UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: remus on June 20, 2021, 09:38:00 pm
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Maybe a bit niche, but anyone got some knowledge on what you do after the big undercuts?
I tried going right (rh to a decent sidepull/undercut, lh in to the thin crack in the corner) and throwing for the break but it felt miles away and pretty hard (made the distance to the break but it felt pretty slopey and wank). Also tried going left (rh gaston in the corner crack then lh to a high undercut) which was marginally more successful but still felt totally nails.
Is there some foot magic to make it work? Am I just weak and shit?
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I looked at this briefly last year and decided I was too short.
I haven't got any useful beta other than I asked the FA about it and he said he used the big sidepulll out right. He's also 6ft+ though.
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Good knowledge, sounds like it could just be a height thing then.
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That sounds about right. I haven't been on it but it's also been upgraded for the new select. "The short will not be granted an audience."
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I have done it but can't remember much about it sequence wise. I'm definitely not as tall as the FA so it is possible for those none giants.
I recall it's punchy and the rock quality was good?
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Maybe a bit niche, but anyone got some knowledge on what you do after the big undercuts?
I tried going right (rh to a decent sidepull/undercut, lh in to the thin crack in the corner) and throwing for the break but it felt miles away and pretty hard (made the distance to the break but it felt pretty slopey and wank).
Sorry for the very late response. That is the exact sequence I used. There is a good bit in the slopey break but it will need cleaning as it gathers crud. Shame it sees so little attention, good little route I thought