8ZJVnGcX3mgAZXAc0oT_l-y_shPv1DU73D5eBaYiwcDBGRA43OdsQqJ2A3TLbwnLWX7aw16JJjeAbkMiTHBTcJYyKhUUi28OfSm8TjuFopvr1aIvyn8D2oei6Cu25vW9tEtNOZ3J3ktgwiA0HFj6souqzvxTm6c-CbgUCFEN6j7Mazh9_kraenT3dY3ndyXS0DOMPu-kh-DrWRdvJGArCz6uKDgSQkXKxQ7cZz4qh2TIvKggWppkyEyBxybEFA2FbpxByXzVqH4oIZHB1Fz6hDn8gpsjoJ5uPs_77FbjAb78dyRqWnyps7d8tYfV5OJK7YlBLve4TBa0HuQ6H=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cHFHvDTivVEyUpEpBCJdHRyTOiYNiw4P7mANGpYETWtC3UhZx9UdReXBeTENNU_ZgR313RFw-pjbfWs5RWQVpNTFwLqt4DE00Hfd4wZXpOo6NI05AeHiXLIDGCtLHtoWGJyqegKNcQNimC0ul7MYYFg6E2AsLtbVcAhS2ukwsn8pl25Vd6WJtUXDdObPBvbCPiAF1QUuMcd-zAvBrbgXcyTtGcIlJvRqnSKP9AFU7T7MwuVLNBz26bObCNHwEQ21-v-s6VgiKhd6N68ryzsQ93fE1AqCOmWBMBxCd1gdAEu8Abvl55yUTWlbwfzvopKprmSXb43w73vvelOeACqEEn0wzSYamIr9qqwT9PgEyfHhciAzUCv6JXSBNvPqguVO4Qm0bOffXW521P_yY9n6ws-XKcTX51vCx27CcG6T3eRoSqXTW1gTqqjcSlrRxa_C9SLJcbqzUchplUTLf1kdpAO6KN8ha3csKsUypFWbMFf6nHlGuN7CVeRTMuWJy9bzu7buJhWMD1oQxCA0eT9dqZM2Ues4X1MZ9HKh5LIAObEXjlxgNxODPmEyKvCnecU3lUXx4qaCG_ybkXcZLRzrjivRqrEeCm5Hdac6CODAfoaLnYsfzji8twc_sqZ8pFlZuq3Rm7cds7w1k6ltN4MdRk06yo6kcMaO1MgSlghYruyw0fYEWDVrEQyhysBS=w708-h943-no?authuser=0)
I think I may actually enjoy the shaping as much as the climbing! I can also vouch for how long it takes, so if you think handmade hardwood holds are pricey, they're really not considering the effort that goes in!
I'm now going to have to re-shape all the first batch.
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Links bust
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3fQtqb0qHAYXiODSw_8IxrkEHLA2qBB42j4miPBkl1tjPHnK3i_V-a4KbIyFn6YsYUXmJK109Cb1HYEmb0ncqQ52GeOyayUOZOn6C4Xgn_qzk-6brxHEuH0YKWOUGZDcOkkIsvVFVeJioCZ7nlRXZN_=w708-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3eziDeGFq5e4pfSaFczMZ9Ze_HTFA9OPOkFxy0QZWpVf6F6Ax6ZOLyNnf5gVSdzuj0yXMaLFT8XXDAuLko2kuegyagwqUS6miGYreHjSjW08937l12NkqQG14Zo0HJykw_0P_FUsEjbTJm28AzcYGXU=w708-h943-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3e2QeGGpkGCTpUbZexCxj7B-PDnM8GUlUeyudh6_j7cHSWBfxLkOl2Y6jk_8riLAwgcrzeixy8h0TlMRnSyyizDLGZsougRdjR64DE0k4arYt3i31-_oyiT-6MH1t9IN6sqy1H2gymWnSKw3q04ATyj=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
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Cheers, looks good! Please tell me you're not using global knives to carve your holds though!
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(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yS3UAX3EsIYePmiW8UOHEI_u4ExLqvPib1xM76RyHo-DOPm19uDtnwDX-adMVWpYoK7P2sfw6z5IVmVZZz8xYDeYLKbwWy5pdrwGX4G4psjUOyAY0cj1UXMO7IEDPXnPn7pP1499SkmluVR_z3sb7Y7sgnMxo_TgfZUIuy8OTapqdOYAR4IDZDCXakgNz7M0sjFczLH0dl2HZkzPFztDitZW2kMYXRl-ZdcpeSVvm63Llg8gJvBvwcKjiia7LoVZxaGks5KuDu1miAex5J3osfka76tMeOxf09745wDBHYHLtcfl3mUmf2DghlbqUK-dBGpApUE6bljUo-_y5VbIEYXQ-vrsiKiopF5f3JWBC9cXaKwwZKz961tG5QglO0i1WTAuEuKYN-DhmGiKoHmyLmJNJP2W0ymBJlu4E55P6fqc3n6i0kipaCc7MeOic0ss1wpxWtA8uQR6HgfG76GeabPATjVc25vrNYd7Y_wCpRA1FhKf5V-BwLKl5cMo-igpKYF0uA7cKkdRnGMNYyxhc4MGTw3l3zzECKGagE8kTbmO2sf8QRCwQx3VUZ8t5JYhAkhT340eVvQHzbUOf8-ifoFCi4Z4y296dKAHbGyq2sZvwt0WgItLyEwWI_5W1Nc-GcsHL2zOrLjNgD9NEqbYHunwyY84JrAu3FKzRqKBCRY-4tgFEg-2XFQzkbjk=w532-h943-no?authuser=0)
Shapes are pretty basic! :)
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fucked up quotes. Ah well.
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Cheers, looks good! Please tell me you're not using global knives to carve your holds though!
:lol:
Nah, rough cut with the circular saw, belt sander wedged upside down in the bench vice to get them down to shape (sometimes angle grinder with flap wheel, but I have run out of flap wheels) and then hand sand to finish). Leaving them pretty rough sanded for grip.
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Finally completed this yesterday. Ready for holds and first problems tonight. Psyched. :2thumbsup:
Took ages to build! Think I started about 6 weeks ago at start of lockdown. Toddler, work and other DIY fills up my days very effectively. ;D
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/xd8gy80rxd6rzk9/2020-05-09%2022.53.06.jpg?raw=1)
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/s9zr32xsct1v0yd/2020-05-10%2020.29.41.jpg?raw=1)
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What a fun day shaping! My first set of holds were "functional" at best. I thought they were alright for a first go, but they were all too aggressive - even the "jugs". After a session I had achey joints.
Inspired by Rginns beautiful hardwood holds linked above on strongholds, I decided to let my creativity go wild (well, as far as it can for an engineer - basically copying his as best I could).
Only made three more (was busy making some shelves and a towel rail, but...man...what an improvement!
I think I may actually enjoy the shaping as much as the climbing! I can also vouch for how long it takes, so if you think handmade hardwood holds are pricey, they're really not considering the effort that goes in!
I'm now going to have to re-shape all the first batch.
Cheers Fultonius,
they look good! :clap2:
hopefully get round to building my own board this week!
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JamieG Do you need the boxing in on the side? Might restrict movement a bit. Otherwise, looks great, very professional job.
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Hi Chris, Unfortunately, yes. The woodie is in our basement room, which is tanked to avoid damp. So i couldn't fix anything to the walls without compromising the tanking material and it needed to be a free standing structure. I would also have made it wider (and steeper - its about 25 deg) but we also use the room as a TV/gaming room, so this was the space I had available to squeeze it into. Its a bit wider than the photo makes it look and the chimney breast is less in the way as well but it will have to be a relatively narrow setting. Going to stick to liquid chalk too since it seems much less dusty. Wife is most excited about the potential to store my climbing 'crap' behind the wall. ::)
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I’ve been using liquid chalk in mine Jamie - seems to keep the mess down (I have a chalk ball for the odd tip chalk too).
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Yeah I got some for my fingerboard (after a suggestion on here) and it was a lot less messy. But maybe not quite as good as regular chalk. I guess it just makes the problems harder. Hows your woodie working out Tomtom? Keeping the psyche up?
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Hi Chris, Unfortunately, yes. The woodie is in our basement room, which is tanked to avoid damp. So i couldn't fix anything to the walls without compromising the tanking material and it needed to be a free standing structure. I would also have made it wider (and steeper - its about 25 deg)
OK, Didn't see it was freestanding. Mine is about 26 deg, limitation was attaching to rafters, so was either that or 37 deg or so, which would have meant me potentially landing on the freezer, and it being too steep for the kids to have the occasional go.
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Hi Chris, Unfortunately, yes. The woodie is in our basement room, which is tanked to avoid damp. So i couldn't fix anything to the walls without compromising the tanking material and it needed to be a free standing structure. I would also have made it wider (and steeper - its about 25 deg) but we also use the room as a TV/gaming room, so this was the space I had available to squeeze it into. Its a bit wider than the photo makes it look and the chimney breast is less in the way as well but it will have to be a relatively narrow setting. Going to stick to liquid chalk too since it seems much less dusty. Wife is most excited about the potential to store my climbing 'crap' behind the wall. ::)
Looks like a pretty good use of space considering the constraints.
We're now storing the skis and spare wood behind the board, hadn't really thought about it before, but it's actually "created" more space than it uses in a strange kind of way.
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Hi Fultonius, Yeah, I was pretty pleased with how it turned out given the constraints. Will try setting some problems on it tonight. Going to have to take back all the times i've muttered about route setters at the wall now. Was really jealous of your garage woodie. The extra height would be so good. Going to try make a few extra holds too. Your ones are looking cool.
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But maybe not quite as good as regular chalk. I guess it just makes the problems harder.
Just to channel our lord and saviour, Dave McLeod, remember that not chalking up properly is one ingredient in the how-to-get-injured recipe. Fingers sliding and firing off the holds is not good.
I like the board and I like the specificity of the Dab Simulator on the left. Good for practicing controlling those cuts on dabby problems. Good thinking :thumbsup:
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I'm in the advanced planning stage for the board rebuild in the garage...
One big improvement is that I'll be adding a vertical 6 inches or so for finishing holds/rail
Aside from that, what is the consensus on kickboards?
I had one on the last board and the temptation was to start problems from the kickboard, and even if the hands were rubbish it made it much easier... i probably have the space not to have one...but could be useful for making sure the foam pads don't get in the way.
Just wondered what peoples thoughts were.
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I read through this entire thread back at start of lock down in prep for my board and consensus I took was:
- if your board is 25 degrees overhang or less, don't bother with a kicker
- if it is, keep it small (I.e. 6" or so) and make the feet really bad, thus avoiding the temptation to get really stretched out on a good vertical foothold, making the first hard move stepping off it.
That's what I went with on mine (45 degrees) and it works well.
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But maybe not quite as good as regular chalk. I guess it just makes the problems harder.
Just to channel our lord and saviour, Dave McLeod, remember that not chalking up properly is one ingredient in the how-to-get-injured recipe. Fingers sliding and firing off the holds is not good.
I like the board and I like the specificity of the Dab Simulator on the left. Good for practicing controlling those cuts on dabby problems. Good thinking :thumbsup:
Very true, the old dry fire off a hold is horrible. Especially the knuckle grating your get on grit. I'm pretty lucky that I don't suffer from too bad sweaty tips so don't need to chalk up too much anyway.
I like the idea of the dab simulator. Although its more likely to be tree root arse interaction simulator if i'm going to be honest.
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There is a good video on youtube from the guy at the power climbing company on this. It made my mind up that a kicker is a good idea. Unfortunately I don't have the board built yet to confirm! Sorry don't know how to link but a search should bring it up.
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I read through this entire thread back at start of lock down in prep for my board and consensus I took was:
- if your board is 25 degrees overhang or less, don't bother with a kicker
- if it is, keep it small (I.e. 6" or so) and make the feet really bad, thus avoiding the temptation to get really stretched out on a good vertical foothold, making the first hard move stepping off it.
That's what I went with on mine (45 degrees) and it works well.
This.
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I read through this entire thread back at start of lock down in prep for my board and consensus I took was:
- if your board is 25 degrees overhang or less, don't bother with a kicker
- if it is, keep it small (I.e. 6" or so) and make the feet really bad, thus avoiding the temptation to get really stretched out on a good vertical foothold, making the first hard move stepping off it.
That's what I went with on mine (45 degrees) and it works well.
Thanks Bradders, and Tom.
Trawling through 42 pages feels insrmountable right now, I've been through it about 5 years ago with the last wall!
Makes sense. It's looking like I can get just over 40 degrees with the space I have, so I may push it to 8 inches if I have one to stop the heel dragging.
Thanks Kac, I found the vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE2wg2LHFek
It has some decent info in there, I hadn't even considered the practical implications of getting a driver in to put holds on...
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I struggled to get screw ons low down, ended up using a small electric screwdriver. Bolt ins i just used an Allan key extended with a ring spanner.
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I struggled to get screw ons low down, ended up using a small electric screwdriver. Bolt ins i just used an Allan key extended with a ring spanner.
Did you have a kickboard Chris?
Don't think I'll be bothering with T-nuts, I did this the last time and fucked up by putting them just where 2 of my beams were so ended up either having to cut the bolts short or not use them.
This time it'll be screwies only... I think this'll give more options anyway.
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No, my board is 26 degrees, borderline, but simplicity of construction made me decide to not bother. I have the choice of retrofitting one, but doubt I'll bother. I was given my boards with t nuts already, and fortunately had a bit of leeway to move about to avoid beams.
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Mines 30° and I def wouldn't want a kicker, climbs better and putting one in would have been way more faff, plus at my angle the lowest I can set footholds is about the lowest I can use them without heel dabbing so perfect.
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Mines 30° and I def wouldn't want a kicker, climbs better and putting one in would have been way more faff, plus at my angle the lowest I can set footholds is about the lowest I can use them without heel dabbing so perfect.
+1 mine is 30* and, as per the advice on here, didn't for a kickboard. The main thing I would like is a thin mat first the first 20cm so if your feet slip you don't smash your heels.
I need to make some more foot holds, so far they're maybe all a bit too positive / incut. I've been making them out of offcuts from out kitchen floor, which is "engineered hardwood" i.e. super-high quality plywood with loads of glue and a 3mm top hardwood surface - they seem pretty indestructible.
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I've got some layers of old underfelt to mat out first half foot or so. Layers slides about a bit, but could be gaffer taped together to lessen this.
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Mines 30° and I def wouldn't want a kicker, climbs better and putting one in would have been way more faff, plus at my angle the lowest I can set footholds is about the lowest I can use them without heel dabbing so perfect.
+1 mine is 30* and, as per the advice on here, didn't for a kickboard. The main thing I would like is a thin mat first the first 20cm so if your feet slip you don't smash your heels.
I need to make some more foot holds, so far they're maybe all a bit too positive / incut. I've been making them out of offcuts from out kitchen floor, which is "engineered hardwood" i.e. super-high quality plywood with loads of glue and a 3mm top hardwood surface - they seem pretty indestructible.
I think I'll opt for a small one as the angle will be between 40 and 45 degrees, but I'll keep it small This should be enough to stop the heel scrape.
Good idea on the flooring, sounds tough enough, be careful you don't overtighten and split it though ;)
Would be a shame to put the work to waste 8)
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Don't use a kick board Rick. Do you know anyone to make you some holds?
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Don't use a kick board Rick. Do you know anyone to make you some holds?
:D
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Good work on the walls :2thumbsup:. Those holds look really good fultonius - my efforts at making holds have been pretty poor.
My wall is 45 degrees and I quite like having kicker as can use certain hold types (eg tiny crimps, 2 finger pocket) on reduced angle when using kicker which I can’t use once feet up on 45 degree bit.
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I've experimented with having a kickboard and not on my 45 and have settled on without. The main reason being on a board which is 4 or 5 moves long I'd often find I'd do the first couple of moves keeping feet on the kickboard which definitely makes them easier and therfore having to do less moves where it's a struggle to keep your feet on and surely thats the effect you want or I do personally for my board climbing. Having no kickboard make the start of the board considerably harder (having done the same problems with and without) so it makes feel like I'm getting more climbing out of the board.
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I've experimented with having a kickboard and not on my 45 and have settled on without. The main reason being on a board which is 4 or 5 moves long I'd often find I'd do the first couple of moves keeping feet on the kickboard which definitely makes them easier and therfore having to do less moves where it's a struggle to keep your feet on and surely thats the effect you want or I do personally for my board climbing. Having no kickboard make the start of the board considerably harder (having done the same problems with and without) so it makes feel like I'm getting more climbing out of the board.
I think that's where if you do have a kickboard you need to keep the feet really shit. Mine are terrible so I can only do one move up at most before I have to step onto the angle.
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There was even someone on this thread somewhere with a house rule that feet come off the kicker after the first move.
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And no pockets.
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Had my first session on the my new woodie. The pysche is out of control! So nice to do some moves again. Feel like a kid on Christmas eve. :bounce:
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Nice! I'm so pleased with mine - trying to hold myself to every other day...
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Don't use a kick board Rick. Do you know anyone to make you some holds?
:whistle:
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Nice! I'm so pleased with mine - trying to hold myself to every other day...
Likewise! And stop by 11:15..
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Late to the lockdown party now the Lime has been called I know but planning to put a board in my cellar.
Pretty standard Sheffield terrace, only got 1.8m of cellar height to play with.
Rough dimensions
Length 3m
Width 2.3m
Kickboard 20cms
Angle 55ish
At the early planning stages of clearing out the cellar and getting some more air in right now. Reeve how did you get on with this, is yours looking any drier? Mine not too bad so hoping a clear out and a couple of additional air bricks will sort it.
This will be my first board and I'm not particulalry DIY savvy so reading through all of these pages has been very helpful.
Due to tight access on the cellar steps I'm going to have to get my ply cut in two so that it fits, timber shouldn't need cutting. Probably won't be at the buying ply stage for a few more weeks and by then hoping more places will be open. Can anyone recommend somewhere in Sheffield that sells good ply and will cut it to order? Hoping to manage this whole process without buying too many power tools myself.
Planning on using 2x4 for the frame, on its side for strength and stability as mentioned somewhere on here. As each length of ply will be in two pieces I'll be screwing both sheets into the the same piece of timber in the middle. Is it likely that trying fit so many screws into one length of 2x4 is going to split it? Was thinking I could double up on timber in the middle to avoid this if likely to be an issue.
The other question I have is around anchoring. I can attach it to brick at the base. The top of the board will be parallel to the floor joists above so hoping to jam it in there and attach somehow. Any pointers on the best way to be attaching into brick at bottom and wood at top. I have a decent power drill.
Finally, if the frame is solid will only attaching at either end be sufficient or is it likely I'll need to put further support in between the frame and other floor joists above? Thinking this might be a good call anyway so that one floor joist isn't taking too much weight. If so again an advice on how to do this?
Any input much appreciated.
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I attached mine to joists above using 2 L brackets with a load of long screws up into the joists, and a coach bolt through the uprights. I got the longest screws I could find, which werre actually too long, and wouldn't go all the way in, so don't overdo it.
What is the floor made of? I attached L brackets to the wall for the other supports, but i think breezeblock is a bit better for rawlsbolts than clay brick.
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Mine are those dimensions - but only 1.2m wide.
I'd say at that angle make it as wide as you can... I know mine is narrow - but the steeper it is the more width you need if you want to use any sidepulls/feet out wide. Otherwise everything is very front on.
Also at that angle - even with a few large holds, I still have to use the fingerboard to warm up before I can do the warm ups on the board :D
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I attached mine to joists above using 2 L brackets with a load of long screws up into the joists, and a coach bolt through the uprights. I got the longest screws I could find, which werre actually too long, and wouldn't go all the way in, so don't overdo it.
Was that just at the end of the board Chris or did you also support from other sections of the frame up into other joists? Sorry my non DIY mind is struggle to picture how you did the coach bolts, was this through the end of the upright where it meets the joist and then all the way through the joist?
What is the floor made of? I attached L brackets to the wall for the other supports, but i think breezeblock is a bit better for rawlsbolts than clay brick.
Think floor is made of concrete but wasn't planing to anchor to it in anyway. Was to make a 2x4 frame for the kick board, rest this on the floor and then attach to brick wall then rest the bottom of the board on top of this and also anchor that into bricks somehow.
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Mine are those dimensions - but only 1.2m wide.
I'd say at that angle make it as wide as you can... I know mine is narrow - but the steeper it is the more width you need if you want to use any sidepulls/feet out wide. Otherwise everything is very front on.
Also at that angle - even with a few large holds, I still have to use the fingerboard to warm up before I can do the warm ups on the board :D
Can't really make it any wider, maybe stretch another 10cms but that would be the max. Another option is to lessen the angle and attach to the next joist in but at the expense of length so prob keep it as planned.
Yeah, expecting my warm ups to be longer than my sessions at that angle. Might ask next door if i can knock through for the warm up board :)
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Thanks for the replies btw :2thumbsup:
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Planning on using 2x4 for the frame, on its side for strength and stability as mentioned somewhere on here. As each length of ply will be in two pieces I'll be screwing both sheets into the the same piece of timber in the middle. Is it likely that trying fit so many screws into one length of 2x4 is going to split it? Was thinking I could double up on timber in the middle to avoid this if likely to be an issue.
I turned the piece where the plywood joined through 90 degrees so that screws had more room. I.e. normally you want the narrow side of the struts towards the plywood since this is stronger/stiffer, but on that one piece I made an exception so that I had more room for the plywood screws. I don't think you want screws too close to the edge of the plywood since they might split or delaminate the ply, so more space is helpful.
But two timbers close together would also work.
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The ply seems tough as... I thought I'd need more screws holding it to the 'joists' - but I've one every 40cm or so and it seems rock solid... (waits for Paul B to quote some engineering figures at me :D )
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That sounds similar to me. My screws are about every foot around the outside of the plywood and a bit less in the middle. Well I think they're still about a foot apart horizontally but every 2ft vertically. I used pretty meaty m6 screws too and it feels absolutely solid.
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Thanks, that all sounds promising, hoping to build something sturdy
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I've perused this thread a few times, along with various other web sources.
I'm trying to work out the cheapest way I can build a decent sized all weather board in the garden. I've looked into getting a shed to stick it in, but it ends up costing upwards of 2k for the shed (at best) before you even start forking out for the all the wall stuff.
Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?
I'm also curious if wooden holds are holding up on these outdoor walls, I imagine they disintegrate after a winter or 2?
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Dan23584 (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=12494) on here has one in his garden, think he boxed in the back and felted it:
https://instagram.com/danstep_55?igshid=1sv8508n01z70
Not sure it's all weather but he certainly seems to use it in light rain
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Thanks to Rick Ginns whose beautifully crafted oak crimps arrived today. :2thumbsup:
Still undecided whether to put them on the board where I can use them some of the time, or arrange them on the mantelpiece where I admire them all the time...
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Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?
No definitely not. Mine's outside and has held up fine over the last two months. Have climbed on it during a downpour and in strong winds. I just have a big tarpaulin which I've attached to the top and then I tie it to a fence in front of the board to act as a roof, then an extra tarp cut to size which goes on the sides. Keeps the rain and wind out fine, even if it's heavy (although admittedly it's not been tested by a proper stretch of bad weather yet of course). In the wind it's a bit like climbing in a tent but doesn't bother me (and tarp keeps the wind off too).
Can't answer your hold question other than to say I hope not! I think the key is just keeping them dry and out of the sun to avoid weathering/rot. My tarp doubles as a cover over the front of the board when not in use so keeps everything nice and sheltered. Time will tell though.
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Has anyone built an all-weather outdoor wall and got any tips? Is it a pipe dream?
I'm also curious if wooden holds are holding up on these outdoor walls, I imagine they disintegrate after a winter or 2?
Built a very cheap (sub £100) outdoor 8'x8' board in a day a few weeks ago - more 'how not to be build a woody' but it'll last a fair while and have successfully had a session on it in the rain. As Bradders said, as long as the holds aren't getting wet or blasted with sun no reason they'll deteriorate any more quickly than indoor setting. The structure of the one I built is integrated with a tree but whilst making it, it occurred to me that if the wall was going to be freestanding, then a sort of tunnel design might work quite well. eg steep 40/45 degree one side, short (just off) horizontal roof at the top and less steep 25 ish or whatever on the opposite side. Quite easy to make it solid and you have a structure which is easy to weather proof with roofing sheets or felt. Would need 'curtains' of some sort down the sides to stop rain getting blown in. Or possibly more substantial doors down the side that you'd usually fold out of the way when you wanted to use it - could then be relatively secure too so could potentially store pads, bikes, etc. in there. just one idea.
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Have a look on Home Climbing Wall Forum on Facebook. Loads of ideas like that on there.
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Steve - Love how your design goes from a 100 tree mounted board to a freestanding climbing tunnel with bifolds 😂
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ribpvw0b197y19/2020-05-24%2019.10.10.jpg?raw=1)
Complete with all the holds on. Well all the holds so far. More room for additions. Can see how squint the ceiling is!
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At the early planning stages of clearing out the cellar and getting some more air in right now. Reeve how did you get on with this, is yours looking any drier? Mine not too bad so hoping a clear out and a couple of additional air bricks will sort it.
Sorry Simon only just spotted this. With the dearth of rain we've had it's quite hard to say really. The cellar is certainly a much nicer environment now we've cleaned all the damp coal dust off floor, but I think the biggest change is from some polythene sheeting covering every inch of the floor. I would only have considered the brick floor to be slightly moist previously, but with the amount of condensation forming under the polythene I guess it was actually quite damp! Not bothered with a dehumidifier yet. In six months time when we are at the end of autumn I might change my mind 🙂
If your cellar brick work is damp you might want to avoid anchoring it to them though. Ours is completely free standing. I can send pictures (is it isn't too late!)
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Finished my board over a week ago and am loving it. The ability to just get a quick hour session on it at any time is a game changer. Had 6 sessions in it already. Can’t believe I have put off doing it for years.
Dave mc was right about having everything on your doorstep makes it so much easier to train.
New moon holds are superb and I always liked the yellows. Top rows are now all filled with beautiful hard wood holds thanks to Will Smith.
Having built dozens of these things in the 80s and 90s I enjoyed every minute.
Took about 25 hours on my own and cost 1200 all in. Storage was worth the extra work.
Bring on the autumn.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQOkMDDk97/?igshid=13x7031tj29um
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That’s a work of art. However it looks a bit chalkless.
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Looks far too fucking robust for my liking. Good job gme.
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That looks great Gav, nice work. New holds looks so much better than old ones!
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That’s a work of art. However it looks a bit chalkless.
Photo was taken just after holds went on. The footholds are not even on if you look.
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Cheers for the advice on outdoor woodies. I might save it for the winter and stick with the fingerboard for now. I'm likely to be unemployed in the very near future so it will have to go to the bottom of the list - I'll hopefully be out on rock again in the the next month or so, in which case a board will be redundant (ish).
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Photo was taken just after holds went on. The footholds are not even on if you look.
Any chance of another now it's finished? It's the first mini-Moon board I've seen.
I should probably say that I have no opinions of the mini Moon board, new holds etc.
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The footholds are not even on if you look.
Was going to say, the holds lying on the ground look a bit dabby.
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Planning permission has been granted for a climbing wall in the "garden room" as part of it's renovation*. Looking at Gav's mini moonboard plus has got me salivating.
Has anyone used a mini moon bar Gav? Are they any good? Would I be better just building my own board?
*Space requirements for storage behind the board, lots of gym matts for the girls do play around and bike/garden equipment storage plus a combined mini wildflower meadow/veg patch on the roof. This will not be a small project!
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Personally, I would focus less on building a Moon or a Mini-Moon or whatever, and just build the biggest board that you can fit within the space (accounting for any other demands on the space like storage etc). It might be that it meets the dimensions of a Moon/Mini Moon, but if you can build bigger then do so. Arguably, Gav's thing could be wider, but then maybe he wouldn't fit in the bench pressing thing that appears to be there on the left.
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Planning permission has been granted for a climbing wall in the "garden room" as part of it's renovation*. Looking at Gav's mini moonboard plus has got me salivating.
Has anyone used a mini moon bar Gav?
A mini Moon bar would indeed be a salivating prospect. I'll have a Jerry and Tonic and a Double Steve Mac to go please.
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Personally, I would focus less on building a Moon or a Mini-Moon or whatever, and just build the biggest board that you can fit within the space (accounting for any other demands on the space like storage etc). It might be that it meets the dimensions of a Moon/Mini Moon, but if you can build bigger then do so. Arguably, Gav's thing could be wider, but then maybe he wouldn't fit in the bench pressing thing that appears to be there on the left.
I could have build something wider but i dont think its necessary, unless you want a traverse/circuit board. Always easy to make things 8/12/16 ft due to plywood sizing and i dont think having it 12 ft wide, which would have fit, would be any better. If i had 16ft of space i would have built two 8 ft wide boards at different angles.
I went down the moonboard route due to the ability to share problems and the use ability of the App not because i think they are the best. I climb on my own up here and it will not get used by many others so nice to have other peoples problems to try, one the mini version gets going that is, i believe there are a good number ordered already though.
The minimoonboard bit is great to climb on but i must admit the extra 3 rows i have outside of the standard grid make it a lot better. As always extra height on a board is the most important thing.
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Agree one "ply width" is a good size to work on for one angle, gives you enough width for up, sideways and up, diagonal or circuit problems.
If i ever expand mine I'll do the same again, but definitely a different angle, probably steeper, but unlikely to bother, as it took forever to get the first bit done.
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Mine is 40* inclined, 7' wide by 9'4" high, but then has a 4" soffit (the 2x4 strut the top of the board rests on) and another 8" of board to provide a line of finishing holds. So effectively 7'x10' with a steepening on the last move. 10" kickboard.
Another foot or two would be great but that length allows for problems between 3-8 moves so it works well. The holds don't follow a pattern, just varied, mix of resin and wood, and I keep adjusting and tweaking so it gets better over time.
hopefully I'll be uninjured at some point...
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One thing I didn’t realise from mine - was that the steeper it is the wider it has to be to use sidepulls and presses.
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if you are weak that's true.. :)
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Managed to build a mini woodie in my basement using only scrap wood found in skips, plus some footholds I bought about 7 years ago. Likely to be the least attractive board you'll ever see. Always wanted to have a board but never wanted to spend so much on all the wood and holds when the local walls have so much more space. Seems like everyone wanted to throw out 18mm ply and 2m 2x3 during the lockdown. One mans rubbish is another mans treasure...
(https://i.imgur.com/iJWR34f.jpg)
Grubbiest basement in Sheffield award.. Planning to extend this leftward once I've installed a light in front of the board and have build more holds. For now I set it in system board fashion just because I always liked the idea of not claiming any board problem unless you can climb it both ways. Blue wood at the top and holds are from the For Sale sign of the house.
(https://i.imgur.com/eC9pBhn.jpg)
Set at the angle of whatever the wood I had would fit between the roof and the floor. Cut some of the scrap door casing to stabilise the seams in the gaps. I wanted to drill into the floor but the old DeWalt couldn't take it so all force is going into the joists. Decided not to add a kicker just for the reason I thought the angle was sufficient.
(https://i.imgur.com/6oilVLC.jpg)
Thanks to this thread for the inspiration on holds
(https://i.imgur.com/7yu6DS9.jpg)
More hold photos here https://imgur.com/gallery/psapxPn (https://imgur.com/gallery/psapxPn) and some pics of the scrap used. Pretty happy with how it turned out considering it cost only screws and whatever I paid for the footholds. Just takes a bit of time to make holds but its not so bad if you make a set before a session. Some of the holds are actually too positive so next on the list is to make some really diabolical ones
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Excellent!
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Well done. With age and experience I've found that the smallest of boards is still an excellent tool for the dedicated. In fact, I plan to build a micro portable one to be put in the garage at a less steep angle than the other one, to train for my other board circuit. Yes, you've read it right.
On a side and pedant note, I feel compelled to specify that system boards and symmetric boards are different.
Crimpy's one is a symmetric but not a system one.
:geek:
Get in!
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looks like you could extend it a bit by fixing some slopey finishing holds onto the blue top beam the board is fixed to?
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Love the ghetto board. Definitely for the hardcore enthusiast only. ;D
Just to reassure you a lot of the load will still be onto the floor even if you couldn't drill into it, rather than just the joists. Especially the vertical load. Your only issue might be if the horizontal load is quite large and cause the base to slip, but i'd imagine the friction between the wood of the concrete(?) floor is pretty large, especially one you are actually on the board. However, to avoid this you could put some brace pieces of wood between the back wall and the horizontal piece on the floor which will stop it sliding backwards. Doesn't even need to be screwed in as long as they are a snug fit.
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Looks good. If you want to get a load of holds on quick, worth getting a broom handle to screw on. I've used an old curtain rod that was lying about and it works well.
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Thanks! Yeah definitely very ghetto, no chance of getting mrs crimpy on this one haha.
I was thinking to add a roof section and run it up the stairs like Alain Robert's bedroom one day. In the meantime the sloping holds idea probably way better for the joints that grabbing for that edge as I do currently.
Thanks for the suggestions for the base of the frame. Overall its been really sturdy but it has 'jumped' a couple of times so a couple of planks between the wall will definitely help. You'll see the floor isn't flat and I had to put an extra piece of scrap under it too.
On a side and pedant note, I feel compelled to specify that system boards and symmetric boards are different.
Crimpy's one is a symmetric but not a system one.
:geek:
Oh nice, what's the difference?
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That's really impressive all from scrap. Nice one.
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Oh nice, what's the difference?
Hey!
A system board (or part of a board) is made to replicate the same move or prehension. I think it was developed first by the Huber brothers (they had some kind of weird board in their bedroom, I believe; I read it somewhere ages ago, it might be an old Desnivel issue, mid nineties or so).
For instance, a series of underclings or gastons, etc.
A symmetric board is a board with symmetric (random) holds on, so that every problem has a mirror-like twin.
I'd say that in general system boards are also symmetric, because you want to replicate the move or prehension for both sides.
:)
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A system board was invented to suck every ounce of enjoyment out of board climbing whilst a symmetric board is designed to double the fun.
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Wanted to say thanks for all the advice and help on this thread. I started building 10 weeks ago and this is what it's turned into...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBOgh45Hv76/?igshid=188c0wrl12oce
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That looks amazing. Good work.
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Nice.
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https://www.wooden-balls.co.uk/index.php/cPath/55
Anyone used these for making holds? Any problems?
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I used the half domes to make footholds after seeing how much cheaper they were than getting them from any of the hold companies.
No regrets on quality and no issues with the seller.
On the downside:
1) I bought them without any holes. With my basic tools, I had drilled holes in about 2 holds before I began to regret the decision not to pay someone else to drill them. If you've got a decent countersunk drill and a decent way of clamping them, doing it yourself is worth the saving.
2) I decided the domes in combination with my handholds were too hard and led to a snatchy climbing style and pushed me towards the easier handholds. I ended up stripping them, cutting, sanding (thankfully was able to borrow someone's workshop this time) and putting them back up to make them easier. This made the board much more versatile and allowed me to get more out of the hardest holds. I can always turn them upside down if I want to make them harder again.
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https://www.wooden-balls.co.uk/index.php/cPath/55
Anyone used these for making holds? Any problems?
Bought some half-balls off ebay for making footholds. No issues with them. I drilled/countersunk and treated them (they're on an external board) before sticking them up. I have a mix of the wooden domes and small edges for footholds, tend to use the domes to make easier problems harder. Haven't used any balls for making handholds if that's what you're after.
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Yeah, was thinking about some bigger ones to make dome / sphere shaped holds. I've not got a lot of big slopers, and not a lot of room to put many up (any that are available seem to be pretty big and expensive) and looking for skin friendly alternatives. I have access to a vice, decent drill, power plane. Will be used indoors.
I've got some old feet off a sofa that work fine, but get very slippery if at all humid (they are stained and polished).
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I've bought 6 of these (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191283638857) in the 75mm diameter a few years ago. You can see the holds I made in this video
https://youtu.be/BHkcbR_X1l0
I sawed a bit off the ball so I had a flat bit to go against the wall. They're quite good. I've had them on the board (40 and 45 degrees) for a few years and use them regularly. However, I only ever made two holds from the six I bought. The reason for this is that when holding the hold the curve of them makes my fingers spread out (knuckles not touching - can see this in the video) and this felt a little bit injurious.
So i'd say go for it. 75 mm diameter usable but larger probably better.
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cheers, I went for 120mm
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cheers, I went for 120mm
Let us know how they work out.
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Will do. I ended up getting a mate who has some of those wooden domes on his campusboard to size his and they measure 12cm. I got 6, probably more than i need.
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Got first one sawn in half and mounted. It's dead smooth and an absolute bastard to pull onto, I can barely get my arse of the ground with big footholds, just what I need i think! Tempted to roughen up surface a bit so i can actually move off them.
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We're in the process of buying a house but it's going to be a bit of a drive to the nearest wall now. I'm used to a 10 minute walk to City Bloc / 15 mins drive to the Depot...
I think the attic would take a board but I'm unsure how we would go about estimating the strength of things.
In our old student house we basically just drilled into the roof beams (image number 108 on the beastmaker site: https://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/your-setup) but this would be an older house (c.1900) and as it's ours I'm more reluctant to put stress in the roof.
Like our old one, the new house has real big horizontal beams, but seems to have thinner pieces of wood that make up the actual roof. It needs boarding out anyway so if we get a good enough space we might just be able to build something free-standing.
Any thoughts on this kind of thing would be appreciated!
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Spread the load and you should be OK! The balance between steepness to maximise surface area and the corresponding extra load on the roof trusses needs to be right.
I think the "thinner pieces" are battens, and won't bear any load at all.
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I would be less worried about the roof beams than the floor joists. Assuming you attach the board across a few roof beams you will be spreading the load over a pretty large area. The weight of the climbing wall and you will be pretty small compared to the weight of the roof and tiles. In addition, there will not be any significant dynamic forces. If you are still worried you can double up the roof timbers in the area of the climbing wall similar to what you might do when installing a Velux.
...now the floor is a different matter. The floor beams are designed for supporting the ceiling below and not you from above. The dynamic load of you falling will apply a high force over a relatively small area.
Ideally you need to install a sub-floor in the area of the climbing wall. If headroom permit you can install 6x2 (or better still 8x2) timbers perpendicular to the existing ceiling joists, spanning to structural walls. If headroom is tight then they could run the timbers alongside the existing ceiling timbers, again spanning to a structural wall. An alternative bodge job would be to screw a couple of layers of ply 18mm ply on top of the existing ceiling joists – this will spread the load over a greater number of joists.
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I built an A frame from the perlings (or what ever they are called: very large bits on wood the roof rests on) up to the apex so it is sort of independent of the roof. The A frame joins at the roof beam at the top but doesn't put much load on it.. I would post an image but I can't be aresed with putting one on the internet and linking etc. If you wanted to PM your phone number I could text them. Shite though they are.
I did also reinforce the floor in order to board it out etc
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If anyone is interested, the Peterborough Climbing Wall is shutting down and selling everything ridiculously cheap.
UKC link https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/for_sale+wanted/climbing_wall_closing_down_sale_of_everything-723854
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Thanks for the responses regarding the attic board. It sounds like the flooring will be the main obstacle to overcome so I’ll get that checked when we get in providing everything goes to plan.
I was planning to board it out somewhat with the potential to create an extra room in the future so getting a proper floor put in at the beginning is probably sensible anyway.
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Nearly finished - bar the kicker, foot holds and some wooden holds on order.
It’s 50 lower 54 upper section. 3m board length 1.2m wide. Went for 20cm across and 40 cm vertical for Bolt on spacing for now (I’ve only 40 holds). Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions. Only been up once so far (screw on feet hopefully tomorrow) but climbs really well hard - but not impossible (with the big feet holds).
Feels great to be moving again rather than hanging.
I wondered what your approx footprint of the board is? I'm guessing approx 200x120cm based on the above?
We're due to get a house in November and I'm hoping to put a board in. Think we'd need to get the attic fully done (new purlins etc) to put it up in the attic so I'm wondering about the possibility of making a freestanding one in the room I intent to use as an office. I think I could just about fit a board of that size and desk in there. Happens to be the perfect size to put my big organic pad down for as well...
I wondered how you've got on with it too. Is it just okay for trying harder problems or have you found that you can link a decent number of moves together on it? I'll probably be starting to climb more again after an injury by November so probably want some easier problems to start with.
We're going to be an hour (at rush hour) drive from the nearest wall so I'm definitely going to want to put something up...
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I wondered what your approx footprint of the board is? I'm guessing approx 200x120cm based on the above?
We're due to get a house in November and I'm hoping to put a board in. Think we'd need to get the attic fully done (new purlins etc) to put it up in the attic so I'm wondering about the possibility of making a freestanding one in the room I intent to use as an office. I think I could just about fit a board of that size and desk in there. Happens to be the perfect size to put my big organic pad down for as well...
I wondered how you've got on with it too. Is it just okay for trying harder problems or have you found that you can link a decent number of moves together on it? I'll probably be starting to climb more again after an injury by November so probably want some easier problems to start with.
We're going to be an hour (at rush hour) drive from the nearest wall so I'm definitely going to want to put something up...
With some room either side - its width is about 140-160 (10-20cm gap either side) and about 200-210 cm. It ended up being 53-54 degrees for the main part, and 50 for the bottom third.
Its brutal - but superb. At first I had some bolt on resin holds that were very positive but a bit tweaky and narrow (designed for kids) that I climbed with jenga blocks for feet. Then I got a load of wooden holds (a mix from Pete W, Rick Ginns and Crusher) this changed how it climbed dramatically. Much harder - and I now use my resin bolt ons for feet and wood for hands. I warm up for 5-10 min on a fingerboard first - and then have some warm ups on large wooden blobs that I can now use as a circuit for as many moves as I like (good for core on 50+ degrees!).
For the main climbing - its typically 3-4 moves to the top ranging from crimp ladder to high foot rockovers, sidepulls and gaston/press moves. Its mirrored (ish - some of the holds are different but similar) which on a small board is quite good for isolating some weaknesses. I still find the first 'easier' problems I did on it hard and quite regularly fail on them (especially if a little tired) which means I've got the board set up right for me. Hand holds are pinches, incut rat crimps (great on a 50) and flat one pad edges - that are not really incut enough for the board so they are like generous 1 pad slopers!! That really works your half crimp!! If it gets too easy - I can just make the footholds smaller/less grippy and it will climb very differently. I'm normally done in after 45-60 min on it tbh... its quite intense.
I don't find the lack of climbing distance (its more out than height at 50+!) an issue for me and there is plenty of scope to add another move at the bottom (lower sit) or move at the top (move to another crimp for example instead of the thank god jugs). But - at that angle, if you use a sidepull (and less so gaston) then you have to use it in a - er compression style and flick up from it - rather than stick out a wide foot and yard off it. And thats because its just not wide enough. Think I'd need at least 2m wide to make that kind of move work. 6 months (ish) on and I still use it at least twice a week (maybe a teeny bit less if I can get outside) and I'm far from bored/exhausted of it.
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Cheers Tom - that's really useful. I hadn't factored in the space either side which could cause it to be very tight.. I guess that it would only need it on the wall side though which could work. Failing that something which can be pulled out from the wall a little when in use. Good to hear you can do some kinds of circuits too. I guess they might be a little more boring than a bigger board but useful nonetheless.
Really psyched to get one - I just hope that the house goes through!
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Okay, so I've had a read through the thread but need a bit of shed specific knowledge that I didn't spot on my breeze through the 45 pages.
I've bought a 12×8 shed for £120. Needs a bit of general tlc, door moving into gable end, new opening window(s) fitting also going to raise the height to the 8ft max on planning rules.
Going to build a board, also want to have the option to use for bike rollers, weights and potentially a bit of occasional workspace.
All seems manageable but getting conflicting views on insulation.
Have seen plenty online about lining inside with a breathable membrane, then a fibre or board insulation layer followed by a skin of ply or cheaper board.
Have also heard folk say this traps damp against the ship lap and causes damp/rot issues.
The timber is treated but I've treated it myself inside and out with wood preserver since I picked it up.
Ideally I want to insulate it, as much for heat in summer as winter cold. I'm getting a mains power supply so a fan and or door and windows open should be okay for the board if its warm?
Anyone got any experience or advice on insulation?
Cheers.
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No point insulating if you're not heating, and if you're heating it might still not be worth insulating if you're just going to heat while climbing if it's cold. I.e. Insulation just slows the rate of cooling between the interior and exterior, so if you're not heating, or infrequently heating, it's pretty pointless.
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Finished my board over a week ago and am loving it. The ability to just get a quick hour session on it at any time is a game changer. Had 6 sessions in it already. Can’t believe I have put off doing it for years.
Dave mc was right about having everything on your doorstep makes it so much easier to train.
New moon holds are superb and I always liked the yellows. Top rows are now all filled with beautiful hard wood holds thanks to Will Smith.
Having built dozens of these things in the 80s and 90s I enjoyed every minute.
Took about 25 hours on my own and cost 1200 all in. Storage was worth the extra work.
Bring on the autumn.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAQOkMDDk97/?igshid=13x7031tj29um
gme, what's your opinion of the "Mini Moon Extra" that you've built? Still enjoying it? I am torn between a mini moon with a couple of extras row as per your set up or just that size board with my own setting.
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I'm looking to add an attachment to the top of my woodie so I can add some rings. I'm guessing the easiest way is to get a couple of bolt hangers in which case any suggestions for what I need to attach them to the ply. Also is eBay the best place to get a couple of cheap hangers?
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I use these for my TRX/pulley setup above the board.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v
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I'm looking to add an attachment to the top of my woodie so I can add some rings. I'm guessing the easiest way is to get a couple of bolt hangers in which case any suggestions for what I need to attach them to the ply. Also is eBay the best place to get a couple of cheap hangers?
I used 2 M10 eye bolts screwed into T nuts.
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I use these for my TRX/pulley setup above the board.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v
Yeah same, use for pull up bar and rings and seems totally secure.
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Thanks for the advice - will give those screwfix hangers a try.
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I'm looking to build a small board in our garage at the moment. I'm working within the following measurement parameters: floor-ceiling 2.4m, width 2.4m, depth 3.1m. The space has a plasterboard ceiling with fairly slender joists behind it; it's a pitched roof garage.
Given the relative slenderness of the joists, I was wondering if there was a design I could employ that didn't fix into them nor one that used leg supports. Has anybody made any sort of timber/glulam or other material truss in such a fashion before for example?
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what is the wall? You could always put in some ties so the wall takes some of the load, and a couple of supports to the ground too. I think Fultonius did similar in his garage
I'm sure a qualified architect could help you work out the loads ;)
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Why no legs?
Your space is similar to mine (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3260.msg478095.html#msg478095). I built something freestanding which works nicely. If there's no need to get behind the board you could make it wider.
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Legs/Aframe 👍
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The idea has legs
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I built a board that completely spans the width of the shed, so the support was easy: vertical 2x4 coach bolted into side walls, length of 2x4 sits on top of it, board edge rests on this. I have a hatch in the side wall to get behind the board and store gardening stuff but you could easily have a removable section of board in the lower portion to do the same.
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Sounds like I had something similar to mrjr recently built in my garage. I was going to go down the free standing route but had it built by a pro who recommended supporting it between garage walls. Dont know how to attach pictures but pm me and can show what they did.
Just to add a recommendation on wood holds I have just got a few holds from beta blox - good value and big range of pinches and domes. Surprised they don't seem to have been recommended before. I've also bought rick ginns strongholds, crusher and hardwoodholds and all fantastic. I've found the hardest thing getting footholds that I like and dont trash shoes!
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@kac I was going to get a set of CORE. Foot dinks but was put off by £10 p&p on £30 of (light and small) holds. If you want to combine an order and thus halve the post cost let me know. Or anyone else for that matter.
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Hi tomtom, i did get some core geo 20mm. Went to the factory to collect and avoid that post cost - its not too far from the peak. Also got eBay wood domes and 10mm crusher dinks. The cores soon become a bit too positive and the domes and dinks too poor. The core geo board feet look great and with hindsight should probably have got some of those. Beta blox do the cheapest footholds i have seen - not tried them though.
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Hi tomtom, i did get some core geo 20mm. Went to the factory to collect and avoid that post cost - its not too far from the peak. Also got eBay wood domes and 10mm crusher dinks. The cores soon become a bit too positive and the domes and dinks too poor. The core geo board feet look great and with hindsight should probably have got some of those. Beta blox do the cheapest footholds i have seen - not tried them though.
Cheers - what angle? Was thinking of the 20mm too.. Mines 54 (ish) and 10mm Jenga blocks are too hard for me at the moment - but larger bolt ons a bit too positive :D
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Its a 45. The geo 20mm would probably be perfect on a board as steep as yours. They are very positive one way up - although I find the positive edges trashes shoes a bit. I wear old shoes using them!
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Its a 45. The geo 20mm would probably be perfect on a board as steep as yours. They are very positive one way up - although I find the positive edges trashes shoes a bit. I wear old shoes using them!
Thought about turning them upside down?
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We have the 20mm core geo on a 50 board. They're good and maintain a reasonable amount of grip to give you big long moves that are feet-dependent. Have them as flat edges rather than the incut.
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I have turned about half round. Not all as wanted some positive for warming up. Think I'll try turning them all round! :goodidea:
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I've got these on my 30° board:
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-feet-board_1/
The 11mm flat sides are too good for my angle so I've turned them, but the others are spot on
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Being a bit steeper I was after these
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-20mm-feet_1/
Used them (or maybe the 30’s) on the depot 50 - along with ones like yours Duma iirc.
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Being a bit steeper I was after these
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-holds/shop-by-type/footholds/geo-screw-on-20mm-feet_1/
Used them (or maybe the 30’s) on the depot 50 - along with ones like yours Duma iirc.
I just bought some of the 30s for my 40 board. Useful as a bigger foothold both for making problems easier and for endurance stuff. Got them from Hardwood Holds who sell them in sets of 8 and don't think postage was unreasonable. They do the 20s too I think.
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Cheers Rob - out of stock :D
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Cheers Rob - out of stock :D
Typical!
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I'm just about to paint the last coat onto the newly painted garage floor (incredibly easy) having taken the time to paint the blockwork (complete PITA) internally whilst the garage was empty. The latter isn't a work of art by any stretch of the imagination.
It's now time to think about actually building the board. Without coming across as a right :wank: the space is fairly large (6m wide, 5.4m deep, 2.5 - 3.8m high) with a ridge beam already in-situ (no trusses to deal with) and I was wondering what UKB thought should be the maximum height of any home board? I typically had the misfortune of dropping a last move on the Depot Manc. board shortly after it opened and landing on my face from up there hurt, a lot.
I'm inclined to build something akin to the LHS of the new School Room which inclines from low angle on its LHS to steep on the RHS (perhaps ~30 to ~45 for me). It needs to serve not only my needs but Nat's as well, and deal with going round and round rather than 3-move wonders.
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How do you plan on padding it out? I don't think I'd want to go beyond whatever three plywood panels width and a small kicker adds up to at the angle you choose.
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Mine is 3.3m long @ 30degrees, so do the math. I've got actual mats from TCA leftovers, but took a few falls onto, and just off :o boulder pads, which was grim/almost wrist breaking...
3.8 would be fine with dedicated padding I think (which sucks up about 40cm of height anyway), but 3.3m seems quite a decent size for solo sessions. Certainly doesn't feel "short". Just picked up some old carpet to lay on my foam, as foam along is a bit soft and directionally unstable!
I'm considering a clever re-design with a central crack running up the middle joist, maybe with inserts to change the sizes, or an adjustable width crack.
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Mine is exactly 3m vertical height, and fine to land onto pads from the top (big snap with the cells so nice to land on). However its 30° so you're much less likely to land on your arse or wrist than on a 45° .
I think any more than 3m and I'd want dedicated foam, especially for a steeper board
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You can always make the harder moves lower down :)
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...and I'd want dedicated foam, especially for a steeper board
I have a slight worry that if I spend a lot on dedicated foam, the local rodents will have a field day building a home in it (likewise after GME's episode I'm worried they'll also eat my wiring loom during the winter). I've been gifted a few gym style blue crash mats (the thick ones, not the exercise stuff) and have an array of dead, dying and OK pads that initially I was going to use. Ultimately though I think it'd have to be either some commercial wall leftovers or the CORE/Holdz home variation (although both are £££).
I've tried convincing Nat that it'd be cheaper (considering mats) to build something that's adjustable (especially seeing as though at work we end up dealing with steel-fabricators often) and we'd end up with a better density of holds (see also cheaper) but I'm not winning.
Mine is 3.3m long @ 30degrees, so do the math.
2.85m.
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You could go about 10ft at 45 then into a single panel at 30? Obv more likely to land on your feet pinging off a 30. That's a big/high board like.
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Do you mean 45 into a 30 head wall? We both need to be able to use the board for bouldering and circuits.
There's existing wooden joists sat on the UB running end to end with a tie member running on one side of each joist just below the beam. I was intending on running joists up to meet the existing (and using a butt joint) and then putting a plywood gusset over the side without the tie. Each joist would be a few degrees less/more than the one adjacent to it. I was then considering adding another tie, taking the existing one off and then mirroring things but I reckon I may run out of enthusiasm!
Anything more complex, like a headwall, would need to have plywood extending much lower to incorporate the change in angle I'd have thought?
Incidentally I always enjoyed climbing on the old Foundry barrel board as the holds at the top (Pusher Font stuff) was desperate.
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Yeah 45 into a 30 headwall.
Just reread your post. Sweet idea, slightly curved boards, you'd have gaps at panel edges which would mean a bit of filling. I'd go for that!
I'd be inclined to fix ply gusset to existing rafter then the new board timber onto other side of ply, and stick a bolt or two through the lot at the top. With butt joint the ply becomes structural so you should really be screwing and glueing it.. ball ache.. be easier and quicker to get a bolt at the top and just screw fix ply, use to take out any bounce/deflection.
With your roof being ridge beam, I'm guess 150 or 200 deep rafters on that span, need to be careful on loadings here. I bet the roof timbers are near their limits. That garage I've just done is 3.2m rafter length, 150 deep rafters at 300 centres. 400/450 would have been fine, going to 300 should allow me to fix a board to it.
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There's two buildings, the one which is by itself (doesn't share a wall) has the same timbers and beam but at MUCH closer c/c. I'll check the dims. but from the top of my head they're further apart (in the more spaced garage) than 300mm c/c and I'd guess they're deeper than 200mm.
Either way I'll be running a few quick calcs.
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You could always go for one of these if the price doesn't put you off :lol: :o
I reckon they'd be keen for some ad space in London Climber though...
https://www.interfaceclimbing.com/
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Not sure if this is of any interest but i built this during the summer. It fits into a modern (Ie bare minimum size) semi detached house with garage. I must declare we did have support from commercial suppliers but the cost to build and end result has been fantastic.
The holds are from Hardwood Holds & Beta Blox
LED Digital system from Digital Training Boards
Plywood - Local Funeral directors (Try getting quality 3/4" ply during lockdown. I called in a few favours)
I already had the 3 x frames from a previous build i had on the outside of the garage. I found that although it seemed a nice idea to have an outside wall. In reality it was hardly ever used. Restricted in how it worked and the marine ply fell to pieces as nothing could stop uk weather and just general damp. The frames however were high quality, built by a professional and hadnt weathered a day. I spoke to a joiner friend and he advised that seeing as i had 6 roof joist frames in our garage there was little to worry about the weight of the wall/climber. I braced a beam through all 6 joists (That took me and my son about 30mins where we actually bent the beam to fit it in one piece). I fixed it down with a few screws to stop it moving but essentially it didnt need much fixing as the load is pushing/pulling down on the beam. I then fitted a kickboard frame with a beam at floor level and another at about 1ft, both fixed into the wall of the garage. Then it was just a case of fixing the 3 x frames i had to the beam in the joists. If i had 4 x frames it would have been better but there is only a small amount of flex in the plyboard noticable on really powerful moves so no big deal.
Once all that was up it was time to put the boards on. 2x 8x4 sheets plus a kick board. No big deal. We ended up with an angle of about 40dg.
We had the help of DTB who was amazing. He even got all the holds and laid them out on a 8x4 sheet of paper and drew around the holds and numbered them for us. Me and my daughter fitted them in a few hours together. Its all screw ons. No t nuts. It was honestly like painting by numbers.
This was all done at the height of lockdown and we unfortuately had to wait for the Digital setup to be fitted. Honestly, its amazing. Exactly the same setup as fitted to all the commercial walls around the country. It takes 2mins to set a climb as it is a picture of the wall and you press the holds you want to use on a touch screen. Confirm the name and grade and off you go. I can set and programme climbs mid session quite easily. I went on a facebook page and asked for suggested routes. Spent a night programming them in and because it has a mirror facility and 2 sets of footholds, the 100 or so climbs i got sent turned into 400 climbs. Its a fantastic training facility and we have it set up where we can do pyramids based on grades, climbs based on movement specifics and even concentrate on weaknesses if we feel something is missing. We even have some endurance loops programmed.
Costings were something like
2 x sheets of ply £80
Frames - Free
Kickboard ply - Free
Top Beam, screws and other bits & pieces - £50
Holds - Not sure but i think there will be about £6-800 worth of holds on there
DTB System - Contact him to see as they are all bespoke.
I reckon without the DTB part you are looking at about £1000-1200 all in and that is using holds from brilliant companies such as Beta Blox, Hardwood Holds and Core. You may be looking at doubling it to get the digital system but believe me, it makes a massive difference to using it as a training tool. You can structure sessions in minutes so you are concentrating on climbing rather than setting and grades.
Anyhow, i hope this helps. If the links dont work then its all on lily.climbs on instagram
Not sure if these links will work but i hope this may be of interest
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_rzOrRj7Zw/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_r1bA-Df4V/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CAVMBgxDcpE/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFfbvz0D-IR/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
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Wow that looks like an amazing setup. Nice work!
The LED system looks really good too. Definitely a step up from my dodgy handwriting in a notepad. And it would definitely speed up setting problems. Although to be fair a significant amount of my training time is spent sitting on the mat watching netflix, so maybe there are other efficiency savings to be made first.
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While we waited for it to be fitted we used sticky dots, electrical tape etc etc to mark climbs. It either didnt stick due to chalky environment or just ended up a mess where we couldnt work out what climb was what.
Seeing as i dont climb, i got the job of setting climbs. I would come out with a sore head from the stress of trying to set suitable climbs quickly enough. With this you choose a grade, slide a bar on the screen and off you go. We are not part of a network like the Moon system but i am not a fan of the holds on the moon boards, they arent very skin friendly.
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Question for the hive mind; if you already have a 45' board and have space for a second board for circuits, systems, etc., what angle would you go for on the second?
Max height 2.5m. Max overhang c. 35' but I figure that's probably too much.
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Firstly, you lucky bastard! If you've already got a 45 I think the best angle for circuits is probably 20/25 degrees. Not sure what angle walls tend to use for their circuit boards?
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55 💪🏻😀
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Mine is 26 degrees, and I find the downclimbing bit of circuits hard without resorting to jugs, what sm says sounds about right.
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Firstly, you lucky bastard! If you've already got a 45 I think the best angle for circuits is probably 20/25 degrees. Not sure what angle walls tend to use for their circuit boards?
I think from memory the LH of the two circuit boards at the Depot Manc is 25 degrees.
The LH of the circuit boards at BUK seems like a good angle to me. Often the down-climbs have been the crux but they certainly don't resort to jugs!
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I've got 15 degrees and works ok.
I find that on steeper circuit boards, I guess 20+, pain in my callouses becomes the limiting factor if trying to stay on for a long time. so i prefer a less steep board for circuits. My favourite board for circuits was the ply wall left of the door at the edge, which varied between 10 and 20, RIP. One can still get outrageously pumped on a vertical wall but the holds would have to be tiny. Which is ideal training for peak routes. What are you training goals?
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Has anyone finished their board with a layer of satin varnish or something? I'm not wanting it pristine for ever it just seems to keep them from 'rubbering up' quite as fast.
In theory I've got some beefy C24 turning up tomorrow-ish and then building can begin next week.
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Thanks for the views on circuit board angle. Going with 20.
Follow up question for those with boards in sheds....do you get condensation forming on the holds in this kind of humid weather? Any thoughts on preventing this happening?
Has anyone finished their board with a layer of satin varnish or something? I'm not wanting it pristine for ever it just seems to keep them from 'rubbering up' quite as fast.
In theory I've got some beefy C24 turning up tomorrow-ish and then building can begin next week.
I was recommended yacht varnish to seal it / weather proof the boards. Never actually got round to putting it on when I had an outdoor board though so not sure how effective it is.
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Small garage wall advice....
Mate is building one in a very standard garage. Lengthways at 35* with a 30cm kickboard, it has about 1m "space" between the top of the board at the garage wall. What's the recommended minimum gap so you don't roll back and twat your head?
40* gets 778mm
40* no kicker is 500ish mm
Thoughts?
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Just pad the wall? You won't ever be hitting it that hard at 500mm horizontal from the top holds. You may dab if cutting loose however I'm not sure if that is an issue on a home wall.
If it was me I would maximise climbing space as the first priority.
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Thanks for the views on circuit board angle. Going with 20.
Follow up question for those with boards in sheds....do you get condensation forming on the holds in this kind of humid weather? Any thoughts on preventing this happening?
I was recommended yacht varnish to seal it / weather proof the boards. Never actually got round to putting it on when I had an outdoor board though so not sure how effective it is.
I know r-man has treated his outdoor board with some sort of varnish when he built it this year, he may be able to give some detail on how it's bearing up so far?
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Small garage wall advice....
Mate is building one in a very standard garage. Lengthways at 35* with a 30cm kickboard, it has about 1m "space" between the top of the board at the garage wall. What's the recommended minimum gap so you don't roll back and twat your head?
40* gets 778mm
40* no kicker is 500ish mm
Thoughts?
I once built a board in a spare room in a fairly small flat in Sheffield and had a similar issue. It was a bit unnerving at times but mine also featured a window ledge which posed an additional hazard. Sorry I can't quite remember the clearance but it would've been 1m or less and I don't remember hitting it that often.
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[quote author=Bradders link=topic=3260.msg620830#msg620830 date=
Follow up question for those with boards in sheds....do you get condensation forming on the holds in this kind of humid weather? Any thoughts on preventing this happening?
[/quote]
Not in a shed but this is a real problem for me on my outdoor board. More susceptible to condensation than any crag. Resin holds up better than wood but all bad in general. If there is no wind and humidity is high it’s un climbable.
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Just pad the wall? You won't ever be hitting it that hard at 500mm horizontal from the top holds. You may dab if cutting loose however I'm not sure if that is an issue on a home wall.
If it was me I would maximise climbing space as the first priority.
This. Dolly's shed has little swing room - and he just uses upright bouldering pads along the wall.
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I have to hang a pad from the pedal of a bike, and one problem has an unavoidable shoulder / bike dab when finishing. Scary at first, but it's actually fairly safe.
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I would hope people wouldnt be cutting loose on their home boards, not if they want to get strong #straighton #dropkneedropagrade #feetonorfoff
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I would hope people wouldnt be cutting loose on their home boards, not if they want to get strong #straighton #dropkneedropagrade #feetonorfoff
You need to get some smaller footholds if you're not cutting loose :p
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With further lockdowns looming, and never quite getting the "crack machine" added to the all, I've been pondering a few ideas.
While out mountainbiking today (couldn't keep up with the fit boys, so plenty time on my own to think) I came up with this idea:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0Q98cJgpMK_pGyHNV2gAvCMBju7sjzvCLMeZGdoRUXzg47ma1DLcb8UUAi7OKIkeynz4qwHbe7Ddd1M22KU25AucxxicvlIIvxUMM-F_azW0zXU9VvuomWT36Gu2T1uGKTuWyn7cntCFaw8NCF7nrjZonbU7G-6PKIlRYuGSM1k9UX4doZtU1Wv9-gwgRwdo5jJ87k9s2UM0IkFfZ0RTrkrMbXeppONlkMtrpjhxP9TtqSFAdXEMjGvi4Fmxwb_HC2KwA2Ju1Y8jN9e2HTBANcKEklTCBssDEKsNXXJDYBU9MGvB_--S4qdlITPjWMyZym2mhcIKZJA-_VgJEyIz2PovyzeE9E_JsMhQQEuKazXIPIyGUoSvyQl327KeFE4Ku5u0mBfmBGlvxUJhB3rkELzzwkr-KktmrAdGZE8Y8_RIDelUuCqRg0o5NlHOKSpBFbcV4j2fmBcEx6___-Zd2dBjZAjv41vYmAUoZauL16j14XYsMQLHIsh94TQQyFno2bEg4NwOIfZfTf6jk-gJHKQlpV9F2vO5LkZB3IlJDoDsUpRiZiLSvAMX9bgx_xxdyr13WPD56RW8aYM3O9mI6lFmN1dv3eAI9oKgGq_CYhUnjaeVxV6mtoexeL9DNIckzsdpKeX_zBfX6WgTYwX6xOaopw4DoprZ85Q_jv9kPKXC9rWkPbWBjJ4-vabRwg=w934-h789-no?authuser=0)
I'm yet to devise the key bit, which is having the central board in the crack on a threaded rail system so I can move it and make one crack bigger and the other smaller.
Ignoring the finer details of the crack design for now, how well would the volume add to the board climbing experience, and conversely, how shit could it make it?
Pros: More angles, bit more interesting, better for heel hooks, sidepulls and gastons, can make problems that use james
Cons: Gets in the way, takes up 1/4 of width, loses 120mm of space
Another idea is:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/otroPwOEE0F8DXJJdflU_bKtkdoawkyvKD9BWM72zWZSQ5PY1H1QYluX5E2xf9I_PWu3P3h_htbmspxQ58FWGFpwIFbJbZlTweI9PJgZApyfByDvJdXG0i86jZhcqftqy-ntIgJIzXNpV5uPTTzvPAF876TwpvXWSuXF1uW1hV3pSM-4F5zDpSnEkQrSk6k9LACuoS0nJboEXkJWviWRfJUDLgwf2b6_7BRkr6EpJ3gIrh6FGAdxS1p7AefMFBDUgOH4Q5BbOuaFOY1pvwUavx_ThD2w8tmAPzV-Jzl7NyX9LfDvR2vYxY-EkF6GwMBVAQXBqjI4UDtxPufwqwOP_nx-UGOiLIRgPBQPXYKOJuq6AtXaCqjriOqKrpEvhsWJ3aWVfwzw3GtEjKwVQ78ik8tZ218EkePm5v8LIdcWHhZ5tcbo33f4S2h86IApKJ_gpYe0Df8XgmWDBsWSLt-Te1pUcRhV_kCpZezgIcUp2rIw6OtaiZDcVyZd4ojKzQh-edLNjCmWloacEXjfh0YOGZJhkeJsgMgfClbH_MrBNs7eL5l1ZhXvwJOAGalk8cWEq2t4mDJEeESGxYO35hxgjPRT5zbEawteKcm6kHAsxSNFAling337MtcSV5d83SzHLzCwkq5j8SGoThIvnCvoDo2ZKudhRuihZQ95YaR-55EL589Hn9jfmE5KcHh6tw=w999-h694-no?authuser=0)
Pros: Less in the road
Cons: far side holds less useable as no flat board beyond for feet
I could always go with the original plan of mounting on the edge of the board, that way it doesn't use up any board space. However, I'm already finding the board encroaches quite badly on the workbench space.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a-IZ2n_YwaPgAVGXav04EtH5q5I_Q_7Gp5b2Y388TFkOhpfhtjGvWlw0W5DhIcsoZQqD1QRUJeBjRtYN8QDFAUarw10lOwfoJaqjCSWAd-gGmUV11v8Yk_LNU8uS3UmUItbDVw_ZVTgLIfRgbLlbbqI0n3gRvDkQsw2ZAS2ku4SiT1Hg6Jcx53OEWRc2OgheGZuTqfUIxsZbTcBZPkIMwI-a5wqnn0j_ILtG9vUzqq9xJw5DP5Qiq9j6Ogi2_WIVflFQ_Lg98rwaJQAAPg3aquBp4euApTW6VPeUYHVzeSZNNh7Mas4fDV6dHibzFii4gHJp80iXlZ1J6YwMZhwpH6XjtO7tTiQwmmozVTrUPqJLrlNGLjpc96sj_fH99HYZGLmBvPyQ_JQUT93fCCCTRHNIBV6s-3F5dcTTstroZIhV2x24RR8Bh8TNmcBb2Blb141YgW0h3k0KaI-oIpCURu479HNwHkk3hMD9DyRruN5zIYtBqr-zLysydTqzWv8wFK9au60fK-GVQGykUjuUDbQCQLYxPAmLv032S73ayx_CXZRzYpWp_BUfadiwrn40OWwfwJF2flKqJGYHd6KyzDDL7yUbKoRJQVO2Z7UzouEFhHfQQt1XxkCdrZ0gEdPGeUfo-GUcpo3yDV-SGrumIAbUSZqCmSNwgfIjzTrhmmu7404i2TKYcbKykfbpeA=w808-h1077-no?authuser=0)
I could move the vice, or redesign my bench a bit...
Any thoughts?
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Is there no way you can have it set in the board instead (possibly a right pain to retrofit) that way it would interfere with the rest of the board less perhaps?
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Yeah, I had thought of that, but was wondering about rigidity etc as it would get in the road of the noggins and split the ply in half.
I'll keep that thought in the mix.
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Does anybody have a board where you've had to create a false ceiling of joists? If so, please could I see your framing plan for an 8 foot wide board together with connection details that fixes into it.
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Slightly random question; is it worth getting an impact driver for screwing holds on? And is it okay to do this without drilling pilot holes first?
Reason I ask is I have a normal combi drill atm, which is a good all rounder, but when I set my last wall I ended up having to drill pilot holes every time, which obviously more than doubled the time it took to get all the holds on. Is there any downside to using an impact driver without pre-drilling holes? Does it damage the ply?
TIA
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I’ve a drill driver (brushless) that does the job fine. Even so I tend to set the torque low and then nip up by hand. I’ve split a small plastic foot wedge abs driven the screw in too far On a couple of wooden holds.
With an impact driver - it’s got more power (good for not needing pilot holds) but might need a bit more control to stop over tightening.
Could it be the type of screw? Some certainly go in easier than others?
(My experience is only my own board though - take above with pinch of salt etc.. 😀)
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I found the type of screws made a huge difference. I had to drill pilot holes for cheap screws, and even then my 18v drill had problems and often stalled. Then I bought some more expensive screws with wired threads and a lubricating coating that came with TX / star- shaped bit - no pilot holes required, just go straight in with only slight pressure.
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Impact drivers, if you think you might do more than just move holds around, are a total godsend, so much less torque on your wrist and slipping screws. I literally v remove the screws with my drill, if they went in with the impact.
I bought various adaptors so I can use it with sockets etc. Very handy!
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I was going to say the opposite about getting screws out put in with an impact driver. My board has been built 3 times by late brother in law, he was a joiner by trade. The first time I tried to take it down with drill driver I failed to get several screws out and ended up with having to hammer the screw through the ply and levering the board off. I then bought an impact driver when I was taking it down next time and still there were some screws I couldn’t get out. I ended up with an 8x4 board swinging off one screw, which when levered off drew blood.
I guess the answer is don’t move house if your board has been built by a professional.
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I've never had to drill pilot holds for 18mm ply and a standard 18v drill should do the job. I've found using Torx or Spax screws to be essential though. They're pricier but make the job so much easier
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Torx screws and an impact driver is what i’ve used.
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I've never had to drill pilot holds for 18mm ply and a standard 18v drill should do the job.
would second that (with caveat that it's a decent brand drill obvs eg. makita, dewalt). Personally don't like impact drivers for screwing into wood (except really long screws into hardwood maybe) and don't see any advantage into ply. Much less feel what's going on and grim on the ears. Personally find standard PZ2 goldscrew or silverscrew screwfix (cheap) 5mm screws go straight through any ply no problem. def no pilot holes required.
Can see Impact drivers being crucial if you want to set/move bolt ons quickly but for screws into ply, wrong tool for job imo.
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Thanks all, thinking back to setting my last board it sounds like it was the screws at fault then; it was mid-lockdown and I just bought a load of cheap things from B&M Bargains....
Will get some Torx / Spax / quality ones this time.
I guess the answer is don’t move house if your board has been built by a professional.
Literally just done exactly this! Board built by a chap who normally does skate parks and film sets, to say it was over-engineered would be a big understatement and it was hard going to take it down.
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Cheap screws are the worst investment you'll ever make. Its amazing the difference you see with the better ones.
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Fnarr fnarr!
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These are the screws I use and referred to above. Well worth the premium - I fitted a load of new dome footholds this week (my high-strung neighbour is back out working now, whilst I am WFT all the time, so after months of abstinence, I have been able to use my woodie again). Utterly effortless to fit with my cordless drill - straight in, first time every-time with no pilot holes / tapping required.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbo-ii-tx-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-5-x-50mm-200-pack/1998h (https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbo-ii-tx-double-countersunk-multipurpose-screws-5-x-50mm-200-pack/1998h)
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I've got a few boxes of standard Goldscrews left over from my previous board and they're noticeably worse than any with a cutting tip. I'm still managing to drive them into 18mm ply and the receiving C24 2 X 9 though. I just put in 600 odd T-nuts and the screws without a cutting tip were a pain (Wera magnetic screw holder made this a lot less painful).
Screwfix let me down and I needed to buy a different 13mm wood bit; avoid the Bosch ones with the worm tip like the plague if you're drilling T-nuts. My drill simply couldn't cope with the rate it wanted to progress. Thankfully it had a hex shank and the impact driver was capable.
TBH I've been really disappointed with my Bosch 18v combi drill and impact driver.
Call me soft but I've bought ear defenders (my Dad has occupational deafness), wear safety glasses etc at home.
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I grew up with my dad never wearing safety specs, gloves or ear defenders. Always using angle grinders, bench grinders etc...
8 years working offshore, getting regular hearing tests and the odd bit of tinnitus and I'm now a dust mask wearing, ear defending, eye protecting kind of guy. You only have one set of ears (well, the inner ear hearing thingmy whatever its called.
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I grew up with my dad never wearing safety specs, gloves or ear defenders. Always using angle grinders, bench grinders etc...
8 years working offshore, getting regular hearing tests and the odd bit of tinnitus and I'm now a dust mask wearing, ear defending, eye protecting kind of guy. You only have one set of ears (well, the inner ear hearing thingmy whatever its called.
... As well as one set of lungs, eyes, fingers etc... I'm always paranoid of dusty environments so almost always wear a mask, the stuff gets everywhere even with decent extraction
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Father in law was a model maker for many major films in the 80’s on until CGI took over (Labyrinth, American Werewolf etc..) and has bad lungs from all the solvents and stuff used in the studio and on set.
He also has lots of tales about Hollywood stars and a working environment with coke breaks. Think fag breaks but the white stuff 😀
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I grew up with my dad never wearing safety specs, gloves or ear defenders. Always using angle grinders, bench grinders etc...
8 years working offshore, getting regular hearing tests and the odd bit of tinnitus and I'm now a dust mask wearing, ear defending, eye protecting kind of guy. You only have one set of ears (well, the inner ear hearing thingmy whatever its called.
... As well as one set of lungs, eyes, fingers etc... I'm always paranoid of dusty environments so almost always wear a mask, the stuff gets everywhere even with decent extraction
I had always assumed that plain sawdust was pretty inert, but heard this year it can be nasty too? I've got a cartridge type mask, but should really order some new filters.
Wonder if they're as hard to come by as the black nitrile gloves are just now!
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I grew up with my dad never wearing safety specs, gloves or ear defenders. Always using angle grinders, bench grinders etc...
8 years working offshore, getting regular hearing tests and the odd bit of tinnitus and I'm now a dust mask wearing, ear defending, eye protecting kind of guy. You only have one set of ears (well, the inner ear hearing thingmy whatever its called.
... As well as one set of lungs, eyes, fingers etc... I'm always paranoid of dusty environments so almost always wear a mask, the stuff gets everywhere even with decent extraction
I had always assumed that plain sawdust was pretty inert, but heard this year it can be nasty too? I've got a cartridge type mask, but should really order some new filters.
Wonder if they're as hard to come by as the black nitrile gloves are just now!
I've found most consumables pretty difficult to come by easily this year!
I'm pretty sure all wood dust is hazardous and can be carcinogenic by all accounts. It simply not pleasant to breathe in and is rather not take a punt!
I bought a full head mask (trend airshield pro) thing with a motor on it but it's a right faff so mostly just use the 3m sealed masks, they're very good actually.
I wonder how many people have never changed the filters on those things!
Father in law was a model maker for many major films in the 80’s on until CGI took over (Labyrinth, American Werewolf etc..) and has bad lungs from all the solvents and stuff used in the studio and on set.
He also has lots of tales about Hollywood stars and a working environment with coke breaks. Think fag breaks but the white stuff 😀
Ha, I bet they're some good stories! I saw the Labyrinth a couple of weeks ago with the kids, absolute classic! Ahead of its time 👌
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The one thing I didn't have on yesterday as Captain PPE was a dusty mask and I found myself spluttering only to turn around and find the track saw had spat the dust bag off!
:chair:
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Trawling through ~50 pages of information seems a touch overwhelming right now, particularly for a single question: what sheet materials do people use? 18mm Plywood (hardwood or softwood), OSB3, etc. etc.?
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18mm birch ply is industry standard and best but 2x ish price of bog standard stuff. 'hardwood' ply is typically softwood inner plys with a wafer thin hardwood veneer on the faces. Any 18mm ply fine really but I'd say it's worth getting sheets with smooth faces (ie. not sheathing ply) and semi-decent quality so it's not full of voids. OSB or any chip board type sheet not really up to the job - screws will tend to pull out.
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Look out for 'marine ply' which is usually very high quality. It's not cheap but you usually get what you pay for with plywood.
18mm birch ply is industry standard and best but 2x ish price of bog standard stuff. 'hardwood' ply is typically softwood inner plys with a wafer thin hardwood veneer on the faces. Any 18mm ply fine really but I'd say it's worth getting sheets with smooth faces (ie. not sheathing ply) and semi-decent quality so it's not full of voids. OSB or any chip board type sheet not really up to the job - screws will tend to pull out.
I once had an incorrect delivery of OSB so I decided to make a little 15° wall with it, never had any problems! I wouldn't want it on a steeper wall though! 😬😬
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Right on, thanks for the clarity chaps!
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Right on, thanks for the clarity chaps!
I could only get softwood shuttering/structural ply from wickes back in the first lockdown - rancid stuff!
Marine is great, but any good quality WBP will have plenty of glue and strength.
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I was given some pre-T nutted OSB, and on my 26 deg board I've never had a screw pull out or any other issues. It's not the best stuff to climb on, but it's a lot better than I expected, and the surface has a bit more friction than ply. If I was starting from scratch I'd go ply though.
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Heating options....
Our garage is:
- Large (36m^2 with a pitched roof)
- Leaky (not damp, but a wind whistles through the gap between the roller door and the lintel
- Uninsulated
We've not needed any until now, so realistically it's going to be 4 moths of the year, 2/3 sessions a week. Google says 10KW is about what's required. Our garage supply is not great, it suffers voltage drop even with 2kw connected...
What's the gas use like with a small garage heater? I've seen a few propane ones on gumtree.
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Heating options....
Our garage is:
- Large (36m^2 with a pitched roof)
- Leaky (not damp, but a wind whistles through the gap between the roller door and the lintel
- Uninsulated
No idea about gas, sorry. I’d be thinking about insulation/ gap filling. https://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-genius-insulation-foam-hand-held-750ml/25943?tc=DB9&ds_kid=92700058176434284&ds_rl=1249416&gclid=CjwKCAiAwrf-BRA9EiwAUWwKXoucne93XaWHsWNvPS6ohZtfpbIhbLTdQNHQW5W2EcoX1iFEBX2DkhoCAYAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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It's totally free standing and separate from the house, so has no heat source whatsoever.
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Andy Popps board was in a double garage - and he had one of these in there (or something like it)
(https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/images/products/01/010410021/F4339170-F9EF-4AAC-A65B-F463819F3B01-huge.jpg)
It wasn't at all toasty from memory - but standing near it while resting was alot nicer than without... Though I think these heaters can lead to condensation a bit etc... (from student house memories...)
EDIT: Seems you can get a 10kw fan assisted space heater for less than a ton (make sure they come with the regulator and gas hose though..)
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In my experience, portable heaters are good when immediately alongside, but the heat is near imperceptible from more than a few feet away. Worthwhile to warm fingertips between goes but don't expect to feel comfortable!
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Just had a session there, got well warmed up inside first and it wasn't too bad, so might hold off. Wood holds at least don't feel too cold!
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For the cold just treat it a bit like an outdoor session; down and thermals etc. Keeps me plenty warm enough during a session.
Main issue for me atm is humidity. When it's up in the 90s several holds feel really damp from condensation, particularly those made of oak. I've been told that open grain woods like oak are bad for this, whereas closed grains like beech are much more resistant.
A friend who has a similar shed based board told me he put his space heater in the shed for an hour before a session and it dropped the humidity down 18%...worth a go I reckon.
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so realistically it's going to be 4 moths of the year, 2/3 sessions a week.
Not sure small insects flapping about will help much.
I've got one of these type things plugged into an extension lead.
https://www.outdoorcampingdirect.uk/benross-400w-ptc-plug-in-heater-with-led-display-black.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxdrq1bvO7QIVlJ3VCh26ywrfEAQYBCABEgKoS_D_BwE
enough heat to warm hands and shoes up a wee bit, but not much else.
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so realistically it's going to be 4 moths of the year, 2/3 sessions a week.
Not sure small insects flapping about will help much.
I've got one of these type things plugged into an extension lead.
https://www.outdoorcampingdirect.uk/benross-400w-ptc-plug-in-heater-with-led-display-black.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxdrq1bvO7QIVlJ3VCh26ywrfEAQYBCABEgKoS_D_BwE
enough heat to warm hands and shoes up a wee bit, but not much else.
I've ordered moth balls. 50mm, beech, just needed to holes in them and now they're great foot holds.
Currently just using my 2KW heat gun as a shoe-warmer and occasional hand warmer if really cold. Goot use what you got eh?
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Aye, goot to.
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Andy Popps board was in a double garage - and he had one of these in there (or something like it)
(https://dccf75d8gej24.cloudfront.net/images/products/01/010410021/F4339170-F9EF-4AAC-A65B-F463819F3B01-huge.jpg)
It wasn't at all toasty from memory - but standing near it while resting was alot nicer than without...
Yes, sounds like a very similar scenario: uninsulated, free standing double garage with pitched roof. We used a heater just. as pictured by Tom, just off to the side of the board. It definitely helped, even if it could still get very cold in there sometimes. I think the board would have been unusable on occasion without. Cold feet were a bigger problem than cold hands to be honest. We probably got through a couple of bottles of gas a winter, so it wasn't expensive.
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I'm in the same camp as Bradders. My board is in the shed with no heating or insulation, so just layer up and warm up and you'll be fine., Although cold feet can be an issue on proper cold nights.
On a cold damp winter day I'd be concerned that the sudden temp rise from switching a heater on would lead to condensation. In the shed it's really noticeable when a warm front comes in after a cold spell. My resin holds go to shit but wooden holds are generally ok.
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On a cold damp winter day I'd be concerned that the sudden temp rise from switching a heater on would lead to condensation. In the shed it's really noticeable when a warm front comes in after a cold spell. My resin holds go to shit but wooden holds are generally ok.
My instinct was the same, but I think it's such a dry heat it actually does the opposite and dries everything out. I bought this thing a couple weeks ago; stick it on low for an hour and everything will be dry, even where they were really pretty wet before.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08HM1Q4T9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Om2Fb1G4X5CJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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On a cold damp winter day I'd be concerned that the sudden temp rise from switching a heater on would lead to condensation.
Mine has been fine (unheated) until last session when my good lady required the garage door closing. It didn't take long for conditions to go to :shit:
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Those of you who have a board in a shed, how big is your shed and what size and angle is your board.
I’m being told my board won’t fit in the garage so the missus is suggesting a shed or cabin thing instead.
Any advice or thoughts thanks.
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Those of you who have a board in a shed, how big is your shed and what size and angle is your board.
I’m being told my board won’t fit in the garage so the missus is suggesting a shed or cabin thing instead.
Any advice or thoughts thanks.
You have a board already? If so, shed needs to be: size of board + a bit. HTH. :smartass:
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I have the boards that were a 16 foot wide and 12 high or length of board. It’s been a 40 degree board twice of a 45 degree board once. I was thinking that sheds tend to come in standard sizes, so hence my question.
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I wanted a house with a garage. We did not get one, so that meant converting a small Victorian brick outhouse into a big enough shed for a board. It was originally constructed over the party wall in the garden, with a mirror image version on the neighbours’ side. This meant quite a few constraints on what we could do, eg max roof height was not alterable, so we dug below ground to sit the board low enough.
It has a 10’’ kickboard, 9’ of board, then a tiny soffit where the top edge rests on a cross beam of 2x4 and some finishing holds 6’’ above. 7’ wide. This works really well. I would like more area, but at approx 10’ x 7x’ at 40*, I don’t really need it.
The shed is 7’6’’ wide and about 12’ long. The door opens facing the board - there is about 6’ of space between it and the opposite wall to sit/ swing into. I put a little vertical board on the side wall for warming up. Obviously this means I cannot get behind the board from inside, so there is an external hatch in the side of the shed I can open and squeeze through behind the board to get garden tools etc
Hope that all makes sense.
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What is the ceiling height of the shed.
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8’6. But there is a stepped floor so the board starts 16’’ lower. The effective height of the board is 9’
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I have the boards that were a 16 foot wide and 12 high or length of board. It’s been a 40 degree board twice of a 45 degree board once. I was thinking that sheds tend to come in standard sizes, so hence my question.
I was in a similar boat, had a board and wanted to get a shed to go around it. The problem I found was that the standard build sheds didn't really fit the dimensions (not tall enough) and the ones of the floor size I needed were more expensive than hiring a joiner to just come and do a full custom build. So I went with the latter on the basis it would be better to have something purpose built for the job.
I've a concrete slab for foundations, 4.5m x 3.5m.
The shed footprint is 4.3m x 3.3m.
And then inside I have 2 boards facing each other, 1 at 45 which is 3m wide, 2.4m high, 2.4m deep with 3.3m of climbing surface. No kicker or finishing vert section so you're on the steep the whole time.
Then opposite I have a 25 degree overhang. Same width. 2.3m climbing surface plus a 20cm vert bit at the top for fingerboards.
There's less than 50cm between the top of the two boards which you would think would make you feel like you were going to hit your head but in practice it feels fine.
Don't know if that helps?!
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Did you have to get planning for your mega shed Bradders?
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Also if you don’t mind, how much did it cost. Any pictures of the shed as well thanks.
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Did you have to get planning for your mega shed Bradders?
Think it’s down to the footprint area relative to your house footprint? Also conservation are etc... but as it’s a temporary structure that no one is going to live in I don’t think it’s normally an issue?
Anyway - haven’t our libertarian rulers decided to rip up most of the manuscript panning regs? :)
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Sorry - random musings - I guess getting someone to build the shed/structure for the board means you can integrate some of the wall supporting structure into the structure of the shed - and vice versa? Probably an advantage...
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Sorry - random musings - I guess getting someone to build the shed/structure for the board means you can integrate some of the wall supporting structure into the structure of the shed - and vice versa? Probably an advantage...
Kind of wat I was thinking with my flippant and not very helpful post. If you have boards, there's your structure, build a wall round it and put a roof on.
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Did you have to get planning for your mega shed Bradders?
Think it’s down to the footprint area relative to your house footprint? Also conservation are etc... but as it’s a temporary structure that no one is going to live in I don’t think it’s normally an issue?
Anyway - haven’t our libertarian rulers decided to rip up most of the manuscript panning regs? :)
No, rules are here, it's mainly height that's the issue especially for a climbing wall, with 2.5m max if you're close to a boundary.
https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings
May have pushed the limit slightly on height at the very apex of the roof but only by a few centimetres.
Sorry - random musings - I guess getting someone to build the shed/structure for the board means you can integrate some of the wall supporting structure into the structure of the shed - and vice versa? Probably an advantage...
Yes correct. It's not going to fall over any time soon!!
Also if you don’t mind, how much did it cost. Any pictures of the shed as well thanks.
About £4,500 including all the labour and materials for the shed itself. Thinking about it the standard build sheds were a bit less than that, like £3-3,500 but you'd have had to have extra work done to improve the weight bearing of the structure, which would have added to it. And they weren't tall enough.
Don't have any good pics actually but will get some today.
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Sorry - random musings - I guess getting someone to build the shed/structure for the board means you can integrate some of the wall supporting structure into the structure of the shed - and vice versa? Probably an advantage...
Kind of wat I was thinking with my flippant and not very helpful post. If you have boards, there's your structure, build a wall round it and put a roof on.
However the structure will be at the front of the house, so it has to look ok especially for my other half. Although we are the last house in the row and back on to fields the neighbours will be able to see it from their front window.
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Working with the shape of the woodie could result in something much more interesting than a rectangular box.
(https://i2.wp.com/www.urbangardensweb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Shed1.jpg)
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Planning a garage woody (YYFY), how little space can I get away with between the top of the board and the wall (the wall that is behind you as you climb?). Happy to shove a pad against the wall or whatever, but how close is too close?
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Personally I would make the climbing space as big as possible and if you dab the walk at the top of problems so be it. Don't sacrifice wall area as hitting a vertical wall won't be much of an issue especially if you pad it. Also it is far easier to make the wall smaller than trying to make it larger...
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Currently for a 45 board, which is optimal for length of climbing, i'd have about 0.5m to swing. There is a bit of a window there too, but it is double glazed.
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I would say 0.5m would be enough even cutting loose. I currently have a tool box and various other hard things roughly the same distance from the end of my 50° board and very rarely hit them.
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I found the problem more to be when you pop off a hold unexpectedly. But a pad propped up behind you should avoid an holes in wall or your head.
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Great, thanks. Good point about making it smaller being easier than making it taller.
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There is a bit of a window there
This made me smile as I’ve been editing footage of you climbing this week usin the phrase “there’s a bit of a bird here”. ;D
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Ha, I remember that bird... :2thumbsup: Got to get strong for some more adventures over there!
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Just a shout out to everyone in this thread for all the info on board building/hold recommendations/setting etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/bRqdDat.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/A2xe1JU.jpg)
I've got wooden holds from https://www.strongholds.co.uk/ (made by rginns on here) on there and can highly recommend them, beautifully made and super tendon friendly shapes to train on. All the resin holds are from Holdz which seem nice too, but I've only had a quick session so far.
It was destined to be an indoor board when I ordered all the materials, but further negotiations meant it ended up in the garden, will have to see how the cheap ply holds up! It's going to have to come down in the summer anyway to make way for an extension, but may see if I can move it into an outdoor office I'm thinking of putting at the bottom of the garden.
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It was destined to be an indoor board when I ordered all the materials, but further negotiations meant it ended up in the garden,
:lol: looks good, those oak holds are nice!
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Like the grain on the ply csl. And Ricks holds.
What’s the height above the deck?
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It was destined to be an indoor board when I ordered all the materials, but further negotiations meant it ended up in the garden, will have to see how the cheap ply holds up! It's going to have to come down in the summer anyway to make way for an extension, but may see if I can move it into an outdoor office I'm thinking of putting at the bottom of the garden.
I used cheapo ply to build my board that went up in the garden april. It's going a bit bouldy round the edges but otherwise ok, I reckon yours will be fine until summer.
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Like the grain on the ply csl. And Ricks holds.
What’s the height above the deck?
It's 2.5m to the top holds vertically - was aiming for a 40º overhang but it's ended up more like 42º
It was destined to be an indoor board when I ordered all the materials, but further negotiations meant it ended up in the garden,
:lol: looks good, those oak holds are nice!
Thanks! It's such a novelty having a board in the garden, I got all the weeding and leaf clearing I'd been ignoring done during my rest periods yesterday :lol:
It was destined to be an indoor board when I ordered all the materials, but further negotiations meant it ended up in the garden, will have to see how the cheap ply holds up! It's going to have to come down in the summer anyway to make way for an extension, but may see if I can move it into an outdoor office I'm thinking of putting at the bottom of the garden.
I used cheapo ply to build my board that went up in the garden april. It's going a bit bouldy round the edges but otherwise ok, I reckon yours will be fine until summer.
Thanks Remus, yeah and it's relatively sheltered in the orientation I chose so that's good to hear!
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I like your single violently orange hold, alone in a sea of brown and black :lol:
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Just a shout out to everyone in this thread for all the info on board building/hold recommendations/setting etc.
Brilliant, looks like I could probably square this away for my back garden.
I'm not completely inept at DIY but quick question, how have you got the angle braced between wall and kick board? Those metal things *insert technical name*?
Thanks
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Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.
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Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.
Cheers. Quick Google search delivered angle bracket as the name of the things I meant.
Just need to convince the kids that I have to repurpose their wood frame swings (DIY & overbuilt) for a wall.
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Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.
Cheers. Quick Google search delivered angle bracket as the name of the things I meant.
Just need to convince the kids that I have to repurpose their wood frame swings (DIY & overbuilt) for a wall.
Good idea - I looked at using an off the shelf wood framed swing / or in particular the steel bracelets to bolt the timbers together at the top of the a frame / as a quick woody support fix.
In the end I could bolt mine to existing beams.
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Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.
The only caveat I would add to this is if you are going to build a less steep board and be using undercuts quite a bit. Then the kickboard takes quite a lot of force. More than body weight since you are pulling down into your feet. Mine creaks a bit when using undercuts, so it is probably worth making pretty robust. Maybe less of an issue on steeper boards or if not using undercuts a lot.
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I like your single violently orange hold, alone in a sea of brown and black :lol:
I ordered a bunch of black holds from Holdz and they put in the bright orange jug as a freebie, really messed with my colour scheme!Just a shout out to everyone in this thread for all the info on board building/hold recommendations/setting etc.
Brilliant, looks like I could probably square this away for my back garden.
I'm not completely inept at DIY but quick question, how have you got the angle braced between wall and kick board? Those metal things *insert technical name*?
Thanks
I've got the offcuts from where I cut the joists in there - so just a triangle of 2x4 every 40cm or so screwed into the deck and then the kickboard screws into them.
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I've got the offcuts from where I cut the joists in there - so just a triangle of 2x4 every 40cm or so screwed into the deck and then the kickboard screws into them.
Offcuts - that's a canny idea. Thanks
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Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?
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I can't remember if it was on here or elsewhere but I discussed this with someone recently and open grained wooden holds (Oak?) were meant to be worse than others. Certainly on my board, I've got one hold that I suspect is Oak and it's worse than the others and you can clearly see darkness in the grain when the humidity is high. Sorry, that doesn't really help.
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I have a a bag of cat litter stashed in the garage to work as a dehumidifier, a fan and a fan heater that go on whenever I use the board. Also find it helps to brush all the holds on a problem with a bit of chalk in this weather. Problems often feel crap on the first couple of goes and then the chalk seems to bed in and the holds feel ok from then on. I would also say the strongholds oak seems worse in the humidity than whatever the hardwood holds are made from which is possibly sapele wood.
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Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?
My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.
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I can't remember if it was on here or elsewhere but I discussed this with someone recently and open grained wooden holds
I recall reading the same comments, so it must have been on here. Unfortunately for me, half my board is oak!
I have a a bag of cat litter stashed in the garage to work as a dehumidifier, a fan and a fan heater that go on whenever I use the board. Also find it helps to brush all the holds on a problem with a bit of chalk in this weather. Problems often feel crap on the first couple of goes and then the chalk seems to bed in and the holds feel ok from then on.
My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely.
Brilliant, I'll look into sourcing a small heater from somewhere.
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On the postive side - you've all got great excuses for having a crap session / sacking it off for netflix and a mount of crisps etc... :D
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I'm sure I've asked this, but can't find it anywhere...
We got a house in December and I'm looking to put a board in somewhere. The attic is big and unused (though relatively low ceilings) so I got a quote to have the floor fully boarded today. The guy (from fairly big but reputable company) who gave the quote said that it should be okay for small impacts like this but they obviously couldn't give any guarantees. It would probably only get used for 2/3 sessions a week so not loads of use.
Board would be approx 2m high so falling height would be approx 1m onto a mat (I'm 70kg). They could either add one additional set of floor joists (2" x 4" beams) or two sets (i.e. raise the floor twice for extra strength).
Obviously it wouldn't be intended to have these forces generated on it, but the guy seemed to think it would be fine, especially if it had two sets of joists added.
I wondered if anyone could add any thoughts before we make a decision? The bedroom walls on the floor below are all stud ones and it's a 1910 Victorian terrace.
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If it's being floored out with standard attic floorboards, get it done anyway, makes the space so much more useable. however, in the landing zone where you are putting your board I'd put down extra support to spread the impact load, even if it's just a thin sheet of ply.
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I bet its fine.... Maybe make sure you use an alright mat though to spread the load a bit...
Edit - Chris idea is good - a bit ply accross the landing zone...
Early warning would be a ceiling plaster crack below?
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It's already partially done (about 1/3) so there's enough for storage but doesn't extend far enough for a board to go anywhere (and probably not strong enough either).
Would be about £1k to get it fully done which seemed a decent price to get it done right into the rafters. Though there would be ample storage at the moment if we weren't putting a board in.
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Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there. A decent jigsaw really helps.
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Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?
My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.
Yeah this was covered a few pages back, and this works for me. Just a simple cheapo space heater for half an hour clears it right out.
And as others have said, closed grain hardwoods are much more resistant (tulip, sapele, cherry, walnut, ash, beech, etc.). In fact the ones I have in those other wood types are so much better that I just avoid oak holds like the plague now.
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Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there. A decent jigsaw really helps.
Is it better to insulate the floor, or the between the rafters? Would have thought for comfort in the winter, it would be nicer if it was up by the rafters? E.G.: https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/roof-and-loft-insulation/#:~:text=An%20alternative%20way%20to%20insulate,insulation%20sprayed%20between%20the%20rafters.
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My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.
Yeah this was covered a few pages back, and this works for me. Just a simple cheapo space heater for half an hour clears it right out.
And as others have said, closed grain hardwoods are much more resistant (tulip, sapele, cherry, walnut, ash, beech, etc.). In fact the ones I have in those other wood types are so much better that I just avoid oak holds like the plague now.
Thanks! I had a heater running for a couple of hours earlier to rid it of moisture, still needs maybe a few hours more tomorrow but it has certainly helped the holds feel more useable! It certainly doesn't help that the shed roof leaks too.
I absolutely love the oak holds, both for their practicality as holds and aesthetically, so I am happy to run a heater in order to use them more often and wait for the better weather when I can open both shed doors and let a good through wind take effect.
That being said, if you want rid of your holds, I will happily take them off your hands!
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I wondered if anyone could add any thoughts before we make a decision? The bedroom walls on the floor below are all stud ones and it's a 1910 Victorian terrace.
Some quick maths if you consider 1No. 100 x 50mm C24 joist as 100% (in terms of bending capacity) putting 2No. side by side, you can get twice as much bending capacity (so 200%) putting 2No. on top (or more realistically buying a bigger section) so 200 x 50mm you're at 400%.
There are two types of failure to consider SLS (nobody likes walking into a building and seeing something structural sagging all over the place, plus doors and stuff become a bit of a pain) and ULS, the first your plaster cracks and falls off, the second you actually have a problem.
I had a board on the first floor of a 1890s property which had lath and plaster ceilings below. That said, there's no way in hell I'll be making that decision for you on an online forum :worms:
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Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there. A decent jigsaw really helps.
Is it better to insulate the floor, or the between the rafters? Would have thought for comfort in the winter, it would be nicer if it was up by the rafters? E.G.: https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/roof-and-loft-insulation/#:~:text=An%20alternative%20way%20to%20insulate,insulation%20sprayed%20between%20the%20rafters.
Given that I assume it will only get used occasionally, it's easier and much cheaper to insulate between rafters and you won't have a (presumably) large loft space to keep warm.
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I’m after advice for something a little bit different. I’ve no room for a woody but I want to make a freestanding kick board to put underneath my FB. It’ll make FB aerocap a bit more interesting than standing on a chair.
The catch is that it needs to fold flat for storage. My best idea is a bit like this:
(https://i.ibb.co/X73ZMbD/89-E48-D2-F-9-D56-45-D8-9-A5-C-CF926-FFB94-D2.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8rdDt0b)
With hinges holding on the 2x4s and ropes cinching it closed. Looks flexible tho. Does anyone have a better cheap solution?
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Stu, that has to be the worst looking, most poorly designed kickboard ever.
So I say go for it, it's perfect for those enjoyable sessions in which time halts, pain is welcome and progress is measured in agony, while the mind is busy choosing between yet another pocket or yet another edge.
Having been there and done that, I'll happily think about you while I snatch a heavy barbell, hit a boxing bag, or effortlessly hang from a small edge with lots of iron in my other hand.
:-*
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Like you say Stu that'll probably be quite flexy. If you'll excuse the shitty drawing:
(https://i.imgur.com/d2Tjxky.png)
Plywood denoted by cross hatch, rest is 2x4. Diagonal section secured with a couple of bolts. Just whip one of the bolts out (so the remaining bolt acts as a pivot) when you want to fold it flat. Should be pretty stiff. The problem I think you're likely to have is that it'll slide around on the floor if you're pressing hard in to the feet, might need a way to brace it against something to stop it moving (or just pile loads of weights on the supports).
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Cheers Remus!
Obvious in retrospect... we’ve got a couple of 20kg weights that we can sit on top of the 2x4 to stop it moving around.
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Old chair with a board screwed to the back of the back of the chair (if that makes sense). Couple of kettlebells on the chair to stop it moving?
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I've added strips of wood to the back of pine bedside drawer unit, with weights in the first drawer. I've used that below a doorway 5 rung campus board for up and down fun!
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Edit, others have answered.
Still think it'll slide even with weights, unless you make the footholds massive or put it directlyunder the fb, in which case it'll topple over toward you?
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Could make triangular brackets that were attached with hinges vertically to the back of the board?
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Don’t think toppling over will be an issue; there’s so much more torque from the weights on the backside.
Sliding might be a problem, but I reckon it’s manageable. We have lots of weight to put on the back if necessary
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wouldn't it be simpler to put the upright in slots created by say, a few bit of 2x4 sited in the middle of the flat plywood? Surely more stable? Then you could just pull your vertical section up and off and lay flat when not in use.
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You can stop it over turning by making the horizontal part of the L longer to increase the restoring moment. Other option would be a H shape in plan with the central bar being an upright.
As I said to Stu elsewhere I think sliding will be the issue but you can overcome that with plenty of mass!
Kudos for motivation.
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Another option to limit sliding would be to put something like a yoga mat underneath it.
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You can stop it over turning by making the horizontal part of the L longer to increase the restoring moment. Other option would be a H shape in plan with the central bar being an upright.
As I said to Stu elsewhere I think sliding will be the issue but you can overcome that with plenty of mass!
Kudos for motivation.
Stu, I ran such a rig myself back in 2010 when living in rented accommodation. My Dad made me an excellent regulation campus board designed to fit in my bedroom doorway on ply brackets. At the bottom of the campus board I had an array of poor screw ons such that I could engage my core/move feet about on the kicker board and partake in some hard cut loose moves on the poor crimps before going into campus drills.
As Paul says above, opt for a 'H' frame to your board - obviously the crossbar of the 'H' being the ply board. The structural matter at the front of the board will greatly stabilise it and prevent you from needing too many weights at the rear of it.
You could also add a piece of ply say 150-200mm on each end of the forward facing members so that you can also move your feet not just in a singular plane but also 'in and out a bit'. Variety is the spice of life after all....
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If the fingerboard is in a doorway, is the obvious choice to extend the support legs out to fit it to doorframe and prevent slideage?
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So... looks like we’re moving house in a few months time and our new abode has three substantial cellar chambers. One has been allocated for me to build a board - and there’s no shortage of floor space (it’s 8 by 5m) but just about 2m of height available.
Floor is a 2-5 cm concrete screed over sand/gravel. Walls are brick - ceiling is plastered - so can’t really go into the joists above for support.
So - it probably has to be free standing (apart from one end - where the side could be bolted/screwed to the wall.
Some options I’ve considered.
1. I could squeeze in a mini moon board (height wise just) which brings a whole range of documented problems etc. But - well I don’t know just quite like the one I’ve built/designed...
2. My own board. Probably go for a 50 - which would give me about 3m up climbing height surface. But - how wide can I go if this is partially free standing? Seen them 2.4m wide with no problem - but could I go further (3.6?) but would that make the span of the top a bit long - and possibly a bit bendy. Also quite a lot of weight on the far leg supporting the free end.
3. There is also a single garage I could probably requisition - that has a pitched (asbestos) roof and is taller (2.4m in middle) - but would be much colder in winter and much hotter in summer. And also means a short walk outside to get to (and have to run electrics out to it etc..).
Got plenty of time to plan/think about it - but now seems a good time to start. Thoughts/views on the above?
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You can go through plasterboard into the joist above, I'll send you a pic of how I did it in the garage using L brackets and bolts.
If the floor is reasonably flat, I'd recommend putting down some of the interlocking foam gym flooring, makes a lot of difference to comfort.
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Your option 3 sounds similar to what I'm about to undertake, Tom. Unattached single garage with no power - yet. I imagine I'll need it soon for fans or heaters. I'm going 2.4 wide, and 2.9 long, 45 degrees (simpler for a dimwit like me), plus 30cm kicker. Freestanding.
Lots of useful info on here btw, so thanks everyone. :thumbsup:
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2. My own board. Probably go for a 50 - which would give me about 3m up climbing height surface. But - how wide can I go if this is partially free standing? Seen them 2.4m wide with no problem - but could I go further (3.6?) but would that make the span of the top a bit long - and possibly a bit bendy. Also quite a lot of weight on the far leg supporting the free end.
I imagine Paul will be along in a sec to say im totally wrong and you'll definitely die, but 3.6m span should be doable. 3.6m is a standard length for timber which is convenient, though I guess you might struggle to maneuver something that big down in to the cellar. My current board only has a single 2x4 across the top 2.4m span, it flexes a little but not enough to be annoying. A doubled up 2x4 should provide plenty of stiffness.
The other option would be supporting the whole shebang off the back wall or the ceiling.
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With that floor space your board could go into a roof:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVFd5xZDxlY
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Tom, you could put your own joists in, spanned wall to wall and flush fitted. Fix your board timbers (the 50s) into these and fixed the bottom ends into the base of the wall. It shouldn't move an inch. You can get away with surprisingly very few joists, every 8 foot. The board won't be pulling straight down on them, but pulling down and pushing into the wall. Top of the board will need a 2x4 to take most of the flex out. And run a few timbers from the middle of the board back to the wall to take flex out of the middle of board. Easy job. TimP's board was built this way.
edit.. that was my 1000th post.. I'm now a Wood abuser apparently :blink: :whistle:
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Cheers Remus & Probes.
Hopefully exchanging in a week - then 6-9 months of building work before we move in - I’ll get some pics when we get the keys.
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I imagine Paul will be along in a sec to say im totally wrong and you'll definitely die, but 3.6m span should be doable. 3.6m is a standard length for timber which is convenient, though I guess you might struggle to maneuver something that big down in to the cellar. My current board only has a single 2x4 across the top 2.4m span, it flexes a little but not enough to be annoying. A doubled up 2x4 should provide plenty of stiffness.
I haven't had time to read this in detail but you can span WTF you like with the right member; see bridges. ;D
In general, the wider they are, the more work your supports are doing but this isn't insurmountable.
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With T-nut spacing, is 20cm offset/diamond still the knowledge? Then plugging gaps with screw-on holds.
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Depends. If you want to reset regularly then use T nuts and yes I think 20cm is standard.
If you won't be resetting and want more of a fixed board set up, don't bother with T nuts. Holds with bolt holes can just be screwed on easily with large screws and washers. Saves a lot of initial faff.
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You can also get things called lonestars https://www.climbingwallservices.com/shop/hardware-and-tools/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5/
But T nut might be cheaper.
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Depends. If you want to reset regularly then use T nuts and yes I think 20cm is standard.
If you won't be resetting and want more of a fixed board set up, don't bother with T nuts. Holds with bolt holes can just be screwed on easily with large screws and washers. Saves a lot of initial faff.
This ^^
I Tnutted bits of mine intially - now don't use them at all (apart from 4 holds). All screwed on.
I also made the apparent cardinal sin of not drilling or putting Tnuts on before putting my ply up - and that wasnt a problem either!
What does help is drawing a 10 or 20 cm grid on the ply (pencil etc..) - makes it easier to set holds at the same level - esp if you want to mirror things.
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Cheers. The flexibility to reset might be good (the kids might use the wall a bit on jugs) - hard to say in advance, and the grid idea sounds good regardless. I'm hoping it'll be part woodie, part climbing wall hybrid in style. I'll have a think, but sounds like 20cm it is if I do drill it.
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Cheers. The flexibility to reset might be good (the kids might use the wall a bit on jugs) - hard to say in advance, and the grid idea sounds good regardless. I'm hoping it'll be part woodie, part climbing wall hybrid in style. I'll have a think, but sounds like 20cm it is if I do drill it.
I drilled mine - then placed Tnuts as required (I had access around the back - and you can use the hold/bolt to wind them in rather than having to bash them in...)
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Rear access probably won't be too easy once the panels are on so I think I need to decide beforehand. Haven't started yet though; I just own a lot of wood and screws etc. at the moment ...
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Use the type which you pin. They're so much better!
https://coreclimbing.co.uk/buy-fixings/fixings/m1-t-nuts/round-t-nuts-100/
It's easier to not have clashes between your T-nuts and joists without an offset grid.
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If you aren't buying a massive amount, go for the ones Paul suggests.
My experience with the toothed type though is I only got the occasional "spinner" the first time I used them, and they are fine after they are well bedded in, so worth getting a hold and tightening it and removing it from each one before putting the panel up if you go down that route, and don't have access to the back.
Kids were full of enthusiasm and set problems for themselves on our the first while it was up, but have totally lost interest now. Their probs are still up as warm ups though.
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Cheers everybody, I'm from Switzerland and have been lurking on here occasionally, and since I've taken a lot of inspiration from this thread I thought I'd share my build and experiences for others.
I built the board when the first lockdown ended in early summer and hardware stores reopened. Not really because I anticipated the pandemic would continue this long, but because the nearest climbing gyms in Zurich are quite crowded and none had a proper board. The board is located outside on our flat's terrace. I must say I slightly overestimated my motivation to go outside to boulder when the temperatures are around 0 degrees in the middle of winter ;)
I followed the basic rules: build as big a board as you can fit, and build a small kicker for anything steeper than 30 degrees. Climbing on other boards I normally prefer 40 degrees to 45, but still went with 45 degrees due to the additional climbing space. My girlfriend was a bit sceptical about the steepness, but in hindsight we'd probably do the same again.
The kicker is about 18cm. Given the standard ply sheet sizing the kicker and the top bit fit naturally. I am quite happy about the vertical top section, as it is nice to have a row of top holds at a moderate angle. The frame is built from 60 x 120 mm construction timber. I didn't add any horizontal fixings to the frame. The bottom is not fixed, it just rests on the floor. I went for the weather-resistant coated 15mm ply (18mm was sold out and 23mm too expensive and heavy). Even though 18 mm is probably the best middle ground, the 15 mm ply doesn't really flex except in one place where the sheets are farthest from the supports. The only one who complained has been a friend of mine who is a bit on the heavier side ;)
Since the board is mostly sheltered, I went with Zinc coated T-nuts and bolts. I don't think stainless is worth the extra cost. Same for the screw-in T-nuts, I just used the cheap hammer-in ones and haven't had a spinner yet. The 20cm grid spacing on commercial boards felt a bit too wide, so I halved it and went with 10 cm, which is a bit too dense. Next time I'd choose 15cm, which is probably the best middle ground given the average hold size.
We didn't really spend a lot of time looking for holds and just ordered a bunch from Hardwood Holds in the darker Sapele wood in addition to a few resin holds we already had. Since the wooden holds are quite slick and really condition dependent (much better when humid), I regretted ordering quite as many and have by now sold or swapped quite a few for resin holds. They were quite nice when it was warm outside, but especially when it was getting colder the slickness made warming up difficult. Having some variation is nice, although this may be just my excuse for being weak.
In hindsight, I think the mirrored layout is a bit gimmicky and limiting setting more than it is effective, and I probably wouldn't do it again. My other half absolutely loves it though. As others have stated, having different colored feet for setting problems is great. The whole thing ended up being more pricy than I thought. It ended up being about the yearly gym membership fee for the both of us.
Sorry for the long post - I hope this is helpful to others planning a build of their own. I dread the day we have to move out of this apartment and I have to tear the thing down. There's more pictures here (https://imgur.com/a/on48KIi).
(https://imgur.com/v17FpF9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o2halXI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tZTCkoZ.jpg)
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Nice. That’s some DIY job you did there.
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That’s a great looking board! If you aren’t a fan of the sym setup, fill in the spaces with random holds. Best of both worlds for the two of you.
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Nice! Thanks for sharing.
Sounds like hardwoods aren't the best for home board setups.
Most of my holds are homemade and therefore softwoods and I find then much less slippy than the resin holds I have.
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Sounds like hardwoods aren't the best for outside home board setups.
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I have a bunch of hardwood on mine outside and they're fine. Think the condensation thing some folk mentioned may be more of an issue in unheated sheds?
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I have a bunch of hardwood on mine outside and they're fine. Think the condensation thing some folk mentioned may be more of an issue in unheated sheds?
Yes, needs some airflow or warmth to stop it. And some hardwoods do a lot better than others.
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That's a great looking board. I'd be paranoid about that window though!
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That's a great looking board. I'd be paranoid about that window though!
There have been a few near-misses - we tend to favor the left side. One reason why I'm not super sold on the symmetric layout.
The sapele holds are great in bad conditions - heat, sweaty fingers, immediately after rain. They were great during summer. When it's cold and dry, they are slippery and require a lot of active holding. A couple of problems I managed to send during a rainy spell in late summer I haven't been able to repeat since, I keep dry firing of the crimps. I agree they probably work better on indoor walls. I'm tempted to go over some of the slicker holds with 80 grit sandpaper.
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Can you slip a pad in the gap?
Sounds like you are experiencing classic sticky damp conditions!
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I’ve done that - taken the slick of some holds with some sandpaper..
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Can you slip a pad in the gap?
Sounds like you are experiencing classic sticky damp conditions!
Yes, I could stick a pad in there, there's still enough space to stand in the gap or open the door. Mostly we've resigned to problems being harder because there's less space for feet. We thought about padding the edge as hitting it in a fall is the more serious risk (hanging the small pad there was a half-hearted attempt). But since I now have to work in the room behind the board due to lockdown, I don't want to block more light. We usually train at the same time, so spotting has worked ok for now.
Thanks for the kind words everyone.
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So kickboard or no kickboard. 40 degree board . If no kicker how high do you put the first footholds.
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So kickboard or no kickboard. 40 degree board . If no kicker how high do you put the first footholds.
I put a small (20-25cm?) kicker on mine. Just made putting the first footholds easy. Makes it a bit easier avoiding heels on mats.
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Same here. 40* board, 25cm kick board, slightly overhanging, inclined about~10*
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I've had two 45s, one with a kickboard and now without. Firmly convinced they're unnecessary. I can start just as low if not lower on the board without a kicker than I could before (e.g. on really low underclings), and you're on the steep the whole time so no temptation to lank up off the feet on the kicker etc.
Didn't have any problems putting the lowest row of feet on. If there's enough space for your foot that's plenty to get a drill in.
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So kickboard or no kickboard. 40 degree board . If no kicker how high do you put the first footholds.
I'm firmly in the no kicker camp. On my 45°, the bottom row of feet are 12cm from the ground to the top of the footholds.
With a sitstart pad, this is the minimum height I can get away with before heels get in the way.
I sometimes find a start where I want to move the sitstart pad out of the way. So I would go for 14cm to be safe if I was starting again or a bit more if you have huge feet.
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40 with no kicker - can't say I've regretted the absence.
The T-nuts / centres of the lowest footholds are 24cm along the board surface from the base, so around 18.5cm vertical height above the floor. No problems with feet hitting the floor but the odd "heel dab" on the edge of the mat if I don't take care.
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Easier to add one in if you think you need one than to remove if you put one in.
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Easier to add one in if you think you need one than to remove if you put one in.
Zen and the art of board manufacturing!
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Take away from the board until there is nothing left to take, not even the board itself. If you can still climbing on it in your mind you have reached true enlightenment.
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No kicker then. However given how I feel this morning after spending most of yesterday getting the frame up, it might be some time before I can use it. ;D
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No kicker then. However given how I feel this morning after spending most of yesterday getting the frame up, it might be some time before I can use it. ;D
Ha! Building my board was much more of a work out than any session I’ve had on t since!
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The kicker makes starts easier. It also reduces intensity on circuits. Whether that’s useful is up to you.
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Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.
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Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30905.msg617926.html#msg617926
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Thanks for that. I did give Sids a stir in the bottle and it looks better but I don’t remember it being brown when I bought it. :sick:
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Board now finished. As the garage doubles as a laundry at times I need to cut down on my chalk use. What’s the best liquid stuff, I’ve got a couple of old bottles of Sids jizz but when I tried to squeeze some out. It was worse than jizz.
When Carlisle Slapper had his 'bed' board he had an Ikea (?) laundry basket that was material with a spring type structure and a slit in the top. The chalk bucket lived in that so you could chalk up in the basket without making clouds of dust.
Something like this:
https://www.flipkart.com/home-nilkamal-60-l-yellow-laundry-bag/p/itm1d5967353febf
Chairmen of the Board:
https://vimeo.com/2795225
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I fairly sure that it’s the brushing of holds that causes chalk to get everywhere. Two of my boards had the space above boarded out for storage and everything was covered in chalk. Also my boards were in storage for two months and been sat in the garage for a further 8 months and the back or none climbing side were white with chalk when I got them out to use. That isn’t going to get like that from rubbing your fingers in a bag.
So I’m thinking liquid chalk will not leave so much chalk on the holds so much so less brushing.
Actually the plan is just to leave a bottle of liquid chalk on the window ledge and claim that’s what I use and carry on as normal just remembering to blow off the surfaces with the fan when I’ve finished.
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You’re exactly right about LC not leaving much residue on the holds (wooden ones at least on mine) and thus making a mess. I hoovered the mats underneath every couple of weeks at first - but now every 6 weeks or so (its in the spare bedroom and home office - so if it was a problem dust / chalk would be noticed by MrsTT - its not yet). I’m a total convert for my board.. much less mess - and after the initial application, it only requires a drop smeared across the tips every few goes to keep it going.
Its been up 9 months now - used at least twice a week...
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Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?
Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.
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Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?
Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.
Mine's 12 foot by 8 foot and just short of 7 foot high (it's a pent shed rather than an apex if that means anything to you). Small kickboard, 45 degrees. There are some 2 move problems (3 if you include matching the top), but most things are 4 or 5 moves long. Still plenty of storage space for lawnmower, gardening stuff, etc. Fingerboard and TRX mount in the doorway.
Only issue I've found so far is damp/condensation, as roofing felt isn't great. I'm getting the roof replaced in spring with an EPDM membrane (same stuff as pond liners).
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Power shedTM owners - what sort of size shed am I looking at to get a decent woodie in, something like 45degree 3 - 5 moves?
Looking at buying our first house, ideally want a garage but if not the power shed seems like the way to go. Would need a bit of storage space in there for bouldering mats, lawn mower etc.
Having recently been in the same position, I'd say a shed is perhaps even better than a garage; means you can be more flexible with the house you're actually buying and can tailor the space to your needs.
Anyway, for a 45 if you max out the height you're allowed without getting planning permission you want the shed to be at least 3m long x as wide as you can go to get max width of the board.
My shed footprint is 4.3m x 3.3m but it's only longer so I could get an extra 25 degree board in opposite the 45.
45 dimensions are 3m wide, 2.4m high, 2.4m deep with 3.3m of climbing surface. No kicker or finishing vert section so you're on the steep the whole time. Problems going straight up tend to be 3 moves as a minimum, but more usually 4-6 if on small holds etc. Then due to the width there are lots going side to side, think longest I've made so far is 10 moves but could definitely go longer.
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And on condensation, get it insulated from the start. Retro fitting it is a right faff. Plus some decent ventilation.
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People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?
Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.
I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.
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I try not to, I don't like the look of screw hole-riddled ply. If I do move some and tweak the arrangement, then something will usually go in the same place to cover it. I have more holds than I have space on the board though, so I can usually find or make a hold to occupy a space.
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Nope. Barely moved mine. Still looks clean and fine. (It’s nearly a year old!!!)
But (a) I’m not LP (b) my board isn’t anything like as densely spaced.
It does get used 3 or 4 times a week though...
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People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?
Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.
I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.
Hey Bradders
I have had my board for around 5 years now and have reset it 2 or 3 times as well as more minor moving around of things. Mainly as I have improved/ expanded hold set and gained a bit more experience of how to set it to allow variety in moves/ holds etc. Obviously it does leave holes in the wood but I have not had any issues from that and always assumed that compared to the level of resetting at commercial walls (eg the fixing screws they use in addition to main T-nut) that my changes would be fairly minor. Might also depend on which ply you have.
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I didn't reset mine in the ~10 months it was up as I never felt the need. Might want to if you find yourself in a bit of a rut in terms of coming up with problems (or you get a load of new holds as JJP said).
I suspect you can probably get away with a lot of screw holes in your ply before it becomes an issue. The works certainly looks pretty swiss cheese in places and doesn't seem like it's about to fall over.
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Have a look at some commercial walls? (when they open again) Parts of our local one are about 12 plus years old, and have probably been reset at very least 6 times a year. I know it's T nutted, but still a lot of setting screws and screw ons used too. You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.
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People with screw on holds; do you reset / move things often, or at all? And if you do, do the extra holes in the ply cause any issues?
Saw on Insta Louis Parkinson seems to reset his non-T-nutted wall about once a month or something and the ply is now riddled with screw holes. Just wondering if there were any issues with doing it on a more limited basis.
I definitely don't have the time to reset the whole thing! Nor would I want to for that matter. But might be nice to tweak things on occasion.
You'd have to make a lot of screw holes on a non-T-nut wall to remove as much material as all the 12-13mm holes in a T-nutted wall on a standard 20cm grid. Obviously the T-nut reinforces the hole, but the T-nut hole is probably 7-15 times bigger than a screw hole.
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You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.
Or when your mate goes running backwards across the mats holding a large jug replete with T-nut and plywood still attached?
Damp conditions, laminated plywood (to achieve a curve) and pinning screws on similar sized holds were likely the cause.
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You only notice the screw holes if you look closely, and it certainly hasn't done the structure any harm.
Or when your mate goes running backwards across the mats holding a large jug replete with T-nut and plywood still attached?
Damp conditions, laminated plywood (to achieve a curve) and pinning screws on similar sized holds were likely the cause.
Don't remember that happening at our local.
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Thanks all, time to move some things around!
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51015082758_0f1a36bf49.jpg)
Taken down my board as needed the room so built this little foot on campus thing in the cellar. Better than nowt
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Likewise interested if you find any. All the resin holds now are in lovely ergonomic shapes and textures, where really I just want some ratty little horrible things.
Shame I'm so far away, I inherited holds from both Dave P, and another friend who took their wall down, some right ratty old school things among them.
Most rat like crimps i have are these https://www.outside.co.uk/bleaustone-training-range-symmetrics-set.html
the smallest of which i can can barely hold on my board - 26 deg, so for a wad should be ideal. The others are more incut
I have some of these on my 45 (not the full set).
The easiest ones are crimpy but very positive, can use them for biggish moves but have to pull hard. The more rounded ones (middle, second from bottom) make nice comfortable crimp/pinches. Some of them are quite positive but only for 2/3 fingers so have to hit them accurately or I'm off. The squarish ones (top left or middle right?) are properly ratty.
I'm not a fan of the 2 sided ones in the bottom right: they are awkward to use as handholds and too good for footholds. But the rest are good.
I also have these red crimps which are very ratty and basic.
I inherited them so don't know who made them but they could be just what you're after Bradders if anyone can identify them.
https://imgur.com/a/LmB8kjT (https://imgur.com/a/LmB8kjT)
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Discussion on holds for boards moved here (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31171.0.html).
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I have a question about garage roofs. Exciting stuff!
We are looking at moving house and clearly the (OK, my) main priority is space for a bigger and better board. Found a few places with double garages that have a pitched roof. Most however seem to have horizontal joists that makes the space in the roof unusable in terms of building in a board. I presume these are preventing the roof trusses spreading and pushing the walls apart. My question is, does anyone know how big of a job it is to remove them so that the whole of the roof space is usable?
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I have a question about garage roofs. Exciting stuff!
We are looking at moving house and clearly the (OK, my) main priority is space for a bigger and better board. Found a few places with double garages that have a pitched roof. Most however seem to have horizontal joists that makes the space in the roof unusable in terms of building in a board. I presume these are preventing the roof trusses spreading and pushing the walls apart. My question is, does anyone know how big of a job it is to remove them so that the whole of the roof space is usable?
With the caveat that I've got no idea if it's sensible, we had a board in a double garage with a pitched roof that initially had steel roof trusses. We chopped out the horizontals on half of them, bolted 2x6s to the pitched sections and added some much smaller wooden horizontal braces close to the apex of the roof. That was 5 or so years ago and the garage hasn't fallen down yet. We only attached the board to the supporting wall so the load on (what remained of) the trusses probably wasn't too high.
My mate did most of it, think it took him a day or two? Didnt seem too much hassle, though he did hit himself in the face with the angle grinder and cut a good gash in his cheek so want to avoid doing that.
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Ideally Rob it sounds like you want a ridge beam installing. This isn't that expensive (in the scheme of house mods).
That was 5 or so years ago and the garage hasn't fallen down yet. We only attached the board to the supporting wall so the load on (what remained of) the trusses probably wasn't too high.
I see this mentality a lot at work. Perhaps your structure has acres of fat in it, but bear in mind the design of structures for things like wind loading look at return periods >>>5 years.
People like to bang on about over-design but they'd soon change their tune if everything suddenly went leaner than an 80s sport climber on diuretics.
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Thanks Paul, had a quick Google and something like that looks just the ticket.
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Paul, if you do something like remus will it need to be undone prior to home survey if you ever intend to sell?
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Hi Rob, I've just built a true ridge beam roof on a double garage. You'd be amazed how much(size) timber you need up compared to a standard trussed roof. As Paul says to convert an existing wouldn't be a huge expense, the roof would need ripping out and starting again, your probably looking at 3k materials plus labour. To try and mod an existing is asking for trouble. It only needs to smallest amount of movement onto the supporting walls to compromise them. Steel ridge is the way to go. I couldn't get one at the time, and big expense for the size and access so went for timber. Even after calcing and recalcing, and getting a second opinion, I decided to truss across the middle.for peace of mind.
Its made a cracking space in the loft for boards. Well worth the hassel.
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Thanks Probes, great info. Sounds like that could be the way to go. Just need to find a house to go with the garage now!
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Paul, if you do something like remus will it need to be undone prior to home survey if you ever intend to sell?
It's not really my area of expertise. Common sense would say yes, absolutely.
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Having had a good read through the various threads on here in the weeks before doing my home build, I thought I'd post a picture of the result :great: It's freestanding with a 45 degree overhang on the left and 30 degree on the right. The 45 is 3.2m*3m and the 30 is 2.6m*3.3m, not including kickboards.
All in all the build took around 7 days and cost just over €1k (not including holds). Managed to score the mats for free from a gym that was replacing them. Getting the 5m lengths of lumbar onto the third floor was possibly the most ridiculous part - we set up a haul rig and pulled them straight from the street through the second floor window and up through the attic entry :weakbench:
Built it with a mate who had some carpentry experience on a smaller scale, whilst I had next to nothing. We did a fair bit of planning on paper and in CAD which helped immensely when finding a suitable concept - although it all changed a bit in the construction process!
Hope this provides suitable inspiration to anyone about to embark on the journey ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eeXInBua3g7BX7nFq2IXgAF4bcYw8oledxsIKZEU-sE6FJCMFpaLGEyi3HGAVD7j6TmyaH5clal6QPzGFD0k=w1920-h937-rw)
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I don't think your photo works (both in terms of in your post, or just trying to access using the address):
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eeXInBua3g7BX7nFq2IXgAF4bcYw8oledxsIKZEU-sE6FJCMFpaLGEyi3HGAVD7j6TmyaH5clal6QPzGFD0k=w1920-h937-rw (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eeXInBua3g7BX7nFq2IXgAF4bcYw8oledxsIKZEU-sE6FJCMFpaLGEyi3HGAVD7j6TmyaH5clal6QPzGFD0k=w1920-h937-rw)
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Ah, I think I hosted it on the work cloud so possibly not available publically. This should work:
(https://i.ibb.co/JnPmRQx/Home-Wall.jpg)
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Nice board mischa - and love the grain/pattern in the ply. Please don’t paint it!
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Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?
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Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?
Possibly a worse infringement than using heels... 😂
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Ace looking board. Work on falling off accurately..
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Nice board mischa - and love the grain/pattern in the ply. Please don’t paint it!
Definitely not gonna be painting it! I love the grain.
Are you going to put spotlights in the ceiling?
Nah, I want the ceiling for holds (and hopefully cracks if it works out as planned) so doing two lights either side of the frame and then potentially running LED strips along the outside edges.
Ace looking board. Work on falling off accurately..
Yep! Slightly annoying to have to push the pads into position but free is free and it makes it easy to make space for core training/stretching etc.
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Good plan, looks great!
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Looks great - I move a mat around a bit as well and it is no hassle once you get used it. Along with brushing holds etc it often helps force a bit of a rest between goes. Looks a quality mat for free!
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Looks great - I move a mat around a bit as well and it is no hassle once you get used it. Along with brushing holds etc it often helps force a bit of a rest between goes. Looks a quality mat for free!
I was really lucky! My mate is a gym owner and got hold of it from another gym for me. Couldn't believe it when I saw it ;D
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Anything is better than nothing. I've got old sofa cushions
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Good potential for board to board jumps!
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Good potential for board to board jumps!
Absolutely and also transitions from either side at a steep body angle.
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For all of you lot that like chopping holes in your roof joists etc.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-dorset-57253965
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Imagine being so tuned out of your surroundings that you just carry on walking idly by... staggering
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For all of you lot that like chopping holes in your roof joists etc.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-dorset-57253965
:o
Keatonesque
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FN2SKWSOdGM
(Andy Popp appears to have been building a board in his attic)
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Hello.
Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around €600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around €380.
Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.
Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:
Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html
Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html
Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!
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Hello.
Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around €600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around €380.
Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.
Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:
Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html
Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html
Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!
My board is built from the exact softwood ply you're looking at, also bought from Hornbach. It's excellent and no flex with the 18mm. Passt scho' :2thumbsup:
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Hello.
Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around €600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around €380.
Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.
Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:
Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html
Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html
Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!
I used pine structural ply - had not much choice in lockdown. It's a bit shit for screwons. Needs painted, but flex is fine.
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Hello.
Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around €600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around €380.
Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.
Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:
Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html
Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html
Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!
My board is built from the exact softwood ply you're looking at, also bought from Hornbach. It's excellent and no flex with the 18mm. Passt scho' :2thumbsup:
Thanks for the replies. Have you had any problems with screw ons Mischa?
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When I say " a bit shit" I've had a few screws rips threads, but most have been fine especially with longer screws.
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I've had the same thing happen in 15mm hardwood ply. I'm attributing it to the screws being too short in length and too small in diameter. Go with 5mm diameter screws (or at least 4.5) and you'll be fine. I had to order 5mm full thread spax, because the hardware store only had partial thread ones in the lengths above 4cm.
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The biggest thing that's going to influence 'flex' (deflection) in this instance is going to be the C/C of the supporting members. The difference in stiffness between 18mm thk. ply X or Y will be fairly minimal.
For screws I use Screwfix's Turbo gold without issue (posi). I don't see the need for ktx or torx for the home user (plus stabbing yourself with a ktx bit seems to do some serious damage in my experience).
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The biggest thing that's going to influence 'flex' (deflection) in this instance is going to be the C/C of the supporting members. The difference in stiffness between 18mm thk. ply X or Y will be fairly minimal.
For screws I use Screwfix's Turbo gold without issue (posi). I don't see the need for ktx or torx for the home user (plus stabbing yourself with a ktx bit seems to do some serious damage in my experience).
Due to a fuck up, our first set on the wall, got fixed with Pozi’s instead of the (much more expensive) Torx I had neatly lined up, ready to go.
We never switched back and have never had an issue.
Used the Torx for wall expansion later. Using Torx for structural work and Pozi for setting, helps (helps, there are some idiots out there) to ensure structural screws don’t get taken out during setting.
Can confirm, using an impact driver, it’s entirely possible to set a 5 or even 6 mm screw spinning in hardwood ply; always assuming the head doesn’t come off first.
On that point: Reisser Cutters from Toolstation, are my choice. Shankless, or you’ll have trouble getting them out again.
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I also have those as my pinning screws of choice although the lift off lid has left this idiot looking a bit foolish once or twice before!
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I also have those as my pinning screws of choice although the lift off lid has left this idiot looking a bit foolish once or twice before!
Ah, yeah.
Try picking 500 up from the carpet on the mats.
Tool belt for me, these days.
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Thanks for all the replies. Very useful.
One more thing. Anything I should consider regarding painting the boards? I read somewhere that you should paint both sides to prevent warping, but dont think I have ever seen this on any other painted walls. Advice on best type of paint also welcome!
Thanks
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Do you want to paint or think you need to paint? Might not have to which will save you some faff!
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Thanks for all the replies. Very useful.
One more thing. Anything I should consider regarding painting the boards? I read somewhere that you should paint both sides to prevent warping, but dont think I have ever seen this on any other painted walls. Advice on best type of paint also welcome!
Thanks
Unless it's for weather proofing or something like that there's no point imo. I've never known a problem with warping on unpainted boards, I assume if you have a sensible number of supporting members that'll be more than enough.
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My garage board is pretty dry but I'm still getting the odd mold spore developing on the surface of the plywood (and some of the wooden holds). I used Ronseal Exterior Crystal Clear (matte?) varnish but probably should've done several coats.
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Hello.
Does anyone have any advice on hardwood Vs softwood ply for a home wall. Ideally I would use 18mm birch ply, but this costs around €600 for the amount I need I my area. Alternatively I could use softwood ply which would cost around €380.
Any advice on longevity, sturdiness, voids, flex much appreciated.
Here are the exact boards I am considering. Sorry it is in German:
Birch: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Multiplexplatte-Birke-18x1250x2500-mm/5084835/artikel.html
Maritime Pine: https://www.hornbach.at/shop/Sperrholz-Seekiefer-II-III-2500x1250x18-mm-Zuschnitt-online-reservierbar/5194467/artikel.html
Advice on other options also appreciated. Thanks!
My board is built from the exact softwood ply you're looking at, also bought from Hornbach. It's excellent and no flex with the 18mm. Passt scho' :2thumbsup:
Thanks for the replies. Have you had any problems with screw ons Mischa?
I only use screw ons (no t-nuts) and it's fine 👍
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For those of you with condensation problems, I was wondering whether I need to try and find a way of heating the space (very high roof double garage) or whether an air mover is a better bet? The roof isn't insulated and two of the walls are actually retaining earth. However, generally it's a very dry space. Prior to building none of the walls or the slab had any signs of ingress or dampness.
I'm finding the top of the board seems very prone to condensation when the humidity is high (like right now) and it's getting a bit annoying to have to treat a board like a conditions dependant crag!
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In my experience heating is MUCH more effective than air movement (presumably you're thinking of a fan here) for condensation.
I totally share your frustration around conditions, although since I started using a little space heater it's been easily managed; just stick it on before a session and half an hour later you're good to go. My next step is going to be getting a proper electric supply out to my shed so I can put in a greenhouse heater, which will hopefully keep it dry all the time.
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Rather than a fan I was thinking of a Vacmaster air mover as I've got other uses for it (sticking it in front of the turbo trainer). It's what they use for drying out flooded houses (we've had cause to use them like this previously).
It's a big space so I wasn't sure if a space heater would actually do much (although we need something just to make it a bit more comfortable when it's totally freezing outside anyway).
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For those of you with condensation problems, I was wondering whether I need to try and find a way of heating the space (very high roof double garage) or whether an air mover is a better bet? The roof isn't insulated and two of the walls are actually retaining earth. However, generally it's a very dry space. Prior to building none of the walls or the slab had any signs of ingress or dampness.
I'm finding the top of the board seems very prone to condensation when the humidity is high (like right now) and it's getting a bit annoying to have to treat a board like a conditions dependant crag!
Have you thought about throwing a few slabs of insulation up? Can often pick up old stuff free/cheap and would make a vast difference. But yes as mentioned previously heat is the solution IMO.
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Well after having my board up for a while now I've done some improvements - mainly moving all the big holds over to the 30 degree side, installing a load of crack volumes I'd knocked together from offcuts and resetting the 45 to be 'symmetrical' (the holds aren't actually all symmetrical but are close enough).
I realised after a couple of months using it that each board was a bit unspecific i.e. the 30 had too many small holds considering it was meant for endurance and the 45 had too many big holds and there were generally a lot of holds at weird angles which made it feel quite tweaky. With this in mind I went ahead and reset it purely for 3-5 move max effort boulders with a lot more thought going into hold angle, placement and distancing. I'm yet to have the first proper session because I'm rehabbing a TFCC injury but it's looking far better and the 30 is now graced with enough jugs to do aerocap without feet on the floor.
Very pleased with how it's turned out so far, will see how it actually climbs but looks are vastly improved!
(https://i.ibb.co/7yvCYXb/IMG-20211223-133339.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zfsxnrN)
(https://i.ibb.co/tHYH3p5/IMG-20211223-140528.jpg) (https://ibb.co/b6N675n)
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Nice looking board!
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Rather than a fan I was thinking of a Vacmaster air mover as I've got other uses for it (sticking it in front of the turbo trainer). It's what they use for drying out flooded houses (we've had cause to use them like this previously).
It's a big space so I wasn't sure if a space heater would actually do much (although we need something just to make it a bit more comfortable when it's totally freezing outside anyway).
Hi Paul, I can't remember how air tight your garage is but if it is/can be made so, a big dehumidifier could be a way to go/try. Especially as the walls are retaining earth! Will always be drawing moisture through obviously. I've one of these
https://www.meacodehumidifiers.co.uk/products/meaco-20l-low-energy-platinum-dehumidifier-3-year-warranty-meaco20le?variant=14283987451971¤cy=GBP&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google+shopping&gclid=CjwKCAiAiKuOBhBQEiwAId_sKyQbSwhANR25BT08QXSeNiRzuGCupoLNXh0RdOeY2m9K7cnJOl2UWhoCXYQQAvD_BwE
running at 200w, so super cheap, and it really shifts some air on fast setting. For the size of your garage I think it would be man enough to move enough air about. And it will suck 20l in a day if its damp enough. And you get the 'magic' dehumidifying heating benefit.
Edit... its actually one of these I have, not the above
https://www.meacodehumidifiers.co.uk/products/meaco-25l-low-energy-dehumidifier-mea25le
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Mischa I had thought about insulation but I thought in the current climate it building materials being a bit inflated it might end up being relatively expensive. The board is about 16ft x 16ft and takes up about 3/4 of the width.
Probes - when you were last in it there was a substantial draft underneath the wooden barn style doors but I was finding a lot of crap got blown in when the winds are high so I fitted those rubber garage door seals. Condensation seems worse since then I'm sure! The walls are very dry, I've not seen any staining even since painting them.
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Ventilation has helped on mine Paul, not game changing but better. Might be another option to consider. If you get an air mover, but there's nowhere for the air to go, you're just recirculating the same damp air.
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Yeah you're right I'd say, that ud probably be the cause.
IMO one of two approaches for cheap solution, loads of vent or seal up and dehumidify/heat. I think the later is always better, given our climate (and if building is in exposed position). And I've never been in a well ventilated un heated climbing wall and had a much fun ;) :D
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.. if you'd like, you can borrow my dehumidifier for a few weeks and see how it fairs as an experiment? I run it for about a week every month in the house, the rest of the time it not on.
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Having a little bit of a dilemma about the design of a small board. I'm sure someone has asked this question before somewhere in the 57 pages of this thread.
Height is the limiting factor as the garage roof is only 2.2m. I can temporarily lean a full sheet of ply at more than 45° and still get the nose of the car underneath it with the door shut so the space is fine. Sitting on the ground and looking up at the sheet does seem a bit small and limited but is this any different to the traditional Sheffield celler? A friend has suggested that it would be better given the limited height to create a cragx style board with a small roof to keep the knees in but if I can get away with keeping it simple then I would rather keep the surface flat. I'm really not sure so would be very grateful for suggestions from the woodie building experts on here. How steep is too steep as I'm not training for bouldering caves but a variety of angles on Peak Lime routes? By nature I am incredibly lazy and disinterested in training so just having hang boards and campus rungs won't suffice, I need to do moves to stay interested. Thanks.
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What width have you got?
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Last winter I built a woody in a garage with a 240 cm roof, after procrastinating for over a year due to wondering if this gave enough height to be of use.
At 40 degrees overhanging, and with a minimalist 18cm kickboard at the base, this gives 287cm high by 244cm wide of climbing surface.
Despite being able to just touch the top of the board when standing on the floor on tiptoes, it has provided a very worthwhile training option, certainly better than the sit start campus board and fingerboard it replaced.
A few considerations:
When determining if the garage has enough depth for a car with the board in place don't forget to factor in the supporting woodwork you'll need behind the plywood. (Probably obvious but worth mentioning).
Have a good think about whether to include a kickboard or not; if I was to build my board again I would miss of the kickboard and instead start at 40 degrees overhanging, but about 10 cm above floor level. Both for ease of construction and because it's very easy to find yourself climbing most of the height of the board while keeping your feet planted on the starting footholds if you are not mindful to avoid it
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Having a little bit of a dilemma about the design of a small board. I'm sure someone has asked this question before somewhere in the 57 pages of this thread.
Height is the limiting factor as the garage roof is only 2.2m. I can temporarily lean a full sheet of ply at more than 45° and still get the nose of the car underneath it with the door shut so the space is fine. Sitting on the ground and looking up at the sheet does seem a bit small and limited but is this any different to the traditional Sheffield celler? A friend has suggested that it would be better given the limited height to create a cragx style board with a small roof to keep the knees in but if I can get away with keeping it simple then I would rather keep the surface flat. I'm really not sure so would be very grateful for suggestions from the woodie building experts on here. How steep is too steep as I'm not training for bouldering caves but a variety of angles on Peak Lime routes? By nature I am incredibly lazy and disinterested in training so just having hang boards and campus rungs won't suffice, I need to do moves to stay interested. Thanks.
This comment is interesting. I've said similar things for many years. Fiend said something similar earlier this year. Loads of people do.
I suspect the biggest, and easiest (well, least physical effort...) training tool / weakness you could work on is mental approach. Why are fingerboards so uninteresting? Why is structured training such a turn off?
It probably doesn't matter a lot whether your wall is 30° x 4m x 6m wide, or 55° x 2.2m x 2m - it's using it effectively, regularly, week in week out that's going to get you the gains.
This year, for the first time...maybe ....ever? I've written myself a plan, that encompasses what I need but still keeps a level of flexibility to prevent it being too rigid. It's too early to tell if it's going to be a success, but for the first time ever I'm totally motivated to tick off the sessions. I realised all the "structured plans don't work for me" was just another way of saying "I don't have a willpower/desire/mental strength to follow one". It's negative self talk... Work on that, and it probably wouldn't matter if all you had was one 20mm edge...
Spoken like a true recent convert...
*edit to say - I realise you didn't request mental training advice so feel free to ignore...
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KC - I'd think you'd get more out of a 45 type board than a Crag X type board as even though it was some time ago, I don't recall you having weak fingers (!).
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Thanks for the replies.
Ideally I would limit the width to about 5 ft /160cm to access storage either side and for safety.
I would definitely create some clearance at the bottom either with a small kick board or thin air. At least there is a small ledge above the concrete slab to rest the frame against and a drainage trench between slab and ledge to give extra clearance for heel dabs. I think the top of the sheet would finish just over 2m above ground with a 150mm vertical ply fascia screwed directly to the joist for finishing holds hang rails etc. Overall length 2.6m approx.
I did make a bit of a retarded measurement on the potential angle earlier, it would put it at closer to 40° not 50° which is probably better.
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even though it was some time ago, I don't recall you having weak fingers (!).
Like Zippy once told me "I am not the shadow of my former self but the shadow of the shadow of my former self". I'm definitely in the shadow stage but with some determination and a good board perhaps I can come back into the light.
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I’m about to build a similar board (same height but about 7ft wide) in my shed. The materials arrived today and, after being limited to hangboarding for months, I held up one of the 2no. 4 x 8ft ply boards in its approx position and was ecstatic with the amount of training space I’m about to have! Its all a matter of perspective..
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even though it was some time ago, I don't recall you having weak fingers (!).
Like Zippy once told me "I am not the shadow of my former self but the shadow of the shadow of my former self". I'm definitely in the shadow stage but with some determination and a good board perhaps I can come back into the light.
I'll take that with a large pinch of salt from the both of you!
If you can find some photos of Ned's original board, or Mason's current board I'm sure you'd get plenty of benefit from something similar if you choose to use it. I've got an amazing board these days and the limiting factor is my motivation (and currently I'm at war with serious condensation).
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That will be the board that Mina uses in this article I assume?
https://www.trainingbeta.com/mina-leslie-wujastyk-cellar-training-culture-in-the-uk/
That does look very similar in size to what I propose.
Thanks
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Indeed!
.. if you'd like, you can borrow my dehumidifier for a few weeks and see how it fairs as an experiment? I run it for about a week every month in the house, the rest of the time it not on.
Cheers Probes, my folks have one I can borrow as they bought a new build that was plastered around about this time last year (remember when it snowed?). I note one in the photos of the article KC linked above although I will admit I've just bought a space heater with a bunch of other stuff required for a DIY job between now and starting my new job.
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2.2m will be fine. Mine is 2.4m from floor (sans pads) to top and that gives loads of scope for problems.
I'd echo the other's thoughts about doing away with a kicker. Mine has neither a kicker nor a finishing vert section; you're on the steep the whole way. I think the only argument in favour of a kicker is to make it steeper, which you may well want to if you're currently only at 40' overhanging; going to 50' would give you a fair bit of extra climbing!
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Our board is 6 feet wide, 7 feet of climbing length in a cellar that's 6.5 feet high. We have a small head and kick board, although kick board mainly just used to create angle and space. It's 50 degrees overhanging.
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Very similar dimensions. Looks like it will be worthwhile build. Thanks all for your input.
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After reading Beastmaking I bought a hygrometer. Testing it last night, the humidity was 95% when Nat went out to the garage to climb and popped on the space heater (£39.99 Erbauer / Screwfix special). When I ventured out 30 mins later this had dropped to 70% (one garage door open and a small fan also on, although the meter and the heater are relatively close).
Interestingly 10mins on the turbo trainer quickly increased the humidity to 75%. Anyhow, it certainly made the first part of both our sessions considerably less grim.
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(https://i.imgur.com/p53oVEo.jpg)
Here we go, small shed woodie completed this weekend. 12 x 8 ft shed with c. 7ft height at eaves and 8ft height at apex. Board measures about 6.5 ft high (to bottom of vert section) and 6.5 ft wide, 47 degrees overhanging. Gap down the side for access and storage.
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That's a cracking use of the space! Slightly raised board and no kicker? Nice. And a tall shed :o What have you got there in terms of board length... 11 foot?
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Tidy looking space, that. Nice job.
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Cheers Probes, loving your holds by the way, those fluid crimps are lovely.
Not quite 11ft! I sacrificed some length for ease of construction and to raise the base slightly for heel room, ended up with 8ft of overhang and 1ft of vert. Plus the vert gives space for fingerboards and campus rungs etc.
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Ah cheers, yeah I'm pretty pleased with those fluids so far. Your board is pretty much same angle as mine (+1 degree :lol:) the small crimps I find quite 'stern' on my board, and you got to be quite precise catching them I find, which is no bad thing.
I thought 11 was a bit out, it looked like 3 boards on the pic for a moment, 8's good enough for sure especially on a high 40s board.
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Not totally on topic so apologies; I've got a few old expansion bolt hangars from rebolting which I'd like to screw next to my fingerboard and hang a pulley off. They obviously have a standard 10mm hole in them which is too large for standard screws. I was thinking I could just pin them in place using a few normal screws, much like people screw T-nutted holds onto their boards using multiple screws. Anyone done similar/is there any downside or is there a magic fixing out there which I need? I'd be screwing into ply.
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10mm is quite a big hole to fill with just screws. You might as well get a 10mm bolt and a nut. I could give you one tomorrow if you're on the grit in Yorkshire.
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There's a fitting I see used at the wall to allow screws to fit the bolt hole in a bolt on hold, no idea what it's called and can't work out what to search for though...
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https://www.climbingwallservices.com/collections/climbing-wall-equipment/products/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5
There's this, but its sold out. Might be available elsewhere.
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Cheers all. Think the obvious solution is to put a suitable washer on top of the hanger and then screw through that into the ply unless I'm missing something?
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https://www.climbingwallservices.com/collections/climbing-wall-equipment/products/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5
There's this, but its sold out. Might be available elsewhere.
This is what I was thinking of
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Cheers all. Think the obvious solution is to put a suitable washer on top of the hanger and then screw through that into the ply unless I'm missing something?
Depends if you’re set on using the bolt hanger - I just drilled a hole in the ply and tied a loop of 5mm cord through it and hang the pulley off that.
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I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley? I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.
https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750
Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.
Or...just put it on a t-nut....
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I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v
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I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley? I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.
https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750
Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.
Or...just put it on a t-nut....
I only use the pulley for one arm hangs on the bottom middle edge, so theres normally about 5kg hanging off it. Never more than 10kg. Depends what you consider a decent weight i guess? I'm no engineer but I'd have thought a decent length screw is more than capable of taking that weight? I will put a block behind it anyway, to bring the fixing out so the weight doesn't swing and clip the wall.
I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v
Cheers; these look like a good option as well.
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Due having no where to screw my finger board in my garage. I glued a piece of plywood into the recess in the metal lintel and screwed my finger board to this.
I think got up to my not too light body weight plus 30 lbs at one time. There was one time when there was a large cracking sound when I was hanging off it. But squeezing more glue behind it appears to resolve the issue.
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I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley?
I just have a single 6mm screw for my pulley assisted hangs atm, no problems. Does feel a bit ghetto though.
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Yeah, you can definitely just raz a couple of screws through the bolt hole. I've done this a couple of times and tested it with a straight out pull up to 60kg or so. Obviously depends on the quality of your ply and using some chunky screws so don't expect 4x40mm screws in to mdd to work.
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I'd be a bit concerned about a single screw and it's ability to hold a decent weight in a pulley? I've got something similar in my door frame (not a climbing bolt, but similar hole size - it was one of the tie-down anchor points from out van before we converted it.). I've got that screwed in with an M8 Coach Screw. I've given it a decent bounce test with my 75kg and it seemed well sturdy.
https://www.toolstation.com/coach-screw/p63750
Can you pin them on somewhere where the ply sits over joists? Or fix a block behind? I'd want more than 18mm thread engagement, but one of the building engineers around here might be less conservative.
Or...just put it on a t-nut....
I only use the pulley for one arm hangs on the bottom middle edge, so theres normally about 5kg hanging off it. Never more than 10kg. Depends what you consider a decent weight i guess? I'm no engineer but I'd have thought a decent length screw is more than capable of taking that weight? I will put a block behind it anyway, to bring the fixing out so the weight doesn't swing and clip the wall.
I got a couple of these staple/eye plates from screwfix for this purpose
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-staple-on-plate-50-x-50mm/4317v
Cheers; these look like a good option as well.
For <20kg one 4.5mm or 5mm screw would be fine. Most of my jugs are on with 2 x 4.5mm screws and I've done 2 handed pullups on that no worries.
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Due having no where to screw my finger board in my garage. I glued a piece of plywood into the recess in the metal lintel and screwed my finger board to this.
I think got up to my not too light body weight plus 30 lbs at one time. There was one time when there was a large cracking sound when I was hanging off it. But squeezing more glue behind it appears to resolve the issue.
Forgot to mention I also screwed a eye bolt into my finger board for assisted hangs.
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I'm waiting for bleaustone pockets to arrive in the post and having screwed all my other wood holds I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach them. It looks like the lonestar washers are still out of stock otherwise I would just buy these. Does anyone have any recommendations for an alternative truncated washer?
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I use these, no washers required
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Spax-TX-Washer-Head-Wirox-Screws---6-x-60mm-Pack-of-30/p/140805?gclid=CjwKCAjwu_mSBhAYEiwA5BBmf-5y7-dLPcXzGS0VJGmHkoG-E3NTcXADgQMzExJZ8oli_b6MZqjR2xoCpacQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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https://www.accu.co.uk/solid-countersunk-washers/611609-HKW-M6-A1
Assuming you're using M5 screws. Just go up a size vs whatever you're using.
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Brilliant - thanks for that. Helpful advice as usual!
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Has anyone had experience of building a board where the structure of it is secured to a vertical brick wall only? I've built a freestanding one before but would be keen to avoid having the supports this time around. Just unsure about how safe/secure fixing to a vertical wall only is. My garage roof is probably not the most sturdy, it has a couple of steel joists supporting, but these and the wood (~4x2) only really look like they're there to support the weight of the roof. Probably not the safest to secure a board to.
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Is it possible to double up the existing joists or add a new joist by chopping out bricks and somehow threading it in.
I had to replace all the joists at the back of my garage as it is built into a hillside and the joist ends were not bitumen rapped and had rotten away.
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can you hang off the joists to test for flex / movement? Is the garage freestanding and separate to the house?
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This situation is a bit awkward really. The length of the garage on one side is connected to my house and the other is the neighbour. So could just put two joist hangers up but would need their permission and trying to find a workaround. If the best thing to do is to have some sort of roof fixing I might need to do that
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If you can link to some photos of the space might help with ideas. Tying a steep board directly back to a brick wall doesn't sound like a great plan....potential for sizeable lateral forces and racking effects.
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Agree, best to have loading to both wall and roof truss if possible. If not, some support to the floor as per freestanding is next best bet.
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If you can link to some photos of the space might help with ideas. Tying a steep board directly back to a brick wall doesn't sound like a great plan....potential for sizeable lateral forces and racking effects.
Yea this gives a basic idea. The right handside wall is the neighbour and the left is mine
https://www.flickr.com/photos/196186917@N08/shares/3616C73118
Thanks for the comments. It might be the case that freestanding is best. Which isn't too bad.
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Hard to see exactly what's going on but I'd say you'd be able to get a solid board with what's there without going for freestanding. Does the wall (your side) have a perpendicular internal brick wall (inside your house)at some point along the length of where the board's going to be? If yes then I'd be looking to get fixing spread across those wooden roof trusses (look decent depth) and get the top of the board fixed in a way so force is 'butting up' against your wall. Possibly using those steel supports to do the butting depending on how they interface with the brick.
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I've done a few builds similar to this, if you can get a couple of trusses across that butt tight against the opposite wall, ie the wall behind you are on the board, this will suffice. They dont even need to be big.. 2x4s. It'll take the load off pulling on wall behind the board and push it into the opposite wall. You can with a bit of giggerypockering not really need to fix into the neighbours wall. Think of it as one whole timber structure dropped into the space, tight up against both walls.
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Are you intending to build so that the wall will be along one sidewall or across the space?
A friend built a board in a similar space (although not brickwork, actually formed from concrete avalanche barriers!) and how it was done was the opposite to how most boards are constructed. The main span was wall to wall (rather than floor to ceiling) with the load being transferred to the walls via an inclined joist.
It's always worth remembering masonry is generally pretty shit when in bending.
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I have a board in a brick shed- so like your garage, just less long. One side is a party wall.
The top of the board rests on a length of 2x4 between the walls. The ends of this rest on 2 vertical 2x4 uprights attached to the walls with coach bolts. It’s solid, tho I added a couple of tie-ins to the joists for stability. These run back from the top of the board. There’s a coach bolt on each side of the board edge into each side wall to reduce flex too.
The board measures approx 10’ x 7’.
If your neighbour would accept 2 or 3 bolts in the party wall, you could have a similar set up. Works well for me.
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Are you intending to build so that the wall will be along one sidewall or across the space?
A friend built a board in a similar space (although not brickwork, actually formed from concrete avalanche barriers!) and how it was done was the opposite to how most boards are constructed. The main span was wall to wall (rather than floor to ceiling) with the load being transferred to the walls via an inclined joist.
It's always worth remembering masonry is generally pretty shit when in bending.
Along the side wall I think is the plan currently
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Thanks for the suggestions! It would be ideal if I can get a fixing sorted. I'll keep those ideas in mind Probes and mrjonathanr
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Any opinions on best wood for foot grips? hardwood for durability. I've used some beech in the past but have found it to be noticeably more 'skiddy' in cold temps (more so than other wood types) and tends to fur up with mould readily in damp environs... Oak? Ash?
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I have oak on mine, and some of the low crimps that are ash get used for feet. Both are bomber, the oak may be more susceptible to conditions, but only if its really damp in the air, and quick blast from the heater usually dries everything out for me.
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also add .... sapelle or iroko or similar dark hardwood would also handle well, though these a little more splitty so obvs rounded edges would reduce chance of busting a splinter off.
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I’ve very recently chopped up some small campus rungs, given them a couple of soaks in Ronseal wood hardener and they are working well so far.
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Thanks, I think I already have a bit of ash actually so will give it a try.
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I’ve very recently chopped up some small campus rungs, given them a couple of soaks in Ronseal wood hardener and they are working well so far.
I'll refrain from the obvious joke.
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I’ve very recently chopped up some small campus rungs, given them a couple of soaks in Ronseal wood hardener and they are working well so far.
I'll refrain from the obvious joke.
Also it's fookin useless at the job it's suppose to do, so may as well whap it on something else, you never know, money to be made there :lets_do_it_wild:
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like viagra, originally for blood pressure! :)
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I'm moving into a new house next week and (after various false starts over the past couple of years) am going to order the timber for a board (my third, though the last one was dismantled in the distant past) asap. Prob pretty similar to the one below.
Anyway, I'm trying to vaguely plan it, and I'm quite interested in the idea of something 70% symmetrical, with the remainder set with random stuff. Mainly because the one I've trained on most of the time over the past few years is a complete splatter mix with wooden holds and plastic, and I think it would be good for my alternative to be mostly wooden holds and also that I think it would probably be good to force me to do stuff both sides and generally add a little bit more structure.
But I have a load of old resin holds which I ought to make use of, and I also need to have some stuff for 7-year-old to get up. And I want to be able to do some longer circuits on it as well.
Does anyone have a setup vaguely like this? And if so, does it work well?
(https://coreclimbing.co.uk/_client/assets/block-images/cellar_board_wide_copy1.jpg)
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I'm moving into a new house next week and (after various false starts over the past couple of years) am going to order the timber for a board (my third, though the last one was dismantled in the distant past) asap. Prob pretty similar to the one below.
Anyway, I'm trying to vaguely plan it, and I'm quite interested in the idea of something 70% symmetrical, with the remainder set with random stuff. Mainly because the one I've trained on most of the time over the past few years is a complete splatter mix with wooden holds and plastic, and I think it would be good for my alternative to be mostly wooden holds and also that I think it would probably be good to force me to do stuff both sides and generally add a little bit more structure.
But I have a load of old resin holds which I ought to make use of, and I also need to have some stuff for 7-year-old to get up. And I want to be able to do some longer circuits on it as well.
Does anyone have a setup vaguely like this? And if so, does it work well?
I’ve had mine as a plastic and wood splatter mix since I built it a couple of years ago. Recently I set it up as a fully symmetrical board and I i’m well happy with it, enjoying it way more than the old setup, feel like I can train on it more frequently too as the plastic holds used to trash skin, especially on smaller holds.
I built mine with two side walls (they don't get in the way of the main board) specifically for my kids (Ages 6 and 10) and they love swapping the holds around all the time and making up their own stuff to climb. They also climb the corner using holds between the two angles.
(https://iili.io/ZtLkKJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ZtLkKJ)
(https://iili.io/ZtQRUv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ZtQRUv)
(https://iili.io/ZtQufa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ZtQufa)
(https://iili.io/ZtQA0J.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ZtQA0J)
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That looks brilliant! I’m building a freestanding one and I think I’ve worked out how to do something like that on one side. My son will love the idea of having his own little bit to mess around with. My daughter is (currently at least) better than me and will have no problem on the main bit!
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Your post looks very similar to Cofes that I've seen on Instagram. I had a shallower freestanding board in a terrace that I used for circuits. I can't say it was the best board I've ever used but it did serve a purpose. I'm still really pleased with my home board which twists from 30 to 45 degrees across it. You can use it for almost everything.
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Yeah that’s mine in Yoss’s pic. It’s a mix of symmetrical and random. I quite like it.
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I'll need to rebuild my board in a new space soon and will have a full garage to play with, approximately 6m long, 2.5m wide, 2.5m tall. It's a good space, and I'm trying to maximize what I do with it. So far I have the following design, any suggestions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/127rlub_YIJa9Ps36WfooBK6r25Fv67sy/view?usp=sharing
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Might you get bored of the layout forcing that there's always an awkward move to get your feet around the small roof (and then you probably won't move your feet too much for a while)? Personally I'd be transferring the load from the structure directly into your floor slab where you can too but that's just me.
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Might you get bored of the layout forcing that there's always an awkward move to get your feet around the small roof (and then you probably won't move your feet too much for a while)? Personally I'd be transferring the load from the structure directly into your floor slab where you can too but that's just me.
Getting bored of the start could turn out to be an issue, but I don't know why it would then mean I don't move my feet for a while afterwards? I'd assumed that eliminating a kickboard would force more foot movements.
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You could build a box that slots in, as a 'removable kick board'.
But personally I think I'd just go for a normal flat board at whatever angle, as it will be much easier to build and have the weight going straight down onto the floor , with less fucking around with wall fixings. But I am lazy!
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that's what i did, and though i could add in a kickboard later if needed, but never have, just got a bottom row of alternating average footholds and poor footholds.
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I'm in the same boat as Mark20 (HMS Eeeezy life) and would go with flat board straight down to the deck. In addition to the original chrome domes, my local wall has 'innovated' a specific feet option (on 40mm wooden domes) on its board. This allows setting with feet off to one side which has the effect of requiring more tension and effectively makes the climbing steeper. Granted, for a given steepness, you're forced more side-on than you would be with your undercut start design but maybe that's not a bad thing?
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I'm not 100% on this, but I suspect any foot holds you put on the to the "mini roof" (aka horizontal kickboard) will need to be quite positive to be at all useable, potentially defeating the point in having it?
I'd reckon at 50* it's already steep enough that if you put some bad foot chips on you'll have no issue making the first more very core-intensive.
And, as Paul says - having the board propped properly onto the ground takes a chuck of the vertical load, whereas your design means that all load is cantilevered off the main vertical supporting wall. I'd avoid this purely on structural terms.
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It's not seeming popular so I will probably get rid of that aspect of the design. I do like the roof extension at the top though, I think that could offer some interesting climbing.
My other idea was to build an overhanging prow instead of a flat board, since this is somewhat more like most of the real climbing I will do...
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if you have 6m width what about half with your design and half without? Or is that a faff to build?
Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2" bit - that has a prow section in the old stories and an alternative approach (long triangle volumes on the sides of the board) in the newer stories. Both look like they'd give good opportunities for heels, compression etc. and even knees with some thought. New version (latest stories) looks good to me and probably quite modifyable in the future for if you get bored?
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Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2"
Talk about sandbag board grades ;)
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I'm quite interested in the idea of something 70% symmetrical, with the remainder set with random stuff. Mainly because the one I've trained on most of the time over the past few years is a complete splatter mix with wooden holds and plastic, and I think it would be good for my alternative to be mostly wooden holds and also that I think it would probably be good to force me to do stuff both sides and generally add a little bit more structure.
But I have a load of old resin holds which I ought to make use of, and I also need to have some stuff for 7-year-old to get up. And I want to be able to do some longer circuits on it as well.
I've recently redone my 45 like this because I'd set it symmetrically with only small footholds and whilst I found it useful for developing body tension it really didn't replicate a wider range of movement which reduced fun and transfer to rock. Rather than reset the whole thing I slung a big mix of resin on there as well plus switched primarily to feet-follow-hands and this has really opened it up. I'm now going through the process of doing the same thing to the 30 because it worked so well.
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if you have 6m width what about half with your design and half without? Or is that a faff to build?
Have a look at Dan Turner's insta - the stories under the "Home Board V2" bit - that has a prow section in the old stories and an alternative approach (long triangle volumes on the sides of the board) in the newer stories. Both look like they'd give good opportunities for heels, compression etc. and even knees with some thought. New version (latest stories) looks good to me and probably quite modifyable in the future for if you get bored?
I think he has 2.5m width, 6m length. Obviously you could put it lengthways but then you'd be pretty constrained in terms of angle and height.
Like the others I wouldn't go with the mini roof. How many boulder problems actually start like that anyway?
Dave Buchanan has a sort of similar angle change on his board. Personally not a set up I'd go for either (especially the massive vert top section) but each to their own.
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CmUU72LDLSJ/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
I reckon just standard flat board at 50' is the way to go, and use volumes to create other angles if you need.
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Sounds a good space liam.
Like others not sure I would be keen on that bottom section/ horizontal kickboard and would either have a conventional kickboard or just full thing at 50 degrees.
I have a kick board as I needed to be able to walk behind the wall (access elec meter and fuse box etc).
Whilst I still dont know if would be better without a kickboard one advantage has been when I buy holds that i am not strong enough to use on 45 degrees I can put them lower and use them when feet are on the kickboard!
I have similar space but didnt think of a roof section - built a seperate campus and FB bit to side/ back from wall.
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I'm a firm believer in not having a kickboard. I don't want the starts to be less steep.
But you can have both: keep it at 50° with feet to the bottom but build a separate detachable kickboard. Slide the kickboard out of the way when you want it to be 50° and slide it in to place when you want a kickboard. You can position the kickboard wherever you want in order to reduce the angle for endurance training.
It isn't worth the effort if you are purely going to use the board for limit sessions. But I think it is worth doing if you have the space and want to do endurance sessions.
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My first board was 53 degrees - my second 40. Both train different things.. but I think I get more variety of movement (less brutal) on the 40.
Can’t visualise the space (sorry) but why not a ‘roof’ at the top rather than the bottom?
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Could you build the board on the 6m wall. So you have a 6m wide board. It would be a shame not to use that space if available. Personally I'd go small kicker 250mm or something, so you can get into the bottom of the board without it being so bunched and a 45deg. You'd have about 3.5m length of surface. The top of the board would butt up against the opposite wall, but I've done a few like this and it never causes a problem. That would be quite some board. Plenty of space for say a mirrored section, then splatter with volumes etc.
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Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?
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I'll need to rebuild my board in a new space soon and will have a full garage to play with, approximately 6m long, 2.5m wide, 2.5m tall. It's a good space, and I'm trying to maximize what I do with it. So far I have the following design, any suggestions?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/127rlub_YIJa9Ps36WfooBK6r25Fv67sy/view?usp=sharing
Why not have 2 stacked 4x4 batons coach bolted into the back wall to rest the base of the board onto. Cover with ply, gives about 10” kickboard. Make your board straight out at the same angle. Do another facing it directly but only 2m wide so you can walk past it. Set it up as a crimp y system board at 40’ or similar.
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Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?
You would have thought so hey, but peeps say after a bit of use you get used to it. You're aware of the potential so naturally don't do anything to risk pinging into it. This is from pretty legit time served board climbers. Specifically an Otley based one, I was pretty concerned it would be an issue for them, and it hasn't.
Not sure I'd be too into it if I had a better option.
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I put a spare pad against the wall. Not wrecked myself yet but I might be avoiding massive dynos.
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Wouldn't you risk pancaking into the back wall quite frequently if the board extended all the way to the far wall?
You would have thought so hey, but peeps say after a bit of use you get used to it. You're aware of the potential so naturally don't do anything to risk pinging into it. This is from pretty legit time served board climbers. Specifically an Otley based one, I was pretty concerned it would be an issue for them, and it hasn't.
Not sure I'd be too into it if I had a better option.
I have about 40cm between the top of my board and a row of fingerboards behind it, which then has a 20' board underneath. This gives a little more room than just a flat wall and means I can do big moves cutting loose etc. to the top. Imagine you couldn't quite do that if it were a flat wall behind, but would still work.
If the Otley board is the one I'm thinking of then I've climbed on it and it was definitely a little neckier than mine but I can imagine getting used to it. And as you say, putting it lengthways gives a pretty massive space! The only difference there is I think that one is also pretty tall? Whereas with only 2.5m height I'm not sure it'd be quite the same.
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If the Otley board is the one I'm thinking of then I've climbed on it and it was definitely a little neckier than mine but I can imagine getting used to it. And as you say, putting it lengthways gives a pretty massive space! The only difference there is I think that one is also pretty tall? Whereas with only 2.5m height I'm not sure it'd be quite the same.
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If my memory serves me, it was exactly 3 panels (I remember bonus moment not having to cut the last panels :D).. so 3.2m with maybe a 250mm kicker. So if my math is correct that would make that also a 2.5m high ceiling?
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Ah fair enough, for some reason my memory is of it being taller :-\
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Can’t visualise the space (sorry) but why not a ‘roof’ at the top rather than the bottom?
My board had a flat roof at the top with the finishing equivalent of kick board round the lip (which leant slightly and was lined with simple wooden holds and a continuous rail for finishing matched on). Personally, I thought it significantly enhanced the scope of the board.
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Looking for collective wisdom on size of kicker / headwall. Putting in a 45 which will be c. 3m wide and 3.3m length (hypotenuse). Was thinking yes for kicker and headwall. To maximise climbing space, was thinking only a 15cm kicker and 15cm headwall. Thoughts on whether this would work or too small a kicker / headwall?
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I’ve got both, at 20cm. 15 sounds viable but tight. You need some room for heels off the bottom of the kickboard.
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If you've got enough ceiling length you could go for a headwall on a bit of an angle (20-30 degrees). It'd give you a bit more space on there and avoid the "every finishing hold is a jug" issue.
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Don't bother with either! Got rid of my headwall after a few months, last moves were always easy. Never had a kickboard, makes the pull-ons nice and hard.
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Don't bother with either! Got rid of my headwall after a few months, last moves were always easy. Never had a kickboard, makes the pull-ons nice and hard.
100% this. I do have a small finishing rail, but it's at about 40' (board is 45') and is only about 7cm with the roof of my shed above it, so finishing moves are to slot type edges so you have to be accurate. Absolutely none of the lobs to finishing jugs you get on so many boards.
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Looking for collective wisdom on size of kicker / headwall. Putting in a 45 which will be c. 3m wide and 3.3m length (hypotenuse). Was thinking yes for kicker and headwall. To maximise climbing space, was thinking only a 15cm kicker and 15cm headwall. Thoughts on whether this would work or too small a kicker / headwall?
I'm in the neither camp unless space constraints force you to include them. Kickers and headwalls add to build complexity and reduce the effective angle of your board. Rather than a headwall with nails holds on it, you can achieve the same difficulty without a headwall and slightly easier finishing holds.
If height is the limiting factor for your 3.3m climbing length, I definitely wouldn't bother with either.
If the length of floor space is the limiting factor, I could maybe make a case for including them, but I'm still not clear on what the advantage of a 45 with kicker & headwall is over a 40 with neither.
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I think one of the reasons a kicker is often included is due to the sharp angle made by the board and the ground making the bottom 25cm of the board unusable anyway? (i.e. your foot doesn't fit in the gap, unless you inside/outside edge or really point your toes.)
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My bottom footholds on my 40 degree no kicker board are 25 cm up the board or 20 off the floor.
I reckon they could go lower. However when I have had boards with 10/15 cm kicker and done problem starting with my feet above the kicker it always seemed harder to pull on than with low feet.
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I think one of the reasons a kicker is often included is due to the sharp angle made by the board and the ground making the bottom 25cm of the board unusable anyway? (i.e. your foot doesn't fit in the gap, unless you inside/outside edge or really point your toes.)
Definitely. On my 50° board in my last house I had this issue. Just a waste of space. Less of on issue the less steep the board. My current 40° has a kicker and 20° doesn't.
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Don't bother with either! Got rid of my headwall after a few months, last moves were always easy. Never had a kickboard, makes the pull-ons nice and hard.
100% this. I do have a small finishing rail, but it's at about 40' (board is 45') and is only about 7cm with the roof of my shed above it, so finishing moves are to slot type edges so you have to be accurate. Absolutely none of the lobs to finishing jugs you get on so many boards.
I've got a beam along to the top of my board with a beastmaker 2K in the centre (and various slopey holds on either side). The beastmaker is easily the best part of the board, it introduces a seemingly endless supply of novel finishes. My current favourite is doing a rose move across the sloper 30s, which is desperate. For bigger moves you usually can't see any of the slot holds, so it's loads of fun trying to stick them. And who doesn't want to do a climb which finishes on two monos?
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The top surface of the lowest row of feet on my 45 with no kicker is 9cm above the floor.
It doesn't feel dabby when I use them front on. I suppose it might for someone with very large feet.
This is with a sitstart pad below the feet. Not that I need the padding for protection; I've got a terraced house so I use the padding to stop the neighbours having to hear my heel thudding into the wooden floor every time my foot pops.
I've got a beam along to the top of my board with a beastmaker 2K in the centre (and various slopey holds on either side). The beastmaker is easily the best part of the board, it introduces a seemingly endless supply of novel finishes. My current favourite is doing a rose move across the sloper 30s, which is desperate. For bigger moves you usually can't see any of the slot holds, so it's loads of fun trying to stick them. And who doesn't want to do a climb which finishes on two monos?
That is a good reason to add a headwall if it is the best place you have to mount a fingerboard.
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All good thoughts thanks all :) Feeling like I'm trending towards 20cm kicker and no headwall. Planning to mount fingerboard separately anyway so all good there.
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The top surface of the lowest row of feet on my 45 with no kicker is 9cm above the floor.
It doesn't feel dabby when I use them front on. I suppose it might for someone with very large feet.
This is with a sitstart pad below the feet. Not that I need the padding for protection; I've got a terraced house so I use the padding to stop the neighbours having to hear my heel thudding into the wooden floor every time my foot pops.
I've got a beam along to the top of my board with a beastmaker 2K in the centre (and various slopey holds on either side). The beastmaker is easily the best part of the board, it introduces a seemingly endless supply of novel finishes. My current favourite is doing a rose move across the sloper 30s, which is desperate. For bigger moves you usually can't see any of the slot holds, so it's loads of fun trying to stick them. And who doesn't want to do a climb which finishes on two monos?
That is a good reason to add a headwall if it is the best place you have to mount a fingerboard.
Yeah likewise. I think the idea that you lose part of the climbing surface without a kicker only really holds true on very steep boards. On a 45 it's fine. Best of both worlds make a removable kicker!
Fingerboard at the top is cool too. Whatever helps avoid easy last moves basically.
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I've been going back and forwards on whether to have a kicker for my next board, which will probably be at 50 degrees. In theory, I don't want easy moves to start each problem, but this can be negated by pulling on with smaller holds than I'd otherwise be able to use. This also adds a bit of variety: smaller holds and easier feet for move 1 followed by relatively easier hands and worse feet for subsequent moves. Of course not every problem has to use the kicker, or you can have rules like feet off the kicker after move 1, feet follow, etc. Then again, the same could be achieved by just having some larger footholds towards the bottom of a wall with no kicker... It probably doesn't matter unless there are some space considerations.
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The problem I find with setting arbitrary rules (e.g. no kicker) is that it doesn’t tend to be the norm and it’s often the path of least resistance that’s used (e.g. using the kicker). On my previous board I had a range of feet on the kicker and almost only used three of them. laziness often set in when creating. Also depends what you use to record problems, if there isn’t a way to make a note specifying rules, it gets lost semi-quickly.
Though I got good mileage out of having three finishing holds though. Two jugs either side for warm ups and then a campus rung that everything finished on.
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I have a couple of sets of feet. One has footholds on the kicker, other doesn't. Point about being able to use more minging handholds is a good one.
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I have a 50 with a 400ish kicker, with no holds on it. I can recommend it if the space suits! Footholds are right at the bottom of the 50 and there's a lot of space to get into the bottom of the board and start from low holds, so you get and extra move or two. I only use the kicker to push off or flag on, but generally it doesnt get used. I hadn't really planned for this, when building the actual building I'd planned for a 200 space for a kicker, then realised as I was putting the floor in I could drop it an extra 200mm, giving a much better attic space.
Old vid here of me flailing about on the board. Most problems start as in the second clip, right in the bottom of board with feet high and to side.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CdoxTbOv5bP/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/CdoxTbOv5bP/)
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Ye Liam can be really difficult to make these decisions.
I do have holds lower on my board that I could not use without the kickboard (mono`s, poor sloper, really poor pinches and crimps etc) but have to admit it is always tempting to leave your foot on the kickboard for as many moves as possible which is a disadvantage when the board is not all that high. My kickboard is also quite big (~40cm) and ideally would prefere it smaller.
I agree with others that I doubt arbitrary rules like kicker for first move only would work well longterm.
If your kicker was small you could have problems that start with feet on the main board - you would probably have to have room to flag the other foot or it would probably end up pushing off the kicker?
Do you know anyone with a board without a kicker you could go and try? This might be best way to decide what would work best for you.
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The problem I find with setting arbitrary rules (e.g. no kicker) is that it doesn’t tend to be the norm and it’s often the path of least resistance that’s used (e.g. using the kicker). On my previous board I had a range of feet on the kicker and almost only used three of them. laziness often set in when creating. Also depends what you use to record problems, if there isn’t a way to make a note specifying rules, it gets lost semi-quickly.
Some of the board apps have a heatmap function which highlights the frequency with which each hold gets used.
I check this every couple of months, and then try to set some problems using some of the neglected hand/foot holds.
I try to use a mixture of free feet, feet follow hands, and designated feet to get more variety but it is easy to get stuck in patterns. Always a good reason to have someone round for a session and to set a few problems of their own. Boulderbot is also useful.
Though I got good mileage out of having three finishing holds though. Two jugs either side for warm ups and then a campus rung that everything finished on.
I've got a decent selection of finishing holds now for variety:
1x bucket and 1x 3 finger jug for warmups / massive moves / circuits
2x finger jugs for bigger moves / easier finishes but you need to be accurate
1x slopey pinch and 1x campus rail easy to hit, hard to match
1x good crimp
3x bad crimps
1x bad sloper
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The kicker on my 45 is 14cm, no issue with clearance, I find it lends itself to being able to use worse hand holds at the start. I have small smear side core screw on footholds on it, works great.
I’ve never climbed on a board without a kicker so cant really comment on that.
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I have a 50 with a 400ish kicker, with no holds on it. I can recommend it if the space suits!
Again, I don't really have a kicker and my board twists from 30 to 45 degrees across its width. I splashed on some decent mats for it (£££) and I've just set the footholds at a height as you'd expect at a local wall but I've got the height to do this.
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I have a 50 with a 400ish kicker, with no holds on it. I can recommend it if the space suits!
Again, I don't really have a kicker and my board twists from 30 to 45 degrees across its width. I splashed on some decent mats for it (£££) and I've just set the footholds at a height as you'd expect at a local wall but I've got the height to do this.
If you'd had a kicker on yours, it would be justifiable to have lower offs too. ;D
I suppose the point I'm making, is with limited head space (as in my case re building height regs) then going without a kicker doesn't necessarily make a board climb bigger... in the case of a 45-50. Pete's 50 with 150 kicker always was a squash to me at the bottom, and most of the time the first move/s were just a case of keeping your arse off the mats, and making a big move to clear up space to get feet up. That said, his is massive (high) so after this there's plenty board still to go at.
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I have a 50 with a 400ish kicker, with no holds on it. I can recommend it if the space suits!
Again, I don't really have a kicker and my board twists from 30 to 45 degrees across its width. I splashed on some decent mats for it (£££) and I've just set the footholds at a height as you'd expect at a local wall but I've got the height to do this.
If you'd had a kicker on yours, it would be justifiable to have lower offs too. ;D
I suppose the point I'm making, is with limited head space (as in my case re building height regs) then going without a kicker doesn't necessarily make a board climb bigger... in the case of a 45-50. Pete's 50 with 150 kicker always was a squash to me at the bottom, and most of the time the first move/s were just a case of keeping your arse off the mats, and making a big move to clear up space to get feet up. That said, his is massive (high) so after this there's plenty board still to go at.
Think thats mainly down to my mat setup, if they were level with the bottom of the kicker it would be very different, in some ways its good training for cramped starts outside!
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I've really enjoyed having a 20cm kicker on my 45 even though it's only just over 3m long. It gives the option to use much smaller and more awkward holds lower down and is great for working body tension on small feet (mine are the little wood domes from hardwood holds). It's also good for getting stretched out on bad feet. I'm a fan.
Recently did a reset on my board and filled it out with a bunch of more positive old resin holds plus changed to feet-follow. It's amazing how this has changed the style. It now climbs much more powerfully and feels much more similar to rock which in turn is way more fun.
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Hey all, im about to build a board in my garage this coming week. I plan to have a kicker and top, looking at 40-50 degree. The only thing is my floor is quite sloped. Im talking like 15-20degree sloped upwards towards the door to the kitchen. Will this effect it much? I imagine it’ll be like one of those big walls like they have at depot Manchester where the floor slopes up as you climb up the wall.
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Hey all, im about to build a board in my garage this coming week. I plan to have a kicker and top, looking at 40-50 degree. The only thing is my floor is quite sloped. Im talking like 15-20degree sloped upwards towards the door to the kitchen. Will this effect it much? I imagine it’ll be like one of those big walls like they have at depot Manchester where the floor slopes up as you climb up the wall.
Good training for keeping your core tight to avoid dabbing ;D
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Hey all
Is there a particular trick to fixing footholds so they don`t budge/ move slightly with use?
Is it just a case of fairly large diameter screws and regularly re-tighten?
Guess its not a big deal just a bit annoying.
Cheers
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In what wood? If they are shifting they are probably too big ;)
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:lol: possibly!
Ye the board is 18 mm marine plywood and footholds are a mix of the core screw on footholds (the small ones on kicker and 10 mm plus 20 mm ones on the 45).
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interesting, I have never had an issue, but i bedded mine in hard with a power screwdriver, and have never moved them. I doubt they would budge without a lump hammer smashing them to bits.
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Cheers Chris, that is def different to mine then!
I have replaced any thin screws with larger diameter ones and hand tightened, will see if fair better :2thumbsup:
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I've had this problem on my board with everything from the screw in t-nuts, pinning screws and screw-ons (which use Core's recommended size; M5 50mm from memory?). I put it down to the plywood compressing and the changing conditions (moisture?) from Summer to Winter affecting the wood. These were all smashed in without adequate care using an 18v impact driver.
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If you really don't want them to move then get some gorilla glue on them. You won't get them back of again though in one piece though I don't think.
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Vaguely related to thread.
I am planning to build a board in a room in our apartment and would like to make a custom pad so that the room look a little nicer than if having an assortment of random pads. I'm planning to get some form of filling, preferably made to measure in a single piece, and clad this in some form of nice looking, easy to clean felt. What kind of hardness should I look at? If I made the stuffing from polyurethane for instance, what kind of density should I look at? Is 40kg/m2 enough or way too little?
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Hmm i see that the guys who did the matting in my gym used the following products: MA2538 15cm at the walls that are 3m tall + 5cm rebound foam RG80
I don't immediately find the density og them but maybe you find it somewhere on the webs.
Also they just use standard 2000x1500mm
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I've had this problem on my board with everything from the screw in t-nuts, pinning screws and screw-ons (which use Core's recommended size; M5 50mm from memory?). I put it down to the plywood compressing and the changing conditions (moisture?) from Summer to Winter affecting the wood. These were all smashed in without adequate care using an 18v impact driver.
Cheers, ye I had wondered if it might have been changes in temperature or humidity causing the loosening. Think will just aim to re-tighten on a regular basis.
If you really don't want them to move then get some gorilla glue on them. You won't get them back of again though in one piece though I don't think.
Had thought of doing that but tend to move my holds about fairly regularly!
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I've just got a set of really crap screw-ons spaced regularly in the gaps between the holds that never get moved even if everything else on the board does.
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I have quite a few holds drilled for M10 bolts, but not so many that I want a grid of T-nuts on my board.
I intend to set my next board slowly over the space of a month or so, and i'd like to be able to place screw on holds and T-nut holds wherever I want, but I won't have access to the back of the board. Is there a good solution that doesn't involve removing the plywood and installing a T-nut from the back every time I want to add a new M10 hold (I won't be doing this)?
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Lonestar? It's a bolt-to-screw converter: https://www.climbingwallservices.com/collections/climbing-wall-equipment/products/the-lonestar-screw-washer-m5
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Interesting, although most holds will need more than 1 screw, so it would need to be supplemented with drilling additional holes in the hold. On plastic holds this might be a bit of a bodge.
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Interesting, although most holds will need more than 1 screw, so it would need to be supplemented with drilling additional holes in the hold. On plastic holds this might be a bit of a bodge.
If you want a more ghetto version of the lonestar you can just use a washer, I've got a few of the right size in the garage so will measure them up if you're interested. Combined with a chunky screw (6mm diam) these can work well. Helps to have an impact driver as they're pretty big screws.
If you haven't got too many holds, or you're adding them slowly, then adding extra holes for set screws is pretty non-faffy. I've done it with almost all the PE holds on my board as there are no t nuts. Just needs a 5mm drill bit and a countersink bit and you get a nice clean finish. Obviously you need to think a bit about where the holes are going but it's never been an issue on the holds I've put up (admittedly mostly larger stuff).
I haven't tried it on PU as all the PU holds I have came with screw on options molded in.
If you're feeling lazy then ramming a couple of 5mm screws down the bolt hole also works for most small to medium holds. Adding a pin screw helps stop any spinning. Not recommended for larger holds though, especially jugs. The extra leverage means you can rip holds off the board pretty easily. Recommended even less if you're also using cheap ply.
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You can buy the cupped washers pretty readily if you want something between remus' solution and the Lonestar.
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If you're feeling lazy then ramming a couple of 5mm screws down the bolt hole also works for most small to medium holds. Adding a pin screw helps stop any spinning. Not recommended for larger holds though, especially jugs. The extra leverage means you can rip holds off the board pretty easily.
Didn't someone call this dirty euro somewhere?
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Since the lonestar thing is sold out, cupped washers with an extra pin screw doesn't actually seem like too much of a bodge based on your description. I'll be using 18mm ply and won't have any jugs, so it should be reasonably sturdy. Remus, if you could measure your washers that would be great.
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I asked a route setter about this a few years back and have a photo of a bag of these:
https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/products/no12-solid-brass-turned-knurled-surface-screw-cup
(the part numbers match).
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...and won't have any jugs...
Proper boulderer!
The ones I've used have a 15mm OD and 5.5mm ID. These look very similar https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-steel-large-flat-washers-m5-x-1-2mm-100-pack/871ft
Pretty tight on a 6mm screw. 5mm + a set screw would be fine for non-jugs imo.
This is how they sit in use https://photos.app.goo.gl/2twsJVy7t367RF9B6
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Thanks all, I'll be giving this a try in the next couple of weeks.
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Yep as others have said I have loads of resin holds with M10 bolt holes and have always just used a larger (6mm max) diameter screw with a washer, or ideally some washer head Spax screws so no washer required!
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I T-nutted mine but might use this approach to move a few of the awkwardly placed bolt-ons. Nice one. And my board does have jugs!
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https://www.accu.co.uk/solid-countersunk-washers/611609-HKW-M6-A1
Commonly used at commercial walls.
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Any thoughts on stud size and at what centers?
The Metolius guide states that steep walls greater than 9 feet in height should use 2x8's or even 2x10's at 16 inch centers. I don't mind a bit of over-engineering to be on the safe side, but this seems more appropriate for building a nuclear bunker?
For reference, i'll be going with a 2.7m tall 50 board (4.2m climbing length) supported by the existing structure (brick garage with a timber-frame floor above).
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I used 50x125mm (2x5) rafters at 500mm centres for my moonboard and its solid as houses. However the rafters are fixed to a beam at the top and at half height so the span is smaller. If I only fixed at the top of the rafters I would probably go for a larger section size such as a 2x8. Its also worth bearing in mind the thickness of ply for deflection between rafters. I used 21mm and that is fine with my spacing, but if I were to use 18mm it may be worth reducing the spacing. Bear in mind that this is for a super solid board and you could likely get away with far less.
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Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know but it's a combination thing; the ply is spanning between your timbers so closer c/c is asking the ply to do less work. In reality what this will change is how much it deflects. Thicker ply will deflect less in the same way a thicker joist (or higher grade joist) will deflect less for the same load.
I used 225 x 50 C24 joists (I think at around 600mm c/c - I can go and measure later on) with 18mm thk. ply and it doesn't deflect at all. I don't think it's over-designed but it IS more than most people would install (and I actually wanted slightly smaller timbers but didn't have the option 'cos pandemic etc.).
EDIT: What jeh said!
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Thanks both. It seems that 2x8's at 16 inch centers isn't a million miles out then, so i'll just go with something like that. I'll be using decent 18mm plywood too (which is extortionate these days!).
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You wanna one of these...
https://www.timberbeamcalculator.co.uk/en-gb/span-table/rafters?load=0.75&class=C24&slope=30
2x6s should be fine, span tables saying at 45deg 2x6s will do 4m @ 400 centres. So 50 at 16 inch not a greate deal difference. And, these are span tables to hold up a roof!
I have a 50 board, which are 2x6 at 300 centres over 3.9m, which is also the roof (slate roof) and occasionally my misses. Doesn't budge a mm.
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Has anyone tried using concrete form plywood for a board ? it's not crazy expensive, hardwood and it has a hard wearing coating that'd provide a durable surface so on paper it'd be decent.
https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/plywood-prc-120gm-film-faced-hardwood-core-18-x-1220-x-2440mm/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLGjBhDKARIsAFRNgW_1s5-LiBlAD3pu3iAwcXbO-rmYH9D_-F1JH01uTP8pa10Tv10XIbQaAs1AEALw_wcB (https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/plywood-prc-120gm-film-faced-hardwood-core-18-x-1220-x-2440mm/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLGjBhDKARIsAFRNgW_1s5-LiBlAD3pu3iAwcXbO-rmYH9D_-F1JH01uTP8pa10Tv10XIbQaAs1AEALw_wcB)
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It's always good if you can have a look at the plywood before hand. See how good the gluing is and how straight the layers are. If you can get your hands on a good 21mm birch without having to mortgage your house I'd go for that and even dare to go cc 120 for the rafters.
As the birch tends to come from Russia it hasn't been easy to get hold of.
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As the birch tends to come from Russia it hasn't been easy to get hold of.
A friend started to import birch ply from Lithuania. Cheap if you buy in bulk.
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Thanks both. It seems that 2x8's at 16 inch centers isn't a million miles out then, so i'll just go with something like that. I'll be using decent 18mm plywood too (which is extortionate these days!).
You wouldn't want board sag reducing the peak load and therefore your rate of force development gains....
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Heavier members of the School (original) mentioned 'revving' the board, which was essentially using that to their advantage. It did flex quite a lot when the larger units were trying hard!
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There's still a few gaps to fill, but the new board is getting there now. The stats are: 51 degrees, 3 sheets of ply long, a horizontal roof just over 2m long, then a 1m ish vertical section. The inclusion of the folding weight rack / pullup bar was a great decision as it stores away flat to the wall in 10 seconds, opening up the roof section. So far i've mostly been setting problems on the board, but have a couple of roof problems from standing, inspired by outdoor roof problems. Adding sit starts to these could make decent power endurance problems!
I'd be well psyched to have people over for a session, and to set some problems I wouldn't come up with myself. (South Leeds LS27)
(https://i.ibb.co/rMzGY0G/P1024156-1.jpg)
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I'll build a board in our new apartment, and I am keen on having it adjustable. Does anyone here has any experience with linear electric actuators? That seems like a neat way of changing the angle + making it stable.
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What are peoples favourite screw-on low-profile wooden jugs?
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How big is juggy? I find these good for better holds and circuits https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p142/Incut_Edges.html#/
Rick Ginns makes nice oak holds https://www.strongholds.co.uk/shop
and probes on here makes nice board holds https://crusherholds.co.uk/product-category/wooden-holds/
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I'll build a board in our new apartment, and I am keen on having it adjustable. Does anyone here has any experience with linear electric actuators? That seems like a neat way of changing the angle + making it stable.
Not much, no. But something I'm working on at work just now I'd making me think - make sure you have a fail safe backup! Wouldn't fancy a board collapsing on top of me.
I'd also expect that, unless cost is no object, an electrically adjustable board for home use won't be viable?
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Is the cost going to be that bad? My garage had a UB at the ridge and I nearly went for a solution using an electric hoist for adjusting it and chains for then fixing it in position.
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Electric hoist would be fairly cheap, linear actuators maybe less so? I dunno, not really looked into it just remember having to shell out £ks for them on a wind turbine roof after they broke.
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I nearly went for a solution using an electric hoist for adjusting it and chains for then fixing it in position.
Seems overengineered for putting a climbing shoe on.
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More questions. I'm sure this has been covered, but what is the lowdown on painting a home wall?
I like the black non-sticky paint of the Kilterboard. Seems to leave no visible rubber marks from shoes. How do I achieve this? Assume that I have no knowledge of painting.
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Surely painting it white and hating yourself for every single imprecise foot placement for the rest of time is a far more JWI solution :whip:
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Everyone assumes that I will be the sole user of this wall, but my other half is more keen on climbing than I am.
I never drag a foot along a board, obviously. But others might.
Is chalkboard paint still the beta?
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I can't help with black. I went with a matte varnish and you can just wipe off the rubber marks when you wish/can be bothered.
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Everyone assumes that I will be the sole user of this wall, but my other half is more keen on climbing than I am.
I never drag a foot along a board, obviously. But others might.
Is chalkboard paint still the beta?
A little late in the day but…
I used Matt furniture paint and considered black but thought it may be a bit gloomy. I went for dark grey in the end with some light gray for surrounds. I’m pleased with the results and you can barely see any rubber from your other half’s drags :hug:
Hope you and J well
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Any recommendations for some positive board footholds?
Due to have a baby soon so I am looking for some really positive feet which will help my wife get back on the board when the time is right. They need to be screw on holds 👍🏻
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I'd go for these James, they do 30mm ones too https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p179/Core_20mm_Foot_Holds.html
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I'd go for these James, they do 30mm ones too https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p179/Core_20mm_Foot_Holds.html
Cheers, they look perfect! We currently use the wooden domes on their website. I don’t know how i missed the others when looking the other day.
It’s nice they can flip as well once the incut side becomes fine to use :strongbench:
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https://coreclimbing.co.uk/product/geo-screw-on-feet-20mm/
Cheaper and more colours direct from Core
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We do 18 & 25mm oak blocks, one to consider in the options mix :)
https://crusherholds.co.uk/product/wooden-climbing-foot-blocks/
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As I asked a few questions on this thread before, I thought I could be a good idea to post a short review of the board I build. It can also be useful for others who think about getting the mini moonboard.
https://steepground.blogspot.com/2024/01/mini-moonboard-review.html
For those who cannot be bothered to read all that: I really like the mini.
The blogpost is a slightly edited translation of a review I wrote in Swedish. The translation is done by myself and machines (never translate yourself and never use the method of editing machinetranslation regardless of how little time you have), so apologies in advance for the clunky writing.
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It's possible to change the effective angle of a board by using volumes, which could be handy when making replicas. The problem is that I don't want these volumes on my board all the time. Can anyone think of a way to quickly attach/detach volumes (e.g. some sort of quick release brackets)? If I have to drive screws in each session then the plywood will soon look like a sieve.
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If you want them in the same places could you just T nut the right spots and then add recessed bolt holes in the corners of the volumes?
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Unfortunately, I can't get to the back of my board without taking the ply off otherwise that would have been a good idea!
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Some sort of French cleat? Either made yourself with wood or using something like these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BDHI-Aluminum-Supports-Interlocking-01/dp/B09YNF5ST6/ref=asc_df_B09YNF5ST6/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=588076632935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18280423684178559871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006912&hvtargid=pla-1660082438826&psc=1&mcid=90fa36a87e5f336384be2ba69289b88b
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Or could you reverse build them to your board? Sort out the volume base/ fixings to fit your existing T nuts, then build the volume onto that with a panel on it you screw/unscrew to reach the bolts…
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Cut a square hole in the board (with a multi tool), feed a rectangular bit of wood with a t-nut in it through the hole and secure it either side. Replace the square with a mildly oversized hole to make things flush and use with a long bolt to secure whatever.
Alternatively overlay with plywood pre drilled and t-nutted and drill through the original plywood so the bolt has somewhere to go. This would probably need marking, drilling and then refitting.
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I like the sound of the plywood pattress with T-nut. Seems straightforward, cheap and effective.
I don't have any T-nuts on my board currently otherwise I would have just built volumes around them. I'm not sure a French cleat would give enough lateral stability.
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Ive seen something similar with the french cleats. You could try having a couple of additional cleats spun 90 deg, spun opposite to each other, this would stop any sideways movement. It would take some giggery pokery to get them lined up.
Failing that could you slap a couple of bits of 2x2, fixed to the board, with a 10mm hole through at 90 deg. And fix tnut to volume and m10 bolt through 2x2 into tnut in volume. Done on both side of volume it would hold it. Not pretty.
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Who's going to fess up then :P
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/icpbnFZqan4y98X9/
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That page isn’t loading.
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If anyone is still wondering when lonestar washers will be available you can now get filth nuggets from climbing wall services. They seem to do the job really well so would recommend.