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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2020, 08:02:51 pm

Title: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2020, 08:02:51 pm
Anyone got any experience with knee issues?

Never suffered with my knees before (I’m 51) but not enjoying this.

 I resumed yoga and climbing at the start of Feb after a 2 month layoff due to a hand injury. Initially my right inner knee felt a bit sore which I put down to having stiffened up a bit. Then my left patella was really painful going downstairs on Monday. By the end of that day I couldn’t bend my knees or get up/downstairs without serious pain.

Bit better today, but still sore, hobbling and struggling on the stairs. Any bright ideas? Thanks!

Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Coops_13 on February 26, 2020, 08:10:05 pm
Knees are very complex with every knee injury I’ve ever had giving me pain in a location different to where the issue was. Apparently the wiring of nerves in the knee is a bit screwed up. The only way to really know what’s wrong is to see a specialist. There are lots of manipulation tests to diagnose certain things that you could try (may need a friend).
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2020, 08:14:00 pm
Thanks Coops. The fact it’s suddenly both knees, the jumping off problems and my age makes dread that it might be arthritis related. Did you suffer specific injuries?
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Coops_13 on February 26, 2020, 10:58:13 pm
Yeah I had a bucket handle tear of my meniscus 10 years ago and have since bruised the head of my femur due to missing the meniscus that was removed as a result of the tear. Ligaments all OK fortunately
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 26, 2020, 11:11:51 pm
Ouch! Glad it is working okay for you now.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: duncan on February 27, 2020, 08:52:01 am
Knees are very complex with every knee injury I’ve ever had giving me pain in a location different to where the issue was.

This is true for most injuries, see my response to tomtom regarding his shoulder.

J, sounds like a sudden increase in activity after the prolonged inactivity provoked a bit of pain. Not wanting to sound blunt but this is pretty common verging on normal for people of our age. It's why I try to always be doing something even when I have tweaks (see my power club entries ad nauseum). It's the rate of increase of activity that's more an issue than the activity itself.

Almost every 50-something's knees will have signs of arthritis on X-Ray and those signs will have probably been there for years, pain or no pain. This doesn't mean something of major concern and exercise will almost certainly help.  First step (cough) is to allow things to settle for a couple of days then gradually introduce some knee strengthening work e.g. mini-squats or step-ups onto a small step.  If this isn't doing the job then seek more help.

 
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on February 27, 2020, 09:00:47 am
Purely anecdotal, but I've had much less knee issues since i started running. No idea if it's caused by improved muscle strength, strengthened soft tissue, or just continuous movement, or pure luck.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Nibile on February 27, 2020, 02:14:46 pm
I've had a few knee injuries as of late.
Broken meniscus and broken cartilages (operated) and broken cruciatus ligament (not operated) in my left knee. Broken meniscus and broken cartilages (operated) and broken again meniscus (waiting for the operation) in my right knee.
Inner knee is often meniscus related, at least in my experience. Best thing is to have an MR scan; tests are fine but not 100% affordable: all ligament tests were negative for my left knee, and when the surgeon went in they found out that my cruciatus was completely disappeared. Like, not broken: shredded to thin filaments.
Now my left knee is kind of ok, let's hope my right one will heal properly also.

I have to say that also having both external ankle ligaments broken does not help knee health. A few weeks ago a simple farmer's walk with a heavier load fucked my knee properly for a good two weeks.
Despite this, yesterday I flashed 2xBW deadlift again after a lot of time without going heavy. Miracles.
Good luck!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on February 27, 2020, 11:04:10 pm
Thanks all.

Hi Duncan and Chris, seems like good advice. Think I failed to take due account of what the aging process means for a return after injury.

Nibs, I have a Lee Majors bionic man rebuild type image in my head there, that sounds hideous  :o  Impressed (inspired?) your enthusiasm remains undiminished. Good luck with the right knee!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on February 28, 2020, 09:10:39 am
From what Nibs is saying, looks like running is kinder to the knees than hard lifting!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Nibile on February 28, 2020, 12:29:17 pm
At all. Heavy lifting has always been fine. Problems started with heavy bouldering.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: kingholmesy on February 29, 2020, 09:32:40 am
My dad (mid 60s) has started to suffer with arthritis in his knees. The doc has told him to go cycling 4 times a week and apparently it is helping a lot.

At 38 mine are already feeling a bit creaky and I had an op for a meniscus tear in my 20s, so I’m sure I’ve got similar issues to look forward to as part of the joy of ageing.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: webbo on February 29, 2020, 10:09:27 am
My 60 plus year old knees have just started giving me a bit of grief. I think this is a result of no longer having a home board, so I have been jumping off a lot more at the wall and at the local quarry. However I think the main reason is I haven’t been getting out on my bike due to the whether and my turbo trainer is in storage.
You need to build those quads up.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: tomtom on February 29, 2020, 10:13:09 am
My 60 plus year old knees have just started giving me a bit of grief. I think this is a result of no longer having a home board, so I have been jumping off a lot more at the wall and at the local quarry. However I think the main reason is I haven’t been getting out on my bike due to the whether and my turbo trainer is in storage.
You need to build those quads up.

Been to the new wall in ‘ull Webbo? Or are you out of the area now? (I’ve forgotten)
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: webbo on February 29, 2020, 10:31:58 am
I haven’t been to the new wall in Dull as I have been in North Yorkshire for the last 2 and half years. However if things go as planned I will be moving back to near Beverley next week.
So I will probably using it till I get board back up.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: tomtom on February 29, 2020, 07:13:17 pm
I haven’t been to the new wall in Dull as I have been in North Yorkshire for the last 2 and half years. However if things go as planned I will be moving back to near Beverley next week.
So I will probably using it till I get board back up.

It’s really good. Owners are great and listen - nice bunch of punters too.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2020, 08:42:22 am
Apart from one or two bad eggs I've heard..
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 21, 2021, 05:22:13 pm
So I was wondering if anyone has meniscus issues. Both my knees are problematic/fucked, currently I'm seeing a surgeon next week about my left knee. I had an MRI and the diagnosis is 'horizontal longitudinal internal meniscal fissure'. I guess my question is has anyone had surgery or experience of this injury.

I'm also wondering if this sort of injury is going to be affecting more and more climbers, I'm 56 and a couple of decades of high rockovers, heel hooks and those moves where you rock over or pull into a hold on a twisted knee (do they have a name?) are having their toll. Seeing as most youngsters are doing this from a young age will they get affected earlier? When I started climbing a heel hook was very much something you hung from, not the active pulling which is now the norm.

Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2021, 05:43:14 pm
Assume no obvious event which my have caused onset?
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 21, 2021, 05:51:40 pm
Assume no obvious event which my have caused onset?

I'm sure its cumulative...first hurt it moving rocks, squatting down, about six years ago. After that it used to lock a little. Right knee is over zealous toe out heel in rockovers. Eventually last Sept the left knee exploded with pain on a relatively easy twisting move, giving me the worst nights pain I have ever had, emergency in the morning etc etc.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 21, 2021, 05:51:47 pm
So I was wondering if anyone has meniscus issues. Both my knees are problematic/fucked, currently I'm seeing a surgeon next week about my left knee. I had an MRI and the diagnosis is 'horizontal longitudinal internal meniscal fissure'. I guess my question is has anyone had surgery or experience of this injury.

I'm also wondering if this sort of injury is going to be affecting more and more climbers, I'm 56 and a couple of decades of high rockovers, heel hooks and those moves where you rock over or pull into a hold on a twisted knee (do they have a name?) are having their toll. Seeing as most youngsters are doing this from a young age will they get affected earlier? When I started climbing a heel hook was very much something you hung from, not the active pulling which is now the norm.

Right...

Around three years ago, I was kneeling down to work with a client doing floor exercises, when my knee “popped”.
Inside, right knee.
Very painful, ached like a bitch even when resting. It would lock or send shooting pain up the inside of my thigh etc etc etc.
Initial diagnosis was a torn MCL.
However, Toby D of this parish had a look, whilst we were climbing one day and felt it seemed more like a meniscus issue in it’s presentation.

Anyway, I put on a brace and ran the Fan Dance, with a 45lbs Bergan around six weeks after the first pop. This undoubtedly aggravated the living shit out of it.
But...
Using some pretty simple rehab exercises, from my physio and found on YouTube, it was resolved within 3 months. I introduced proper barbell squats and bench jumps into my weekly routine (building up as recovery progressed) and haven’t had any issues since.
I’m 50, for reference.
Oh and Farmers walks, with 2x22kg dumbells over benches, soft crash mats etc.
 https://www.instagram.com/p/BuwIqmUBja9/?igshid=15lba5eisui7a (https://www.instagram.com/p/BuwIqmUBja9/?igshid=15lba5eisui7a)
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Coops_13 on January 21, 2021, 06:34:49 pm
I think part of the issue is climbers generally avoid leg strengthening exercises. My lack of lateral meniscus in one knee has flared up recently (but fortunately I don't need my meniscal transplant just yet) but I've been doing a lot of physio around strengthening the legs and stretching. Apparently men generally have much weaker glutes than women and that can cause issues - I'm not back to weighted squats yet but things like single leg glute bridges are pretty tough!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 21, 2021, 06:50:05 pm
So I was wondering if anyone has meniscus issues. Both my knees are problematic/fucked, currently I'm seeing a surgeon next week about my left knee. I had an MRI and the diagnosis is 'horizontal longitudinal internal meniscal fissure'. I guess my question is has anyone had surgery or experience of this injury.

I'm also wondering if this sort of injury is going to be affecting more and more climbers, I'm 56 and a couple of decades of high rockovers, heel hooks and those moves where you rock over or pull into a hold on a twisted knee (do they have a name?) are having their toll. Seeing as most youngsters are doing this from a young age will they get affected earlier? When I started climbing a heel hook was very much something you hung from, not the active pulling which is now the norm.

Right...

Around three years ago, I was kneeling down to work with a client doing floor exercises, when my knee “popped”.
Inside, right knee.
Very painful, ached like a bitch even when resting. It would lock or send shooting pain up the inside of my thigh etc etc etc.
Initial diagnosis was a torn MCL.
However, Toby D of this parish had a look, whilst we were climbing one day and felt it seemed more like a meniscus issue in it’s presentation.

Anyway, I put on a brace and ran the Fan Dance, with a 45lbs Bergan around six weeks after the first pop. This undoubtedly aggravated the living shit out of it.
But...
Using some pretty simple rehab exercises, from my physio and found on YouTube, it was resolved within 3 months. I introduced proper barbell squats and bench jumps into my weekly routine (building up as recovery progressed) and haven’t had any issues since.
I’m 50, for reference.
Oh and Farmers walks, with 2x22kg dumbells over benches, soft crash mats etc.
 https://www.instagram.com/p/BuwIqmUBja9/?igshid=15lba5eisui7a (https://www.instagram.com/p/BuwIqmUBja9/?igshid=15lba5eisui7a)

I think I would normally favour a similar approach, obvs not getting involved with farmers and Bergans, whatever they are  ;) After three months getting my left knee more or less working, including lots of rehab, I went snowboarding which resulted in a very embarrassing enquiry from a skier who watched me drop of the top of a ridge and disappear after about 15 mins he popped his head over the ridge to see with my knee pressed into the ice for relief in agony...'do you need a rescue he asked?' I got back to the car after sledging down through deep powder on my arse. Basically its not recovered and as its new injuries on old I'm looking at surgery. Dave Mcleod seems to think surgery is a good option.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 21, 2021, 06:51:02 pm
I think part of the issue is climbers generally avoid leg strengthening exercises. My lack of lateral meniscus in one knee has flared up recently (but fortunately I don't need my meniscal transplant just yet) but I've been doing a lot of physio around strengthening the legs and stretching. Apparently men generally have much weaker glutes than women and that can cause issues - I'm not back to weighted squats yet but things like single leg glute bridges are pretty tough!

You're right, it's the fear of getting heavy legs.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on January 21, 2021, 07:18:25 pm
Sorry to hear that Andy, I have found running helps, but only uphill after being advised short  strides are better for knees. I park up in a dip near us and run up one hill, walk down, run up the other, walk back and repeat.  One set is about 0.5 mile- a few of these a week seems to help.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 21, 2021, 07:41:26 pm
Sorry to hear that Andy, I have found running helps, but only uphill after being advised short  strides are better for knees. I park up in a dip near us and run up one hill, walk down, run up the other, walk back and repeat.  One set is about 0.5 mile- a few of these a week seems to help.

Absolutely. One aspect that we definitely overlook is plyometric work.
I know I did.
I was also told, that in part, the lack of lower body/leg development didn’t just mean “strength”. It’s also to do with (relatively) poor circulation and where connective tissue is already poorly served in that department, a lack of development down there exacerbates the issue.

Plyo allowed that to be addressed, initially, without recourse to running.
(Though static rowing played a big part, too).
 I am convinced that adding plyo into my leg work, reduced, markedly, my susceptibility to both thigh and calf cramps, now.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Nibile on January 22, 2021, 09:19:29 am
I've had three knee operations since 2014, for cartilages and medial meniscus. I have broken cruciatus ligaments in both knees and a serious condropathy.
So, recovery forum meniscus operations is quick, just a few days on crutches then usual rehab, etc. No significant loss of muscle.
Recovery from cartilages is long, 30 days on crutches, long rehab, lots of rules, lost 4 kg of muscle.
I'm more or less fine now, but: no falls/jumps, no ski, no funky moves, no hard heelhooks (toes pointing out), no running, no cycling (not that I intended to).
I do gentle hill sprints, weights, very little jumps rarely.
Avoid plyo like the plague, we are not high jumpers...
Building muscle (as always) helps, along with building strength (NOT power).
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: duncan on January 22, 2021, 09:57:17 am
Andy, general advice not meant to supercede anything you get from a face-to-face consultation. Restart - or continue with -  the rehabilitation now. If you do opt for surgery, stronger legs will speed the recovery.

What to do exactly is harder to prescribe remotely. My view is somewhere between Matt and Nibile. You’re asking quite a lot from your knees if you’re snowboarding and bouldering outdoors. Both are dynamic (including ‘plyometric’) activities. If you aspire to continue snowboarding and falling from any height your rehab. needs to take this into account. If you’re happy doing what Nibs. does then you can follow his suggestions and focus on leg strength rather than power.

Start building quads. and hamstrings strength initially before you cautiously add dynamic work. Exercises should be weight bearing, or progress to weight-bearing soon.  Progress slowly. Expect set-backs. 


Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 22, 2021, 10:46:07 am
interesting replies, thanks everyone. I'm still doing the rehab suggested by the physio, both to aid recovery and as a pre-rehab, ie build some muscle before surgery if that is what indeed happens. I'm happy to hear meniscus surgery has a quick recovery time, but I think it also depends what part of the meniscus is damaged. I read that some parts, possibly the interior section which is where my left knee is injured, heals slowly or not at all, ie no blood supply.

I think the most worrying thing I read is that after surgery, osteoarthritis is a probability. So I'm wondering if the gamble is get more years fully active in the near future with compromises later or adapting and compromising now. Who knows!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Nibile on January 22, 2021, 11:47:05 am
With regards to plyo and power, I don't think they'll help climbing or bouldering at all.
Plyometrics involve reversing the eccentric effort into a concentric one in the shortest time possible. So a bouldering fall isn't plyometric, unless you bounce back onto the rock. Plyo puts the highest possible stress on a muscle-tendon structure, and that's why it's so effective in power building. It's also the most dangerous form of training.
But, do we really need legs' power in climbing? I don't think, unless we participate in those silly dyno comps. Power is strength+speed, I think in climbing we just need strength. I personally think that being able to perform a single leg squat is more than enough for climbing. Exploding upwars from the legs isn't that common, so there's no need to train speed.
There will always be a compromise.
The problem with general climbing and bouldering in particular is that, despite how strong a quad can be, the final strain will always be on the knee. And you can't specifically strengthen a knee, if you get what I mean.
When climbing, it's difficult to stop SHORT of an injury, that is, stopping before doing the move that COULD injury you. Trying the move could already be too much, because we try to succeed and not to fail.
That's the same with bouldering falls: we can't predict how a specific fall will be in detail, and a simple twist of the foot could be too much for an already damaged knee. Bear in mind that knees, if under excessive stress, tend to fold inside to look for a mechanic lock, and that's a problem with medial meniscus.
Of course the more muscle there's around a knee the better, but if you look closely at a knee, there's not much muscle really AROUND it, to stabilize a torsion.
Personally, I'd fix the meniscus (in fact I've done that when in need), because a broken meniscus it's both a pain in the knee and a pain in the ass.
Basically it's just  :devangel:
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on January 22, 2021, 12:15:56 pm
Ok...

I didn’t start by leaping onto high platforms, wearing a 70kg weight vest!*

Initially, I couldn’t run or walk long distances, without knocking everything back. Repetitive pounding had greater sequelae, for me, than strength and mobility training.
So, as I said, I started with the rowing machine, with the objective of improving circulation into my legs (amongst other things, such as rebuilding stamina/slow twitch etc). I also have frostbite damage that has to be controlled.
Plyo, allowed for some rebuilding of faster twitch stuff. I also MTB, hike, dive, swim and Yomp/Tab competitively. I would ski if I lived in France still, or could afford to take four kids skiing...
Anyway, I started by bunny hopping over a 30cm high soft beam, on soft mats.
Just as I started with body weight squats, progressed to a 10kg weight vest, before moving to the rack and barbell.
I built up over a year into those Farmers walks I linked to. That’s 36kg of weight vest and belt, with 44kg of sand filled jerry cans.
(Yes, it’s extreme, but it makes carrying a 45lbs Bergan** up a mountain, much easier).

* I still don’t, that would be silly. I only ever use the 20kg weight vest.


** Bergan = Rucksack, basically. Programmed in now, to me, and saves typing two whole letters each time!
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on January 22, 2021, 01:00:51 pm
With regards to plyo and power, I don't think they'll help climbing or bouldering at all.
Plyometrics involve reversing the eccentric effort into a concentric one in the shortest time possible. So a bouldering fall isn't plyometric, unless you bounce back onto the rock. Plyo puts the highest possible stress on a muscle-tendon structure, and that's why it's so effective in power building. It's also the most dangerous form of training.
But, do we really need legs' power in climbing? I don't think, unless we participate in those silly dyno comps. Power is strength+speed, I think in climbing we just need strength. I personally think that being able to perform a single leg squat is more than enough for climbing. Exploding upwars from the legs isn't that common, so there's no need to train speed.
There will always be a compromise.
The problem with general climbing and bouldering in particular is that, despite how strong a quad can be, the final strain will always be on the knee. And you can't specifically strengthen a knee, if you get what I mean.
When climbing, it's difficult to stop SHORT of an injury, that is, stopping before doing the move that COULD injury you. Trying the move could already be too much, because we try to succeed and not to fail.
That's the same with bouldering falls: we can't predict how a specific fall will be in detail, and a simple twist of the foot could be too much for an already damaged knee. Bear in mind that knees, if under excessive stress, tend to fold inside to look for a mechanic lock, and that's a problem with medial meniscus.
Of course the more muscle there's around a knee the better, but if you look closely at a knee, there's not much muscle really AROUND it, to stabilize a torsion.
Personally, I'd fix the meniscus (in fact I've done that when in need), because a broken meniscus it's both a pain in the knee and a pain in the ass.
Basically it's just  :devangel:

I think I agree with most of this. Dave Mcleod seems to also suggest that conventional rehab will only get you so far. He recommends climbing but with care.  Right now even waiting to see a surgeon I'm still going to go snowboarding in the next few days and climb on my board. With snowboarding as long as I don't do something unexpected I can cruise around with no problems at all, in fact getting down the hill on a board is easier than walking downhill. On my board as long as I'm doing hard projects that require fingers and core etc and not drop knees I'm fine. BUT I'm still doing one legged squats (not deep).
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on March 01, 2021, 05:42:12 pm
Update....lying in bed after a arthroscopic partial meniscectomy. A little bit dismaying when the surgeon informed he's removed two thirds of the meniscus. He thinks  four weeks and I should be active again, albeit with the ususal medical caveats etc. 

I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely so will do much much more leg/muscle/allignment work and probably eat lots of curry (tumeric).

 :)
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: andy popp on March 01, 2021, 05:50:52 pm
I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely

Doctor examining me on one of the numerous occasions I've broken an ankle: "You're going to get arthritis, of course."

Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Coops_13 on March 01, 2021, 06:34:09 pm
Update....lying in bed after a arthroscopic partial meniscectomy. A little bit dismaying when the surgeon informed he's removed two thirds of the meniscus. He thinks  four weeks and I should be active again, albeit with the ususal medical caveats etc. 

I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely so will do much much more leg/muscle/allignment work and probably eat lots of curry (tumeric).

 :)
Best of luck with the recovery Andy! Is it mostly lateral or medial? Medial apparently is much less necessary so can easily live without it. Definitely get on that muscle and alignment work. Apparently I am slightly bow-legged, which has massively helped reduce the wear in my lateral compartment (where I am missing meniscus) so I think a good alignment is key
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Oldmanmatt on March 01, 2021, 07:22:40 pm
I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely

Doctor examining me on one of the numerous occasions I've broken an ankle: "You're going to get arthritis, of course."

I thought I was done for when I got the arthritis diagnosis (big toe, Hallux Rigidus), five years ago, I was in constant pain etc etc etc.
I’ve just learned to manage it, really. Hardly any issues with it now. Ran a 10k  last Wednesday and a 6k + 200 mtrs ascent on steps/stairs and 100mtrs on fixed rope/scrambling up a cliff, with a 12kg bergan(behind Red Gate beach, if you know Ansteys) on Friday, for instance.
It’s pretty deformed now and the biggest issue are the bone growths rubbing on certain footwear. Simply ditching “”Trainers” or “Running shoes” in favour of Approach shoes and a good, stiff soled, trail shoe (essentially, stiff soles with plenty of rocker).

A knee will be more problematic, but you really might find the right brace etc. I did a 24k, with a 20kg bergan, over Pen-y-Fan and back, in just over 4 hrs, with a torn MCL and a good brace. Fair enough, I couldn’t do much except wince and look sheepish for the four days/week after, but it was doable.

I tried several different braces, until I found one that I could run in without crying like a baby, or, worse, being fine until I got 8/9k onto Dartmoor before gradually collapsing into a gibbering wreck, before cursing and swearing and limping back to the car, in a manner that would evoke pity from a Tourettes sufferer (obviously, once in sight of the car park or random passing strangers, I would seem perfectly fine and sprightly, if touched a little with the “wedding photo smile/rictus”).

Anyway, the up shot is, if it gets beyond control, the growths can be shaved/ground down, apparently. Which sounds nice, I shall look forward to that.
I’m told I have decades, yet, before I need to be overly concerned...
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on March 01, 2021, 10:59:26 pm
Well, based on my n=1, my knee issues have resolved themselves since I started running, especially up and down hills, and that strength gain has definitely improved my skiing, I can go longer without getting tired or stopping, technique less sloppy in soft snow, etc etc.

Agree about snowboard setup though, simple test is to strap in and crouch right down, if you can feel strain on inner or outer knee, adjust your stance accordingly.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Ged on March 02, 2021, 08:09:14 am
Update....lying in bed after a arthroscopic partial meniscectomy. A little bit dismaying when the surgeon informed he's removed two thirds of the meniscus. He thinks  four weeks and I should be active again, albeit with the ususal medical caveats etc. 

I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely so will do much much more leg/muscle/allignment work and probably eat lots of curry (tumeric).

 :)

Hi Andy,

If it's any reassurance to you,, I had this done a couple of years ago, and I'd describe my recover as complete. The only occasional tweak is when I kneel down. Otherwise I've done shit Loads of climbing with knee drops and knee bars, falling off high boulders (which hurts my back), long distance fell running etc.

Stuff that helped me. Obsessively do physio rehab exercises that were suggested post surgwry. Cycling really helped regain movement and strength. Thereafter, I got a lot better at glute and quad work.

I have no idea about skiing, but I dont see why most other sports won't be ok
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on March 02, 2021, 08:49:49 am
Update....lying in bed after a arthroscopic partial meniscectomy. A little bit dismaying when the surgeon informed he's removed two thirds of the meniscus. He thinks  four weeks and I should be active again, albeit with the ususal medical caveats etc. 

I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely so will do much much more leg/muscle/allignment work and probably eat lots of curry (tumeric).

 :)
Best of luck with the recovery Andy! Is it mostly lateral or medial? Medial apparently is much less necessary so can easily live without it. Definitely get on that muscle and alignment work. Apparently I am slightly bow-legged, which has massively helped reduce the wear in my lateral compartment (where I am missing meniscus) so I think a good alignment is key

Thanks Coops, I did some reading in medical papers about osteoarthritis likelihood and there was a study that found knee leg alignment as a big factor in outcome. So I agree that work on alignment and muscles must be a good thing. Good luck with your injury management.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on March 02, 2021, 08:56:55 am


I agree snowboarding at least with my moderate ambitions of cruising on soft off piste snow seems quite safe, this fits in well with walking uphill, currently snowshoeing, which gives a stable platform and base. I imagine uphill on a split board would be ok as well. Bouldering outside i think is ok if you choose problems wisely. My injury occurred on what felt like an innocuous twist on a sport climb, however I wasn't warmed up and a mild fear of being on a rope probably meant I hadn't listened or recognised signals that would have made me leave the move if I had of been bouldering.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: kelvin on March 02, 2021, 09:49:31 am


I think the most worrying thing I read is that after surgery, osteoarthritis is a probability. So I'm wondering if the gamble is get more years fully active in the near future with compromises later or adapting and compromising now. Who knows!

That's a choice only you can make but personally, I went for it after my third operation on the right knee. Two thirds of the lateral meniscus removed, most of the other removed in the previous ops and the photos showed arthritis riddled throughout the knee. Told not to skydive or fall off boulders or climbs. I'd not ran for 3½ years due to pain. That was in 2011.

In the next 10 months, I got fit, completed an adventure race and ran the Hadrian's Wall ultra in a day.
I've had an 8 months climbing trip in Europe, also climbed a lot in the Swiss Alps and my knees are not often a problem.

I did all my physio and more. Just get the legs as strong as you can. I had to correct my running style and that helped hugely but these days, I can no longer run. I can do hill sprints however, without pain.
Karate helped massively at the start and some yoga but I've stoppedboth now as I really want to save the knees for the hills.

In hindsight, I'll never regret running the ultra. The consultant told me five years until I'd need a knee replacement, that was in 2011 and here we are in 2021 and I reckon I've still got five more years.

Don't get despondent, learn what's good pain and bad pain and set some goals.

Oh, and boswellia extract is currently keeping the inflammation aware for me. Possibly worth a try.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: mrjonathanr on March 02, 2021, 10:30:46 am
I have had a fair few tendon problems recently, in elbows and biceps and listened to podcasts by Jill Cook and Karin Sibernagel and Pete Maliaris. They are at the leading edge of research into tendons -I would really recommend a listen. Most research focuses on Achilles and patellar tendinitis but there is relevance for upper body tendons too.

Searching their name+ tendons on thé podcast app and plenty comes up. Physio Edge, Squat University, Talking Tendons.. there’s loads.

To what extent this would help with arthritis, meniscus and so on I will leave to you, but a stronger knee has got to be a good protective factor.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2021, 03:51:16 pm
....twist knees and dislocate hips getting off chairlifts. You name it, I've seen it.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on March 02, 2021, 04:44:35 pm
Are you saying I can't make a perfect dismount ramp? :)

Issue was the lift I worked on was was only one of the 3 base lifts that wasn't a detachable, a bit intimidating for the first time, especially for novices, but tempting for them when the queue was always less than the others 
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: SA Chris on March 03, 2021, 12:02:31 am
:) I was out touring the other day, the last section was an uphill followed by a path through the woods, so I still had skins on and heels released. The final bit before the road was a narrow steepish section, where my mate opted to take off skis and walk down, but I opted for the guts or glory choice, managed to get to the bottom, tried to come to a stop and faceplanted in a heap of snow.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Andy W on March 03, 2021, 09:54:34 am
Update....lying in bed after a arthroscopic partial meniscectomy. A little bit dismaying when the surgeon informed he's removed two thirds of the meniscus. He thinks  four weeks and I should be active again, albeit with the ususal medical caveats etc. 

I've accepted that osteoarthritis is pretty likely so will do much much more leg/muscle/allignment work and probably eat lots of curry (tumeric).

 :)

Hi Andy,

If it's any reassurance to you,, I had this done a couple of years ago, and I'd describe my recover as complete. The only occasional tweak is when I kneel down. Otherwise I've done shit Loads of climbing with knee drops and knee bars, falling off high boulders (which hurts my back), long distance fell running etc.

Stuff that helped me. Obsessively do physio rehab exercises that were suggested post surgwry. Cycling really helped regain movement and strength. Thereafter, I got a lot better at glute and quad work.

I have no idea about skiing, but I dont see why most other sports won't be ok

Hi Ged, thanks for the encouraging reply. How much meniscus did you have removed? I must admit I was a bit dismayed when the surgeon told me 2/3rds had been removed. Encouragingly I can walk without any pain already.
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: sheavi on March 03, 2021, 11:38:45 am
I had 50% removed in 2010.  Was back climbing in 4 weeks.  Not really had any issues since, no pain full movement and strength.  I'm just cautious w/ certain high rock-overs now. Osteoarthritis is a risk factor but will be multifactorial if it does happen and not a given. 
Title: Re: Knees, knees, knees.
Post by: Davo on March 08, 2021, 05:28:14 pm
You may find this podcast about osteoarthritis helpful / interesting. Describes well how compressive load is thought to help with regeneration of cartilage and that shear forces should be avoided (mainly through strengthening of the leg muscles).

https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/the-physio-matters-podcast/id785762010?i=1000511907520
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