UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: remus on April 03, 2023, 11:27:08 am
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Su - Glorious day at Lad Stones. Started off on Earth's Cauldron, then flashed Shyla Stylez. Tried Traci Lords via the rollover beta and got the good hold each time but not quite well enough to match and top out. Only felt very slightly harder than Shyla. It seems defunct as a stand start problem now, amounting to little more than bad beta for the LH problem. Moved on. Had a few goes at Underground Butler but the RH crimp was eating skin. Moved onto the other side and did Hades Lair first go, then Warstarter. Flashed Warstarter but for the first move which is shared with Hades. Should have tried Warstarter first! Felt quite a bit easier than 7B+ but did use non-standard beta, skipping the high far-right hold and going straight for the crimp below the top. Then did the LH start to Hades Lair which was also good.
Then went to the pub. Beautiful.
Nice to meet you up there, can't believe how piss you made that lock beta on Warstarter look!
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Sounds like a great day in the Lakes, Will. I've been dying to get up to Lad Stones to try Groove Armada. If you saw that one, do you think it would be fine above 2 pads on my own?
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I didn't actually look at the landing of that but my impression of the crag was that absolutely nothing there is fine on your own with 2 pads. Groove Armada is higher than most things so it's quite possibly worse.
Nice to meet you up there, can't believe how piss you made that lock beta on Warstarter look!
It was more of a pop than a lock which might explain this! Nice to meet you and Michelle :)
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Sounds like a great day in the Lakes, Will. I've been dying to get up to Lad Stones to try Groove Armada. If you saw that one, do you think it would be fine above 2 pads on my own?
I had half an eye on it when I was wondering around. The landing is actually relatively flat but it's high, I think it'd be really spicy if you fell off above the groove, and there's quite a bit of climbing to do up there. If I was going up there on a solo mission I'd treat it as more of a headpoint kinda thing.
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On the FA report on UKC it says Jordan only had two pads:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2009/04/new_highball_super-problems-46856
That said I'd echo Will; Lad Stones is a 4 pads and a spotter type venue. I went on my own a couple of years ago with two, but thankfully there were several pads stashed up there which made it possible to do Stella in relative safety; wouldn't have done it if the stashed ones weren't there. No idea if they're still up there now.
Edit: seems they've been removed
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Cheers, it's good to see that the FA was done using only 2 pads. The landing looks fine on the photo and it's not that high so it's probably worth the walk up!
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Cheers, it's good to see that the FA was done using only 2 pads. The landing looks fine on the photo and it's not that high so it's probably worth the walk up!
The landing is staggered, there used to be a vid of dom bridgewood where he fell off high, and hit his spotter off and into the 2nd tier (which is a fair few meters more) without a spotter he would have ended up there instead I think. Dom stopped paying for vimeo though, so the video is in the abyss now
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Cheers, it's good to see that the FA was done using only 2 pads. The landing looks fine on the photo and it's not that high so it's probably worth the walk up!
Not that high :lol:
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I like a bit of high balling as much as the next person but groove armada without a spot would be distinctly beyond my comfort zone. Easily broken ankle territory, you can't roll on impact because the landing is several metres above the ground and it's a long way from the road.
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Cheers, it's good to see that the FA was done using only 2 pads. The landing looks fine on the photo and it's not that high so it's probably worth the walk up!
Not that high :lol:
Looks to be only 6 or 7 metres?
The stepped landing sounds like the issue, so I suppose it depends how easy it is to stay on the platform.
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Looks to be only 6 or 7 metres?
The stepped landing sounds like the issue, so I suppose it depends how easy it is to stay on the platform.
Leaving aside the idea that the word 'only' could reasonably preceed '7 metres', having stood under it there's no way I could ever describe it as not that high. It's massive!
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I'll trust the wisdom in this thread and wait for a team day then.