UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => MoonBoard => Topic started by: csl on June 01, 2018, 08:21:08 am
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The Arch has recently updated their Moonboard to the 2017 moonboard masters setup (with the red + wooden holds) which I'm not getting into quite as much as the previous setup.
I enjoyed the personal recommendations from this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26939.0.html)
So, any recommendations on the new setup? Any grade welcome, but especially 7A-7B
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From the small number of sessions I've had on that board, I'd recommend the following two:
- BU77S14YER 7A
- Dark side of the moon 7A
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"Flowers Katja" was pretty good I thought!
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The Arch has recently updated their Moonboard to the 2017 moonboard masters setup (with the red + wooden holds) which I'm not getting into quite as much as the previous setup.
I'm also finding this setup less fun than the previous one.
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I also don't like it as much. Two main things I've realized:
1. I don't like the red holds very much.
2. at the harder grades, the new setup has too many decent holds in the middle of the board, which makes huge moves the standard for many of the new problems.
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Yes, I agree - some of the red holds are junk.
However, there are some great problems set by someone called "HoSeok Lee" on there - really very good!
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Thanks, will give those a try! I enjoyed Genesis Chain, but need to get my teeth stuck into some harder things!
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I spent a bit more time on the red holds and actually started enjoying them a fair bit - mainly because they suit my strengths (big moves between big holds). Some of the problems that I enjoyed in the 6C - 7A+ish range were:
- Red Lorry
- Monster Family (which felt hard for 6C+)
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Made a couple tonight which I think are quite good. Apologies if the grades are soft, I’m short with weak fingers...
Little Squeak 7A
Big Squeak 7B - haven’t actually done this yet but the app doesn’t let you save problems before publishing ☹️