UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: ian h on July 09, 2004, 11:49:50 pm
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southern sandstone of course. great place to visit
you can shoot me down now if you like
:sniper:
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I agree actually. I was always a bit dubious of going as I`d not heard great things about it. I`ve been to Eridge but only did a couple of problems and also to High Rocks which although you have to pay £2 (go into the pub to get yourself a ticket) to use was really worth it. It`s in a beautiful pub garden and has what looks like some really nice problems and highballs.
I would recommend trying to go with someone who knows the area and can point out the better climbs but when I was there it was quite busy and people were pretty friendly so you can always ask around once there.
The problems I liked were a sit start to a big arete, might be called Brenva? Big dyno on the way in - Chez`s dyno? - didn`t manage to do this and a dyno to the middle break slightly to it`s right. Not sure of any of the grades of these, there`s lots of supposedly easy stuff too which are generally nails and serve to batter your ego :oops:
Which other areas are worth visiting and which problems would people recommend?
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hey ian, I'm heading down on friday (16th) and leaving monday night. As great as the bouldering is I want to do some roped routes. I want to try Cool Bananas (needs a solo) and try Chimeara. We'll soon find out if the crux is really 7B. I just wanted to know what conditions these routes are in... dry/clean/etc.... thanks.
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Hi keith. We have had pretty mank weather down hear recently so the rock is not in the best condition. I have not looked at cool bananas recently but i suspect it will be damp. For what its worth i think it is rated at around 7c + sport grade. Chimera should be dry up through the groove but the top out will need cleaning down. I should be around on sat or sun afternoon if the weather sorts itself out.
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:guns:
I must confess I really enjoy Nicotine Alley though...
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tim :
you are correct the tall arete is brenva and goes from the sit at around font 7a+ but prob feels about 7b till you have it wired. and chez dyno goes anything from font 7a - 7c depending on which method / how tall you are.
fiend :
i rekon you could do with an update of all the new boulder probs in the area that have cropped in the last few years. i know you used to climb sandstone and dont rate it. but it is true there are now some serious quality for the font 6c - 7c+ boulderer. very little of which is documented, so you are probably unaware of most of the new wave of bouldering.
seriously there are new problems that will piss all over nicotine alley in terms of quality.
you never know you might change your opinion, open your mind
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I think you're right actually - I think as a bouldering/highballing venue it's a lot more respectable. That would be a pretty cool future for it, fuck the top-ropes and scary sandy solos and invest in some serious American-style double bed mat business...
But if it's mostly...
serious quality for the font 6c - 7c+ boulderer.
...I'm unlikely to get the most out of it :wink:
P.S. :blow:
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Hi Ian,
How you doing?
Was down High Rocks on Saturday for a couple hours before it started pissing down. Is it you guys responsible for cleaning that slab up to the right of Honeycomb? If it was, did you do it?
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Hi Ian,
How you doing?
Was down High Rocks on Saturday for a couple hours before it started pissing down. Is it you guys responsible for cleaning that slab up to the right of Honeycomb? If it was, did you do it?
the slab is whiff waff, tim skinner cleaned it up last tuesday and was trying to rope it. its english 6b and needs a solo. so maybe tomorrow if it is dry enough. looks totally classic and is really just a high ball.
also eyed up a few new lines with ian on sunday evening, most of em will need a brush. was looking at maybe trying a direct start to unforgetable direct up the arete from the floor.
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Aaaah. It was funny Ches stuck a bit of chalk on it and then all of a sudden its all scrubbed up. Just makes makes you think- stick a bit of chalk on something and it gets cleaned for free :lol:
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just heard about some project at Eridge... can any of you locals give me some more information? All i know is that it's past the main section of the crag, apparently there's a cave or something and that Ian S. has been trying it for a while...
I'll be on a coach to london at 6am and hopefully on the sandstone tomorrow, sat, sun, and mon if the weather holds out.
peace.
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Keith,
Do you think you're gonna get the nod on Ians's project? :lol: No chance! :lol:
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just heard about some project at Eridge... can any of you locals give me some more information? All i know is that it's past the main section of the crag, apparently there's a cave or something and that Ian S. has been trying it for a while...
I'll be on a coach to london at 6am and hopefully on the sandstone tomorrow, sat, sun, and mon if the weather holds out.
peace.
i will be down at high rocks late on sunday if your around
i cant tell you where ians project is he would never forgive me, but you may wanna try some of the unrepeated existing problems such as nightfall which takes a sit start to ken clean air system at least 7c+ or yankee affair which starts from the back of the cave below parisian affiar without the sidewall, grade ?
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wicked. ok, had a good chilled day at high rocks day... did brenva ss for the video (fancy hosting it bubba?) and did chez's dyno which felt good! I'll be at high rocks tomorrow (hopefully on chimeara). I walked down the whole of eridge and found nothing! must be well hidden or really shit looking! :shock: :8) no offence chaps. Hopefully see some of you tomorrow...
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brenva ss for the video (fancy hosting it bubba?)
If it's nice qualidy then yes - send it over :)
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I'll be at high rocks tomorrow (hopefully on chimeara). I walked down the whole of eridge and found nothing! must be well hidden or really shit looking! :shock: :8) no offence chaps. Hopefully see some of you tomorrow...
i should be down about 4:30. weather permitting.
must be well hidden then cos it is on rock which is in great condition :lol:. anyway judging by your post above whoever you have been speaking to, is way off the mark with the info they have given you. :wink:
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where is this ken clean air system? having today off due to excess partying in london... btu will be down tomorrow too, then back to sheffield. Also, who did Yankee Affair, and is the cave right at the start of eridge? If it is, from what i can see you just go from the decent handholds to that little pocket, then foot by your hand and a huge press into parisian affair... is that right? Going to head down tomorrow, btu want to find ken clean air system... so any info is appreciated.
Cheers.
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where is this ken clean air system? having today off due to excess partying in london... btu will be down tomorrow too, then back to sheffield. Also, who did Yankee Affair, and is the cave right at the start of eridge? If it is, from what i can see you just go from the decent handholds to that little pocket, then foot by your hand and a huge press into parisian affair... is that right? Going to head down tomorrow, btu want to find ken clean air system... so any info is appreciated.
Cheers.
pete z did the first and only ascent of both the above problems. yes yankee affair is in the cave at the start of the crag. i think pete did it footless but i not sure. i suppose you could put your foot up by your hand just not on the left side wall.
ken clean air system is a bit difficult to describe the location of but it takes an arete from a sit start and is down in the second half of the crag around 20 meters before a steep boulder wave is reached this wave features the routes steel mill etc and is likely to be chalked at the base. with a bit of luck there may be some chalk on a few of the holds although i dont think anyone is trying it recently. in my opinion it is stupendously hard and vastly under graded at font 7c+
i did not make it down sunday as weather was not good but should be at high rocks tomorrow evening.
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weather was good on sunday! did chez's dyno again for teh video, but it was so rushed because the battery was dying it came out really crap. This footless method of yankee affair looks incredibly difficult. However, we will be there from 10am tomorrow so will try it. Who knows...
so i'm looking for an arete with ss before the wave... OH! I think i might know what you're talking about... it's got what looks like a slopy topout and it's on a block of it's own (I think i am thinking of the right thing). You would slap your right hand up the arete (from what i could see) and then slap the very slopey looking top... Eridge was quite scary the other day because there were about a million spiders under all the bracken. they were running all over our feet and our stuff...
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Think the arete problem you describe on the block on its own sounds like the mini merville and is about font 6c+ / 7a nice little problem though . Yankee affair is rock hard hence no repeat yet
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unklesomebody
wondered how you got on other weekend any joy finding nightfall or on yankee affair. also did you make it onto chimera.
are the videos still gonna go on here. would like to see em.
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well, yankee affair was in shit cnodition. The break you start on was totally green, damp, and sandy as hell. Also, it looked nigh on impossible. The span between the starting holds and the holds on parisian affair is something like 6ft so I have no idea how you would do that! As for that other arete, i didn't bother seeking it out, it was so hot that all we did was sit around and solo some easy (but very sandy!) routes.
I need to edit the videos, but they are really shitty. The battery was about to die, so I just dumped the camera on teh floor at an angle that would get chez's dyno in the frame and did it. But, I'll see what it looks like on the computer and shizzle then consider putting it up. It just doesn't look hard or far enough in the video!!!
Chimeara was dirty as hell. I abbed down it, to have a close look. It seems ot be there is one short sequence that would be really hard, but the rest of it might be ok. As always, it's hard to say until you've tried it, but it was dirty and slightly damp. It really needs to see some traffic, as with most stuff down there. It's a real shame, cause I think there are some amazing lines on the sandstone, but they are just never in condition. oh well...
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It's a real shame, cause I think there are some amazing lines on the sandstone, but they are just never in condition. oh well...
definitely...sandstone has some real hidden gems; i quite like its reputation as being shite because it means that the really good stuff doesn't get climbed on that much :D
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yesterday jim wardle climbed a new problem "the fonz" this problem basically cosists or doing "happy days" minus the two thumb placements dynoing from the starting holds to the normal holds of happy days. grade ? but harder than happy days.
also yesterday jim, andy o conner and, chez all climbed the slab of whiff waff, this was completed as a high ball boulder problem and therfore jumped at the top break, instead of climbing up into the undergrowth. grade for this is thought to be around high ball font 7a.
:8) :8) :8) :8) :8)
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the fonz sounds like an interesting problem. The ground where you put your feet seems to be getting lower and lower! Be good to see a video or pics of this, because it sounds like you crouch, then just lunge straight out!!
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That is exactly how it is done
i was not down tuesday but will be having a try this evening
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repeated "the fonz" quality confirmed as anybody who has been on happy days could probably imagine
did not get on whiff waff feeling lazy. but i got a couple of new lines in mind i gonna clean up a bit tomorrow. :D
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Please could someone recommend me some problems to attempt on the Southern Sandstone.
I was thinking of going down maybe next week and don't really know the area very well although I should have someone to show me round a bit. I might have a chance at anything up to about 7c but don't really mind about the grade so much so long as they are nice problems. Thanks,
Tim
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Tim, depending on the weather, go to High Rocks (you must call and book in advance) and try,
Brevna Sit Start,
The slab to the right
Ches' Dyno
The dyno to the right of the above
The arete right of Kinda Lingers (jump off at the pockets)
Kinda Lingers sit or jump start
Bowling Green arete
7b mantel to the right
The Mojo
The little Nose to the left from the sit
The left arete (JPS) of the Matterhorn (and link it with Old Kent Road traverse)
Pammy
Should keep you going for a day! :D
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Great thanks that should indeed keep me busy for more than just 1 day I would have thought. Done Brenva SS and dyno to the right of Chez's but not tried many of the others I don't think. Sounds like a good little circuit if you get them all wired.
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Just thougt of a couple more..
Look Sharp Start (or the whole thing if its dry) Scary and you want a few pads
Shattered (the whole thing- A bit high but the top-outs like 4c)
Brevna (by its right hand side) Quite sketchy.
The little sit start just the other side of the tree near Brevna. A nice warm up
All around the base of the Isolated boulder are masses of eliminates which form a very good circuit as well.
Have fun.
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highly recommend chez's dyno... just so you can see honky fall off it! tee hee...
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He gave me the impression he cruised it on the phone :wink: . I am expecting him to lap it for me along with everything else the amount of time he must have spent down there in the past month :lol:.
I did try it last time I was there actually. I found I could get as close without the sidepulls/undercuts as with - admittedly not very close either way. I always make an attempt at doing dyno's gracefully get nowhere near then get pissed off and totally brutalize them (obviously that is a fairly relative term as anyone who has met me will know) - quite often seems to make all the difference.
Have a good trip to America, you got a dream tick list in the pipeline yet? You'll have to start a places to visit in America thread.
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he he he... he didn't quite manage it last time we were there, and he still hasn't done it AFAIK. I'm sure you and your spring legs will be able to do it, it's all timing... once you crack it you can do it every go. I gaurantee (not money back) you will get it if you try it a few times when you get down there. You should try the start of chimeara... a boulder problem in it's own right. I want people to start trying this so it will get clean! I will be down on aug 19th for 4 days on the sandstone. Hopefully this time round I'll get something done...
my america ticklist is long and full of big numbers, which will result in great shouts of frustration when i can't do them! :lol: we've all got to dream though.
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looks like a pretty complete list to me that carnage has put together.
but you could also get on the porgs wall and whiff waff. also vandal is dry at the moment.
tim what day you coming down?
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Not sure precisely, I was going to meet up with Neil (guess you know him?) in London and then maybe make a couple of day trips if I can beg a space on his floor :D.
Hopefully will be sometime next week/weekend if I get my arse in gear at work to justify taking the time off :wink: (I am supposed to be writing up) and the weather is in agreement. Are you often around High Rocks? Will be sure to say hello if I see you, probably end up introducing myself to loads of strangers thinking they might be you :oops:
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how can you miss a fit looking blond that is constantly stripping?
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yeah i am always at high rocks. i should be down tues and thurs evening and possible wed and sun as well.
i got a big blue franklin pad that should narrow down your search a bit
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maybe post a photo on the appropriat thread (mingers or hotties, your choice!)...
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Hi guys after 2 fucking months I finally have internet back
Tim get your arse over to mine I been in the sandstone everyday since you were last down
Keith I finally bagged the dyno after 3 days, im so shit.
Been doing a lot of hunting in the last few days, found some good stuff. Had a good day at eridge down the right hand side, did all those problems down there, apart from the project.
I heard about a bit of a project over at toads rock, so went to have a look last week and it was wet, so went today, boy the rock was fucked, someone has hacked it to peices, its the hanging nose right behind the toad itself, I think its beeen done before anyway, but the boys have trashed it cleaned it behond use
Ian if you are still intersted in getting some topos together drop me an email, I have been busy taking pictures, I think its time the sandstone hand a nice little bouldr guide
laters
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i'd be a bit careful tim when neil says "get your arse over to mine"... you can't imagine the things he's going to do to it.
Neil, I hope you have video evidence or reliable witnesses for your ascent of this dyno! :lol:
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the little man was my witness you can ask him
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Been doing a lot of hunting in the last few days, found some good stuff. Had a good day at eridge down the right hand side, did all those problems down there, apart from the project.
I heard about a bit of a project over at toads rock, so went to have a look last week and it was wet, so went today, boy the rock was fucked, someone has hacked it to peices, its the hanging nose right behind the toad itself, I think its beeen done before anyway, but the boys have trashed it cleaned it behond use
Ian if you are still intersted in getting some topos together drop me an email, I have been busy taking pictures, I think its time the sandstone hand a nice little bouldr guide
interested what problems you ticked down at eridge as quite a few were unrepeated (yankee affair, hypersonic, nightfall, tusky, and possible the watchtower)
the rock at denny bottom (toad rock) has been trashed for many years. it is just really soft down there, i think it is allot to do with all kids who scramble around on it. quite allot of tourists go down there to look at the toad, etc.
i am not really up for the guide book thing as i dont think the rock could support the masses bouldering all over it. i like the rock too much to see it get trashed. however i got no problem with showing individuals the problems.
it would also be cool to meet up if you are about. i will be down high rocks tonight and also prob tomorrow thurs and sun. hope to see you about soon.
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i am not really up for the guide book thing as i dont think the rock could support the masses bouldering all over it. i like the rock too much to see it get trashed. however i got no problem with showing individuals the problems.
Word Ian. Guidebook= Bad idea.
Especially considering High Rocks is the best venue but the access situation has the potential to go tits-up (access is up for the yearly review in Sept) and the rock certainly doesn't need anymore pressure than its already getting.
I thought/was hoping that this idea had been shelved......
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Word Ian. Guidebook= Bad idea.
Especially considering High Rocks is the best venue but the access situation has the potential to go tits-up (access is up for the yearly review in Sept) and the rock certainly doesn't need anymore pressure than its already getting.
I thought/was hoping that this idea had been shelved......
as far as i know there is gonna be a load more bouldering in the new mike v cc guide. but it is just gonna be mixed in with the routes. i still not convinced that even this is a good idea. :? :roll:
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I'm certainly not convinced. However I won't be around when it comes out and will on some new slighter harder Sandstone in Sydney.
I just hate the idea of the good old soft stuff getting trashed or access lost for the sake of a book. :evil: :evil:
I mean- Whats the point of a book/guide? To get more people there (apart from making money) which is exactly what it doesn't need. Theres enough regulars around who are quite happy to share the good stuff with the visitor if asked nicely!
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interested what problems you ticked down at eridge as quite a few were unrepeated (yankee affair, hypersonic, nightfall, tusky, and possible the watchtower)
I did a lot of stuff right down the right hand side, nothing really to hard, on the barrel bit way down right, and some sit start arete down there aswell, and the obvious arete 7a thing which i thought about 6c
On the guide thing, i wasnt really on about writting a guide, more of a little topo for people guiding them into areas rather than trashing the vegetation trying to find all these hidden problems, but I totally respect the idea of a guide is a bad idea.
As for meeting up that would be cool I just got back from high rocks, was down there for 10.30 today, I can only do days, as i look after my son all day and bed time is 8 for him. but if you are around this weekend then i think tim might be coming aswell.
I just had a quick play on the fonz, cool moves didnt do it as its a bit to hot today, also the slab at honeycomb wall, wicked little problem although a little high.
Do you know what grades the 4 problems are in the trees to the right of brenva, i was dabbling today but the tops were a little wet, I only managed the left hand problem
Well cheers for the betta, and i would be keen to know what problems i did at eridge
neil
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When you say to the right of Brevna, I presuming you mean down the little path and its the 'Bowling Green' boulders.
Going left to right from the side facing towards the entrance...
First theres a little dyno thing. Grade? Pretty easy.
Then you've got one one on good holds up to a slap to a weird sloping pinch thing. I'd say a bout Font 6c ish.
The the 3 star arete, on its right side (not named)- good holds to a crumbly undercut for the left and and up to an good hold for the right and a tough move to get a two finger pocket and then go again to a hold well back. About 6c+ /7a
Then theres 2 tough slopey mantels - one is around 7b and I dunno about the other one, but it'll start with a 7.
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Cheers carnage, We had a go at an independant line to the left of the arete rather than the right of the arete, is this on of the tough mantlethings
But cheers for grades, I did the left arete, nice and easy even with the wet top out.
Sorry for being cheeky but do I know you from mile end or the castle, im trying to put a face to your name, I climb down at mile end alot, and use to set the bouldering at westway
neil
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Cheers carnage, We had a go at an independant line to the left of the arete rather than the right of the arete, is this on of the tough mantlethings
neil
the independent line to the left of arete is also around font 6c-7a, although can feel harder until you know how. it is personally my favorite prob on the boulder.
however all the problems on these boulders can vary in grade loads depending on conditions.
also the undercut should feel a little less cruberly now as i painted it up last week.
the slab right of honeycomb wall? do you mean wall with writing on it "wishful thinking" if so font 6b but will feel harder at the mo as it needs cleaning up properly. i saw some chalk on the crimps tonight.
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Sorry for being cheeky but do I know you from mile end or the castle, im trying to put a face to your name, I climb down at mile end alot, and use to set the bouldering at westway
Don't think so. I climb at the Castle most of the time and rarely venture to Mile End. I mostly do Saturdays on SS but don't get out as much as I'd like to. But all thats gonna change soon............oh yes.........
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the slab right of honeycomb wall? do you mean wall with writing on it "wishful thinking" if so font 6b but will feel harder at the mo as it needs cleaning up properly. i saw some chalk on the crimps tonight.[/quote]
no not that one, I too saw the chalk MMMMM I meant by the steps way to the left of that the slab with the crack, jump of from the break, not pos to top out due to mud.
will you be around tomorow, im going to head to eridge i think late morning early afternoon, or any good problems you can point me at would be good
neil
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Neil,
I guessing the one you mean is 'Whiff Whaff' or whatever its called. An old route, recently cleaned. Was given Uk 6b+ in the JW guide. Top needs cleaning (if possible) for the solo.
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yeah previous mentioned sounds like wiff whaff to me as well.
did a new dyno today at high rocks
"final destination" is a huge dyno between routes of 181 ides of march and 182 lunge 'n' shelf. dynos from crack and low jug hold to the sloping top out.
grade font 7c+
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holy cow! 7C+ dyno! :shock: That sounds fucking hard to me. Good effort man... perhaps I'll come and fall off it when I come down! Why is it hard? ie. Shit holds to hang, long way, crap starting holds, crap feet, or a combination of all the above? any pics/vids?
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holy cow! 7C+ dyno! :shock: That sounds fucking hard to me. Good effort man... perhaps I'll come and fall off it when I come down! Why is it hard? ie. Shit holds to hang, long way, crap starting holds, crap feet, or a combination of all the above? any pics/vids?
although the dyno is off good holds it is a long distance, however the real difficulties lie in catching the top which is mega sloping (this is where it gets the grade).
it is way harder than any other dyno i have ever done, and i fell off of it soooooooo many times. although i think if i showed someone the the fine details it could be done in much quicker.
pics should be on there way, as i will be back down there tomorrow to take a few.
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Good effort Ian,
Now just wait for Ches to downgrade it. :wink: :lol:
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Good effort Ian,
Now just wait for Ches to downgrade it. :wink: :lol:
yeah would be really interested to see ches on it, see what he thinks of it. if i can sort out my shifts for sat maybe we can get on it.
although went to high rocks tonight and the place was soaked, must have had masses of rain even happy days was wet.
so we ended up moving onto bowles. i got a nice photo sequence of ian s on his new sit start for the fandango wall, will try and put them on here at some point. :wink:
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me and the old springy legs hiomself tim 9foot 7 will be high rocks mid afternooon sat, very keen to give this dyno a go, we love dynos, will be at eridge early part of the morning for a warm up, can you point out some problems for us to try, 7a to 7c bracked would be good
cheers
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me and the old springy legs hiomself tim 9foot 7 will be high rocks mid afternooon sat, very keen to give this dyno a go, we love dynos, will be at eridge early part of the morning for a warm up, can you point out some problems for us to try, 7a to 7c bracked would be good
cheers
the watchtower 7b+ left of prowess.
samsana 7a+ slab left of parisian affair without aretes!
both at eridge
they should keep you going but make sure you have enough left for final destination.
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the watchtower 7b+ left of prowess.
samsana 7a+ slab left of parisian affair without aretes!
both at eridge
they should keep you going but make sure you have enough left for final destination.[/quote]
cheers been trying that slab, hard move of the pocket.
were does the watchtower go to ( the top) and were does it start
cheers
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Bummer, was going to get down to High Rocks on Saturday but I'm still packing up for my big move so it looks like I ain't gonna make it. :(
Shame, would've been good to meet you guys.
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The watch tower goes from a stand start under the left side of the prow. It then climbs straight up to top out via a flake
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Hi ian, just got back from high rocks, rest day today, but your dyno looks sweet, cant wait to get on it tomorow, Reminds me a bit like smatch at font. will give you a report tomorow night
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little bit like smatch but much harder :wink:
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back from high rocks today.
despite the sweltering heat jim w made 2nd ascent of final destination. in full on top boy style.
:twisted: :8) :twisted:
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does anyone know what these problems are at eridge, we want to know grades, for the straight up and the traverse
(http://www.canaryclimbs.com/eridgfe2.jpg)
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. i did that problem with ian h ages ago with a foot less start it can not be any harder than 7a i hope that has been a help . i am not suer about the other one but i will have ago and get back to you
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cheers mate, we thought around 7a/7a+, the traverse is a dream of mine tried it twice now, do the sit start, then follow the break all the way until you can step off on the lefty hand side, dont start going to high into the good pockets, be interesting to see what some one else thinks of it. personally i think its ard
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is this the barrel?
as jim said the straight up has been done at 7a from a footless start. although can feel a little bit harder as it can get a little bit sandy.
the traverse has also been done, i think by pete z, however left unnamed and ungraded, i do know it was done from left to right though. never tried it but also rekon it is fairly hard.
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possible new problem done at eridge last tuesday, just waiting to here here back from rob mazinke as to weather it takes a different line to his route "dr kemps cure"
i think the new line "ground force" goes just to the right of this and goes at at a reasonable grade of font 6b+/6c
first ascent by andy o conor then repeated by myself and jim w.
nice and easy but good quality and should be on everybodys eridge circuit
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well cool line if it is new but be careful of the leg breaking tree stump as ian found out (did break leg but f**ked ankle)